Grafting your fruit trees in the spring and leaving your grafts grow unchecked is not an efficient use of your tree energy resources. Start pruning your grafts early, to form the tree quickly and to keep in check the vigorous growth of some varieties. Leave a COMMENT, if you like the video or if you have any questions, and I will try to answer as many as I can. Table of contents 00:00 - Intro 1. Reasons to summer prune a grafted tree - 0:55 2. Pruning grafts - Basic Principles - 2:20 2a. Remove lower branches - 2:44 2b. Remove crossing branches - 3:04 2c. Thinning branches - 3:32 2d. Heading branches- 5:27 2e. Pruning results - 6:04 3. Managing vigor in different grafts - 6:18 4. Managing grafts done at a later date - 7:23 Check my grafting and pruning videos, to know more about the grafting and pruning techniques used: Best Grafting Techniques | WHICH Grafting Technique should I CHOOSE, when grafting fruit trees? - ua-cam.com/video/tFWvZzMv2Io/v-deo.html Basic Pruning Techniques - ua-cam.com/video/buziSuLiUhY/v-deo.html Cleft Graft and Modified Cleft Graft - When and how to use each of these grafting techniques - ua-cam.com/video/JjNYr_O5NzQ/v-deo.html Grafting Fruit Trees | Changing varieties in old Pear Trees | Bark Grafting - ua-cam.com/video/b-iyXqG10YU/v-deo.html
Just want to say thankyou for the tutorials and education you've given us all.....I've watched so many videos and different approaches to grafting and technique....and always back watching yours.inwhich now I only watch...cheers mate your an awsome teacher
Another great teaching video, thank you for the awesome content. I learned the hard way about pruning vigorous growth on a graft. We had a large wind event a couple weeks ago and I had a newly grafted elephant heart plum break off right at the graft union. It just got too big for the graft to support it in that wind. The bright side was that I was able to cut a scion out of the green wood that had more developed buds on it and graft it back to the rootstock. I covered it with foil like you have shown so many times and to my surprise this morning I opened the foil and it had a bunch of new leaves growing out of the scion! I was very excited to see I was able to save that variety. I went ahead and pruned all my other overly vigorous grafts after that to avoid the same problem again.
Hi, Jared. Thanks for the comment. We all have learned the hard way the importance of pruning the vigorous growth of a young graft. I also have saved a few varieties, grafting them immediately after they broke. If you protect the grafts well, you can graft in late spring and throughout the summer. I am glad you saved the variety.
JSacadura thank you. I am glad also. I was so excited about having elephant heart added to my collection and so sad to see it broken off that day. Hopefully the new graft is as vigorous as the original.
Fantastic advice as usual. I followed your original video and bark grafted some apple scions onto the stump of a limb of an old apple tree last winter. The limb came down in a storm last year. I am pleased to see that the scions grafted successfully and a I now have a number of choices to make. I watched this video with obvious interest but although my new growth is around 0.5 of a meter long now they are still green, although very strong and fibrous rather than brown and woody like yours. 1) Should I prune now regardless or wait till the growth turns brown and woody? 2)Should I prune the growth just above a leaf that is pointing in the direction of where I want the new branches to grow? Thank You
Before this video, I had already done a first pruning, a couple of months ago, when the branches were still green. If I hadn't done that, there would be even more new branches, dividing resources in the new grafts. So, you can prune now, if you want. Second question - if the grafts are well established you can prune were you want the new branches to grow. if they are still young grafts, I let them grow a bit more and use most of the branch to produce energy, before pruning at the desired spot (I usually only do that, the following year).
Viva. Mais um ótimo vídeo. Quantos tratamentos e que faz em média as Pereiras/macieiras por ano? Quais são os mais importantes? Estão com óptimo aspecto. De que zona é que é? Obrigado.
Olá, Carlos. Em primeiro lugar, peço desculpa pela resposta tardia. Este último mês foi de loucos e não me foi possível dar atenção ao canal (estou agora a rever os comentários). Sou da zona de Óbidos e na minha zona (muito húmida), são necessários pelo menos 2-3 tratamentos contra fungos e insetos para se conseguir armazenar alguma fruta, sem estar bichada ou com pedrado. Este ano, por questõs várias, só fiz o tratamento de inverno e já dá para ver que não vou conseguir armazenar nenhuma fruta. Mas sempre dá para o consumo imediato. Obrigado pelo comentário.
Excellent video. I have lots of satsumas oranges need attention so im going to work them today! Thanks for your time and teaching.wish i was there with you helping you and takeing in the beautiful scenery beautiful beard it makes you look like a sexy greek god!
I rarely use bud grafting in apple. Only when I receive a single scion of a precious variety with only 3-4 buds. Then I use bud grafting to produce 3-4 new grafted trees. It works quite well, even using the chip grafting technique that I show in this video, used on other fruit types - ua-cam.com/video/3lssseaG_Tg/v-deo.html
Hi there. Great video as usual. Please tell me in thicker branches where 2 or 3 grafts are done , should one graft be allowed to grow and if yes then when should other be removed?
Sorry for the late reply. When doing bark grafts and placing more than one scion, I usually cut all the other grafted branches after a few months since the graft is done, leaving only the definitive one. Nevertheless, if none of them is clearly more vigorous, or if you have any doubts, you can do it in the following season, just to be on the safe side (as a backup for potential breakage from winds or other problems, with important varieties)
In some of the background fields because its being left uncultivated for one year (an agricultural cultural practice know as fallow ground or fallowing that helps regenerate the soil nutrients). Between the rows of trees is just because the mechanical weed removal process had a bigger interval than usual (I prefer to avoid the use of herbicides if I can avoid it).
Sorry to hear that, John. I have to say that I wouldn't recommend bark grafting with loquat. As an evergreen, its very delicate concerning the removal of all the green growth in a main branch. usually, it removes all the sap from that branch and the grafts will dry out. Try whip and tongue (or modified cleft graft) on smaller diameter branches as I show on my video on grafting loquats - ua-cam.com/video/sT_mEAPRn60/v-deo.html. You can also try Lateral bark grafting (it also works, although its a bit more difficult to execute in loquats).
We have four apple trees that were pruned last fall. They were heavily pruned as they were getting too tall. Do you think further summer pruning is advisable to shape the trees even better?
Hi, Carlos. I only prune adult apple trees when there is a real need for that (removing vigorous vertical growth that is shading fruits, heading branches that will break with the weight, etc). Nevertheless, in younger trees that are still forming, I use summer pruning frequently to perfect shape and reduce wasted energy in branches that will later be cut. If you are on an area where summer pruning doesn't cause problems, I would definitively do it.
@@JSacadura I'm in the North of Portugal. Would this be a good zone? The trees are not young but they are vigorous. The new branches are growing upwards.
Hi Jaime,doing a m/cleft graft how far in should I cut in the stock ,eg if it’s 20cm,,,thick,,,great teacher mate.regards frank (ps what is your average nite temp in winter please)mine is av 8. C
Hi, Frank. Sorry for the delayed response (too much work last month). With the modified cleft graft you don't need to cut too deep into the rootstock. 2-3 cm is usually enough, using a 7-8 cm scion with 2 or 3 buds.
I forgot. i am near the ocean and in the winter the temperatures rarely go below 0ºC, with the ood year reaching -5ºC. The average minimum temperature is probably similar to yours.
If the broke branch is still in good shape, I would definitively try it. You have nothing to loose. Just remember to protect the graft well (from the sun) during the first 2-3 weeks.
Its too cold for mango trees were I live, so I will have to stay with apples (but some varieties are quite extraordinary, with a perfect ratio of sweet/acidity and I love them very much)
Grafting your fruit trees in the spring and leaving your grafts grow unchecked is not an efficient use of your tree energy resources. Start pruning your grafts early, to form the tree quickly and to keep in check the vigorous growth of some varieties. Leave a COMMENT, if you like the video or if you have any questions, and I will try to answer as many as I can.
Table of contents
00:00 - Intro
1. Reasons to summer prune a grafted tree - 0:55
2. Pruning grafts - Basic Principles - 2:20
2a. Remove lower branches - 2:44
2b. Remove crossing branches - 3:04
2c. Thinning branches - 3:32
2d. Heading branches- 5:27
2e. Pruning results - 6:04
3. Managing vigor in different grafts - 6:18
4. Managing grafts done at a later date - 7:23
Check my grafting and pruning videos, to know more about the grafting and pruning techniques used:
Best Grafting Techniques | WHICH Grafting Technique should I CHOOSE, when grafting fruit trees? - ua-cam.com/video/tFWvZzMv2Io/v-deo.html
Basic Pruning Techniques - ua-cam.com/video/buziSuLiUhY/v-deo.html
Cleft Graft and Modified Cleft Graft - When and how to use each of these grafting techniques - ua-cam.com/video/JjNYr_O5NzQ/v-deo.html
Grafting Fruit Trees | Changing varieties in old Pear Trees | Bark Grafting - ua-cam.com/video/b-iyXqG10YU/v-deo.html
Really excellent; comprehensive instructions, numerous scenarios, not too many adverts and no crazy music! Long may you prosper......
Glad you liked the video, Bob. Thanks for the comment and the support.
Just want to say thankyou for the tutorials and education you've given us all.....I've watched so many videos and different approaches to grafting and technique....and always back watching yours.inwhich now I only watch...cheers mate your an awsome teacher
Another great teaching video, thank you for the awesome content. I learned the hard way about pruning vigorous growth on a graft. We had a large wind event a couple weeks ago and I had a newly grafted elephant heart plum break off right at the graft union. It just got too big for the graft to support it in that wind. The bright side was that I was able to cut a scion out of the green wood that had more developed buds on it and graft it back to the rootstock. I covered it with foil like you have shown so many times and to my surprise this morning I opened the foil and it had a bunch of new leaves growing out of the scion! I was very excited to see I was able to save that variety. I went ahead and pruned all my other overly vigorous grafts after that to avoid the same problem again.
Hi, Jared. Thanks for the comment. We all have learned the hard way the importance of pruning the vigorous growth of a young graft. I also have saved a few varieties, grafting them immediately after they broke. If you protect the grafts well, you can graft in late spring and throughout the summer. I am glad you saved the variety.
JSacadura thank you. I am glad also. I was so excited about having elephant heart added to my collection and so sad to see it broken off that day. Hopefully the new graft is as vigorous as the original.
I'm so inspired! Learning so much from your videos :-)
Very useful video in my efforts to learn to prune better - thanks!
Thank you so much, I've been looking for this kind of information for two years.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment.
Excelente opción para renovar árboles viejos.
Another great video thank you for sharing.
Thank you for this!
Thanks! I just lost a scion to wind on a new bark graft because of rapid growth and wind.
Wonderful job, your channel is very interesting, thank you for sharing.
Excellent content as always! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Glad you enjoyed it! Sorry for the delayed response. Thanks for the comment.
Great content, you really explain well JSacadura, awesome!!!!
Obrigado aprendo muito com teus vídeos.
É um prazer assistir seus vídeos José ! Amizades da Bretanha
Thank you so much. very helpful.
Watching your videos from Bangladesh
Well done! Thx.
Very nice video and helpful thanks so much
Ótimo conteúdo
Good video thanks.
Very very good information given by you sir, could you please suggest us ,what paste has to be apply on cut branches.
Mais uma vez, obrigado!
De nada, Emanuel. Espero que o video tenha sido útil.
3 juli 2020
New vidio,
Mantap
Sir please make video on the how rootstocks are made...seedlings as well as clonal....stooling etc!
Nice information sir jee so nice
thank you
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment.
Fantastic advice as usual. I followed your original video and bark grafted some apple scions onto the stump of a limb of an old apple tree last winter.
The limb came down in a storm last year.
I am pleased to see that the scions grafted successfully and a I now have a number of choices to make. I watched this video with obvious interest but although my new growth is around 0.5 of a meter long now they are still green, although very strong and fibrous rather than brown and woody like yours.
1) Should I prune now regardless or wait till the growth turns brown and woody?
2)Should I prune the growth just above a leaf that is pointing in the direction of where I want the new branches to grow? Thank You
Before this video, I had already done a first pruning, a couple of months ago, when the branches were still green. If I hadn't done that, there would be even more new branches, dividing resources in the new grafts. So, you can prune now, if you want. Second question - if the grafts are well established you can prune were you want the new branches to grow. if they are still young grafts, I let them grow a bit more and use most of the branch to produce energy, before pruning at the desired spot (I usually only do that, the following year).
merci beaucoup !
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment.
Superb n great
Question: why did you say that heavy pruning may not be as recommended if it's too hot in the summer? Thank you for the video.
Very nice🎉🎉🎉😅😅😅❤❤❤❤
Nice info video,
Hi, when you cut the big branch after grifting do you paint the cut area or use any other kind materials? Please reply .
yeah mon! jah bless!
Have done this already. 🥰
👍👍👍
Viva. Mais um ótimo vídeo.
Quantos tratamentos e que faz em média as Pereiras/macieiras por ano?
Quais são os mais importantes?
Estão com óptimo aspecto. De que zona é que é?
Obrigado.
Olá, Carlos. Em primeiro lugar, peço desculpa pela resposta tardia. Este último mês foi de loucos e não me foi possível dar atenção ao canal (estou agora a rever os comentários). Sou da zona de Óbidos e na minha zona (muito húmida), são necessários pelo menos 2-3 tratamentos contra fungos e insetos para se conseguir armazenar alguma fruta, sem estar bichada ou com pedrado. Este ano, por questõs várias, só fiz o tratamento de inverno e já dá para ver que não vou conseguir armazenar nenhuma fruta. Mas sempre dá para o consumo imediato. Obrigado pelo comentário.
Excellent video. I have lots of satsumas oranges need attention so im going to work them today! Thanks for your time and teaching.wish i was there with you helping you and takeing in the beautiful scenery beautiful beard it makes you look like a sexy greek god!
What do you brush in the tree? Is it perefin wax? Is it necessary to do so.. If so what is the alternative.. Any normal wax
And please make a video on bud grafting in apple
I rarely use bud grafting in apple. Only when I receive a single scion of a precious variety with only 3-4 buds. Then I use bud grafting to produce 3-4 new grafted trees. It works quite well, even using the chip grafting technique that I show in this video, used on other fruit types - ua-cam.com/video/3lssseaG_Tg/v-deo.html
Hi there. Great video as usual. Please tell me in thicker branches where 2 or 3 grafts are done , should one graft be allowed to grow and if yes then when should other be removed?
Sorry for the late reply. When doing bark grafts and placing more than one scion, I usually cut all the other grafted branches after a few months since the graft is done, leaving only the definitive one. Nevertheless, if none of them is clearly more vigorous, or if you have any doubts, you can do it in the following season, just to be on the safe side (as a backup for potential breakage from winds or other problems, with important varieties)
@@JSacadura thanks for the reply. Highly appreciated.
hi friend,
I was curious why is there lots of weed in the field in the background?
In some of the background fields because its being left uncultivated for one year (an agricultural cultural practice know as fallow ground or fallowing that helps regenerate the soil nutrients). Between the rows of trees is just because the mechanical weed removal process had a bigger interval than usual (I prefer to avoid the use of herbicides if I can avoid it).
When is the best time to prune and grafting, end of july or August please?thank you
In my zone (9a - Portugal), pruning is done in late winter (January-February) and grafting is mostly done in the spring (around March/April)
I tried to graft loquat last spring with the bark graft technique, none took.. 🙁. I will try again in the fall.
Sorry to hear that, John. I have to say that I wouldn't recommend bark grafting with loquat. As an evergreen, its very delicate concerning the removal of all the green growth in a main branch. usually, it removes all the sap from that branch and the grafts will dry out. Try whip and tongue (or modified cleft graft) on smaller diameter branches as I show on my video on grafting loquats - ua-cam.com/video/sT_mEAPRn60/v-deo.html. You can also try Lateral bark grafting (it also works, although its a bit more difficult to execute in loquats).
Manda mais com legendas em português.
We have four apple trees that were pruned last fall. They were heavily pruned as they were getting too tall. Do you think further summer pruning is advisable to shape the trees even better?
Yes. Good plan.
Hi, Carlos. I only prune adult apple trees when there is a real need for that (removing vigorous vertical growth that is shading fruits, heading branches that will break with the weight, etc). Nevertheless, in younger trees that are still forming, I use summer pruning frequently to perfect shape and reduce wasted energy in branches that will later be cut. If you are on an area where summer pruning doesn't cause problems, I would definitively do it.
@@JSacadura I'm in the North of Portugal. Would this be a good zone? The trees are not young but they are vigorous. The new branches are growing upwards.
Hi Jaime,doing a m/cleft graft how far in should I cut in the stock ,eg if it’s 20cm,,,thick,,,great teacher mate.regards frank (ps what is your average nite temp in winter please)mine is av 8. C
Hi, Frank. Sorry for the delayed response (too much work last month). With the modified cleft graft you don't need to cut too deep into the rootstock. 2-3 cm is usually enough, using a 7-8 cm scion with 2 or 3 buds.
I forgot. i am near the ocean and in the winter the temperatures rarely go below 0ºC, with the ood year reaching -5ºC. The average minimum temperature is probably similar to yours.
I have one Gooseberry shrub that torned under the heavy winds.can I graft it in the summer with it's own buds?
If the broke branch is still in good shape, I would definitively try it. You have nothing to loose. Just remember to protect the graft well (from the sun) during the first 2-3 weeks.
Is this grafting type Compatible in case of apple here in kashmir
Sorry for the delayed response. Yes, you can use this grafting technique in apples.
can I do the bark graft in the summer ?
it not usually recommended, specially if the temperatures are too high, as there is a chance that the grafts and even the rootstock might dry out.
Cen you gide me I'm frome India
Plant a mango tree it is better than apples
Its too cold for mango trees were I live, so I will have to stay with apples (but some varieties are quite extraordinary, with a perfect ratio of sweet/acidity and I love them very much)