I just watch my oil pressure gauge, but now I'm ordering some replacement sensors. Thank you so much for these videos. We own three of these Cabbies, and it's a pain to figure out a lot of the quirks!
The system is actually well designed with a redundancy. You have a sensor for the warning light, and a separate sensor for the gauge. So, if one of those sensors fail, then you have the other to cross monitor performance. Maybe it was a redundancy, maybe it was just easier for it to be designed that way. However, I know that helicopters have a similar design for the engine and transmission oil pressure indications and the associated cautions. Glad to hear the videos are helpful. Hope they keep the cars on the road!
Ooohhh TDI swap!! You going ALH or BEW? I've got an 03 ALH (I've made a few videos on it). Just rolled over 200k. Such a great car and amazing engine. I kind of want to do a 2.0 TDI swap to my brown rabbit....
Hi how u doing have problem wit my vw mark golf the oil. Light keep come. On when u Rev it just about 3rpm I did the test u show in ur video can I send u video so u can see what going wit my golf
Thank you again for your wonderful video I do have a question about my Volkswagen 1991 Cabriolet oil light comes on with a buzzing sound only when the car is driving however when idling it does not I tried to replace the oil sensor and is not fix the problem the old oil scent high pressure oil sensor was leaking
Have you done the tests outlined in the video? The system is only designed based off of rpm. Not speed. Try revving the engine above 2000 rpm for about 5 seconds and see if the light comes on (like I do in the video).
Thanks for the infor my cluster all gauges are not working only battery and indicator lights works, when i turn the key on there is clicking sound from the relay as if hazards are on
Based on your analysis, and on what you said on the last minute of the video, would it be safe to say that if the light stays on after u start the car, the problem is the low pressure sensor or canister like you called it?
For the first sensor on the oil filter, you said if it spikes when ground everything works and you just need to replace the sensor. Does that mean it isn’t suppose to spike when ground or it is?
Watch the video again and it should be clear if you watch the inset video along with my arm motions. But I’ll also briefly explain. Grounding the wire should cause the temperature gauge to indicate an infinitely hot temperature. If your oil temperature has been indicating incorrectly, and your gauge spikes when you ground it, then replace the sensor.
@@Morrison647 Si puse un bulbo de un poco menos de precion Creo que en lugar de 1.5 bar a 1.4/1.5 Asegúrate que cuando haces tierra con el cable del bulbo se apaga la luz roja Si no se apaga tienes algo en el cableado
I thanks for you video. I have a 1.6 2002 chico model we did replaces sensors oil is the right oil we did a pressure test engin is still very good but still that buzzer problem please help me
I have the same issue I replace the oil pump and the high pressure switch but I keep having the oil light flashing and buzzing should I replace also the low pressure switch. Also I’m using 20w50 oil is there anything else should I be looking at???
Hi I have a question. I had my sensors replaced and I get the oil pressure light when I turn the a/c on or when the rpm’s drop. I don’t know what the problem is. Also the engine vibrates heavily when the a/c is switched on when idle. It’s fine when driving. I’m not sure what to do.
Is it a mechanical one or electric with sensor? The gauge in the center console works great, especially if the two pressure switches work. Quite frankly, a gauge and a pressure switch is also how military aircraft are designed because it’s a great redundancy. That’s why I never bothered to fiddle with installing yet another thing. I have two switches and a gauge. That’s enough redundancy for me. If one of them breaks, I just have to fix it ASAP so that there is a redundancy again.
i think u just saved me alot of money... god bless this video.. been having that same problem with my high pressure sensors... as soon as i reached 2000rpm or so... thanx again Mr
nkosikhona ezzyboy spelmandla glad I could help!! There is an oil pump changing video on the channel as well if you decide to change that. Not a hard job either.
also wanted to know if the vehicle was standing for a few years would tje oil filter housing habe any possibility of clogging up with oil to interfere with oil pressure maybe ... im Changing that today due to a problem i found on the housing ans well as getting a new sensor for it...
Hi, I have the same issue with my Vw Scirocco mk2 (1985) but with the temperature red light flashing constantly! I'm trying to find which sensor to change but can't find it! I'm in the uk 🇬🇧 if it makes any difference? 👍
Sometimes the gauges do that and I haven’t quite figured it out. My next step is complete gauge rebuilds with all new electronics. That might fix it. But, I’m not quite there het
Just a note, the high pressure one is actually a switch. The Bentley manual refers to it as a switch. I believe the term "sensor" is actually used for a component that, in conjunction with a gauge, measures pressure or temperature. Although there are many other types of sensors too besides a sensor/gauge combo. A sensor would have an internal resistance which would change in reaction to a change in temperature or pressure (coolant, oil) to give you an actual indication. I have the feeling you are well aware of this and inadvertently said "sensor".
K Stewart you are correct. I mean, in a way it is a sensor giving a binary value of “yes” or “no”. Not trying to get into an argument at all. I could’ve been more clear. Appreciate the feedback!
I love your videos! My 1986 Cabriolet just blew the fuse for my flashers/turn signals. I replaced the fuse and relay but I have no hazard or turn signals... any ideas where else I can look?
I blew the 4 fuse replaced it and replaced my relay but still no hazards or turn signals. It's driving me crazy... they worked and then poof no dice. Thanks for the fast replay 😊 I appreciate it.
@@CandyBond83 what caused you to blow the fuse? These things are always simple. Not easy, but simple. Bust out the multimeter. Check that the fuse is getting power on both sides. People always jump to conclusions and think wiring went bad or something. That’s almost never the case, that wouldn’t make sense. Unless if you saw smoke rising or were snipping around on wires for fun.
I was doing my turn signal on front passenger... I think I arked it and blew the fuse but now I have no turn signal or hazards. Maybe I fried something when I arked it?
Awesome video. Can you please tell me what are all the cluster indicator lights for. I notice different color types and have a few on that don’t know what they are for. Thanks
To add, my oil light starts blinking after about 20 to 25 mins that i have been driving the car, it only does this after that time and when i come to a stop, if i accelerate above 1500 rpm it goes away. Also, my friend conected a manometer i think its what is called, directly where the high pressure sensor goes and its readings where higher than my inside middle gauge. Any ideas why this could be? I am hoping its the canister, but i rather be sure. I hope you can help. Thanks
could I ask you a favor? I have an MK1 Rabbit 1983 GLi convertible and the temperature indicator is rising and the fan is not turning on. It turns on normally when I turn on the A/C. Could you send me a picture of your panel at normal working temperature? Mine is getting very close to maximum temperature, marking 3/4+-. Thank you and I love your videos, keep going
1993 VW Cabriolet, Digi, 174K. I have replaced both sensors with the 1.8 bar 1 Pin & the 2 prong Bosch Oil Pressure Switch; 0.5 to 0.3 Bar; When I start the car she is fine until it heats up. When the car drops below 2,000 rpm it flashes. I have driven this car 6k so far, so thinking it's not the oil pump. I use an OE Mann oil filter and 20W -50 castrol oil with zinc. Thoughts?
@@OlisGarage TY for the fast response, your videos rock! What should the bar be at all idles? I assume if just below 1 bar at low idle, best to replace with a new oil pump? I see you have another video on that process. Is there a recommended pump to use/upgrade?
Hello Oli, she is actually running almost 35 psi at 2000 rpm. Assume next steps is to change the two sensors again? If so is it the 1.8 for the single prong and the .3 for the dual prong ?
The light goes on below 1800 rpm and psi is reading 18 at 10 rpm, so baffled? I have all the parts to replace with ABA pump, but would like to avoid if not needed. TY!
My oil light at the cluster doesn’t turn on when I turn the ignition switch on. I’ve tried all these tests on this video and can’t seem to get the light to turn on. Could it be a bad light bulb in the cluster ?
My mk1 cabrio from 1992 with a 2H engine, do have a canister oil pressure with one connector only. I can see in your video that the canister you have is with 2 connectors. I can also see that I have the 2 cables you mention (1 x blue/yellow and 1 x yellow). I am more and more guessing that my canister is not original when i see your video.
Hey Oli, I have the problem that my oil light only starts blinking when the engine is getting warm! So around 90 degrees, the light starts flashing and sounding, but it stops immediately when I push the gas over around 2500 rpm! But it starts flashing again after a time?!? Do you have a solution? Thanks Oliver from Germany✌️
Hallo Oliver! Es hört sich an als ob der Öldruck zu niedrig ist, oder der 0.3bar Sensor defekt ist. Welches Öl verwendest du? Ich verwende 10W30 im Winter und 15W40 oder 20W50 im Sommer (ähnliche Temperaturen bei mir wie in Deutschland). Dieses könnte ein Unterschied machen. Der Sensor mag defekt sein. Dieses könnte man mit ein Messgerät testen. Es ist relativ einfach. Nur den sensor ausschrauben und Messgerät rein schrauben. Auto starten und Messgerät anschauen. translation: it sounds as if the oil pressure is too low, or that the 0.3bar sensor is defective. Which oil do you use? I use 10W30 in the winter and 15W40 or 20W50 in the summer (similar temperature by me as in Germany). This can make a difference. The sensor could be defective. You can test this with a oil pressure tester. It's relatively simple. Unscrew the sensor and screw in the pressure gauge. Start the car and read the gauge.
Are you running the correct oil for the temperature? In warmer climates 20W50 is recommended. If you change the sensors and the problem persists, find a mechanical oil pressure gauge and measure the pressure. If that indicates low, you probably have engine issues. You can try upgrading to a high volume pump which may also help. I have a video of that as well
Test the pressure with a mechanical gauge. Then with that info you can figure out if the engine is messed up or if you just need to figure out which sensor is broken
Hey there. Love the Cabriolet vids! Really well done and helpful. I have a ‘92 and noticed that you too have the same two red warning lights on the dash. I’ve been told that they relate to the air bag. Can you confirm? Thx, Steve
Hi Oli can you please assist me i overall my mk1 1992 model engin but the light go's on and makes a buzz sound i replace the sensor on the oil filter but the light is still on when i drive it comes on and if i gave little gas it stop buzzing and but starts buzzing again and the oil comes out from the breather hose on valve cover tnx in advance.....
Not sure if you replaced the right sensor. Did you ground the wire when the car was off to check if it turns the light off? Sounds like you have serious blow by issues that need to be addressed.
I did all your tests. This was the result Blue wire did nothing whether it was connected or grounded. No light at all except the battery light but I dont think that has anything to do with the battery. I tested the High pressure sensor..... nothing happens when connected but light blinks at more than 2000 rpm for 2 seconds.
Kelly Sutherland do NOT ground the blue high pressure wire for the test. The key is to NOT ground it. If you ground the blue wire, you tell the system the high pressure switch works. (The way that sensor works is that it closes or grounds the system over 1.8 bar). You need to disconnect the blue wire. Start the car. Oil light should be off. Rev to 2500 for a few seconds, light should blink until you shut off the vehicle. If this occurs, then the system works properly and your high pressure switch is bad.
@@OlisGarage Hey Oli! This last response seems counter to the video itself, but it's likely me misunderstanding. So I understand, if I am experiencing the light blinking after 2000+rpms with switch plugged in run this test: on the high pressure switch, disconnent the wire, start the car (light should be off) and rev to over 2000 for a few seconds...if light comes on with that switch disconnected, its the switch that needs replacing (don't ground at all during this test)?
@@coryclaypole5710 start watching around 4:00. But you’re mostly right. We need to test the system. So we first tell the system that there is no oil pressure (sensor unplugged and wire dangling). The light should blink over 2k rpm. Then we tell the system the oil pressure is good by grounding the wire. The light should not come on over 2k rpm. I do both of these tests to test the two conditions of the oil pressure warning system (pressure is good, pressure is not good). If it passes the two tests, then you know your electronics are good and the switch is the issue
My Mother had a 1982 Volkswagen Jetta N/A diesel until 2003. The oil pressure warning buzzer would turn on all of the time very frequently. She would whack the dash until it went off. It was at the mechanic so many times and NONE of them could repair or disable, not even the dealership techs! BUT WHY could none of them disable the buzzer? By the way her Jetta had the 3 cutouts for gauges in the low section of the dash but they were empty, I remember 20+ years ago she said it was for some performance package or something sporty oriented that she didn't buy at the time of purchase back in 1982.
Hmm, I have no idea how the dealership couldn’t fix that. It isn’t a particularly complicated system. Interesting about the 3 gauges. I’d never heard that cars were sold with the cutouts but no gauges. Not saying it didn’t happen, I just hadn’t heard that before. They were great cars though. The diesel was a little slow, but they ran forever.
@@OlisGarage This was during the year 2000 or 2001 at best - nearly twenty years since the manufacture of this German-made car. Also two other independent mechanic shops. One of them claimed to have fixed it and then on the drive home I remember the buzzer went off again. Everyone was always stumped. But yes the 3 gauges at the bottom weren't there, but the 3 holes were. If I recall there was a black Jetta cover plate (like a delete plate) over them with silver text.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists ooohhh yes I’ve seen some of those cover plates. I guess I never put two and two together that they covered the gauge holes.
Hey Oli I have a question...my cluster clock works andwhen I turn on the lights the light comes on, but everything else doesn't, like my battery light, temp light oil light and also my temp gauge and fuel gauge don't move....any ideas thanks!!
Fernando Rangel it sounds like your voltage regulator needs replacing. I don’t have a video on that (yet!). I’ll update this comment this afternoon with a link on someone else who replaced the voltage regulator.
Then you probably have an iffy connection with your instrument cluster. Try wiggling the connector and seeing if that helps. Be gentle with it, but wiggle it just a little bit. The other option is that your blue Mylar on the cluster is broken somewhere
Hey oil's garage. Mine also blinks but when I do the high beams and low beams switch, the blinking light goes away for a while. In so confused. HELP PLEASE.
@@choncoconcos5912 there can be multiple things going on at once. You can have a faulty sensor and also have a faulty ground in the instrument cluster, or even something else. But I always start with the easy things.
@@choncoconcos5912 I definitely think that there is a problem in the cluster. Adding an additional ground might help the cause (just splice into the brown wire going to the cluster and ground that wire)
@@OlisGarage yes i want to install a pressure oil gauge, the problem is where should i install the sending unit because i saw someone's install it on the head and others installing it next to the filter
Is your car filled with the right amount of oil? That's my first thought. And when it starts blinking, what does the oil pressure gauge do? Does it also show a drop in pressure?
@@OlisGarage It was full. The pressure would drop to around .5 on the gage when I would brake. The ambient temp was high 90s F so that mat have contributed to the old oil + low pressure issue. It's a new-to-me car and i changed the oil and it seems to have resolved the issue. I'm excited to have found your channel. I'd love to see how to remove door cards, etc to repair locks, windows, etc if you have a video wish-list. The holy grail would be a top-replacement video, as there are no good references with the level of detail you give to your content. Keep up the great work. I'm learning a lot from you.
Hi , when i drive the car my sensor does nothing but as soon as it starts to get hot the buzzer starts screaming and the light starts to flash , what can it be
Kelly Sutherland I’m assuming you’re talking about the high pressure sensor. Yes it will fit. Not sure why amazon thinks it won’t. Update. I used that exact part and it worked. Also, if you read the reviews someone says it worked for their 1992 Jetta. That Jetta has the same engine and oil pressure warning system as your cabriolet.
@@OlisGarage This might be a silly thought but could it be that some parts used in the Canadian models are different than the ones in the U.S. model.....I am assuming you are in the United States. Or are they all the same?
Kelly Sutherland I’m in the states. Amazon said it doesn’t fit a 92.. but that’s on their end. I am rather certain this is the same part even in Canada. I didn’t know Canadian cabriolets had very different parts? I know a main difference was daytime running lights.
For anyone here that has the Grey Robert Bentley service manual for Gas,Diesel, and Turbo Diesel 1985-1992, those twits have the location of those 2 switches ass backwards. THE MANUAL IS WRONG! The higher pressure switch (yellow wire) is on the oil filter housing and the low pressure warning switch is on end of the head (blue wire, black stripe). Given that i had paid something like $90 for it back in 1991 when i bought a '91 Jetta TD new, i am rather Pissed. Am having a problem (intermittent also) with my 1986 TD and just discovered this. My '91 had gotten totaled by some a-hole running a Red, would have had the board from it, but another a-hole stole the whole car off a property where i kept it. I did have the engine out of it which i kept before the car was stolen. The location of the switches in the '91 are exactly the same as the '86 with the location of higher and lower ones the same.
I think so you incorrect while saying that blue wire is high pressure, but it's actually wire BLUE D01 (Low Oil Pressure Switch) also same with yellow wire is it actually YELLOW D21(High Oil Pressure Switch) ,but it's not a low pressure switch.
Nope, that is incorrect. The Bentley manual is wrong. Watch the video and see how the car reacts when I unplug the respective wires. I triple checked to make sure I was doing it right.
@@OlisGarage Maybe you are right, because I tried to wire up how I just said, but in that way no flashing light. In your way it started to flashing continiously. When started the engine the flash turned off. :))
Oli's Repairs after it warms up, it blinks under 2k rps at idle. I already replaced the water temperature sensor and it still blinks. Thanks for the reply! Keep up the great videos bro 🙌🏻👍🏻
Aldo Torres what is blinking? I’m assuming the oil pressure light. what oil are you running? What is the average temperature outside? My theory: you’re using too thin oil. Cabby-info.com mentions that a ton of people run 15w40 or even 20w50 in the summer. Appreciate the kind words! :)
Oli's Repairs im talking abt the coolant temperature. Weather here in cali is abt 70’s rn. The oil problem its something else i need to work on. Replaced both sensors and added some lucas oil to thick it a lil. Havent gotten on the road yet cuz im working on the interior 😅
Oil, so I did everything you said here which fixed all the issues but it now created a new one. With car at temperature in idle showing 1 bar, the oil light blinks, when I step on gas pedal pressure goes up and light stops blinking, but it always blinks at idle. What could it be?
Either you have actually low oil pressure at idle or your low pressure sensor needs replaced. Not sure what you replaced/fixed. Run 20W50 oil (assuming it’s somewhat warm where you are) and a Mann filter.
Recovering Libertarian I’ve got a video on fixing the temperature gauge. You might have a faulty radiator temp sensor as well which is not allowing your fan to turn on.
This guy needs more viewers...awesome
Ralph Vickers I agree, high quality videos!
Thanks!If you have any video requests, let me know!
I've got an 89 Cabbie that I haven't started yet...giving me great advice
I just watch my oil pressure gauge, but now I'm ordering some replacement sensors. Thank you so much for these videos. We own three of these Cabbies, and it's a pain to figure out a lot of the quirks!
The system is actually well designed with a redundancy. You have a sensor for the warning light, and a separate sensor for the gauge. So, if one of those sensors fail, then you have the other to cross monitor performance.
Maybe it was a redundancy, maybe it was just easier for it to be designed that way. However, I know that helicopters have a similar design for the engine and transmission oil pressure indications and the associated cautions.
Glad to hear the videos are helpful.
Hope they keep the cars on the road!
@@OlisGarage I bought my 92 Wolfsburg for 400 bucks. Love these go karts so much! Just repaired the headgasket this weekend.
@@thatguy.42 nice!! I did my head gasket as well, though that was before I started making videos. It’s not a bad job. Just a tad tedious.
Super helpful. My son has this car that he uses to drive to school and back. Oil light just came on. We will try these tests!
thanks for the video ! i have a 82 rabbit with a mk4 tdi swap and ive been wiring the dash your videos are a great help
Ooohhh TDI swap!! You going ALH or BEW?
I've got an 03 ALH (I've made a few videos on it). Just rolled over 200k. Such a great car and amazing engine. I kind of want to do a 2.0 TDI swap to my brown rabbit....
it’s a ALH used the s&p mounts clutch cable and wire harness, the car is a blast to drive
oh my god i had it wrong this whole time thank you so much man you just solved my oil light blinking
Cyprian Pawlikowski good to hear!
My oil pressure light was blinking and I replaced the sensor and now it’s burning oil any suggestions what I should look for?
Busy resurrecting a mk2 jetta. Bouta give this a go, thanks dawg👍
Your vids are amazing, if i will have any problems with my cabriolet this will be the first thing to check if you have any solutions!
Hi how u doing have problem wit my vw mark golf the oil. Light keep come. On when u Rev it just about 3rpm I did the test u show in ur video can I send u video so u can see what going wit my golf
Thank you again for your wonderful video I do have a question about my Volkswagen 1991 Cabriolet oil light comes on with a buzzing sound only when the car is driving however when idling it does not I tried to replace the oil sensor and is not fix the problem the old oil scent high pressure oil sensor was leaking
Have you done the tests outlined in the video? The system is only designed based off of rpm. Not speed. Try revving the engine above 2000 rpm for about 5 seconds and see if the light comes on (like I do in the video).
Thanks for the infor my cluster all gauges are not working only battery and indicator lights works, when i turn the key on there is clicking sound from the relay as if hazards are on
Hi i dd the test as u explain and i hve disconnected the low pressure but still the light flashes
Based on your analysis, and on what you said on the last minute of the video, would it be safe to say that if the light stays on after u start the car, the problem is the low pressure sensor or canister like you called it?
My mk1 the oil light doesn't flash with ignition on, infact I've never seen it light up ever but the car still starts fine. What could be the issue?
For the first sensor on the oil filter, you said if it spikes when ground everything works and you just need to replace the sensor. Does that mean it isn’t suppose to spike when ground or it is?
Watch the video again and it should be clear if you watch the inset video along with my arm motions.
But I’ll also briefly explain. Grounding the wire should cause the temperature gauge to indicate an infinitely hot temperature.
If your oil temperature has been indicating incorrectly, and your gauge spikes when you ground it, then replace the sensor.
Todos sus videos son ilustrativos muy informativos
Yo aprendo de sus videos
Excelentes
Me puedes decir como le hizo para apagar el foco , no se nada de inglés
@@Morrison647
Si puse un bulbo de un poco menos de precion
Creo que en lugar de 1.5 bar a 1.4/1.5
Asegúrate que cuando haces tierra con el cable del bulbo se apaga la luz roja
Si no se apaga tienes algo en el cableado
Puse uno bien barato voy a buscar la información y te la mando 👍
So is the yellow wire the ground then?
I thanks for you video. I have a 1.6 2002 chico model we did replaces sensors oil is the right oil we did a pressure test engin is still very good but still that buzzer problem please help me
I have the same issue I replace the oil pump and the high pressure switch but I keep having the oil light flashing and buzzing should I replace also the low pressure switch. Also I’m using 20w50 oil is there anything else should I be looking at???
Follow the video very closely. If the light never turns off, then it has to be the low pressure switch.
Keep up the videos !!!! Need more of this videos !
LE BM thanks! More in the works. Water temperature gauge troubleshooting and repair will be next.
Oli's Repairs I also own a 1984 Vw rabbit and will be doing the valve cover gasket thanks to your videos !!!
is there any problem if we ground whith out switch?
Hi I have a question. I had my sensors replaced and I get the oil pressure light when I turn the a/c on or when the rpm’s drop. I don’t know what the problem is. Also the engine vibrates heavily when the a/c is switched on when idle. It’s fine when driving. I’m not sure what to do.
@@nicoleshadley2889 sounds like you have a legit oil pressure problem. What oil are you running?
What year is your car? Are you in the USA?
I have installed an oil pressure guage. Piece of mind.
Is it a mechanical one or electric with sensor?
The gauge in the center console works great, especially if the two pressure switches work.
Quite frankly, a gauge and a pressure switch is also how military aircraft are designed because it’s a great redundancy. That’s why I never bothered to fiddle with installing yet another thing. I have two switches and a gauge. That’s enough redundancy for me. If one of them breaks, I just have to fix it ASAP so that there is a redundancy again.
i think u just saved me alot of money... god bless this video.. been having that same problem with my high pressure sensors... as soon as i reached 2000rpm or so... thanx again Mr
nkosikhona ezzyboy spelmandla glad I could help!!
There is an oil pump changing video on the channel as well if you decide to change that. Not a hard job either.
@@OlisGarage will give that a try too thanx.. bt my oil pump still new...
also wanted to know if the vehicle was standing for a few years would tje oil filter housing habe any possibility of clogging up with oil to interfere with oil pressure maybe ... im Changing that today due to a problem i found on the housing ans well as getting a new sensor for it...
nkosikhona ezzyboy spelmandla definitely change that. It might not be damaged, but it definitely is old.
Nice Oli ¡ Thanks from Spain
Thank you!
Hi, I have the same issue with my Vw Scirocco mk2 (1985) but with the temperature red light flashing constantly! I'm trying to find which sensor to change but can't find it! I'm in the uk 🇬🇧 if it makes any difference? 👍
Sometimes the gauges do that and I haven’t quite figured it out. My next step is complete gauge rebuilds with all new electronics. That might fix it. But, I’m not quite there het
Just a note, the high pressure one is actually a switch. The Bentley manual refers to it as a switch. I believe the term "sensor" is actually used for a component that, in conjunction with a gauge, measures pressure or temperature. Although there are many other types of sensors too besides a sensor/gauge combo. A sensor would have an internal resistance which would change in reaction to a change in temperature or pressure (coolant, oil) to give you an actual indication. I have the feeling you are well aware of this and inadvertently said "sensor".
K Stewart you are correct. I mean, in a way it is a sensor giving a binary value of “yes” or “no”. Not trying to get into an argument at all. I could’ve been more clear. Appreciate the feedback!
hi Boet,my Mk2 is doing exact thing,I'm gonna follow same procedure hope gonna be sorted thanks
Let me know if it worked. Mk2 uses the same exact system.
I love your videos! My 1986 Cabriolet just blew the fuse for my flashers/turn signals. I replaced the fuse and relay but I have no hazard or turn signals... any ideas where else I can look?
There are two fuses normally that can be affected. Check 4 and 19
I blew the 4 fuse replaced it and replaced my relay but still no hazards or turn signals. It's driving me crazy... they worked and then poof no dice.
Thanks for the fast replay 😊 I appreciate it.
@@CandyBond83 what caused you to blow the fuse? These things are always simple. Not easy, but simple. Bust out the multimeter. Check that the fuse is getting power on both sides.
People always jump to conclusions and think wiring went bad or something. That’s almost never the case, that wouldn’t make sense. Unless if you saw smoke rising or were snipping around on wires for fun.
I was doing my turn signal on front passenger... I think I arked it and blew the fuse but now I have no turn signal or hazards. Maybe I fried something when I arked it?
@@CandyBond83 check the fuses with a multimeter. Remove them and Measure resistance. Then install and make sure 12v is on both sides
Yellow.. blue Nd black wires..which one goes to oil filter..which one goes to the cylinder head?
Awesome video. Can you please tell me what are all the cluster indicator lights for. I notice different color types and have a few on that don’t know what they are for. Thanks
Flashers - green
Battery - red
Osx (oxygen) - yellow. Blank in my car
Oil pressure - red
High beams - blue
Two red lights on the bottom - airbag.
@@OlisGarage Thanks I appreciate your help.
To add, my oil light starts blinking after about 20 to 25 mins that i have been driving the car, it only does this after that time and when i come to a stop, if i accelerate above 1500 rpm it goes away. Also, my friend conected a manometer i think its what is called, directly where the high pressure sensor goes and its readings where higher than my inside middle gauge. Any ideas why this could be? I am hoping its the canister, but i rather be sure. I hope you can help. Thanks
Im having problems with my indicator blinkers. If i tend to indicate the hazard will stay on and not in a blinking position
could I ask you a favor? I have an MK1 Rabbit 1983 GLi convertible and the temperature indicator is rising and the fan is not turning on. It turns on normally when I turn on the A/C. Could you send me a picture of your panel at normal working temperature? Mine is getting very close to maximum temperature, marking 3/4+-. Thank you and I love your videos, keep going
Sounds like you need a new radiator fan switch. Send me an email. It’s listed on the “about” page of my channel
1993 VW Cabriolet, Digi, 174K. I have replaced both sensors with the 1.8 bar 1 Pin & the 2 prong Bosch Oil Pressure Switch; 0.5 to 0.3 Bar; When I start the car she is fine until it heats up. When the car drops below 2,000 rpm it flashes. I have driven this car 6k so far, so thinking it's not the oil pump. I use an OE Mann oil filter and 20W -50 castrol oil with zinc. Thoughts?
@@richardseidman8801 get a mechanical gauge and test the pressure. Your local auto parts will loan you one
@@OlisGarage TY for the fast response, your videos rock! What should the bar be at all idles? I assume if just below 1 bar at low idle, best to replace with a new oil pump? I see you have another video on that process. Is there a recommended pump to use/upgrade?
@@richardseidman8801 at least 30 psi at 2000rpm is what the book says.
Hello Oli, she is actually running almost 35 psi at 2000 rpm. Assume next steps is to change the two sensors again? If so is it the 1.8 for the single prong and the .3 for the dual prong ?
The light goes on below 1800 rpm and psi is reading 18 at 10 rpm, so baffled? I have all the parts to replace with ABA pump, but would like to avoid if not needed. TY!
My oil light at the cluster doesn’t turn on when I turn the ignition switch on. I’ve tried all these tests on this video and can’t seem to get the light to turn on. Could it be a bad light bulb in the cluster ?
Hey Oli. I did all those tests and my oil pressure light doesn’t come on at all. Could it possibly be a bad light bulb ? Thanks
My mk1 cabrio from 1992 with a 2H engine, do have a canister oil pressure with one connector only.
I can see in your video that the canister you have is with 2 connectors.
I can also see that I have the 2 cables you mention (1 x blue/yellow and 1 x yellow).
I am more and more guessing that my canister is not original when i see your video.
It most likely is not. Do you have the 3 gauges in the center console? Which wire isn’t connected?
Thanks! No, I don't have the 3 gauges in the center console. The blue/yellow wire is connected, the yellow is not.@@OlisGarage
When i disconnect the blue/yellow wire on the pressure sender my gauge doesn't peg out........any idea what the cause might be?
What does the gauge do normally? Does it function? Does it do anything when you ground it?
YOU ARE A LIFESAVER!!!!!!
Glad I could help!
Hey Oli,
I have the problem that my oil light only starts blinking when the engine is getting warm! So around 90 degrees, the light starts flashing and sounding, but it stops immediately when I push the gas over around 2500 rpm! But it starts flashing again after a time?!? Do you have a solution? Thanks Oliver from Germany✌️
Hallo Oliver! Es hört sich an als ob der Öldruck zu niedrig ist, oder der 0.3bar Sensor defekt ist.
Welches Öl verwendest du? Ich verwende 10W30 im Winter und 15W40 oder 20W50 im Sommer (ähnliche Temperaturen bei mir wie in Deutschland). Dieses könnte ein Unterschied machen.
Der Sensor mag defekt sein. Dieses könnte man mit ein Messgerät testen. Es ist relativ einfach. Nur den sensor ausschrauben und Messgerät rein schrauben. Auto starten und Messgerät anschauen.
translation: it sounds as if the oil pressure is too low, or that the 0.3bar sensor is defective.
Which oil do you use? I use 10W30 in the winter and 15W40 or 20W50 in the summer (similar temperature by me as in Germany). This can make a difference.
The sensor could be defective. You can test this with a oil pressure tester. It's relatively simple. Unscrew the sensor and screw in the pressure gauge. Start the car and read the gauge.
Great write up man
If I already change all the sensors, it may be that this wrong ??
oil change and oil drain cleaning
Are you running the correct oil for the temperature? In warmer climates 20W50 is recommended.
If you change the sensors and the problem persists, find a mechanical oil pressure gauge and measure the pressure. If that indicates low, you probably have engine issues.
You can try upgrading to a high volume pump which may also help. I have a video of that as well
Hi after driving for about 30 minutes ,when going over the speed humps,the oil light comes on and than goes off
Have you checked how much oil you have in the engine?
Thanks for the video. Where is the best place to sell a VW cabriolet convertible car?
It depends where you are located. However, I don't deal much with buying and selling cars.
Where can I get a wire like the one you used to ground the circuit?
Description updated with a link!
@@OlisGarage Perfect! Thank you!!!
Okay so I just replaced that high pressure sensor and it’s still doing it at high rpm for whT
Great information, London
Glad to help!!
I have the same problem with the oil red light and the buzzing nose but i don't get myne right
Test the pressure with a mechanical gauge. Then with that info you can figure out if the engine is messed up or if you just need to figure out which sensor is broken
Do you have an amazon link to another high pressure sensor? The one listed is unavailable.
Kelly Sutherland amzn.to/3cyaq4O
Hey there. Love the Cabriolet vids! Really well done and helpful. I have a ‘92 and noticed that you too have the same two red warning lights on the dash. I’ve been told that they relate to the air bag. Can you confirm? Thx, Steve
Affirmative. Airbag lights. Disregard them.
@@OlisGarage Unless you live in California and need them to be off when you take your car in for a smog check. Then what?
Hi Oli can you please assist me i overall my mk1 1992 model engin but the light go's on and makes a buzz sound i replace the sensor on the oil filter but the light is still on when i drive it comes on and if i gave little gas it stop buzzing and but starts buzzing again and the oil comes out from the breather hose on valve cover tnx in advance.....
Not sure if you replaced the right sensor. Did you ground the wire when the car was off to check if it turns the light off?
Sounds like you have serious blow by issues that need to be addressed.
I did all your tests. This was the result
Blue wire did nothing whether it was connected or grounded. No light at all except the battery light but I dont think that has anything to do with the battery.
I tested the High pressure sensor..... nothing happens when connected but light blinks at more than 2000 rpm for 2 seconds.
Kelly Sutherland do NOT ground the blue high pressure wire for the test.
The key is to NOT ground it. If you ground the blue wire, you tell the system the high pressure switch works. (The way that sensor works is that it closes or grounds the system over 1.8 bar).
You need to disconnect the blue wire. Start the car. Oil light should be off. Rev to 2500 for a few seconds, light should blink until you shut off the vehicle.
If this occurs, then the system works properly and your high pressure switch is bad.
@@OlisGarage Hey Oli! This last response seems counter to the video itself, but it's likely me misunderstanding. So I understand, if I am experiencing the light blinking after 2000+rpms with switch plugged in run this test: on the high pressure switch, disconnent the wire, start the car (light should be off) and rev to over 2000 for a few seconds...if light comes on with that switch disconnected, its the switch that needs replacing (don't ground at all during this test)?
@@coryclaypole5710 start watching around 4:00. But you’re mostly right.
We need to test the system. So we first tell the system that there is no oil pressure (sensor unplugged and wire dangling). The light should blink over 2k rpm.
Then we tell the system the oil pressure is good by grounding the wire. The light should not come on over 2k rpm.
I do both of these tests to test the two conditions of the oil pressure warning system (pressure is good, pressure is not good). If it passes the two tests, then you know your electronics are good and the switch is the issue
My Mother had a 1982 Volkswagen Jetta N/A diesel until 2003. The oil pressure warning buzzer would turn on all of the time very frequently. She would whack the dash until it went off. It was at the mechanic so many times and NONE of them could repair or disable, not even the dealership techs! BUT WHY could none of them disable the buzzer? By the way her Jetta had the 3 cutouts for gauges in the low section of the dash but they were empty, I remember 20+ years ago she said it was for some performance package or something sporty oriented that she didn't buy at the time of purchase back in 1982.
Hmm, I have no idea how the dealership couldn’t fix that. It isn’t a particularly complicated system.
Interesting about the 3 gauges. I’d never heard that cars were sold with the cutouts but no gauges. Not saying it didn’t happen, I just hadn’t heard that before.
They were great cars though. The diesel was a little slow, but they ran forever.
@@OlisGarage This was during the year 2000 or 2001 at best - nearly twenty years since the manufacture of this German-made car. Also two other independent mechanic shops. One of them claimed to have fixed it and then on the drive home I remember the buzzer went off again. Everyone was always stumped.
But yes the 3 gauges at the bottom weren't there, but the 3 holes were. If I recall there was a black Jetta cover plate (like a delete plate) over them with silver text.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists ooohhh yes I’ve seen some of those cover plates. I guess I never put two and two together that they covered the gauge holes.
Dude great video,
Hey Oli I have a question...my cluster clock works andwhen I turn on the lights the light comes on, but everything else doesn't, like my battery light, temp light oil light and also my temp gauge and fuel gauge don't move....any ideas thanks!!
Fernando Rangel it sounds like your voltage regulator needs replacing. I don’t have a video on that (yet!). I’ll update this comment this afternoon with a link on someone else who replaced the voltage regulator.
@@OlisGarage I did replace it but when I checked voltage there's none..I know ur supposed to have like 10v
Then you probably have an iffy connection with your instrument cluster. Try wiggling the connector and seeing if that helps. Be gentle with it, but wiggle it just a little bit.
The other option is that your blue Mylar on the cluster is broken somewhere
Hey oil's garage. Mine also blinks but when I do the high beams and low beams switch, the blinking light goes away for a while. In so confused. HELP PLEASE.
Have you tested every sensor like I outlined in the video?
@@OlisGarage that'll be next thanks for replying. God bless you.
@@choncoconcos5912 there can be multiple things going on at once. You can have a faulty sensor and also have a faulty ground in the instrument cluster, or even something else. But I always start with the easy things.
@@OlisGarage you got it, it may also be the instrument cluster because is not the original.
@@choncoconcos5912 I definitely think that there is a problem in the cluster. Adding an additional ground might help the cause (just splice into the brown wire going to the cluster and ground that wire)
Great video sir!
Awesome video. Thanks
Glad it was useful!
Hi, I bought a gauge oil pressure and i don't know Where do I install the sending unit ? On the head or near to the oil filter, can you explain please
Are you trying to install a second oil pressure gauge?
Are you trying to install a second oil pressure gauge?
Are you trying to install a second oil pressure gauge?
@@OlisGarage yes i want to install a pressure oil gauge, the problem is where should i install the sending unit because i saw someone's install it on the head and others installing it next to the filter
@@raoufdz7160 both locations are fine. Filter will have a tad higher pressure most likely.
Mine seems to blink when I brake. Any ideas? It's a 92.
Is your car filled with the right amount of oil? That's my first thought. And when it starts blinking, what does the oil pressure gauge do? Does it also show a drop in pressure?
@@OlisGarage It was full. The pressure would drop to around .5 on the gage when I would brake. The ambient temp was high 90s F so that mat have contributed to the old oil + low pressure issue.
It's a new-to-me car and i changed the oil and it seems to have resolved the issue.
I'm excited to have found your channel. I'd love to see how to remove door cards, etc to repair locks, windows, etc if you have a video wish-list. The holy grail would be a top-replacement video, as there are no good references with the level of detail you give to your content. Keep up the great work. I'm learning a lot from you.
Hi , when i drive the car my sensor does nothing but as soon as it starts to get hot the buzzer starts screaming and the light starts to flash , what can it be
Harnu Muller are you sure the wires are all properly connected? Did you follow me test outlined in the video?
@@OlisGarage I have a sensor on the head but my previous engine did not have that sensor so , that sensor does not have a wire so its open
The oil pressure sensor link says it will not fit a 1992 VW Cabriolet. Is it supposed to?
Kelly Sutherland I’m assuming you’re talking about the high pressure sensor. Yes it will fit. Not sure why amazon thinks it won’t.
Update. I used that exact part and it worked. Also, if you read the reviews someone says it worked for their 1992 Jetta. That Jetta has the same engine and oil pressure warning system as your cabriolet.
@@OlisGarage This might be a silly thought but could it be that some parts used in the Canadian models are different than the ones in the U.S. model.....I am assuming you are in the United States. Or are they all the same?
Kelly Sutherland I’m in the states. Amazon said it doesn’t fit a 92.. but that’s on their end. I am rather certain this is the same part even in Canada. I didn’t know Canadian cabriolets had very different parts? I know a main difference was daytime running lights.
@@OlisGarage You are so helpful. Thanks so much!
Kelly Sutherland you’re welcome! Report back if it fixes the issue
Great video. Would've love the close up view
Close up view of which part? It's uploaded in 4k, so you can always just zoom in on the video
Legit !
Thank you!
Hi my mk1 golf sensor was replaced but oil light still come
Sube un vídeo de como conectar los medidores de la consola central ,volts , presión de aceite y bar , te lo agradecería
are yours not working? It's just 3 connectors. one for each gauge.
And POLO.. good jawb. 5stars
Good point!! Thank you!
For anyone here that has the Grey Robert Bentley service manual for Gas,Diesel, and Turbo Diesel 1985-1992, those twits have the location of those 2 switches ass backwards. THE MANUAL IS WRONG! The higher pressure switch (yellow wire) is on the oil filter housing and the low pressure warning switch is on end of the head (blue wire, black stripe). Given that i had paid something like $90 for it back in 1991 when i bought a '91 Jetta TD new, i am rather Pissed. Am having a problem (intermittent also) with my 1986 TD and just discovered this. My '91 had gotten totaled by some a-hole running a Red, would have had the board from it, but another a-hole stole the whole car off a property where i kept it. I did have the engine out of it which i kept before the car was stolen. The location of the switches in the '91 are exactly the same as the '86 with the location of higher and lower ones the same.
K Stewart good call, thanks for sharing. It’s also wrong in the Bentley for the cabriolet.
I think so you incorrect while saying that blue wire is high pressure, but it's actually wire BLUE D01 (Low Oil Pressure Switch) also same with yellow wire is it actually YELLOW D21(High Oil Pressure Switch) ,but it's not a low pressure switch.
Nope, that is incorrect. The Bentley manual is wrong. Watch the video and see how the car reacts when I unplug the respective wires. I triple checked to make sure I was doing it right.
@@OlisGarage Maybe you are right, because I tried to wire up how I just said, but in that way no flashing light. In your way it started to flashing continiously. When started the engine the flash turned off. :))
where I find the color code of my cabriolet, I want to paint my car
profe sinue white sticker in your trunk. Should be on the metal bar closest to the rear seat.
Mach die Videos auch auf deutsche 😉Mit freundlichen Grüßen Chris
Also könnte ich ohne weiteres machen. Aber dann würden nicht so viele Leute es verstehen. Ich habe es mir aber überlegt!
Mine blinks at low rpms
Aldo Torres so you turn on the key, start the car, and it blinks and never stops?
Oli's Repairs after it warms up, it blinks under 2k rps at idle. I already replaced the water temperature sensor and it still blinks. Thanks for the reply! Keep up the great videos bro 🙌🏻👍🏻
Aldo Torres what is blinking? I’m assuming the oil pressure light. what oil are you running? What is the average temperature outside?
My theory: you’re using too thin oil. Cabby-info.com mentions that a ton of people run 15w40 or even 20w50 in the summer.
Appreciate the kind words! :)
Oli's Repairs im talking abt the coolant temperature. Weather here in cali is abt 70’s rn. The oil problem its something else i need to work on. Replaced both sensors and added some lucas oil to thick it a lil. Havent gotten on the road yet cuz im working on the interior 😅
Aldo Torres I’m assuming you have a 1990 or newer?
Oil, so I did everything you said here which fixed all the issues but it now created a new one. With car at temperature in idle showing 1 bar, the oil light blinks, when I step on gas pedal pressure goes up and light stops blinking, but it always blinks at idle. What could it be?
Either you have actually low oil pressure at idle or your low pressure sensor needs replaced. Not sure what you replaced/fixed.
Run 20W50 oil (assuming it’s somewhat warm where you are) and a Mann filter.
Hey my cabriolet is having problems with temperature problems, overheating. And the temperature gauge is not working
Recovering Libertarian I’ve got a video on fixing the temperature gauge. You might have a faulty radiator temp sensor as well which is not allowing your fan to turn on.
@@OlisGarage thanks keep up the great work. your videos are well made and you put alot of work in them.
Recovering Libertarian appreciate the kind words. More are in the works!