How to clean rust from cast iron tools- and KEEP IT AWAY!
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- Опубліковано 17 тра 2018
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While I was deployed, my brother in law used my table saw and left it uncovered outside. He's been missing for awhile now, but I was able to clean my top with scotch brite and wd40.
I'm glad your saw top is ok, oh well on the brother in law
There's not a judge in the country who would convict you!
Lmaooooo!!
think they'll ever find his body
Where do you keep the wood chipper?
I'm brand new to woodworking, and owning a table saw. Your videos have been *extremely* helpful in learning so many basic things. Thank you so much for this content, you've gained a new subscriber!
I recently watched your video and used your recommendations to clean up my table saw top. It worked great. Then I used the same techniques on my joiner and my band saw. Now they all look great too. Thanks. It really improved my attitude on going to the shop.
I'm a weekend woodworker and bought a second-hand Grizzly. This video helped me bring new life back to a 24-year-old table saw.
Much appreciated!
thanks for another great no BS method for this... I was just given an old (60s) craftsman table saw that spent the spring outside and needed this tutorial!!! thanks again.
Thank you for sharing that information! It is truly important to keep the top as clean as possible!
You are the best James-appreciate the instruction.
Great video. I learned to clean and maintain the table saw top the same way with the same materials back in shop class in 1972. Thanks again.
Great video James. Nice to know I'm doing it correctly. Thanks James keep the videos coming!
I have a large round oil stone left over from my years as a machinist and that is great for removing rust. It also ensures that the table remains flat. Tanks for the wax idea. I hadn't thought about that.
I got this spray on stuff from Lee Valley and applied it to my saw. Supposed to prevent rusting. It did for a while, but the table surface gradually started turning brown from corrosion. Stripped it off and removed the rust in a similar manner to what was done in this video. I have been coating the surface with engine oil to prevent rusting since and that has worked very well. But the oil has to be cleaned off before using the saw. After watching this video I'm going to try the wax as it seems to be easier to use the saw after treatment than with my method. Thanks for posting this.
Thank you again James. Great advice.
Best advice on machine surface maintenance I have heard. I too was thinking about a non aggressive approach
Great tips. 30 years ago I used to work with a 3D Pantograph which had me rubbing my arms across the pattern plate all day. Every Friday night before going home, I would spray the surface with WD-40 then scrub it with a green Scotchbrite pad to remove the surface rust, wipe it down with alcohol to clean it really well, then apply automotive paste wax and buff it off. This left a nice clean machine, ready for work on Monday morning. Ever since then, I've applied this same technique to my woodworking equipment and the equipment is almost as clean as it was when new.
Very straight forward and easy to understand advice.
I have a steel city saw with a granite top. Doesn’t rust but still needs cleaning. I will use the wax trick from now on. Thanks. And I built a zero clearance insert with splitter as per one of your other vids. Works like a charm.
This was GREAT! I purchased a new SawStop yesterday that was a "Floor model" so it was out of the crate. Unfortunately it was EXTREMELY humid yesterday and the top was covered in surface rust by the time i got it home (20 minute drive in an open air truck). I followed your instructions and had it completely cleaned up in less than an hour and that included the time it took to go to the store. That naptha is amazing stuff. Will be using it on all my tools now.
Another great video. A few thoughts from a 35 year machinist. I agree about the 400 paper although I've used 600 mostly. What I really prefer is a FLAT medium India oilstone and kerosene. Getting rid of rust and burrs is what you want. NOT removing steel or stains. Just work it till the surface is smooth, keeping away from edges, then STOP. Everything you do to that surface is wearing it out, including running wood over it. Be kind to it.
I'm going to respect the advice of a 35 year machinist, will try, many thanks
Thanks James . The naphtha to remove the old wax is a very good tip .
Always the best info, thanks.
I keep running into an issue then next day get a Stumpy Nubs vid suggested that resolves my issue. Lesson here is I should just watch them all.
Never used Naptha. Will give it a try. Thanks for sharing your experience.
As a machinist I would add one more step. After sanding and cleaning go over the whole top with a reasonable large, flat honing stone. This will remove any small peaks remaining and reveal any major. (Small dents doesn't even cause a problem on machining tools, but the smallest peak does).
This is regularly done on even CNC-mills if something been dropped, surface rust detected or wear is suspected.
Oh and then clean again before treating the surface :-)
Great video Stumpy, no one should not have any trouble with the Johnsons paste wax. There is no silicone in it that I am aware of. I have used it for years. I do let it set on the top for about 20 minutes. It can be a bear to get off. I usually go over each section a 2nd time with fresh Johnsons, then I buff it off. I do not use anything less than 400 grit and I usually go up to 1200. I do this once a year. If you have good saw you are partial to, look for a local machine shop that is capable of regrinding the top. Have them attach any wings once you get it there and do take your miter gage bar along so they can remove the same amount of material or see about milling the track a bit deeper. This may sound extreme but if you have an old American built saw it's worth it. Just my 2¢ worth.
Great video. Great tips. Thank you for sharing
I have looked at lots of videos your video is the only one that makes sense I paid a lot for my table saw I want to take care of it thanks for the video
Well done and good information. Thanks for sharing!
Nice presentation! I never thought of using sandpaper - even the fine grades - but next time I'd like to try a piece glued to an mdf block. I've always used very fine steel wool with a paste wax to clean my iron parts.
To anyone cutting wood that may still be green (even only slightly green) the wood, scraps and sawdust left on the iron parts of tools can cause rust if left on the surface over just one night. I've had that happen on my saw.
Oh! And don't let sweaty family members touch your tools.
Thank you man I've seen a bunch of other videos on UA-cam on how to do this but I'm sooo glad you made one as I trust you a hell of a lot more than most others on here. I purchased an old "88" Sears Craftsman 113 table saw with a cast iron top and side extensions for $65 and it has the original fence, miter gauge, blade shroud and the anti kick back device. The top was a little rusty but I don't think it's pitted, I HOPE! Thank you so much man the info is much appreciated.
Great vid as usual 👍👍👍.. there are few things to this... First quality of your cast iron top makes huge difference... I have two band saws one from early 50's and other 2012... the one from 50's bearly has any rust build up ever.. Using very similar approach as in video explained, the newer saw I swear it's making it's own rust within one week (well in Florida I guess swamp weather is not helping much 😉) but for real... Some cast tops are just cheap recycled materials that react with weather very fast... You can research on www.. *type of cast iron *.. Bottom line use and do whatever takes for your area and needs...
Love the channel Stumpy, been a subscriber for about a year, I have an alternative for Cast Iron surfaces that I don't see much on UA-cam so I will put it here...It's not going to be popular because there are too many "vendors and fan-boi's" hawking their chosen products but....
Unless Cast Iron has changed much since the 60's the manuals for the saws and jointers said to rub Talc powder into the surface with a "chalkboard" eraser once a week for 8 weeks. 1960's Powermatic manuals specifically state: "DO NOT WAX". Sprinkle lightly with Talc. Rub in briskly with a blackboard eraser. Repeat weekly for first eight weeks -- then monthly. Talc will form a moisture barrier in table pores, keeping table tops slick and free of rust. Clean table tops annually with ammonia and detergent mixture. This will remove surface rust and pitch build up. Follow cleaning with talc as above."
The Powermatic 8" PM-60 Jointer I have has been in Southeast Virginia Swampland (Virginia Beach) and maintained this way for well over 40 years and I can attest it has no pitting nor does it have any residue to transfer to my wood materials.
Not picking... just exposing an alternative that will make finishing much easier and using the least expensive method I can find.
Cheers!
Dan Mueller. Thanks for the advice. I’m always reading others suggestions and they’re very good like yours.
I have a craftsman 12" table that is 56 years old. Many years ago I bought 3M Scotchbrite and use that to clean the top. At the same time, I purchased a spray can of Top Coat. The saw is in Canada I live in the U.S. so I am able to stay there for 5 1/2 months and clean and coat the saw every year. It always looks like new.
Very well spoken. Lesson learned
Am in the process of reconstituting my dad's shop in my space. Sadly there is rust. Now I know how to fix this. Thank you.
Great tips!
Thanks Stump
I’m going to give this a try. For those who have asked about if wax transfers to the wood, I’ve heard people laying down parchment paper on finish side if that’s going to be laying on the face of the table. Haven’t tried that yet either but worth a shot
Thanks 🙏 so, so much for the timely video. I recently purchased a “Cast Iron Top” TableSaw. Many woodworker wouldn’t like it much let alone love it. I could even agree with most of the reasons they’d give. The cast iron top part is not as big as some of the beautiful monsters I see on UA-cam. It’s not a cabinet saw since everything is hanging from the top, unlike a cabinet saw. I could go on the fence which I’m replacing with the Incra from my older one. It’s 110 volt not 220 3 phase. Limiting the HP the 1 HP it has to be upgraded too much. At least it’s not direct drive.
The top does need a little attention to bring it up to speed. But my joiner that lives here with me in Baton Rouge looks as if it lives in the back yard. The rust on it is horrid like tourist complaining about the humidity here.
I’ve got a far amount of resawing to do. My bandsaw won’t do it. Thin kerf, joiner thickness planet and the reclaimed cypress I found from the retired cabinet maker who did the kitchen 20 year’s ago.
I know I’d have been tempted to get out the belt sander. I can’t think of anything that needs to be more true than a joiner. Thanks again for the reminder. And I’ll use the paste was not a polisher paste wax base. Or at least do it every month. Used or not.
Just what I was looking for for my new tablesaw - as usual, you deliver!
Those who leave beverage rings on my saw top will discover how well it can cut through bone. ☠️
That is the same method I use. Great tip.
I do the same. Saw has lived most of it’s 30 years in humid garage (east Texas and Georgia). I have used a wood cover on top of it too. Between the wooden top and saw is a fabric (about towel thickness). It’s stapled to the wood. Has worked well for my table over 15 years. Can’t tell how many times I used to go out and see garden supply on it. No such thing as a horizontal surface at my home without something getting placed on it.
naphtha, what a great idea. I've used acetone in the past but this sounds a little more people friendly. Thanks for sharing!
Acetone is going to be better for you to breathe in than is the naphtha. But better to avoid too much exposure to either. Retired chemist.
Thanks for the tips. Aftet cleaning the top, as you did, consider using Bostik's Topcote or Glidecote, available from Rockler and Amazon. Bostik also makes Bearing Lubricant, especially for the bearings in woodworking equipment, but are discontinuing it. Rockler still sells it (and through Amazon) - my new can of Bearing Lubricant arrived yesterday, so you can still get it. For historical reference, these Bostik products were originally developed and sold by Sandaro, and the company (or those products) were acquired by Bostik many years ago. I still have some of these excellent products in the Sandaro-labeled cans from the 1980's..
Do you add wax after the Topcote or Glidecote?
Thank you, my table saw top was, well not that nice. I am about to make a large and detailed stereo cabinet. I did what you told me and the top looks and feels new. I tried some other techniques and they failed. I should have went with you to begin with. Thanks again. MI rocks!
I use 1k with a block. I hope to have my saw for a long time. Doesn't bother me to take a little longer. Then wipe with oily rag to pull rust out of the grain. Helps polish too. 😆 I did the cold can thing. 😢 didn't think about it till too late. Lol. New sub. 👍
all good points. I have found that down near the water here in muggy Florida, if I keep a small fan running in my non-air conditioned shop (especially when temps near dew point), I have far, far less rust problems.
My "shop" was an unheated garage that had cars in and out all winter, the only thing that worked was car wax, never had a problem. As for transfer of silicon not likely silicon is difficult to remove from paint. (NO hate mail please) I currently use other products.
A few coats of clear spray finish for storage works well and scrapes off easily.
A random orbit sander works one of my saws was really bad there were pits in the top (now filled) it is the one I currently use. I had more time than money it was very cheap.
Always credible, pithy, and fun.
Like that James I'll do that cheers more video's please.
Very informative video as usual.
Any suggestions for an aluminum table saw top? I'm a weekend woodworker and use a Skilsaw Jobsite table saw.
I have no designated shop and do my woodworking on my patio, after which I clean my tools and store them in my garage.
I use a tub liner ( like a rubber sheet) that I keep on my table surface. Works great.
when I was in the Navy, we used neutral shoe polish to buff out the table and the fence. Worked great.
Sounds about right, I was thinking about shoe polish or even car wax.
@@censusgary like any waxing method, you just need a little but the key is in the spread of that little amount.
MrMackanno dont use car wax it has silicone in it.
@@nickdewalt4526 what's wrong with silicone on it ???
@@setdown2 The silicone will contaminate the wood and your finish won't adhere to it.
Gracias, I also use automotive sanding pads (white and gray) attached to my sander
GOOD JOB AND HOW TRUE
CorrosionX - Nothing better! I have used this for over 25 years on all my cast iron and bare metal surfaces and it is excellent! I reapply about every 6 - 8 months, spray on and wipe off. I also use it as anti seize on bolts exposed to harsh environment (snow thrower, lawn mower, external pool pump fasteners...) and it has never failed.
I tried this today on a stained bandsaw table and it totally cleaned the rust off including two rings where grandkids left their drinks. Thank you … again
Hi there like your show. I use an air d a sander with 320 grit, then brake clean spray the wax as you did. Just another approach..keep it up on your end
Great video Stumpy! Nice and easy to follow and looks to be a great way to take care of my saw. Thanks again
Greatly appreciate the video . Learned the necessary steps needed for my tablesaw and will apply these steps to my other cast iron tops. Is there something else i can use besides VM & P Naptha ? They don't sell it here in California.
I've been using Autosol Metal Polish for many years. Great stuff. Requires a little elbow grease.
very good
Heh, this brought back a few bittersweet memories.
My last AF Active Duty assignment was in Grand Forks, ND. The house I bought had a yuge garage, which became both a garage and a workshop. I bought my first tools, and built a workbench and cabs with sliding drawers, and insulated/sheetrocked the walls and ceiling, and traded my compressor for a forced-air kerosene heater. It could bring the shop from -20˚ to 70˚ in about twenty minutes, BUT all my cast-iron tools, particularly my table saw, did NOT heat up that quick, and moisture from the heater immediately condensed on everything.
When the movers were packing up my household goods I took a sander to my tablesaw top, and after 2 hours or so got Her cleaned up. I didn't use naphtha but I did hit Her with Johnson paste wax, and she's Pristine still in my dry basement here in Utard, 27 years later.
(She probably could use another wax coat, by now.... :) )
Here in Australia I do what you do but use Shellite (which is Australian for Naphtha) and coat it with Silber Gleit (which you can pick up from Carbatec. Works a treat.
James - I've routinely used cosmoline rust inhibiting tacky wax wrap to my table saw top between uses. Never had rust problem because of it!
Scotchbrite to remove loose rust and then a rust converter like evaporust is what I'd recommend on heavily rusted top. I recovered an old Atlas lathe that way years ago with great results. Soak rags or paper towels in the rust converter, press flat on table surface, then wrap in saran wrap to keep it from evaporating. Eta: Yep, I've actually got a clip show of before and after pics on my own little youtube dungeon.
Informative as always. I think you might have just cost my Mrs £500. I'm looking to upgrade my table saw (birthday coming up) but was looking at cheaper saws with aluminium tables as I was worried that a cast iron table would rust quickly in my open sided shed. Now I'm thinking that the combination of the wax and a plywood "lid" I could go for the cast iron top saw
I put the paste wax on, but I made a pretty good size cross cut sled and im going to leave that on there as well!
lol... the wood sensei... wax on... wax off... (and thanks for the awesome videos)
While WD-40 isn't a "rust remover", I became a bit of a believer when I was literally anchored out on my sailboat, and had an emergency with the rigging that required disassembling some gear that turned out to have a rusted machine screw holding it together. Without either "PB Blaster" or an impact driver, I was, well, screwed. I sprayed it with WD-40 several times over the next 12 hours, and frankly was amazed when I then was able to remove it. A long story to support "Yes, WD-40 will loosen some rust". I'm just not sure that it does so better than any other light/volatile oil.
Fine Woodworking did a comparison of 20 commonly used protectants for tablesaw tops (July 2012). They selected CRC 3-36; I haven't tried it yet.
Ring on the saw table - so that’s what happened to Mustache Mike. 😂
So spooky James .. I’m about to do just that and didn’t have a clue what to use ... here in London it’s hard to find a Naptha but there must be an equivalent.
So once again 10/10
Thankyou so do much .
Rob .
Blue Cobra the closest product you might have in the UK is lighter fluid, though that has some other additives.
Coleman Fuel for camping lanterns and stoves is naptha.
"White gas" as that term is commonly used today generally refers to naphtha or Coleman fuel. Naphtha is a general term that covers a range of light petroleum distillates. ... Unleaded gasoline can sometimes be used in stoves and lanterns that are designed for Coleman fuel or naphtha, but not always.
Extremely flamable, so be careful.
I prefer silicone spray . It seals easily and makes it slick . thanks for the video
I sanded and polished mine 6 yrs ago to a mirror finish down to 3,000 grit then polishing compound and wax. It’s still perfect and the wood glides alone it.
I just restored the tablesaw top on my old 2001 Grizzly saw, which had been in storage since 2006. I made the mistake of using White Vinegar. I applied WD-40's Rust Penetrator formula and used a Scotchbrite green pad by hand. I wasn't happy with the results, so I tried Goo Gone next with a Random Orbital sander with a green Scotchbrite pad. Wow! Great results. Degreaser, Alcohol, and waxing will be next.
Suggestions for a new product to replace the SC Johnson paste wax since it's no longer being manufactured? Thanks much!
I use the resin cleaner that I use on my router bits, works a treat, then wax it with furniture polish. Any condensation drips off my barn's steel roof just bead up on it.
What...? Thanks to that poster in the back, I see that you did a thing with Roy Underhill. I love that guy! I would watch his show as a kid and sometimes go out and build some of his smaller projects (with power tools of course). Somewhere I still have the little box that has the snake bite your finger when you open it.
Bartenders friend, great fine polish.
I've removed rust from metal in many ways. Mostly a wire wheel or electrolysis(when needed). I just saved a vintage Craftsman 'pointy A' cast iron top table saw(with original 1hp 110/220 motor) that the top is covered in rust. Neighbor put it out by the street. Sadly it spent a night in the rain before I found it but the rust is much older than that. I was planning to spray it with WD40 then wire wheel it. What con does the wire wheel have for the table top? Would it leave scratches? For tools, vises, hardware, chimenea, car parts, grill grates,.... the wire wheel is great. Thanks for the advice.
Hey James - do you have any advice on how your tips might differ for a cast aluminum tabletop? My Bosch 4000 is aluminum instead of cast iron since it's more of a jobsite-style saw. Thanks!!
Where I live, we can get something called Tomato Ketchup for rust removal, fairly cheap and a nontoxic product which you can use for sausages and burgers when you're not cleaning your tablesaw. =)
Spent many years controlling rust. Finally decided to super clean top and then applied s thin epoxy coating. No more rust and stock still slides nice
had to refresh my memory on cleaning my saw... musta missed the "kill some unfortunate person..." the first time I watched it. I'll be laughing the whole time I clean my saw. Love your vids.
KEEP ON ROLLIN! Woodworking shouldn't be so confussing to those new to the craft, and the "woodworking experts" do. I'm glad you'er one of the few (that don't call them an expert but are) that make it understandable, not confussing.
Stumpy, I can't tell you how much I appreciate your videos, I've learned so much from them already. I'm a beginning wood worker. My wife and I recently bought a new home that needs a LOT of work, and for the first time in my life I will have a dedicated space for a workshop. The room itself was added onto the house back in the 80's, as part of a larger extension of the house, and the owner who did the work was not exactly the most skilled DIYer. For this reason, I need to do extensive work in the room anyway, taking things all the way down to the studs. Since I have to do this anyway, I was wondering if you could give me any advice about power requirements in a workroom. I need to add several outlets just to get it up to code, but I also have an existing 240v line in there. Currently, all I own is a 2HP Dewalt table saw and a little Ryobi miter saw, but I eventually want to have a full compliment of wood working power tools, a SawStop, bandsaw, router table, planer, jointer, etc. When building a good quality workshop, do these higher quality power tools sometimes run off of 240v? I wondering if I need to keep the 240v connection in there, expand on it, or if I can remove it completely. Thank you so much for these videos, and a video just on power requirements for a workshop might make for a good video I think.
You will definitely need 240 for medium duty machines like a cabinet saw, a a band saw, lathe, dust collector, planer, jointer- There are 120 versions of all these machines. But anything over about 3HP will run on 240
@@StumpyNubs thank you so much Stumpy!
Thanks for the tip. Does automotive paste wax work?
This year in middle Tennessee was especially bad in my unheated shop. I had surface rust on table saw, bandsaw, shaper, mortiser, and wood lathe. I should have been more careful. The table saw is a SawStop and the cast iron they use seems worse or shows up more because of the finely ground surface. I like CRC 3-36 for preservative but it has to be cleaned off or it will get on your wood. Johnson’s wax is good too but not as good for long term as CRC 3-36. The cast iron has a lot of thermal inertia, if there is such a thing, and lags the temperature change in the shop so that it is below the dew point as the temperature in the shop rises causing condensation on it.
Blaster Dry Lube with Teflon is great for the tabletop after being cleaned.
Sweat specks and sweaty hand prints cause the only problems in hot, dry country. Relatively light rust like that responds well to steel wool and paste wax plus it's easy to get the miter slots.
I actually have used a buffer to get minor rust off of my hand planes. That might work for minor cases on a table saw as well without getting too aggressive.
I just got a new SawStop PCS 175. Per the video instructions from the company I put paste wax on the tabletop to protect it. They suggested three coats. After the first coat things looked pretty good. After the second coat it was smooth to the touch but there were visible swirl marks when looked at from an angle. I have rubbed and rubbed (even used the buffer in my drill) and I can’t get them to go away. My wax is a year old - has it gone bad? Did I put it on too thick? Do I need to use some naphtha and start all over again. Or do I just ignore it? I want to keep this new saw in tip-top shape.
Hey Stumpy, I do about the same. Except I go 320-400-600 with a sanding block and Mineral Spirits. Then clean with WD 40 then the paste wax and a buffer after it drys. Some concept as you. Except I do more work!!! Lol
Think I’ll just do the wax next time. I really enjoy your vids. Enjoy all your vids especially the hand plane ones.
Take care.
Ive had similar results, sometimes starting with 220 when the saw hasn't been used in a long time. The mineral spirits or WD-40 does keep the rust in suspension.
I use a drywall hand sander (nice handle) with a rubber backing as the block for sandpaper. I can use moderate but constant pressure in a back and forth full row / side to side pattern like James has done with his jitterbug sander. I try to make every front to back pass (with the grain) a full pass and go back and forth across the entire top a few times. My little sander is way too worn out for quick results, so the hand sand works for me. Even going the full manual route, I have never spent mote than 20 minutes bringing back a 40 year old saw top. It does have some stains, but who cares?
@@andrewbieger5004 I have used 120 or probably 100 at tomes and have not done any damage. I agree, stay away from the edges and corners with too much pressure or tipping over the edge. This heavier grit will also remove a stain or glue drip. I still use Johnsons paste wax as shown in the video.
How about cleaning coated saws I believe mines Teflon coated so I use silacone spray
What about aluminum top saws; how do we go about keeping this lubricated and slick?
Be sure to avoid any wax that contains silicones (basically any car wax). Silicone will cause no end of problems when you apply finish to your workpiece.
That said, do not forgo the wax (or other surface coating, such as Slip-it). Using super fine sandpaper and WD-40, I sanded out a few light spots of rust on my table saw then and cleaned it thoroughly. I left it for the night and came back the next morning to find the entire surface covered in a fine, light rust, a phenomenon known as flash rusting.
Great advice. As a guitar builder, I learned that the hard way! Took a while to figure out though!
Anytime I'm not in the shop, I keep my table saw covered with a moving blanket.. it has pretty much stopped the condensation from getting to my cast iron top.. I fold it double and it works great.
Also keep regular maintenance with mineral spirits and wax.
Chris Singleton great advise. I bought a used saw that was sitting in a corner with a thick doubled up tarp set over 1/2 the saw. The half that was covered with the tarp was rust free, and the exposed half was fully covered in surface rust
TheKawkawlin8 0
I put rubber mats on mine when not using and that has stopped the condensation for me.
When I received my saw I clean it with 3 in 1 oil and a rag. It’s been slick ever since.
I cover the top with a cheap blue tarp, like you said, no surface rust.
Stumpy Why is it assumed that we all Have Cast Iron tables on our Saws?
My old Craftsman Table Saw # 317..... has an Aluminum Top surface but not 1
video on UA-cam about how to clean these Aluminum Topped Saws that have
been stored for years and stained & discolored really Bad? So what's the best way
to clean It? Thanks for all your Great Videos
I use Boeshield Rust free followed by T-9
I am lucky to have an overhead gas heater in the shop (garage). I don't have to share with cars so I get about 90% of the area and the washer dryer are in one corner behind a fake wall I built up. I still go through this process every few months.