Good to see competent and conscientious work being done by a young guy - especially in my home state! I'm 68, semi-retired and still banging nails here and there for extra $$. My drywaller and electrician are both 71, my plumber is 81. We can't go on forever and 'the torch' is in good hands with you. Oh, and you're right about not being too old to learn something new; I've done my share of vinyl in 36 years but still picked up a couple things from you.
Another awesome video! Just finished watching all 3 parts to this video series. Nice to see unedited videos with hardships or sometimes mishaps because these things happen to all of us but sometimes I wonder if it only happens to me and now I know that's not the case. LOL. Your videos are the best I've seen so far and believe me I've watched several videos. I'm just a DIY but none the less have done several siding jobs. I've learnt from watching videos, self taught and common sense. The way you do your J-trim as got to be the best way as the top J is continuous around the bend, less chance for water to infiltrate in the joints. Definitely will give that a try when I finish my garage and house in the spring, I've got 2800 sq/ft of siding (14 boxes) to install and of course all the accessories which I find is what takes the most time. This is a renovation, already replaced most of the soffit and fascia. Will be watching all your other videos. Cheers from Kazabazua, QC, Canada!
Thanks! I forget half the things I said lol. The nail in the fascia I should have drilled out, but usually I’m able to get it with the second or third try… that one went into a knot and gave me a lot of trouble. Good luck on your project!
Great videos! I've got a piece of vinyl that's come unlocked along it's bottom edge. I'd love to see a video showing how you would go about fixing this?
Thanks! I will see about doing that soon (I’ve put it in my notes). Maybe I’ll start finding more repair work so I can make videos on how to make repairs.
Thanks for doing this video. What is the thickness of the vinyl you would recommend? Also, is the juice worth the squeeze on the insulated vinyl siding?
No problem! Industry standard around here is .042” thickness. Anything that thick or thicker should be sufficient. Thicker is typically better, but might not necessarily change any fading tendencies… it would be harder to dent and chip though. Insulated siding “should” be even more resilient to impacts and will add some R value as well. Insulation pretty much always will pay itself back over time, so it is a good choice as long as you like the look of it. Normal window j pockets won’t accept insulated vinyl siding so they would need j channel. Another downside to insulated vinyl siding is that if/when the siding is stripped off, the insulation goes with it. I’ve done houses before where I installed 1” rigid insulation before the siding and that gets you a true R-5 with no thermal bridging - I like that way of doing it, but it also requires j channel around windows (unless the windows and doors are going in with the siding, because then they could be padded out to meet the siding). Good luck with your project!
Hi Brandon Well I watched all three in the series and I have learned a lot . One question on staple length . With house wrap on I don't see how one could hit the studs behind the sheathing :) so the 1-1/4 staples your using are only going thru the exterior sheathing , am I correct? Is my shop sheathing at 1/2 plywood too thin so should I strap it first or can I just staple to the 1/2 sheathing with 1 inch 16G staples . Thanks Steve
Hi Steve, you are correct. I just staple to the 1/2” sheathing, this is pretty standard in my neck of the woods. Most manufacturers (and building codes) say to nail to studs, but I haven’t ran into any problems in twenty or so years with just going to the sheathing. A 1” staple will go all the way through the sheathing.
I enjoyed the video. Very informative. Question.. i noticed you cut 2 3" pieces for the soffits at the peak. Now needing to caulk. Probably easier with a 4-12 pitch then a 8 or 12-12 pitch to just fold the soffit around the peak leaving no open gap. It seemed to work well on my garage. Have you ever done that
That’s a good idea. It would work well unless the ribs landed in the wrong spot, but I think I’ll use it in the future. I’d probably do one side long with a crease and a tab then the other side over it to the center point (if that’s what you meant). :)
I quess it only works if you come up one side and down the other. Coming up from both sides it wouldnt work. Im only done a few jobs, my own place. Thanks again. Ill be watching more
Hi FixItWithMe, if you build your fascias out of wood or PVC then you could probably get by without a metal brake. But if your fascias are wrapped with aluminum there’s no way out of borrowing, renting or buying a brake.
I just priced out Mathews Brothers windows nice to see them installed along with vinyl siding, Inclinded to use vinyl on my new build also considering the lp smart side can you comment on the approximate cost to install lp vs vinyl. thank you for the video
You’re welcome! It’s hard to say an exact figure, but I looked at Lowe’s prices and it looks like LP sells for about $300 per sq (100 sq ft) and you still have to paint it. Vinyl goes for around $120 per sq. Overall my gut tells me: whenever I go with dimensional lumber or material I figure it is at least double for materials and double for labor.
Good to see competent and conscientious work being done by a young guy - especially in my home state! I'm 68, semi-retired and still banging nails here and there for extra $$. My drywaller and electrician are both 71, my plumber is 81. We can't go on forever and 'the torch' is in good hands with you. Oh, and you're right about not being too old to learn something new; I've done my share of vinyl in 36 years but still picked up a couple things from you.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it! Your plumber wouldn’t be Wardwell?
@@sidingschool No, we're all in the Deerfield area.
Got it. I guess we both know a couple more seasoned plumbers! 😊
Another awesome video! Just finished watching all 3 parts to this video series. Nice to see unedited videos with hardships or sometimes mishaps because these things happen to all of us but sometimes I wonder if it only happens to me and now I know that's not the case. LOL. Your videos are the best I've seen so far and believe me I've watched several videos. I'm just a DIY but none the less have done several siding jobs. I've learnt from watching videos, self taught and common sense. The way you do your J-trim as got to be the best way as the top J is continuous around the bend, less chance for water to infiltrate in the joints. Definitely will give that a try when I finish my garage and house in the spring, I've got 2800 sq/ft of siding (14 boxes) to install and of course all the accessories which I find is what takes the most time. This is a renovation, already replaced most of the soffit and fascia. Will be watching all your other videos. Cheers from Kazabazua, QC, Canada!
Thanks! I forget half the things I said lol. The nail in the fascia I should have drilled out, but usually I’m able to get it with the second or third try… that one went into a knot and gave me a lot of trouble. Good luck on your project!
Nice job love your video. Nice to see how it’s done
Thanks! I’m glad you liked it! 😊
Great videos! I've got a piece of vinyl that's come unlocked along it's bottom edge. I'd love to see a video showing how you would go about fixing this?
Thanks! I will see about doing that soon (I’ve put it in my notes). Maybe I’ll start finding more repair work so I can make videos on how to make repairs.
Thanks for doing this video. What is the thickness of the vinyl you would recommend? Also, is the juice worth the squeeze on the insulated vinyl siding?
No problem! Industry standard around here is .042” thickness. Anything that thick or thicker should be sufficient. Thicker is typically better, but might not necessarily change any fading tendencies… it would be harder to dent and chip though.
Insulated siding “should” be even more resilient to impacts and will add some R value as well. Insulation pretty much always will pay itself back over time, so it is a good choice as long as you like the look of it. Normal window j pockets won’t accept insulated vinyl siding so they would need j channel. Another downside to insulated vinyl siding is that if/when the siding is stripped off, the insulation goes with it. I’ve done houses before where I installed 1” rigid insulation before the siding and that gets you a true R-5 with no thermal bridging - I like that way of doing it, but it also requires j channel around windows (unless the windows and doors are going in with the siding, because then they could be padded out to meet the siding). Good luck with your project!
Hi Brandon
Well I watched all three in the series and I have learned a lot . One question on staple length . With house wrap on I don't see how one could hit the studs behind the sheathing :) so the 1-1/4 staples your using are only going thru the exterior sheathing , am I correct? Is my shop sheathing at 1/2 plywood too thin so should I strap it first or can I just staple to the 1/2 sheathing with 1 inch 16G staples . Thanks Steve
Hi Steve, you are correct. I just staple to the 1/2” sheathing, this is pretty standard in my neck of the woods. Most manufacturers (and building codes) say to nail to studs, but I haven’t ran into any problems in twenty or so years with just going to the sheathing. A 1” staple will go all the way through the sheathing.
@Siding School I just cringe at seeing thousands of staples poking thru the inside of my open shop walls 😅
You should see what it looks like when cedar shakes are installed. 😬
I enjoyed the video. Very informative. Question.. i noticed you cut 2 3" pieces for the soffits at the peak. Now needing to caulk. Probably easier with a 4-12 pitch then a 8 or 12-12 pitch to just fold the soffit around the peak leaving no open gap. It seemed to work well on my garage. Have you ever done that
That’s a good idea. It would work well unless the ribs landed in the wrong spot, but I think I’ll use it in the future. I’d probably do one side long with a crease and a tab then the other side over it to the center point (if that’s what you meant). :)
I quess it only works if you come up one side and down the other. Coming up from both sides it wouldnt work. Im only done a few jobs, my own place. Thanks again. Ill be watching more
More to come!
Is there any way for a homeowner diyer to do this without a siding break?
Hi FixItWithMe, if you build your fascias out of wood or PVC then you could probably get by without a metal brake. But if your fascias are wrapped with aluminum there’s no way out of borrowing, renting or buying a brake.
I just priced out Mathews Brothers windows nice to see them installed along with vinyl siding, Inclinded to use vinyl on my new build also considering the lp smart side can you comment on the approximate cost to install lp vs vinyl. thank you for the video
You’re welcome! It’s hard to say an exact figure, but I looked at Lowe’s prices and it looks like LP sells for about $300 per sq (100 sq ft) and you still have to paint it. Vinyl goes for around $120 per sq. Overall my gut tells me: whenever I go with dimensional lumber or material I figure it is at least double for materials and double for labor.
I really like that job, you have work for me, I'm available...
Thanks :), unfortunately I’m changing things up a bit in business… scaling down and focusing on smaller jobs that will hopefully make better content.
👍👍👍👍