This is a terrific video! I have been doing this entire process in my mind, but was never sure if it would work using the Yankee tank. You have confirmed that it works very well. I shoot 1:33 (4:3) format, so tank scratches are definitely not an issue for me. I have a 16mm contact printer as well, so this will also be a way to test it and my technique. Keep up the fine work!
Thanks! A contact printer? Wow that would take the process to the next level. I use this method to test film and cameras, but if you are patient you can get usable things without spending a lot of money. Thanks for watching.
@@TheCinematographyLab It is indeed inspiring. I always did it the slow way (using expired film which I got for free or dirt cheap to test the camera), but your way is the most logical and of course the best for camera-only formats such as Max8, Super- and Ultra-16.
@@truefilm6991 Thanks Christian! I think this method is a great way to test cameras and to test film stocks as well. You may use it to test you exposure skills, limits, ideas, lighting setups, ratios and the important part is you are getting repeatable results, something you don't get with expired film. When it comes to Super 8 cameras I don't mind sending it to the lab because I can easily test 5 different cameras with one cartridge. I'm going to make a video soon using Kodak Vision 3 film with a still photography camera to test different situations like filtration, under and over exposure, lenses, latitude (DR) and other tests. That's another economical way to test what you can do with a film stock without spending a lot of money and without shooting 100ft of film.
You are the man when it comes to film and chemistry! What I explained here is kind of obvious for people who understand film and how cameras work. Actually this is what they do in productions all the time and for that reason "short ends" exist, but it's not that obvious for less experienced people who may feel like they have to spend $150 just to test a camera and for that reason I wanted to put this out there. Reversal is great and projecting an image is probably one of the best ways to judge the actual condition of the lens, film and the camera.
Sorry for hijacking your comment section LOL. Here is my first complete edit of my upcoming video. Will do some refinements still. I would like to give you a shout-out in the end, if that is OK with you. I am fully aware that my numbers are conservative, but I don't want beginners to be confused, so I strongly encourage people, repeatedly, to concentrate on the much needed wide angle lenses. Thanks, as always, for your most valuable input and inspiration. Please let me know i9f that's OK with you (last image): ua-cam.com/video/MLijKv2Y36E/v-deo.html
Yes, A Clipper II works fine. I noticed that the Clipper II feels cheaper than the one I have. I tried to use a Clipper II to process Super 8 and the roughness of the plastic didn't help at all. For 16mm it should work just fine.
It's a Vivitar 28mm f2.8. I sold it for $25 on eBay and the person who bought it told me he inspected the lens and seemed like someone messed with the lens (not me) happily he was going to fix it.
This is a terrific video!
I have been doing this entire process in my mind, but was never sure if it would work using the Yankee tank. You have confirmed that it works very well.
I shoot 1:33 (4:3) format, so tank scratches are definitely not an issue for me.
I have a 16mm contact printer as well, so this will also be a way to test it and my technique.
Keep up the fine work!
Thanks!
A contact printer? Wow that would take the process to the next level. I use this method to test film and cameras, but if you are patient you can get usable things without spending a lot of money.
Thanks for watching.
Very usefull info, thanks
😎👍
Very interesting concept. 16mm as a process is very exciting -- a lot of things to experiment with
Excellent information here and lots of practical methodology. Good work Ruben.
Thanks Jon.
Great video, very inspiring!
Thanks TrueFilm!
@@TheCinematographyLab It is indeed inspiring. I always did it the slow way (using expired film which I got for free or dirt cheap to test the camera), but your way is the most logical and of course the best for camera-only formats such as Max8, Super- and Ultra-16.
@@truefilm6991 Thanks Christian! I think this method is a great way to test cameras and to test film stocks as well. You may use it to test you exposure skills, limits, ideas, lighting setups, ratios and the important part is you are getting repeatable results, something you don't get with expired film.
When it comes to Super 8 cameras I don't mind sending it to the lab because I can easily test 5 different cameras with one cartridge.
I'm going to make a video soon using Kodak Vision 3 film with a still photography camera to test different situations like filtration, under and over exposure, lenses, latitude (DR) and other tests. That's another economical way to test what you can do with a film stock without spending a lot of money and without shooting 100ft of film.
I've been testing film and cameras like you do for years. I like to project reversal or print negatives.
You are the man when it comes to film and chemistry! What I explained here is kind of obvious for people who understand film and how cameras work. Actually this is what they do in productions all the time and for that reason "short ends" exist, but it's not that obvious for less experienced people who may feel like they have to spend $150 just to test a camera and for that reason I wanted to put this out there.
Reversal is great and projecting an image is probably one of the best ways to judge the actual condition of the lens, film and the camera.
@@TheCinematographyLab it is great to have a new perspective on the subject
Sorry for hijacking your comment section LOL. Here is my first complete edit of my upcoming video. Will do some refinements still. I would like to give you a shout-out in the end, if that is OK with you. I am fully aware that my numbers are conservative, but I don't want beginners to be confused, so I strongly encourage people, repeatedly, to concentrate on the much needed wide angle lenses. Thanks, as always, for your most valuable input and inspiration. Please let me know i9f that's OK with you (last image): ua-cam.com/video/MLijKv2Y36E/v-deo.html
Would a Yankee Clipper II work as well? eBay seems to only have those models at the moment.
Yes, A Clipper II works fine. I noticed that the Clipper II feels cheaper than the one I have. I tried to use a Clipper II to process Super 8 and the roughness of the plastic didn't help at all. For 16mm it should work just fine.
@@TheCinematographyLab Wonderful!
What lens is on the K3 here
It's a Vivitar 28mm f2.8. I sold it for $25 on eBay and the person who bought it told me he inspected the lens and seemed like someone messed with the lens (not me) happily he was going to fix it.
@@TheCinematographyLab ah thank you
What chemicals do you use for this?
I use Kodak D-76 developer and Kodak fixer, but you can use other products as well.