Very cool. I was actually reading comments on a different video and had never heard the term "RMR cut" so I searched it and found this fantastic video. I enjoyed it quite a bit, thanks!
Get you a 6-32 thread guage with the proper pitch and major and minor diameter of the holes you are tapping. That will make dialing in the cutter comp on that thread mill a lot easier. I always use guage pins to check the minor diameter on tapped holes, because usually as long as the geometry on the tapping tool is correct, if the minor diameter is correct the major diameter is usually good too.
I actually own a nice thread gage for 6-32. To be honest, after many hundreds of holes threadmilled for 6-32 I have actually found myself happier checking the fit with the actual hardware I use than my thread gauge. With the servo upgrades I get much less heat built up in the table and now I can finally keep a consistent thread from turning the machine on to hours later of cutting. A video update will be coming fairly soon with all of the upgrades
I absolutely love linuxCNC. I have since upgraded to 2.8 and am now using a new GUI that looks a ton like PathPilot. Much more modern and better looking in my opinion
Any chance I can get a email of the dimensions? Unless you have a diagram so I can do one myself. I'll practice it on some bar stock until I'm happy to do my slide.
@@mpmachining7227 sammerdon1@gmail.com thanks man I really appreciate it. Yours turned out great. I hope with some luck I can do it without a cnc just manually. Hahah I have a DRO but this will not be east. Im worried about tye lugs and using small fragile end mill..
i saves us alot of moeny to learn to do milling ourselves and make our own setups. i hooked up a couple motors to an x-y vice and a cheap drill press, its been alot of fun. i dont need no jig to do any 80%. itw would be nice to learn how to do it propertly, i wish it was not so loud so i could turn up the rpm.
I just purchased a glock 22 gen 5, i couldn't find the mos version so i went with the standard one, im wanting red a dot sight i ordered the dovetail insert plate, but ive been reading where some said their red dot optics plate came off after firing, im hearing milling your slide is the best route to go, I've read reports even glocks mos edition red dot optics plates flew off around 300 rounds.
If you're looking to put a red dot on a handgun, the only way to do it is direct milling in my opinion. I don't say that because I offer milling and am trying to talk people into it, I offer milling because I started out doing this for my own slides after I was extremely unhappy with the MOS slides. In my opinion the dovetail mount is the worst of the 3 options, it sits extremely high on the firearm which causes an extremely unnatural point of aim and the only thing securing your optic to the slide is 2 screws with almost no thread engagement. The MOS is slightly better (especially with a quality adapter plate like the guys at C&H Precision make) but you are still relying on mostly thread engagement to hold the optic down. On the C&H plates I believe they do have a small shelf that the optic touches in the front and rear, but not nearly what would be found in a direct milled slide. On a slide that is machined specific for your optic, the optic is making direct contact along the entire front and rear edge with the slide which absorbs nearly 100% of any force from shooting, racking your slide from the optic or if you felt like using it as a hammer for some reason. The screws just prevent it from pulling up (there are next to no forces in the upward direction in normal circumstances) so they don't need to accomplish much. That being said, you're still getting thread engagement into the steel slide vs an anodized aluminum plate and the optic is going to sit the full 0.125" deep into the slide which gives the most natural feeling sight picture in my opinion. Send us an email at battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com or on our instagram/facebook if you're looking for someone to do some machine work. There are also a bunch of other good companies out there doing work also
We actually do not use the mounting posts on our cuts. Those posts were originally designed as recoil absorbing posts when optics were flush mounted to a slide using a plate. During recoil, the lateral forces of the recoil would all transfer into the mounting screws as the optic itself was not constrained in any way on a surface mounted plate. The recoil posts gave the optic something to act against to prevent sheering the mounting screws. In our case (and most cases for modern mounting options), the optic is mounted making firm contact in both the front and rear of the red dot with the slide. This completely eliminates the need for recoil posts as they would serve no function. There are still companies out there that choose to incorporate the posts into their direct milling but they really do not serve any purpose. Hope that answers your question!
Excellent video! I just got home from my shooting range and decided that I am definitely going to put a red dot on my Glock 21, like I have on my S@W Victory 22 and some of my long guns... and your video came up first in my research. This will be my first time to have to get a slide of mine milled, though, because all my other sighted guns have rail options. I've been hesitating because I also shoot 10 MM with a conversion barrel for my Glock 21, and am concerned about choosing the right Red Dot that would have the ability to handle all that recoil. I don't want to go through 3 or 4 (or even more) expensive sights every yea. Anyway, this video is very informative, thank you!
It's a slippery road you're headed down! Put a red dot on one handgun and all of a sudden you want one on all of them! Haha, for real though, it's one of the best upgrades you can spend your money on. As for red dot, you can never go wrong with any of the Trijicon line of optics (either the RMR or SRO). They are a little pricey but you will buy once cry once with them.
Awesome work man. Would you know the front radius for a Deltapoint pro? I can’t find anything on the inter web. The best I can measure is .053 arc height and 1.000 wide. Which equals 2.385 radius. I think it’s pretty close, but not a huge fan of close.
Well you were definitely close. But as you said, close is definitely not good enough when it comes to machining. The DPP has a front radius of 60mm which equates to 2.3622"
Need to machine a block that will slip into the inside of the slide to keep the slide rails from warping in. Unless you indicate the inside of the ejection port and verify the force youre applying isnt causing deformation, and set up a torque wrench to repeat that exact force on the vise, Id be wary. It would be even better to machine a fixture that could use clamps to apply all the force downward with a datum hole you could probe for quicker setups between different parts.
Is there a reason you thread milled the tapped hole instead of tapping it? Did you drill it through with the tap drill? Where did you get dimensions of the RMR? Care to share the location of the holes and radius sizes? Or send me a print?
The holes were drilled on the machine and threadmilled on it also. It's been a long time since I have watched this video but I may not have filmed all of the passes so the holes may have looked threaded beforehand. There are a few reasons I prefer threadmilling over tapping the holes. Some of them are the fact that the holes are so shallow that an unformed thread or two at the bottom of a hole would make a big difference in these holes, taps breaking are a bit of a nightmare on these slides and it allows me to control the fit of the threads. Send me an email and I'll gladly shoot over the drawing for an RMR
On this cut of your program, can you please tell what is the radius and how you find the starting point of the swing for the radius? The center point, center line start position.
Is it beneficial to have the front hubs for the optic cut? I’ve seen some people do it and some don’t. The ones do say it helps with the recoil… and of course the ones that don’t say that the optic is nice and tight in the slide so it doesn’t matter. I’m just going off basic logic and I could see it either way. But I do think there is a potential benefit of having the nubs because then all of the force of the recoil isn’t on just the 2 screws. Right?
Stay tuned here in the next week or so. I get this question easily once a week and it's time I just make a short video about it to clear some things up. Long story short, the front posts were originally designed for flush mounted optics (optics not mounted inside a pocket but mounted on top of a plate). In this case those posts are extremely important for the reason you mentioned. In the case of a slide custom cut for an optic, they are definitely not required nor do they perform any sort of function in my opinion.
@@mpmachining7227 interesting. Didn’t know that but thank you for taking the time to explain. And yea I think a video on that topic would be great if you get the question so frequently. I know I’d watch it!
Thank you for stopping by. Unfortunately I can't discuss prices or services directly on UA-cam without them deleting my videos. Shoot me an email over at battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com and I'll get you all the info you need.
Why dont you make post for the 2 screw holes for the rmr? It eliminate the hole into the extractor rod chamber, plus it aids the rmr to sit more securely?
That's a great question and I get it fairly often. For the second part of your comment, I make sure to never machine into the extractor bore. My depths are pretty tightly controlled to make sure that doesn't happen even without posts. For the "secure fit" part of your question, I'll give you my $0.02 on the topic. The pockets I machine for every red dot are as close to "perfect" as I can achieve within the limits of my machine. You can often install your red dot (with no screws) and shake the slide all around without the dot moving anywhere. Doing it that way will make sure that any and all forces that go into the red dot (if for example you wanted to rack your slide from your dot or the optic got smashed on something) transmit directly into the slide and absolutely none of the force is being taken up by the mounting hardware. That is about as secure as physically possible in my humble opinion. Often (almost always in fact) when a red dot pocket is machined with posts, the dot does not contact the posts at all. If the posts are machined to such a tight fit that they actually contact the holes in the optic, it almost always requires that the pocket be machined oversized so that contact on the front and back face do not overconstrain the pocket. In that case, rather than all of the force from an impact being directed into the slide through the full surface contact in the front and rear of the optic, it is now transfered into the slide by the small and thin walled bosses. This is still more than secure enough, but in my opinion, a much less rigid setup than a perfectly fitting pocket. I also have seen plenty of companies machine pockets that are a perfect fit with undersized bosses as to not overconstrain the pocket. In this case, the bosses provide no extra rigidity and just change the length of hardware required. This is all just my experience and opinion, but after machining them both ways (I still offer both), I am 100% convinced that the bosses are a waste of machining time and no more rigid.
@@mpmachining7227 very interesting to know. Thank you for your answer. Its stuff like these that makes the difference, through experience and trials i guess. Thank you.
Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment! By no means is my experience the end all be all of machining advice. After machining a couple hundred red dots this is just what I have learned and observed. I'm sure you could find plenty of people with opposite experiences though (the internet is great for that!)
Very old video but thank you! I have come quite a long way since doing the cuts this way (one of these days I'll finally get around to putting out a new video). But to get in touch you can either reach out through social media (MPMachiningUSA on FB and IG) or send an email over to sales@mpmachiningusa.com. Looking forward to hearing from you
Besides cutting the inset for the red dot, do you also do designer cut outs on the front of the slides? Seen some nifty cut a way designs that lighten the slide and look great from the Glock Store.
Absolutely. I actually do about an equal amount of cosmetic cuts (serrations, pockets, porting, chamfers, engraving, Cerakote, laser work etc) as I do red dot cuts. If you hop over to my instagram under this same name you can see a lot of my posts of the work I have done.
Dude awesome! I just purchased a Glock 20 and decided to buy a red dot online. A SwampFox KingSlayer at RMR specs. Didn't know it didn't fit directly on smh so either I can buy a RMR Glockvslide or pay you to mill whichevers cheaper. How much do you charge
Haha whatever works! This video is really due for a refresh. So much has changed since I filmed this in the process I'm doing and the upgrades to the machine
I haven't done any 1911 optics so far. I have measured a Stainless II before for an optic (the Holosun 507k/Shield RMSc footprint) and found it to be physically possible but a bit too little margin for error for my liking so I have passed on doing them so far
What's a good email for you? The RMR footprint is pretty easy to find on google but I can definitely send it over your way if you're having trouble finding one you trust
Koolertron 4.3 inch 1080P LCD Digital USB Microscope with 10X-220X Magnification Zoom,8 LED Adjustable Light,Camera Video Recorder for Phone Repair Soldering Tool Jewelry Appraisal Biologic Use www.amazon.com/dp/B07J4K3JV9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_W44XKD05MPDMKNT9NVDK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 That is the link to the one I purchased on Amazon. Love the thing and definitely would recommend it. As for cad models, every slide I have done I first started by making the stock slide model myself. There are plenty of free downloadable models out there but I just don't trust the dimensional accuracy of those so I made my own
That question comes up fairly often, I should really make a video about it at some point. In my experience (the explanation is a bit long), the front "recoil posts" do not add any additional registration to align the optic and certainly don't do anything to absorb recoil or impact into the optic. When I machine an optic into a slide, the tolerances I cold the cut to are plenty sufficient to ensure the optic self aligns (assisted by the tapered head machine screws I provide with each cut) with no need for the posts. As for recoil or shock mitigation, the optic is physically contacting both the front radius and the flat rear of the pocket so any forces that act on the optic are always transferred directly into the slide. Adding those posts at that point simply would be useless. Just my personal opinion and experience on the subject, certainly not against companies that choose to add them, but it's not something I have found to be necessary or worth the extra machining time.
Absolutely. Website isn't live yet for purchasing or placing orders but feel free to reach out via IG/email/Facebook at MPMachining on social media and sales@mpmachiningusa.com for email and we can get you squared away. I'm in NY
Those are typically called posts. I should really film a whole video on those and my opinion of them (I personally don't find them necessary at all) but they are not something I add to my cuts for a few reasons
@@mpmachining7227 I didn't realize that there are two different RMR cuts.. and I bought a 509t, and now I can't mount it. lol.... Gives me an excuse to buy another pistol I guess.
Unfortunately we aren't allowed to advertise prices on UA-cam due to their policies but if you send us an email at sales@mpmachiningusa.com we can get you squared away
Edit: never mind the video answered my question...thanks for the informative video. If anybody sees this and knows the answer I would appreciate you letting me know. I just got my pistol back after sending it off to get RMR cut and I noticed that I can see the extractor depressor plunger through one of the the tapped mounting holes... is this common? Because it seems like they drilled excessively deep.
It is something that I always avoid doing when milling the mounting holes. I really just don't like going through because it opens you up to problems if you choose the wrong length mounting screws. The fact that they drilled through the plunger channel really has no consequence and won't cause any problems as long as you make sure your mounting screws aren't so long that they are protruding into the plunger hole. I would hope that whoever you sent the slide out to knew this and either chose screws that were the right length or modified some screws to be the correct length. The quick test that you can do is to mount your RMR onto the slide, then remove the back plate and make sure the plunger freely moves out the back of the slide. If it does, then you have nothing to worry about. In the worst case, if they did provide a screw that was too long then it's fairly easy to shorten that screw using some basic hand tools (dremel if you have it or a belt sander or bench grinder or something). Not sure who did the work but as long as they sent you the correct screws then I definitely wouldn't worry about it. We also have a stock of correct length screws if you wanted to buy some rather than modifying the ones they sent you
Battle Resistant Outfitters Yeah that’s what I was thinking anyway thank you for the video and thank you even more for taking the time to reply.I also had some serrations cut and the person who did it left machine marks... if I sent my slide to you could you fix those? I’ll look on your website (if you have one)to see what you offer.
What actually limits the depth of the optic cut is the right hand (extractor side) thread depth. As it is, you only have about 0.12" of depth you can get that thread to go down until it hits the extractor plunger channel. So if you made the optic cut much deeper, there would no longer be enough depth to get good thread engagement.
Hello Sir, I am interested in learning how to get started CNC machining (gunsmithing like you), possibly for a second career after I retire from the military in a couple years. What’s a good place to start, at least regarding the CNC aspect?
Thank you so much for your service! What branch are you in? As for learning CNC, there are actually a ton of free paths you can take to get started. There are probably thousands of people who have found their way in machining thanks to UA-cam and the machining community. An amazing place to start is with John over at NYC CNC. If you go back 4-5 years ago on his videos and just start plugging through his videos, you can learn an incredible amount about machining and the computer side of things. He is definitely the reason I got into machining and there are a lot of people out there in the same boat. As far as machines go, that's a whole other can of worms. So much depends on your budget/how much you plan to use the machine and how much time you want to dedicate to it. I'd be more than happy to help you along the way though
@@mpmachining7227 That’s amazing that YT can provide so much. I’ve served in the Coast Guard for 20 years. I’m currently in the Middle East for the second time. It’s been a wild ride, but a great career. I bought a littlemachineshop mini lathe a few years ago to start learning about machining, but it’s not much more than a hobby right now. I have no CNC experience, but I know my way around computers enough to get started. Thanks a bunch for the encouragement and help!
What is the dimension from the back of the slide to the back edge of the cut? I’m gonna do this to my G17. Don’t worry I know what I’m doing, I’ve been a CNC programmer for 17 years lol.
I would highly recommend double checking for your own dimensions to ensure you don't inadvertently cut into the safety plunger hole or rear dovetail, but we have been using 0.658"
Price largely depends on the work you're getting done. Turn around time right now is just under a week for simple things like a red dot cut. If you wanted to add other slide work or Cerakote that usually adds a couple days to the lead time. Send me an email and I'll send you the full pricing list battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com
For the time being we don't offer any optic cuts for a 1911. The slide is too narrow to accept a direct mounted optic (the screw holes on the optic are wider than the slide is) and we aren't offering any plate system to do the mounting.
Great to see that work being done on a Glock 21 with some real stopping power, there way to many little 9mm guns being cut with less then ideal stopping power... :)
Thanks for stopping by. Send us over an email at battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com and I'll get you out a pricing list and I'm sure we can get you all squared away.
It depends on the slide and customer. Most of the slides that I cut get refinished in house with Cerakote. People who aren't interested in that have their choice of sourcing their own refinishing or having me cold blue the area for free just to give some corrosion protection. The cold blue certainly isn't a cosmetic finishing process so I only offer this on optic cuts and not other slide cuts
I'm sure they will come out with one sooner or later. In my honest opinion (certainly not just trying to boost business here), the MOS system is a terrible mounting system for an optic. I understand the convenience of being "universal" but it strongly falls into the "jack of all trades, master of none" in my mind. Very weak mounting mechanism with almost zero lateral support on the optic other than the screws. I'm sure it works for plenty of people out there, or Glock wouldn't still be selling them. But I would recommend highly against going with an MOS and just send your slide out to be machined directly for the optic you choose. Just my $0.02 here and I'm sure others will disagree, but I have heard of dozens of optics flying off of people's slides before and although I know it's a MUCH larger sample size, of the hundreds of optics I have machined (and tens of thousands others have done), I have yet to see a properly machined optic pocket fail.
I'm not sure what it was set at for this video because it was quite a long time ago. But the frrdd I use now are for 5 strepovers for the cutting padded then a total of 4 spring passes. It is definitely excessive and I could absolutely dial it up to fewer passes but there is some very noticeable deflection with this small of a tool and I prefer reliable threading over speed. As it is the total toolpaths only takes about a minute and a half for the 2 holes and I get hundreds of threads until it's time to replace the treadmill.
I only ever use carbide. Haven't ever run HSS in this machine that I remember. It's just not worth trying to save a couple bucks and buying 10x as many endmills
I make all of the CAD files myself for every slide I work on. There are some available on the internet but I have never trusted them to be dimensionally accurate enough for my purpose so I just create my own
I used calipers on a few of the less important dimensions. The majority of dimensions were taken on my surface plate with a height gage. All of the holes were sized using pin gages and depth micrometers then all of the wall thicknesses were measured with a micrometer that I couldn't easily reach in the height gage
Unfortunately I dont share slide CAD files. It's not that I have an issue sharing the information but for legal reasons. ITAR regulations is a bit of a grey area when it comes to firearm parts so I have to error on the side of caution when it comes to sharing information
I get this comment fairly often. I'm going to quote one of my responses to another comment but I really should make a separate video about it. I'll give you my $0.02 on the topic. The pockets I machine for every red dot are as close to "perfect" as I can achieve within the limits of my machine. You can often install your red dot (with no screws) and shake the slide all around without the dot moving anywhere. Doing it that way will make sure that any and all forces that go into the red dot (if for example you wanted to rack your slide from your dot or the optic got smashed on something) transmit directly into the slide and absolutely none of the force is being taken up by the mounting hardware. That is about as secure as physically possible in my humble opinion. Often (almost always in fact) when a red dot pocket is machined with posts, the dot does not contact the posts at all. If the posts are machined to such a tight fit that they actually contact the holes in the optic, it almost always requires that the pocket be machined oversized so that contact on the front and back face do not overconstrain the pocket. In that case, rather than all of the force from an impact being directed into the slide through the full surface contact in the front and rear of the optic, it is now transfered into the slide by the small and thin walled bosses. This is still more than secure enough, but in my opinion, a much less rigid setup than a perfectly fitting pocket. I also have seen plenty of companies machine pockets that are a perfect fit with undersized bosses as to not overconstrain the pocket. In this case, the bosses provide no extra rigidity and just change the length of hardware required. This is all just my experience and opinion, but after machining them both ways (I still offer both), I am 100% convinced that the bosses are a waste of machining time and no more rigid.
yea i am new to these rmr slides and i recently got one from rival arms which actually has the two front posts that are half circles with the rmr optic 1mm overhang each side but is very tight in the seat. I appreciate the knowledge on this as i am very new to these and have wondered about these posts but i see the seat fit is so tight the posts are not needed and if they are used its just not a good fit for the wide range of rmr optics.A vid on it would be nice i'd watch it but i get the gist.thank you. subbed@@mpmachining7227
Kind of a dumb question, but I am looking at getting a PM-30MV for a cnc conversion. I see a lot of guys use these stubby looking tool holders instead of the full length R8 shank ( 15:45 ). What are they called and why would you use them over R8? Thanks
Not a dumb question at all. They are called TTS holders from Tormach. They have basically become the "go to" for replacements of R8 tooling. It has a 3/4" straight shank at the top with a ground face that rests against the nose of the spindle. They sell a 3/4" R8 collet that goes in (and stays in) the R8 spindle thats a bit shorter than normal R8 collets. They do that to allow the tool holder to always contact the nose of the spindle which gives you great repeatability on the length of the tool. They are really quick and easy to change as you can see in the video and they allow you to measure tool heights off of the machine and put the tool length into your control. That is an awesome feature if you break a tool or want to replace a tool for some reason and the machine is running. If you have any questions as you go, feel free to let me know
I have done two so far (a few pictures on my instagram) and I'll be completely honest that I'm not in love with the optic. I think Trijicon swung and missed on this one in my humble opinion so I would still recommend a RMSc over the RMRcc any day. Window is extremely small, new mounting footprint that only accepts 4-40 or smaller hardware and a proprietary footprint (until someone decides to copy it). All for a price tag about 50% higher than other optics on the market. It's still a Trijicon so they are durable as anything out there, but that's about all they have going for them.
They are by far my favorite small optic on the market. Glass lens, aluminum body. Lowest profile of any dot out there so they cowitness (the body of the optic had a rear notch machined into it so you don't need a rear sight) with stock height iron sights and battery life that lasts years. I carry one on 4 personal guns with thousands of rounds and years of carry time with no issue and I have sold over 100 of them now to customers without ever having a complaint. If I had to choose some negatives they would be the fact that you have to remove the optic to replace the battery every couple years (the full size RMS doesn't have this issue) and the fact that the brightness is auto adjust only with no manual override. I have never had it show up too bright or too dim but the option would be nice. I basically always have a dozen or so in stock but they can be difficult to find sometimes online
Absolutely. Doing a dozen or so optic cuts a week plus all of the other cerakote/cut options out there. Reach out on out social media (MPMachiningUSA) or via email (sales@MPMachiningUSA.com) and we can get you squared away
I do optic cuts on just about every slide on the market. As for other machine work, it depends on the slide and what work it is. Some slides just don't lend themselves to getting work done to them. Reach out to me on social media (Facebook or Instagram accounts both have the same name as this UA-cam channel) or email at battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com
I haven't included a full build list in any of my videos yet. I put one in a few replys to comments along the way I know. As I go through with my upgrades in the next month I'll be sure to lay out a full build list. I'm also replacing all of my stepper motors with servos, so if you're looking to buy steppers and drivers, I'll have my old ones available if you want to save some money on them.
Also surprised you dont use any kind of coolant or oil while cutting. I am a CNC machinist and work on tight tolerance aerospace and electronic component parts. Most of what I cut is aircraft grade aluminum, but I do run different types of steel too. Do you not want to use coolant for gun smiting? Is there a reason behind using just air especially on steel where i always though coolant was even more important to use?
Honestly the first and foremost reason I run air only and not coolant is that I never bothered to set my machine up with a flood system. I very rarely cut aluminum or work hardening stainless steel in large enough quantity to miss it either. Aluminum definitely benefits much much more from flood coolant than your typical carbon steels. Stainless steel and titanium also do much better with flood than air blast. The air has worked surprisingly well for me (and some coolant mist when cutting aluminum) that I really don't miss flood coolant. That being said, if the machine had flood coolant I would definitely be running it on these parts
@@mpmachining7227 yes if you use coolant or at least some kind of oil like on a manual mill it should increase tool life and give you a better surface finish.
The only issue with cutting steel with no flood coolant and trying to add a soluble oil or run it like a manual mill is you run the very high risk of getting micro fractures in the carbide when the droplets of oil/coolant hit the hot tool. Unfortunately when running a cnc machine using HSM toolpaths, when it comes to coolant it's either all or nothing in my experience. I have honestly been extremely happy with both the surface finishes and tool life after the upgrades. Usually a boneheaded mistake breaks a tool before I ever hit flute wear issues. I tend to make the "occasional" mistake more often than I would like to admit
@@mpmachining7227 trust me i have scrapped many a part due to operator error lol. Every decent machinist with years of experience has done a bonehead mistake. When I first started a even crashed a machine or two... yikes. But as long as you learn from the mistakes and dont focus on failures you can get better from errors.
I couldn't have said it better myself. Nice to hear I'm not the only one who learns a lot more from the bad parts than the good ones. Machining is definitely a humbling experience and I absolutely love it. Even on my very small scale level
Man that was painful to watch. I always get the footprint from the manufacture. You should have made your jaws and not used parallels that’s a amateur move real machinist don’t take shortcuts.
Thanks for the comment. As I never have claimed to be a real machinist, it's always nice to have an expert in the comments. I'll have to write that down that a real machinist would never use a machinist parallel for a single op square part held in a vise, never would have known. As for the dimensions, again, thanks for chiming in with your expertise. You sound like someone who has also cut a few hundred slides before, I must have gotten different dimensions direct from the manufacturer than you did. Mine have the manufacturing tolerances built into the drawing. Obviously I wouldn't have to tell you, being a real machinist and all, but for the other viewers in the comments its important to know that going with manufacturing tolderenced drawings to cut your optics will give an unacceptable amount of clearance on the pocket and put all recoil forces into the screws, so never ever go with those dimensions. But obviously, I appreciate you stopping by and giving me advice. As for the video, it's certainly painful to watch and extremely old and an outdated process at this point. If I ever get into making free publicly available content for people again at the expense of my own time, I'll be sure to keep that in mind, I am about as far from being a real UA-camr as I am a real machinist and I certainly have a ton that I can improve.
Ive been learning Fusion for this very reason. Thanks for the great video!
A hole is a hole even if its a through hole. Doesn't make it a random hole. Not trying to be that guy, I appreciate the care you put into
Very cool. I was actually reading comments on a different video and had never heard the term "RMR cut" so I searched it and found this fantastic video. I enjoyed it quite a bit, thanks!
Absolutely glad to help. The videos are quite old at this point and one of these days I'll get around to doing a refresher.
Get you a 6-32 thread guage with the proper pitch and major and minor diameter of the holes you are tapping. That will make dialing in the cutter comp on that thread mill a lot easier. I always use guage pins to check the minor diameter on tapped holes, because usually as long as the geometry on the tapping tool is correct, if the minor diameter is correct the major diameter is usually good too.
I actually own a nice thread gage for 6-32. To be honest, after many hundreds of holes threadmilled for 6-32 I have actually found myself happier checking the fit with the actual hardware I use than my thread gauge. With the servo upgrades I get much less heat built up in the table and now I can finally keep a consistent thread from turning the machine on to hours later of cutting. A video update will be coming fairly soon with all of the upgrades
Nice mill! I like that you're using linux CNC!
I absolutely love linuxCNC. I have since upgraded to 2.8 and am now using a new GUI that looks a ton like PathPilot. Much more modern and better looking in my opinion
Wow. I've only tapped holes where the work is fixed and you turn the tap. Here the entire bed rotates around the cutting tool. I admire machinists.
@@mpmachining7227 yeah, a lot of people bash it because it's open source but I think it's better than a lot of paid options
I completely agree. It is so much better than Mach 3/4 in my opinion
Great video really shows the step by step I was looking for this inspires me more to become a gunsmith
Great video! I will be RMR'ing my G21 soon.
You will be very happy with it. An optic makes such a huge difference in a handgun
Any chance I can get a email of the dimensions? Unless you have a diagram so I can do one myself. I'll practice it on some bar stock until I'm happy to do my slide.
What's your email? I'll send over the PDF
@@mpmachining7227 sammerdon1@gmail.com thanks man I really appreciate it. Yours turned out great. I hope with some luck I can do it without a cnc just manually. Hahah I have a DRO but this will not be east. Im worried about tye lugs and using small fragile end mill..
Sammerdon1@gmail.com
i saves us alot of moeny to learn to do milling ourselves and make our own setups. i hooked up a couple motors to an x-y vice and a cheap drill press, its been alot of fun. i dont need no jig to do any 80%. itw would be nice to learn how to do it propertly, i wish it was not so loud so i could turn up the rpm.
I just purchased a glock 22 gen 5, i couldn't find the mos version so i went with the standard one, im wanting red a dot sight i ordered the dovetail insert plate, but ive been reading where some said their red dot optics plate came off after firing, im hearing milling your slide is the best route to go, I've read reports even glocks mos edition red dot optics plates flew off around 300 rounds.
If you're looking to put a red dot on a handgun, the only way to do it is direct milling in my opinion. I don't say that because I offer milling and am trying to talk people into it, I offer milling because I started out doing this for my own slides after I was extremely unhappy with the MOS slides.
In my opinion the dovetail mount is the worst of the 3 options, it sits extremely high on the firearm which causes an extremely unnatural point of aim and the only thing securing your optic to the slide is 2 screws with almost no thread engagement.
The MOS is slightly better (especially with a quality adapter plate like the guys at C&H Precision make) but you are still relying on mostly thread engagement to hold the optic down. On the C&H plates I believe they do have a small shelf that the optic touches in the front and rear, but not nearly what would be found in a direct milled slide.
On a slide that is machined specific for your optic, the optic is making direct contact along the entire front and rear edge with the slide which absorbs nearly 100% of any force from shooting, racking your slide from the optic or if you felt like using it as a hammer for some reason. The screws just prevent it from pulling up (there are next to no forces in the upward direction in normal circumstances) so they don't need to accomplish much. That being said, you're still getting thread engagement into the steel slide vs an anodized aluminum plate and the optic is going to sit the full 0.125" deep into the slide which gives the most natural feeling sight picture in my opinion.
Send us an email at battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com or on our instagram/facebook if you're looking for someone to do some machine work. There are also a bunch of other good companies out there doing work also
what happened to the two protruding posts in front that I normally see on all RMR cuts?
We actually do not use the mounting posts on our cuts. Those posts were originally designed as recoil absorbing posts when optics were flush mounted to a slide using a plate. During recoil, the lateral forces of the recoil would all transfer into the mounting screws as the optic itself was not constrained in any way on a surface mounted plate. The recoil posts gave the optic something to act against to prevent sheering the mounting screws. In our case (and most cases for modern mounting options), the optic is mounted making firm contact in both the front and rear of the red dot with the slide. This completely eliminates the need for recoil posts as they would serve no function. There are still companies out there that choose to incorporate the posts into their direct milling but they really do not serve any purpose. Hope that answers your question!
Cool video, I just got a new Glock 19 gen 5 definitely need to get my slide milled for a red dot !!
Congratulations! Contact me at battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com if you need to get it done and we can square you away
Excellent video! I just got home from my shooting range and decided that I am definitely going to put a red dot on my Glock 21, like I have on my S@W Victory 22 and some of my long guns... and your video came up first in my research. This will be my first time to have to get a slide of mine milled, though, because all my other sighted guns have rail options. I've been hesitating because I also shoot 10 MM with a conversion barrel for my Glock 21, and am concerned about choosing the right Red Dot that would have the ability to handle all that recoil. I don't want to go through 3 or 4 (or even more) expensive sights every yea. Anyway, this video is very informative, thank you!
It's a slippery road you're headed down! Put a red dot on one handgun and all of a sudden you want one on all of them! Haha, for real though, it's one of the best upgrades you can spend your money on.
As for red dot, you can never go wrong with any of the Trijicon line of optics (either the RMR or SRO). They are a little pricey but you will buy once cry once with them.
Awesome work man. Would you know the front radius for a Deltapoint pro? I can’t find anything on the inter web. The best I can measure is .053 arc height and 1.000 wide. Which equals 2.385 radius. I think it’s pretty close, but not a huge fan of close.
Well you were definitely close. But as you said, close is definitely not good enough when it comes to machining. The DPP has a front radius of 60mm which equates to 2.3622"
Where did you get the plans for your enclosure?
@@scottportocarrero I actually just drew it up and built it myself.
Need to machine a block that will slip into the inside of the slide to keep the slide rails from warping in. Unless you indicate the inside of the ejection port and verify the force youre applying isnt causing deformation, and set up a torque wrench to repeat that exact force on the vise, Id be wary. It would be even better to machine a fixture that could use clamps to apply all the force downward with a datum hole you could probe for quicker setups between different parts.
Is there a reason you thread milled the tapped hole instead of tapping it?
Did you drill it through with the tap drill?
Where did you get dimensions of the RMR? Care to share the location of the holes and radius sizes? Or send me a print?
The holes were drilled on the machine and threadmilled on it also. It's been a long time since I have watched this video but I may not have filmed all of the passes so the holes may have looked threaded beforehand.
There are a few reasons I prefer threadmilling over tapping the holes. Some of them are the fact that the holes are so shallow that an unformed thread or two at the bottom of a hole would make a big difference in these holes, taps breaking are a bit of a nightmare on these slides and it allows me to control the fit of the threads.
Send me an email and I'll gladly shoot over the drawing for an RMR
On this cut of your program, can you please tell what is the radius and how you find the starting point of the swing for the radius? The center point, center line start position.
Is it beneficial to have the front hubs for the optic cut?
I’ve seen some people do it and some don’t.
The ones do say it helps with the recoil… and of course the ones that don’t say that the optic is nice and tight in the slide so it doesn’t matter.
I’m just going off basic logic and I could see it either way. But I do think there is a potential benefit of having the nubs because then all of the force of the recoil isn’t on just the 2 screws. Right?
Stay tuned here in the next week or so. I get this question easily once a week and it's time I just make a short video about it to clear some things up.
Long story short, the front posts were originally designed for flush mounted optics (optics not mounted inside a pocket but mounted on top of a plate). In this case those posts are extremely important for the reason you mentioned. In the case of a slide custom cut for an optic, they are definitely not required nor do they perform any sort of function in my opinion.
@@mpmachining7227 interesting. Didn’t know that but thank you for taking the time to explain.
And yea I think a video on that topic would be great if you get the question so frequently. I know I’d watch it!
Nice work how much would something like that Cost
Thank you for stopping by. Unfortunately I can't discuss prices or services directly on UA-cam without them deleting my videos. Shoot me an email over at battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com and I'll get you all the info you need.
That’s fckin awesome. Want to get this done for my 43x standard non-mos.
Feel free to reach out at Sales@mpmachiningusa.com or visit on Facebook or Instagram
Why dont you make post for the 2 screw holes for the rmr? It eliminate the hole into the extractor rod chamber, plus it aids the rmr to sit more securely?
That's a great question and I get it fairly often. For the second part of your comment, I make sure to never machine into the extractor bore. My depths are pretty tightly controlled to make sure that doesn't happen even without posts.
For the "secure fit" part of your question, I'll give you my $0.02 on the topic. The pockets I machine for every red dot are as close to "perfect" as I can achieve within the limits of my machine. You can often install your red dot (with no screws) and shake the slide all around without the dot moving anywhere. Doing it that way will make sure that any and all forces that go into the red dot (if for example you wanted to rack your slide from your dot or the optic got smashed on something) transmit directly into the slide and absolutely none of the force is being taken up by the mounting hardware. That is about as secure as physically possible in my humble opinion.
Often (almost always in fact) when a red dot pocket is machined with posts, the dot does not contact the posts at all. If the posts are machined to such a tight fit that they actually contact the holes in the optic, it almost always requires that the pocket be machined oversized so that contact on the front and back face do not overconstrain the pocket. In that case, rather than all of the force from an impact being directed into the slide through the full surface contact in the front and rear of the optic, it is now transfered into the slide by the small and thin walled bosses. This is still more than secure enough, but in my opinion, a much less rigid setup than a perfectly fitting pocket. I also have seen plenty of companies machine pockets that are a perfect fit with undersized bosses as to not overconstrain the pocket. In this case, the bosses provide no extra rigidity and just change the length of hardware required.
This is all just my experience and opinion, but after machining them both ways (I still offer both), I am 100% convinced that the bosses are a waste of machining time and no more rigid.
@@mpmachining7227 very interesting to know. Thank you for your answer. Its stuff like these that makes the difference, through experience and trials i guess. Thank you.
Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment! By no means is my experience the end all be all of machining advice. After machining a couple hundred red dots this is just what I have learned and observed. I'm sure you could find plenty of people with opposite experiences though (the internet is great for that!)
Amazing work dude. How can I get in contact with you to self a slide for milling? Would love to get some work done.
Very old video but thank you! I have come quite a long way since doing the cuts this way (one of these days I'll finally get around to putting out a new video).
But to get in touch you can either reach out through social media (MPMachiningUSA on FB and IG) or send an email over to sales@mpmachiningusa.com.
Looking forward to hearing from you
Besides cutting the inset for the red dot, do you also do designer cut outs on the front of the slides? Seen some nifty cut a way designs that lighten the slide and look great from the Glock Store.
Absolutely. I actually do about an equal amount of cosmetic cuts (serrations, pockets, porting, chamfers, engraving, Cerakote, laser work etc) as I do red dot cuts. If you hop over to my instagram under this same name you can see a lot of my posts of the work I have done.
Dude awesome! I just purchased a Glock 20 and decided to buy a red dot online. A SwampFox KingSlayer at RMR specs. Didn't know it didn't fit directly on smh so either I can buy a RMR Glockvslide or pay you to mill whichevers cheaper. How much do you charge
Me: grinder,file, Ryobi drill, duct tape. See how this goes. Good video
Haha whatever works! This video is really due for a refresh. So much has changed since I filmed this in the process I'm doing and the upgrades to the machine
Have you done any red dots on Kimber 1911's. I'm looking to add a small red dot to my Kimber Crimson Trace Ultra Carry II.
I haven't done any 1911 optics so far. I have measured a Stainless II before for an optic (the Holosun 507k/Shield RMSc footprint) and found it to be physically possible but a bit too little margin for error for my liking so I have passed on doing them so far
I was wondering which mounting plate did you use to put the Trijicon onto it? Mine has the same footprint but mine in a Glock 22 gen 3.
Where are you located? I have glock 43x need to be cut and I want to install holosun HS507k red dot. How would you charge?
I am in Ny. Cutting your slide for a red dot is no problem at all, reach out to me at sales@mpmachiningusa.com and we can discuss details
Hi my friend
Look amazing work.
I wanted to mill my glock 19 slide.
Would you care to share a blueprint for a RMR type 2 cut ?
Absolutely. What's a good email to send it to?
@@mpmachining7227 thx a lot !!!
Was curious if you could share the blueprint file for the rmr cut as well. Awesome video btw!
What's a good email for you? The RMR footprint is pretty easy to find on google but I can definitely send it over your way if you're having trouble finding one you trust
@@mpmachining7227 ofer199@gmail.com thx a lot buddy
I have the same exact one, Glock 21 sf gen 3, if possible could I get my slide milled and if so what the price for it to send it to you
We can absolutely take care of that for you. Send an email over to sales@mpmachiningusa.com and we will get you squared away
Nice work! Can you do this for a SCCY CPX-2 slide? I have one already milled you can copy.
Im pretty sure we can work that out. Send me an email at battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com
@@mpmachining7227 hello I'm interested in getting a glock 19x slide milled for a trijicon Rmr can you help with that
What model Koolertron microscope are you using? Where did you get the CAD model of the slide?
Koolertron 4.3 inch 1080P LCD Digital USB Microscope with 10X-220X Magnification Zoom,8 LED Adjustable Light,Camera Video Recorder for Phone Repair Soldering Tool Jewelry Appraisal Biologic Use www.amazon.com/dp/B07J4K3JV9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_W44XKD05MPDMKNT9NVDK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That is the link to the one I purchased on Amazon. Love the thing and definitely would recommend it.
As for cad models, every slide I have done I first started by making the stock slide model myself. There are plenty of free downloadable models out there but I just don't trust the dimensional accuracy of those so I made my own
Hello I'm interested in getting a glock 19x slide milled for a trijicon rmr can you help with that
Absolutely. Send us an email at sales@mpmachiningusa.com and we can get you taken care of
Why did you leave out the posts at the front of the cut?
That question comes up fairly often, I should really make a video about it at some point. In my experience (the explanation is a bit long), the front "recoil posts" do not add any additional registration to align the optic and certainly don't do anything to absorb recoil or impact into the optic. When I machine an optic into a slide, the tolerances I cold the cut to are plenty sufficient to ensure the optic self aligns (assisted by the tapered head machine screws I provide with each cut) with no need for the posts. As for recoil or shock mitigation, the optic is physically contacting both the front radius and the flat rear of the pocket so any forces that act on the optic are always transferred directly into the slide. Adding those posts at that point simply would be useless.
Just my personal opinion and experience on the subject, certainly not against companies that choose to add them, but it's not something I have found to be necessary or worth the extra machining time.
Where are you located?...assuming you do this for the public?...website, IG?
Absolutely. Website isn't live yet for purchasing or placing orders but feel free to reach out via IG/email/Facebook at MPMachining on social media and sales@mpmachiningusa.com for email and we can get you squared away. I'm in NY
What is it called when the RMR holes are raised like lugs, and have screws that go into the middle of it? Does that have a different name?
Those are typically called posts. I should really film a whole video on those and my opinion of them (I personally don't find them necessary at all) but they are not something I add to my cuts for a few reasons
@@mpmachining7227 I didn't realize that there are two different RMR cuts.. and I bought a 509t, and now I can't mount it. lol.... Gives me an excuse to buy another pistol I guess.
Curious about how much you charge for milling an rmr and front cocking serrations on a glock 17 upper?
Unfortunately we aren't allowed to advertise prices on UA-cam due to their policies but if you send us an email at sales@mpmachiningusa.com we can get you squared away
Edit: never mind the video answered my question...thanks for the informative video.
If anybody sees this and knows the answer I would appreciate you letting me know. I just got my pistol back after sending it off to get RMR cut and I noticed that I can see the extractor depressor plunger through one of the the tapped mounting holes... is this common? Because it seems like they drilled excessively deep.
It is something that I always avoid doing when milling the mounting holes. I really just don't like going through because it opens you up to problems if you choose the wrong length mounting screws. The fact that they drilled through the plunger channel really has no consequence and won't cause any problems as long as you make sure your mounting screws aren't so long that they are protruding into the plunger hole. I would hope that whoever you sent the slide out to knew this and either chose screws that were the right length or modified some screws to be the correct length.
The quick test that you can do is to mount your RMR onto the slide, then remove the back plate and make sure the plunger freely moves out the back of the slide. If it does, then you have nothing to worry about. In the worst case, if they did provide a screw that was too long then it's fairly easy to shorten that screw using some basic hand tools (dremel if you have it or a belt sander or bench grinder or something).
Not sure who did the work but as long as they sent you the correct screws then I definitely wouldn't worry about it. We also have a stock of correct length screws if you wanted to buy some rather than modifying the ones they sent you
Battle Resistant Outfitters Yeah that’s what I was thinking anyway thank you for the video and thank you even more for taking the time to reply.I also had some serrations cut and the person who did it left machine marks... if I sent my slide to you could you fix those? I’ll look on your website (if you have one)to see what you offer.
Shoot me an email over at battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com. I'm sure we can get you sorted out
Battle Resistant Outfitters will do but it will be tomorrow/Monday. Thanks.
Can you go deeper than a 1/8” depth? I’m just curious as to how Zev can get there cuts so low that can use stock height sights.
What actually limits the depth of the optic cut is the right hand (extractor side) thread depth. As it is, you only have about 0.12" of depth you can get that thread to go down until it hits the extractor plunger channel. So if you made the optic cut much deeper, there would no longer be enough depth to get good thread engagement.
Got it, thanks for the explanation.
Hello Sir, I am interested in learning how to get started CNC machining (gunsmithing like you), possibly for a second career after I retire from the military in a couple years. What’s a good place to start, at least regarding the CNC aspect?
Thank you so much for your service! What branch are you in?
As for learning CNC, there are actually a ton of free paths you can take to get started. There are probably thousands of people who have found their way in machining thanks to UA-cam and the machining community. An amazing place to start is with John over at NYC CNC. If you go back 4-5 years ago on his videos and just start plugging through his videos, you can learn an incredible amount about machining and the computer side of things.
He is definitely the reason I got into machining and there are a lot of people out there in the same boat. As far as machines go, that's a whole other can of worms. So much depends on your budget/how much you plan to use the machine and how much time you want to dedicate to it. I'd be more than happy to help you along the way though
@@mpmachining7227 That’s amazing that YT can provide so much. I’ve served in the Coast Guard for 20 years. I’m currently in the Middle East for the second time. It’s been a wild ride, but a great career.
I bought a littlemachineshop mini lathe a few years ago to start learning about machining, but it’s not much more than a hobby right now. I have no CNC experience, but I know my way around computers enough to get started. Thanks a bunch for the encouragement and help!
What is the dimension from the back of the slide to the back edge of the cut? I’m gonna do this to my G17. Don’t worry I know what I’m doing, I’ve been a CNC programmer for 17 years lol.
I would highly recommend double checking for your own dimensions to ensure you don't inadvertently cut into the safety plunger hole or rear dovetail, but we have been using 0.658"
@@mpmachining7227 perfect, thanks!
how much to mill a glock 19 gen 3 and whats the turn around like in time sent back?
Price largely depends on the work you're getting done. Turn around time right now is just under a week for simple things like a red dot cut. If you wanted to add other slide work or Cerakote that usually adds a couple days to the lead time. Send me an email and I'll send you the full pricing list battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com
Do you offer the RMR cut on a 1911 slide?
For the time being we don't offer any optic cuts for a 1911. The slide is too narrow to accept a direct mounted optic (the screw holes on the optic are wider than the slide is) and we aren't offering any plate system to do the mounting.
Great to see that work being done on a Glock 21 with some real stopping power, there way to many little 9mm guns being cut with less then ideal stopping power... :)
I need an rmr and front serrations on a 34. Do you have a website with basic prices?
Thanks for stopping by. Send us over an email at battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com and I'll get you out a pricing list and I'm sure we can get you all squared away.
@@mpmachining7227 thanks.
Lets use this email. Randyfreiberg@gmail.com
Did you get put a nitride finish on the slide after milling it or did you apply something like tool black to the optic cut?
It depends on the slide and customer. Most of the slides that I cut get refinished in house with Cerakote. People who aren't interested in that have their choice of sourcing their own refinishing or having me cold blue the area for free just to give some corrosion protection. The cold blue certainly isn't a cosmetic finishing process so I only offer this on optic cuts and not other slide cuts
Sending my Slide to Lone Wolf to get it milled for $99.
If only there was a glock 21 gen 5 mos, idk why there’s not one
I'm sure they will come out with one sooner or later. In my honest opinion (certainly not just trying to boost business here), the MOS system is a terrible mounting system for an optic. I understand the convenience of being "universal" but it strongly falls into the "jack of all trades, master of none" in my mind. Very weak mounting mechanism with almost zero lateral support on the optic other than the screws. I'm sure it works for plenty of people out there, or Glock wouldn't still be selling them. But I would recommend highly against going with an MOS and just send your slide out to be machined directly for the optic you choose.
Just my $0.02 here and I'm sure others will disagree, but I have heard of dozens of optics flying off of people's slides before and although I know it's a MUCH larger sample size, of the hundreds of optics I have machined (and tens of thousands others have done), I have yet to see a properly machined optic pocket fail.
badass dude
How many stepovers did you take for the threads?
I'm not sure what it was set at for this video because it was quite a long time ago. But the frrdd I use now are for 5 strepovers for the cutting padded then a total of 4 spring passes. It is definitely excessive and I could absolutely dial it up to fewer passes but there is some very noticeable deflection with this small of a tool and I prefer reliable threading over speed. As it is the total toolpaths only takes about a minute and a half for the 2 holes and I get hundreds of threads until it's time to replace the treadmill.
@@mpmachining7227 I’m with you on that. I did some 4-40 threads for xometry test part and did 3 spring passes. Good stuff here thanks for sharing.
Are you using HSS or carbide bits?
I only ever use carbide. Haven't ever run HSS in this machine that I remember. It's just not worth trying to save a couple bucks and buying 10x as many endmills
@@mpmachining7227 Gotcha, thanks for the quick reply. I know the Glock slides are hardened so I asummed carbide would be the way to go.
Where did you get the CAD file? Or did you take measurements on the slide and make it yourself? I’m looking to make some chips of my own...
I make all of the CAD files myself for every slide I work on. There are some available on the internet but I have never trusted them to be dimensionally accurate enough for my purpose so I just create my own
@@mpmachining7227 The internal features/dimensions seem like a pain to measure. You used calipers for that?
I used calipers on a few of the less important dimensions. The majority of dimensions were taken on my surface plate with a height gage. All of the holes were sized using pin gages and depth micrometers then all of the wall thicknesses were measured with a micrometer that I couldn't easily reach in the height gage
@@mpmachining7227 I’ll be doing that for my M&P m2.0 compact. Would you mind sharing your cad files? I can send you an email if so.
Unfortunately I dont share slide CAD files. It's not that I have an issue sharing the information but for legal reasons. ITAR regulations is a bit of a grey area when it comes to firearm parts so I have to error on the side of caution when it comes to sharing information
why doesn't it have the little nubs on the top ?
I get this comment fairly often. I'm going to quote one of my responses to another comment but I really should make a separate video about it.
I'll give you my $0.02 on the topic. The pockets I machine for every red dot are as close to "perfect" as I can achieve within the limits of my machine. You can often install your red dot (with no screws) and shake the slide all around without the dot moving anywhere. Doing it that way will make sure that any and all forces that go into the red dot (if for example you wanted to rack your slide from your dot or the optic got smashed on something) transmit directly into the slide and absolutely none of the force is being taken up by the mounting hardware. That is about as secure as physically possible in my humble opinion.
Often (almost always in fact) when a red dot pocket is machined with posts, the dot does not contact the posts at all. If the posts are machined to such a tight fit that they actually contact the holes in the optic, it almost always requires that the pocket be machined oversized so that contact on the front and back face do not overconstrain the pocket. In that case, rather than all of the force from an impact being directed into the slide through the full surface contact in the front and rear of the optic, it is now transfered into the slide by the small and thin walled bosses. This is still more than secure enough, but in my opinion, a much less rigid setup than a perfectly fitting pocket. I also have seen plenty of companies machine pockets that are a perfect fit with undersized bosses as to not overconstrain the pocket. In this case, the bosses provide no extra rigidity and just change the length of hardware required.
This is all just my experience and opinion, but after machining them both ways (I still offer both), I am 100% convinced that the bosses are a waste of machining time and no more rigid.
yea i am new to these rmr slides and i recently got one from rival arms which actually has the two front posts that are half circles with the rmr optic 1mm overhang each side but is very tight in the seat. I appreciate the knowledge on this as i am very new to these and have wondered about these posts but i see the seat fit is so tight the posts are not needed and if they are used its just not a good fit for the wide range of rmr optics.A vid on it would be nice i'd watch it but i get the gist.thank you. subbed@@mpmachining7227
Kind of a dumb question, but I am looking at getting a PM-30MV for a cnc conversion. I see a lot of guys use these stubby looking tool holders instead of the full length R8 shank ( 15:45 ). What are they called and why would you use them over R8? Thanks
Not a dumb question at all. They are called TTS holders from Tormach. They have basically become the "go to" for replacements of R8 tooling. It has a 3/4" straight shank at the top with a ground face that rests against the nose of the spindle. They sell a 3/4" R8 collet that goes in (and stays in) the R8 spindle thats a bit shorter than normal R8 collets. They do that to allow the tool holder to always contact the nose of the spindle which gives you great repeatability on the length of the tool. They are really quick and easy to change as you can see in the video and they allow you to measure tool heights off of the machine and put the tool length into your control. That is an awesome feature if you break a tool or want to replace a tool for some reason and the machine is running. If you have any questions as you go, feel free to let me know
I love my tormach tts tooling for my pm25mv.
Do you have a blueprint of rmr footprint you can provide. It's really hard to get it in europe
You mean the cam files ?
Way cool, Are you milling a 43/43x/48 for a RMRcc yet?
I have done two so far (a few pictures on my instagram) and I'll be completely honest that I'm not in love with the optic. I think Trijicon swung and missed on this one in my humble opinion so I would still recommend a RMSc over the RMRcc any day. Window is extremely small, new mounting footprint that only accepts 4-40 or smaller hardware and a proprietary footprint (until someone decides to copy it). All for a price tag about 50% higher than other optics on the market.
It's still a Trijicon so they are durable as anything out there, but that's about all they have going for them.
@@mpmachining7227 PLEASE tell me more about the RMSc. I can not find much info about it.
They are by far my favorite small optic on the market. Glass lens, aluminum body. Lowest profile of any dot out there so they cowitness (the body of the optic had a rear notch machined into it so you don't need a rear sight) with stock height iron sights and battery life that lasts years. I carry one on 4 personal guns with thousands of rounds and years of carry time with no issue and I have sold over 100 of them now to customers without ever having a complaint.
If I had to choose some negatives they would be the fact that you have to remove the optic to replace the battery every couple years (the full size RMS doesn't have this issue) and the fact that the brightness is auto adjust only with no manual override. I have never had it show up too bright or too dim but the option would be nice. I basically always have a dozen or so in stock but they can be difficult to find sometimes online
@@mpmachining7227 So do you have any in stock?
502 dash Five 51 dash 59 six nine
@@jsimpson8018 I have plenty in stock. Shoot me an email at battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com
If you don't mind me asking, what CNC machine is that?
The machine started out as a Precision Matthews PM30MV and I converted it to CNC. The machine has been heavily upgraded since this video also
Still taking orders? Contact info?
Absolutely. Doing a dozen or so optic cuts a week plus all of the other cerakote/cut options out there. Reach out on out social media (MPMachiningUSA) or via email (sales@MPMachiningUSA.com) and we can get you squared away
can this cut a plastic slightly wider slide
Sorry I'm not sure I quite understand your question. Could you expound a bit on what you mean?
do you do millwork on HK's
I do optic cuts on just about every slide on the market. As for other machine work, it depends on the slide and what work it is. Some slides just don't lend themselves to getting work done to them. Reach out to me on social media (Facebook or Instagram accounts both have the same name as this UA-cam channel) or email at battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com
Do you do milling for an M&P?
Absolutely. We do work on M&P slides all the time. What did you have in mind?
@@mpmachining7227 I need a red dot 🔴 put on my M&P, but I don’t want to wait up till 8 weeks turnaround time.
@@my3sons386 reach out to us at sales@mpmachiningusa.com and we will get you squared away. Our lead time for optic cuts is about a week currently
What’s your email address? Would you be interested in doing a Glock 36?
battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com. Send me an email and we will see what we can do. I have done plenty of 36s in the past.
Hi, Have you done holosun 507k for CZ P-01?
I haven't yet. I have done RMR cuts (same footprint as the 507k) on a few P-07 slides but never a P-01
@@mpmachining7227 thanks !
Do you have a build list of your setup on any of your videos? Im do routers but looking to expand to a mill so im in the research phase still. Thanks!
I haven't included a full build list in any of my videos yet. I put one in a few replys to comments along the way I know. As I go through with my upgrades in the next month I'll be sure to lay out a full build list. I'm also replacing all of my stepper motors with servos, so if you're looking to buy steppers and drivers, I'll have my old ones available if you want to save some money on them.
i think the variation is caused by the flex of the tool. i think you should try a tap instead of a thread mill and see how it goes
perhaps turn up the speed, and down the feed i think thatll also do the trick.
Also surprised you dont use any kind of coolant or oil while cutting. I am a CNC machinist and work on tight tolerance aerospace and electronic component parts. Most of what I cut is aircraft grade aluminum, but I do run different types of steel too. Do you not want to use coolant for gun smiting? Is there a reason behind using just air especially on steel where i always though coolant was even more important to use?
Honestly the first and foremost reason I run air only and not coolant is that I never bothered to set my machine up with a flood system. I very rarely cut aluminum or work hardening stainless steel in large enough quantity to miss it either.
Aluminum definitely benefits much much more from flood coolant than your typical carbon steels. Stainless steel and titanium also do much better with flood than air blast. The air has worked surprisingly well for me (and some coolant mist when cutting aluminum) that I really don't miss flood coolant.
That being said, if the machine had flood coolant I would definitely be running it on these parts
@@mpmachining7227 yes if you use coolant or at least some kind of oil like on a manual mill it should increase tool life and give you a better surface finish.
The only issue with cutting steel with no flood coolant and trying to add a soluble oil or run it like a manual mill is you run the very high risk of getting micro fractures in the carbide when the droplets of oil/coolant hit the hot tool. Unfortunately when running a cnc machine using HSM toolpaths, when it comes to coolant it's either all or nothing in my experience. I have honestly been extremely happy with both the surface finishes and tool life after the upgrades. Usually a boneheaded mistake breaks a tool before I ever hit flute wear issues. I tend to make the "occasional" mistake more often than I would like to admit
@@mpmachining7227 trust me i have scrapped many a part due to operator error lol. Every decent machinist with years of experience has done a bonehead mistake. When I first started a even crashed a machine or two... yikes. But as long as you learn from the mistakes and dont focus on failures you can get better from errors.
I couldn't have said it better myself. Nice to hear I'm not the only one who learns a lot more from the bad parts than the good ones. Machining is definitely a humbling experience and I absolutely love it. Even on my very small scale level
Shouldnt have resistance in a thread
What’s your email?
battleresistantoutfitters@gmail.com
Man that was painful to watch. I always get the footprint from the manufacture.
You should have made your jaws and not used parallels that’s a amateur move real machinist don’t take shortcuts.
Thanks for the comment. As I never have claimed to be a real machinist, it's always nice to have an expert in the comments. I'll have to write that down that a real machinist would never use a machinist parallel for a single op square part held in a vise, never would have known. As for the dimensions, again, thanks for chiming in with your expertise. You sound like someone who has also cut a few hundred slides before, I must have gotten different dimensions direct from the manufacturer than you did. Mine have the manufacturing tolerances built into the drawing. Obviously I wouldn't have to tell you, being a real machinist and all, but for the other viewers in the comments its important to know that going with manufacturing tolderenced drawings to cut your optics will give an unacceptable amount of clearance on the pocket and put all recoil forces into the screws, so never ever go with those dimensions. But obviously, I appreciate you stopping by and giving me advice.
As for the video, it's certainly painful to watch and extremely old and an outdated process at this point. If I ever get into making free publicly available content for people again at the expense of my own time, I'll be sure to keep that in mind, I am about as far from being a real UA-camr as I am a real machinist and I certainly have a ton that I can improve.
Cut the dame slide already
Damn I bet that machine cost at least $1000 brah