Thanks Paul. We all are looking for a perfect soil mix, without your diligent vlog we will never find it and keep making the same mistakes. Thank you so much for being honest, the time consuming effort just to see Gary, was an honorable gesture to right yourself and benefit us all. I am from SD too, (South Bay)...
Hi Paul, I too have started experimenting with a sand-based mix for my Dragon fruit. My first batch consists of light potting mix 15 %, compost 10 %, pumice 10 %, peat moss 10 %, charcoal 5 % and the rest sand. I have tried to keep it as simple as possible. Another problem I found was acquiring larger amounts of horticultural sand, but an option I used was a product we sell at my work, which is known as sharp sand or bedding sand. I contacted the company that sells us our different sand-based products, this is the one that they recommended. Not perfect, but close enough for what I want and cheap as chips. I have planted 5 Dragon fruit in this mix and will monitor progress over the summer. I also gave them a light top dressing of compost.
Great video. Gary is a legend, after seeing a lot of his videos I don't trust anyone who isn't following his guidance on soil. Glad to see you on board with that. I will be checking out your videos since I know you are on the truth train. Do you know where I can find guidance on turning an overgrown old garden area into a spot where i can grow potatoes? i have no idea what to do and I don't trust anyone except gary and people who think like he does. The soil just has native grass roots everywhere in it, most people say to till but I'm not so sure. I'm half tempted to get rid of the top 8 inches of soil and bring in some sandy soil. I have never grown anything except for repotting dying plants with Gary style mix that I made and everything came back to life in a matter of days. I know a top dressing is important, but I can't visualize how to do that with potatoes. How to keep it separate from the soil when you go to harvest. Perhaps it's not doable with potatoes. I talked to an organic potato farm in Canada on the phone and they grow in I assume sandy soil in a large river valley area, they don't fertilize but they do spread compost on top probably like Gary talks about, just 1% ontop of the soil and it will decompose in a season as to not get buried into the soil since they have to stir it all up to harvest the potato. perhaps I answered my own question. Sorry about the long comment. I'll dig through your videos soon and see what you're up to.
Wow, thanks for the kind words... The truth matters! Gary's interview taught us so much. I think you did answer your own question. A friend from down under sent me a resource about a company that restores wetlands. They wrote and 10 inches of compost is the max. if I remember correctly. Can't find the website at the moment.
I enjoy and learn from your videos - thanks! I repotted several of my smaller DF (grown from seed), with a similar mixture. Now, ready to pot new cuttings & the large containers of DF. Why do you use/recommend bio char? I didn’t include that in the last blend I made.
This is a fantastic informative video...im sure more people will gradually mix up their soul habits to something more like this. I was close I guess with adding some of those ingredients to my fox farm soil to beef it up from the get go..but actually doing the research and understanding why really helps for the future.
Great video. I tried Gary’s top pot recipe and it was really damp and slow draining. I wanted to try your recipe this time. Can you please recommend a more precise ratio for a beginner like me ? Thank you.
I estimate these ratios and use 25% Peat 25% sand 20% pumice 10% Perlite 5% DG (my native soil in the yard) 5% Chunky Coconut Coir 5% Bio Char 5% Worm Castings
Followed this outline today. I mixed a good amount of peat and coir within, but the sand, pumice, perlite, and vermiculite take over visually. I’m not used to using sand-based mixes and watering makes me somewhat nervous. Traditional top-down amendments like James Prigioni’s garden oughta keep it balanced over time.
It’s ironic cause I literally followed your old videos on making the ideal soil for my tropicals and then three weeks later I’m regretting on using fox farm after watching your first interview with Gary Matsuoka. I just want to point out a few things that may help you. Do not over do it on fine sand (like beach sand). It will actually compact like you would expect after making a sand castle and will induce root rot when overwatered. Also, try to avoid using coco coir chips as an amendment. It will eventually rob the soil of nitrogen and I honestly think it works perfectly well as a top mulch after top dressing the plants with worm castings. One other thing is that both terracotta and burlap/ cloth bags work wonders on air pruning roots but there is nothing wrong using plastic containers.
Sorry, I am deleting all videos where I talk about using Fox Farms Soil. I've been changing out my pots for weeks now, so I feel your pain too! I think the chunky coco coir is useful and i use it still at a rate of about 3-5%. I'm trying some with and some without. Gary's ratio is optimal in my opinion. I am also learning that too much sand can result in nematodes too. Good advice.
Hey Paul, some questions : - I live in Bermuda - heavy clay/alkaline soil - and the main type of sand we have is limestone based. I have access to a Silica sand, but it is a "Standard Sand & Silica" 20/30 grain size, which I believe may be medium-fine. Can I use this or should I hold out for something coarser (we have limited resources here so I may not be able to find anything better)? - I DO have access to granite. In regards to the previous question, should I perhaps add more granite to the mix to offset the medium-fine grain sand?
Hi! I'd probably use decomposed granite or sand that has been washed really well. These plants prefer an acidic mix. Peat moss is acidic, so use that, perlite, pumice, and some charcoal instead. The key is to keep your soil slightly acidic in my opinion.
Dude, you need to find a good river bed close to you...we get our DG from a creek bed in East County, good for drainage, trace minerals, electrical conductivity and the best part it's free. Not sure if you are into Earths negative electrical charge to help plants grow. I'm a electrical contractor...one reason I like using a concrete post 2ft in the ground, the sand and rocks in the concrete act like a grounding rod. There are videos of people adding voltage 12V to their pots (not in the ground) to help plants grow and adding voltage to cut flower pots to help them last longer. Something to think about.
I should attach a battery to the 6 foot rebar I use on in the trellis :) I'll check it out, sounds interesting. I have some nice DG in the yard behind the greenhouse and started using that today, before I read this I use it at about 3-5% in the mix. Thanks for the advice.
Possibly, I was surprised to see it happen so often. The DF like attaching their roots to the big chunks of Coir, maybe it's the perfect amount of moisture? I tried using coir and wormcastings only, and that worked well too!
Hello Paul 👋. If I can't find all the products or have the budget for all that , what is a short list that can be made? In 3 of my first pots I used fine construction sand 3-4 months ago do u think they will rot?
1) Sand 2) Peat Moss 3) Pumice 4) Perlite 5) Bio Char I think this is the order of most importance. Top dress with compost. I have a few pots still in Fox Farms from 2020 and they are doing well. More rust, but they are still ok. Worm castings will help to improve the potting soil too
It's in the 30'S at night this week. I prefer to repot them in the winter because they will sunburn more easily in the summer in my experience. I don't repot them if rain is expected a few days later, because I want the damaged roots to heal and not rot. Other than that, they do fine. I do cover some with burlap to ease the transition.
Paul, I have a feeling you are making it too complicated. Most of us does not have the resource nor time to obtain all the ingredients you listed. Besides, do you think it is necessary to mix so many things in the soil which will really benefit the plant? I think I will stick to the Peat moss, pumice, perlite, sand, and charcoal mix. The key is to hold air, water, and fertilizer to the roots and not compacted down quickly. Isn't it? Btw, I enjoy watching your videos.
I like using organic potting soil, peat moss, lots of creek sand, azomite and bone meal... super simple. We fertilize with chicken compost, worm tea and bone meal. Top with horse manure (free) for worms to eat and keep moisture so we don't have to water as much in the summer months. We are getting great results, still have fruit trying to ripen in this cold weather.
It’s really not that hard nor too expensive to amend soil. Trust me. I work once a week lol. You can get most if not every thing at the same store in just a few minutes.
I agree, but after talking to Gary and some things we discussed off camera, the additional items can be useful too. I'm trying both to see how it goes over time.
I have an experiment for those who had the misfortune---my case unfortunately--of potting their plants before viewing this video. I neglected to add sand, biochar, or pumice to my mix. My proposed solution: I'm first adding about a 1" layer of play sand--my reasoniong will follow--to the top of the pots and allowing gravity and watering to draw the sand down through the existing mix. I think play sand will work better than courser sand here because the finer grains should penetrate down easier than course grain sand. And, as my pots are already full of mix, the finer grained sand won't just wash away through the weep holes at the bottom of my pots. If this works, I'll add another about 1" layer of sand then do the same with small grain pumice and biochar. This way, over the course of a few years--from the top down--I hope to transform my now less than optimal mix in pots to one my plants should thrive in for at least ten years. As the Fox Farms, perlite, and worm castings mix I used should be good for at least a few years, I can let water and gravity do what they do to change the composition of my existing mix over the next few years rather than start anew from scratch. Just a suggestion.
It is very confusing! Potting soil is very important base on your area climates, their has not one formula to fit them all! It has been more experiment!
Not really, these plants do best with organic compost as a top dressing. Sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite are excellent ingredients that can be used anywhere to grow these plants.
Thanks Paul. We all are looking for a perfect soil mix, without your diligent vlog we will never find it and keep making the same mistakes. Thank you so much for being honest, the time consuming effort just to see Gary, was an honorable gesture to right yourself and benefit us all. I am from SD too, (South Bay)...
So nice of you, thanks for the support.
Great stuff brotha!!💪🌵 Are you cutting out all worm castings and/or manure… Or are you just using those type of things to top dress?
Yes, only for top dressing as Gary recommends. Even worm castings, which was a hard one for me, lol.
Hi Paul, I too have started experimenting with a sand-based mix for my Dragon fruit. My first batch consists of light potting mix 15 %, compost 10 %, pumice 10 %, peat moss 10 %, charcoal 5 % and the rest sand. I have tried to keep it as simple as possible. Another problem I found was acquiring larger amounts of horticultural sand, but an option I used was a product we sell at my work, which is known as sharp sand or bedding sand. I contacted the company that sells us our different sand-based products, this is the one that they recommended. Not perfect, but close enough for what I want and cheap as chips. I have planted 5 Dragon fruit in this mix and will monitor progress over the summer. I also gave them a light top dressing of compost.
Nice! Let me know how it goes.
Thank you so much for sharing. Wish I had seen this a year ago.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Thank you once again hits after hits
Thanks for the kind words!
Thanks for the inf and review all the materials 👍🏻
Paul said he is going to move to Florida just for our sand (•‿•)
Gotta make him some mofongo and some bbq when he gets here 😂
@@ShaggyDogg0128 he don’t have to. SoCal has tons of sandy soil in it coasts and deserts. Maybe
b/c cost of living?
Lol. Hopefully a second home if I win the lotto!!!!
LOL. I'm not ready to leave!
Great video. Gary is a legend, after seeing a lot of his videos I don't trust anyone who isn't following his guidance on soil. Glad to see you on board with that. I will be checking out your videos since I know you are on the truth train.
Do you know where I can find guidance on turning an overgrown old garden area into a spot where i can grow potatoes? i have no idea what to do and I don't trust anyone except gary and people who think like he does. The soil just has native grass roots everywhere in it, most people say to till but I'm not so sure. I'm half tempted to get rid of the top 8 inches of soil and bring in some sandy soil. I have never grown anything except for repotting dying plants with Gary style mix that I made and everything came back to life in a matter of days.
I know a top dressing is important, but I can't visualize how to do that with potatoes. How to keep it separate from the soil when you go to harvest. Perhaps it's not doable with potatoes. I talked to an organic potato farm in Canada on the phone and they grow in I assume sandy soil in a large river valley area, they don't fertilize but they do spread compost on top probably like Gary talks about, just 1% ontop of the soil and it will decompose in a season as to not get buried into the soil since they have to stir it all up to harvest the potato.
perhaps I answered my own question. Sorry about the long comment. I'll dig through your videos soon and see what you're up to.
Wow, thanks for the kind words... The truth matters! Gary's interview taught us so much. I think you did answer your own question. A friend from down under sent me a resource about a company that restores wetlands. They wrote and 10 inches of compost is the max. if I remember correctly. Can't find the website at the moment.
I enjoy and learn from your videos - thanks!
I repotted several of my smaller DF (grown from seed), with a similar mixture. Now, ready to pot new cuttings & the large containers of DF.
Why do you use/recommend bio char? I didn’t include that in the last blend I made.
I learned it from Gary Matsuoka. It i good at 3-5%
sacredearthland.co.uk/the-benefits-of-biochar/
That’s right he explain why he uses bio char.
@@DonlonWard yes, I need to review it too
This is a fantastic informative video...im sure more people will gradually mix up their soul habits to something more like this. I was close I guess with adding some of those ingredients to my fox farm soil to beef it up from the get go..but actually doing the research and understanding why really helps for the future.
Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it.
Paul’s Top Pot
LOL. :)
Great video. I tried Gary’s top pot recipe and it was really damp and slow draining. I wanted to try your recipe this time. Can you please recommend a more precise ratio for a beginner like me ? Thank you.
I estimate these ratios and use
25% Peat
25% sand
20% pumice
10% Perlite
5% DG (my native soil in the yard)
5% Chunky Coconut Coir
5% Bio Char
5% Worm Castings
We have plenty of sand here in Florida. Can get you 10 acres of land and have your dragon fruit farm.
Haha... Maybe someday, I've never lived outside of San Diego :)
Since it's been a year, how are the dragon fruit in your version of Top Pot mix?
Still doing great, this cold wet winter has been an excellent test.
Can you post the full mix please
Learning something new. Would worm castings still be used in corrected soil mix?
Awesome! Yes, but Gary suggests using worm castings as a top dressing, not mixing it into the potting mix. I'm top dressing it now.
Followed this outline today. I mixed a good amount of peat and coir within, but the sand, pumice, perlite, and vermiculite take over visually. I’m not used to using sand-based mixes and watering makes me somewhat nervous. Traditional top-down amendments like James Prigioni’s garden oughta keep it balanced over time.
Excellent, our plants are much happier now!
@@RAREDRAGONFRUIT There definitely is noticeable improvement! It took to growing within the day’s worth and pest damage slowed dramatically
It’s ironic cause I literally followed your old videos on making the ideal soil for my tropicals and then three weeks later I’m regretting on using fox farm after watching your first interview with Gary Matsuoka.
I just want to point out a few things that may help you. Do not over do it on fine sand (like beach sand). It will actually compact like you would expect after making a sand castle and will induce root rot when overwatered. Also, try to avoid using coco coir chips as an amendment. It will eventually rob the soil of nitrogen and I honestly think it works perfectly well as a top mulch after top dressing the plants with worm castings. One other thing is that both terracotta and burlap/ cloth bags work wonders on air pruning roots but there is nothing wrong using plastic containers.
Sorry, I am deleting all videos where I talk about using Fox Farms Soil. I've been changing out my pots for weeks now, so I feel your pain too! I think the chunky coco coir is useful and i use it still at a rate of about 3-5%. I'm trying some with and some without. Gary's ratio is optimal in my opinion. I am also learning that too much sand can result in nematodes too. Good advice.
Do you have a video showing how to replace soil? Now I have 20 pots of foxfarm to be fixed
I would love to see that video - hope there is one
Here is one we moved... ua-cam.com/video/HoASW-4bwHE/v-deo.html&t
Here is another how to tie it up.. ua-cam.com/video/V-LmvbKBDUo/v-deo.html
I added 2 on the topic
Desidero sapere il tipo di fertilizzante da usare per la pitahaya. Grazie
I like to use worm castings and Dr. Earth's Flower Girl Bud and Bloom.
Hey Paul, some questions :
- I live in Bermuda - heavy clay/alkaline soil - and the main type of sand we have is limestone based. I have access to a Silica sand, but it is a "Standard Sand & Silica" 20/30 grain size, which I believe may be medium-fine. Can I use this or should I hold out for something coarser (we have limited resources here so I may not be able to find anything better)?
- I DO have access to granite. In regards to the previous question, should I perhaps add more granite to the mix to offset the medium-fine grain sand?
Hi! I'd probably use decomposed granite or sand that has been washed really well. These plants prefer an acidic mix. Peat moss is acidic, so use that, perlite, pumice, and some charcoal instead. The key is to keep your soil slightly acidic in my opinion.
@@RAREDRAGONFRUIT Thanks!
What brand is the coconut coir?
Chunkier the better. I belive it was called Grow Pro?
Dude, you need to find a good river bed close to you...we get our DG from a creek bed in East County, good for drainage, trace minerals, electrical conductivity and the best part it's free. Not sure if you are into Earths negative electrical charge to help plants grow. I'm a electrical contractor...one reason I like using a concrete post 2ft in the ground, the sand and rocks in the concrete act like a grounding rod. There are videos of people adding voltage 12V to their pots (not in the ground) to help plants grow and adding voltage to cut flower pots to help them last longer. Something to think about.
I should attach a battery to the 6 foot rebar I use on in the trellis :) I'll check it out, sounds interesting. I have some nice DG in the yard behind the greenhouse and started using that today, before I read this I use it at about 3-5% in the mix. Thanks for the advice.
do you think that the roots like coco choir becuz it helps with the bacteria and myco’s?
Possibly, I was surprised to see it happen so often. The DF like attaching their roots to the big chunks of Coir, maybe it's the perfect amount of moisture? I tried using coir and wormcastings only, and that worked well too!
Hello Paul 👋. If I can't find all the products or have the budget for all that , what is a short list that can be made? In 3 of my first pots I used fine construction sand 3-4 months ago do u think they will rot?
1) Sand
2) Peat Moss
3) Pumice
4) Perlite
5) Bio Char
I think this is the order of most importance. Top dress with compost. I have a few pots still in Fox Farms from 2020 and they are doing well. More rust, but they are still ok. Worm castings will help to improve the potting soil too
I'm curious are you repotting here in December?
Any worries as I know its been pretty chilly lately
It's in the 30'S at night this week. I prefer to repot them in the winter because they will sunburn more easily in the summer in my experience. I don't repot them if rain is expected a few days later, because I want the damaged roots to heal and not rot. Other than that, they do fine. I do cover some with burlap to ease the transition.
Where can i get bio char? Any recommendations?
I can find this locally... www.biocharsupreme.com/collections/growing-products/products/bob-s-ag-hort
Paul, I have a feeling you are making it too complicated. Most of us does not have the resource nor time to obtain all the ingredients you listed. Besides, do you think it is necessary to mix so many things in the soil which will really benefit the plant? I think I will stick to the Peat moss, pumice, perlite, sand, and charcoal mix. The key is to hold air, water, and fertilizer to the roots and not compacted down quickly. Isn't it? Btw, I enjoy watching your videos.
I like using organic potting soil, peat moss, lots of creek sand, azomite and bone meal... super simple. We fertilize with chicken compost, worm tea and bone meal. Top with horse manure (free) for worms to eat and keep moisture so we don't have to water as much in the summer months. We are getting great results, still have fruit trying to ripen in this cold weather.
It’s really not that hard nor too expensive to amend soil. Trust me. I work once a week lol. You can get most if not every thing at the same store in just a few minutes.
I agree, but after talking to Gary and some things we discussed off camera, the additional items can be useful too. I'm trying both to see how it goes over time.
@@RAREDRAGONFRUITGary already told you pure sand is the king.
i’m gonna borrow some sand from the beach
Lol. The bigger the grains, the better ;)
I have an experiment for those who had the misfortune---my case unfortunately--of potting their plants before viewing this video. I neglected to add sand, biochar, or pumice to my mix. My proposed solution: I'm first adding about a 1" layer of play sand--my reasoniong will follow--to the top of the pots and allowing gravity and watering to draw the sand down through the existing mix. I think play sand will work better than courser sand here because the finer grains should penetrate down easier than course grain sand. And, as my pots are already full of mix, the finer grained sand won't just wash away through the weep holes at the bottom of my pots. If this works, I'll add another about 1" layer of sand then do the same with small grain pumice and biochar. This way, over the course of a few years--from the top down--I hope to transform my now less than optimal mix in pots to one my plants should thrive in for at least ten years. As the Fox Farms, perlite, and worm castings mix I used should be good for at least a few years, I can let water and gravity do what they do to change the composition of my existing mix over the next few years rather than start anew from scratch. Just a suggestion.
That's innovative thinking! I bet it would help. I've been repotting for weeks and am almost done! I keep the ratios similar to Gary's Best Top Pot.
It is very confusing! Potting soil is very important base on your area climates, their has not one formula to fit them all! It has been more experiment!
Not really, these plants do best with organic compost as a top dressing. Sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite are excellent ingredients that can be used anywhere to grow these plants.
So dont use foxfarm soil
It’s great to top dress, not for potting soil.
@@RAREDRAGONFRUIT yikes I have all ready use it for my dragon fruit cuttings
@@RAREDRAGONFRUIT I notice that the grafting dragon fruit guy uses fox farm soil
@@tristanamacker733 It’s a great top soil, not good for potting soil beyond 3 years in my opinion.
@@tristanamacker733He had it on top and used Gary’s soil now in pot
whats up with that cancer label on the white bag man
Lol, California is scared that we will inhale this for fun? It's on most bags, probably because people eat Tide Pods
Lol sand blooper
Haha! Like an broken hour glass