Looking super! For future reference the spot putty by Bondo is not very good stuff. It's meant to fill light sanding scratches. If it's in an actual crack or filling a gap it has a very bad habit of shrinking. It takes days to dry if it's in a crack. Then you go to sand or pull pressure on those joints that are filled and you will find it's not dry inside. It skins over and stays wet inside if to thick and by to thick I mean anything over 1/16" thick. In any direction. So the crack might only be 1/32 wide you press it in the crack and it goes in 1/8 to 1/4 down in the crack. Only the surface will dry and the spot putty down the crack will remain wet not dry for weeks. I highly recommend a 2 part filler. One with a hardener and filler. Chemical drying and no shrinking. Just some advice from a long time career body man and fiberglass worker.
Wow. This is pretty solid and gives me a good idea of how this all works. Great craftsmanship and use of 3D printing. Personally, I would use small pegs or screws for alignment of the molding parts but I never tried this before. I hope to try this soon, thanks for the inspiration. I don’t think I’ll do as well as you did though
I use Sketch to make the mold profile. Extrude it to the desired thickness to form a new body. Then use the Combine tool to remove the airplane body from the mold body. I set the mold body as the "Target Body" and the airplane part as the "Tool Body". And I check the "Keep Tools" box.
The corner bulging can be controlled by adjusting the "Jerk" control in your slicer. Short explanation: The bulges are there because the printhead must come to a virtual stop when it gets to a corner and change direction. That causes the filament, which is under pressure, to flow out a bit and make a small blob. Jerk accelerates the nozzle around the corner not giving it time to extrude the extra filament. Adjust amount of jerk until the corners are perfect. This adjustment will not only depend on the type filament (PLA, PETG, etc.) but on the brand as well because all are different.
I experimented with jerk and acceleration in the past but was unsuccessful at removing the corner bulging. Do you have any recommendations on starting point values for jerk? Keep in mind I'm using an Ender 3 Pro and PLA.
@@3DParadigmDesign I run Artillery X1 and X2 machines, which are direct drive unlike your Ender I think. I would think that with Bowden machines the jerk, like the retraction, must be pretty substantial because of the slack in the Bowden tube. Keep in mind all my four machines are direct drive so I have no experience with Bowden printers. You should be able to run a few calibration cubes with escalating speeds to figure it out.
Cool! Seen similar way to made printed moulds in Ramy rc channel. I think 2k acryl-poliurethane primer applyed with spray-gun is better, anyway wish You good luck and sucsess!
Files aren't currently available but I'm considering it. If I were to make something available for purchase would it work for you if I just included the files for the molds and the bits that are 3D printed on the final product (like the exhaust nozzle)?
@@3DParadigmDesign yeah that would work! If not I'm going to try finding a F16/F35/F22 somewhere in a smaller form and see if I can scale it up. I'm sure I should be able to find something on thingaverse or something like that. If they even have it..... But if you sold it I'd definitely save the time and order from you.
@@3DParadigmDesign Thanks alot, how do you plan to construct the landing gears ( i.e. will you add shock absorbers and will you be able to switch between landing gear up and down mode). Also, for your propulsion system will you use a motor and fan or will you store fuel inside a container placed in the fuselage and attach to mini jet engine. Great Work, waiting for your next video 🤞
@@m-lu8vi I'll be using commercially available retracts with shock absorbers and the power unit will be completely electric. Electronic ducted fan. I will also have a future video where I explain all the electronics I'll be using!
Hello sir, I would like to get the stl file for your F16 rc jet, even if I have to pay for it please and also other types of jets like F35 if in future you can also do that too.
Do not use can spray primers, those can spray primers have poor adhesion to the plastic, they are soft, they keep shrinking even after months. Use polyester primer instead. If you do not have spray gun to spray polyester primer you can apply it with foam roller on the surface.
Nice looking molds! The primer step was very satisfying to watch.
Very interesting video about an alternate technique to create molds.
I had in mind to build a mold for a fuselage for F3K -HLG.
Looking super! For future reference the spot putty by Bondo is not very good stuff. It's meant to fill light sanding scratches. If it's in an actual crack or filling a gap it has a very bad habit of shrinking. It takes days to dry if it's in a crack. Then you go to sand or pull pressure on those joints that are filled and you will find it's not dry inside. It skins over and stays wet inside if to thick and by to thick I mean anything over 1/16" thick. In any direction. So the crack might only be 1/32 wide you press it in the crack and it goes in 1/8 to 1/4 down in the crack. Only the surface will dry and the spot putty down the crack will remain wet not dry for weeks. I highly recommend a 2 part filler. One with a hardener and filler. Chemical drying and no shrinking.
Just some advice from a long time career body man and fiberglass worker.
Great advice, thank you!
Wow. This is pretty solid and gives me a good idea of how this all works. Great craftsmanship and use of 3D printing. Personally, I would use small pegs or screws for alignment of the molding parts but I never tried this before. I hope to try this soon, thanks for the inspiration. I don’t think I’ll do as well as you did though
Thank you, It means a lot I was able to inspire you! - Good luck on your project!
Greta Job! Which feature Or option do you use in Fusión 360 to créate the mold?
I use Sketch to make the mold profile. Extrude it to the desired thickness to form a new body. Then use the Combine tool to remove the airplane body from the mold body. I set the mold body as the "Target Body" and the airplane part as the "Tool Body". And I check the "Keep Tools" box.
I approve of this video
The corner bulging can be controlled by adjusting the "Jerk" control in your slicer. Short explanation: The bulges are there because the printhead must come to a virtual stop when it gets to a corner and change direction. That causes the filament, which is under pressure, to flow out a bit and make a small blob. Jerk accelerates the nozzle around the corner not giving it time to extrude the extra filament. Adjust amount of jerk until the corners are perfect. This adjustment will not only depend on the type filament (PLA, PETG, etc.) but on the brand as well because all are different.
I experimented with jerk and acceleration in the past but was unsuccessful at removing the corner bulging. Do you have any recommendations on starting point values for jerk? Keep in mind I'm using an Ender 3 Pro and PLA.
@@3DParadigmDesign I run Artillery X1 and X2 machines, which are direct drive unlike your Ender I think. I would think that with Bowden machines the jerk, like the retraction, must be pretty substantial because of the slack in the Bowden tube. Keep in mind all my four machines are direct drive so I have no experience with Bowden printers. You should be able to run a few calibration cubes with escalating speeds to figure it out.
Thanks!
Cool!
Seen similar way to made printed moulds in Ramy rc channel.
I think 2k acryl-poliurethane primer applyed with spray-gun is better,
anyway wish You good luck and sucsess!
Ramy is an inspiration! I love his videos!
Superb job! Congrats. Do you think these molds can be made with PETG ?
I don't have experience printing with PETG so I can't say for sure but I think it would work!
Where can I get the g code for this entire build. I'd buy it if need be. I just really want to build this! You did an amazing job with this build
Files aren't currently available but I'm considering it. If I were to make something available for purchase would it work for you if I just included the files for the molds and the bits that are 3D printed on the final product (like the exhaust nozzle)?
@@3DParadigmDesign yeah that would work! If not I'm going to try finding a F16/F35/F22 somewhere in a smaller form and see if I can scale it up. I'm sure I should be able to find something on thingaverse or something like that. If they even have it.....
But if you sold it I'd definitely save the time and order from you.
@@3DParadigmDesignI also want the stl files and I would pay for them, it's a shame that so much work ends up on a single plane. Great job!!
this is awesome, were or when can we get these moulds ?
Once I've finished the F-16 I may make the molds available!
@@3DParadigmDesign would be awesome, some of us are NO good with CAD lol.
Marvelous work, can you tell me about the software you are using and share the simulation .
Furthermore which Printer and Resin are you using.
👍
Thanks! I'm using Fusion 360 for the CAD and Cura for the slicing. Using an Ender 3 Pro and Sainsmart PLA filament ✌️
@@3DParadigmDesign
Thanks alot, how do you plan to construct the landing gears ( i.e. will you add shock absorbers and will you be able to switch between landing gear up and down mode).
Also, for your propulsion system will you use a motor and fan or will you store fuel inside a container placed in the fuselage and attach to mini jet engine.
Great Work, waiting for your next video 🤞
@@m-lu8vi I'll be using commercially available retracts with shock absorbers and the power unit will be completely electric. Electronic ducted fan. I will also have a future video where I explain all the electronics I'll be using!
I would definitely wet-sand the parts. Should avoid any overheating from sanding
For fill I use a lite weight bondo in a tube, it has a hardener like bondo, it sand great, and fast. with little srink
What's the name/number of the product you use? I can't find anything called "lightweight Bondo"
Hello sir, I would like to get the stl file for your F16 rc jet, even if I have to pay for it please and also other types of jets like F35 if in future you can also do that too.
Friend, could you make this 3D printing file available so that I can build a model of this. Could you sell the 3d printing file?
Hi Anderson, I am considering making the STL files of the molds available once the project is complete.
Can you share your file ? I would love to 3D printed those parts.
I'm not currently sharing the files. I may make a digital kit in the future though!
is it possible to get the stl file
i like to look your video
Do not use can spray primers, those can spray primers have poor adhesion to the plastic, they are soft, they keep shrinking even after months. Use polyester primer instead. If you do not have spray gun to spray polyester primer you can apply it with foam roller on the surface.
Download please
Wtf is up with that shirt?