BIG problems with the $400 1974 C10 from the auction.
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- #c10 #auction #squarebody
I finally got the title for the 1974 C10 I bought at a farm auction a month or so ago. Decided to give it the once-over, and the truck did not appreciate it.
I’m glad I am not the only one that spends a lot of time fixing something to have it not fixed.
1970 GM: Rebuild the engine in the vehicle
2010 GM: Pull the engine for 3.6L timing chain fiasco
drop the entire front half of the car including engine, trans, front suspension*
Put a 6.2 diesel badge on the tailgate and drive it. Lol
Hang on, doesn't Texas speed performance just send you a new 427 on UA-cam???
The old "low miles, he only drove it to town on the weekends" story.
I meannn it was an auction truck.... soo....
Garage kept, 1 owner creampuff
It gets get them every time!😎
Probably some 20 year old.
Sounds like you got a case of the suck with this engine. Sorry to hear it man, this truck is cool.
_"I was gonna make a video about how I fixed everything, but..."_
I know the feeling.
I have had engines do that that were parked a long time, and found stiff wrist pins. Freed them up, knock gone.
Wrist pin knock has a more hollow sound
I thought all old chevy’s were suppose to sound like that. Just put in some heavier oil, turn the radio up and she’ll go for another 50k lol
lmao..
Fill her up with straight 40 weight till she makes her own inspection hole in block.
Ah a classic case of “I don’t have time or money to rebuild rn”
That is100% a wristpin. Guaranteed.
Edit: also, go scoop a Vortec 3 fiddy from the Yard for $100, it'll be 60+ WHP stronger than the older motors.
The vortec 350s do make awesome power the only 3 problems is he will need a carb intake for vortec heads which is a few hundred bucks and he will need a 1pc rear seal manual flywheel and he will have to put on an electric fuel pump because the vortec blocks dont have the mechanical fuel pump hole.
I agree. I think the tune up brought the wrist pin noise to life. Disconnect one plug wire at a time to figure out which cylinder or cylinders are the problem.
Or...a piece of carbon/junk on the top of a piston and hitting the head, sounds similar to a wrist pin.Happens sometime when changing the spark plugs with an engine that has a lot of carbon build up in the combustion chamber. Sometimes you can get rid of it by running some type carbon cleaner through the engine while running, sometimes the head has to come off and physically chip it off the piston or head. But it still could be a wrist pin/piston cracked etc like you say.
3000 miles on it lmao dude look at the rust do you really think it doesnt have 100,300? Comeon 😂
Clogged or dry oil lifters that possibly cant get oil to all the parts? try seafoam, I have seen it work and get rid of engine knocking, Projectfarm has a whole video on it.
Rod bearings on a 74 auction pickup for $400: Easy, and acceptable.
Rod bearings on a BMW M3 or M5: Not easy and not acceptable.
Exactly!! Lol!
"Sounds like suck"
You should sell shirts with that on it.
The brutal honesty of your show is the best. It's gold! Keep it coming.
That Pittsburgh torque wrench is likely more accurate then the one used on Friday at 4:55 pm when the motor was assembled.
Sounds like a pidton axle to me
100$ junkyard 5.7 vortec, redrill the heads for the older intake.. ohh and you are going to need a new flywheel.. balance is different.. you could even get the serpintine setup at the same time,,,
You can’t redrill the heads because the intake runners are higher on the vortec heads. Just get a summit or kegs manifold or put the old heads on the new motor
If you use the felpro gasket with both patterns it works.. and be careful tightening the bolts(not much metal once you tap it). It works,. Ohh and swap the distributor gear as the roller cam is hardened..it's been done alot yes the ports are taller but it can be made to work.. the other option is use the stock heads it will just have lower compression because of the combustion chambers ..
Hey if that thing is bunk, look for a wrecked colorado and take the 5 or 6 cyl atlas out of that and cram it in. Or dont, either way still a cool truck.
atlas swap everything!
One time I was delivering a pizza, standing there in front of the customer with my car idling right behind me, when out of the blue, the engine started making a sound almost just like that. My heart sank, and the customer was looking at me like, "man it sucks to be you..."
When I got back in the car, I drove it around the corner where I could pop the hood, and was relieved as hell to see that it was just a frayed end hanging off of the fan belt, and it was striking some obstruction like the shroud or the radiator hose. About two or three seconds of knife work fixed that until I could get a new belt.
I like how you call it like it is
Using so much brake clean as if u get it for free.
Asap its autozone brand. What are you loaded goose ? You too good for Walmart $1.94 ones
You don't buy the cans you get it as fluid and then pressurize it.
Sounds like a wrist pin to me i'll bet ya that's what it is because rod knocks start off light and then get louder with time wrist pin will start knocking right away good thing you did not drive it because it would let go and destroy the block and it's a 4 bolt block it's worth fixing
Might be a different sound, but I had a timing chain make noise on a 71 350 when it hit the timing cover when the nylon gear wore out.
He could physically move the rod caps by hand .
Well that sucks. On a bright note I'm now interested much like other viewers I bet.
It could be bad main bearings
I've heard that noise on a 350 before and it was a spun cam bearing.
Are you sure it's not just self identifying as a diesel?
I immediately said to myself "that is NOT a low mileage truck, but what do I know?" Seems like I do know something after all!
I have a 74 C20, it's rusty as hell, the bed floor looks like swiss cheese, holes in the floorboard and caked up grease all over the engine cradle and it only has 30,000 on it.
@@stevew270 You sure of that or you're just in denial of a bad purchase?
Definitely sounds like some form of piston knock, it might also be that the pistons are hitting the sides of the block, but I’m thinking you’re right with the wrist pins/ out of round con rod. It might also have stretched bolts in the rods
Me and honestly seems like the piston cylinder is might be oblong in the bottom of the cylinder I ran into that problem with every vortex engine
oh
dafuq is a "vortex" engine? Do you even English?
What about the fuel pump push rod ?
This type of shit it why I love this channel.
whats the end play like in the crankshaft ? thrust bearings take a pounding with a standard transmission ..
30$ bearings and 10 cans of brake cleaner 😂
I had the original engine in my '67 Camaro sounding like this. It was a piston problem. I took the engine apart, found a piece of piston skirt laying down in the oil pan. Ended up being the core for crate engine that replaced it. I didn't want to bother with it, once they start ticking, that solid metal hard type, time to do a rebuild or replacement.
The rod and journal cheeks are smoked. So a bearing will never fix it
Oversized bearings
I know that but I also know you can get oversized bearings witch can take up the gap I mean you'd have to have the crank properly machined to take the oversized bearings
Nah , fleet mechanics have been putting in +0.001 , +0.002 , and +0.003 as needed with nothing but Emory cloth polish for years , and the motors have gone 25,000 more miles !
Doesn't need machining unless you can catch a fingernail in it - grab the Emory & POLISH .
The rod face and journal face hold the oil pressure. not the bearing, all the bearing does is set the running surface journal surface clearance to bearing face AKA oil clearance
Well a least you get some more content to post out of it so..
Bummer. The surprise twist that nobody wanted!
On one of my small block's I had the pivot pin in the fuel pump wallow its way out of the fuel pump casting, made a noise that sounded like either valvetrain or bottom end. Quick thing to check and see.
Love the channel it’s the only American one that’s as good as the Aussies
I beg to differ, Vice Grip Garage is just as good, only Derek smiles once in a while. I love em both.
@@merqury5 vice grip garage and cletus and this are the top 3
@@RattleTrapGarage agreed
Fired up and start pulling one spark plug off a Time pull it off put it back on you'll find out where the wrist pins at just saying from experience
That sucks
...my harbor freight impact - er, I mean, *torque wrench*
Rear end oil / engine oil mix no more noise, definitely wrist pins off the connecting rods slapping away. You fixed the tightness at the bottom (bearing) but the pistons are probably being thrown around
Holley carb? Single hole rochester adaptor? Centre bolt hasn't fallen out of the throttle baseplate and lodged in the top of a piston has it.
just an fyi not that it matters or any one cares but the tang isn't what keeps the bearing from spinning, it simply locates the bearing. bearing crush from torqueing the cap is what keeps the bearing from spinning.
that truck looks rather good cosmetically for it being 46 years old usually a vehicle was cared well for thruout its life if it looks good cosmetically
Crate 350 for $1K from Jegs and stop wasting your time. Been down that road.
Loose flywheel bolts can mimick a knock, but im guessing youd have found that
Hey bud I have a good 03 chevy silverado. Good running ls in it. Whole truck $500. Also have a 355 race motor
Subd to your chanel
Personally, I'd have shoved some 80W/90 in the pan & sent it lol
Cool video! keep going we all want to see what was the problem. Don't trust those harbor freight torque wrenches I check mine against an old bean wrench and its way off.
that took a long time to build oil pressure, core issue excessive clearance in oil pump?
Is it pumping oil good maybe the oil pump shaft is broke
Situations such as these do indeed blow ball sweat, however, it makes for excellent content. I really enjoy watching this and I am sure many others do too. Thanks for the awesome infotainment. Good work :)
prime example of "low miles" not always meaning anything
That's why I think cars should also have engine hour gauges
This
@@hopingforthebest1.9 Yes, mechanical ones. And scrap those damned electronic odometers! They suck when you're looking over a potential donor car at the junkyard, and you want to know how many miles are on it.
Any chance something went down the intake? My old man had an engine make that exact noise, it was a 3/8 nut stuck to the top of the piston.
Had a 350 that made the same noise and everyone was telling me all kinds of things that it was , turned out it was a broken skirt broken slapping inside the cylinder
fuel pump rod?
I bet it's a wrist pin. I'll guess cylinder 2.
it needs a 5.3 swap, My 86 K30 has a 5.3 and my only regrets is not doing it sooner.
That's sucks I just pulled my motor because it sounds like yours I couldn't find nothing wrong with it I still don't know what it is
Any Who,, Love these old trucks.
I would check the fuel pump, when the spring behind the pump arm breaks the pump sounds like a rod knocking.
An automotive stethoscope helps narrow down where the sound is coming from if you have one.
Somebody dropped something down the carburetor. It’s a bolt layin on top of the piston smashing into the head.
Not exactly unheard of??!!
Sorry for your luck man, had a similar thing happen, it ate my crank before we figured out what was going on. Hope you're able to save it. Love the videos.
Sucks about that knock. Glad that you're going to invest the time into fixing it. Can't let that heater core go to waste, after all. Hope it's just a wrist pin like you suspect.
thats a good sounding song that starts around 8:30 !
On a positive at least you are not doing it on your back. In the snow. Uncle Rodney is not my favourite relative....
Do a cylinder kill test, to at least find out what cylinder it is...
Wow am i ever early for this video
Some times if the main bearings get bad the crank will clunk up and down, I would also check the timing chain and gears and see if the gear is the factory timing set.
Mental note, don’t let you tune my small block! 😆 did the oil pump go bad? I’ve had that happen on a small block before
That's some good instrumental music for installing new rod bearings. Looking forward to future detective work to discover what's wrong.
Stories that involve Delaware and lying...
Love your video, sorry for the bad luck here.. so what do u think caused this, I know it has really low miles, is it from sitting all those years ? Thx
i've heard of the "aerosol overhaul" and the "craigslist rebuild" but what's this one called?
60 weight oil and send it
Thanks for making this video, showing the basic way to change bearings , without using thousands of dollars worth of special tools, gauges etc.. Sorry that wasn't the noise.
Well I'll be dipped
Ol mustard
Sounds like a bent rod or couple clattering... Uncle rod came a knocking lol
Damn. I'm excited to see what happened but not excited that you had to go through this debacle.
Take it outside, rev it until it pops, plug in something else.
I second this motion.
sounds like a carbon knock on top of the piston. good luck with this truck.
I’ve done this a few times....once on an old Nissan, once on a couple old small blocks. I don’t know if you covered this but if you look on the backside of the bearings they should say....STD.
Or .010...or ??
Of course as you know this will tell you the size of the bearing, and whether the crank has been turned before.
If you get the right ones....plastigage? Yeah...exactly...why? It’s either going to knock or it’s not.
People have to remember....the bearing is the wear part. As long as the crank isn’t too bad. It’s perfectly acceptable to do this. And yes....probably a piston pin.
Great video....thanks for sharing.
I was like 1000.
Harmonic balancer? Makes the same noise when they let go. Had the same problem with a buick 3800. Rod knocking like hell. It was the balancer
Ahh, that ol issue of changing the old oil with new stuff... you should have at least changed it with newer used oil.
Folks after an entire lifetime of fooling with old vintage trucks I have learned one thing that is permanently in my head. You cannot tell a bad wrist pin knock from a bearing knock even if you R a self proclaimed expert as I am. There is no diff period. Also having a shop size your rods and crank for new bearings is best. A few times I have done it myself but there's no better feeling than calling Summit and getting a modest priced crank rods pistons and bearings. I had this happen in my younger days. Most of the time I find these old 350 motors on craigslist as long as they do not APPEAR cracked or abused I take em home. You can usually smell a CRACKED block but not all the time. Usually I can smell anti freeze and oil. Also as a rule of thumb I never ever buy a block where the oil pan has been off it or appears to have been removed. That is another sure sign of real trouble. I just picked up a motor that had been in 77 chevy pickup. The engine was spotless the guy selling it said it was rebuilt about 10 years just days before his son crashed the truck. The oil 10 years later smelled like new he said it was synthetic and the filter appeared like new. I handed the guy his 500 bucks and left it. I feel like it was a good deal now that it is home on a stand the bearing caps showed the rods are in deed brand new and numbered as well. So it was rebuilt and the inside of the pan is spotless. I put new seals in it and gasket and put it back together. That engine spoke to me when I sniffed it inside then opened it up. It also appears the motor is bored 20 over.
I had this happen on a 77 chevy, used the plasti-gauge crap and said i needed .030 bearing on the piston that spun the bearings, did that and the motor wouldnt turn. Come to find out the crank was ovaled, .030 on one side and .010 on the other side. So i just slapped in a .010 bearing which quieted it down a bit and actually drove it banging for a while before finally replacing it
It’s obviously frustrating but makes for compelling viewing ,so thank you I guess.
I did same thing with the bearings to a Toyota 22r. And drove it few more years.
Friend of mine years back had the same noise in his k5. After pulling the motor and ripping into it he found out it was the arm on the fuel pump. Only time I’ve seen it happen. Thought for sure it was a wrist pin or bearing.
Pick & Pull
Looking forward to it
Inb4 15 seconds
People make fun of me changing my oil every 3000 miles. But in 45 years of driving, and putting 250.000 miles and more on my cars, ive NEVER had an engine problem whatsoever. I always bought new also. I currently have 348.000 miles on my 94 Trans Am , I bought in june of 94. Engine never been touched, even the timing chain is original. Still purrs, and sounds like the day I bought it. Lt1 engine, Castrol Gtx 10 30. It works guys. Now everyone wants to go 7 to 10.000 miles on their oil. Smh.
Only driven to church once a week by a little old lady and serviced regularly..................................The truck that is, not the little old lady