I surfed Rincon a long time ago in like 2014, and I remember these two locals that had this like super wrinkled and hardened orange carrot skin and they must've been in their late 30's or 40s. One of them was a woman. They were hogging every wave and being overall aggro. I made sure to always wear sunscreen from that day onward. Do they still surf there?
@@jacobsmith4284 if they looked like carrots then i imagine they look like barnacles now.. thats if melanoma didnt already claim their greedy aggro lives lol
Back in the 83/84 swells Rincon got big enough for the rivermouth to break like middle peak in steamer's lane,it had 25 foot faces,at least on the sets,it was epic.i remember Michael Ho and Shaun Tomson just ripping, especially Shaun,he was surfing it like a skateboarder , really fast carves and re entries, Johnathan Paarman was also out surfing it so well, doing round house after round house,so much style, unfortunately I've never seen an footage come out, however their is a photo of Shaun bottom turning on one that got into surfing magazine,I hope anyone can find it in the archives, when you see the photo,it backs up everything I have said
Of course. Reentries on 25 foot face waves in the 80s. Those were the days! Meanwhile present day it's 4-6 ft at Rincon on the 100 year swell just like it always is each winter. :P
I was there 🙄 shouldn’t say it🤭but Michael was Amazin👌 i thought Shawn was great at backdoor but he overpowered the Queen with all that wigglin😹he influenced many of my Fav SB Soul Surfers and then they started wigglin too😏Carpas Boys were not affected🤘🏼O well that was the future🤷🏽♂️🙄😹i was also watchin as a grom in 69 now that was sum Biggg Queen 👑 🥚 rider back then🙄😹👊🏼🤘🏼
Funny, been surfing most of my life, this would have been an average, ok day. Put it on film and everyone thinks your a star. Lol. Millions of surfers have had way better days. Need a big ego to get the props you want from video. Nice, average day of surfing. Nothing special here. Another day of surfing, just like any other.
World overpop couldn't be illustrated better..Thankful I was born when I was....Where's my IBU...Geezer
Awesome.
I surfed Rincon a long time ago in like 2014, and I remember these two locals that had this like super wrinkled and hardened orange carrot skin and they must've been in their late 30's or 40s. One of them was a woman. They were hogging every wave and being overall aggro. I made sure to always wear sunscreen from that day onward. Do they still surf there?
awesome story
@@SlowWaves do you know who im talking about though
I liked that long time ago bit. That was funny.
Orange skin means they’re from Florida! Probably on holiday way back in 2014!
@@jacobsmith4284 if they looked like carrots then i imagine they look like barnacles now.. thats if melanoma didnt already claim their greedy aggro lives lol
Huge 3 to 5 feet.
Perfect size for ripping Rincon, if you can get a wave to yourself.
Ok Hawaiian lol
Where are all the GOOD surfers?
Back in the 83/84 swells Rincon got big enough for the rivermouth to break like middle peak in steamer's lane,it had 25 foot faces,at least on the sets,it was epic.i remember Michael Ho and Shaun Tomson just ripping, especially Shaun,he was surfing it like a skateboarder , really fast carves and re entries, Johnathan Paarman was also out surfing it so well, doing round house after round house,so much style, unfortunately I've never seen an footage come out, however their is a photo of Shaun bottom turning on one that got into surfing magazine,I hope anyone can find it in the archives, when you see the photo,it backs up everything I have said
Of course. Reentries on 25 foot face waves in the 80s. Those were the days! Meanwhile present day it's 4-6 ft at Rincon on the 100 year swell just like it always is each winter. :P
I was there 🙄 shouldn’t say it🤭but Michael was Amazin👌 i thought Shawn was great at backdoor but he overpowered the Queen with all that wigglin😹he influenced many of my Fav SB Soul Surfers and then they started wigglin too😏Carpas Boys were not affected🤘🏼O well that was the future🤷🏽♂️🙄😹i was also watchin as a grom in 69 now that was sum Biggg Queen 👑 🥚 rider back then🙄😹👊🏼🤘🏼
Funny, been surfing most of my life, this would have been an average, ok day. Put it on film and everyone thinks your a star. Lol. Millions of surfers have had way better days. Need a big ego to get the props you want from video. Nice, average day of surfing. Nothing special here. Another day of surfing, just like any other.
You had to of filmed the most boring surfers (shortboarders) out there that day ahahahh.
welcome to California
@@SlowWaves😂 truth
Better than not filming at all.