We use Digitrax systems for our modular ON30 layout - what I did with the connections to that modular connector for each command station and booster was to connect a terminal block via short wires to each screw terminal on the connector, fasten that terminal block securely to the baseboard (with the command station or booster), and from that terminal block, run the power supply leads and track power leads from that. That way, there was far less mechanical stress on the small and fiddly screw terminals of the modular connector.
Thank you so much! I Expect to switch soon from Lenz to Digitrax, with the EVOXD wireless system, but I've never seen such a straightforward, concise tutorial on how to set it all up. Thank You.
As usual, a very informative guide and as someone who is just about to invest in Digitrax here in the UK, very helpful. Many thanks for taking the time to film, edit & upload my friend
Hi Larry, thanks for all the video lessons. I’m new to HO and purchased the Digitrax EVOX Evolution Express Advanced 5A/8A Starter Set. This set comes with the UP-7 panel and has the barrel plug like you showed. My layout is 5’ x 20’. I’m hoping/planning on the the DCS 210+ being wired up on a shelf underneath the layout, with just the UP-7 on the facia. If I’m only using just the one UP-7, Does the still UP-7 require a power supply? Or will the locoNet cable provide power for it? Thanks for all your help! You’ve made a lot of things much easier!
Given that you can only have 2 throttles plugged in then they aren’t likely to overload it. If you later decider to add more then it is easy enough to add a power supply.
On the UP5 panel I pushed the LED track status light out of the way and installed a green LED connected to the two rear screws. The green LED is ,much brighter and can be seen from across the room. I bought my Digitrax DCS100 back in 1998. At the time I bought it at 40% off and I think this is how Digitrax became so popular. Although, their decoders could be improved since they are sometimes powerless while other brands seem to get the job done. Glad you made this video.
Yes, back then Digitrax had a offer where if a club converted to Digitrax DCC they would sell it and its members everything they wanted at dealer cost. That resulted in Digitrax selling a lot of equipment and building a customer base. From then on the club members would buy more Digitrax products and new members would also buy it, at the regular price. It was a very forward thinking strategy which quickly made them the dominant DCC company. My club in N. Va. bought so much it took Digitrax 6 months to fill the entire order.
Thanks for your dedication to this great hobby. You provide us with information in a way that I can understand. This video is another example of this and clears up alot. I've been spending alot of time going through your youtube videos. You are a wealth of valuable information. Thanks again.
Wow, I’ve had a Digitrax DCS100 for 20+ years now and didn’t know about wiring UP5 panels up! Learned something new, thx. Is it better to add another booster like a DB150 or go with a PSX to break the layout into power districts?
I prefer to use the PSX or PSXX to manage power distribution. I would recommend it even if you do buy a booster. The new PSXX circuits allow you to actually limit the maximum current that can hit the rails (and your decoders) when a short occurs.
Thank you Larry, that was another thorough tutorial on Digitrax command stations and boosters. 2 questions; first will a 12 gauge wire fit into the adapter? Second, if I have the command station in the middle and I want a booster on each end, which ports do I use to go from the command station to the boosters on the left and right of the command station? Thank you.
Doesn’t matter as long as you can get the Loconet cable to them and run the ground. I have a 3 way splitter I got years ago that has one male and 2 female sockets for splitting the Loconet. You might be able to find one at a specialty electronics store. Most are wired opposite what Loconet cables are but they also make the reversing kind but are hard to find. If you get the wrong one try reversing the wires on the RJ12 connector to compensate. The good thing about the new command stations is they have 3 sockets now instead of just 2. As for the wire I said in the video to use a short section that fits the terminal and splice it to the larger 12 ga wire.
Great video! You explained everything very well. One question please; I bought a Kato starter set & it runs as a DC set. Is there anyway to add a DC power pack to a Digitrax system to be used to add power, as a booster? Thanks!
Would one also need to hook up the red & black rail power wires, between the track and to the db 150's? That being in addition to the connections you've stated, to connect the ground and loconet. Such connection "repeating" the loconet instructions directly to the rail near where the booster is. Or, does the db150's simply provide additional amperes (track bus) and addresses (loconet) to the dcs 210? I ask thinking booster stations don't just adjust for power factor correction & rectification of dcc command signals, but also tend to "clean up" (scrub) the power line communications (plc). Would I need less "scrubbers" on my track (& accessory??) -bus, but adding a db 150 (booster)?
As I said in the video you need to make the same power in and power out wire connections on the DB150 (or other boosters) as I showed on the DCS210. I also said I didn’t include those because the wiring was cluttered enough already.
Hi Larry, I have the Digitrax DB150 and mine is only rated for 5 amps. Are the ones you showed is for the 8 amps? Sad about All Electronics. It was a great place to buy.
Hey Larry - I have an important question related to dcc- asking here because I really don't know what to do. I just purchased a Broadway limited n scale locomotive with the intentions of selling it later on. The locomotive worked at first, then the dcc function broke, meaning the loco only ran in dc (and only in forward) Then, the locomotive made a large snapping noise and the speaker went from normal to a cracking noise- the dcc functions fine now but the sound and dc function is gone. Please help!!!
I’d say the cracking noise was the speaker being overpowered by the decoder and failing. Hopefully this loco is still under warranty as it will need to go back to BLI probably for a replacement decoder.
The problem with many sound equipped N-scale locos is the decoder and speaker are often designed to fit a molded slot in the chassis so finding suitable replacement other than those from BLI may present a problem. If you run into issues check with Bryan at Streamlined Backshop (www.sbs4dcc.com) as he specializes in N-scale installs. Also the tech support guys at Soundtraxx may be some help selecting one of theirs as a replacement.
Larry, would a shared Digitrax PS2012 power supply eliminate the need for a shared ground? The RJ12 6 pin connectors and wire are available on Amazon. I think I even saw the RJ12 parts at Home Depot at one time?
yes you are right there any larger city you google electrical stores you come up with a lot of places to buy the supply at to most of the are open for you to buy from
Thank you for this video, you talk about Digitrax, and NEC, what I would like to know is can you use other makes of control cards like the block detection cards with Digitrax.
DCC is an NMRA standard and as such most equipment made by one manufacturer will work with other brands. For example I use both NCE and DCC Concepts block occupancy detection “cards” with my Digitrax system. However, there are some exceptions such as some Digitrax products that are designed to use their Loconet communication system to report block occupancy back to the command station. But even with those they can be configured to operate with other brands of DCC systems. Before you buy something download and read the instructions first and make sure the product can do what you want it to do.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you for your reply, I was asking as the PM42 has been discontinued and replaced with MP74 which is 30 pounds more so trying to find an other make that would do the job.
I have a couple old PM42’s but use the DCC Specialties PSX and PSXX boards instead. The basic board does not do autoreversing but their PSXX-AR version does. I have done several videos on these.
Oh my, All Electronics going out of business. I have been using them for more years than I care to remember. Do you have any recommendations for a like store?
I have a double oval with a single crossover on the outside loop divided in 4 districts. DCS210+ is d1, DB150(booster) is d2 as inner oval. The outer oval is DCS100(booster) is d3, DB150(booster) is d4. The DCS210+ I used its own 5A power supply, the boosters I used PS2012E power supply. Can anyone tell me why the DCS210+, d1 was out of phase and once I reversed the wires then it became in phased?
Check the Rail A and Rail B connections on the face of the units and make sure none of your wires are reversed. Also make sure your Loconet cables are not made up with one backwards, remember white should be on the right side of the connector. If these are not correct it will reverse the polarity of the output down the line. I did 2 videos a couple of years ago on making up DCC cables, #38 & 39. Finally I assume you set the other units besides the DCS210+ up as boosters and not command stations?
Can i ask a question. I'm having a problem at the moment , haven't had time to diognose, so here's question. If it's my DCS100 and I replace it with a DCS 210 , will my dt400 work on it? And if it's the DT400 and I replace with a DT602d do I need an up 93 got it to work?
The DT400 will work fine, I have 2 I use with my DCS240. As I said in the video all Digitrax throttles are forwardly compatible. I still use my 30 year old DT100s. The DT602D will need the duplex transceiver to work wirelessly. However you can also plug it in as I showed and use it as a wired throttle in the meantime.
@@TheDCCGuyHi Larry. I’ve been experiencing signal issues between my new DT602DE (Europe) and the UR92CE I’ve had for a couple of years. After various conversations in the Digitrax user group it seems the new Duplex throttle is much happier interfacing with a new UR93CE even though -as you say- all Digitrax products are back engineered. I was presuming I’d optimise the Duplex signal by combining the UR92 & UR93 together (I have an O scale garden layout) but it seems the two may not ‘play nicely’ together. Is this something you’ve encountered at all from any of your various contacts in the hobby?
Not really, unless you can get by with just a single command station and internal booster but you still need a way to connect throttles so it is just the price of model railroading. Nothing is cheap anymore.
@@TheDCCGuy I still dont know what all this stuff is for? Id like to use two locos max for my home track. Why do I need DCC and invest hundreds of additional dollars?
Why you change it from Positive(+) and Negative(-) to A and B and we talk about polarity? They really want overenginering useless concept? just use + or - .
@@TheDCCGuy i dont expect it. and how complete the circuit? and got short on electrofrog turnouts? Is this just in Digitrax? You know if ESU has the same?
Maybe if you look at the wire differently: A & B are both network data and voltage, ground is the third wire. All power AND control are carried just on the A and B wires. The ground is only to make sure that any connected boosters and devices have a common reference point for the data signal. This is how ALL DCC systems work, the power on the rails is AC with data superimposed on the voltage so +and - are not valid.
Funny, my experience with folk that badmouth any system have usually never bothered to read the manual. The standard was created years ago and all companies know how to build reliable gear, and yes, they DO want you to have a positive experience.
We use Digitrax systems for our modular ON30 layout - what I did with the connections to that modular connector for each command station and booster was to connect a terminal block via short wires to each screw terminal on the connector, fasten that terminal block securely to the baseboard (with the command station or booster), and from that terminal block, run the power supply leads and track power leads from that. That way, there was far less mechanical stress on the small and fiddly screw terminals of the modular connector.
Great tip!
Thank you for sharing. I learn something new every time you post a video on DCC wiring. Appreciate your time.👍
Thank you so much! I Expect to switch soon from Lenz to Digitrax, with the EVOXD wireless system, but I've never seen such a straightforward, concise tutorial on how to set it all up. Thank You.
Glad I could help!
Thanks Larry once again,🎩🎩off to you and all you do for the industry
As usual, a very informative guide and as someone who is just about to invest in Digitrax here in the UK, very helpful. Many thanks for taking the time to film, edit & upload my friend
Hi Larry, thanks for all the video lessons. I’m new to HO and purchased the Digitrax EVOX Evolution Express Advanced 5A/8A Starter Set. This set comes with the UP-7 panel and has the barrel plug like you showed. My layout is 5’ x 20’. I’m hoping/planning on the the DCS 210+ being wired up on a shelf underneath the layout, with just the UP-7 on the facia. If I’m only using just the one UP-7, Does the still UP-7 require a power supply? Or will the locoNet cable provide power for it? Thanks for all your help! You’ve made a lot of things much easier!
Given that you can only have 2 throttles plugged in then they aren’t likely to overload it. If you later decider to add more then it is easy enough to add a power supply.
On the UP5 panel I pushed the LED track status light out of the way and installed a green LED connected to the two rear screws. The green LED is ,much brighter and can be seen from across the room. I bought my Digitrax DCS100 back in 1998. At the time I bought it at 40% off and I think this is how Digitrax became so popular. Although, their decoders could be improved since they are sometimes powerless while other brands seem to get the job done. Glad you made this video.
Yes, back then Digitrax had a offer where if a club converted to Digitrax DCC they would sell it and its members everything they wanted at dealer cost. That resulted in Digitrax selling a lot of equipment and building a customer base. From then on the club members would buy more Digitrax products and new members would also buy it, at the regular price. It was a very forward thinking strategy which quickly made them the dominant DCC company. My club in N. Va. bought so much it took Digitrax 6 months to fill the entire order.
Thanks for your dedication to this great hobby. You provide us with information in a way that I can understand. This video is another example of this and clears up alot. I've been spending alot of time going through your youtube videos. You are a wealth of valuable information.
Thanks again.
Thanks Larry, that was very helpful! I appreciate your suggestions and comments on the Digitraz system.
Thanks Larry absolutely the tops, this really helps Folks coming into DCC. Keep safe.
great video. before today I thought that DCC was NASA technology. after watching your excellent video i now understand it a lot better.
Wow, I’ve had a Digitrax DCS100 for 20+ years now and didn’t know about wiring UP5 panels up! Learned something new, thx. Is it better to add another booster like a DB150 or go with a PSX to break the layout into power districts?
I prefer to use the PSX or PSXX to manage power distribution. I would recommend it even if you do buy a booster. The new PSXX circuits allow you to actually limit the maximum current that can hit the rails (and your decoders) when a short occurs.
Brilliant video for me Larry, I’m laying track for my layout now and will soon be setting up my Digitrax EVOXD system which should be fun. 👍🏻
GREAT and easy to understand info ... thanks.
Thank you Larry, that was another thorough tutorial on Digitrax command stations and boosters. 2 questions; first will a 12 gauge wire fit into the adapter? Second, if I have the command station in the middle and I want a booster on each end, which ports do I use to go from the command station to the boosters on the left and right of the command station? Thank you.
Doesn’t matter as long as you can get the Loconet cable to them and run the ground. I have a 3 way splitter I got years ago that has one male and 2 female sockets for splitting the Loconet. You might be able to find one at a specialty electronics store. Most are wired opposite what Loconet cables are but they also make the reversing kind but are hard to find. If you get the wrong one try reversing the wires on the RJ12 connector to compensate. The good thing about the new command stations is they have 3 sockets now instead of just 2. As for the wire I said in the video to use a short section that fits the terminal and splice it to the larger 12 ga wire.
Great video! You explained everything very well.
One question please; I bought a Kato starter set & it runs as a DC set. Is there anyway to add a DC power pack to a Digitrax system to be used to add power, as a booster? Thanks!
No, has to be DCC equipment.
@@TheDCCGuy thank you
Would one also need to hook up the red & black rail power wires, between the track and to the db 150's?
That being in addition to the connections you've stated, to connect the ground and loconet. Such connection "repeating" the loconet instructions directly to the rail near where the booster is.
Or, does the db150's simply provide additional amperes (track bus) and addresses (loconet) to the dcs 210?
I ask thinking booster stations don't just adjust for power factor correction & rectification of dcc command signals, but also tend to "clean up" (scrub) the power line communications (plc). Would I need less "scrubbers" on my track (& accessory??) -bus, but adding a db 150 (booster)?
As I said in the video you need to make the same power in and power out wire connections on the DB150 (or other boosters) as I showed on the DCS210. I also said I didn’t include those because the wiring was cluttered enough already.
@@TheDCCGuy my bad. Thanks for helping me to get past me today. ✌️🍻
Hi Larry, I have the Digitrax DB150 and mine is only rated for 5 amps. Are the ones you showed is for the 8 amps? Sad about All Electronics. It was a great place to buy.
No, all DB150 are 5 amps, only the DCS210 that I showed was 5/8 amps. But you can mix them, you just need to equalize the track voltage output.
Thanks Larry awesome video learned a lot great explanation
Can a DC100 be configured to be a booster?
Yes.
Hey Larry - I have an important question related to dcc- asking here because I really don't know what to do. I just purchased a Broadway limited n scale locomotive with the intentions of selling it later on. The locomotive worked at first, then the dcc function broke, meaning the loco only ran in dc (and only in forward) Then, the locomotive made a large snapping noise and the speaker went from normal to a cracking noise- the dcc functions fine now but the sound and dc function is gone. Please help!!!
I’d say the cracking noise was the speaker being overpowered by the decoder and failing. Hopefully this loco is still under warranty as it will need to go back to BLI probably for a replacement decoder.
@@TheDCCGuy I bought it used for 80 bucks I would probably be okay with replacing the decoder since the warranty is out
The problem with many sound equipped N-scale locos is the decoder and speaker are often designed to fit a molded slot in the chassis so finding suitable replacement other than those from BLI may present a problem. If you run into issues check with Bryan at Streamlined Backshop (www.sbs4dcc.com) as he specializes in N-scale installs. Also the tech support guys at Soundtraxx may be some help selecting one of theirs as a replacement.
Larry, would a shared Digitrax PS2012 power supply eliminate the need for a shared ground? The RJ12 6 pin connectors and wire are available on Amazon. I think I even saw the RJ12 parts at Home Depot at one time?
yes you are right there any larger city you google electrical stores you come up with a lot of places to buy the supply at to most of the are open for you to buy from
Now that was very informative, thank you
Thank you for this video, you talk about Digitrax, and NEC, what I would like to know is can you use other makes of control cards like the block detection cards with Digitrax.
DCC is an NMRA standard and as such most equipment made by one manufacturer will work with other brands. For example I use both NCE and DCC Concepts block occupancy detection “cards” with my Digitrax system. However, there are some exceptions such as some Digitrax products that are designed to use their Loconet communication system to report block occupancy back to the command station. But even with those they can be configured to operate with other brands of DCC systems. Before you buy something download and read the instructions first and make sure the product can do what you want it to do.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you for your reply, I was asking as the PM42 has been discontinued and replaced with MP74 which is 30 pounds more so trying to find an other make that would do the job.
I have a couple old PM42’s but use the DCC Specialties PSX and PSXX boards instead. The basic board does not do autoreversing but their PSXX-AR version does. I have done several videos on these.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you again, I will look for them in your video list.
Thanks for doing this, it helps
Oh my, All Electronics going out of business. I have been using them for more years than I care to remember. Do you have any recommendations for a like store?
I probably will shift to Jameco as they are more hobbyist oriented than Digikey or Mouser. If you find another good one let me know.
Another option might be Parts Express
What are the plugs on the back of booster for
Which booster? I must 6 of them of varying age and none have plugs or sockets on the back, just a freaking big heatsink.
I have a double oval with a single crossover on the outside loop divided in 4 districts. DCS210+ is d1, DB150(booster) is d2 as inner oval. The outer oval is DCS100(booster) is d3, DB150(booster) is d4. The DCS210+ I used its own 5A power supply, the boosters I used PS2012E power supply. Can anyone tell me why the DCS210+, d1 was out of phase and once I reversed the wires then it became in phased?
Check the Rail A and Rail B connections on the face of the units and make sure none of your wires are reversed. Also make sure your Loconet cables are not made up with one backwards, remember white should be on the right side of the connector. If these are not correct it will reverse the polarity of the output down the line. I did 2 videos a couple of years ago on making up DCC cables, #38 & 39. Finally I assume you set the other units besides the DCS210+ up as boosters and not command stations?
hello larry it's is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks friends randy
Can i ask a question. I'm having a problem at the moment , haven't had time to diognose, so here's question. If it's my DCS100 and I replace it with a DCS 210 , will my dt400 work on it? And if it's the DT400 and I replace with a DT602d do I need an up 93 got it to work?
The DT400 will work fine, I have 2 I use with my DCS240. As I said in the video all Digitrax throttles are forwardly compatible. I still use my 30 year old DT100s. The DT602D will need the duplex transceiver to work wirelessly. However you can also plug it in as I showed and use it as a wired throttle in the meantime.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you. Takes a load off my mind.
@@TheDCCGuyHi Larry. I’ve been experiencing signal issues between my new DT602DE (Europe) and the UR92CE I’ve had for a couple of years.
After various conversations in the Digitrax user group it seems the new Duplex throttle is much happier interfacing with a new UR93CE even though -as you say- all Digitrax products are back engineered. I was presuming I’d optimise the Duplex signal by combining the UR92 & UR93 together (I have an O scale garden layout) but it seems the two may not ‘play nicely’ together. Is this something you’ve encountered at all from any of your various contacts in the hobby?
no one talks about MRC should I get rid of it and go with digitrax???
If it works for you that’s fine.
Great info but this looks very complicated and expensive. Is there something easier and less expensive?
Not really, unless you can get by with just a single command station and internal booster but you still need a way to connect throttles so it is just the price of model railroading. Nothing is cheap anymore.
@@TheDCCGuy I still dont know what all this stuff is for? Id like to use two locos max for my home track. Why do I need DCC and invest hundreds of additional dollars?
Far to complex for me. Unfortunatly, this is the hurdle that stops me building a train set
Hi
That stinks that ALL Electronics is closing its doors. I've bought lots of electrical things for my layout from them.
Why you change it from Positive(+) and Negative(-) to A and B and we talk about polarity? They really want overenginering useless concept? just use + or - .
7:25 I see Ground, rail A and Rail B. That make me think ok Ground go to one rail and A and B to other rail. Is sequncial numeration A and B.
There is no positive and negative. Power alternates on and off between Rail A and Rail B.
@@TheDCCGuy i dont expect it. and how complete the circuit? and got short on electrofrog turnouts? Is this just in Digitrax? You know if ESU has the same?
Maybe if you look at the wire differently: A & B are both network data and voltage, ground is the third wire. All power AND control are carried just on the A and B wires. The ground is only to make sure that any connected boosters and devices have a common reference point for the data signal. This is how ALL DCC systems work, the power on the rails is AC with data superimposed on the voltage so +and - are not valid.
Friends don't let friends buy Digitrax. You'll be paying them forever.
I have Digitrax and it is a great system, not sure what you are talking about?
Mine is over 23 yrs old with no issues
Funny, my experience with folk that badmouth any system have usually never bothered to read the manual. The standard was created years ago and all companies know how to build reliable gear, and yes, they DO want you to have a positive experience.