Rare E7 Onsight for Jim Pope

Jim Pope has made the first repeat of James Taylor's Olwen (E9 6c) E9 6c at Rhoscolyn and made a rare - and only the second British - onsight of the classic Strawberries (E7 6b) at Tremadog, (Craig Bwlch y Moch), both in North Wales.
#tradclimbing #rockclimbing
Intro 00:00
The history of Strawberries
Jim's ascent 04:09
Olwen E9 6c 05:27

[@climbermacleod]

If 6 was 9 is pretty standard E9 I would say. Just one hard move towards the top where you are reliant on the crap peg and hook. But there is a good rest just before where you could lower off if you felt pumped. So you only go for it if you feel fresh, and if you feel fresh it's not too bad a move.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Sorry Dave, missed this comment in/amongst the holidays. I described If 6 Was 9 as 'benchmark E9', which I'd meant as standard E9 (i.e. neither soft for the grade, nor hard for the grade, but probably quite a good reference point for the grade). You're description of it makes it sound alright, but I suspect the reality is somewhat more harrowing 😱

[@aidanscarffe5256]

Great climbing by Jim

[@Ratchet944]

At 5.13 i think you meant less effort but could be wrong

[@BranwellHaworth]

Technically, I guess that red point did exist in 1980 as Rotpunkt but only in the Frankenjura

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Exactly. It took quite a while for it to be adopted within the UK. There's probably a whole article to be written on why, but I'll save that for another day...

[@lorenze22]

Its a flash of Strawberries, get it right for f sake, well done to Jim though.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

To quote Jim from the interview we did with him earlier in the week: “I knew from the guidebook description that there was a hard move transitioning between the cracks, and that it didn't ease off after there! I didn't know anything about the gear, and massively over-racked for the route. I think I placed four pieces, but carried a Gogarth rack”. Obviously it depends on how pure you take the onsight, but as far as most people are concerned - that’s an onsight ascent.

[@lorenze22]

@@ukclimbingofficial if he didn't watch a vid he must be the only guy who hasn't, the transition between the cracks is the only sticking move, forewarned is enough.

[@lorenze22]

Your historical remarks are well off as well! Ron basically top roped the whole thing, Nobody really accepted this ascent. I think the first ascent was done by Johny Woodward a while later, Ethics were very firmly in place in the 80s for some, they were just interpreted and manipulated by people. I respect Ron for many of his great ascents but not that day, I was on the stance with Liegh Maginley, and Ron descended on rap, placed all the gear, and with his ropes clipped into the last oned he then it without falling. Well he would wouldn't he!

[@ukclimbingofficial]

What you’ve described is exactly what I said. I highlighted that he had all the gear placed on ab, and his ropes clipped into the highest gear, so where am I “well off” - it sounds like we’re in complete agreement.
Considering nobody accepted it, it’s cited as being his route in each and every guidebook to the area. Unfortunately I don’t have Leigh’s Tremadog guide to hand, but in every edition that’s come since it’s Ron that’s attributed with the first ascent.

[@lorenze22]

the difference in what you said and what I said is a whole world of difference, you just echo the acceptance and I contradict the acceptance. As to your further remark about the guide books accepting the route as done by Ron, the editors were all told what to write, as you are often told what to say, and then obviously there is an alternative narrative or alternate truth. Now then take note, nobody really accepted this accent, it does not matter what the CC guides say, it matters what happened, and by your own description , Ron didn't lead it, he led 10 foot at the top.@@ukclimbingofficial

[@paulrhodesquinn]

@@lorenze22Stevie Haston - what a legend! I’m a mate of Gabe Reagan’s. Big fan of yours too. Really good to hear the real story of the first ascent after all these years! Thanks Stevie and thanks for the inspiration.

[@lorenze22]

@@paulrhodesquinn any friend of Gabes is a friend of mine, I thought it was a missed opportunity to to actually state the truth for once, and of course all they did was muddy the waters by saying we didn't know what ethics were! What an insult, one of the things that kept good climbers back were the often rigid ethics of those times! Most climbers who knew the true story were appalled and lost faith in the Climbers Club and the Climbing Mags, it was actually an important event which caused an us and them feeling.