Curious how our floor has held up after 3 years of wear-and-tear (spoiler - there are some issues)? Find out by downloading our FREE Red Oak Refinishing Guide here: tinyurl.com/23kjrcad
@@mbameathead4185 i could tell ya the issues w the product they used. I can tell you with 100% accuracy the bona nordicseal w/ white pigment turns darker over time w/ UV rays... i have picture framing in one of my room around my carpet. White / Gray stains are cool, and they look great in photos... but living with them is another story. Also, if done correctly there is nothing wrong with matte finishes. Super tricky process, most top coats will amber your finished look slightly.. yes even waterbase. Nordic seal is pretty shiney, so the odds of wanting a matte or satin top coat (not sealer) are high.
Also, just make sure each can is mixed. If all poured into a 5 gallon bucket it can still start off shiney and end dull due to pigment left at the bottom.. mix either way
thanks you for this video. My wife had been suggesting for a long time to make our floors lighter because it also is red oak. She downloaded your PDF Guide and Tip.
Hi some people say that just sealing your floors without staining is not good as over the time it might pick up the yellowness/orangy of red oak, is it true ?
It will show the red/orange immediately. The sealer brings it out. It’s sort of like making the wood permanently wet. A sanded floor is raw, dry wood. You can get a bleached look with various bleach products (including actual bleach) or a “white” stain. Then the sealer seals in the white.
Thanks for the heads up! I just watched their training video on it and I'm curious about the final tone - still looks pretty red! Hard to tell with studio lights, but I'd be cautious using this. I like that with NordicSeal you can apply it once, twice, or three times to get the lightness you want. :)
@@archedmanor two coats to make it lighter. I just rolled some down today. I tried 3 coats. Not worth it. 2 is a sweet spot I’m finding out unless I’m using stain. Make sure you shake part 1 really good. Call your Bona rep or distribution and get a demo. This stuff is a game changer. No more bleach
@@archedmanor I roll both. But had a big issue with Nordic last year. I came up with a trick. Use natural seal first. 1 coat. Then 1 coat of Nordic. I like mega one because of the one component. I rolled red out. Floors look amazing! No odor, very watery but the end results are nice. 2 coats makes it lighter.
what was the paint-stain that you used to get that white washed look and did it have any red come through? also, why didn't the no odor mineral spirits work? having a hard time finding the kind you used
Heard that water based products just don't hold up as well over time? My current oil floors look great after 60 years. Light color looks great, but concerned if finish will hold up for a long time, and not feel too much like plastic.
Our don't have a noticeable pink tone. We did two coats of the bona nordicseal (the more coats you do, the lighter the wood becomes). It also depends on the light in the room and the wall colors (light reflecting off the walls can make the floor appear differently to the eye). If you have "red" oak around the sample you did, that may also confuse your eye - it may be different in appearance when the entire floor is refinished. Hope that helps!
Make sure when you buy the product that they all have the same SKU number. It’s like shingles you get different SKU numbers you get different colors it’s just a fact of life that you carry with you.
You're right - we should have put more footage at the end of the final product! Drats! There are more pictures of the finished product in the downloadable guide (link in description), and you can always check out archedmanor.com for more pics of our house and floor. Thanks! :)
We have about 2900 sq. ft. Of red oak flooring in our lake house. Would like to have then refinished but there are 3 types of flooring. Solid, Bruce and one other brand not sure of. Can the Bruce type be sanded and refinished?
I was waiting for their work enthusiastically but they kept talking. I fast forwarded and hope to see their work but their talk goes on till the end. They also asked to like their video. Hmmmm
'Best way to make red oak look like white oak?' Rip out the red oak and buy white oak, clowns. And in five years when 'white oak' and bleached/pickled/fake 'white' flooring is COMPLETELY out of style, unlike today when it is only slightly dated, boring. tired and going out of style? Rip that out and replace it with RED OAK.
Floor looks terrible. No character. No clue why anyone would want this. Also, don't take flooring advice from someone who doesn't even use the right terminology.
I just can't see the logic of spending $ adding more red oak, which you don't like, to the house and then using a product to alter the whole floor to appear like a different wood. Sorry.
Curious how our floor has held up after 3 years of wear-and-tear (spoiler - there are some issues)? Find out by downloading our FREE Red Oak Refinishing Guide here: tinyurl.com/23kjrcad
link is bad now
@@mbameathead4185 i could tell ya the issues w the product they used. I can tell you with 100% accuracy the bona nordicseal w/ white pigment turns darker over time w/ UV rays... i have picture framing in one of my room around my carpet. White / Gray stains are cool, and they look great in photos... but living with them is another story. Also, if done correctly there is nothing wrong with matte finishes. Super tricky process, most top coats will amber your finished look slightly.. yes even waterbase. Nordic seal is pretty shiney, so the odds of wanting a matte or satin top coat (not sealer) are high.
The link was not found. Is there another way I can get this guide?
@@ernestlambert6809 So sorry about that - link is back up! archedmanor.com/resources/red-oak-refinishing-guide/
Also, just make sure each can is mixed. If all poured into a 5 gallon bucket it can still start off shiney and end dull due to pigment left at the bottom.. mix either way
thanks you for this video. My wife had been suggesting for a long time to make our floors lighter because it also is red oak. She downloaded your PDF Guide and Tip.
I used the Bona natural sealer, which has half the whitener of the nordic. With the matt finish. 6 months later I'm very happy.
Awesome - Bona makes great products for sure. 👍
"Im a pretty handy guy"
Hands him the phone to call contractors
I want to do this so badly to our red oak floors as well!! Thank you for the info!! They’re gorgeous!! ❤️
Go for it Connie! Really transforms the space - thanks for watching! 😀
I wanted to see the final look😭
Best way to make red oak look like white. Mix Golden Oak stain and White stain one to one.
Thinking of using this technique on my honey oak kitchen cabinets..?
Maybe give it a try on the back of one of the doors first, just to see how it works. Keep us posted!
Watched all this, hoping to see the end results in detail… bummer
Brilliant idea! Can I apply over a 1/8" thick red oak veneer with a solid particle core interior door?
I don't see why not - maybe just test on a hidden area first to make sure.
Hi some people say that just sealing your floors without staining is not good as over the time it might pick up the yellowness/orangy of red oak, is it true ?
It will show the red/orange immediately. The sealer brings it out. It’s sort of like making the wood permanently wet. A sanded floor is raw, dry wood. You can get a bleached look with various bleach products (including actual bleach) or a “white” stain. Then the sealer seals in the white.
Your thumbnail says without bleaching, but then you recommend Nordic seal and say that it bleaches the wood. Please clarify.
I’m curious if you stained cabinets in the kitchen or family room. If so, what stain did you use to go with the floors?
Thanks for the question! No, we did not stain any cabinets, but we did apply the same process to our stair treads and railings!
Bona just released a new product called Redout.
Thanks for the heads up! I just watched their training video on it and I'm curious about the final tone - still looks pretty red! Hard to tell with studio lights, but I'd be cautious using this. I like that with NordicSeal you can apply it once, twice, or three times to get the lightness you want. :)
@@archedmanor two coats to make it lighter. I just rolled some down today. I tried 3 coats. Not worth it. 2 is a sweet spot I’m finding out unless I’m using stain. Make sure you shake part 1 really good. Call your Bona rep or distribution and get a demo. This stuff is a game changer. No more bleach
@@TwentyEightStreetMedia nice! Did you roll Nordicseal or RedOut?
@@archedmanor I roll both. But had a big issue with Nordic last year. I came up with a trick. Use natural seal first. 1 coat. Then 1 coat of Nordic. I like mega one because of the one component. I rolled red out. Floors look amazing! No odor, very watery but the end results are nice. 2 coats makes it lighter.
I saw a sample in person. I didn’t see any red after. But also curious about after coating
What about pu polish on the top of oak wood?
Great video!
But the link is bad for the download.
Floors look amazing!
Thank you. Helpful!
what was the paint-stain that you used to get that white washed look and did it have any red come through?
also, why didn't the no odor mineral spirits work? having a hard time finding the kind you used
could this be done to red oak kitchen cabinet?
Can definitely try Nordicseal once it’s sanded and see. 👍
Heard that water based products just don't hold up as well over time? My current oil floors look great after 60 years. Light color looks great, but concerned if finish will hold up for a long time, and not feel too much like plastic.
Do you just have to wait the 2-3 hours once you are done applying the sealer, to start applying the HD traffic finish?
Do you think this technique would work for kitchen cupboards?
Probably for the NordicSeal. We used it on our stair treads and railings. 👍
Is 1 coat of high traffic enough?
So far it seems to be. :)
Nice!
Thank you!
Can you use this product to get red out then stain over it to a darker tone?
Not the owner, but no. You can't stain over a sealer; it wouldn't penetrate the wood.
Bona has a neutralizer called "red out" it removes pink and red hues from.red oak. You apply before sealing your floors with nordic
What company did you use. I’m in Va too.
Did your floors turn out pinkish? I wanted to do nordicseal in my red oak and tested on a piece of red oak wood and it looks pinkish.
Our don't have a noticeable pink tone. We did two coats of the bona nordicseal (the more coats you do, the lighter the wood becomes). It also depends on the light in the room and the wall colors (light reflecting off the walls can make the floor appear differently to the eye). If you have "red" oak around the sample you did, that may also confuse your eye - it may be different in appearance when the entire floor is refinished. Hope that helps!
You may also be able to de-pink by using a touch of green pigment, but get a professional to do it.
Bona Red out is 2 part system that works great to remove pink and red hues. You apply this before a sealer
Make sure when you buy the product that they all have the same SKU number. It’s like shingles you get different SKU numbers you get different colors it’s just a fact of life that you carry with you.
Is marble dated?
The wood floor contractor should have known all of this !
💯
Now that some time has past, do you still love it?
They recommended water based, but I’m pretty sure oil based last longer. Also, newer water based oil-modified are probably better options.
Thanks for the comment! Oil may last longer, but it yellows with sun exposure, which we did not want. 👍
How do you not show the finished product in the video?? You’re killing me smalls!
You're right - we should have put more footage at the end of the final product! Drats! There are more pictures of the finished product in the downloadable guide (link in description), and you can always check out archedmanor.com for more pics of our house and floor. Thanks! :)
@@archedmanor just giving you a hard time 😉
We have about 2900 sq. ft. Of red oak flooring in our lake house. Would like to have then refinished but there are 3 types of flooring. Solid, Bruce and one other brand not sure of. Can the Bruce type be sanded and refinished?
In conclusion we did nothing except choose the product and call the contractors.
If you have zero experience and you choose to use a contractor might not be the best idea to talk him through the process
I was waiting for their work enthusiastically but they kept talking. I fast forwarded and hope to see their work but their talk goes on till the end. They also asked to like their video. Hmmmm
'Best way to make red oak look like white oak?' Rip out the red oak and buy white oak, clowns. And in five years when 'white oak' and bleached/pickled/fake 'white' flooring is COMPLETELY out of style, unlike today when it is only slightly dated, boring. tired and going out of style? Rip that out and replace it with RED OAK.
Floor looks terrible. No character. No clue why anyone would want this. Also, don't take flooring advice from someone who doesn't even use the right terminology.
"I'm an expert yet I needed to hire an expert" 👎
Do not use that product.
I just can't see the logic of spending $ adding more red oak, which you don't like, to the house and then using a product to alter the whole floor to appear like a different wood. Sorry.
Well they explained it, didn't they? Cost plus the white oak wouldn't match the red oak they refinished. Seems pretty clear.
@youngladybusiness