HOW TO 3D PRINT your own RC AIRPLANE
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- Опубліковано 16 тра 2024
- How to 3D print your own RC airplane. Let me show you how to set up your printer, assemble the parts and get the Messerschmitt BF-109 in the air!
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Watch the previous parts
Gluing: • 3D printed AIRPLANE - ...
Print settings: • 3D printed AIRPLANE - ...
Get the parts for your own Messerschmitt:
Loctite 435: geni.us/EpDAA1o
CA glue: hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking...
Activator: hobbyking.com/en_us/insta-set...
ECO Motor: hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-d...
ESC: hobbyking.com/en_us/hobby-kin...
LiPo: hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-2...
Servos: hobbyking.com/en_us/hxt900-mi...
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what a beautiful design, the money is in the see-through, wow!
When you hear the German accent the first thing that comes to mind is "precision". Great work.
@Gaius Baltar hotdogs and beer ?
Thank you so much! I spent days trying to figure out why parts were missing after slicing. Made my day man :)
I just finished printing this model. I now see how the wing is held on! Thanks.
hi there
Could you please share models with me
@@user-ul1sk2qx2n boi, buy it urself
Nicely presented,thank you for a most informative video.
Beautiful work , and GORGEOUS countryside ! Very NICELY _done_ !
as a rcplane builder and a 3d printer this is amazing
"After a couple of thousands replacements..." That's funny.
A fellow flyer thats good to know, way to go and any landing that allows you to fly again is a good landing. I have printed two of there planes the P47 Thunderbolt and the Biplane gave the Biplane to a friend and hung the thunderbolt from the ceiling, will fly it later on a calm day which happens a least once every ten years in North Dakota, aleast it seems that long. Thanks for all your videos you do a really good job and everyone can learn alot by watching them.
Great choice on choosing transparent PLA.. The plane looks awesome!
.. even if it didn't fly well still certainly a beautiful scale model to be displayed.
brilliant video, model, craft, 3d printing and content.. keep it up with the great work! best!
my first thought was awful choice lol it would blend right into the sky! but thats maybe because im from new york where the sky is permanently grey...
Awesome video mate, thanks to this I was finally able to print thin wall RC plane components using Cura with my Flashforge Adventurer 4. With some setting tweaks I’m confident I’ll be able to get some good quality flyable parts. The mesh fix deactivation trick worked a treat for the slicer recognising the internal structure. Thanks man!
May i get the files?
I printed the 3D Lab Prints Zivko Edge... haven't flown it yet, but it makes for a nice conversation starter at the lab :)
Wow, nice project
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
nice and smooth build. cheers...
12:50 you could've superglued toothpicks/fibers as rebar to make those joints stronger...
Excellent effort and so interesting to see through the model. Subscribed.
WUNDERBAR
Only legit with american accent xD
@Wyatt Watling in German.
Erik Frank in english
@@MultiSubjector in French.
Hahaha...
Thank you for your videos, you deserve a lot!!
Hello young man, I wanted to say thank you for the G_code info on the slicer setting for Cura. It has made a huge difference. No more pulling my hair out trying to configure the settings to print out the Spitfire airplane. I was really starting to have my doubts and wondered if my cr10s could print this plane. Now the prints are amazing.
I have done the spitfire, the PT -17, the ebge, and the lager spitfire. Have had a lot of fun with them.
GG I just purchased a CR-10 S4 and I am looking forward to printing my first 3D labprint aircraft just have to decide which I want to choose.
I like this project! it was a realy interesting idea that it would be possible to show parts of the actual framework based on the original. I also like the camera experiment.
Thanks for sharing. I had a few missing tweaks to Cura and that helped me over the line. I have already printed the EasyMaxx and now want to improve the qality of the prints for the P51D project as this looks similar to your Messerschmitt. The quality of your choice of PLA cannot be overstated as this shines through; as so with the feed and flow rates and making sure your bowden tube is optimally placed to avoid snagging - especially as the HE raises higher up the Z axis, as is the case on my new AnyCubic i3 MegaS. I use a rubber band to help guide the bowden tube away from the Z axis screw - ANyCubic tiewrap the bowden to the HE cables which is not optimal. Getting perfect thin-wall prints is very hard, but with time and effort it can be acheived on any printer without the need to buy Simplyfy 3D and a Prusa which seems to be 3DLabs choice. Where money is no obect go for a Prusa, but many printers like the Ender 3 Pro and the AnyCubic i3 Mega S are well up to the task.
Looking for a good deal on a new 3D printer and want to support the channel? Take a look at the affiliate links below and in the description:
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Can you put printing files if you can?
Schönes Video - wie immer.
Nice video as always.
You should use 0.24mm instead of 0.25mm on the CR-10 since the Z axis step size is 0.04mm. Keep it divisible.
Nice 109 model. It looks really good!
great build i love it keep up the great work
Top! Congratulations!!!
Great work..
I'm printing the P-51D Mustang; so far I have most of the wing printed and it is going well despite being a very long print project lol. Excited to get it all together and fly it!
Nicely done. That plane rocked!!
Inspiring. Thank you for the motivation. Been designing rc parkjets based on depron sheets. I might probably design parkjets for 3d printers shortly 😊
Very cool!
Super glue and Bicarbonate of soda also works really well to bond things together. VERY hard and strong bond. Cornstarch as well as baby powder also work well. But they have different consistencies. Cornstarch is super quick, like basically instant. Good for quick in the field fixes. Baby powder is a quite a bit slower setting than bicarbonate of soda with super glue, and can be used more like a putty but isn't as strong as Bicarbonate of soda.
Quantities for mixing are very dependent. You can tell when Bicarb is saturated with super glue. Cornstarch is more like a sprinkling over the super glue. For baby powder there is the biggest difference. You can mix in as little or as much as you like depending on the consistency you want.
Good to know, thanks!
Was gonna say the same thing with the bakig soda, just remember it gets HOT if you bridge any bigger gaps. I woulld even recommend using paper molds to keep the baking soda in place, and then drip superglue onto it so you dont have to sand so much. Youd need thinner superglue for that tho, like blue spot (:
Bartosz Jakubowski besides the heat, baking soda makes fumes. But it is very strong
Bartosz Jakubowski it gets hot? How hot are we talking here for you. I would say more like a bit warm on bigger chucks. Granted the biggest filling I have done is about the width of my pinky finger. I have noticed it gets a bit warmer the more there is, but not by much. Maybe 28-35 degrees C maximum. Certainly not hot enough to melt or soften something like PLA.
I wonder if it is related to the type of super glue. Some are meant to have different set times and viscosity. so whatever they add to change that factor could be what causes more or less heat.
And yes thinner the glue the better for dispersion in the bicarb. Gel type super glue will work but only if you mix it in before you apply it. Which is really not great.
Oh and Bartosz. Maybe try a thin sheet of silicon instead of paper for the molding. I used to use paper. Which is fine when you are at a workshop or at home where you have paper. But when you have to go out or if it is part of your emergency repair kit, keeping paper around is a pain. A little sheet of silicon is great and infinity reusable. Plus the added benefit of no super glue soaking into the paper (which is added waste glue) and no accidental sticking of fingers to paper if you are holding it there. No paper left behind either when you use silicon.
Martin B "hot" is subjective. I don't know that it would be hot enough to burn skin but it does get warm.
The gases when mixed with baking soda is like tear gas.
great video. I am going to print one my owe. is the creatility ender 3 suitable for the task? any recommendation on the printer?
Bought my first 3D printer (Ender 3 Pro) 3 weeks ago and another one week later. Main purpose - printing planes :D
Already printed 3 planes - Eclipson Model V in LW-PLA, PlanePrint Foka in PLA and PlanePrint Zlin Savage Bobber in PLA
Very well done, thank you!
I have no experience with any RC vehicles, but I'm determined to build a 3d printed flying wing. This look like so much fun!
Nice
Looks great!
Good idea of taking a BF109 to make the model
Gonna end in tears. Yeah, that'd most likely be me. lol. Great series! Thumbs up!
Ich liebe dieses Flugzeug :) Mein Uropa war damals der Jüngste Pilot der dieses (damals hochmoderne) Flugzeug fliegen durfte :) Ein sehr cooles Video
Jedes mal aufs neue bin ich von deinem absolut genialem Englisch begeistert!
Vielen Dank!
I have a Prusa MK3S on order today and I hope some day to be able to print a plane like this. I have a lot to learn first, but I have been flying for a long time. Incredible!
Eclipson as well as 3DLabPrint provide very easy to follow instructions or even pre-sliced GCode to make printing planes really easy! Definitely give it a try.
@@CNCKitchen I will check them out. My printer won't be here for a week or so. I don't even know enough to understand slicer and how it works. But as soon as I get some of the basics down printing a plane is on the top of my list. I am going to start with @localfiend Northern Pike as he has released it at no charge and has a good build thread on the Flite Test forums but I certainly will be looking at other designs and have no problem compensating people for their work. I'm working on a Mooney 21 and trying to stumble my way through learning Fusion360 myself. So much to absorb. I love your channel and have been watching videos left and right. You come highly recommended from many different sources.
remember never fly directly after lunch, that moves the CG to the belly
You look like Matt Stone. BTW amazing project I'm just waiting my printer to arrive to try. Subscribed
That is beautiful!
I had trouble with the wings shrinking and pulling off the bed too. My bed was still at the right temperature, although the atmosphere was quite cold, and I believe this may have been the cause for the pulling.
Very cool. Love it!
Doing the Cessna 152 on a stock (apart from a few minor tweaks) Ender 3. Most of it is Hatchbox PLA White, and the tires are done in Sain Smart TPU Black. Surprisingly, printing TPU on a stock Ender 3 was relatively painless compared to Fuselage section 3
yeah, it prints firmer tpu real well
Impressive!
Thank you for the great guide, appreciate it! Which are the control surfaces? Thanks for your help!
Good job! Thank you!
Nice work !
I'm just printing the Cessna 152 from them right now. :) I had some really cool RC Planes back in my home region but since I started studying in north germany, I wasn't able to fly at all. But I will get back to this hobby and I already designed my own printable RC Plane, that well... lets say ended up being very heavy and I crashed while I was launching it because it wasn't able to achieve the lift that would be neccesarry. Wish me luck with the professionally designed one from 3DLabPrint :)
I currently tweaking the settings, as the supplied gcode is not good for my modified Anet A8 with a Bowden E3D v6, Mistral cooling duct and the 3 month old, room stored Janbex PLA on an glass bed without any spray or glue on it.
(Lots of stringing, some Wrapping on the wing tip)
Thank you for this video series and the suggested settings :) Instant Sub after that :D
Thanks man finally got a good print with your settings. I changes the nozzle to 0,5 mm to get the perfect weight and stifness. 👍👍👍😎
I love the clear 3D print, but wonder if it blends into the sky too much. This could make it challenging to know the plane's orientation when it's far away. Great video, thanks!
Isn't there strength levels of the materials so you can avoid that if you wanted too?
Got the PT17, and Cessna 152 completed and flying. Now working on the 64 inch edge 540
What are the approximate print times in total for a full aircraft?
awesome project. I'm planning to surprise my step dad with a model of his favourite plane (mustang P51) and i'll likely use this model to understand the mechanics
2:44 - 2:53 that is so satisfying
this is amazing :O
This was great!
i liked your video but it is so advanced for a newbie of 3d printing
I used these settings on the Ender 3 pro. Worked great, But i have slight warping on the print base. Maybe i need to sand it more :P
Hello Stefan I like the show however, I have a question to the use of Cura for my Allcct printer, what would be the adjustments I had to make to get it working properly, at the moment it moves to a location and there it runs in circles for god knows how long. Thanks for any help.
Great work! My printer is 300x300x400, I wonder if PLA is strong and light enough to work if I scaled this up to 200%? It would probably take a month to print though, lol.
Great Job!
What is the difference between the eco performance and the high performance set ups for the 3D lab print planes and which would you recommend and why?
I may have missed it, but which filament did you use? Great work!!
nice project
Intro be like: Brace for impact !!! 😊
When you landed it in the intro I legit thought that it would shatter on impact.
The biggest problem with PLA is the lower melting point in combination with thin walled prints. If you leave the 3D printed plane in your car on a hot, sunny day there is a good chance that serious warping will occur, which cannot be fixed. With darker colored parts, the problem will be even worse due to passive solar heating, even while flying and especially near the power plant (motor, battery, esc) as additional heat is generated there during operation. This is why I use either ABS or PETG filament for my RC airplane parts. They will not warp as easily. I am going to try PLA+ with my next project to see how well that works.
WUNDERBAR!
WONDERLIK!
WONDERFUL!
What is the difference between the eco performance and the high performance set ups for the 3D lab print planes and which would you recommend and why?
Well done
Hello @CNC Kitchen
thank you for this nice video. I bought this plane and have printed the parts, currently assembling. They all fit together very nicely without any adjustments coming from my Prusa. There is only a small gap on both wing halves between the first and second element, which I filled with putty.
I am asking myself one thing however and want to know your opinion. The elements are all glued together just on the edges, there is no connecting elements to hold them in place other than the glue. This seems to me like it could very easily shear off, especially under stress in some maneuvers.
The obvious pro of this is that the parts break apart cleanly and can easily be glued back together. However I'm asking myself if the overall integrity is too low without elements gripping into each other (Male/Female approach) to work against shear forces (Abscherung).
What is your opinion on this?
this is late, but you could consider plastic welding the pieces together with a solder iron and plastic or 3d pen.
My dad and i just bought your P45 thunderbolt model and are excited to build and fly it. I was also wondering if its possible to make an A-10 Warthog model? I just really like the A-10 design and really want to add it to my collection of RC planes.
Im currently building a focke-wolf from 3d print labs and also their submariner spitfire also there such awsome designs and i also went with transparent pla 😎
Superglue and Baking Soda also works great for filling gaps, if youn dont have glass beeds or really fine sand.
Hi I love this video as I have been building and flying model airplanes for about 30 years and recently got into 3d printing to make parts for my planes I never really thought about printing an entire plane, I just wanted to ask about the build surface you used it looks like a plane glass bed ?.this would make sense as it would produce a reasonably flat surface for gluing the parts together.
In guitar work, it is common to use super glue mixed with baking soda.
It is said that it dries to a very high hardness.
Great Video. Thx, pls wich nozzle diameter do u use? Thx, axel
Thank you very much for this good video !
I just buy the STL for the SPITFIRE MK XVI on 3DLabPrint, and I use Cura 4.3 and my Ender3 printer.
I copied yours Cura settings and it's perefct for the wings, thank you so much !
But for the ailerons (yours blue parts) is not good, do you have other settings for the ailerons and fuselage ?
Thank you, I will do a video on my UA-cam channel when my plane is finished.
The settings need to be slightly changed. Just check the manual.
Thank you for your video, now I want to test too 😃
I’m a real novice in 3D print and RC plane, but I want to test it, I search the best plane model (on 3dLabPrint) to start (for novice like me), easy to print, and to use.
If possible I prefer a little plane (quickly to print and easy to stock it).
Which model plane you recommend for me ?
My 3D print is an Ender3, and I use Cura 4.2.1
Eclipson 3d printed planes are easier to fly and smaller so faster to print when you need new parts
that's a nice bit of Baltic birch you have there
Thanks for your Video, do you think this is possible to slice/print in Bambu Lab P1P?
Hab mir gerade einen Drucker mit anständigem Build-Volume bestellt (der 10 Jahre alte Reprap kann nur 150mm Z), einen mit 330x330x400mm.
Extra zum Flieger-Drucken, der erste wird ein Eclipson EBW-160. Bin mal gespannt!
Danke für das informative Video!
Muito bom o avião parabéns
Very good . Felicitations.
Cool project!!
I was under the impression that PLA was brittle and would break easily, is that not the case? Is “Premium PLA” more elastic?
It's brittle but stronger than you think. I wouldn't consider it "easily breakable". I just worry about heat resistance around hot batteries, motors, and ESC.
Just a thought, would it be possible to include some vibration isolating mounts for the motor? At the moment the stiffness of the airframe is amplifying the prop sound and it would seem that’s something which, when eliminated, could make for a more pleasant flying experience experience.
Hallo, Great job...how do you print shell...it is too thin and the perimeters cannot be added in the slicer. I have an original project from 3dlab. Many Thanks 😊
Really great, what did you buy for everythink? An could you make some Flight Videos?
Ohh! Finally I see you smile during the presentation! (guth tag evrybody .... CNC Kitchen) usually you're too serious :-))
Good job! really a big job!
Thanks for sharing your printing experiences.
What material is what you put together with CA glue in the gaps?
what do you think of a version with a wingspan of 2 meters and already that we are landing gear retractable?
Maybe it will be less nervous on the fly, but considering that the real plane was born to fight even the model will be very agile and nervous.
Congratulations again Stefan!
I used glass beads (like for sand blasting) as a filler.
I had never seen this product, do you have a link?
Thanks for the reply
you can also use bicarb of soda with super glue
ua-cam.com/video/slCMkvEfK_U/v-deo.html
you may try to sew or rivet the parts together. nice project!
You may need to slow the printing down to stop wing warp materials always move when heated
my fav aitplane
Interesting design work but regarding the parts weight indicated in the video, that R/c Me-109 seems to be VERY heavy for her size...
The empty and unpainted plane is already as heavy as a ready to fly balsa one and at least 100g heavier than a ready to take off and fully painted Me-109 built from foam.
Is it possible to print the wing in one piece on a CR-10 for example?
Nice!!
Thanks, do you have a video on different filaments it's properties and strength?
Yes