I appreciate you describing all the inverter settings/ parameters and their functions. That to me is the most difficult part as manuals are usually lacking/ small print/ not legible or understandable. I have dozens of inverters, including several hybrids, but have not yet been able to complete installing the hybrids due to life circumstances (and no good place to mount solar panels). This will help me (even though I don't have this exact inverter).
@@BeatTheBush 👌That would be great to include a wind turbine into your system which is very beneficial also for newcomers in diy solar .Hurricane Beryl is right under us in Houston Texas and many other events like the winter storm Harvey and power outages from ERCOT that it was a lifesaver .Check out my DIY solar videos , hit like , leave a comment and subscribe . May the solar be with you . Doh Jeh Neih !😉
As for wires, you can generally find an electrical shop locally willing to make custom length wires for you. The better ones will even advise you on sizing but I’d verify they are correct. Know going in what you need.
so i had one of these batteries but i just got a second one and i am trying to figure out how the communication cables work to help the bateries communicate with each other. can anyone help me with this. thanks.
For anyone that doesn't understand the huge voltage differences between minimum battery discharge voltage and the battery undervoltage recovery to turn inverter back on Hysteresis-Often, some amount of hysteresis is intentionally added to an electronic circuit to prevent unwanted rapid switching. The phenomenon here is the rapid voltage drop (in this case; if we are talking about the max charge voltage and the voltage at which it will start charging the battery again it would be voltage rise) Because the very bottom and top of the LFP curve is so steep we could see the discharge current from the inverter drop the battery voltage back down to the battery undervoltage point if there is not a significant gap in between them. If there was only a 1V difference you would quickly cycle the inverter on and off. For example Minimum Battery Voltage: 20V Battery Undervoltage Recovery to Turn Inverter Back on: 22V Your average LFP battery that cuts off at 20V (for a 24V) will bounce back up to 22V EASILY within seconds after the load is disconnected. Sometimes even back up to 24V. With the above numbers the battery would fully discharge, inverter would stop drawing from the battery, voltage would rise back up within a few seconds, inverter would turn back on and before the load could even run for a few seconds it would likely drop back down to 20V. This cycle would continue going and going with less and less time in between each step as there becomes very very little capacity left at all (even under a small load) and eventually we would hit a point where the battery would never recover to 22V once the load is removed...but by that point I could see the system cycling 10+ times. A great way to blow up your inverter. Max charge voltage of battery: 28.4V Voltage at which charging can start again: 28V LFP's resting voltage is below 28V so the battery would fully charge, cut off the charger and within a minute drop below 28V and start charging again. Proper Voltage and which the charging can start again: 26.6V The above number is just slightly under the voltage LFP rests at so it would take a load current a minute or two to draw the battery down that low....it would never reach that point if there was no load...it would likely sit at 26.8V'ish if recently fully charged but has been without charging current for an hour.
Correct. On a full charge, it will run it for about 2 hours. Of course, this is expandable and you could put two 12V 200Ah batteries and run for 4 hours.
In my case my reasoning for building this and using it would be to timeshift my electricity usage. After 4:00 p.m. my electricity rate almost doubles, and then after 9:00 p.m. it drops back down, and my big 85 inch TV sucks down about 700 W when being used not sure if this would power my TV for those 5 hours???
I think the real test will be to see how well that inverter is functioning 12/24 months from now, if you don't have to repurchase new inverters because the initial one is so cheap that it has a high failure rate then you're not really saving any money.
That's a poor choice of handtruck for the weight you're strapping to it. Also, those resettable breakers are garbage. Watch the reviews on them. They will frequently allow as much as twice as many amps through before they overheat, finally trip, and are then completely destroyed. If you insist on using a resettable breaker, get one from Blue Sea Systems that works properly. Really, for the amps you're potentially pulling, a proper T-Class fuse is the way to go. Those are Grade-A, top-notch batteries, paired with a garbage inverter I wouldn't recommend to my worst enemy.
Hand truck is fine, it is within the weight limit and felt pretty sturdy. It is close to the limit to minimize cost. I do agree on the breaker being a cheap one and will replacing it. In the mean time, I will remove the recommendation from the video description and replace it with that one.
How is the inverter garbage, I got one! Yes 1yr now and does the job powering my washing machine, kettle, microwave and toaster also kitchen radio, it's within my budget and works ,so what's the down side if it functions and is affordable not breaking the bank
Your dogecoin going crazy again and bitcoin at 62k dollars. We need dogecoin updates and crypto updates please. They are more memecoin ever in crypto this bull run. You can’t keep up at all.
![Why a 48V System is Better than a 12V? [Vatrer Power]](/img/n.gif)
Wow! You gave me the inspiration to finally finish my solar project and was too scared without knowing the truth about the details. Great work
I appreciate you describing all the inverter settings/ parameters and their functions. That to me is the most difficult part as manuals are usually lacking/ small print/ not legible or understandable. I have dozens of inverters, including several hybrids, but have not yet been able to complete installing the hybrids due to life circumstances (and no good place to mount solar panels). This will help me (even though I don't have this exact inverter).
You know the video we are all waiting for....
YOU HAVE SEEMED TO BE INSPIRING MANY NEWCOMERS OF HOW TO GO DIY SOLAR AND THATS FANTASTIC . 🤗GOGO HAIH HOUH HOUH AH ! MAY THE SOLAR BE WITH YOU .
Solar is awesome, it's like magic. The energy does so much. Power computers, heat and cool. Oh my! Maybe wind power soon!
@@BeatTheBush 👌That would be great to include a wind turbine into your system which is very beneficial also for newcomers in diy solar .Hurricane Beryl is right under us in Houston Texas and many other events like the winter storm Harvey and power outages from ERCOT that it was a lifesaver .Check out my DIY solar videos , hit like , leave a comment and subscribe . May the solar be with you . Doh Jeh Neih !😉
As for wires, you can generally find an electrical shop locally willing to make custom length wires for you. The better ones will even advise you on sizing but I’d verify they are correct. Know going in what you need.
Amplia, completa, detallada información, me gusto la configuración del controlador solar. Gracias Sensei
Good stuff. Just subscribed. Enjoy learning from your channel and please keep us updated on your 48v battery, if you can. Thank you.
Thanks for the sub!
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Awesome! The Orion is very versatile
so i had one of these batteries but i just got a second one and i am trying to figure out how the communication cables work to help the bateries communicate with each other. can anyone help me with this. thanks.
Thanks for the build info. Love the hybrid tutorial, great buy being so versatile at ~$500.
How do you make one of these for 240V split phase?
You'll need a 240V capable hybrid inverter. They might get bigger than this hand truck could handle.
For anyone that doesn't understand the huge voltage differences between minimum battery discharge voltage and the battery undervoltage recovery to turn inverter back on
Hysteresis-Often, some amount of hysteresis is intentionally added to an electronic circuit to prevent unwanted rapid switching.
The phenomenon here is the rapid voltage drop (in this case; if we are talking about the max charge voltage and the voltage at which it will start charging the battery again it would be voltage rise)
Because the very bottom and top of the LFP curve is so steep we could see the discharge current from the inverter drop the battery voltage back down to the battery undervoltage point if there is not a significant gap in between them. If there was only a 1V difference you would quickly cycle the inverter on and off.
For example
Minimum Battery Voltage: 20V
Battery Undervoltage Recovery to Turn Inverter Back on: 22V
Your average LFP battery that cuts off at 20V (for a 24V) will bounce back up to 22V EASILY within seconds after the load is disconnected. Sometimes even back up to 24V. With the above numbers the battery would fully discharge, inverter would stop drawing from the battery, voltage would rise back up within a few seconds, inverter would turn back on and before the load could even run for a few seconds it would likely drop back down to 20V. This cycle would continue going and going with less and less time in between each step as there becomes very very little capacity left at all (even under a small load) and eventually we would hit a point where the battery would never recover to 22V once the load is removed...but by that point I could see the system cycling 10+ times. A great way to blow up your inverter.
Max charge voltage of battery: 28.4V
Voltage at which charging can start again: 28V
LFP's resting voltage is below 28V so the battery would fully charge, cut off the charger and within a minute drop below 28V and start charging again.
Proper Voltage and which the charging can start again: 26.6V
The above number is just slightly under the voltage LFP rests at so it would take a load current a minute or two to draw the battery down that low....it would never reach that point if there was no load...it would likely sit at 26.8V'ish if recently fully charged but has been without charging current for an hour.
Love your videos
am I correct that this rig will only run that heater for less than a couple hours
Correct. On a full charge, it will run it for about 2 hours. Of course, this is expandable and you could put two 12V 200Ah batteries and run for 4 hours.
In my case my reasoning for building this and using it would be to timeshift my electricity usage. After 4:00 p.m. my electricity rate almost doubles, and then after 9:00 p.m. it drops back down, and my big 85 inch TV sucks down about 700 W when being used not sure if this would power my TV for those 5 hours???
If the voltages are slightly different you can still wire them in series. Why would that matter
If one is higher and you charge it to 100%, one battery could end up being over charged.
Doesn’t each battery have its own internal battery management system?
Good stuff! Thanks.
Great video
Well done. Nice and good information
I have that same inverter
I think the real test will be to see how well that inverter is functioning 12/24 months from now, if you don't have to repurchase new inverters because the initial one is so cheap that it has a high failure rate then you're not really saving any money.
Just an OEM SRNE inverter
ha, cool
go 48 volts
I once had a writing teacher write a note not understanding what a hand truck is.
It's called by different names depending on what part of the world you live, so i'm not surprised. In Jamaica we call it a trolley.
That's a poor choice of handtruck for the weight you're strapping to it. Also, those resettable breakers are garbage. Watch the reviews on them. They will frequently allow as much as twice as many amps through before they overheat, finally trip, and are then completely destroyed. If you insist on using a resettable breaker, get one from Blue Sea Systems that works properly. Really, for the amps you're potentially pulling, a proper T-Class fuse is the way to go. Those are Grade-A, top-notch batteries, paired with a garbage inverter I wouldn't recommend to my worst enemy.
Hand truck is fine, it is within the weight limit and felt pretty sturdy. It is close to the limit to minimize cost. I do agree on the breaker being a cheap one and will replacing it. In the mean time, I will remove the recommendation from the video description and replace it with that one.
How is the inverter garbage, I got one! Yes 1yr now and does the job powering my washing machine, kettle, microwave and toaster also kitchen radio, it's within my budget and works ,so what's the down side if it functions and is affordable not breaking the bank
@@Andrew-ki5jz - 1 whole year? Well, if it's done what it's supposed to do for that long, I guess it's just the greatest product ever made.
Dangerous - its not really earthed is it - its basically earthed to the cart = good way to get yourself - or someone else seriously hurt
Your dogecoin going crazy again and bitcoin at 62k dollars. We need dogecoin updates and crypto updates please. They are more memecoin ever in crypto this bull run. You can’t keep up at all.