Awesome!! I been a hardwood Floor installer and sander and finisher since I was 16 I love Bona Traffic HD but then I hate it I always used dural seal and Woodline products my whole life "lol"
@@johnsguitarmusicanddemosto me oil it holds up longer in direct sunlight I hate resanding a floor in kitchens by the arcadia doors/ sliding doors that gets a lot of sun darn water base it yellows the wood to deep and it turns pastel like from sun Ray changes your stain color sometimes when I had customers who asked for waterbase I told them to keep your shades closed when at work..."lol"
@@johnsguitarmusicanddemos Yes!! They been improving Waterbase a lot in past decade it is very nice stuff I just hate laying it down it sets to fast I always put my Waterbase finish in the fridge when I got on the job hahahaha!! cooling it down some I had less of a chance for fan marks from the T Bar pad a trick I learned in Arizona I love white oak!! But customers what red oak all the time because it's the in thing to have but red oak is for the look only it's prettiest not the hardest white oak holds up ten times longer in your home it's just don't have that fancy grain to it..I love white!! "😂
Great Video! I was pondering the same question... Nordic or Naturalseal on white oak. Do you need to sand between Natural Seal coats and also before first coat of Traffic HD? 220 grit? Thanks
I always sand with 320 grit between coats. I’m not really sure if that is something that is needed but I feel like it creates a smoother finish. Nordic seal is going to make it more white but the natural seal is going to make the colors blend together more. I usually use Nordic Seal to create a more modern look for flooring or shelves while I use Natural Seal is the white oak has a lot of ugly dark mineral streaks. As far as High Traffic goes, I’ve never used it.
@@johnsguitarmusicanddemos Does 2 coats of Naturalseal replicate basically 1 coat of Nordicseal for the amount of white pigment? Just curious if you can always whiten to resemble nordicseal if needed. Thanks!
@@ejn967 I’m only using it to lighten the board and make the different colors of white oak with the grain be less noticeable. I don’t use it to make the boards white but it gets about as white as grey pavement.
I have some questions hopefully you don’t mind answering lol. I’m in the process of refinishing my kitchen cabinets, I don’t know what type of wood it is, as it came with the house. It does have a yellow/orange natural color and it’s sanded to bare wood. I’m trying desperately to NOT have any orange or yellow hue. I want a very light neutral brown or barely brown stain, I’m not having any luck with minwax or varathane as everything is pulling yellow or orange. Do you have any suggestions? I have sanded to bare wood and have also completed one round of bleaching. Any suggestions to help are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Tanya
We get this same problem at our work too as the.most common flooring we sample is pine or white oak. Minwax Provincial as a stain was a nice brown color. Light wood color but dark brown grains. Have you tried dying the wood? Walnut dye helps with cedar and pine to help us avoid the auburn shades from coming out. Pine is a common wood used but you'll have bright orange knots.
@@johnsguitarmusicanddemos I’m not familiar with dyes at all. If you have brand recommendations I will certainly try it. I don’t have any knots in the wood. I wish I could send you a picture and maybe with all your experience you may know the species. Do you have an email address that you would be willing to share? I know it’s a lot to ask, I’m desperate to get this complete lol. Thank you so much for replying, I have watched so many videos and have asked questions but some people just don’t reply. I just want you to know I appreciate your help.
The seal is a sealant for the wood, it’s allows the traffic HD to go on more evenly and provides more protection for the wood. Seal then put traffic hd
Be warned this stuff is very hard to get an good even look over an entire flood. You should not attempt this product unless you have had a few years experience .
No offense but I just want to know what it is that you are comparing it to because I’ve never had a problem getting it on even. The only thing that I could imagine causing such a thing is that it dries quickly. I could see that being part of the cause of it.
Awesome video, man! I had never even heard of this stuff until now! Lol! I subscribed!
Thank you for subscribing to my channel! Yeah..... that's what I do for a job but I love it!
I want to have the modern look with white oak, but i am afraid it will have white chalk/white stain look. should I use Nordic seal?
Awesome!! I been a hardwood Floor installer and sander and finisher since I was 16 I love Bona Traffic HD but then I hate it I always used dural seal and Woodline products my whole life "lol"
We use Duraseal for oil based sheens. I like it because it makes the wood pop more and I'll use it on a guitar whenever I build mine.
@@johnsguitarmusicanddemosto me oil it holds up longer in direct sunlight I hate resanding a floor in kitchens by the arcadia doors/ sliding doors that gets a lot of sun darn water base it yellows the wood to deep and it turns pastel like from sun Ray changes your stain color sometimes when I had customers who asked for waterbase I told them to keep your shades closed when at work..."lol"
I ain't hacking Waterbase Bona is number one!! the science has improved on it in the last decade for yellowing...I'm just a oil guy for life
@@ElvisPretzel-rv3bg I was surprised with their Naturalseal. 2 coats on white oak looks amazing. Kind of a cleaner look.
@@johnsguitarmusicanddemos Yes!! They been improving Waterbase a lot in past decade it is very nice stuff I just hate laying it down it sets to fast I always put my Waterbase finish in the fridge when I got on the job hahahaha!! cooling it down some I had less of a chance for fan marks from the T Bar pad a trick I learned in Arizona I love white oak!! But customers what red oak all the time because it's the in thing to have but red oak is for the look only it's prettiest not the hardest white oak holds up ten times longer in your home it's just don't have that fancy grain to it..I love white!! "😂
Great Video! I was pondering the same question... Nordic or Naturalseal on white oak. Do you need to sand between Natural Seal coats and also before first coat of Traffic HD? 220 grit? Thanks
I always sand with 320 grit between coats. I’m not really sure if that is something that is needed but I feel like it creates a smoother finish. Nordic seal is going to make it more white but the natural seal is going to make the colors blend together more. I usually use Nordic Seal to create a more modern look for flooring or shelves while I use Natural Seal is the white oak has a lot of ugly dark mineral streaks. As far as High Traffic goes, I’ve never used it.
@@johnsguitarmusicanddemos Does 2 coats of Naturalseal replicate basically 1 coat of Nordicseal for the amount of white pigment? Just curious if you can always whiten to resemble nordicseal if needed. Thanks!
@@ejn967 I’m only using it to lighten the board and make the different colors of white oak with the grain be less noticeable. I don’t use it to make the boards white but it gets about as white as grey pavement.
I have some questions hopefully you don’t mind answering lol. I’m in the process of refinishing my kitchen cabinets, I don’t know what type of wood it is, as it came with the house. It does have a yellow/orange natural color and it’s sanded to bare wood. I’m trying desperately to NOT have any orange or yellow hue. I want a very light neutral brown or barely brown stain, I’m not having any luck with minwax or varathane as everything is pulling yellow or orange. Do you have any suggestions? I have sanded to bare wood and have also completed one round of bleaching. Any suggestions to help are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Tanya
We get this same problem at our work too as the.most common flooring we sample is pine or white oak. Minwax Provincial as a stain was a nice brown color. Light wood color but dark brown grains. Have you tried dying the wood? Walnut dye helps with cedar and pine to help us avoid the auburn shades from coming out. Pine is a common wood used but you'll have bright orange knots.
I also just did an upload where I can show you how the stain by Minwax I used did not show much yellow or orange on a piece of all sap ash.
@@johnsguitarmusicanddemos I’m not familiar with dyes at all. If you have brand recommendations I will certainly try it. I don’t have any knots in the wood. I wish I could send you a picture and maybe with all your experience you may know the species. Do you have an email address that you would be willing to share? I know it’s a lot to ask, I’m desperate to get this complete lol. Thank you so much for replying, I have watched so many videos and have asked questions but some people just don’t reply. I just want you to know I appreciate your help.
@@johnsguitarmusicanddemos I’m going to find it now. You are so helpful, thanks!
@@Tee-Tee37 I always reply to my comments so feel free to ask anything you like. I’m glad to be helpful.
How can you apply on 10000 sqf of hardwood white oak???
You’ll need more than one container. I never actually installed flooring but worked to create it. It was my job before.
I’m confused what natural seal is. Can you do natural seal and then traffic hd matte. My floor guy wants to do Duraseal and then traffic hd.
The seal is a sealant for the wood, it’s allows the traffic HD to go on more evenly and provides more protection for the wood. Seal then put traffic hd
I didn’t apply it in houses as I worked in the sample shop. I’d only go out to put it on floors if I was needed.
Hi where did you get the product?
Ace Hardware has it but I live in Vermont. I have ordered it off the Internet before. Here is their website.
vermontnaturalcoatings.com/
That’s the only way to use it. Don’t use it in a house with floors. You can’t reach out across the room to fix it. Use white stain.
I kind of agree yet you’ve probably got more experience than the guys did where I worked that apply this.
Worse product from Bona is nordic, even a monkey can apply it on a small area but on a big house its very hard to apply.
I can understand that. The idea is beautiful so whoever wanted that on a floor has good taste.
Be warned this stuff is very hard to get an good even look over an entire flood. You should not attempt this product unless you have had a few years experience .
No offense but I just want to know what it is that you are comparing it to because I’ve never had a problem getting it on even. The only thing that I could imagine causing such a thing is that it dries quickly. I could see that being part of the cause of it.
End product sucks
Seems to be an opinion shared by quite a few.