I would have gone totally wrong but for this. I would have used a mallet to hammer the pins in, I can see now why that is wrong with brass. Now to find out how you got that image on your blade. I’m presuming it’s etched in after forging or you are the greatest Damascus blade maker of all time to make moonrise over a town. I really like how you explain things, simply without talking down or patronising. It’s been a long time since the decision to subscribe to a channel has been so easy for me.
Thanks Mark really appreciate the feedback. Blade was electro etched. Actually a fairly easy process using a 12 volt care battery charger, slat water and self adhesive vinyl. Check out one of my electro etching how to videos and thanks again for taking the time
Finally, a substantive, easy to follow explanation for bolster mounting with readily availbe tools. I needed this info as my soldering technique is terrible.
Have you tried making brass liners and brass bolsters that are of one solid price of brass? I'm thinking about doing it but it does seem kind of challenging
I wonder how the knife looks with every day use. Does the brass patina in a way that works with the carbon steel, or does one stick out more than the other?
what size brass flat bar is best to use in the handle area, as in the with 1", 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" I guess I'm looking for the average knife making so that you have plenty to work with but not a lot of waste.
I’m impressed....For one thing the proficiency and accuracy with which you handle that angle grinder. What type and size of wheels are you using. I have a 4” used primarily for cutting and grinding hard metal. I’ve not thought of using it in more non forgiving applications. Even the torquing would seem to be a challenge. Please help me understand. Thanks
I've always peened the bolsters in place because I never thought the pins would disappear with epoxy alone. It worked here but have u tried both ways? Just wondering what you think.
If you are going to make brass bolsters try this method to install scales with nice tight scale to bolster seams. ua-cam.com/video/g3vV7FdWbF8/v-deo.html
How do you keep the epoxy from melting under the heat of the sanders and flap wheel? Water naturally is what I would think to apply often along with fresh belts, but even with fresh belts on small amounts of brass can heat up quick.
I order mine from Amazon. I buy the 3/8" x 1" x 2 feet for $40 -- I make chefs' knives so need a bit thicker than he's using. The 1/4" x 1" cheaper, but their smallest length is 60" for $60. (Shipping is free on both if you're a prime member.) I believe you can also order from Texas Knife Supply, probably Jantz and USAknifemaker too.
I notice you sand down your 1/8" pin stock a wee bit -- one of my favorite knifemaking sayings (after "use belts like they wuz free") is "a 1/4-inch pin will NOT fit in a 1/4-inch hole". I use an "F" drill bit for 1/4" pins and a 52 for 1/16". The corresponding for a 1/8" pin would be either a #30 (0.1285") or for a snugger fit a 3.2mm (0.1260") - might be harder to find in US). I buy a few each of the F's and 52's - I prefer cobalt. (I confess I have one or two carbide bits ($$$ and very brittle) for when I get stoopid and forget a hole until after heat-treat. I'm further embarrassed to say this has happened more than once. Or twice....) One other little trick that can save a lot of anguish: I borrowed some of my wife's nail polishes (yes, I asked :-)), picking the most distinctive different colors she had, and I bought some real cheap stuff in bright yellow and blue too, and color-coded the drill bits I use most. I got tired of squinting under the bench spotlight to read whether it's an F or a 1/4", and sometimes the chuck scratches the mark off anyhow -- I always end up grabbing the calipers and that's a pain. Now I know that orange is F, purple is 1/4". I'm also going to put an additional stripe on to show what *kind* of bit it is: HSS or cobalt. I'm thinking just using the same colors but 2 stripes for cobalt which is my default for metal. (I'm not gonna bother with TiN because it's obvious from the color, or carbide because I keep those babies in their little protective tubes in a separate tray.)
Thank you so much for the "tricks of the trade". I was LOL when you talked about trying to read the bit size. I have the same problem and will absolutely put your solutions to work. You sir are a genius !!
Please join my facebook group Knives and knifemaking and re post this information as well as any images of your knives. Im sure members would really appreciate your great advise facebook.com/groups/324546941320593/
I would have gone totally wrong but for this. I would have used a mallet to hammer the pins in, I can see now why that is wrong with brass. Now to find out how you got that image on your blade. I’m presuming it’s etched in after forging or you are the greatest Damascus blade maker of all time to make moonrise over a town.
I really like how you explain things, simply without talking down or patronising. It’s been a long time since the decision to subscribe to a channel has been so easy for me.
Thanks Mark really appreciate the feedback. Blade was electro etched. Actually a fairly easy process using a 12 volt care battery charger, slat water and self adhesive vinyl. Check out one of my electro etching how to videos and thanks again for taking the time
Finally, a substantive, easy to follow explanation for bolster mounting with readily availbe tools. I needed this info as my soldering technique is terrible.
Glad you liked it!
Great video- very clear and easy to follow.
Beautiful knife. Really like the brass bolsters with the near black scales. Excellent work.
Thanks Glen really appreciate the feedback
Simple, clear, and instructional video! Well done. Thank you.
Thanks for the video! Very informative.
I like your approach on using just simple tools laying around just about any ones shop to complete your projects..
That's a great looking knife. Thanks for making this video
Nice work, I wish you had added a segment on how you marched the bolsters and handle scales so well
will try to add it to next video
DIYeasycrafts thanks! I appreciate the quick response!
Same
Your tutorials are awesome and informative. Like the two tone etching also. Definitely try on my next knife build
Superb video! Nice and straightforward, easy to follow, meaningful voiceover, great end product - loved it 👍
Thanks so much!
Have you tried making brass liners and brass bolsters that are of one solid price of brass? I'm thinking about doing it but it does seem kind of challenging
I have not. Your right it would be a lot of work
The hardest part would be keeping it flat unless you have a milling machine
You do tremendous work!!
Thanks. Actually trying to improve all the time. Check out this video for dovetail stainless bolsters ua-cam.com/video/M9Y4EbF1Z5w/v-deo.html
Easy technique thank you
You have skillz!
Love it
Thank you.Video will help me a lot in the future with my knife builds.
I wonder how the knife looks with every day use. Does the brass patina in a way that works with the carbon steel, or does one stick out more than the other?
Beautiful work
You can also get brass pin rods at a welding supply store.
what size brass flat bar is best to use in the handle area, as in the with 1", 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" I guess I'm looking for the average knife making so that you have plenty to work with but not a lot of waste.
That is a good looking knife!
Thank you Sir
I’m impressed....For one thing the proficiency and accuracy with which you handle that angle grinder. What type and size of wheels are you using.
I have a 4” used primarily for cutting and grinding hard metal. I’ve not thought of using it in more non forgiving applications. Even the torquing would seem to be a challenge. Please help me understand. Thanks
I actually mostly used flap sanding wheels from Harbor Freight. 4.5 inch. In my more recent videos I do almost everything on the 2x72 grinder
Well done.
Magnifico,semplicemente magnifico. Bravo.
Which drill press vice are you using?
Got it at Harbor Freight
very nice
I've always peened the bolsters in place because I never thought the pins would disappear with epoxy alone. It worked here but have u tried both ways? Just wondering what you think.
I was thinking the same thing. Why would I rely on epoxy alone?
I love this video, have now watched it 5 times and sub'd. Thanks for sharing!
If you are going to make brass bolsters try this method to install scales with nice tight scale to bolster seams. ua-cam.com/video/g3vV7FdWbF8/v-deo.html
nice work
Very pretty
Hi.. Great video. Do you lacquer the brass to stop it tarnishing?
Great lookin' blade!
Great job 👍🏻
How do you keep the epoxy from melting under the heat of the sanders and flap wheel? Water naturally is what I would think to apply often along with fresh belts, but even with fresh belts on small amounts of brass can heat up quick.
Did you get a response?
Where do you get stock?
MNcmaster carr
is there a stencil I could buy like the the one etched on your knife?
I just printed it out on my craft vinyl cutting machine
when i sand down the brass pins they get so hot it messes up the epoxy i use to fix the handles down? :/
Brass doesn't stick well with brass. I'd worry about them coming lose over time.
Would you use a silver brazing?
Where do you get your brass? I have been looking and it isn't cheep! LOL
where to order the brass stock?
is it the epoxy that holds the bolster to tang? no pinning?
No the bolsters have both epoxy and pins
You get the stock at home depot?
I get the brass 1 inch x 1/4 inch from granger. I get 1/4 scales pins from home depot and 1/8" brass from Ace hardware
There’s a familiar New England accent. ❤️
I’m from Kansas originally. I don’t relate to his accent at all. :)
Where can I buy the brass? Would I find it in a Home Depot?
I order mine from Amazon. I buy the 3/8" x 1" x 2 feet for $40 -- I make chefs' knives so need a bit thicker than he's using. The 1/4" x 1" cheaper, but their smallest length is 60" for $60. (Shipping is free on both if you're a prime member.) I believe you can also order from Texas Knife Supply, probably Jantz and USAknifemaker too.
Try McMaster .com
What can i buy the same belt sander as you?
We actually built it out of scrap materials at my friends metal shop. ua-cam.com/video/t4V8pPToEyg/v-deo.html
Йопрст..... На русском языке не смог найти, нашёл на иностранном. Спасибо за видео, нашёл именно то, что искал!!!
I notice you sand down your 1/8" pin stock a wee bit -- one of my favorite knifemaking sayings (after "use belts like they wuz free") is "a 1/4-inch pin will NOT fit in a 1/4-inch hole". I use an "F" drill bit for 1/4" pins and a 52 for 1/16". The corresponding for a 1/8" pin would be either a #30 (0.1285") or for a snugger fit a 3.2mm (0.1260") - might be harder to find in US). I buy a few each of the F's and 52's - I prefer cobalt. (I confess I have one or two carbide bits ($$$ and very brittle) for when I get stoopid and forget a hole until after heat-treat. I'm further embarrassed to say this has happened more than once. Or twice....)
One other little trick that can save a lot of anguish: I borrowed some of my wife's nail polishes (yes, I asked :-)), picking the most distinctive different colors she had, and I bought some real cheap stuff in bright yellow and blue too, and color-coded the drill bits I use most. I got tired of squinting under the bench spotlight to read whether it's an F or a 1/4", and sometimes the chuck scratches the mark off anyhow -- I always end up grabbing the calipers and that's a pain. Now I know that orange is F, purple is 1/4". I'm also going to put an additional stripe on to show what *kind* of bit it is: HSS or cobalt. I'm thinking just using the same colors but 2 stripes for cobalt which is my default for metal. (I'm not gonna bother with TiN because it's obvious from the color, or carbide because I keep those babies in their little protective tubes in a separate tray.)
Thank you so much for the "tricks of the trade". I was LOL when you talked about trying to read the bit size. I have the same problem and will absolutely put your solutions to work. You sir are a genius !!
Please join my facebook group Knives and knifemaking and re post this information as well as any images of your knives. Im sure members would really appreciate your great advise facebook.com/groups/324546941320593/
I have those same paper plates.
Simple techniques- awesome results 👏👏
Very well explained! Shame about the video quality..
did you peen the pins ?
Did you peen the pins?