A fellow flyer thats good to know, way to go and any landing that allows you to fly again is a good landing. I have printed two of there planes the P47 Thunderbolt and the Biplane gave the Biplane to a friend and hung the thunderbolt from the ceiling, will fly it later on a calm day which happens a least once every ten years in North Dakota, aleast it seems that long. Thanks for all your videos you do a really good job and everyone can learn alot by watching them.
Awesome video mate, thanks to this I was finally able to print thin wall RC plane components using Cura with my Flashforge Adventurer 4. With some setting tweaks I’m confident I’ll be able to get some good quality flyable parts. The mesh fix deactivation trick worked a treat for the slicer recognising the internal structure. Thanks man!
Super glue and Bicarbonate of soda also works really well to bond things together. VERY hard and strong bond. Cornstarch as well as baby powder also work well. But they have different consistencies. Cornstarch is super quick, like basically instant. Good for quick in the field fixes. Baby powder is a quite a bit slower setting than bicarbonate of soda with super glue, and can be used more like a putty but isn't as strong as Bicarbonate of soda. Quantities for mixing are very dependent. You can tell when Bicarb is saturated with super glue. Cornstarch is more like a sprinkling over the super glue. For baby powder there is the biggest difference. You can mix in as little or as much as you like depending on the consistency you want.
Was gonna say the same thing with the bakig soda, just remember it gets HOT if you bridge any bigger gaps. I woulld even recommend using paper molds to keep the baking soda in place, and then drip superglue onto it so you dont have to sand so much. Youd need thinner superglue for that tho, like blue spot (:
Bartosz Jakubowski it gets hot? How hot are we talking here for you. I would say more like a bit warm on bigger chucks. Granted the biggest filling I have done is about the width of my pinky finger. I have noticed it gets a bit warmer the more there is, but not by much. Maybe 28-35 degrees C maximum. Certainly not hot enough to melt or soften something like PLA. I wonder if it is related to the type of super glue. Some are meant to have different set times and viscosity. so whatever they add to change that factor could be what causes more or less heat. And yes thinner the glue the better for dispersion in the bicarb. Gel type super glue will work but only if you mix it in before you apply it. Which is really not great. Oh and Bartosz. Maybe try a thin sheet of silicon instead of paper for the molding. I used to use paper. Which is fine when you are at a workshop or at home where you have paper. But when you have to go out or if it is part of your emergency repair kit, keeping paper around is a pain. A little sheet of silicon is great and infinity reusable. Plus the added benefit of no super glue soaking into the paper (which is added waste glue) and no accidental sticking of fingers to paper if you are holding it there. No paper left behind either when you use silicon.
Martin B "hot" is subjective. I don't know that it would be hot enough to burn skin but it does get warm. The gases when mixed with baking soda is like tear gas.
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Hello young man, I wanted to say thank you for the G_code info on the slicer setting for Cura. It has made a huge difference. No more pulling my hair out trying to configure the settings to print out the Spitfire airplane. I was really starting to have my doubts and wondered if my cr10s could print this plane. Now the prints are amazing.
Just a thought, would it be possible to include some vibration isolating mounts for the motor? At the moment the stiffness of the airframe is amplifying the prop sound and it would seem that’s something which, when eliminated, could make for a more pleasant flying experience experience.
Great choice on choosing transparent PLA.. The plane looks awesome! .. even if it didn't fly well still certainly a beautiful scale model to be displayed. brilliant video, model, craft, 3d printing and content.. keep it up with the great work! best!
Bought my first 3D printer (Ender 3 Pro) 3 weeks ago and another one week later. Main purpose - printing planes :D Already printed 3 planes - Eclipson Model V in LW-PLA, PlanePrint Foka in PLA and PlanePrint Zlin Savage Bobber in PLA
I'm printing the P-51D Mustang; so far I have most of the wing printed and it is going well despite being a very long print project lol. Excited to get it all together and fly it!
Doing the Cessna 152 on a stock (apart from a few minor tweaks) Ender 3. Most of it is Hatchbox PLA White, and the tires are done in Sain Smart TPU Black. Surprisingly, printing TPU on a stock Ender 3 was relatively painless compared to Fuselage section 3
I have a Prusa MK3S on order today and I hope some day to be able to print a plane like this. I have a lot to learn first, but I have been flying for a long time. Incredible!
Eclipson as well as 3DLabPrint provide very easy to follow instructions or even pre-sliced GCode to make printing planes really easy! Definitely give it a try.
@@CNCKitchen I will check them out. My printer won't be here for a week or so. I don't even know enough to understand slicer and how it works. But as soon as I get some of the basics down printing a plane is on the top of my list. I am going to start with @localfiend Northern Pike as he has released it at no charge and has a good build thread on the Flite Test forums but I certainly will be looking at other designs and have no problem compensating people for their work. I'm working on a Mooney 21 and trying to stumble my way through learning Fusion360 myself. So much to absorb. I love your channel and have been watching videos left and right. You come highly recommended from many different sources.
I love the clear 3D print, but wonder if it blends into the sky too much. This could make it challenging to know the plane's orientation when it's far away. Great video, thanks!
Hab mir gerade einen Drucker mit anständigem Build-Volume bestellt (der 10 Jahre alte Reprap kann nur 150mm Z), einen mit 330x330x400mm. Extra zum Flieger-Drucken, der erste wird ein Eclipson EBW-160. Bin mal gespannt! Danke für das informative Video!
awesome project. I'm planning to surprise my step dad with a model of his favourite plane (mustang P51) and i'll likely use this model to understand the mechanics
I'm just printing the Cessna 152 from them right now. :) I had some really cool RC Planes back in my home region but since I started studying in north germany, I wasn't able to fly at all. But I will get back to this hobby and I already designed my own printable RC Plane, that well... lets say ended up being very heavy and I crashed while I was launching it because it wasn't able to achieve the lift that would be neccesarry. Wish me luck with the professionally designed one from 3DLabPrint :) I currently tweaking the settings, as the supplied gcode is not good for my modified Anet A8 with a Bowden E3D v6, Mistral cooling duct and the 3 month old, room stored Janbex PLA on an glass bed without any spray or glue on it. (Lots of stringing, some Wrapping on the wing tip) Thank you for this video series and the suggested settings :) Instant Sub after that :D
The biggest problem with PLA is the lower melting point in combination with thin walled prints. If you leave the 3D printed plane in your car on a hot, sunny day there is a good chance that serious warping will occur, which cannot be fixed. With darker colored parts, the problem will be even worse due to passive solar heating, even while flying and especially near the power plant (motor, battery, esc) as additional heat is generated there during operation. This is why I use either ABS or PETG filament for my RC airplane parts. They will not warp as easily. I am going to try PLA+ with my next project to see how well that works.
Wow ! Im just about to click the button on an Enders 3 Pro and this has inspired me to build whole planes instead of winglet,s, motormount,s and pilots ..........making a BF 109........ Naaa not so much , but i can see a British make SPITFIRE, in my 3d Printed Hanger ;0)
I had trouble with the wings shrinking and pulling off the bed too. My bed was still at the right temperature, although the atmosphere was quite cold, and I believe this may have been the cause for the pulling.
@Parker Fox it looks like the biggest difference is the performance package uses a 14.8V battery but the eco performance uses 11.1V. The performance package is going to be able to spin a bigger prop faster at the top end. I think it's overkill for this model. This isn't a speed plane. I've already got the exact motor specified for the performance package, so I'll use it. My batteries (if they're still alive to charge) are the 3S 11.1V, & I've already got a 56A speed controller, so I'll use that. I plan on using an 11 X 5.5 or 11X4 prop so it should pull through the air a little slower. I may need to change that up though, I'll just have to see.
Overall, I think either package should work well, but all the recommendations in the guide are out of stock (outdated, so no longer for sale). Looks like you'll just have to find something roughly comparable as far as size, weight, & power output, & go with that.
@Parker Fox I've only looked at the Stearman P-17, so I'm basing everything on that. Looking at the differences between the 2 packages there, I'd say you'll probably be ok with either. The eco package seems more than adequate, & the performance package doesn't look like a huge step up from that. I haven't flown for several years, so I've been trying to practice up with my old Realflight 6 simulator. Before I fly this P-17 Stearman, I plan on getting an old foam Tigermoth running again, so I can crash THAT instead, until I get a little more steady on my landings!
Errr ? So as far as the structure is concerned the steel control surface push-rods are the heaviest items. Could they not be replaced by PLA ? Could the Fuselage sections ends be formed with a rebated edge so as to form a lap joint between sections ? OK, that sort of design might detract from the outward appearance of a transparent model, but the increase in strength would be well worth-it in coloured/painted models.
Can you 3d print a Freewing F-22 Raptor 90mm EDF JET ??? What sort of materiel would you use so it will be light and hard like foam and not brittle ???
Hi I love this video as I have been building and flying model airplanes for about 30 years and recently got into 3d printing to make parts for my planes I never really thought about printing an entire plane, I just wanted to ask about the build surface you used it looks like a plane glass bed ?.this would make sense as it would produce a reasonably flat surface for gluing the parts together.
Thanks for sharing. I had a few missing tweaks to Cura and that helped me over the line. I have already printed the EasyMaxx and now want to improve the qality of the prints for the P51D project as this looks similar to your Messerschmitt. The quality of your choice of PLA cannot be overstated as this shines through; as so with the feed and flow rates and making sure your bowden tube is optimally placed to avoid snagging - especially as the HE raises higher up the Z axis, as is the case on my new AnyCubic i3 MegaS. I use a rubber band to help guide the bowden tube away from the Z axis screw - ANyCubic tiewrap the bowden to the HE cables which is not optimal. Getting perfect thin-wall prints is very hard, but with time and effort it can be acheived on any printer without the need to buy Simplyfy 3D and a Prusa which seems to be 3DLabs choice. Where money is no obect go for a Prusa, but many printers like the Ender 3 Pro and the AnyCubic i3 Mega S are well up to the task.
I received a CTC DIY printer for Christmas, and I notice at 7:00 that you have a glass plate on the bed. What kind of glass is it. My printer did not have one and the first item that I printed marked the bed. Thanks for advice. I am a total newbie at this.
Im currently building a focke-wolf from 3d print labs and also their submariner spitfire also there such awsome designs and i also went with transparent pla 😎
I like this project! it was a realy interesting idea that it would be possible to show parts of the actual framework based on the original. I also like the camera experiment.
Hoping for a response - is there a wat to text edit the g code so that the print is centered on the build plate? (When I load the g code directly, it prints in the corner where the plate seems to be unevenly heated, and warping occurs)
Great work! My printer is 300x300x400, I wonder if PLA is strong and light enough to work if I scaled this up to 200%? It would probably take a month to print though, lol.
I think you meant to say "first flight". The "final flight" would be where it crashes and gets totally destroyed... ^_^ Incidentally, instead of the glass micro-balloons, try baking soda - it behaves as an accelerator. Or mix a few percent baking soda with the micro-balloons (lighter). We used to use baking soda in a squeeze bottle for ultra-quick field repairs during control-line combat/F2D matches - this was back when we flew all-wood models and before foam wings took over. Just hold the broken pieces together, puff some baking soda into the joint, and squirt thin CA on it. If necessary add more baking soda. The glue would set off immediately. For pushrods - try aluminum brazing wire (the straight rods, not the stuff on a spool). MUCH easier to bend and lighter to boot - the 1.5mm should be strong enough but you can also get 2mm and 3mm. As with all pushrods, long ones need to be braced.
warum kein 2 - komponenten kleber ?... der so schön dick is, aus dem baumarkt ... gehts um die transparens ? dass das so halbwegs im gleichen farbton bleibt ?
Super Videos von dir, danke dafür. Frage, wieso machst du nicht mal einen versuch mit LW-PLA der vergleich Colorfabb und eSun währe auch toll. Diese Filamente sind ja für RC Flugzeuge ideal!? Freue mich schon auf das Video :-)
Hello @CNC Kitchen thank you for this nice video. I bought this plane and have printed the parts, currently assembling. They all fit together very nicely without any adjustments coming from my Prusa. There is only a small gap on both wing halves between the first and second element, which I filled with putty. I am asking myself one thing however and want to know your opinion. The elements are all glued together just on the edges, there is no connecting elements to hold them in place other than the glue. This seems to me like it could very easily shear off, especially under stress in some maneuvers. The obvious pro of this is that the parts break apart cleanly and can easily be glued back together. However I'm asking myself if the overall integrity is too low without elements gripping into each other (Male/Female approach) to work against shear forces (Abscherung). What is your opinion on this?
My dad and i just bought your P45 thunderbolt model and are excited to build and fly it. I was also wondering if its possible to make an A-10 Warthog model? I just really like the A-10 design and really want to add it to my collection of RC planes.
im having a hard time getting LWPla to print reliably. getting blisters on surface, poor wall adhesion, stringing, and pitting. ive been over every single setting in cura. on the same printer i get bulletproof reliability with Pla. flsun v400 w/ tungsten carbide .4mm nozzle. i maintain the printer exceptionally. sunlu PLA for days with next to zero errors. using overture LW-Pla. using eclipson recommended settings did not provide a sufficient part. is there a difference between LWPLA and "prefoamed" LWPLA? there isnt a noticeable increase in volume of the filament between printing at 190 vs 250. can someone guide me to more information on eclipson planes? i have 4 of their STL and want to make it work.
Hi, I'm also having the same problem PLUS a lot of warpping on all the print surface with my prusa mk4 and PolyAir 1.0 from 3dLabPrint, I tryied the settings from 3dlabprint (they havethe documentation for prusa slicer version 2.4, and at the moment i have the 2.7.4). Also tryied the settings advised from prusa and prusa foruns but at no avail. I'm going to try a simple print without any settings (default settings from the slicer, maybe it will print ok but will be a little heavier, but I don't care at the moment :D ) from prusa and 3dlabprint only to see what happen, because at the moment I'm completly lost :(. Can any one help?
Hello Stefan. I printed a wing sample in black PLA, I had a problem after placing the part near the window, and summer sun in Spain made it get soooo hot that it bended and ruined the part. How can you print a plane in pla that will fly and will have direct sun light?? it is because transparent PLA resists sun light?? I am so interested in making a 3d printed plane for my RC collection, but was wondering if PETG is not a better material.
When you hear the German accent the first thing that comes to mind is "precision". Great work.
@Gaius Baltar hotdogs and beer ?
I just finished printing this model. I now see how the wing is held on! Thanks.
hi there
Could you please share models with me
@@ДимкаПузо boi, buy it urself
A fellow flyer thats good to know, way to go and any landing that allows you to fly again is a good landing. I have printed two of there planes the P47 Thunderbolt and the Biplane gave the Biplane to a friend and hung the thunderbolt from the ceiling, will fly it later on a calm day which happens a least once every ten years in North Dakota, aleast it seems that long. Thanks for all your videos you do a really good job and everyone can learn alot by watching them.
as a rcplane builder and a 3d printer this is amazing
Awesome video mate, thanks to this I was finally able to print thin wall RC plane components using Cura with my Flashforge Adventurer 4. With some setting tweaks I’m confident I’ll be able to get some good quality flyable parts. The mesh fix deactivation trick worked a treat for the slicer recognising the internal structure. Thanks man!
May i get the files?
what a beautiful design, the money is in the see-through, wow!
Beautiful work , and GORGEOUS countryside ! Very NICELY _done_ !
WUNDERBAR
Only legit with american accent xD
@Wyatt Watling in German.
Erik Frank in english
@@MultiSubjector in French.
Hahaha...
Super glue and Bicarbonate of soda also works really well to bond things together. VERY hard and strong bond. Cornstarch as well as baby powder also work well. But they have different consistencies. Cornstarch is super quick, like basically instant. Good for quick in the field fixes. Baby powder is a quite a bit slower setting than bicarbonate of soda with super glue, and can be used more like a putty but isn't as strong as Bicarbonate of soda.
Quantities for mixing are very dependent. You can tell when Bicarb is saturated with super glue. Cornstarch is more like a sprinkling over the super glue. For baby powder there is the biggest difference. You can mix in as little or as much as you like depending on the consistency you want.
Good to know, thanks!
Was gonna say the same thing with the bakig soda, just remember it gets HOT if you bridge any bigger gaps. I woulld even recommend using paper molds to keep the baking soda in place, and then drip superglue onto it so you dont have to sand so much. Youd need thinner superglue for that tho, like blue spot (:
Bartosz Jakubowski besides the heat, baking soda makes fumes. But it is very strong
Bartosz Jakubowski it gets hot? How hot are we talking here for you. I would say more like a bit warm on bigger chucks. Granted the biggest filling I have done is about the width of my pinky finger. I have noticed it gets a bit warmer the more there is, but not by much. Maybe 28-35 degrees C maximum. Certainly not hot enough to melt or soften something like PLA.
I wonder if it is related to the type of super glue. Some are meant to have different set times and viscosity. so whatever they add to change that factor could be what causes more or less heat.
And yes thinner the glue the better for dispersion in the bicarb. Gel type super glue will work but only if you mix it in before you apply it. Which is really not great.
Oh and Bartosz. Maybe try a thin sheet of silicon instead of paper for the molding. I used to use paper. Which is fine when you are at a workshop or at home where you have paper. But when you have to go out or if it is part of your emergency repair kit, keeping paper around is a pain. A little sheet of silicon is great and infinity reusable. Plus the added benefit of no super glue soaking into the paper (which is added waste glue) and no accidental sticking of fingers to paper if you are holding it there. No paper left behind either when you use silicon.
Martin B "hot" is subjective. I don't know that it would be hot enough to burn skin but it does get warm.
The gases when mixed with baking soda is like tear gas.
nice and smooth build. cheers...
12:50 you could've superglued toothpicks/fibers as rebar to make those joints stronger...
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Can you put printing files if you can?
Jedes mal aufs neue bin ich von deinem absolut genialem Englisch begeistert!
Vielen Dank!
"After a couple of thousands replacements..." That's funny.
You should use 0.24mm instead of 0.25mm on the CR-10 since the Z axis step size is 0.04mm. Keep it divisible.
Thank you so much! I spent days trying to figure out why parts were missing after slicing. Made my day man :)
Hello young man, I wanted to say thank you for the G_code info on the slicer setting for Cura. It has made a huge difference. No more pulling my hair out trying to configure the settings to print out the Spitfire airplane. I was really starting to have my doubts and wondered if my cr10s could print this plane. Now the prints are amazing.
Just a thought, would it be possible to include some vibration isolating mounts for the motor? At the moment the stiffness of the airframe is amplifying the prop sound and it would seem that’s something which, when eliminated, could make for a more pleasant flying experience experience.
I have no experience with any RC vehicles, but I'm determined to build a 3d printed flying wing. This look like so much fun!
Great choice on choosing transparent PLA.. The plane looks awesome!
.. even if it didn't fly well still certainly a beautiful scale model to be displayed.
brilliant video, model, craft, 3d printing and content.. keep it up with the great work! best!
my first thought was awful choice lol it would blend right into the sky! but thats maybe because im from new york where the sky is permanently grey...
It appeared to fly fine, But when you put a heavy camera on the very tip of one wing, it's gonna crash
Bought my first 3D printer (Ender 3 Pro) 3 weeks ago and another one week later. Main purpose - printing planes :D
Already printed 3 planes - Eclipson Model V in LW-PLA, PlanePrint Foka in PLA and PlanePrint Zlin Savage Bobber in PLA
remember never fly directly after lunch, that moves the CG to the belly
I have done the spitfire, the PT -17, the ebge, and the lager spitfire. Have had a lot of fun with them.
I'm printing the P-51D Mustang; so far I have most of the wing printed and it is going well despite being a very long print project lol. Excited to get it all together and fly it!
Doing the Cessna 152 on a stock (apart from a few minor tweaks) Ender 3. Most of it is Hatchbox PLA White, and the tires are done in Sain Smart TPU Black. Surprisingly, printing TPU on a stock Ender 3 was relatively painless compared to Fuselage section 3
yeah, it prints firmer tpu real well
I printed the 3D Lab Prints Zivko Edge... haven't flown it yet, but it makes for a nice conversation starter at the lab :)
I have a Prusa MK3S on order today and I hope some day to be able to print a plane like this. I have a lot to learn first, but I have been flying for a long time. Incredible!
Eclipson as well as 3DLabPrint provide very easy to follow instructions or even pre-sliced GCode to make printing planes really easy! Definitely give it a try.
@@CNCKitchen I will check them out. My printer won't be here for a week or so. I don't even know enough to understand slicer and how it works. But as soon as I get some of the basics down printing a plane is on the top of my list. I am going to start with @localfiend Northern Pike as he has released it at no charge and has a good build thread on the Flite Test forums but I certainly will be looking at other designs and have no problem compensating people for their work. I'm working on a Mooney 21 and trying to stumble my way through learning Fusion360 myself. So much to absorb. I love your channel and have been watching videos left and right. You come highly recommended from many different sources.
I love the clear 3D print, but wonder if it blends into the sky too much. This could make it challenging to know the plane's orientation when it's far away. Great video, thanks!
Isn't there strength levels of the materials so you can avoid that if you wanted too?
Schönes Video - wie immer.
Nice video as always.
Hab mir gerade einen Drucker mit anständigem Build-Volume bestellt (der 10 Jahre alte Reprap kann nur 150mm Z), einen mit 330x330x400mm.
Extra zum Flieger-Drucken, der erste wird ein Eclipson EBW-160. Bin mal gespannt!
Danke für das informative Video!
Impressive!
awesome project. I'm planning to surprise my step dad with a model of his favourite plane (mustang P51) and i'll likely use this model to understand the mechanics
Ich liebe dieses Flugzeug :) Mein Uropa war damals der Jüngste Pilot der dieses (damals hochmoderne) Flugzeug fliegen durfte :) Ein sehr cooles Video
Nicely done. That plane rocked!!
I'm just printing the Cessna 152 from them right now. :) I had some really cool RC Planes back in my home region but since I started studying in north germany, I wasn't able to fly at all. But I will get back to this hobby and I already designed my own printable RC Plane, that well... lets say ended up being very heavy and I crashed while I was launching it because it wasn't able to achieve the lift that would be neccesarry. Wish me luck with the professionally designed one from 3DLabPrint :)
I currently tweaking the settings, as the supplied gcode is not good for my modified Anet A8 with a Bowden E3D v6, Mistral cooling duct and the 3 month old, room stored Janbex PLA on an glass bed without any spray or glue on it.
(Lots of stringing, some Wrapping on the wing tip)
Thank you for this video series and the suggested settings :) Instant Sub after that :D
Nicely presented,thank you for a most informative video.
The biggest problem with PLA is the lower melting point in combination with thin walled prints. If you leave the 3D printed plane in your car on a hot, sunny day there is a good chance that serious warping will occur, which cannot be fixed. With darker colored parts, the problem will be even worse due to passive solar heating, even while flying and especially near the power plant (motor, battery, esc) as additional heat is generated there during operation. This is why I use either ABS or PETG filament for my RC airplane parts. They will not warp as easily. I am going to try PLA+ with my next project to see how well that works.
Great Video. Thx, pls wich nozzle diameter do u use? Thx, axel
In guitar work, it is common to use super glue mixed with baking soda.
It is said that it dries to a very high hardness.
If you don't have glass beads, baking soda works as well.
Wow ! Im just about to click the button on an Enders 3 Pro and this has inspired me to build whole planes instead of winglet,s, motormount,s and pilots ..........making a BF 109........ Naaa not so much , but i can see a British make SPITFIRE, in my 3d Printed Hanger ;0)
Good idea of taking a BF109 to make the model
baking soda works well to fill gaps with superglue
How about you add some RGB lights inside for night flying 😊
Superglue and Baking Soda also works great for filling gaps, if youn dont have glass beeds or really fine sand.
2:44 - 2:53 that is so satisfying
I had trouble with the wings shrinking and pulling off the bed too. My bed was still at the right temperature, although the atmosphere was quite cold, and I believe this may have been the cause for the pulling.
that's a nice bit of Baltic birch you have there
2 years later & I'm starting the 3DLabPrints P-17 Stearman. We'll see how it goes!
@Parker Fox it looks like the biggest difference is the performance package uses a 14.8V battery but the eco performance uses 11.1V. The performance package is going to be able to spin a bigger prop faster at the top end. I think it's overkill for this model. This isn't a speed plane. I've already got the exact motor specified for the performance package, so I'll use it. My batteries (if they're still alive to charge) are the 3S 11.1V, & I've already got a 56A speed controller, so I'll use that. I plan on using an 11 X 5.5 or 11X4 prop so it should pull through the air a little slower. I may need to change that up though, I'll just have to see.
Overall, I think either package should work well, but all the recommendations in the guide are out of stock (outdated, so no longer for sale). Looks like you'll just have to find something roughly comparable as far as size, weight, & power output, & go with that.
@Parker Fox I've only looked at the Stearman P-17, so I'm basing everything on that. Looking at the differences between the 2 packages there, I'd say you'll probably be ok with either. The eco package seems more than adequate, & the performance package doesn't look like a huge step up from that. I haven't flown for several years, so I've been trying to practice up with my old Realflight 6 simulator. Before I fly this P-17 Stearman, I plan on getting an old foam Tigermoth running again, so I can crash THAT instead, until I get a little more steady on my landings!
Intro be like: Brace for impact !!! 😊
WUNDERBAR!
WONDERLIK!
WONDERFUL!
IT IS A VERY GOOD DESIGN OF A GERMAN BF 109 G I LIKE A VERY GOOD JOB
Thank you for your videos, you deserve a lot!!
Wow, nice project
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
Nice 109 model. It looks really good!
Errr ? So as far as the structure is concerned the steel control surface push-rods are the heaviest items. Could they not be replaced by PLA ?
Could the Fuselage sections ends be formed with a rebated edge so as to form a lap joint between sections ? OK, that sort of design might detract from the outward appearance of a transparent model, but the increase in strength would be well worth-it in coloured/painted models.
Can you 3d print a Freewing F-22 Raptor 90mm EDF JET ??? What sort of materiel would you use so it will be light and hard like foam and not brittle ???
GG I just purchased a CR-10 S4 and I am looking forward to printing my first 3D labprint aircraft just have to decide which I want to choose.
For that size I would print it in LW-PLA, I bet it would fly much better with the lower wing loading.
Inspiring. Thank you for the motivation. Been designing rc parkjets based on depron sheets. I might probably design parkjets for 3d printers shortly 😊
Very cool!
eSun ePLA-LW (Lightweight PLA) would be indicated for this application. Maybe an update video would be interesting?
Hi I love this video as I have been building and flying model airplanes for about 30 years and recently got into 3d printing to make parts for my planes I never really thought about printing an entire plane, I just wanted to ask about the build surface you used it looks like a plane glass bed ?.this would make sense as it would produce a reasonably flat surface for gluing the parts together.
Dieser deutsche Akzent ich fühle es
Thanks for sharing. I had a few missing tweaks to Cura and that helped me over the line. I have already printed the EasyMaxx and now want to improve the qality of the prints for the P51D project as this looks similar to your Messerschmitt. The quality of your choice of PLA cannot be overstated as this shines through; as so with the feed and flow rates and making sure your bowden tube is optimally placed to avoid snagging - especially as the HE raises higher up the Z axis, as is the case on my new AnyCubic i3 MegaS. I use a rubber band to help guide the bowden tube away from the Z axis screw - ANyCubic tiewrap the bowden to the HE cables which is not optimal. Getting perfect thin-wall prints is very hard, but with time and effort it can be acheived on any printer without the need to buy Simplyfy 3D and a Prusa which seems to be 3DLabs choice. Where money is no obect go for a Prusa, but many printers like the Ender 3 Pro and the AnyCubic i3 Mega S are well up to the task.
I received a CTC DIY printer for Christmas, and I notice at 7:00 that you have a glass plate on the bed. What kind of glass is it. My printer did not have one and the first item that I printed marked the bed. Thanks for advice. I am a total newbie at this.
Most glass will do. Just make sure it's flat. Mirrors are good for that or buy pre cut pieces for your bed size on Amazon.
Just printed the Eclipson VTOL. Waiting on electronics to arrive.
Thank you for the great guide, appreciate it! Which are the control surfaces? Thanks for your help!
Thanks for your Video, do you think this is possible to slice/print in Bambu Lab P1P?
Im currently building a focke-wolf from 3d print labs and also their submariner spitfire also there such awsome designs and i also went with transparent pla 😎
i liked your video but it is so advanced for a newbie of 3d printing
Thanks man finally got a good print with your settings. I changes the nozzle to 0,5 mm to get the perfect weight and stifness. 👍👍👍😎
I like this project! it was a realy interesting idea that it would be possible to show parts of the actual framework based on the original. I also like the camera experiment.
Hoping for a response - is there a wat to text edit the g code so that the print is centered on the build plate?
(When I load the g code directly, it prints in the corner where the plate seems to be unevenly heated, and warping occurs)
Great work! My printer is 300x300x400, I wonder if PLA is strong and light enough to work if I scaled this up to 200%? It would probably take a month to print though, lol.
Excellent effort and so interesting to see through the model. Subscribed.
I think you meant to say "first flight". The "final flight" would be where it crashes and gets totally destroyed... ^_^ Incidentally, instead of the glass micro-balloons, try baking soda - it behaves as an accelerator. Or mix a few percent baking soda with the micro-balloons (lighter). We used to use baking soda in a squeeze bottle for ultra-quick field repairs during control-line combat/F2D matches - this was back when we flew all-wood models and before foam wings took over. Just hold the broken pieces together, puff some baking soda into the joint, and squirt thin CA on it. If necessary add more baking soda. The glue would set off immediately. For pushrods - try aluminum brazing wire (the straight rods, not the stuff on a spool). MUCH easier to bend and lighter to boot - the 1.5mm should be strong enough but you can also get 2mm and 3mm. As with all pushrods, long ones need to be braced.
Gonna end in tears. Yeah, that'd most likely be me. lol. Great series! Thumbs up!
Is PLA way to go? or we should consider some more advanced filaments?
warum kein 2 - komponenten kleber ?... der so schön dick is, aus dem baumarkt ... gehts um die transparens ? dass das so halbwegs im gleichen farbton bleibt ?
Hauptsache erstmal 'nen Höhenjäger ausgedruckt, der dann auch noch fliegt! Sehr cool!
I used these settings on the Ender 3 pro. Worked great, But i have slight warping on the print base. Maybe i need to sand it more :P
Super Videos von dir, danke dafür. Frage, wieso machst du nicht mal einen versuch mit LW-PLA der vergleich Colorfabb und eSun währe auch toll. Diese Filamente sind ja für RC Flugzeuge ideal!? Freue mich schon auf das Video :-)
Hallo Stefan - i print now the Stucka Focke- Wulf 152 H :)
Got the PT17, and Cessna 152 completed and flying. Now working on the 64 inch edge 540
What are the approximate print times in total for a full aircraft?
Can you tell me what speed you print at? I'm having problems printing the wings because they so thin
Please help scren short setting creality slicer or cura 🙏
Very well done, thank you!
Nice
Looks great!
Hello @CNC Kitchen
thank you for this nice video. I bought this plane and have printed the parts, currently assembling. They all fit together very nicely without any adjustments coming from my Prusa. There is only a small gap on both wing halves between the first and second element, which I filled with putty.
I am asking myself one thing however and want to know your opinion. The elements are all glued together just on the edges, there is no connecting elements to hold them in place other than the glue. This seems to me like it could very easily shear off, especially under stress in some maneuvers.
The obvious pro of this is that the parts break apart cleanly and can easily be glued back together. However I'm asking myself if the overall integrity is too low without elements gripping into each other (Male/Female approach) to work against shear forces (Abscherung).
What is your opinion on this?
this is late, but you could consider plastic welding the pieces together with a solder iron and plastic or 3d pen.
Is it a good idea to get a commercial grade 3d printer and start making basic RC airplanes and make a living off that?
What is the difference between the eco performance and the high performance set ups for the 3D lab print planes and which would you recommend and why?
great build i love it keep up the great work
Why do not extend connection edges a bit or overlap struts to slide in between glued parts.
My dad and i just bought your P45 thunderbolt model and are excited to build and fly it. I was also wondering if its possible to make an A-10 Warthog model? I just really like the A-10 design and really want to add it to my collection of RC planes.
Your settings worked great for this noob and Ender 3v2. Thank you 👍
When you landed it in the intro I legit thought that it would shatter on impact.
Hey!! Will it be possible to print this with wanhao duplicator i3 mini ??? Thanks!!
I laughed so hard in the Beginning (German as well) :D
Nicht so tief Rüdiger! :D
Hi, which printer do I need to print a plane like this one? a good cheaper option.
An Ender-3 (pro) should be suitable.
im having a hard time getting LWPla to print reliably. getting blisters on surface, poor wall adhesion, stringing, and pitting. ive been over every single setting in cura. on the same printer i get bulletproof reliability with Pla. flsun v400 w/ tungsten carbide .4mm nozzle. i maintain the printer exceptionally. sunlu PLA for days with next to zero errors. using overture LW-Pla. using eclipson recommended settings did not provide a sufficient part. is there a difference between LWPLA and "prefoamed" LWPLA? there isnt a noticeable increase in volume of the filament between printing at 190 vs 250. can someone guide me to more information on eclipson planes? i have 4 of their STL and want to make it work.
Hi, I'm also having the same problem PLUS a lot of warpping on all the print surface with my prusa mk4 and PolyAir 1.0 from 3dLabPrint, I tryied the settings from 3dlabprint (they havethe documentation for prusa slicer version 2.4, and at the moment i have the 2.7.4). Also tryied the settings advised from prusa and prusa foruns but at no avail. I'm going to try a simple print without any settings (default settings from the slicer, maybe it will print ok but will be a little heavier, but I don't care at the moment :D ) from prusa and 3dlabprint only to see what happen, because at the moment I'm completly lost :(. Can any one help?
@@nunocosta1060 The internet has told me to abandon LWpla altogether.
Hello Stefan. I printed a wing sample in black PLA, I had a problem after placing the part near the window, and summer sun in Spain made it get soooo hot that it bended and ruined the part. How can you print a plane in pla that will fly and will have direct sun light?? it is because transparent PLA resists sun light?? I am so interested in making a 3d printed plane for my RC collection, but was wondering if PETG is not a better material.
Yes - avoid black. Try printing a sample in another less dark color.