Make your own Greenland paddle time lapse DIY
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2016
- Time lapse video of making a Greenland style paddle. This shows the entire process start to finish. 5 hours condensed into 20 minutes . You can see the 10 minute version on my Greenland Kayak blog... skinonframe.wordpress.com/ For details of the layout download Chuck Holst plans- www.thewoodshop.20m.com/graphi...
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Never seen a paddle made so fast.
Beautiful work !!
I just made one of these paddles. One sure way to save time is to make a thin plastic or thin wooden pattern to redraw the lines since they keep getting tooled or sanded off during its making. After watching your video I see I have more shaping to do at the yoke.
I would do that but every paddle I make is custom fit to a person so each one is a different size.
We could benefit from seeing some stop-action of the paddle in side view, which would give us an idea of the cross-section of the blade, and the loom for that matter. You did a lot of measuring and marking and it would be interesting to see how that translates into a shape.
It looks like you went with a very flat/thinnish blade?
I'll see what i can come up with. The measuring and marking does seems tedious but it allows you to make both ends of the paddle perfectly symmetrical without any ability or practice . Just follow the plans. Also you don't even have to sand and finish it. That just makes it look better.
Nice job.....
Beautiful!!! Really!
I have made myself a paddle also, but I used a different recipie. This «west greenland paddle» you are making looks a bit heavier, with a smoother transition from the loom and a little less sharp diamond shape in the grip area than mine do.
I want to try this model you are showing also, I have downloaded the pdf instructions.
How much does your paddles usally end up weighing?
Will you say this is the best (or among the best) style of greenland paddle?
Also, the blade does seem a bit round and thick? Would it be beneficial to make it a bit thinner an flatter? Or is the way you make it a better solution?
Thanks for the video, thumbs up!
Thanks, sometimes I think I put too much time into the finish but I custom make these for people and I like them to look good. The transition is up to the buyer and this one is a long smooth oval. I use this style myself and I like the way it slides through your hands while maneuvering it underwater while rolling. It also will cause less blistering on a long trip. This paddle was around 84 cm and 900 grams I think. They could be made a lot thinner but there is a trade-off in strength, I've seen them break and after paying $300 for a paddle you don't want that too happen.
I also prefer the "sharper" transition", from the loom its a smooth tangent, but sharper where it meets the blade. This causes water to drip off at that point before reaching my hands while remaining comfortable to slide back and forth. Of course its individual preference, but reducing the water that gets to my hands allow me to kayak pretty much most of the winter bare handed. Thanks for sharing the video btw!
Are all the oil finishes tung nut oil - or a blend with other oils? I’m about to start on my first Greenland paddle. I don’t have any of the electric tools so it’ll all be done by hand tools - so probably a bit longer to build .. what do you think about epoxy tips? I’m in two minds.
Yes, just Minwax Tung oil, 4 or 5 coats should do it if you have a good smooth paddle to begin with. I sand down to about 320 then wet the paddle and sand it again after it dries. It will be a little sticky the first couple of times your out paddling but that will go away and leave a nice hard finish. Personally, I don't use tips. I just sand them down when they get messed up.
Where do you source your wood? It is getting harder and harder to find any wood at big name lumber yards that aren't sawn cores. I just hit Homedepot, Slegg Lumber, and Lowes, and spent about an hour each searching for a decent 2x4 to 2x12, or 4x4, that wasn't a core or bad grain. And I live where this lumber is harvested and cut. :(
I've never been able to find good Cedar in the big box stores either, I get mine at a small specialty lumber place in Oshawa called Peacock Lumber. Not cheap but really good quality and selection. There's also a good place in Ottawa called The WoodSource.
@DennyFilms Eh are you on the island too? I am in Shawnigan. I spotted the Slegg Lumber and thought so. Lotsa mill guys around here to get cedar from.
Have you made any paddles yet? I want to get building a few.
Be cool to connest and chat.
Cheers eh!
-Shiny
25o 51o RODS (7637)
Excuse me, what wood do you use for the oar?
This one is Western Red Cedar and I try to get the straightest grain possible. I have also made them from Pine or Spruce but they are not as light or water resistant.
I’m finding it v difficult to locate knot-free anything in UK. Spruce, WR Cedar, whatever the recommended timber, I can’t source it.
Thanks for your video. I use a hand plane more than the spokeshave, but other than that, the procedure is the same. Looks like you put many coats of tung oil on. What kind of wood did you use?
Mostly quarter sawn Red Cedar and about 5 coats of tung. After using the paddle it usually needs another coat and then a recoat after every season. I wish I could use a plane for more of the shaping but many of the surfaces have compound shapes and I find the spokeshave follows the curve better.
Do you started from only 1 piece wood? Ty
Yes, usually 2x4 of clear red cedar