What does Nordic seal do to black wood patch? We have a character grade white oak floor and we used black patch to fill the many large holes over 1” in diameter. Will Nordic sit on the top and leave the black patch slightly white or is it transparent enough to allow most of the black to show through? We love the black knot holes and rustic look but also feel the white boards would be beautiful. Thanks for the video
After applying it, I’ll tell you. It turns them grey. What was once a dark black spot is now a grey haze. They look milky and blend well with the the floor finish. We applied 1 coat of Nordic and 2 coats of traffic and they are still prominent but have blended with the floor. I don’t regret what we’ve done but if you want them to stay black, you’ll have to skip the Nordicseal.
This buffer is the American Sanders RS-16 DC - www.cityfloorsupply.com/p/american-sanders-rs-16-dc-16-inch-buffer/5064 The abrasive he used in between coats was Norton yellow sand dollars - www.cityfloorsupply.com/f/norton-sand-dollar-16-inch-diameter-pad-fine/562/11524
Hi I have a large floor and there is variation in color because one part of it is older. Can I use this product or will the shades of color be to different. I’m told it’s better to stain?
I applied it with a t-bar applicator and similar hand applicator. This product is NOT garbage, it’s all about how the person applies it. It was recommended to me to use a coat of clear as the base, then the Nordic. This was a wise suggestion. This product is tough to apply on a raw floor. The floor is so dry and absorbent, a white film applied will have consequences. I’m not sure how a seasoned pro would do this but I bet it’s tricky for them too. Add a coat of clear first then be meticulous on your application of Nordic. I have a couple minor marks in the floor where it was heavy. But mostly it is a white haze consistent over the floor. I would do this again and recommend it. I also had success in a light sand after the Nordic was dry. I had a couple bad spots I hand treated before the first coat of traffic. You can sand the Nordic, just be cautious. Go back over it with clear, then reapply the Nordic if necessary. Good luck
@@reedrobb you have to do two coats of this, apply extra on first coat to not get overlap. I live in a place where people are cheap and wanna pay the least amount of money, you have to charge the amount of a stain job, try explaining that to the client on a "natural" job. They'll argue over. Best to leave it to someone else to fuck their floor up
We're very sorry to hear that! If you're located in the U.S. and you need help finding a contractor to help you out, you can always use our "Find a Contractor" tool: www.cityfloorsupply.com/customer/ciflsu/b2bse/find-a-contractor.aspx We only recommend contractors who know what they're doing and have appropriate training.
@@CityFloorSupplyLLC Thanks for the video! I am looking to seal a natural birch butcher block countertop and preserve the unfinished look. Do you think the Nordic Seal or the Natural Seal would be better for this? Thanks again!
I cannot imagine why you couldn’t. I’m building an oak cabinet soon and I may apply Nordic before the clear goes on. Compatibility with another brand could be tricky. I’m not sure I’d use floor finish on cabinetry or casing/ doors.
My floor has 2 coats of sealer and 2 coats of traffic naturale. I plan to add 1 more layer of traffic before it’s considered done. I believe this is the max you’d want to apply
Hi again, Emily! Bona Nordic Tone is a different product than Nordic Seal (urethane sealer). Nordic tone is meant as a pre-treatment for the Bona Craft oil system (coming soon in the USA). Hope this helps!
I found this UA-cam video on this company’s website - in the comments section, someone asked the same Q as yours. The answer was the left side is red oak and the right side is white oak.
Will the topcoat pull out yellows from the white pigment below? Ive been told to wait 30 days after water based staining to apply the water based finish, to let it cure, or else the topcoat will yellow.
My floor is only about 1 month old and it did not yellow. I applied 1 coat of clear sealer, 1 coat of Nordic sealer and 2 coats of traffic naturale. I see no yellowing. The layers were installed within 24 hours of each other with the last layer drying 1 week before screening and top coating again.
One thing nobody ever shows you in these videos is applying it in an actual house working down a tight hallway. These white sealers usually always leave lap marks. Sure, going wall to wall is easy. These white sealers suck when you’re working in homes where you have to start and stop all over the place. Here they are working with a wide open floor with no walls and no other obstacles.
It's easy how you apply it there, but with walls you have to be very fast and have experience when applying it, otherwise you will get a very unpleasant surprise (only for professionals)
I was suggested to me by a pro to apply a coat of Natural seal first, then 1 or 2 coats of Nordic seal. This was a game changer for me as a pro contractor- noobie hardwood finisher. I used a tbar applicator and spread it evenly. In 300’ there were only a few heavy spots. I had luck with hand sanding them, recoating with clear, then applying Nordic to that little area. The Nordic seal was by far my most difficult coat. The clear under it helped tremendously. I don’t think my hired hardwood installer could have done better.
this Product is terrible! may work good with applying it on a small example piece as in this video! good luck trying to apply it in a house with cabinets, and different areas! and be sure not to apply any buffing as I put three coats on and with a top coat, and it came out after the second coat with dark spots in the floor! I'm 23 years seasoned doing hardwood floors, and many stain jobs, and have never had an issue as with this product!
1800 ft resand because of this product. 20 yrs experience coating waterbased finishes this is by far the worst. Bona Nordic Steal your money!!! And time
Did you ever figure out what the problem was? Am a refinisher with hundreds of floors under my belt and quoting a job where a client wants their fir floors to look paler like fresh maple floors. Am thinking this will turn into a headache.
Alex Fournier the problem to put modestly is the product. It’s extremely sensitive any amount of feathering you do. If you have even a bit excess it shows up so much especially when you go near the walls. I had to resanad the whole home out of pocket. I used one coat then attempted a second but it only made it much worse. Do not recommend
It's unhonest to "teaching" in panel without walls..we all know this product doesn't dry evenly..thanks Bona for destroying reputation of hard working ppl
Man, I wish every floor didn't have walls attached to it :)
That would make things a lot easier!
Lol
How about a real situation with edges . Heard this product is a pain in the ass to work with
Let’s see him try this in a real house with bunch of rooms and closets and cabinets with no transition
I prefer the look after only one coat. Could I just go 1x coat Nordicseal and 2x coats of Bono Mega ? (On a sanded pine wood floor)
Nice! Can you make a video applying red out and then Nordic? I am planning to use it like that. Thank you
Thank you. Very helpful video. How would you decide between bona white stain vs bona nordicseal?
Personal preference. You’d have to sample them both and decide
Amazing. Out plan is to refinish red oak floors using this sytem. Will this work on engineered oak floors? Not sure the size of the wear layer.
Joe mentions doing this on red oak, but I cannot find that's video. Does anybody have experience with that?
Did you figure this out? Also looking to do red oak.
You didn't get a drop on the molding
How does it hold out long-term compared with oil products? What is difference between Bona Traffic and Bona Traffic HD?
What does Nordic seal do to black wood patch? We have a character grade white oak floor and we used black patch to fill the many large holes over 1” in diameter. Will Nordic sit on the top and leave the black patch slightly white or is it transparent enough to allow most of the black to show through? We love the black knot holes and rustic look but also feel the white boards would be beautiful. Thanks for the video
After applying it, I’ll tell you. It turns them grey. What was once a dark black spot is now a grey haze. They look milky and blend well with the the floor finish. We applied 1 coat of Nordic and 2 coats of traffic and they are still prominent but have blended with the floor. I don’t regret what we’ve done but if you want them to stay black, you’ll have to skip the Nordicseal.
Please share model of the buffer and sand paper
This buffer is the American Sanders RS-16 DC - www.cityfloorsupply.com/p/american-sanders-rs-16-dc-16-inch-buffer/5064
The abrasive he used in between coats was Norton yellow sand dollars - www.cityfloorsupply.com/f/norton-sand-dollar-16-inch-diameter-pad-fine/562/11524
Supposed to use this on stairs with painted risers and stringers , brush for sure ?
Hi I have a large floor and there is variation in color because one part of it is older. Can I use this product or will the shades of color be to different. I’m told it’s better to stain?
Will this work on golden oak cabinets?
Thoughts on doing this to a yellow pine floor??
The traffic hd did you use semi-gloss or matte?
How to roll this?
How about naturalseal?
what's the best way to apply Bona Nordic with no overlap,
the walls and cabinets skill me; (
Use a stain. This product is garbage
I applied it with a t-bar applicator and similar hand applicator. This product is NOT garbage, it’s all about how the person applies it. It was recommended to me to use a coat of clear as the base, then the Nordic. This was a wise suggestion. This product is tough to apply on a raw floor. The floor is so dry and absorbent, a white film applied will have consequences. I’m not sure how a seasoned pro would do this but I bet it’s tricky for them too. Add a coat of clear first then be meticulous on your application of Nordic. I have a couple minor marks in the floor where it was heavy. But mostly it is a white haze consistent over the floor. I would do this again and recommend it. I also had success in a light sand after the Nordic was dry. I had a couple bad spots I hand treated before the first coat of traffic. You can sand the Nordic, just be cautious. Go back over it with clear, then reapply the Nordic if necessary. Good luck
@@reedrobb you have to do two coats of this, apply extra on first coat to not get overlap. I live in a place where people are cheap and wanna pay the least amount of money, you have to charge the amount of a stain job, try explaining that to the client on a "natural" job. They'll argue over. Best to leave it to someone else to fuck their floor up
After you polished before the top coat, did you do any cleaning or applied anything else prior to top coat application?
How can I touch up a brown spot that bled through the Nordic seal
You know what you are doing. Just had a horrible experience with a very bad finish from a company that used Bona products but knew nothing.
We're very sorry to hear that! If you're located in the U.S. and you need help finding a contractor to help you out, you can always use our "Find a Contractor" tool: www.cityfloorsupply.com/customer/ciflsu/b2bse/find-a-contractor.aspx
We only recommend contractors who know what they're doing and have appropriate training.
@@CityFloorSupplyLLC Thanks for the video! I am looking to seal a natural birch butcher block countertop and preserve the unfinished look. Do you think the Nordic Seal or the Natural Seal would be better for this? Thanks again!
Is it possible to use an aluminum oxide finish on top of the Nordic Seal? If yes which one would be the best?
Did you pop the the grain?
We did not pop the grain on this floor before sealing.
Do you still sell the white oak floor? if so what is it called on your website?
Thank you so much for sharing!!! That's what I want!!! :D
Did you buff in between sealer coats? Also did you buff the last coat of sealer the. Applied finish?
No. You don't. But I do buff before a 3rd coat because ill apply a top coat right over 3rd Nordicseal
Can this product be used for window and door trim/casing/headers and baseboard???
I cannot imagine why you couldn’t. I’m building an oak cabinet soon and I may apply Nordic before the clear goes on. Compatibility with another brand could be tricky. I’m not sure I’d use floor finish on cabinetry or casing/ doors.
How many coats of the Bona Traffic HD would you recommend on top of two coats of Nordic Sealer for a residential home? Thanks!
My floor has 2 coats of sealer and 2 coats of traffic naturale. I plan to add 1 more layer of traffic before it’s considered done. I believe this is the max you’d want to apply
Is this select grade oak or character grade?
Oh - one other question I had for you too as I haven't found the answer to. Why use the Bona nordic tone over the Bona white product? Thanks!
Hi again, Emily! Bona Nordic Tone is a different product than Nordic Seal (urethane sealer). Nordic tone is meant as a pre-treatment for the Bona Craft oil system (coming soon in the USA).
Hope this helps!
Thanks so much for the additional tips! I so want to use this on our home reno job with our pine floors.
Best of luck with your project!
Is one board red oak and one white oak?
I found this UA-cam video on this company’s website - in the comments section, someone asked the same Q as yours. The answer was the left side is red oak and the right side is white oak.
Hi, do we need to buff off current floor finish to use the sealer?
Yes. For proper adhesion you would want to cut the surface, most would recommend you start from raw wood and do the process from scratch
Will the topcoat pull out yellows from the white pigment below?
Ive been told to wait 30 days after water based staining to apply the water based finish, to let it cure, or else the topcoat will yellow.
My floor is only about 1 month old and it did not yellow. I applied 1 coat of clear sealer, 1 coat of Nordic sealer and 2 coats of traffic naturale. I see no yellowing. The layers were installed within 24 hours of each other with the last layer drying 1 week before screening and top coating again.
?
good product, I recommend it
How do I get a very high gloss look on my floor after using the white wash
Use gloss lol
Great product, highly recommend
One thing nobody ever shows you in these videos is applying it in an actual house working down a tight hallway. These white sealers usually always leave lap marks. Sure, going wall to wall is easy. These white sealers suck when you’re working in homes where you have to start and stop all over the place. Here they are working with a wide open floor with no walls and no other obstacles.
Yeah and they are going over and over what they just put down which you definitely don't do when coating a house
@@Slicknine correct.
It's easy how you apply it there, but with walls you have to be very fast and have experience when applying it, otherwise you will get a very unpleasant surprise (only for professionals)
Wish I could get Bona products in Canada. They are number one rated, yet can’t get it. Frustrating.
I live in Toronto and I was able to find a company that sells Bona.
Cant see much of the white
its more like a duller version of itself, this is not what people think when they want a white wash thats for sure
Try that on a difficult layout and low humidity... nitemare!
What a nightmare product to work with. Your average homeowner could never apply that stuff consistently. Two coats he is right is mandatory
I was suggested to me by a pro to apply a coat of Natural seal first, then 1 or 2 coats of Nordic seal. This was a game changer for me as a pro contractor- noobie hardwood finisher. I used a tbar applicator and spread it evenly. In 300’ there were only a few heavy spots. I had luck with hand sanding them, recoating with clear, then applying Nordic to that little area. The Nordic seal was by far my most difficult coat. The clear under it helped tremendously. I don’t think my hired hardwood installer could have done better.
Buffing a sealer with color is asking for trouble. Doing so can burn through the sealer in any high spots. I would not recommend it.
Terrible product to work with , specially when doing a bigger floor with many rooms ,
wow finish with white paint in it.....ground breaking
this Product is terrible! may work good with applying it on a small example piece as in this video! good luck trying to apply it in a house with cabinets, and different areas! and be sure not to apply any buffing as I put three coats on and with a top coat, and it came out after the second coat with dark spots in the floor! I'm 23 years seasoned doing hardwood floors, and many stain jobs, and have never had an issue as with this product!
I wish I read this literally one week earlier. Ruined a 2300 sqft house I did
1800 ft resand because of this product. 20 yrs experience coating waterbased finishes this is by far the worst. Bona Nordic Steal your money!!! And time
Did you ever figure out what the problem was? Am a refinisher with hundreds of floors under my belt and quoting a job where a client wants their fir floors to look paler like fresh maple floors. Am thinking this will turn into a headache.
@@Chorizliftsflaps Did you ever figure out what the problem was? What did you do for # of coats etc?
Alex Fournier the problem to put modestly is the product. It’s extremely sensitive any amount of feathering you do. If you have even a bit excess it shows up so much especially when you go near the walls. I had to resanad the whole home out of pocket. I used one coat then attempted a second but it only made it much worse. Do not recommend
Any monkey can roll or tbar product on a sample patch of flooring...very misleading .
It's unhonest to "teaching" in panel without walls..we all know this product doesn't dry evenly..thanks Bona for destroying reputation of hard working ppl