Thanks for your continued support of this channel!!! Trend Essential Diamond Sharpening Kit - geni.us/A0aeA on Amazon (commissions earned) Trend Double-Sided Diamond Sharpening Stone, Fine/Coarse, 8 x 3 inch - geni.us/Khnzr on Amazon (commissions earned) Trend Lapping Fluid - geni.us/HAg4 on Amazon (commissions earned) STANLEY Sweetheart Chisels Set, 8-Piece - geni.us/kcoRTcI on Amazon (commissions earned) Stanley Chisel-Set Sweetheart (4-piece) - geni.us/BTRwxb on Amazon (commissions earned)
You only have to flatten the back of the chisel once so take your time and flatten at least the first inch of the back. After that you are repairing the bevel and that can be done quickly.
I'm no expert on sharpening either and I got a Trend diamond sharpening stone, which is like a credit card size. It came free with a router bit set I bought a while ago. I wanted to check up on the right way to use it and I just watched an actual Trend video on it and it said all you need to do with the diamond stone, is just rub the tool a few strokes on the stone, it should only take a few seconds. I don't know if that big stone you have works differently but you don't need to be rubbing your tool continuously for several minutes, like on traditional stones, from what Trend was showing.
Stumpy has some great videos for sharpening. However, for the savants of sharpening try Rob Cosman or Matt Estlea's videos. Diamond stones, water stones, ceramic stones, or lapping film on float glass. Lots of options. I use the Scary Sharp lapping film on float glass system up to 14000 grit. Mirror finishes and with a good honing guide takes maybe 5 min and usually much less to polish the secondary or tertiary bevels. Thanks!
Ha! I bought the Trend diamond stone, fluid and (expensive) honing guide also after watching James on Stumpy Nubs. I have only got three chisels and some kitchen knives to hone. I don’t care tho’ cos these will last me a lifetime👍 I didn’t get a strop included with mine tho’.
I have diamond stones. But personally each time I sharpen my things, i choose sand paper on a simple thick glass.....effective, cheap and fast. I use diamonds when i go in the woods.....
I agree with you 100% I don’t want to spend hours sharpening my chisels. I have about 6 3/4” chisel that’s I use on sit when I get back to my shop I take about 30 seconds on the electric grinder set to the right angle and I just touch them up and I’m done. I take the burr off by running the chisel With the grain of a scrape piece of wood
For chisels I always break out the plate glass with sandpaper glued to it. More work area, but the Trend stone is great to keep in the van for some dressup sharpening.
I have a 2 sided diamond plate that’s very similar and I glued a cheap piece of leather to some plywood. Only use the rough side of the plate if I have a damaged edge to fix. If it’s just to sharpen I slide the bevel side down 6-10 times, one swipe with the flat side down to take off the burr. Then repeat with the the strop. Takes 45 seconds to a minute and the tool is back to razor sharp. Makes sharpening super easy and convenient. I use windex as lapping fluid and works great.
Spencer buddy all these years and finally something I know a little about! I use an 8000 grit to put a touch up edge on. I would use a bevel cradle I call it Lie-Nielsen has a good one. I run German made 2Cherries Chisels. Then Stanley & Lie planes. I build some high end expensive Tables 6500-7500 oak , hickory , little walnut. And of course main money is finish work. Once sharp never let that plane iron or Chisel touch that 300. Just the 1000 or higher. And just the last 3/8-1/2” of it. Doing the bevel free hand can eventually ruin you 25 degree or 30 degree bevel. The back of mine (3/8” to 1/2) is a mirror finish! No scratches needs to be like a mirror. My beater chisel is also super sharp and I can cut a 2x4 down with it or cut a quick mortise ? I keep my water stones in a tray of water (Tupperware container ) 24/7. I went to the granite store and got a 16x14 “ cut square I sharpen on. That way it’s dead flat! Once your set up boom/bang your done ; everything sharp! Rob Cosman who is a professional furniture maker has a solid video on this!!
I do have one of those, and while it is a good quality tool, mine is not dead flat. The lapping plates from DMT are a couple of steps above this, and they are dead flat. The Trend lapping fluid is pretty good.
When I was 19 and right out of high school in 1975 I went to work for a medium size GC. Another guy with the same background started the same day. An old carpenter had his choice of the other guy or me. He wanted to see our hand tools and saw horses. He picked me because I had a sharpening stone in my wooden hand box. Back then carpenters used a wooden tool box.
Outstanding video tutorial! I have never mastered the art of sharpening and usually work with dull tools. After watching your video I am going to order this kit and get better results. Thank you for sharing!
Have you tried the worksharp 3000? I also hate sharpening, but with the worksharp I can leave a helper to sharpen all the tools in the shop. With next to no training he can get them all to a good edge in no time. Fast and easy to use. It was a great investment.
Yes, when woodworkers have to make a living executing their craft they need to be able to redress and sharpen quickly. I have not understood the amount of time people spend in sharpening. I could never afford it and nor do I enjoy it enough!
The key is to give them a few quick licks as soon as they start to go dull. If you wait too long then it becomes a time consuming operation to rehone them. Then we spend too much time to get them perfect. 95% of the way then a tune up when it’s 80% will save a huge amount of time versus going 100% then rehoning when it’s 50%.
Different types of work require different levels of sharpening. As a retired carpenter transitioning into furniture making, I can attest to the difference in detail and tool sharpening between the two trades. Let’s not be so black and white about different woodworkers’ needs for sharp cutting tools.
Everybody is right as long as you end up sharp. Definitely flatten your back. I prefer to hollow grind the bevel. The main reason for this is I always add a microbevel of about five degrees to the main bevel. The hollow grind allows you to touch up your microbevel more times without regrinding the main bevel. More work at first but when you're on the job or even just in the shop a couple of quick passes on a stone (unless you have really damaged it) and you're right back to sharp.
I bought a similar product called Dia-Sharp. Their product has the diamonds continuously distributed on the plate rather than in dots. I don't know if it makes much difference. I have been very satisfied. You can use water on them but I have been using WD-40 which works very well.
Watch stumpy nubs video, he specifically talks about WD-40 and how it reduces the sharpening capability of diamond stones. Very interesting stuff! These some cool science and specs behind it.
Good video Spencer. The two sided diamond stone + strop make perfect sense for jobsite portability. Diamond and water stones are so, so much faster than the Arkansas & man-made oil stones that I used 30 years ago. I’m dubious about Stumpy Nubs - I never see him actually doing anything, he only talks. Two excellent resources I’ve found are 1) Sharpening Supplies in WI. Their customer service has been wonderful about taking the time and effort to answer my questions thoroughly. 2) Rob Cosman is a furniture maker / teacher who has an extensive library of videos on UA-cam. Cosman explains the work as he’s doing it. He has several videos on sharpening; one that comes to mind in particular is ‘30 seconds to Sharp’.
Great video. I have the DMT 10" plates with a holder and got the veritas mk2 deluxe for my chisels and planes. The mk2 holds the right angle of your tools and a nice wide roller to go smoothly over the stones. I to hate sharping and try to hold a perfect angle all the time takes lots of practice and patience, but the mk2 has all my chisels and planes hair shaving sharp and has an adjustment for a micro bevel as well. Great tool to have in the shop. Not a good one to bring to the job site but for the shop its the way to go. I do have the trend credit card dimond stones for router buts and they work very well keeping them nice and sharp.
To save your chisels you should really put a secondary bevel at 30 degrees this way when you sharpen you only have to sharpen that small secondary bevel and you never have to sharpen your primary bevel.
The other beauty part of diamond stones is that they last so long and stay flat. I still have and use mine from the 80's. After so many years of freehand sharpening, I admit that I have to use a honing guide to put back the proper angle on my blades. I'm no pro either, just human. 😒
My sharpening stone came in last week. Try it on one of my damaged schissels and it's working very fast. I did not remove the diamonds of the stone I have to do that. Thanks for the info.
Ha Ha!...the old figure eight. I'm like you, I've never even attempted that. But I'll try anything and everything--Tomek, Makita, Worksharp, diamonds, glass, Japanese, Arkansas, Lourdes--anything! For the construction chisels, check out the belt sander guy on youtube.
You did hit all the spots necessary for getting a quick good sharpening. Your practices come close to a professional woodworker named Paul Sellers. Watch his video on strop use. If you consider putting a second bevel on your chisels, which I think is a good idea, look at Rob Cosman's sharpening of a chisel. But for the quick sharpening of a limited amount of tools to sharpen you have the steps all down.
Actually, using Rob Cosman's secondary bevel makes the job quicker. Lifting the chisel a couple of degrees on the bevel side, makes it so you're not taking off nearly as much metal and get the hair shaving edge in just a few strokes. Rob takes the edge to a much more polished degree, but that's not necessary for the work we're talking about here. I will say though, that I was amazed at how easily the chisel slid through the wood when I did do a fine polish (using a very fine stone). I REALLY appreciate your thoughtful videos - you're advancing the craft and helping others do better work and make a better living.
A chinese-origin (last one I saw) without a real flatness spec (the spec is by inch) and durability is about as good as the $20 8x3 steel hones that come directly from china. The "lapping fluid" is a mix of naptha and mineral oil for about 25 times the cost of each if bought in quantity. I didn't track this video down - youtube recommended it to me. I see comments on razor forums about these being out of flat (those folks are sensitive), and on woodworking forums about these stones losing cutting speed fast. Just my opinion having about 20 different diamond hones from the US, japan and China, but what Trend has mastered is the ability to sell a low-manufacturing cost hone for the price of one made in the US. The fact that it cost more than an atoma home, or the same if you got an atoma wafer and affixed it to the opposite side of a single side atoma hone...it's really baffling. you can make your own "honing fluid" just by getting mineral spirits and naptha - or skip the naptha and just buy kerosene if you don't mind the smell.
I’m an old timer and in my experience it is most common to finish with a “ micro bevel” at the end about 1/32”. I also learned way back that in the absence of a strop, you can use the heel of your hand like the karate kid. 100% as good as leather and you will never misplace it, However, people kinda cringe when they see you do it.
Great lesson from a great teacher. Additionally I carry a set of chiseled plus an extra 1/2" and 3/4" chisel. On the jobsite sometimes I am working on old boards too. I first test the waters with my beater chisels just in case I find a nail hidden just below the surface. If all is clear I just spent a few seconds grabbing the ole beater. If I am using my good set I am kicking myself for nicking up a chisel. In either case sharpening is in my future but, I just feel better not eroding the edge of my favorites.
Spencer, I sent a link to a sharpening jig for the chisels and planer blades to hold the angle. I don't know where it went, have you seen or used one ever?
Hi spencer, trend are great. For mobile sharpening I purchased the Trend fast track. It’s awesome. It comes with 2 diamond plates but you can purchase finer ones if you need them. It’s a very quick system. Like you, I don’t enjoy sharpening, so found it a life saver. With the trend stones you are using, have you tried a honing wheel to clamp onto your chisels. It allows you to adjust for that perfect angle and ultimately gives greater control. On another note, I am visiting the US next month from the UK. As well as Home Depot, can you recommend any other suppliers to pick up some bargains ( tools) ?? Thanks again for your channel👍🏻
@@InsiderCarpentry thanks spencer. Any tools bought in the US are a bargain to us when you compare them to prices in the UK🤣 I will be over in a place called Merritt island in Florida. My son is out there for a year training to be a pilot…. Lucky boy!!
Lie-Nielsen or Stanley Sweetheart 750. I bought old Stanley 750s off of eBay, haven't tried the new ones. The Lie-Nielsens are my favorite and a joy to use. At work, I use #60 Stanleys with plastic handles and steel caps.
Lie-Nielsen and IBS are both really high quality chisels; well machined good steel. But of course, they’re also expensive. The best chisel really depends on what you’re doing. For cutting the mortise for a door hinge, a sharp Stanley chisel from a big box store is just fine. For cutting an exposed mortise and tenon joint, a Lie-Nielsen or IBS chisel is worth its weight in gold.
It’s a shame that the courser sides of “stones” like this don’t stay as course as they are when fresh- with a fair bit of use they are a lot slower cutting. Other than that I like the diamond solution and have been using various brands on and off for 20 odd years.
@@InsiderCarpentry hey man!.. i would think that it would be that ryobis nailer is better, but dewalts everything else (for the most part) is better lol. And id agree
It looked like another overly complex thing that I'd never end up using when I looked at it. I really like the simplicity of just the diamond stone and fluid.
@@InsiderCarpentry I respect your opinion on thinking that it's complicated but it really is not. Perhaps there is a video on here showing just how easy it is. That's why I like it and it is quick for touch ups. Thanks Spencer.
@@davids8493 We use the Work Sharp at the cabinet shop I work in. It is really fast and does a good job. I don't work in the field anymore, but if I did, I would go with the diamond stone for simplicity. We use a bunch of glass discs and different grits of sandpaper. It really needs a cabinet/organizer. Of course, no one has time to build one.
Thanks for your continued support of this channel!!!
Trend Essential Diamond Sharpening Kit - geni.us/A0aeA on Amazon (commissions earned)
Trend Double-Sided Diamond Sharpening Stone, Fine/Coarse, 8 x 3 inch - geni.us/Khnzr on Amazon (commissions earned)
Trend Lapping Fluid - geni.us/HAg4 on Amazon (commissions earned)
STANLEY Sweetheart Chisels Set, 8-Piece - geni.us/kcoRTcI on Amazon (commissions earned)
Stanley Chisel-Set Sweetheart (4-piece) - geni.us/BTRwxb on Amazon (commissions earned)
You only have to flatten the back of the chisel once so take your time and flatten at least the first inch of the back. After that you are repairing the bevel and that can be done quickly.
I'm no expert on sharpening either and I got a Trend diamond sharpening stone, which is like a credit card size. It came free with a router bit set I bought a while ago. I wanted to check up on the right way to use it and I just watched an actual Trend video on it and it said all you need to do with the diamond stone, is just rub the tool a few strokes on the stone, it should only take a few seconds. I don't know if that big stone you have works differently but you don't need to be rubbing your tool continuously for several minutes, like on traditional stones, from what Trend was showing.
Stumpy has some great videos for sharpening. However, for the savants of sharpening try Rob Cosman or Matt Estlea's videos. Diamond stones, water stones, ceramic stones, or lapping film on float glass. Lots of options. I use the Scary Sharp lapping film on float glass system up to 14000 grit. Mirror finishes and with a good honing guide takes maybe 5 min and usually much less to polish the secondary or tertiary bevels. Thanks!
Rob Cosman is a pro! He is very in depth
I keep a beater 1 1/2,and and a decent 2inch for site work.
Best thing I have, is a co-worker who loves to sharpen!
Ha! I bought the Trend diamond stone, fluid and (expensive) honing guide also after watching James on Stumpy Nubs. I have only got three chisels and some kitchen knives to hone. I don’t care tho’ cos these will last me a lifetime👍 I didn’t get a strop included with mine tho’.
I have diamond stones. But personally each time I sharpen my things, i choose sand paper on a simple thick glass.....effective, cheap and fast.
I use diamonds when i go in the woods.....
So I just ordered the kit, i understand the frustration with Norton stones they don't stay flat and u have to constantly redress them.
I agree with you 100%
I don’t want to spend hours sharpening my chisels.
I have about 6 3/4” chisel that’s I use on sit when I get back to my shop I take about 30 seconds on the electric grinder set to the right angle and I just touch them up and I’m done. I take the burr off by running the chisel
With the grain of a scrape piece of wood
I've used the wet sandpaper on a piece of two ply window but I hardly use them so they're still Japanese Sharp.
FYI Stumpy only seems to recommend products that he was given and/or paid to talk about and/or given commission from sales.
For chisels I always break out the plate glass with sandpaper glued to it. More work area, but the Trend stone is great to keep in the van for some dressup sharpening.
I have a 2 sided diamond plate that’s very similar and I glued a cheap piece of leather to some plywood. Only use the rough side of the plate if I have a damaged edge to fix. If it’s just to sharpen I slide the bevel side down 6-10 times, one swipe with the flat side down to take off the burr. Then repeat with the the strop. Takes 45 seconds to a minute and the tool is back to razor sharp. Makes sharpening super easy and convenient. I use windex as lapping fluid and works great.
Good stuff. 👊 I did notice that the coarser side isn’t necessary for a quick resharpen.
Anyone else get one of these things dished out? I got one new and the center of the 1000 side was dished out about a 64th side to side
Spencer buddy all these years and finally something I know a little about!
I use an 8000 grit to put a touch up edge on. I would use a bevel cradle I call it Lie-Nielsen has a good one. I run German made 2Cherries Chisels.
Then Stanley & Lie planes. I build some high end expensive Tables 6500-7500 oak , hickory , little walnut.
And of course main money is finish work.
Once sharp never let that plane iron or Chisel touch that 300. Just the 1000 or higher.
And just the last 3/8-1/2” of it. Doing the bevel free hand can eventually ruin you 25 degree or 30 degree bevel. The back of mine (3/8” to 1/2) is a mirror finish! No scratches needs to be like a mirror.
My beater chisel is also super sharp and I can cut a 2x4 down with it or cut a quick mortise ?
I keep my water stones in a tray of water (Tupperware container ) 24/7. I went to the granite store and got a 16x14 “ cut square I sharpen on. That way it’s dead flat!
Once your set up boom/bang your done ; everything sharp!
Rob Cosman who is a professional furniture maker has a solid video on this!!
Three cheers for Rob Cosman and the quality of his videos.
I do have one of those, and while it is a good quality tool, mine is not dead flat. The lapping plates from DMT are a couple of steps above this, and they are dead flat. The Trend lapping fluid is pretty good.
When I was 19 and right out of high school in 1975 I went to work for a medium size GC. Another guy with the same background started the same day. An old carpenter had his choice of the other guy or me. He wanted to see our hand tools and saw horses. He picked me because I had a sharpening stone in my wooden hand box. Back then carpenters used a wooden tool box.
Outstanding video tutorial! I have never mastered the art of sharpening and usually work with dull tools. After watching your video I am going to order this kit and get better results. Thank you for sharing!
Oh nice, your affiliate link happened to have 30% off when I clicked it. Ended up getting the stone for 64$. That's a smoking deal. Thanks!
Nice!!! 👊
Added to my Amazon cart for later. I'll get it eventually.
Have you tried the worksharp 3000? I also hate sharpening, but with the worksharp I can leave a helper to sharpen all the tools in the shop. With next to no training he can get them all to a good edge in no time. Fast and easy to use. It was a great investment.
Yes, when woodworkers have to make a living executing their craft they need to be able to redress and sharpen quickly. I have not understood the amount of time people spend in sharpening. I could never afford it and nor do I enjoy it enough!
The key is to give them a few quick licks as soon as they start to go dull. If you wait too long then it becomes a time consuming operation to rehone them. Then we spend too much time to get them perfect. 95% of the way then a tune up when it’s 80% will save a huge amount of time versus going 100% then rehoning when it’s 50%.
When you run out of the lapping fluid get some cheap window cleaner spray does the same as the lapping fluid.
In most cases yes, but their fluid has some rust preventatives in them. But if you dry it well it shouldnt be a problem
Excellent!
There are those who worship sharpening and there are those who use their tools to make a living. Great video! -Phil
Different types of work require different levels of sharpening. As a retired carpenter transitioning into furniture making, I can attest to the difference in detail and tool sharpening between the two trades.
Let’s not be so black and white about different woodworkers’ needs for sharp cutting tools.
Everybody is right as long as you end up sharp. Definitely flatten your back. I prefer to hollow grind the bevel. The main reason for this is I always add a microbevel of about five degrees to the main bevel. The hollow grind allows you to touch up your microbevel more times without regrinding the main bevel. More work at first but when you're on the job or even just in the shop a couple of quick passes on a stone (unless you have really damaged it) and you're right back to sharp.
I bought a similar product called Dia-Sharp. Their product has the diamonds continuously distributed on the plate rather than in dots. I don't know if it makes much difference. I have been very satisfied. You can use water on them but I have been using WD-40 which works very well.
Watch stumpy nubs video, he specifically talks about WD-40 and how it reduces the sharpening capability of diamond stones. Very interesting stuff! These some cool science and specs behind it.
I love sharpening . . . Knives that is. Chisels I just want them done 😆. My diamond plate is great.
Good video Spencer. The two sided diamond stone + strop make perfect sense for jobsite portability. Diamond and water stones are so, so much faster than the Arkansas & man-made oil stones that I used 30 years ago.
I’m dubious about Stumpy Nubs - I never see him actually doing anything, he only talks. Two excellent resources I’ve found are 1) Sharpening Supplies in WI. Their customer service has been wonderful about taking the time and effort to answer my questions thoroughly. 2) Rob Cosman is a furniture maker / teacher who has an extensive library of videos on UA-cam. Cosman explains the work as he’s doing it. He has several videos on sharpening; one that comes to mind in particular is ‘30 seconds to Sharp’.
Hi Lewis does it matter what side of the leather you use
Don’t bother doing the figure eight motion. You will get better results back & forth. The figure eight thing is old school nonsense.
Great video. I have the DMT 10" plates with a holder and got the veritas mk2 deluxe for my chisels and planes. The mk2 holds the right angle of your tools and a nice wide roller to go smoothly over the stones. I to hate sharping and try to hold a perfect angle all the time takes lots of practice and patience, but the mk2 has all my chisels and planes hair shaving sharp and has an adjustment for a micro bevel as well. Great tool to have in the shop. Not a good one to bring to the job site but for the shop its the way to go. I do have the trend credit card dimond stones for router buts and they work very well keeping them nice and sharp.
To save your chisels you should really put a secondary bevel at 30 degrees this way when you sharpen you only have to sharpen that small secondary bevel and you never have to sharpen your primary bevel.
World class enough for me :-) Thanks for this, too many sharpening videos go into too much detail, yours is exactly what i needed.
In 2022 Trend no longer give you the leather and green compound with the plate….You have to buy them as a 25 bucks extra😒
For me I would throw them out when they got dull lol but ya something I wish I did I've seen carpenters with sharp chisels and thier nice
The other beauty part of diamond stones is that they last so long and stay flat. I still have and use mine from the 80's. After so many years of freehand sharpening, I admit that I have to use a honing guide to put back the proper angle on my blades. I'm no pro either, just human. 😒
You grind at 30% and horn at 25 .and your ment to do the back after you sharpen it .Well that's wot they teach at collage 😊.Good stone though
My sharpening stone came in last week. Try it on one of my damaged schissels and it's working very fast. I did not remove the diamonds of the stone I have to do that. Thanks for the info.
Glue a flat section of magnetic material to the back of the strop and it will then attach to your Trend stone and not slip.
Very good
Ha Ha!...the old figure eight. I'm like you, I've never even attempted that. But I'll try anything and everything--Tomek, Makita, Worksharp, diamonds, glass, Japanese, Arkansas, Lourdes--anything! For the construction chisels, check out the belt sander guy on youtube.
Don’t go Arkansas, they cut far too slowly.
Thanks Spencer great advice mate I’ll give that ago 👍👍👍👍
Thank you
Sometimes the best explanation of a process is by someone who says they are not a professional. Great video!
Another great video. The Goldilocks level of detail is exactly what I’m looking for. Thanks Spence.
You did hit all the spots necessary for getting a quick good sharpening. Your practices come close to a professional woodworker named Paul Sellers. Watch his video on strop use. If you consider putting a second bevel on your chisels, which I think is a good idea, look at Rob Cosman's sharpening of a chisel. But for the quick sharpening of a limited amount of tools to sharpen you have the steps all down.
Actually, using Rob Cosman's secondary bevel makes the job quicker. Lifting the chisel a couple of degrees on the bevel side, makes it so you're not taking off nearly as much metal and get the hair shaving edge in just a few strokes. Rob takes the edge to a much more polished degree, but that's not necessary for the work we're talking about here. I will say though, that I was amazed at how easily the chisel slid through the wood when I did do a fine polish (using a very fine stone). I REALLY appreciate your thoughtful videos - you're advancing the craft and helping others do better work and make a better living.
nice
A chinese-origin (last one I saw) without a real flatness spec (the spec is by inch) and durability is about as good as the $20 8x3 steel hones that come directly from china.
The "lapping fluid" is a mix of naptha and mineral oil for about 25 times the cost of each if bought in quantity.
I didn't track this video down - youtube recommended it to me. I see comments on razor forums about these being out of flat (those folks are sensitive), and on woodworking forums about these stones losing cutting speed fast. Just my opinion having about 20 different diamond hones from the US, japan and China, but what Trend has mastered is the ability to sell a low-manufacturing cost hone for the price of one made in the US. The fact that it cost more than an atoma home, or the same if you got an atoma wafer and affixed it to the opposite side of a single side atoma hone...it's really baffling.
you can make your own "honing fluid" just by getting mineral spirits and naptha - or skip the naptha and just buy kerosene if you don't mind the smell.
I bought this trend stone to flatten my shapton glass stones and it was anything but flat. Couldn’t us it. Buyer beware.
DMT makes an excellent hyper flat lapping diamond stone - it’s called Dia-Flat 95.
I don’t know what the point of this video was but I spent over $300 before it was over 😀.
Thanks again for the great content.
Fair enough!
Shit going to have to sharpen me chisels now
Great video..been looking at options…carrying boxes of stones and slurry around or even in the shop seems ridiculous, this is the perfect compromise.
I thought so to. I was tickled with the product.
I’m an old timer and in my experience it is most common to finish with a “ micro bevel” at the end about 1/32”. I also learned way back that in the absence of a strop, you can use the heel of your hand like the karate kid. 100% as good as leather and you will never misplace it, However, people kinda cringe when they see you do it.
Great video man! Thanks
Great lesson from a great teacher. Additionally I carry a set of chiseled plus an extra 1/2" and 3/4" chisel. On the jobsite sometimes I am working on old boards too. I first test the waters with my beater chisels just in case I find a nail hidden just below the surface. If all is clear I just spent a few seconds grabbing the ole beater. If I am using my good set I am kicking myself for nicking up a chisel.
In either case sharpening is in my future but, I just feel better not eroding the edge of my favorites.
I carry the courageous sacrificial chisel too. It's also the perfect way to appease those who ask to borrow... without coming across as a total jerk.
Hi from Easton Maryland.Thank you for your humble master class.
Same from Centerville MD
*WELCOME BACK*
Spencer, I sent a link to a sharpening jig for the chisels and planer blades to hold the angle. I don't know where it went, have you seen or used one ever?
Been meaning to get something for sharpening, ill have to add this to the list. What do you think of the Ryboi nailer?
That poor Grizzly will never get plugged in again 😂
It's as good as trash.
How do you clean the stone off after sharpening?
Kick ass
Thank you
Hi.
I hit the like before I wash the video
You’re a gentlemen and a scholar. 👊👊🤘
What about the 30° bevel on top of the 25?
The results are excellent - I'm impressed a lot. I like the simplicity.
Simple is so important to me when it comes to sharpening. If it’s not simple I simply don’t do it.
@@InsiderCarpentry I see what you did there🤣😂
Hi spencer, trend are great. For mobile sharpening I purchased the Trend fast track. It’s awesome. It comes with 2 diamond plates but you can purchase finer ones if you need them. It’s a very quick system. Like you, I don’t enjoy sharpening, so found it a life saver.
With the trend stones you are using, have you tried a honing wheel to clamp onto your chisels. It allows you to adjust for that perfect angle and ultimately gives greater control.
On another note, I am visiting the US next month from the UK. As well as Home Depot, can you recommend any other suppliers to pick up some bargains ( tools) ??
Thanks again for your channel👍🏻
I don't know about bargain tools... but I would say Home Depot, Rural King, Menards, and Lowes are my main tool stores.
@@InsiderCarpentry thanks spencer. Any tools bought in the US are a bargain to us when you compare them to prices in the UK🤣
I will be over in a place called Merritt island in Florida. My son is out there for a year training to be a pilot…. Lucky boy!!
Anyone have a recommendation for high quality chisels?
I like the Stanley sweetheart chisels. Links in the top comment or video description.
I’ve heard some good comments on the Narex line from Europe. Stumpy Nubs likes them as well as the Sweethearts. Various sets available on line.
Barr chisels from us, and Japanese chisels from ebay
Lie-Nielsen or Stanley Sweetheart 750. I bought old Stanley 750s off of eBay, haven't tried the new ones. The Lie-Nielsens are my favorite and a joy to use. At work, I use #60 Stanleys with plastic handles and steel caps.
Lie-Nielsen and IBS are both really high quality chisels; well machined good steel. But of course, they’re also expensive.
The best chisel really depends on what you’re doing. For cutting the mortise for a door hinge, a sharp Stanley chisel from a big box store is just fine. For cutting an exposed mortise and tenon joint, a Lie-Nielsen or IBS chisel is worth its weight in gold.
It’s a shame that the courser sides of “stones” like this don’t stay as course as they are when fresh- with a fair bit of use they are a lot slower cutting. Other than that I like the diamond solution and have been using various brands on and off for 20 odd years.
I think hes making a statement with the ryobi nailer with a dewalt battery on it lol
What statement would that be?
@@InsiderCarpentry hey man!.. i would think that it would be that ryobis nailer is better, but dewalts everything else (for the most part) is better lol. And id agree
@@InsiderCarpentry even though that knew angled handle, i think its a 15g dewalt makes now looks interesting
Hi Spencer, have you looked at the Work Sharp machine? Relatively priced and super easy to use. They engineered it well and it's much faster.
It looked like another overly complex thing that I'd never end up using when I looked at it. I really like the simplicity of just the diamond stone and fluid.
@@InsiderCarpentry I respect your opinion on thinking that it's complicated but it really is not. Perhaps there is a video on here showing just how easy it is. That's why I like it and it is quick for touch ups. Thanks Spencer.
@@davids8493 We use the Work Sharp at the cabinet shop I work in. It is really fast and does a good job. I don't work in the field anymore, but if I did, I would go with the diamond stone for simplicity. We use a bunch of glass discs and different grits of sandpaper. It really needs a cabinet/organizer. Of course, no one has time to build one.