How to Fix a Roof Leak in Asphalt Shingle Roofing
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
- This roofing video pertains to repairing a section of roof in asphalt shingles.
Another video at another channel on the same topic and task.
Practical Roofing Concepts:
How to Fix Roof Leak in Asphalt Shingles
• How to Fix Roof Leak i...
There is another video at Project Bolony • How to remove and repl... that goes into removing and replacing shingles.
:34 - Explanation of what is going on
1:45 - Tools and materials
2:30 - Getting started - finding center of the action
7:17 - Lifing tabs
9:45 - checking shingles
10:39 - applying roofing cement
15:05 - checking shingles above
16:23 - Applying roofing cement on more shingles
20:20 - Applying roofing cement on last two rows
22:05 - final comments
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I like this roofer. His video focuses on the job, instead on videoing himself.
If you located the leak in the attic, just drive a nail up through the roof to find it outside. Problem with some roof leaks though, they have a tendency to hide and trail off in different directions. That's where I see your methodical method to come into play. Good video.
Also, I too use cinders in the gutters to hide cement drips and oozes. Hides it well.
Good info. I need to do this soon. I have a small leak I haven't been able to pinpoint.
Keep after it.
Excellent information, used your technique and work like a champ, no more leak. Thanks
Thanks! I have a leak in a rental home and it should be somewhat easy to find cause I can climb into the attic and should see a wet spot on the roof deck just above the wet spot on the bedroom ceiling’s wet spot! At least I’ll have a good starting spot!!!
Thanks! You’re the man!
Barry
I just got an estimate for $7,500 for replacing an 18 year old roof. I noticed 4 minor leaks in my attic from all the rain we're having this year. I WILL do as you say in your video. I now have the knowledge to repair (thank you) and hopefully will save $$$.
***** Remember that you still may need a new roof eventually, this may have just postponed it, or gotten you out of emergency status and into more of a planning status. Thank you!
Great Video! My roof started leaking a small spot last night. I will be using your method tomorrow morning in hopes of fixing my leak!
I like this video and the technique a lot . I use a grout brush to clean any dirt and debris from under the shingle before applying sealer . Flexseal works great for spraying up under a shingle and covering nails . Followed with roofing tar along the edge from a caulking gun .
People could save themselves a lot of trouble and money by doing a roof inspection at least once a year and sealing down shingles . Thanks for this video & the tips .
I thought flexseal was too flammable for roof repairs
Helpful video thanks for sharing. getting ready for dorian. Had some tree trimmers out today and they were on my roof and caused a leak.
Thank you sir for this educational video, very helpful
Thanks ,, Very informative ,, detailed and good info .
Good job! I had same problem I did the same thing never had water lick anymore.
Great video, thank you.
very very good instruction.
easy to follow. thanks
Saved me a lot of money! Thanks!
Great advice.
Thanks, just what I need.
nice video. Very thorough
Well done. I like the methodical approach. As to the comments of "too long", so what. That's what the slider bar at the bottom is for if you feel it doesn't apply or you have the attention span of a fruitfly, LoL! Came home to a leak over the front porch yesterday. There is a valley between the garage roof and that portion of the house's front slope. Checked the garage attic and you could see it was coming in from above the entryway portion of the main roof, but outside the house so it wasn't an immediate danger. It will have to be fixed and later today, but now I've got to get into the attic and inspect the rest of the roof just in case.
Thank you! Good Luck.
Some of the best info he gives is during the time he's not physically working on something. Like getting some granules off the gutter to cover adhesive drips; check your shoes before going back into the house (save your marriage).
i agree, great advice
Bang up job! Loved the fast forward sound effects too - nice touch. Now... if I could just get the courage to go up there and try this out.
Thank you so much for your time and informations!!!
You are so welcome!
Thanks for the video, my friend. It was not too long and seems to contain just the right approach.
Very Good Info. I woke up this morning to a leak in the sheetrock above the back door. It rained pretty hard last night. My gutters were full of oak leaves and acorns. I cleaned out the gutters at 05:15AM in the pouring rain. I thought maybe the water was lapping over the gutter into the house. As soon as it dries out I will do your procedure on the roof shingles. Any suggestions on how to make the water spot on the sheetrock disappear before repainting? Thanks again for the great information.
Very good video.
Thank you so much! simple
Glad it helped!
Thanks - great video
tonyswhirl Thank you!
Thank you 🙏
Thank you so much
well done
Ty now I know how to repair my roof.
...really appreciate Bro
I also like to utilize the margin trowel for roof cement.
It seems to be the best tool and can be wiped off and reused over and over and without getting it on you, that much.
Very informative. Thank you!
Good video. Thank you
Now I see how to fix leak, but, I think I will try it with my shoes tied.
Thank you.
dave oliver That is probably best!
Very informative video! Can you use this shingle cementing technique on architectural shingles or does it only work on single sheet 3 tab shingles?
Yes you can! It's just like one long tab.
Never fails. Cold wet (especially rainy) Illinois days always brings surprises like this.
Can this be done in late October / late March ((my siblings normal "call brother for help" months))? I'm assuming yes.
Better when it is cool not necessarily freezing as the shingles may be even more brittle. This repair is in South Florida so when I say cool I mean not hot. Up North you may have better luck as the day warms up from freezing weather. Good Luck
Well, we had a 4-day warm spell ((aka: Indian Summer)) here back on Friday 21 - Tuesday 25. This gave me a reasonable amount of time to get the "work" done.
Shingles were quite stiff..... even at 3Pm with an air temperature of 78-degrees and the shingles themselves feeling warm but not hot. But..... I was able to pull them up high enough to get the trowel underneath and apply the tar-sealant. Figure roughly 1/8" thick average.
Saw plenty of rusty nails...... couldn't get the shingles up enough to use a hammer to whack them down. Oh well..... hopefully there's enough sealant to prevent leaking for about 6-8yrs...... I need time to save $$$'s for a new roof. Or win the Powerball / Mega Millions lottery.
Would it make more sense to work from the top to the bottom so you don't walk in the cement that you just layed? Either way its a great video
Bobby Thom If the area was small enough, yes. My philosophy is finishing like you would if you were laying shingles. This way you don't disturb while you are moving down. It still would prevent stepping in the roofing cement.
Thank you for the compliment!
Going to do this my damn self since roofers what an arm and a leg from what I was estimated at. I have experience working on houses so this does not look bad at all. I also know exactly where the leak is but going to seal the surrounding area as well. Do you nail the shingles back down? That was not clear everything else is detailed
Not exactly, the tabs that I lifted are held down with roofing cement. The nails I put in were only where I accidentally lifted the shingle out of the nail. That is why it is not detailed, the tabs are not nailed. Maybe there is something in these other videos that will clear it up ua-cam.com/play/PLFtl016Y_sMNRDPyIGxtMHhsX3W--0GIo.html
I know that for many shingle manufacturers, scuffing the granules from the shingles voids the warranty. Are there any recommendations for minimizing scuffing of the shingles working on the roof?
The hotter weather will allow more scuffing. The trick is to keep stepping on new shingles while installing. Also you can use a couch cushion or some foam to stand on. Also shifting your weight and not staying too long in one spot. It is an art, but can be done. Mornings are always better, because in the afternoons is where the scuffing occurs more. Especially in the warmer climates.
I think I found the leak in the addict it seemed to be coming in through some nails so I sealed about a 3 foot square. The sealer from home depot was not like the sealer in the video, it was in tubes and clear. After lifting each time I squeezed it in and spread it out. The roof is 10 years old, why would the nail homes start to leak? If it still leaks I assume i just go to a larger area ( my shingles are about 24 inches wide each. any other thoughts?
Oh, Thank You!
+Geoffrey Jerome - The water or leak may not be coming in right at that nail hole. The water may be coming in elsewhere and getting under the roofing system and then coming through the roof deck in that nail hole. Of course, it could be coming in right at that nail as well. Finding that nail would be good. I am not sure about 24" shingles as the shingles we mostly deal with in SW Florida are 36". They may be the same thing, but cut in your situation. If it is asphalt, then they should be able to be sealed (always from underneath - only seal the top as a last resort) The roofing cement will bond the shingles together.
@@ProjectBolony ive got a patio cover with shingle roofing that leaks in spots. Its flat at the beginning before it slopes How will i find that because underneath i have wood plank ceiling and its leaking through there. And should i use flex seal and roll all over roof. ?Thank you
hello I was lifting some shingles and I noticed that a few nails got trough the shingles that might be the leaking? do i have just cover the nails or I have to put new nails next to as well ?
thank you for the video.
+zpta tabo If the nails are loose, then you may want to consider lifting the shingle to put a nail next to the loose one (1" away is good) and then cover both with roofing cement, again lifting the shingle above so the shingle overlaying the nails is covering the roofing cement. You may also be able to lift the shingle and hit the nail with a hammer, then seal with roofing cement. If you can lift the nail with your hand without using tools, then it would be considered loose, if it is still tight, then it can be re-seated.
Good luck!
What is this product exactly? I did freeze frame at 2:11 and see that its Tamko, but not sure which product.
+DukeLaCrosse20 That is TAMKO Q-5 which is flashing cement. This is regular flashing cement or roofing cement or roofing tar (the manufacturers don't call it tar). There are other products that are more designed as an adhesive, the regular roofing cement is entirely waterproof on its own.
www.tamko.com/Cements-Coatings/TAM-PRO/ProfessionalMastics-Cements-SBSAdhesives/Q-5Heavy-BodiedFlashingCement - There are several other products and brands of roofing cement that will do the job as well.
Know once you have shingle that's covering an area how does the water get or go backwards and get under that shingle how does water get or go backwards
Wind for one, and also water wicks when it has little room.
I think I watched that way longer than I needed too. Idk....it'd so sad there is some person that wouldn't think to tap those nails back in b4 applying the cement. Smh. Oh Good Lord! ;) thank you for the informative video. Anything for replacing a couple sheets of singles?
evemito Thank you! Yes here is one that removes and replaces some shingles ua-cam.com/video/VVqtNezgwTo/v-deo.html
Why do you have to pry shingles that are down hard, doesn't that imply a tight seal and no leak? Also will this method work on a double layer shingle roof? i.e. new shingle layer nailed over an old shingle layer?
You have to pry the shingles up so they don't tear. You are wanting to "save" the shingles that you are not taking out so you can install the new shingles to tie in. You can apply some roofing cement to stick them back down. Water does get under the tabs as they stand when applied new. The water gets under about an inch either way from the sidelap of the shingle.It may work but a double layer is sometimes complicated. Just go farther and wider.
thanks
My curious side was hoping to see the actual damage. Good video though 👍👍👍👍
how does a loose nail underneath another shingle leak? if it's covered up?
Water gets under the shingles and as dirt and debris get under the tabs over time, even more water will get under them. If you get a chance, lift up the tabs after it rains and you will see that water gets under them.
I'm wondering, can you use this method when the area has numerous cracks in the shingles?
+TheHelvetican Only if the shingle still comes up as a unit. If it is breaking up then you just have to do what you can. You may be able to patch in some shingles to get you by, but if they are breaking up when you are trying to lift them, time's up.
Man I've scrolled thru a bunch of videos not using Tar and it was bothering me, i'm no roofer but Tar has worked for me too.
It is very common to use roofing cement in Florida. Other locales have different methods that work due to ice buildup, which we do not have to worry about here. Only torrential rain.
@@ProjectBolony Thanks for the video, so if I need to take a damaged one off should I still tar the surface under it? that's what I did last time even though it has the pre set tar on the edge.
When you are going from new to new then you can just leave it be, but when the shingles are old and you "pop" them, the stickum doesn't stick so well. So you are either "sealing" underneath, which you want to do the entire square of the tab so no water gets behind what you do, or you are putting a quarter size dab for the wind uplift. That is what the stickum is for anyway. Hopefully, I answered your question. BTW - You would "seal" damaged shingles (they will get damaged sometimes popping them up).
@@ProjectBolony Yea I figured more tar can't hurt it, I took the damaged one off and tarred under it with that black fiber mesh then added the new pieces, finished it right before it started pouring so I gotta go back and check it when its dry but only few drops are coming in the house hopefully that just the water that got trapped in there during the sealing job.
It's possible just keep after it.
So when you mean seal the hole it means to put in another nail?
Not necessarily. Put a nail near the hole. Unless you have a bigger and fatter nail, it won't seal. So it's best to put a nail near it, then seal the original hole with roofing cement.
It's is raining outside right now. Got into the attic and found 5 different places where water is leaking. I thought about in the morning drilling a hole from inside the attic to the roof so I can replace the shingles on that area. is that the right procedure? Or maybe water actually gets inside the roof by streaming down from some other place not necessarily where I see it leaking inside the attic?
If the drip is coming out of a nail or a hole, then you may have something. If it is coming out of a seam in the wood deck then it may be running from somewhere else. The method in this video will eliminate an area of water getting under the shingles. What I have done in the past is to find something that you can see from the roof and measure from that. Find a pipe, valley, hip, ridge, then trusses are usually 2 ft apart, plywood is 4 ft wide, and you can always measure. Find those spots on the roof and start from there. That is the basis of my video. I pinpointed a spot and then went out from there. Here is a video that goes into locating a spot from the attic then finding on the roof side. ua-cam.com/video/mXKlS2zCJ2g/v-deo.html
Thank you very much. I think that in the 5-6 places the water is coming down exactly from the place where is dripping. I don't see any trail of water, just small wet areas where the leak is visible.
Careful with the drill. Don't make it worse. It may help to get a second person on the roof while you are in the attic.
I changed my mine about drilling I have no room for the drill. Measuring is the only option available. Thank you for the information and advises.
Hi again! I did two patches and now I am keeping my fingers crossed till next rain. Let me ask you something else if I may. I have still another area to fix. It is wider and closer to a valley. So I am approaching very cautiously. I dont see cracks to explain the water coming in at that area but I found that every single shingle is nailed below the tar line (3/8 to 1/2 inches below). Could that explain the leaking?
Thank you very much
Hi all, what is the tool which he used to unattach the shingles ?
We call it a flat bar. I believe it is a Stanley Wonder Bar
Any tips for walking on roof so you don't slip?
Flat footed, sure footed, practice. Keep your weight on your feet. If you're scared, the roof is not the place you want to be.
Gotta try this but my slope is 12degrees how in the hell do I do this without falling off ?
Scaffolding, ladder jacks, roof jacks, harness and rope, etc. Just takes longer and is more dangerous. You may want to consider hiring a roofing contractor.
did it work?
David Kelley Yes.
My not just just roll out tar over the entire roof?
Shingles are a different animal. It would eventually crack and you would then just have a mess and replace would be your only option after that.
If the shingle's seal is not broken, leave it alone. The Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association or ARMA states when sealing a loose tap apply 2 quarter size dabs of roofing asphalt at each corner of the tab. Not gulps of asphalt.
If you are sealing it to keep water out, then 2 quarter size dabs will not do it. If you are trying to keep the tab down so the wind doesn't blow it up, which is what the seal strip is for, then yes. This video is showing how to fix a roof leak, not how to stick the tabs down for wind resistance. The gulps of asphalt or roofing cement are to seal any holes, nails, or seams that are letting water in.
Just seal the whole roof with a clear coat system.
If it were only that easy!
Don't do this its better to take a couple of shingles of with the pry bar and the find the nail if it's and old house and isn't plywood it's mostly a nail that was hammered but didn't stick to the wood only the shingle
what would I do with out youtube praise baby black Jesus raptor.
Consider hiring a professional.....ya too expensive when my husband is on disability. I'll fix it myself thanks
Dude your video is way to long
I know and I will work on that. I like to make sure I get the point across and the basics of what I am doing are understood.
I, for one, I am greatful for this video, you seem to know what you are doing and I have no problem with the length of the video. If someone wants to speed it up, all they have to do is change their youtube settings. My personal opinion!. lol
do you mean too? And no the video is not too long.