I had a f28 reading on my vaillant boiler & wasn't getting any hot water or heating..reset it, held down the 2 top buttons while it said loading then released them. The little flame symbol appeared in the bottom right of the screen, the boiler fired up & hot water came immediately. Many thanks for this video, very helpful
Brilliant video, what I would like to say 1.The bottom solenoid 119 ohm is fine even brand new resistance is same exactly as you said 140 plus or minus 10% 2. The yellow plug the diagram to test between one and no.2 pin the multimeter was on 1 and 3 , the 117ohm between 1,2 inch I love your videos alot of knowledge
so useful, thank you, I like the close ups of the electrical tests. When you are testing the gas valve pressure, I presume it is at test point1 and not 2?
1:34 This is a great video, and very helpful! My Ecotec pro 28 kept failing to fire up (f28) and so I changed the electrode. It now fires up every time, but cuts out after a short period, and the error code has changed to f29. I’ve measured the resistance of the HT lead and I’m getting 6 megohm 😮! Is this likely to be the reason, maybe due to the flame rectification process?
Great vid mate. I had a problem with one of these valves recently, wish I had known this info at that point. Any chance you can confirm what the bottom ohms check should be (140 +/- 10%) and and what of the 6 pins are the correct ones to test between?
Totally agree on the fuel poverty, i see some shocking poverty. Scares me how little safety net there is these days and the government paints a picture of people milking it....the reality is the polar opposite
My heating boiler only has one plug on gas valve and resistance is 54ohms is it any good? Have seen other video which gas valve had one plug, he was getting 104ohms. It throws f.29 and f.28 error code.. but can be down to PCB as I check voltage should be 20V DC on start up, and later drop to 16V DC, but after 20-30mins starts playing up.
HELLO! Very Very good explanations. Thanks a lot. Never seen an explanation so good in my life (drawing + what to expect + how to measure in reality). There is something that is not clear to me and I will need your precious help, PLS! The bottom resistor should be 140 OHMI (10% tolerance + or - ) you said. Plus would be 140 + 14 (10%) = 154. Minus would be 140 - 14 (10%) = 126. The meter is saying 119 (not between 126 and 154) => faulty resistor if my understanding is correct. Why do you say 154 and 185, please? Thanks a lot for your video!!!
Yeah seen that one, normally there's one on the gas valve itself, I went to a f28 fault two days ago and couldn't find the pressure point on the gas valve to see if it was opening up
At 5.33 you say the reading was 1, 1 what? The actual display was showing meter out of range. If the reading was 1 it would display 1.something. not just a digit 1 on its own. Is your meter calibrated?
Fantastic video, I’m a 3rd year apprentice and love the depth and detail you go into. Inspiring stuff thanks for sharing some of the knowledge
I am always a DM away, look at our website @warrioirofwarmth.co.uk, loads of interesting power points etc
Hi, thank you so much, i have the foultcodes f54 and f28 for 2 days now and the hair dryer worked!!
@@Dennis-vs2so yes, it's modern PCBs not built like the old days!
I had a f28 reading on my vaillant boiler & wasn't getting any hot water or heating..reset it, held down the 2 top buttons while it said loading then released them. The little flame symbol appeared in the bottom right of the screen, the boiler fired up & hot water came immediately. Many thanks for this video, very helpful
Brilliant video, what I would like to say
1.The bottom solenoid 119 ohm is fine even brand new resistance is same exactly as you said 140 plus or minus 10%
2. The yellow plug the diagram to test between one and no.2 pin the multimeter was on 1 and 3 , the 117ohm between 1,2 inch
I love your videos alot of knowledge
Thanks for the positive feedback, I’ve a hectic life and individuals like u give me motivation
Thank you Sir. Please keep them coming. Brilliant video. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge.
Thank u I really appreciate your feedback x
Should you not do air integrity with the case on?
Yes good spot!
so useful, thank you, I like the close ups of the electrical tests. When you are testing the gas valve pressure, I presume it is at test point1 and not 2?
1:34 This is a great video, and very helpful! My Ecotec pro 28 kept failing to fire up (f28) and so I changed the electrode. It now fires up every time, but cuts out after a short period, and the error code has changed to f29. I’ve measured the resistance of the HT lead and I’m getting 6 megohm 😮! Is this likely to be the reason, maybe due to the flame rectification process?
@@dankelly4976 the lead sends the signal back to the pcb if flame is present
Great video thanks for sharing is there an app for resistances on gas valves leads etc
Absolutely brilliant video 👍👌
Thanks I appreciate your feedback
Great vid mate. I had a problem with one of these valves recently, wish I had known this info at that point. Any chance you can confirm what the bottom ohms check should be (140 +/- 10%) and and what of the 6 pins are the correct ones to test between?
F28 on a Vaillant Ecotec Pro turned out to be low water pressure in the heating system in my case. Increasing the pressure fixed the problem.
Yes, after awhile they can seize due to dirt etc
Hi
My reading is 0.746 on vaillant ignition lead . Is that ok or i need new one. Thanks
need a new one definitely
Totally agree on the fuel poverty, i see some shocking poverty. Scares me how little safety net there is these days and the government paints a picture of people milking it....the reality is the polar opposite
My heating boiler only has one plug on gas valve and resistance is 54ohms is it any good? Have seen other video which gas valve had one plug, he was getting 104ohms.
It throws f.29 and f.28 error code.. but can be down to PCB as I check voltage should be 20V DC on start up, and later drop to 16V DC, but after 20-30mins starts playing up.
HELLO! Very Very good explanations. Thanks a lot. Never seen an explanation so good in my life (drawing + what to expect + how to measure in reality). There is something that is not clear to me and I will need your precious help, PLS! The bottom resistor should be 140 OHMI (10% tolerance + or - ) you said. Plus would be 140 + 14 (10%) = 154. Minus would be 140 - 14 (10%) = 126. The meter is saying 119 (not between 126 and 154) => faulty resistor if my understanding is correct. Why do you say 154 and 185, please? Thanks a lot for your video!!!
there is two solenoids
@@warriorsofwarmthwhat he’s saying is, your 10% tolerance figures are incorrect because 140 - 10% = 126
@@dankelly4976 sorry, sometimes when filming I get nervous plus I'm slightly deaf,
Can I ask where the gas pressure test point is on the sustain....i can't find it on the gas valve
Look on the gas isolation valve underneath
Yeah seen that one, normally there's one on the gas valve itself, I went to a f28 fault two days ago and couldn't find the pressure point on the gas valve to see if it was opening up
Where did you put the black negative to test from?
for which component?
very helpful many thanks
Thanks for the feedback
At 5.33 you say the reading was 1, 1 what? The actual display was showing meter out of range. If the reading was 1 it would display 1.something. not just a digit 1 on its own. Is your meter calibrated?
Sorry I am partially deaf
Good video
Any on f. 61 on eco tec pro 28
I'm sure it's faulty gas valve
u guage see if GV opens?
@@warriorsofwarmth checked after 10mb on dhw, going to swap it out
Muy interesante tu vídeo. Te sugiero que pongas subtítulos en español. Gracias un saludo desde 🇪🇦
Flue integrity test with the case off?
No ?
NEVER analyse with the boiler cover removed .
🤘😎🤘
The HT LEAD