Jaguar Mark 2 Won't Rev Past 3,000 rpm... - Let's Fix It!
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
- This Jaguar Mark 2 won't rev past 3,000 rpm. It will idle fine and runs ok at lower speeds but anything above 2,500 rpm it starts missfiring and at about 3,000 rpm it won't rev any more.
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#jaguar #mark2 #mk2 - Авто та транспорт
Great video. As a former mechanic, UK and Canada, and Jag 3.4 owner, twice, I felt tears forming. A trip down memory lane. Kudos for even discovering the automatic rev limiter, ha-ha. Most old Jags never get driven past 3000 rpm anyway!!
I would have tested it after fixing the loose coil lead. I’ve had the same issues for very minor electrical issues. Old school mechanic….well used to points and dwell angles and stuff, no OBD scanners when I started out 😮😮
Enjoyed the video, which brings back memories of my '62 Mk2, which had a triple carb 4.2 engine out of an E-Type. Fun car! One important thing you didn't show was lubing the distributor cam or points rubbing block with appropriate grease. Not doing so will cause the rubbing block to wear down, the points to close down, and the timing to retard more and more....
Thanks for another great video Adam. About 40 years ago when I was presented with a running issue I would immediately replace plugs/points/condensor and 80-90% the car would be fixed iff not I would investigate further.
Another thing I learnt in my teens was a reasonably sure way of diagnosing a faulty condenser was a bouncing electronic rev counter needle. I think these older Jags have cable tachometers. You are also lucky to have a good stock of original parts. All the best from Scotland Jim.
That takes me back. My second car, when I was about 22, was a 2.4 litre Mk2, in saluki bronze. It failed once from a duff condenser. It was old and a bit rusty, and the clutch was gradually failing, but it gave me two years of fun motoring whilst my friends were driving Morris Minors and other little cars of the era. One thing I remember was that it ran much better after I had the two SU carburettors re-jetted and balanced, and a new set of spark plugs, which in those days cost just 5 shillings each (25P).
I learn a lot from watching your thought process while you diagnose problems. Thanks for sharing!
I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Takes me back many years when all cars had points.
I always suspected the quality of the aftermarket points and condensers. Quite often one would replace them only to have the same problem a month later. My dad always kept a spare set of points and condenser in the car. On more than one occasion we needer to stop and replace them on the roadside.
I would confirm and measure the spark with a variable gap spark tester. I always used a dwell meter to set the gap (takes a bit of trial and error). That way the timing is preserved.
I try to use NOS condensers when possible. I used a dwell meter on the car later to verify also. Didn’t show it since I’m planning to film a whole video on setting dwell. I’ll use my Rover P6 V8 since the distributor is in a good location for filming
@@LivingWithAClassic interesting, we used to pick up some junk from the service station. I have to add that points can be reliable as I have managed to do more than 10K miles on a car without touching the ignition system at all.
I had a Series 2 Daimler Sovereign with the 4.2 XK engine for a very long time. I would simply change plugs, points and condenser and adjust the timing fairly regularly so I never had any issues. I also kept a rotor arm, distributor cap and set of leads on the shelf in case I ever needed them. The stuff was really cheap and the job took only a few minutes.
Great diagnostic work Adam. I'm always surprised at how many nice old Jaguars you see in Sweden. Do you have any idea how many Jaguars exist in Sweden?
Great video, very nice old Jag
The ignition coil and condenser is usually ‘matched’ to some degree. This because the capacitance and inductance will have some ‘resonance’ as they switched the current. I had an old Volvo 30 years ago and found using a different ignition coil that the manufacturer didn’t use, caused all sorts of problems with the original condenser.
Just a further comment , the new content is great , I ding myself looking forward to the next update or project. Lots of detail with the video this morning.
exhaust sounds opened up? good sound!
Well done!! I’ve done the same with my ‘’53 MK7
Such a beautiful car. Great troubleshooting guide. Thanks. Also, I keep forgetting to say your calendar arrived in great condition and looks great. Nice high quality!
nice one. always nice to fit some new service items. nice vid.
Love the trouble shooting video's keep it up Thanks
Ps any closer to the v12 rebuild
Hi Did you do a video on tuning the carbs on this car earlier..GN
Go to electronic ignition makes a big difference. You don't need anything fancy just basic electronic ignition
Not always my choice when it’s a customer car. Some want to keep it stock
That bouncing speedo can sometimes be fixed by puling and greasing the inner cable. There is no need to pull out the outer housing.
A good fix for sure if the person wants a 100% original. I have found on eBay GPS-based speedometers and they work super well too!
@@alexandrecouture2462. I just use a GPS speedo app on my smartphone. There are several freeware apps that work just fine. Phone is sitting in a suction cup window mount, so no non-original parts are needed.
I had a 1967 3.8 SType, what a car!
Phil UK
You know your jags nice video 🎉
Great result Adam good to replace those parts best regards Andy Allen
The extra parts were just good preventative maintenance
Havent warched it, but timing too advanced?
Thanks for the video Adam.
I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Nothing better to watch trouble shooting and vehicle repair from vehicles with conventional components and no modern electronics. I use to do stuff like this myself when I was much younger, except it was trial and error, and no metres. A timing gun mind you. Thanks
Where are you located.
As you know I have one of these and restoring on my channel (jagvette1) love to see these cars, so easy to work on no computers or stupid sensors.
You didn't grease the cam when fitting the new points ?.
Off camera when I installed it. It was also greased less than a month before
I might have also considered the ignition advance not advancing (stuck bob weights) especially as you pulled the distributor anyway. Most new condensers are kind of crap. A reason in itself to consider Electronic ignition.
I had checked the weights about a month back when the car was in for an oil change. They were free then so I didn’t think they would seize up that quickly. And yes they were moving freely
Nice job!
It's such a shame one of us lives in the wrong country 😂😂 Adam. As always , never a problem, always a solution Thanks Adam
The lead is called a pigtail lead! cheers
Thanks!
Did you check the vacuum advance canister.
Yes when i pulled it out. Always check that. I also checked it about a month ago when the car was in for an oil change and check.
@@LivingWithAClassic It always pays to do it all at once when you do the services, I build performance air cooled VW engines, and the last one made 200HP at the wheels and I used a vacuum advance Mallory distributor with an electronic pick up, maybe you can cut out the middleman and get rid of the points, a very nice car.
@bigboy9693 sometimes when you run a shop you can’t do what you want to a customer car. I suggested to change points and condenser then but he didn’t find it necessary. It’s always different when it’s someone else’s car
Do the later XK engines have condensers. I'm working on a 75 XJ6 with Stomberg carbs running lean and backfiring when you turn it off. Can one of these going back cause that issue
More like.mixture is wrong .
Could be on points but many Stromberg cars I have in the shop are on factory electronic ignition. Sounds like a timing / carb issue though
My dad had similar trouble in his rover p6 v8, points was the problem .
I tire quickly of point so all my older cars get electronic ignition, some things are just not worth messing with.
What a nice car!
I'm so glad the owner uses that car as a daily driver. I had the Daimler V8 version of it and drove it daily for three years. Lovely car, kept up well with modern traffic, but went through three condensers in that time. It seems that the failure rate of Chinese condensers is very high.
Getting harder and harder to find good quality spares. I'm on my third fuel pump and am thinking of jacking it in and going electric, which is a shame really
Love these cars
I view ign. condensers as maintenance items and i renew them every time i service the ignition: cap+ rotor+ points+ condenser. And i always carry the old 1 onboard as a spare.
A new condenser fitted to our Armstrong Siddeley lasted less than a week !
My first thought was rusted up bobweights in the centrifugal advance. I was surprised you didn't check that when the distributor was off.
Since I had the car in the shop a month ago for a service and I did check points gap and the distributor weights then I didn’t. That won’t go bad in just a 100 miles or so
Unless you can guarantee the quality of the condenser, rotor arm etc they will fail again relatively quickly. Most replacement parts nowadays are rubbish quality Chinese copies. For a dayly driven car why not fit electronic ignition anyway. Starts and runs better without any continual maintenance
As mentioned in the video I use NOS condensers from the 70’s. They last
@@LivingWithAClassic Not sure I would trust 50 year old condensers, they can certainly degrade over time (mica) . But why not go electronic? No more adjustment of points, better dwell control especially for a daily driver
Us old boys would sort this out in minutes . Put kettle on boy by time tea is made car is sorted . What you all going to do with these old cars when were all cremated. I know you could ask the safety flip flop brigade !!
Normally I replace the parts in place but makes for a terrible video when you can’t see anything. Much easier to film at the bench
@@LivingWithAClassic I agree with you there ... I get old cars to look at as you g guns don't have a clue ..just bought a all singing and dancing foxwell thing as my Delphi is well out of date . But I get seat 600s old Renault's . Best one was a mini with points. They didn't put the connection cable under the insulator
.thought I was a miracle man when I sorted it before they brought me a cup of tea .
@colinstickland3130 I run a shop where I just work on classic British cars. Not many people that want to work on them but i love it
I wonder how well the GM Hydramatic transmission works in the Jag.
Not watched past5mins. My first thought is the dwell angle - ie points gap too wide.
I’m not convinced it was a faulty condenser. They usually simply fail short circuit or burn out the points.
Or they cause a misfires at higher revs. I’ve had 2 other cars do it in the last 10 year
@ The V8 Rangerovers suffered from insufficient dwell angle, resulting in insufficient time for the coil to overcome its inductive resistance. I did note, later in your video, that the contact point gap looked very excessive, so I will stick with my diagnosis, thanks.
Sounds like a bad condenser. If i were a bad coil, the engine would die and not start until the coil cooled off.
I thought it would be points and condensor. :)
Good guess
@@LivingWithAClassic not a guess, experience - I had the same trouble with a Capri about three decades ago. A time when you could just open a tool kit to fix your vehicle, without nightmare electronics! :)
Hello Adam from Sydney Australia.
Really enjoying your channel, your technical knowledge and British engineering. I've never seen so much engine and accessories mounted under a bonnet.
Are the electrical companies making replacement parts for the ignition system, for older Jaguar?
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Condensers were the commonest fault on old cars, when they changed to electronic ignition cars became much more reliable, they should have stopped there these new cars are a minefield.
Hi from Sydney, Australia. Have owned 3 Jaguars in my lifetime, as mum owned 2 in hers, she bought a new black MK10 in November 1961 when I was 6 and a new 1071 420G in March:71.
Mine have been a 1965 4,2 mk10, in 1975 followed by a 1973 long wheelbase series 1 XJ6 in 1980 owned that one 32 years and replaced it with a 1967 MK10/420G in 2012. My first MK10 was run into by 2 idiots, insurance fixed it instead of writing it off and it wasn't the same, sold it & bought the rare LWB series 1 XJ6 as at the time I couldn't find a nice 4.2 mk10 or later 420G version that someone wanted to sell. Then in December 2012 I found excellent '67 420G one just deceased owner and a mere 50,020 miles from new, was still like new inside the cabin.
On all 3 the distributor eventually failed and "beheaded" themselves as the dissy's in these 4.2 cars were all the same and have a failsafe breakaway section if they seize, unlike most other cars where you have broken parts in the engine, or shrapnel in it somewhere. On all 3 I fitted electronic distributor, never needed to worry re points etc ever again. In a decade or so using it daily I have added 40,000 miles onto my'67 MK10/420G, being such a low mile car to begin with owned first by someone who lovingly had it serviced EVERY 6 WEEKS !! it has been flawless, powerful beautiful old car. All 3 kinds were well loved when new Australia bought more 3.8 mk10's, 4.2 mk10's and the third update the 420G than any other nation, I just turned 69 the other day & when I was a kid there were more of them on the road than any other Jags. when I was a little kid most men wanting a Jaguar wanted the premium example, not the "paupers" entry level MK2, most of which were automatic 2.4's driven by older well off women.
Timing light and ignition advance check?
The car was on the shop a month ago and timing was checked then. So I knew the issue had go be component that had gone bad. I checked and adjusted timing after the distributor when back in
points ignitions were a PITA back in the day, don't miss them one bit.
They’re not too bad
@@LivingWithAClassic I had an A135 Austin princess with a random no start issue a few years back, owner had spent a fortune but the car would randomly fail to start, crank but no start. Turned out the copper core in the condenser had broken but it couldn't be seen inside the insulation, mostly it made a circuit and was ok but occasionally not and a no start, this is the sort of thing that went on with old points ignitions. In any case that's a nice old Jaag and well worth the effort.
Don’t want to blow my own trumpet but I will as no one else will. My first thought was condenser. Had it been fuel starvation you initially would have been able to exceed 3000 rpm until the starvation kicked in. Off course the corrosion and condition of the wiring didn’t help.
Had the points which I couldn’t see been badly pitted I might have suspected the coil.
Overall nice job.
Wish my stype had that type of ignition instead of this electronic stuff.
I had an Audi 80 many , many years ago and it took for or five condensers before we found one that was good .
It’s getting harder and harder to find good ones
So in reality, you may not have diagnosed the condenser being the culprit, because any of those 3 could be the problem.
From experience of doing this every day it was the condenser
Today’s points and condensers are of far inferior quality compared to when they were standard equipment. My advice would be to ditch them a put an electronic system in. Fit and forget.
I use NOS parts from back in the day when I can. It’s the customer that still wants it on points. It’s not always my choice
As a daily driver, why doesn’t he swap it to electronic ignition?
I have suggested it but he doesn’t want to. If it acts up again I’ll suggest it again
I have lost faith in replacement condensers. I have an external one supplied by the Distributor doctor here in the UK. It is just a back up on my car as being +ve earth I can run it on a Boyer Bransden ignition amplifier without a condenser in circuit.
If it was coil faulty , it would overheat the battery. If it was condenser, it would foul the points automatically, you have to change the condenser and points at same time, changing the condenser only will not remedy any misfire as the damage already would have been done to the points.
🤗❤️👍💯
I think the distributor might have a very slight crack in it.
Sham u can't a meter
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I loved my mark 2 jaguar everyone says they have to be manual gearbox but I much preferred the automatic I bought my mark 2 which was a 1964 with 43 thousand miles on the clock one previous owner it had been serviced by the jaguar main dealer and had all the paperwork and a jaguar workshop manual beautiful car dark maroon with red leather used as a daily driver for 2 years Scotland 🏴
They’re both nice as manual and auto. I wouldn’t mind fitting a newer auto from say an XJ6 in it. I do love the small gear selector on them