HOW TO adjust valves on a 1972 Ford 302 from an F100
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- THE RIGHT WAY to adjust valves on a 1972 Ford 302
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THE PROCEDURE I FOLLOWED:
This procedure for the 289 and early 302 V8 engines is designed for engines in which the rocker arm mounting studs do not incorporate a positive stop shoulder on the mounting stud. These engines were originally equipped with this kind of stud. However, due to production differences, it is possible some 289 or early 302 engines may be encountered that are equipped with positive stop rocker arm mounting studs. Before following this procedure, verify that the rocker arm mounting studs do not incorporate a positive stop shoulder. On studs without a positive stop, the shank portion of the stud that is exposed just above the cylinder head is the same diameter as the threaded portion, at the top of the stud is of greater diameter than the threaded portion, this identifies it as a positive stop rocker arm stud and the procedure for the 351 engine should be followed.
Crank the engine until No. 1 cylinder is at TDC of the compression stroke and the timing pointer is aligned with the mark on the crankshaft damper.
Scribe a mark on the damper at this point.
Scribe three more marks on the damper, dividing the damper into quarters (see illustration).
With mark A aligned with the timing pointer, adjust the valves on No. 1 cylinder by backing off the adjusting nut until the pushrod has free-play in it. Then, tighten the nut until there is no free-play in the rocker arm. This can be determined by turning the pushrod while tightening the nut; when the pushrod can no longer be turned, all clearance has been removed. After the clearance has been removed, tighten the nut an additional 1⁄4 of a turn.
Repeat this procedure for each valve, turning the crankshaft 1⁄4 turn to the next mark each time and following the engine firing order of 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
Positive stop adjustment procedure:
Rocker arm tighten specifications are: 302 and 351 W - tighten the nut until it contacts the rocker shoulder, then tighten to 18-20 ft. lbs.; 351 C - tighten the bolt to 18-25 ft. lbs.; 429 - tighten the nut until it contacts rocker shoulder, then tighten to 18-22 ft. lbs.
So in a way they all adjust by the rocker arms. I have seen engines that were sick until we backed off the nut from the positive stop then double nutted them.
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I’m just starting into your videos but if it was running you could do it while running. Back off nuts until it rattles, back in until it’s quiet then 1/4-3/4 turn depending who you listen to. Another thing I’ve done and still do if you think a ring is stuck just run a quart of diesel in it and drive it for a bit. If it’s that it will definitely fix it and if it’s not it’s probably worn out. Disclaimer this is my thoughts not advice lol
Got this dialed in now. I still need to fine tune the carb and adjust the choke for the new temps. Just finished the dual exhaust, still needs wheel bearings packed (examined) and the carrier bearing swapped. A few more videos to go before this one is complete. Been a fun project for sure. 👍🏼
People use to shim under or above the rockers if valve stem lengths were different. This caused the rockers to not sit flat on the mounts and allow wobble. Sometimes the bosses would crack or the stud/nut threads would get damaged.
These all looked healthy, not stripped or cracked. The studs were all at the same depth etc. This adjustment process worked great (spoiler alert 🚨 for future videos).
Use a vac gauge when running and if the needle flutters its most likely valve guides
Thanks man. Appreciate the comment.
After a minute of thinking. The rocker arm nuts are loosening. Why? Are they threaded or pressed in? I think the old ones were pressed. Check the hight on all of them. If it is sliding out, you might be able to do a Jerry rig drill and pin but I can't recommend that. First, I would remove a good rocker and all the hardware and compare to the bad and check stud height.
They loosened because in the previous video I replaced the valve seals. The engine was running and “healthy” other than the insane amount of oil it was burning (thus changing valve seals). Just needed to reset valve lash/preload. This adjustment process was perfect (spoiler alert 🚨). No longer burning oil (contrary to many of the comments on other videos too 🤷🏼♂️). I still need to adjust the choke for the colder weather and adjust air fuel mixture and possibly timing.
If you are still having oil consumption problems and you replaced the valve seals, either your valve guides are shot (common for Ford and older engines) or your rings are stuck in the pistons or just totally shot too as far as tension. Valve seals don't really cause major smoking or oil consumption problems, even if they are shot or not even there. You can try putting marvel mystery oil and other solvents (paint thinner, mineral spirits, etc) in the cylinders and let it sit and cross your fingers. Turn it over to blow the fluid out before putting your plugs back in as to not hydro lock it and bend a Dinky Ford rod.
If you try that, change the oil before you drive it.
I am going to guess by it's age that your rings and valve guides are both shot. Sorry, just my opinion as an engine builder.
Compression increased after soaking with AIM Extreme Duty Lubricant. Tells me rings are definitely at play here.
I had a Honda with low tension rings that did the same thing after i rebuilt the cylinder head. I soaked the cylinders with all kinds of stuff, yet it still smoked like a chimney going down the road. I eventually put rings in it after it burned another exhaust valve from all the oil consumption. Come to find out later that the rings are so low tension that having the head off for a few days, dries out the carbon build up and causes them to stick in the ring grooves. Most common with Hondas, but have seen it on Chryslers too. Can happen to any engine, really and the more worn the rings are, the more likely... they lose tension over miles of running.
Non adjustable studs means you torque them down with no regard to pushrod play and lifter pre-load. The method you describe is for adjustable studs and lock nuts. With a Ford, it's hard to say which is on it by watching this video, they used different things in different years. Your 1/4 crank turn method works, but if you dig deeper, you'll find that there is a 2 revolution method based on the firing order. Set it at #1 TDC Compression and 8 valves can be adjusted, turn the crank 360 (TDC on cam overlap) and the other 8 can be done. I don't know the Ford numbers without looking it up, only SBC and BBC. Just be sure of which TDC you are on.
By how easy the nuts appear to turn, I'm going to guess yours are torque down rockers and they will back off when it is running and you'll lose your adjustments quickly.
The method you are using is typical for an SBC, but not an SBF. SBF's are usually torqued down and done. They can be adjusted in other ways. Double nutting them may work, but is NOT the way to do it and insure that geometry is correct. Bad geometry causes other issues after it gets running.
Have the heads or block surface been machined? Has the cam and lifter style been changed? Ie- going from flat tappet to a roller cam? You may need shorter pushrods, but it's not that easy AND keep proper valve train geometry.
I can make better guesses for you with more info.
Also, if you torque them, the lifters may need time to bleed down. Depends on how fast you are doing your compression test after you torque them down.
Don't make the marks on anything except the crankshaft pulley, the pulley ratios on your fan and other accessories does not equate to 1/4 crank turns.
On the googles there was no less than 20 ways to do this. I picked the one that made sense from what I see on the motor and from the replies to the forum post. So far this seems to be the correct method for the truck. I still haven’t fired it though. Started on interior (done and will be next weeks video if I can get it edited) and some body stuff too. This is a fun and challenging project.
Judging by how your nuts turn by your finger, I'd say its a torque down valve train and not adjustable, especially if it ran before this. I am thinking you aren't giving the lifters enough time to bleed down after torquing them and then compression testing. My guess is, they are gummed up and it might take some time. I suggest torquing them all down, turning it over on the starter a few (the more the better) revolutions and THEN do a compression test. Also, if it is a stock flat tappet cam, use high zinc oil in it, otherwise, you'll find yourself putting a cam in it. Don't worry about turning it over on the starter with pumped up lifters, even with a big cam, a decked block and shaved heads, it will still have miles of valve to piston clearance. I don't think you have any of that going on.
@@troysgarageYeah, I'm an engine guy and am not too interested in the truck or the interior, BUT, would like to help you through the engine basics. Double nutting those rocker nuts isn't right and should only be a last resort. If anything, buy lock nuts, but that isn't right either, especially if it was running before this.
@@TTGTO288 I do appreciate the help for sure. It was running before but wasn’t running great. I rebuilt the carb and it fired right up after that. But burned a lot of oil which started me down this path of valve seal replacement. I’m about a week away from firing the engine based on the time I have to work on this in the evenings and weekends.
@@troysgarageYeah, carbs are junk in my book ... EFI all the way ... if it ran before and rebuilding the carb made it run good, I'd blame the carb. I can rebuild performance Holleys, but after that? I have no interest, just buy a new/rebuilt one. Still hate carbs ... junk.
Either way, I'm going with lifters not bleeding down in your case. Torque them down again, turn it over on the starter a few times, then compression test it. We'll go from there.