Thank you so much for this great video!! Just helped my favorite son do 13 holes in 182 panel to modernize the 1956 panel with punch and template. .120” was at limits but the punch held up.. Thank you, Paul.
Two tips to consider perhaps. First is the cleanest side of the hole will be whichever side the smaller part of the knockout die is placed - the backside might need a touch with a rat tail file to get back to flat. Second is knockout dies last a good long time - if you use some oil. Oil the threads and the face/edges of the small diameter [lightly] to prevent galling or edge chipping if going through thicker steel. Tool not only lasts longer, but you get a cleaner hole. First thing I do when I get a new bolt/drawstud for knockout dies is to put some gear oil on those threads so it's ready to go.
I did my instrument panel, using Front Panel Express - free download layout software that includes pricing. My panel cost $107US (small 1 seat homebuilt) CNC accurate, with choice of thickness and finishes.
When doing a complete panel, it would probably be prudent to mark the positions of the holes with a Sharpie. That way, if you make a measuring error, (or just forget what goes where), you'll see it before doing any cutting.
I have been considering buying a kit down the road and have many questions on how things are down and you answer a lot of them on this channel. Love your videos.
Dear old Alan Bean was giggling on the moon, "Hey, I just tried blowing the dust off the camera lens!' Pretty ineffectual wearing a space suit in hard vacuum!
Use a simple layout tool (like google sketch up) and send it to a local fab shop. Might be kinda spendy but if you need a large cutout for a electronic display (not just simple round gauges) it would be a better solution.
Back in the day when we used to build Valve amplifiers with aluminuim chassis we used the same type of punch to put valve hole and other holes in the chassis.
Back in my day we very successfully used hole saws and laid out the small holes with a very accurate blueprint. Made some nice panels and never missed a hole. Oh and we had a slow speed floor mounted “huge” drill press.
Are those cut-outs sometimes hard to remove from the punch? If so maybe try compressed air. I know compressed air works REALLY good for separating nested 5-gallon buckets, trash cans, etc..
Will this tool also work for a fiberglass panel, about 3/16th inch thick? If it cuts and doesn't crush the fiberglass around the hole it seems it would work well.
The 4 holes, shouldn't those be drilled after the panel in installed in the air frame, so you know it is level? or is that adjustable to center? clever tool
Why would you not use the instrument as a template? Never built a plane, but I've used that method dozens of times and always get perfect fit...if you know how to center your punch correctly in the instrument holes.
You say that hole saws are impractical because the appropriate sizes are not typically locally available. The Dies/punch (appropriate size or not) is even LESS likely to be available. Where do you get them?
Gwen the sizes we need for standard instruments are available from Spruce or any good aviation supplier If issues locating then email me at HomebuiltHELP
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Thank you so much for this great video!! Just helped my favorite son do 13 holes in 182 panel to modernize the 1956 panel with punch and template. .120” was at limits but the punch held up.. Thank you, Paul.
Two tips to consider perhaps. First is the cleanest side of the hole will be whichever side the smaller part of the knockout die is placed - the backside might need a touch with a rat tail file to get back to flat. Second is knockout dies last a good long time - if you use some oil. Oil the threads and the face/edges of the small diameter [lightly] to prevent galling or edge chipping if going through thicker steel. Tool not only lasts longer, but you get a cleaner hole. First thing I do when I get a new bolt/drawstud for knockout dies is to put some gear oil on those threads so it's ready to go.
Glad I found this channel your information is a huge time saver.... thank you
Awesome 👍 job guys I appreciate all your Tips and video's keep up the great work and Builds 🤙
I did my instrument panel, using Front Panel Express - free download layout software that includes pricing. My panel cost $107US (small 1 seat homebuilt) CNC accurate, with choice of thickness and finishes.
When doing a complete panel, it would probably be prudent to mark the positions of the holes with a Sharpie. That way, if you make a measuring error, (or just forget what goes where), you'll see it before doing any cutting.
I have been considering buying a kit down the road and have many questions on how things are down and you answer a lot of them on this channel. Love your videos.
I'm laughing pretty hard at myself. Long time Airframe mechanic, just blew at my computer screen, trying to get those shavings off at 8:45
Very gooooooood
Thanks
Dear old Alan Bean was giggling on the moon, "Hey, I just tried blowing the dust off the camera lens!' Pretty ineffectual wearing a space suit in hard vacuum!
I just had to stop myself from doing that 🤣
Thanks for all your self-help videos.
The best tool is a CNC vertical mill for doing panel, and I wish I could have had one years ago when I worked as a structural mechanic on aircraft.
Use a simple layout tool (like google sketch up) and send it to a local fab shop. Might be kinda spendy but if you need a large cutout for a electronic display (not just simple round gauges) it would be a better solution.
Super cool tip!!! thanks! I just need to change the panel of my C172 to add an EFIS, so will look for these tools on ebay. Much appreciated!
What a great video! How do you treat the edges of the panel for a professional smooth straight finish? Thanks,
Well Done! Thanks. (love your videos)
Back in the day when we used to build Valve amplifiers with aluminuim chassis we used the same type of punch to put valve hole and other holes in the chassis.
Hey I have boxes of vac tubes and a BC-610-E WW2 transmitter full of giant tubes. Love to see them glow.
Back in my day we very successfully used hole saws and laid out the small holes with a very accurate blueprint. Made some nice panels and never missed a hole. Oh and we had a slow speed floor mounted “huge” drill press.
Loving these videos.
Great video, thank you.
Are those cut-outs sometimes hard to remove from the punch?
If so maybe try compressed air.
I know compressed air works REALLY good for separating nested 5-gallon buckets, trash cans, etc..
How did you cut the the shape of the instrument panel?
Will this tool also work for a fiberglass panel, about 3/16th inch thick? If it cuts and doesn't crush the fiberglass around the hole it seems it would work well.
So what is a good process if your panel is fiberglass? Can you still use a punch without shattering the glass?
Note that the oil pressure and temp gauges in antique or classic aircraft are typically 2.25” not 2.5”. I won’t make that mistake again.
The 4 holes, shouldn't those be drilled after the panel in installed in the air frame, so you know it is level? or is that adjustable to center? clever tool
Does anyone know if that punch tool will work on a composite panel?
Why would you not use the instrument as a template? Never built a plane, but I've used that method dozens of times and always get perfect fit...if you know how to center your punch correctly in the instrument holes.
Nice tool, would be more handy if it would punch the small holes too
Is a typical panel .063? What alloy typically? 6061-T6 ? 2024? Old Cessna 182. Thanks.
use 6061. 063 is good
Hey, I think I have a copy of that magazine.
Greenlee Hole cutter kit
Why not use normal measurements like metric system? Whats with all the fractions?
I like the class exelent
You say that hole saws are impractical because the appropriate sizes are not typically locally available. The Dies/punch (appropriate size or not) is even LESS likely to be available. Where do you get them?
Gwen the sizes we need for standard instruments are available from Spruce or any good aviation supplier
If issues locating then email me at HomebuiltHELP
Thanks Jon. Did a search (nothing local). Found also on ATS and Amazon [but should have made a mention of sources in the video]
i DO IT THE EASY WAY, i USE MY HOME BUILT CNC MACHINE
Slick tool.
Laser cutting is cheap and accurate.