▼EXPAND FOR LINKS TO THE TOOLS▼ 🎥 Watch Next - Tested: Parallel Clamps, Which Brand is Best? ua-cam.com/video/jA4nhgY30kU/v-deo.html 🛠 Tools In This Video: Wen Drill Press - amzn.to/3TvXksO Milwaukee Drill and Impact Set - homedepot.sjv.io/5brZG3 DeWALT Drill Bit Set - amzn.to/3tm3nW7 Spring Loaded Center Punch - amzn.to/3A7yU1M Brad Point Bit Set - amzn.to/3UTEugp Fisch Forster Bit Set (top of the line) - amzn.to/3DZ7yfC Irwin Forstner Bit Set (budget pick)- amzn.to/3EqnHw0 Wood Owl Overdrive Bit Set (TayTools) - lddy.no/1dld5 Overdrive Bit Set (Amazon) amzn.to/3hEZoBC Self Centering Bit Set - amzn.to/3NWvYuI Irwin Counter Sink Bits - amzn.to/3X7X6ez Wood Owl Countersink Set - amzn.to/3G911kZ Counter Sink Bit with Depth Stop amzn.to/3toCrF7 Milwaukee Hole Saw Kit (Amazon) - amzn.to/3hzG4p8 Milwaukee Hole Saw Kit (Home Depot) homedepot.sjv.io/kjmWkx Spade Bit Set - amzn.to/3EqoixJ (If you use one of these Amazon and other affiliate links, I may receive a commission) Some other useful links: Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals Subscribe to our email Newsletter: mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter Check out our easy-to-follow woodworking plans: www.731woodworks.com/store Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter
An awesome trick I learned more than 20 years ago while I was specializing in door installations and replacements, using hole saws for the hardware. Depending on the mandrel you can mount a larger hole saw first then attach a smaller one that will work as the pilot bit in situations where you need to upsize a hole, such as 1 1/2" deadbolt to a 2 1/8". Some of the mandrels have shorter threads which prevents this.
@@dallasarnold8615 I do hole enlargements by drilling the new (larger) size into a sacrificial board. Then I clamp the sacrificial board to the door and use it as a steady to hole-saw the larger, possibly different-center, hole. Works great. You can use this method to saw whatever size you need in whatever center position you need.
@@BlisterBang That is how I did it before I found this much easier and faster way. I can have the hole up sized before you can find the sacrificial board, much less drill that hole and find a way to clamp the board on without marking the finish on either side.
If you're stuck on a job and the only bit available is a spade you can minimize the tear out by drilling from both sides, just like the forstner. Not perfect but it can keep you going without a major delay waiting to get a new bit.
I find hole saws to be great and I have two sets (bi-metal, one up to 3" and the other 3-6"), but... larger ones will break your wrist if you are not careful using them. Huge trick I learned when using them on a hand drill is to set the chuck to one of the higher driver torque settings you typically use when driving screws and not the dedicated drill setting. That way, if it catches in the wood (and it will) the torque limiter kicks in and does not spin the drill out of your hands. I learned the hard way. ;) Totally agree on the spade bits, like my Irwin Speedbore bits. They are really only good for construction use like boring holes in 2-by lumber for electrical runs.
One of the features that made me choose the drill I have (Bosch GSR 18V-60 C) is the kickback control. If it senses the machine rotating instead of the bit, it stops immediately. The sensitivity is programmable via a bluetooth module in the handle (sold seperately). This feature really should be standard on all modern professional-grade drills, in my oppinion.
any cutter bigger than your wrist, you should operate with the drill braced against your body instead of at arms length. or put an auxiliary handle on in a "T" configuration. if you can't do either, then limit your torque.
I recently picked up some of those overdrive bits and am blown away at how clean they cut. Half of my tests were cleaner on the "out" side than the "in" side. I will also say that I've switched to the KEO countersink bits after the recommendation from Blacktail Studios. They're more expensive but cut so much cleaner than the "tooth" style.
Auger bits can "run away" with you if you are not careful, drilling a much deeper hole than intended. I had a tradie accidently drill right through a wall and out the other side resulting in the need for plasterboard repair and rewallpapering. Coudn't match the paper so the whole hallway had to be redone
@@kenbrown2808 Ok drill a hole thats 1 1/2" and 20 " long with wood auger , there we have problems , weight of a big wood auger and price of it is $400 if you can even find one , or you can go with $6 Irwin 1 1/2" spade bit and extension shaft .
I just recently started using the brad point and Forster bits as I am still new to woodworking. They are really making a big difference for me. For example, I'm making a wooden toy tractor for my cousins soon to be born baby boy. The brad point bit made it a breeze to drill holes in the side of the wood dowels. The 60 deg angle drill bits are better for metal. There not bad however, choosing the right tool for the job can make all the difference in the world. Stay awesome.
Allow me to share, I started into woodworking 7 years after retiring, I was talking to an old colleague who had retired long ago and upon catching up I told him I was getting into woodworking, I knew he had dabbled in it as well. He asked me what type of forstner bits I purchased. I told I haven’t yet but was looking into the Irwin bits. He told not to waste my money to get Fisch bits. I tools the bite and never regretted the cost. Thanks for giving them a plug, great bits!
Rather than using spade bits for drilling through studs, use auger bits they are much faster and need less effort from the user because the screw tip pulls them through the wood. Irwin makes those too. Great video, I didn’t know about the self centering bits. I will definitely have to get a set of those.
One thing about spade bits for old work construction: they're cheap, so minimal loss when they hit a nail or screw--almost inevitable. I can get two or three spade bits for the price of one auger bit. (DIYer here, not a pro-but I've done a lot of rewiring.)
What's the difference between an augur bit and an overdrive bit? I have heard many UA-cam wood workers rave about and show great results with overdrive bits, and to me they look just about the same.
Auger bits have basically a screw for the tip which pulls your bit into the wood like a screw would. Very little downward pressure or none is needed to drill. Overdrive looks like brad-point, you have put more pressure on those to drill. Especially on larger and longer holes the design with the screw at the tip will work much better.
@@kalev60 That's a big relief, because I bought an augur bit instead of an overdrive bit for drilling bench dog holes through 4 inches of yellow pine. As soon as I ordered I thought "oh man what if I should have gotten an overdrive bit instead?" Thanks for the solid explanation.
There are hybrid spade bits now. Some have a screw auger point that pulls the bit through the wood at the beginning of the cut. Some have sharp end points that somewhat mimic a Forstner bit to cut smoother around the edge of the hole. They are cheap to loose on the jobsite and easy to sharpen.
I don’t know how well sawdust & I go together. It’s actually the bane of my existence 😂. I absolutely love your channel & appreciate you for taking the time to produce & share them with the world. God Bless you & your loved ones!
When I started woodworking, I used spade bits and dull saw hole bits simply because I didn’t know forsner bits existed. Man, when I bought my fist set of forsner bits, I was pretty excited to see the difference from spade bits. No comparison. Also, when I switched from harbor freight $15 saw hole cutters to the Milwaukee, again, what a difference. It pays to go for the right bits and, quality bits up to whatever your budget allows.
Before I retired I had a woodworking business and did electrical on the side. Paddle bits and hole saws are best used in the building trades. Auger bits too, I'd say, which are aggressive enough that they make quick work of wooden studs and beams. But yes, Forsner bits and the others in the video are great tools for woodworking.
Keep doing those "advertising tool videos" and tool reviews. Your videos have helped me heaps along my wood working journey in buying and choosing the correct tool for a specific job, and saved me a lot of money on unnecessary tools! Thank you. Keep it up!
Spade bits are good bits. The ones that leave ugly holes are the screw tip type but if you get get a good set with the brad point you wont have issues just use the right speed. I can get a hole just as clean as a Forstner bit with the spade bits i have.
Another great video. Two comments 1) Always use the side handle when using hole saws, that way, when the hole saw grabs, you have a good grip on the drill and can avoid the wrist injury. 2) spade bits.... weekend warrior construction guys maybe, but pros will use auger bits because they drill faster, and pull themselves through the timber, so less effort. I've been trying to convince myself that I "need" to replace my forstner bits with a set of the Fisch Wave bits, but just can't justify the cost at this point since the ones I have are still working for me.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I have all these types of drill bits I also have spade bits (even exchangeable spade bits, one shaft on which can be screwed the tips from 10-20 mm + 25 mm) I never drill through a board which is standing upright as you show in the video. I always have my board flat on the workbench + a backer board under it, all clamped together to the workbench That is for two reasons: I don't drill into the surface of my workbench and it minimizes tear out at the backside of the board (even with spade bits) Lately I bought an adjustable hole saw. The mechanism allows you to drill a hole of any size between 45 and 130 mm.
The metal box of twist drills is different from the jobber bits like the Dewalt ones you showed. They are a drill index and if you look closely you’ll see that the bits are labeled with decimal sizes (and sometimes letters) which indicate their size to machinists and correspond to tap sizes, etc. Many drill indexes are still sold in metal cases.
It was weird he thought that everyone had the same sets. I mean I've got a set in a metal case too, they cost $250. Just because the case is the same, doesn't mean the bits are. And you're right. I use them for metal work, and tapping. They are not the right type of bit to use on soft or medium wood. Even hard wood they're still a waste. They blunt fast on wood, and wander with no centre hole. Wood bits for wood. It's in the name.
Very informative, I’ve been on the fence for awhile if the wood owl bits were worth the investment. This video answered that question for me and now mine will be here on Tuesday! Keep on keepin on, God bless!
Glad it was helpful! They are very nice. I find a slower drill speed (mine has settings 1 and 2) I set it on 1, and use as little pressure as possible and they work very well. Not always 100% perfect but way better than any other bits
Tnx for sharing, my contractor forgot to prepare holes for my TV audio cabinet 😂 Now I have to manually add some.. poor new cabinet now will suffer from my amateur drilling skills 😅 3:59 looking at this video, Forstner bit fits my requirements but will be using hand drill.
Just a couple things I picked up on, a better way to prevent blow out is use a backer board, and we should avoid spade bits because they are primarily use in construction, lol funny you say that because 2x4's are to but yet you use them alot in your woodworking.
Thank you for the education. Slowly getting into wood working and needing to counter sink some magnets. That forstner bit is what I didn’t know I needed.
From my experience, spade bits seem to make a very nice entry and clean walls. I prevent chipping by always putting my project on a piece of scrap wood. This has made nearly-perfect holes every time I used them. (I do take my time though, no excessive pressure on the drill)
Fly cutter! While not technically "bits" these are very useful, though a little dangerous. I used to build speaker cabinets and used these to cut the speaker holes up to about 8". As long as the work is securely clamped to the drill press table they're pretty safe. I've also used them with hand drills and survived. 🙂 Thanks for the great content.
You missed the three-bladed auger bit. Fantastic for drilling in heavy timber. Bottom line is each bit has it pros and cons. Use the right bit for the right job.
I still have and use the first set of forstner bits I ever had. Came from a place like Harbor Freight but before HF was around my area. I do them and my router bit sets the same, now when I need to replace one I go up in quality. I needed to cut a shallow hole for a honor coin and bought a Diablo bit, 1 7/8". I paid more for that one bit than the original set !!! I think I'll look into those wavy edge bits, really like the cut they make. I bought my first set of self centering bits off a link on your website last year from Tay Tools. I've been really happy with them and got a nice discount, enough that I ended up with a new set of card scrapers and a couple of small plastic parts boxes to store them on the same order LOL!!!
We frequently used spade bits in our shop. If we needed a larger hole that didn't need a flat bottom, or was a through hole, that was our go to. For almost any through hole where tear out would be a concern, we drilled from both sides, often using a smaller bit to create an index hole. Spade bits are especially useful for this, since they have a long brad point, because you can just drill until the point comes through, and then drill from the other side. We would also frequently use sacrificial material for when we needed to avoid tear out. In any case, we would never just drill straight through if we were worried about what the bit was going to do to the other side of the material.
I use a 2” Fisch forstner bit for tea light candle holders I make primarily from black walnut and spalted maple from my property. It works great. Takes a while to do the holes because I don’t have a higher end drill press, but a forstner bit definitely goes well with a drill press like peanut butter and jelly! Lol!
This is an excellent video a lot of carpenters would find interesting to watch with great knowledge and is ideal for hobbyists and learners who love to know things they would be nervous to ask and certainly something I needed to know I'm saving this video as a must template to know especially when I need to save to purchase bits while only on a disability pension. Knowledge is power and an asset to budget buying as you say if some things are expensive but worth it then It is better economically for me on a low budget in the long run thank you so much
I agree with you on the spade bits. They do come in handy for certain applications though. The old style with 3 points work best in my opinion, if you can find them, big box stores may have the single point with flat spade but are mostly selling the twisted spade with threaded center point. Aggressive fast drilling with rough holes. And a wrist wrencher with the larger ones! Wavy edge forstener bits are so worth the money for cleaner production! Cheers!
Those "cheap metal boxes" are US-made Huot indexes, and high-quality drills such as Chicago-Latrobe, Cleveland, and Norseman come in those exact same boxes today. I'll take your dad's drills over those DeWalt chinesium box store junkies any day of the week. Those brands I listed will cost well over $100 for a 29 piece set, but they'll also make clean holes, on size, for a long time in steel, aluminum, etc.
0:55 I always use an awl to mark the center before I drill. I only use center punches for metal. 4:14 Bosch makes bits very similar to the Fisch ones. I bought a 5 piece set (15-20-25-30-35mm) and a seperate 40mm when I needed it. I haven't regretted it for a second.
I can hear Brad Rodriguez in my head... Me point bits LOL! Definitely agree on the Fisch forstner bits. I only have one that I bought specifically to drill dog holes in workbench tops which I made out of ¾ inch MDF and MDF is hard on bits (lots of friction ➡️ heat = bad for blades). I've drilled well over 200 holes and that bit is still very sharp.
Thank you so much for clarifying the "peas and carrots" thing. I like raw carrots and raw peas in the pod are not bad. Cooked in any way for either is just bad.
I would say a bonus bit would be really long spiral bits and augers. I once had to drill an 8" deep hole into the side grain in a 2x10. It was a 3/16" pilot hole that was for a 8" structural screw.
Wood owl bits are amazing! Made in Japan, they're the best bits I've owned. Also, great for construction getting though joists, even with nails, to run wire or plumbing.
My drill bit arsenal includes HSS bits, auger bits, spade bits, left hand bits, hole saws (both metal & wood), numbered bits, letter bits, brad point bits, and step bits. :)
If you don't have (or can't find) your center punch, you can run the angle bits backwards a few revolutions with your drill and it will make a little divot in the wood to keep them from walking when you run it forward.
Buy a $2 icepick. I have one in my travel toolbox; great for scratch/awl, center punching (in wood), or checking to see if you've hit a stud through drywall. Hell, buy 5 and put them around the shop. A MUST for any DIYer.
I've been collecting a set of adapters for my 60 year old 2-jaw bit-braces. You can't easily get old bits in good condition, let alone in Metric. So I've got some Lee Valley adapters with square tangs, to take 6.35 mm hex drive bits and a 3/8" square drive, so I can put a 3/8 > 1/2 square drive adapter on it and an arbor for 13mm chuck. Forstner bits are my favorite, they are essentially, a circular plane, though I would like a set of augers and bradpoints. I only purchase on quality, after the initial price shock, expensive tools and bits work out cheaper in the end. Since I'm using a bit brace, accumulating heat won't be a problem. Having use both a drill and a brace, I can confidently say, the brace is the better tool to use for these type of bits. You have more control over the tool and it is more accurate as a result.
You can largely eliminate tear-out in wood from drill bits by placing a waste piece of wood on the back side of the board you're drilling, then pressing the two surfaces tightly together when you drill the hole.
As always a great piece! Maybe touch on the differences between metal and wood bits for those of us that have a bunch of loose bits and can't tell the difference. Thanks !
Generally you want carbide, HSS, or at the very least cobalt bits for metal, as they're harder. They also have a different tip and flute geometry to make nice chips at low speeds. And to my knowledge, they never have any screw or pointed tip to center them because it would wear too quickly.
Quick tip, try using Boelube same brand you recommended for table saws It’s a water based cutting ‘oil’ that you can use to prevent your bits from overheating being water based it won’t affect your wood glue I picked up the Dowelmax per your recommendation and use it on that bit an it is able to cut dowel holes all day long
@@1pcfred I think dipping regular steel bits in water would be bad for the steel it would be shocking the metal too much and stress it. but that's just my guess
MAny years ago I was a machinist and have drilled holes for a living. Most do not have that experience. So your video is of great value to many even if they do not realize it. Thanks for the many video's that you make.
Spade bits on the cheap from garage sales make great arrow heads. LOL I do crafting and I was able to cut about 1000 wheels from 1 1/2" pine before sharpening. Great bits for the bucks.
i bought a set of diablo hole saw bits that can cut 2in deep worked great but as i was cutting through 2 -2x4s it left about 3/4 in that i had to use a ug (spade bit). love my Montana countersink bit set with reversible screwdriver on the back side!!!
Great video. Lots of info and straight to the point. One bit that might not be must have but I use a lot is a plug bit. It allows me to use same wood or contrasting wood plugs.
i use spade bits often .they can be ground to make a specific size hole or even shape . They can be ground to widen an existing hole ,remove the tip and i can have a bottoming bit .they are cheap and easy to get my hands on .
I need to know your secrets. I have been doing a good amount of drilling for 40 years but with my spade bits I only ever get round holes. I don't even know how to try for any other shapes.
I use the spade bits when I’m dealing with landscape Timbers. I also used them for a 16 x 32 building that I wired up for a hunting cabin. Otherwise they sit around and rust.
The angle bits are mostly for metalwork (if they're decent quality.) The grey case usually came with a set. Still do with quality sets check out MSC industrial.
I recently tried the Wood Owl double flute brad-style bits to drill 3/4" dog holes in my new 2" solid birch workbench top. I drilled 48 holes with one bit. The holes were clean on the entry and exit side. I had purchased 2 bits (just in case) but only used one. The second one is still in the tube. Thanks.
There are four styles of spade bits and I agree with most of the comments on them. However two of the styles work much better for fine work than the other two.
If you are drilling with hole saws or larger bits with a hand drill, I found if drilling with my left hand and the bit grabs it will twist out of my hand, unlike holding it in my right hand it twists my wrist. Have a buddy who broke his wrist when a 3/8 twist bit caught in some steel.
I’ve had issues with countersink bits creating non-round (non-conical) results. I did get a new set of bits that look like a cone with a hole drilled at an angle. I think these will work better and jump around. But the conventional style will get limited use from me.
Tear-out hack: I put blue painter’s tape on the back side of my work piece. Burnish it down pretty flat so the adhesive is in full contact with the surface wood fibers. Pull the tape up afterward VERY carefully or the wood fibers will come up almost as bad as tear out, it with practice you can get a nice clean hole almost all the time.
In Europe, Fisch Black Shark forstner and Wood Owl Overdrive are also available under the brand KWB...or. they are also made for the KWB brand...a bit cheaper...maybe 10-15%🙄 As you recommend, I can only confirm their quality...I literally fell in love with them, and I will buy all the missing sizes...I have almost everything😁 Greetings from Slovenia🇸🇮
I had just ordered the Bosch 3 pack self-centering bits from Amazon to install a piano hinge on the palm router edge guide jigs being made. I didn’t think you were going to cover those bits at one time ago n the video. I’m interested in the owl bits. I have a set of Milwaukee auger bits I haven’t tried out yet, but maybe now I will, just to see how they do. Another good and appreciated video topic and good coverage. I usually comment, just to comment. There were only 4 at the time I watched this video.
For my use, a large selection of various sizes of Phillips and forstners, and spirals and all I need but all that to say… I “need” every possible but that I MAY use at some point
I've used spade bits many years. The ONLY way you can get a hole that doesn't look like it's been made with a axe is to use them only in a drill press and use a backer or the method of drilling the hole partially then flipping the board over. Even then the holes were pretty rough.Back when I started they didn't have Forstener or Brad point bits.
Hey Matt, I'm 64 and bought one of those metal drill indexes way back when, that looks exactly like the one you have. Gray and black with a bunch of missing bits. LOL
Great information thank you,,,question,,what bit is good to make a 3 or larger hole without going all the way through??? I'm new,I'm trying to make something for the wife and I'm stuck lol
Slight correction for forstner bits: The saw tooth actually creates the least amount of friction. If it’s dulling quickly, it might be because of a small surface area do all the work or maybe a cheaper set of bits (don’t get me wrong. I love my Irwin’s.) The continuous rim bit actually produces the smoothest cut with least tear out. But it produces the most friction. Will heat up a TON on deeper holes and lose sharpness very quickly and produce burn marks on deeper holes. Wavy Rim Bits are the happy medium. Very clean cuts, minimal tear out, minimal heat. Serious woodworkers should get a set if wavy rims, but the irwin sawtooth are perfect for weekend warriors.
I don't like them spade bits either. even when I try with a scrap piece of wood behind it to prevent tare out i still gets tare out Thanks for doing this video Matt. I always learn from watching your channel. 👊
I miss my old metal drill bit box. I wonder if you can still get them. I've started putting my drill bits in the plastic case upside down, so I don't feel like I'm going to cut my finger getting one out. Also, they grip less and pull out easier.
Just came across this video. Great review of our WoodOwl OverDrive bits. Just to clear up any confusion, WoodOwl bits are made in Japan with Japanese made S55C high-carbon steel. Owl Tools uses the owl and name and is sourced from China. NO AFFILIATION whatsoever. There might be a future cease and desist coming. Thanks!
Id also recommend some step drill bits. I mostly use them for drilling conical shaped holes to hold different tools, not necessarily for their ability to cut different sized holes in thin material.
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🎥 Watch Next - Tested: Parallel Clamps, Which Brand is Best? ua-cam.com/video/jA4nhgY30kU/v-deo.html
🛠 Tools In This Video:
Wen Drill Press - amzn.to/3TvXksO
Milwaukee Drill and Impact Set - homedepot.sjv.io/5brZG3
DeWALT Drill Bit Set - amzn.to/3tm3nW7
Spring Loaded Center Punch - amzn.to/3A7yU1M
Brad Point Bit Set - amzn.to/3UTEugp
Fisch Forster Bit Set (top of the line) - amzn.to/3DZ7yfC
Irwin Forstner Bit Set (budget pick)- amzn.to/3EqnHw0
Wood Owl Overdrive Bit Set (TayTools) - lddy.no/1dld5
Overdrive Bit Set (Amazon) amzn.to/3hEZoBC
Self Centering Bit Set - amzn.to/3NWvYuI
Irwin Counter Sink Bits - amzn.to/3X7X6ez
Wood Owl Countersink Set - amzn.to/3G911kZ
Counter Sink Bit with Depth Stop amzn.to/3toCrF7
Milwaukee Hole Saw Kit (Amazon) - amzn.to/3hzG4p8
Milwaukee Hole Saw Kit (Home Depot) homedepot.sjv.io/kjmWkx
Spade Bit Set - amzn.to/3EqoixJ
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How come no link for the "There Was Jesus" T-shirt? ; ^ ) Love the video with Dolly Parton helping Zach out.
An awesome trick I learned more than 20 years ago while I was specializing in door installations and replacements, using hole saws for the hardware. Depending on the mandrel you can mount a larger hole saw first then attach a smaller one that will work as the pilot bit in situations where you need to upsize a hole, such as 1 1/2" deadbolt to a 2 1/8". Some of the mandrels have shorter threads which prevents this.
@@dallasarnold8615 I do hole enlargements by drilling the new (larger) size into a sacrificial board. Then I clamp the sacrificial board to the door and use it as a steady to hole-saw the larger, possibly different-center, hole. Works great. You can use this method to saw whatever size you need in whatever center position you need.
@@BlisterBang That is how I did it before I found this much easier and faster way. I can have the hole up sized before you can find the sacrificial board, much less drill that hole and find a way to clamp the board on without marking the finish on either side.
If you're stuck on a job and the only bit available is a spade you can minimize the tear out by drilling from both sides, just like the forstner. Not perfect but it can keep you going without a major delay waiting to get a new bit.
I find hole saws to be great and I have two sets (bi-metal, one up to 3" and the other 3-6"), but... larger ones will break your wrist if you are not careful using them. Huge trick I learned when using them on a hand drill is to set the chuck to one of the higher driver torque settings you typically use when driving screws and not the dedicated drill setting. That way, if it catches in the wood (and it will) the torque limiter kicks in and does not spin the drill out of your hands. I learned the hard way. ;)
Totally agree on the spade bits, like my Irwin Speedbore bits. They are really only good for construction use like boring holes in 2-by lumber for electrical runs.
Great side note on the torque setting, thank you!
One of the features that made me choose the drill I have (Bosch GSR 18V-60 C) is the kickback control. If it senses the machine rotating instead of the bit, it stops immediately. The sensitivity is programmable via a bluetooth module in the handle (sold seperately).
This feature really should be standard on all modern professional-grade drills, in my oppinion.
any cutter bigger than your wrist, you should operate with the drill braced against your body instead of at arms length. or put an auxiliary handle on in a "T" configuration. if you can't do either, then limit your torque.
I recently picked up some of those overdrive bits and am blown away at how clean they cut. Half of my tests were cleaner on the "out" side than the "in" side. I will also say that I've switched to the KEO countersink bits after the recommendation from Blacktail Studios. They're more expensive but cut so much cleaner than the "tooth" style.
Totally agree on the KEO countersinks.
Definitely auger bits. I've used the longer ones for boring through beams but now there are shorter ones that make going thru studs a breeze.
yep, ship augers for deep holes. also, construction workers should avoid spade bits, too.
Auger bits can "run away" with you if you are not careful, drilling a much deeper hole than intended. I had a tradie accidently drill right through a wall and out the other side resulting in the need for plasterboard repair and rewallpapering. Coudn't match the paper so the whole hallway had to be redone
@@kenbrown2808 Ok drill a hole thats 1 1/2" and 20 " long with wood auger , there we have problems , weight of a big wood auger and price of it is $400 if you can even find one , or you can go with $6 Irwin 1 1/2" spade bit and extension shaft .
I just recently started using the brad point and Forster bits as I am still new to woodworking. They are really making a big difference for me. For example, I'm making a wooden toy tractor for my cousins soon to be born baby boy. The brad point bit made it a breeze to drill holes in the side of the wood dowels. The 60 deg angle drill bits are better for metal. There not bad however, choosing the right tool for the job can make all the difference in the world. Stay awesome.
Allow me to share, I started into woodworking 7 years after retiring, I was talking to an old colleague who had retired long ago and upon catching up I told him I was getting into woodworking, I knew he had dabbled in it as well. He asked me what type of forstner bits I purchased. I told I haven’t yet but was looking into the Irwin bits. He told not to waste my money to get Fisch bits. I tools the bite and never regretted the cost. Thanks for giving them a plug, great bits!
Rather than using spade bits for drilling through studs, use auger bits they are much faster and need less effort from the user because the screw tip pulls them through the wood. Irwin makes those too. Great video, I didn’t know about the self centering bits. I will definitely have to get a set of those.
One thing about spade bits for old work construction: they're cheap, so minimal loss when they hit a nail or screw--almost inevitable. I can get two or three spade bits for the price of one auger bit. (DIYer here, not a pro-but I've done a lot of rewiring.)
What's the difference between an augur bit and an overdrive bit? I have heard many UA-cam wood workers rave about and show great results with overdrive bits, and to me they look just about the same.
Auger bits have basically a screw for the tip which pulls your bit into the wood like a screw would. Very little downward pressure or none is needed to drill. Overdrive looks like brad-point, you have put more pressure on those to drill. Especially on larger and longer holes the design with the screw at the tip will work much better.
@@kalev60 That's a big relief, because I bought an augur bit instead of an overdrive bit for drilling bench dog holes through 4 inches of yellow pine. As soon as I ordered I thought "oh man what if I should have gotten an overdrive bit instead?" Thanks for the solid explanation.
There are hybrid spade bits now. Some have a screw auger point that pulls the bit through the wood at the beginning of the cut. Some have sharp end points that somewhat mimic a Forstner bit to cut smoother around the edge of the hole. They are cheap to loose on the jobsite and easy to sharpen.
I don’t know how well sawdust & I go together. It’s actually the bane of my existence 😂. I absolutely love your channel & appreciate you for taking the time to produce & share them with the world. God Bless you & your loved ones!
When I started woodworking, I used spade bits and dull saw hole bits simply because I didn’t know forsner bits existed. Man, when I bought my fist set of forsner bits, I was pretty excited to see the difference from spade bits. No comparison. Also, when I switched from harbor freight $15 saw hole cutters to the Milwaukee, again, what a difference. It pays to go for the right bits and, quality bits up to whatever your budget allows.
I'm new to the craft and learned so much in that video. I learn even more by reading comments. You guys are great!
Before I retired I had a woodworking business and did electrical on the side. Paddle bits and hole saws are best used in the building trades. Auger bits too, I'd say, which are aggressive enough that they make quick work of wooden studs and beams. But yes, Forsner bits and the others in the video are great tools for woodworking.
I'm ordering a set if the self-centering bits this week... I don't have any yet and need them for the reason you cited. Thanks!!!
Keep doing those "advertising tool videos" and tool reviews. Your videos have helped me heaps along my wood working journey in buying and choosing the correct tool for a specific job, and saved me a lot of money on unnecessary tools!
Thank you.
Keep it up!
Spade bits are good bits. The ones that leave ugly holes are the screw tip type but if you get get a good set with the brad point you wont have issues just use the right speed. I can get a hole just as clean as a Forstner bit with the spade bits i have.
Another great video. Two comments 1) Always use the side handle when using hole saws, that way, when the hole saw grabs, you have a good grip on the drill and can avoid the wrist injury. 2) spade bits.... weekend warrior construction guys maybe, but pros will use auger bits because they drill faster, and pull themselves through the timber, so less effort. I've been trying to convince myself that I "need" to replace my forstner bits with a set of the Fisch Wave bits, but just can't justify the cost at this point since the ones I have are still working for me.
"auger bits because they drill faster, and pull themselves through the timber" So do many spade bits, having a screw like tip
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I have all these types of drill bits I also have spade bits (even exchangeable spade bits, one shaft on which can be screwed the tips from 10-20 mm + 25 mm) I never drill through a board which is standing upright as you show in the video. I always have my board flat on the workbench + a backer board under it, all clamped together to the workbench That is for two reasons: I don't drill into the surface of my workbench and it minimizes tear out at the backside of the board (even with spade bits)
Lately I bought an adjustable hole saw. The mechanism allows you to drill a hole of any size between 45 and 130 mm.
The metal box of twist drills is different from the jobber bits like the Dewalt ones you showed. They are a drill index and if you look closely you’ll see that the bits are labeled with decimal sizes (and sometimes letters) which indicate their size to machinists and correspond to tap sizes, etc. Many drill indexes are still sold in metal cases.
It was weird he thought that everyone had the same sets. I mean I've got a set in a metal case too, they cost $250. Just because the case is the same, doesn't mean the bits are.
And you're right. I use them for metal work, and tapping.
They are not the right type of bit to use on soft or medium wood. Even hard wood they're still a waste. They blunt fast on wood, and wander with no centre hole.
Wood bits for wood. It's in the name.
Very informative, I’ve been on the fence for awhile if the wood owl bits were worth the investment. This video answered that question for me and now mine will be here on Tuesday! Keep on keepin on, God bless!
Glad it was helpful! They are very nice. I find a slower drill speed (mine has settings 1 and 2) I set it on 1, and use as little pressure as possible and they work very well. Not always 100% perfect but way better than any other bits
@@731Woodworks great tip thank you for the info! Can’t wait to try them out!
New WW here. followed a YT recommendation a couple years ago to invest in Fisch wave cutter bits and I am SO happy with mine.
I'm glad somebody was finally brave enough to come out and talk about the peas and carrots issue. All the respect.
Tnx for sharing, my contractor forgot to prepare holes for my TV audio cabinet 😂 Now I have to manually add some.. poor new cabinet now will suffer from my amateur drilling skills 😅 3:59 looking at this video, Forstner bit fits my requirements but will be using hand drill.
Just a couple things I picked up on, a better way to prevent blow out is use a backer board, and we should avoid spade bits because they are primarily use in construction, lol funny you say that because 2x4's are to but yet you use them alot in your woodworking.
Thank you for the education. Slowly getting into wood working and needing to counter sink some magnets. That forstner bit is what I didn’t know I needed.
From my experience, spade bits seem to make a very nice entry and clean walls.
I prevent chipping by always putting my project on a piece of scrap wood.
This has made nearly-perfect holes every time I used them. (I do take my time though, no excessive pressure on the drill)
Fly cutter! While not technically "bits" these are very useful, though a little dangerous. I used to build speaker cabinets and used these to cut the speaker holes up to about 8". As long as the work is securely clamped to the drill press table they're pretty safe. I've also used them with hand drills and survived. 🙂 Thanks for the great content.
You missed the three-bladed auger bit. Fantastic for drilling in heavy timber. Bottom line is each bit has it pros and cons. Use the right bit for the right job.
No matter which tool, a lot depends on technique and ultimately using the tool properly. Good video, thanks!
I still have and use the first set of forstner bits I ever had. Came from a place like Harbor Freight but before HF was around my area. I do them and my router bit sets the same, now when I need to replace one I go up in quality. I needed to cut a shallow hole for a honor coin and bought a Diablo bit, 1 7/8". I paid more for that one bit than the original set !!! I think I'll look into those wavy edge bits, really like the cut they make.
I bought my first set of self centering bits off a link on your website last year from Tay Tools. I've been really happy with them and got a nice discount, enough that I ended up with a new set of card scrapers and a couple of small plastic parts boxes to store them on the same order LOL!!!
We frequently used spade bits in our shop. If we needed a larger hole that didn't need a flat bottom, or was a through hole, that was our go to. For almost any through hole where tear out would be a concern, we drilled from both sides, often using a smaller bit to create an index hole. Spade bits are especially useful for this, since they have a long brad point, because you can just drill until the point comes through, and then drill from the other side.
We would also frequently use sacrificial material for when we needed to avoid tear out. In any case, we would never just drill straight through if we were worried about what the bit was going to do to the other side of the material.
Very informative. Thank you for the information...really like your delivery 👍
I use a 2” Fisch forstner bit for tea light candle holders I make primarily from black walnut and spalted maple from my property. It works great. Takes a while to do the holes because I don’t have a higher end drill press, but a forstner bit definitely goes well with a drill press like peanut butter and jelly! Lol!
This is an excellent video a lot of carpenters would find interesting to watch with great knowledge and is ideal for hobbyists and learners who love to know things they would be nervous to ask and certainly something I needed to know I'm saving this video as a must template to know especially when I need to save to purchase bits while only on a disability pension. Knowledge is power and an asset to budget buying as you say if some things are expensive but worth it then It is better economically for me on a low budget in the long run thank you so much
I agree with you on the spade bits. They do come in handy for certain applications though. The old style with 3 points work best in my opinion, if you can find them, big box stores may have the single point with flat spade but are mostly selling the twisted spade with threaded center point. Aggressive fast drilling with rough holes. And a wrist wrencher with the larger ones!
Wavy edge forstener bits are so worth the money for cleaner production!
Cheers!
really enjoy your videos. I have been woodworking for some years now, but am always eager to learn more. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Those "cheap metal boxes" are US-made Huot indexes, and high-quality drills such as Chicago-Latrobe, Cleveland, and Norseman come in those exact same boxes today. I'll take your dad's drills over those DeWalt chinesium box store junkies any day of the week. Those brands I listed will cost well over $100 for a 29 piece set, but they'll also make clean holes, on size, for a long time in steel, aluminum, etc.
0:55 I always use an awl to mark the center before I drill. I only use center punches for metal.
4:14 Bosch makes bits very similar to the Fisch ones. I bought a 5 piece set (15-20-25-30-35mm) and a seperate 40mm when I needed it. I haven't regretted it for a second.
I have a couple of the Bosch forstner bits, they are very good - but pricey👍🏻 - you get what you pay for 😀
I can hear Brad Rodriguez in my head... Me point bits LOL!
Definitely agree on the Fisch forstner bits. I only have one that I bought specifically to drill dog holes in workbench tops which I made out of ¾ inch MDF and MDF is hard on bits (lots of friction ➡️ heat = bad for blades). I've drilled well over 200 holes and that bit is still very sharp.
Thank you so much for clarifying the "peas and carrots" thing. I like raw carrots and raw peas in the pod are not bad. Cooked in any way for either is just bad.
Enjoyed the video and agree. Also, big fan of Zach Williams. God Bless Brother!
I would say a bonus bit would be really long spiral bits and augers.
I once had to drill an 8" deep hole into the side grain in a 2x10.
It was a 3/16" pilot hole that was for a 8" structural screw.
Wood owl bits are amazing! Made in Japan, they're the best bits I've owned. Also, great for construction getting though joists, even with nails, to run wire or plumbing.
My drill bit arsenal includes HSS bits, auger bits, spade bits, left hand bits, hole saws (both metal & wood), numbered bits, letter bits, brad point bits, and step bits. :)
Left hand bits are only needed if you are tapping left handed threads.
I am an electrician, that last bit do be looking useful thanks.
If you don't have (or can't find) your center punch, you can run the angle bits backwards a few revolutions
with your drill and it will make a little divot in the wood to keep them from walking when you run it forward.
Buy a $2 icepick. I have one in my travel toolbox; great for scratch/awl, center punching (in wood), or checking to see if you've hit a stud through drywall. Hell, buy 5 and put them around the shop. A MUST for any DIYer.
A short sheet rock screw makes a fine starter hole
I've been collecting a set of adapters for my 60 year old 2-jaw bit-braces. You can't easily get old bits in good condition, let alone in Metric. So I've got some Lee Valley adapters with square tangs, to take 6.35 mm hex drive bits and a 3/8" square drive, so I can put a 3/8 > 1/2 square drive adapter on it and an arbor for 13mm chuck.
Forstner bits are my favorite, they are essentially, a circular plane, though I would like a set of augers and bradpoints. I only purchase on quality, after the initial price shock, expensive tools and bits work out cheaper in the end.
Since I'm using a bit brace, accumulating heat won't be a problem. Having use both a drill and a brace, I can confidently say, the brace is the better tool to use for these type of bits. You have more control over the tool and it is more accurate as a result.
For fast drilling and no care on clean drilling I like those bit that yave the screw tip that draws in the drill. I use them to drill in logs.
Brad points are my favorite I wish I learned about earlier in my building. Great video, and great t-shirt (his new album is awesome!).
You can largely eliminate tear-out in wood from drill bits by placing a waste piece of wood on the back side of the board you're drilling, then pressing the two surfaces tightly together when you drill the hole.
I love my Bormax Forstner bits!
There's one more set I have in my arsenal - stubby brad point bits. I don't use them a lot but when you are in tight quarters, they are invaluable.
As always a great piece! Maybe touch on the differences between metal and wood bits for those of us that have a bunch of loose bits and can't tell the difference. Thanks !
Generally you want carbide, HSS, or at the very least cobalt bits for metal, as they're harder. They also have a different tip and flute geometry to make nice chips at low speeds. And to my knowledge, they never have any screw or pointed tip to center them because it would wear too quickly.
Quick tip, try using Boelube same brand you recommended for table saws
It’s a water based cutting ‘oil’ that you can use to prevent your bits from overheating being water based it won’t affect your wood glue
I picked up the Dowelmax per your recommendation and use it on that bit an it is able to cut dowel holes all day long
@@1pcfred I think dipping regular steel bits in water would be bad for the steel
it would be shocking the metal too much and stress it. but that's just my guess
MAny years ago I was a machinist and have drilled holes for a living. Most do not have that experience. So your video is of great value to many even if they do not realize it. Thanks for the many video's that you make.
I love those Fisch Forstner bits. They were expensive, but then again, I avoid ruining an expensive piece of hardwood due to tear-out.
Spade bits on the cheap from garage sales make great arrow heads. LOL
I do crafting and I was able to cut about 1000 wheels from 1 1/2" pine before sharpening. Great bits for the bucks.
i bought a set of diablo hole saw bits that can cut 2in deep worked great but as i was cutting through 2 -2x4s it left about 3/4 in that i had to use a ug (spade bit). love my Montana countersink bit set with reversible screwdriver on the back side!!!
Great video. Lots of info and straight to the point.
One bit that might not be must have but I use a lot is a plug bit. It allows me to use same wood or contrasting wood plugs.
i use spade bits often .they can be ground to make a specific size hole or even shape . They can be ground to widen an existing hole ,remove the tip and i can have a bottoming bit .they are cheap and easy to get my hands on .
I need to know your secrets. I have been doing a good amount of drilling for 40 years but with my spade bits I only ever get round holes. I don't even know how to try for any other shapes.
Thanks, this was a very informative video. Appreciate you.
Great breakdown of drilling
I use the spade bits when I’m dealing with landscape Timbers. I also used them for a 16 x 32 building that I wired up for a hunting cabin. Otherwise they sit around and rust.
The angle bits are mostly for metalwork (if they're decent quality.) The grey case usually came with a set. Still do with quality sets check out MSC industrial.
One key thing with your Forstner bits: Adjust your drill press' speed to match the rating for the bit, and they won't heat up and dull as fast.
Assuming your drill press even has enough torque, which mine doesnt for anything over 1/2" or so lol
Id say a really nice butterfly bit is always worth having in the back. Not gonna use it every day but when you need it, you need it.
Thanks for the great tips!
I recently tried the Wood Owl double flute brad-style bits to drill 3/4" dog holes in my new 2" solid birch workbench top. I drilled 48 holes with one bit. The holes were clean on the entry and exit side. I had purchased 2 bits (just in case) but only used one. The second one is still in the tube. Thanks.
There are four styles of spade bits and I agree with most of the comments on them. However two of the styles work much better for fine work than the other two.
great overview. Thank You very much !
What about zero flute countersink bits? Are they any good?
If you are drilling with hole saws or larger bits with a hand drill, I found if drilling with my left hand and the bit grabs it will twist out of my hand, unlike holding it in my right hand it twists my wrist. Have a buddy who broke his wrist when a 3/8 twist bit caught in some steel.
I’ve had issues with countersink bits creating non-round (non-conical) results. I did get a new set of bits that look like a cone with a hole drilled at an angle. I think these will work better and jump around. But the conventional style will get limited use from me.
Excellent class. Thank you!💚💛🇧🇷
Nice bit of info. Thanks.
Tear-out hack: I put blue painter’s tape on the back side of my work piece. Burnish it down pretty flat so the adhesive is in full contact with the surface wood fibers. Pull the tape up afterward VERY carefully or the wood fibers will come up almost as bad as tear out, it with practice you can get a nice clean hole almost all the time.
In Europe, Fisch Black Shark forstner and Wood Owl Overdrive are also available under the brand KWB...or. they are also made for the KWB brand...a bit cheaper...maybe 10-15%🙄
As you recommend, I can only confirm their quality...I literally fell in love with them, and I will buy all the missing sizes...I have almost everything😁
Greetings from Slovenia🇸🇮
Flat bottom drill bits- I use them in my drill press to make small mortises in decorative boxes
I had just ordered the Bosch 3 pack self-centering bits from Amazon to install a piano hinge on the palm router edge guide jigs being made. I didn’t think you were going to cover those bits at one time ago n the video. I’m interested in the owl bits. I have a set of Milwaukee auger bits I haven’t tried out yet, but maybe now I will, just to see how they do. Another good and appreciated video topic and good coverage. I usually comment, just to comment. There were only 4 at the time I watched this video.
I bought the overdrive bits to drill holes in my garden to plant stuff lol
For my use, a large selection of various sizes of Phillips and forstners, and spirals and all I need but all that to say… I “need” every possible but that I MAY use at some point
Good set of Carbide Forstner bits off Amazon or eBay are recommended in my opinion
I've used spade bits many years. The ONLY way you can get a hole that doesn't look like it's been made with a axe is to use them only in a drill press and use a backer or the method of drilling the hole partially then flipping the board over. Even then the holes were pretty rough.Back when I started they didn't have Forstener or Brad point bits.
Hey Matt, I'm 64 and bought one of those metal drill indexes way back when, that looks exactly like the one you have. Gray and black with a bunch of missing bits. LOL
Excellent. Thank you Dear Sir and have a wonderful 2025!
You forgot mortise chisel bits! Never used them but they seem amazing!
Very informative sir .
I have some self-centering bits and have broken the bit on one. They are shorter than regular drill bits and I have yet to find a replacement.
Been struggling boring 3 inch holes in end grain of cedar posts, 12 inches deep. any suggestions? My forstner bit I'd struggling
@731 Woodworks, Matt, I also avoid bacon bits, but somehow I like pepperoni. 🤣 Great video. I learned a lot. Keep up the good work.
😂 😂
Avoid the budget bacon bits and you’ll have better results
Do you think you could do a video on how you keep your shop clean?
Great information thank you,,,question,,what bit is good to make a 3 or larger hole without going all the way through??? I'm new,I'm trying to make something for the wife and I'm stuck lol
Great information on the different types of bit. I really like the first forstner bits they do make some clean holes
good reveive on bits thank tou
Slight correction for forstner bits:
The saw tooth actually creates the least amount of friction. If it’s dulling quickly, it might be because of a small surface area do all the work or maybe a cheaper set of bits (don’t get me wrong. I love my Irwin’s.)
The continuous rim bit actually produces the smoothest cut with least tear out. But it produces the most friction. Will heat up a TON on deeper holes and lose sharpness very quickly and produce burn marks on deeper holes.
Wavy Rim Bits are the happy medium. Very clean cuts, minimal tear out, minimal heat.
Serious woodworkers should get a set if wavy rims, but the irwin sawtooth are perfect for weekend warriors.
I don't like them spade bits either. even when I try with a scrap piece of wood behind it to prevent tare out i still gets tare out Thanks for doing this video Matt. I always learn from watching your channel. 👊
A quick opinion on speedbor bits. I would guess they are closest to spade bits.
Love your vids, but a 19mm spade bit has done a great job drilling dog holes in my 50mm thick workbench
I miss my old metal drill bit box. I wonder if you can still get them. I've started putting my drill bits in the plastic case upside down, so I don't feel like I'm going to cut my finger getting one out. Also, they grip less and pull out easier.
Like your shirt and the artist.
Just came across this video. Great review of our WoodOwl OverDrive bits. Just to clear up any confusion, WoodOwl bits are made in Japan with Japanese made S55C high-carbon steel.
Owl Tools uses the owl and name and is sourced from China. NO AFFILIATION whatsoever. There might be a future cease and desist coming. Thanks!
Thanks for the info!
Id also recommend some step drill bits. I mostly use them for drilling conical shaped holes to hold different tools, not necessarily for their ability to cut different sized holes in thin material.
Love your work !
Thank you!