Fantastic build Matt. I have just purchased a 399 proline and looking to do some mods also. Great information in your vid. I can see that most of the frame is riveted. Did you need to do any welding?
Cheers Nope no welding. Rock solid with rivets. I have all the info and tech details here mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/ Good luck with the build. Enjoy it!
Absolutely love this vid I am thinking of doing the same to my 370 propline could u do a more in death videio of it fishing all the hatches and set up pls
Nicely done mate, I'm doing something similar but a saltwater version with aluminum panels instead of wood, using SeaDek instead of carpet with my 2006 Quintrex 390 Explorer. I'm curious how much the boat now weighs with everything you've added?
Hey mate, not sure on the end weight. I estimated my on road weight at around 500kg including trailer. Trailer is 180kg, motor is 62kg, boat weight was 111kg, with the work done on guessing this is now around 220kg + motor. Sorry this is not exact. Hope it helps.
Awesome build Matt, as a fellow Aussie I have searched for Australian builds, found this on the TBN (Michael Lopez) channel. About to start at 3.4m Stacer project with my 14yr old, will be his first boat. Your build will serve as inspiration to ours, so thank you!!!! BTW, what are the hatch hinges you used?? They look very neat, i like the angled look. Thanks again! Adam & Riley, Melbourne 👍🏻🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺👍🏻
TheTorkerman-Adam Also, (just in case you haven't seen this) some of the info I've posted here may be helpful mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/ Cheers
Matt's Fishing Blog ok thanks, used to shop there when we lived in Sydney, had a 26ft Bertram mored at the spit, so yep... We were regular shoppers lol. Thanks, ill check out the blog!! Tight lines mate.
Thanks for the great feedback everyone Someone messaged a question about anchor storage now the Minn Kota battery is up front. I have a slim anchor that slips into the front well under the carpet flap. Also have a cutting board and a few other things stored in there. Cheers Matt
Hey Matt I want to fit the back casting floors to my boat, I wont be buying a motor for a while and wondered if you could give me the angled cut out measurements, I will be getting the same motor,thanks in advance, cheers Paul.
Paul Goodey hey Paul Exactly which section do you need mate? Do you need the rear hatch door size? The rear middle hatch opening is actually not perfect on mine and I'm thinking of reducing the door size slightly because the motor can't be fully lifted without the hatch door open.
Chris Berge sounds awesome here are all the details on how I did the timber mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/tinny-flooring/ hope it helps. Let me know how it goes. Would love to see photos. Cheers!
hello matt I've been looking at your webpage and starting to note all the supplies i need for my custom tinny, just like to know where you bought the Fuller Rapid Grip Gel?
Hi Andres Glad the info has been helpful. The gel came from Whitworths. Not the cheapest product but worth the extra cost for a better end product. Good luck with it.
Hey Matt, I have got my floor frame in, sturdy as, just wondered once you have the ply carpeted and fitted did you screw through the angle into the ply to secure it all?
Paul Goodey hey Paul I put the floor down, drilled through the floor and frame, then hand tapped the hole with a threading die so the aluminium fame has a thread. I then used Tef Gel in each screw hole and on each screw before screwing stainless screws. The Tef Gel is a must to prevent galvanic corrosion. I used this method of tapping a thread for each hole rather than self tapping screws so I can unscrew the floor without the screws comming loose. I have read a lot about self tapping screws coming loose over time. This method takes longer but is well worth it IMO. Cheers
great job matt, i am attempting the same sort off fit out on a 3.99 explorer, just a couple of questions, what sort of screws did you use to fix the timber? and did you use anything on the screws to stop the metals reacting. On your pull up tabs did you put a bolt through them or just staple them in place? Thanks Matt
Hi Desmond I used a stainless steel threaded screw from Whitworths. Here is a summary of the process: I put the floor down, drilled through the floor and frame, then hand tapped the hole with a threading die so the aluminium fame has a thread. I then used Tef Gel in each screw hole and on each screw before screwing stainless screws. The Tef Gel is a must to prevent galvanic corrosion. I used this method of tapping a thread for each hole rather than self tapping screws so I can unscrew the floor without the screws comming loose. I have read a lot about self tapping screws coming loose over time. This method takes longer but is well worth it IMO. For the pull tabs, I screwed through into the timber with a SS timber screw with washer to increase holding strength. Hope this helps mate
how come everyone goes with wood flooring and not aluminium? wouldnt the weight be very noticeable? or is the price difference that big? is there any other benefits of wood flooring? ease to cut and obtain?
hey Matt that's exactly what I want to avoid, so say distances from back of boat flat along floor to the hatch and hatch widths, hope this makes sense . cheers Paul.
Tom Roesler Hi Tom Somewhere between 13 & 14K. Boat + motor + Trailer $7600 (new), the wrap $1K (non essential but I love it), Minn Kota Riptide + charger + mount + battery ($2700), Build was around $2500 - carpet, timber, metal, rivets, screws, timber sealant, electrics, solder, live well, bilge pump, sounder etc etc. I budgeted as much as possible without compromising. Things that surprised me were the price of good glue, stainless steel staples, timber sealant. These were a lot more expensive than I expected. Non of this includes the time I spent. I loved every bit of doing it and so far its great on the water. Hope this helps. Cheers Matt
Looks great Mat, I am doing a similar reno when I get my boat. A question with the transom supports left and right at top did you rivet the angle on ? did the rivets go all the way through? I have a finished paint job.
Paul Goodey Hi Paul. yep AA rivets all the way through. This was one of the trickiest sections because the transom has a subtle curve. Shipping the angle was not easy. The rivets were not a problem especially seeing they sit about 1ft above the waterline when at rest. Hope this helps. good luck with your boat
Paul Goodey Hi Paul. yep AA rivets all the way through. This was one of the trickiest sections because the transom has a subtle curve. Shapping the angle was not easy. The rivets were not a problem especially seeing they sit about 1ft above the waterline when at rest. Hope this helps. good luck with your boat
excellent build mate! i have a stacer 389 sea sprite. the 1.6mm bottom is proving to be a little weak. cracks near the right hand chine, doesnt like the inshore waves i think. is yours 1.6mm or 3mm?
Blitzcast Fishing New Caledonia cheers mate, mine is 1.6 as well. So far I've had no problems (touch wood). That said I try not to push her too hard and I tend to keep the plane angle a bit flat so the V is working the water more. Cuts a bit off the top end speed but it saves the hull. How bad are your cracks?
Matt's Fishing Blog im getting the 3rd crack repaired this week this 3rd crack is very small the other 2 were around 3 to 5 cm just 2 or 3 mm in from the chine weld. i might take ur advice and trim her down to get the v in more and see how i go. only on right hand side where she gets alot of chop. nothing on the left hand side. have had the boat since 2012.
Scott Willis One piece drop in from whitworths. I've got some details and pics here mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/tinny-pimp-electrics/ Cheers
Hi Levii, Somewhere between 13 & 14K. Boat + motor + Trailer $7600 (new), the wrap $1K (non essential but I love it), Minn Kota Riptide + charger + mount + battery ($2700), Build was around $2500 - carpet, timber, metal, rivets, screws, timber sealant, electrics, solder, live well, bilge pump, sounder etc etc. I budgeted as much as possible without compromising. Things that surprised me were the price of good glue, stainless steel staples, timber sealant. These were a lot more expensive than I expected. Non of this includes the time I spent. I loved every bit of doing it and so far its great on the water. Hope this helps. Cheers Matt
No Problems. I got so much information from on-line I really wanted to give back by sharing how I did things. I put plenty of info on my blog here: mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/ Nothing too serious, just an online diary really.
Hi Levii Paris The live well and pump are from Whitworths. It's only 30L but it's fine for what I'm doing and the size of the boat. If I was doing comps again I would definitely need more water. Here's a link to the live well www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=136&item=36463&intAbsolutePage= cheers Matt
Paul Goodey hey mate, the stern hatch measured from the inside has the following measurements: length: 425 (stern to bow) width: 440 the gap for the motor when the lid is down: 105. this gap is not big enough for the motor to be raised to locked up position. it needs to be 170 to be able to lock the motor up without opening the hatch. The lid is 320 long and 440 wide. All measurements are in mm and include attached carpet. I think the size would be fairly forgiving. the biggest consideration would be if you want to be able to raise the motor with the hatch closed. I have to open mine to raise the motor, which is fine because I only lock it up occasionally and when I do I just open the hatch (if that makes sense). I've got some images and drawing if you need clarification. If you want these just message me through my blog mattsfishingblog.com and I will email them to you. cheers Matt
Best aluminum boat build on YT by far!!!! Beautiful
You absolute legend! What an awesome job
That's excellent mate you have given me some great ideas on my build. Cheers 👍
Awesome video bro and nice ideas for the deck and storage
Love this video man that just makes a boat so much better in every way
Great build mate great work
Looks awesome Matt, well done.
Legend, what a great job. Looks incredible.
very cool and simple, love the rod locker! hey Tight lines ..
What did the wrap set you back want to get my 3.8m done
About $1K from memory but that was over 6yrs ago so I have no idea what it would be now. Good luck with it.
Sweet , you did great job look totally professionally done.
Ficou simplesmente FANTÁSTICO, congratulações pelo capricho, ficou show.
Fantastic build Matt. I have just purchased a 399 proline and looking to do some mods also. Great information in your vid. I can see that most of the frame is riveted. Did you need to do any welding?
Cheers
Nope no welding. Rock solid with rivets.
I have all the info and tech details here
mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/
Good luck with the build. Enjoy it!
Absolutely love this vid I am thinking of doing the same to my 370 propline could u do a more in death videio of it fishing all the hatches and set up pls
Nicely done mate, I'm doing something similar but a saltwater version with aluminum panels instead of wood, using SeaDek instead of carpet with my 2006 Quintrex 390 Explorer. I'm curious how much the boat now weighs with everything you've added?
Hey mate, not sure on the end weight. I estimated my on road weight at around 500kg including trailer. Trailer is 180kg, motor is 62kg, boat weight was 111kg, with the work done on guessing this is now around 220kg + motor. Sorry this is not exact.
Hope it helps.
Awesome build Matt, as a fellow Aussie I have searched for Australian builds, found this on the TBN (Michael Lopez) channel. About to start at 3.4m Stacer project with my 14yr old, will be his first boat. Your build will serve as inspiration to ours, so thank you!!!! BTW, what are the hatch hinges you used?? They look very neat, i like the angled look. Thanks again!
Adam & Riley, Melbourne 👍🏻🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺👍🏻
TheTorkerman-Adam Thanks Adam and Riley!
The hinges were from Whitworths so they should be easy to find.
Good luck with the job.
👍🇦🇺👍
TheTorkerman-Adam
Also, (just in case you haven't seen this) some of the info I've posted here may be helpful
mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/
Cheers
Matt's Fishing Blog ok thanks, used to shop there when we lived in Sydney, had a 26ft Bertram mored at the spit, so yep... We were regular shoppers lol. Thanks, ill check out the blog!! Tight lines mate.
Great job!
I noticed that you must live near the northern beaches where did you get your wrap from for boat looking to do the same thing
Nice build mate 👍
loving the upgrade. very classy. I did something similar to mine, minus the cool graphics. couldn't justify the cost vs function equation
That blog is gold mate thank you for doing all the legwork for me (how’s it held up over the years?)
Thanks for the great feedback everyone
Someone messaged a question about anchor storage now the Minn Kota battery is up front.
I have a slim anchor that slips into the front well under the carpet flap. Also have a cutting board and a few other things stored in there.
Cheers
Matt
Hi there. Sorry I did not notice what hp motor you had on there ? How does that Suzi run ?
Awesome job man
Hey Matt I want to fit the back casting floors to my boat, I wont be buying a motor for a while and wondered if you could give me the angled cut out measurements, I will be getting the same motor,thanks in advance,
cheers Paul.
Paul Goodey
hey Paul
Exactly which section do you need mate? Do you need the rear hatch door size?
The rear middle hatch opening is actually not perfect on mine and I'm thinking of reducing the door size slightly because the motor can't be fully lifted without the hatch door open.
Great work mate!
Awesome build mate. On the floor up rights, what material is packed under the angle to the floor ribs?
Stupid question..... whats with the bottles under the floor?? Is it for extra floatation??? Just cant understand why it needed extra floatation......
Hey mate whats the reason behind the milk bottles please
Really nice job
You did a bang up job fella. What did it cost you for all the mods minus the decals?
Looks awesome mate I'm setting my 3.7 m up now . What did you use to seal the plywood with . I'm using cd ply
Chris Berge sounds awesome here are all the details on how I did the timber mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/tinny-flooring/ hope it helps. Let me know how it goes. Would love to see photos. Cheers!
How does the suzuki 30 go pushing it? Is that 2 or 4 stroke?
Hey Matt great build really inspired Wondering where U can get the graphics from
Here is a link to all the tech and build details. There is a section on the wrap.
Hope it helps
Cheers👍
mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/
Hey Matt how did you go with washing the boat with the carpets, was it all sweet to hose down and did it retain fishy/damp smell
hello matt I've been looking at your webpage and starting to note all the supplies i need for my custom tinny, just like to know where you bought the Fuller Rapid Grip Gel?
Hi Andres
Glad the info has been helpful.
The gel came from Whitworths. Not the cheapest product but worth the extra cost for a better end product.
Good luck with it.
@@mattsfishingblog8898 it’s been a huge help I have it saved on my laptop thank you so much for getting back to me.
Nice build, wondering what model mincoda that is, how how much she set you back with the i pilot. 👍🏼
Hey Matt, I have got my floor frame in, sturdy as, just wondered once you have the ply carpeted and fitted did you screw through the angle into the ply to secure it all?
Paul Goodey hey Paul
I put the floor down, drilled through the floor and frame, then hand tapped the hole with a threading die so the aluminium fame has a thread. I then used Tef Gel in each screw hole and on each screw before screwing stainless screws. The Tef Gel is a must to prevent galvanic corrosion.
I used this method of tapping a thread for each hole rather than self tapping screws so I can unscrew the floor without the screws comming loose. I have read a lot about self tapping screws coming loose over time.
This method takes longer but is well worth it IMO.
Cheers
Top job, Matt, cheers Paul.
How much was the casting deck , the floor and the live well all together with out the sounder and e.t.c
hey mate just wondering where you got the black hinges from thank you
Whitworths 👍
Love your boat getting something similar stessco bad tracker 389
Very well done!!
Mint build. Is this a clark tinny? I just bought a clark 375 and looks very similar. Just wondering about the weight. How much do you think you added?
great job matt, i am attempting the same sort off fit out on a 3.99 explorer, just a couple of questions, what sort of screws did you use to fix the timber? and did you use anything on the screws to stop the metals reacting. On your pull up tabs did you put a
bolt through them or just staple them in place? Thanks Matt
Hi Desmond
I used a stainless steel threaded screw from Whitworths.
Here is a summary of the process:
I put the floor down, drilled through the floor and frame, then hand tapped the hole with a threading die so the aluminium fame has a thread. I then used Tef Gel in each screw hole and on each screw before screwing stainless screws. The Tef Gel is a must to prevent galvanic corrosion.
I used this method of tapping a thread for each hole rather than self tapping screws so I can unscrew the floor without the screws comming loose. I have read a lot about self tapping screws coming loose over time.
This method takes longer but is well worth it IMO.
For the pull tabs, I screwed through into the timber with a SS timber screw with washer to increase holding strength.
Hope this helps mate
how come everyone goes with wood flooring and not aluminium? wouldnt the weight be very noticeable? or is the price difference that big? is there any other benefits of wood flooring? ease to cut and obtain?
Sombody You Dont Know IMO wood is easier to work with and is more forgiving.
Matt's Fishing Blog
ohhh i see. i didn't think about the process of working on each material. thanks!
Sick rig mate
really nice mat
Awesome mate
Do you think this could be done to a 310 dart (Quintrex)?
Weapon! Where do you stow your anchors now that the battery is up front?
hey Matt that's exactly what I want to avoid, so say distances from back of boat flat along floor to the hatch and hatch widths, hope this makes sense .
cheers Paul.
you need to change the pin your motor is in. It will will make your boat faster and you can get on the plain faster.
great job!!
Love te boat and its set up! I've just recently bought a 4.3m tinny and looking to do something similar. How much did all this cost? Thanks.
Tom Roesler Hi Tom Somewhere between 13 & 14K. Boat + motor + Trailer $7600 (new), the wrap $1K (non essential but I love it), Minn Kota Riptide + charger + mount + battery ($2700), Build was around $2500 - carpet, timber, metal, rivets, screws, timber sealant, electrics, solder, live well, bilge pump, sounder etc etc. I budgeted as much as possible without compromising. Things that surprised me were the price of good glue, stainless steel staples, timber sealant. These were a lot more expensive than I expected. Non of this includes the time I spent. I loved every bit of doing it and so far its great on the water. Hope this helps. Cheers Matt
How much did this set up cost ? looks mint
Hey Mate, just done a similar thing with my tinny, was just wondering what hinges you used, the ones iv got just aren't doing the job
Hey mate
I just used some plastic ones from Whitworths. Sorry I don't know the name. Seem to be working fine. Good luck with it.
Hi mate, cool little setup! What did you use to seal your marine ply?
Also, is that Bayview boat ramp?
Yep, Bayview boat ramp.
All the details re flooring are here
mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/tinny-flooring/
👍
@@matttinker2350 thanks mate! Much appreciated 👍🏽
Looks great Mat, I am doing a similar reno when I get my boat. A question with the transom supports left and right at top did you rivet the angle on ? did the rivets go all the way through? I have a finished paint job.
Paul Goodey
Hi Paul.
yep AA rivets all the way through. This was one of the trickiest sections because the transom has a subtle curve. Shipping the angle was not easy. The rivets were not a problem especially seeing they sit about 1ft above the waterline when at rest.
Hope this helps.
good luck with your boat
Paul Goodey
Hi Paul.
yep AA rivets all the way through. This was one of the trickiest sections because the transom has a subtle curve. Shapping the angle was not easy. The rivets were not a problem especially seeing they sit about 1ft above the waterline when at rest.
Hope this helps.
good luck with your boat
🤙 Great job
excellent build mate! i have a stacer 389 sea sprite. the 1.6mm bottom is proving to be a little weak. cracks near the right hand chine, doesnt like the inshore waves i think. is yours 1.6mm or 3mm?
Blitzcast Fishing New Caledonia cheers mate, mine is 1.6 as well. So far I've had no problems (touch wood). That said I try not to push her too hard and I tend to keep the plane angle a bit flat so the V is working the water more. Cuts a bit off the top end speed but it saves the hull. How bad are your cracks?
Matt's Fishing Blog im getting the 3rd crack repaired this week this 3rd crack is very small the other 2 were around 3 to 5 cm just 2 or 3 mm in from the chine weld. i might take ur advice and trim her down to get the v in more and see how i go. only on right hand side where she gets alot of chop. nothing on the left hand side. have had the boat since 2012.
Blitzcast Fishing New Caledonia how far along the hull are the cracks? Just wondering if there is a spot I should keep and eye on
Matt's Fishing Blog between rear and front bench seats right hand side more towards the front bench.
Blitzcast Fishing New Caledonia thx mate, will definitely keep an eye on it.
Where did u get the bait tank mate. Is it a one piece drop in thing or do you mount the tank then the lid over the top
Scott Willis
One piece drop in from whitworths.
I've got some details and pics here
mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/tinny-pimp-electrics/
Cheers
Looks sick
WOW! Go Matt!!
nice job Mate...
What livewell is that?
nice rig mate
how much did the wrap cost? or did you print it yourself
Where and how did u get the wrap done
Very cool
Was there any foam in those seats?
How much did it cost
That is the coolest small boat I've seen man. I have a boat but it's not that cool.....
Looks good. Just need a bimini and a nice comfy seat.
Super cool! Only thing is all that extra weight
What boat is that?
How much did u pay all up including the boat
Hi Levii, Somewhere between 13 & 14K. Boat + motor + Trailer $7600 (new), the wrap $1K (non essential but I love it), Minn Kota Riptide + charger + mount + battery ($2700), Build was around $2500 - carpet, timber, metal, rivets, screws, timber sealant, electrics, solder, live well, bilge pump, sounder etc etc. I budgeted as much as possible without compromising. Things that surprised me were the price of good glue, stainless steel staples, timber sealant. These were a lot more expensive than I expected. Non of this includes the time I spent. I loved every bit of doing it and so far its great on the water. Hope this helps. Cheers Matt
Matt's Fishing Blog ok thanks thinking of doing something similar to my tinny
No Problems. I got so much information from on-line I really wanted to give back by sharing how I did things. I put plenty of info on my blog here: mattsfishingblog.com/tinny-pimp-project/ Nothing too serious, just an online diary really.
Matt's Fishing Blog We're abouts did u get the bait tank from
Hi Levii Paris The live well and pump are from Whitworths. It's only 30L but it's fine for what I'm doing and the size of the boat. If I was doing comps again I would definitely need more water.
Here's a link to the live well www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=136&item=36463&intAbsolutePage=
cheers
Matt
Where did u get the bait tank from??
Z-Man Fishing Whitworths. It's been good, no problems at all with it 👍
Matt's Fishing Blog yea I’m thinking of doing a similar thing to my little 3.8m tinny
How much was the wrap
HyperOverload around $1k 👍
Epic
I'd buy this
thats really pretty boat
What sizes motor?
30 👍
@@matttinker2350 thanks
Seats ?
Middle hatch.
cheers Paul.
Paul Goodey
hey mate, the stern hatch measured from the inside has the following measurements:
length: 425 (stern to bow)
width: 440
the gap for the motor when the lid is down: 105. this gap is not big enough for the motor to be raised to locked up position. it needs to be 170 to be able to lock the motor up without opening the hatch.
The lid is 320 long and 440 wide.
All measurements are in mm and include attached carpet.
I think the size would be fairly forgiving. the biggest consideration would be if you want to be able to raise the motor with the hatch closed. I have to open mine to raise the motor, which is fine because I only lock it up occasionally and when I do I just open the hatch (if that makes sense).
I've got some images and drawing if you need clarification. If you want these just message me through my blog mattsfishingblog.com and I will email them to you.
cheers
Matt
Thanks Matt, for the help much appreciated.
What boat
nice
do you want to sell it
Z.H Outdoors
Maybe next year. Cheers mate.
Could you help me do my
Hey mate can u help me make a deck for a tinny
Mx First sorry mate, sooo time poor. good luck with it.
cool
Awesome job, needs a Chair for the Captain though, and a nice one not a bit of foam.. hehehe
You just needed a USB outlet and you’d be set!
Why does everyone have a white trolling motor 😂
ham and cheese well yeah but I've seen a lot of people with white ones in fresh wayer
ham and cheese oh
want to sell that boat