This tidbit on eye position saved me from redesigning a lure completely-I wasn’t getting a good wobble. I moved the eye position down a cpl mm and it’s doing the Macarena now!
Every week there is a " light bulb " moment to take to my garage/workshop. Much appreciated. Inspiration imagination and innovation keeping my developments ticking along at just the right time.
For myself I consider it a light switch moment. If I came up with the idea myself it's a light bulb moment but week after week Franco flicks my switch 😁
Great stuff Franco! Surprised to read that the views go down on instructional videos. There are dozens of " let's hack a lure out of this hunk of wood and paint it pretty" videos - all fluff and no details and they rarely show under water footage so you don’t even know if it swims! You would figure that a video with (real) useful content would get lots of appreciation (and views)! Guess that us " lure nerds" have to stick together eh? LOL! Looking forward to the next video! Take care!
Another fantastic Master Class Franco! Proud to be a 60 year old “lure nerd”. Thank you for both sharing your knowledge, and doing it with passion. You remind me of the old saying “When a person is on fire with passion people will come from miles away to watch them burn.” I hope your channel tops a million subs to come and watch your passion burn!
Another great class Franco. I am hoping when you cover depth in the next segment that you can get into some discussion on deep dive attributes......I am the subscriber that suggested Crankenstein....My wife was nearby and overheard the audio and went hysterical with laughter. You made our day.........
I love the name...my wife laughed when she heard it. I will definitely touch on designing for a deep dive but it will be a few weeks. These instructional type videos really drop my viewership and the algorithm looses interest in the channel. Thank you so much for watching and your comments and suggestions. Cheers.
Thanks for starting these videos Franco. I have been a subscriber for about a year and it was your videos that started my new hobby. Up here in BC, Canada I don’t the variety of freshwater species that you folks do down south but i have been able to apply some of your methods and ideas to small trout baits with some success but i never had a good grasp on what makes some of these work and others that don’t. This new series has already taught me a lot and I eagerly look forward to more. Wish you tight lines!!
Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge! Most lure makers keep all their secrets to them selfs! Very grateful to have learned again so much from you!
Useless lures make great keyrings. I know from experience... Id love for you to do a masterclass on stickbaits/vibes etc and how they swim without a bib.
Franco! You’re the man! I’ve always wanted to know why I make some baits, a lot of balsa baits, and they’re super tight but I make others with seemingly the same body and weight and they’re wide wobbling and erratic. I’m going to apply these line tie details and experiment further! And I can’t wait for the lip angle to depth relationship and weight placement. Those are the three things where In my bait making is just a trial and error. Thanks for the details , please keep them coming!
....the dynamic engineering of lure design...it's always enjoyable and informative to watch your "technical" videos!!! Weight placement would also be a useful topic!!! Keep up the great work !!!
Great video, excellent ... huge information, explanations, solutions to problems, insight to the construction and the anticipated movement... inspiration...I don't have the words to describe what I earn looking this video (l will see it again and again) Probably iits the point of view of an engineer that excites me (being an engineer) .. grateful.. looking forward your next masterclass. !!!!!!!❤️❤️
Very nice as always! Kinda liked that rocking wiggle the modded Jelly Bean had. Wonder what conditioned Bass would think of it? Hmmm? Thank you. All the best!
Very helpful I've always found that I tend to get the best action with the line tie at the point of body roll which is typically near the belly line but I found your explanation about center of drag to be very satisfying and insightful, well done!
I was thinking about a big swimbait and using barrel swivels in it for the treble hooks your the only one i watch building lures is this some you would be willing to build and try out
Thanks for explaining this! Just getting started in making my own lures vs buying blanks and airbrushing them and this video makes a lot of sense regarding setup of bib and tow eye.
Hi Franco! Seeing that lure you showed at the end, the one that didnt worked good, I noticed that the lip angle & position on the body and the position of the line connection screw eye, is almost the same as some lures that I did, that didnt worked either. In my case the lure body was simetrical and the lip slot correctly centered, but it either porpoised or rolled to the side and blew out, or a mix of both. It got fixed installing the lip closer to the nose of the lure. It seems that a steep angled lips, installed further away from the lures nose doesnt work well. Any info about this issue? Did you ever found out what on you lure was the cause of the bad action? Keep the masterclass episodes!!!
Love the info, it all helps in the process, I am relatively new to lure making and have made a few duds, but it is all part of the learning process, great video mate 👌👍
I was wondering about 2 or 3 lures with no wigle action, but action as you say "horse movement" witch I made a 1-2 years ago :). The lures go to trash of course, but I was wondering how can I achive that strange thing. I tried more weight, less and so on, but never try to change the position of the eye :)
Thank you so kindly for all your time and energy that you've put into this channel! I have referenced your videos so many times! I made your Game Changers last week, and they came out looking really awesome! I put big "Stick-o's" on the back from Cabelas, and the lures all three spiral on the retrieve rather than wobble like yours did in the video. I am sure I have something off center or have some of my balance off with the lures, but I was wondering if you have a way to cure that spiraling without scrapping the builds. I love the concept of the Game Changer! Yours on the video look amazing! Could I put some lead tape on the bottoms of them somewhere to help them stabilize and wobble rather than spiral? - Thank you so kindly, Tres
First put a small tail on it. It should be tapered with no legs or any other protrusions. Make some aggressive adjustments to the tie on eye. Bend it to the side away from the direction of spiral. If you can't get the spiral out try bending it up away from the bib ass well. If you still can't get the spiral out the bib is installed out of square too much. Good luck.
@@EngineeredAngler Those are awesome suggestions! Thank you so kindly....I was worried my "Stick-0" was too long as a trailer off the back end. I didn't think about bending the tie eye up ward, that is also a bigtime idea! Thanks so much for all your videos and for the reply today! I am enjoying making crankbaits and experimenting. I have learned so much from your masterclass videos and from you engineered and precision approach to this craft. Do you have an email address that you use for the channel? I would love to email you some pics of the Game Changers i made after watching your video! - Thanks so much, Tres
i´ve been trying to fix some of my most beautiful duds, and this gave me some ideas to try out, thanks! did you ever make the next video you talked about at the end there?
I wish I could achieve that porpasing action ( probably spelt wrong ) That porpasing action would be killer on a multi jointed yabby (crawdads for the USA)
What would you consider the biggest issue with blowout? Would you suggest more shallow ballast holes vs 1 deeper ballast hole? Should ballast always go to centerline?
Blowout can't be prevented with weight shifting. The hydrodynamic forces from the bib and body FAR out power any influence from the weight. Blowout is due to dynamic instability, usually from miss alignment of the bib or tie on eye, or an asymmetry in the lure body. Or all the above.
I'd be interested to hear exactly how your "dud" lure behaves. Just by looking at it, I would say that your bib angle needs to be steeper given that it is so far back under the chin. Either that, or move the bib a bit further forward and placing the tow point more toward the nose (this would necessitate making a completely new lure, of course).
Hi! Im just starting luremaking and I find your videos very helpfull. I live in Sweden and intend to do a northern pike lipless swimbait and i'd like it to have lots of side to side and belly flash for a slow intake. Could you please do a video with this action and no bib/lip. Thanks either way 🙈
I'm absolutely loving these classes. Do you have a email you could share so that me as a new lure builder can come and ask for tips? I am in Sweden, fishing for northeners only, and we have a lousy crankbait market compared to your.. you are lucky if the main lure companies have two or max three crankbaits for pike/Musky and the most famous Swedish one is 22cm. Longer than that doesn't exist. Crankbait has fallen waaaaay out of favor her unfortunately as they have great track records, holding largest pike many many years in a row. I like crankbaits and the ability to really play alot with them to come up with different behaviours. These two clips from you have learnt me more than all I have previously read or heard online. Crankbaits and what you call gliders with tails (we call them jerkbaits..) so it is these two classes I am going to start experiment. I will also be different to other builders as I'll be making mu lures in resin, as that's what I have experience with, and much less fine tree work. But I still need to build in tree before I find models and form that have my wished action. Would love to be able to come in contact with you and maybe send you some baits when I have a model ready? Would love to have feedback from someone knowing the innards of the action. My father is an engineer but he has no time for something like this, mo interest in it either. Best regard, Mathias Kronsell from Svängsta, yes, I live 300m from ABU factory.
Can the width of the lip effect the action and dynamic angle? I.E can the width in relation to the the line ties dynamic force on the Z axis cause the lure to constantly say on it's one side until failure and complete lure roll? Two identical lures, one with a square bill and the other with a round bill. The Square bill fails.
@@EngineeredAngler thank you for the response. Always fascinating to see you build. I watched this and the build of the shiner one attached. If I understand correctly the wide point being 1/3 back, on top view and side view, helped achieve the roll on straight retrieve? And I assume the all round, no staight section, of the body shape also helped the roll? Or was it the sloped head? Could that slope have acted like a crank bill?
@@benrollinh526 The idea is to avoid a streamlined shape, blunt nose tapering to a pointed tail. And maximize turbulence near the deepest part of the lure.. body roll is exaggerated with a deeper body x-section, distance top to bottom. A panfish shape will swim and roll. Good luck...have fun with it.
This is gold! Great info. So, the line tie should be somewhere close to the center of drag of the dynamic angle. I can eyeball the center of drag of a lure if I look at it from the front and place it in the dynamic angle. The center point of the lures surface that hit the water will be the center of drag. Everything ok up to this point, but I cannot seem to understand this, when I see a steep running deep diver crankbait like for example a DT20. ua-cam.com/video/Y_oNc_5kGmM/v-deo.html The line tie seems to be way to low regarding the center of drag during the dynamic angle. Did I miss something? In fact, with deep divers I had some issues with the woobling when building those. I had a few of them that dived, but didnt wobble.
Absolutely the best instructor on lure making. Jim Rodgers
Wow, thanks!
Nothing nerdy about teaching us, very useful info! Wish you did longer vids!
This helped so much none of the lures I made really wiggled and I now I know why!
More nerd videos!
This video is the stuff that makes me scratch my head. I’ve got a few dolphin lures, perch like it.
This tidbit on eye position saved me from redesigning a lure completely-I wasn’t getting a good wobble. I moved the eye position down a cpl mm and it’s doing the Macarena now!
So cool! It's nice when you can turn a dud into a good lure.
Love that big school bus lure. Frankenlure
Every week there is a " light bulb " moment to take to my garage/workshop. Much appreciated. Inspiration imagination and innovation keeping my developments ticking along at just the right time.
That is gratifying to hear. Cheers.
For myself I consider it a light switch moment.
If I came up with the idea myself it's a light bulb moment but week after week Franco flicks my switch 😁
@@pakde8002 : )
Thank you for doing all that you do. Female lure maker here btw. 😉
Nice to know...according to UA-cam about 5% of my viewers are female. Welcome to the channel.
Making a crankbait with multiple line tie eyes is actually a genius idea. That would sell out so fast.
Franko great job!! Great to see a nerdy video of someone who gets the whole picture of how baits work. Get your freak on buddy LOL
Thanks 👍
Getting to this late Franco. Another clear explanation. The complex suddenly makes sense. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Learned a lot from the first and second installment of this series and will definitely be looking for the next notification. TFT.
Excellent explanations of the forces at work against a lure. I would use the pretty dud as a tool handle, file, rasp, etc.
Good idea
These are my favorite videos from you! You’re very good at explaining how to do stuff in detail
Glad you like them! Thank you.
Great stuff Franco! Surprised to read that the views go down on instructional videos. There are dozens of " let's hack a lure out of this hunk of wood and paint it pretty" videos - all fluff and no details and they rarely show under water footage so you don’t even know if it swims! You would figure that a video with (real) useful content would get lots of appreciation (and views)! Guess that us " lure nerds" have to stick together eh? LOL! Looking forward to the next video! Take care!
I know! No worries I'll keep putting out the content I like to do.
The hero we needed! Thank you!
great!!! thank you so much!!! you managed to get in words,what happend in my head
Franco you are a legend! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge! I am about to start designing a bunch of cranks and this is so helpful!
Good luck 👍 and thanks
Another fantastic Master Class Franco! Proud to be a 60 year old “lure nerd”. Thank you for both sharing your knowledge, and doing it with passion. You remind me of the old saying “When a person is on fire with passion people will come from miles away to watch them burn.” I hope your channel tops a million subs to come and watch your passion burn!
Thank you...I'm trying, but I can use all the help I can get growing the channel. Cheers.
Wow... that's so kind, thank you.
Another great class Franco. I am hoping when you cover depth in the next segment that you can get into some discussion on deep dive attributes......I am the subscriber that suggested Crankenstein....My wife was nearby and overheard the audio and went hysterical with laughter. You made our day.........
I love the name...my wife laughed when she heard it. I will definitely touch on designing for a deep dive but it will be a few weeks. These instructional type videos really drop my viewership and the algorithm looses interest in the channel. Thank you so much for watching and your comments and suggestions. Cheers.
Hi Franco ! Great video !
Waiting for next masterclass!
Excellent, excellent, excellent Sir!!!
Thank you
Thanks for starting these videos Franco. I have been a subscriber for about a year and it was your videos that started my new hobby. Up here in BC, Canada I don’t the variety of freshwater species that you folks do down south but i have been able to apply some of your methods and ideas to small trout baits with some success but i never had a good grasp on what makes some of these work and others that don’t. This new series has already taught me a lot and I eagerly look forward to more. Wish you tight lines!!
Thank you, its very satisfying to hear that folks are learning from my videos. Cheers.
Really getting a lot of great information out of this Master Class series! Great videos! Thank you. 🙂
Very welcome!
Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge! Most lure makers keep all their secrets to them selfs! Very grateful to have learned again so much from you!
I enjoy it. Thanks for your feedback.
Useless lures make great keyrings. I know from experience...
Id love for you to do a masterclass on stickbaits/vibes etc and how they swim without a bib.
Yes!
ha ha i bet thats why people started making key rings and bottle openers with lures
excellent explanation, good video, greetings ...
eagerly awaiting part 3.
Hi there, just finished to see this nice class 2 and wondering to see the next one!!!!! Take care...
Thanks, you too!
Very good lessons, keep it up!!!
Franco! You’re the man! I’ve always wanted to know why I make some baits, a lot of balsa baits, and they’re super tight but I make others with seemingly the same body and weight and they’re wide wobbling and erratic. I’m going to apply these line tie details and experiment further! And I can’t wait for the lip angle to depth relationship and weight placement. Those are the three things where In my bait making is just a trial and error. Thanks for the details , please keep them coming!
....the dynamic engineering of lure design...it's always enjoyable and informative to watch your "technical" videos!!!
Weight placement would also be a useful topic!!! Keep up the great work !!!
Thanks Franko, that cleared it up with the action... so higher tie on losser action, steeper bib deeper a diving.
Crankenstein!!! 😂😂😂
Keep it up Franco, we nerds needs you.
Always!
This is absolutely awesome !I appreciate your explanations. It really helps me to make a better lure👍👍
Great video, excellent ... huge information, explanations, solutions to problems, insight to the construction and the anticipated movement...
inspiration...I don't have the words to describe what I earn looking this video (l will see it again and again) Probably iits the point of view
of an engineer that excites me (being an engineer) .. grateful.. looking forward your next masterclass. !!!!!!!❤️❤️
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great information i really enjoy your videos thank you
Glad you like them!
I like that high action one :0
Very nice as always! Kinda liked that rocking wiggle the modded Jelly Bean had. Wonder what conditioned Bass would think of it? Hmmm? Thank you. All the best!
That was very helpful can't wait for the next video
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful I've always found that I tend to get the best action with the line tie at the point of body roll which is typically near the belly line but I found your explanation about center of drag to be very satisfying and insightful, well done!
Glad it helped. Cheers
I was thinking about a big swimbait and using barrel swivels in it for the treble hooks your the only one i watch building lures is this some you would be willing to build and try out
Thanks for explaining this! Just getting started in making my own lures vs buying blanks and airbrushing them and this video makes a lot of sense regarding setup of bib and tow eye.
Glad I could help!
great video! can you explain why your one you keep around to keep you humble is a dud?
Great knowledge
Hi Franco! Seeing that lure you showed at the end, the one that didnt worked good, I noticed that the lip angle & position on the body and the position of the line connection screw eye, is almost the same as some lures that I did, that didnt worked either. In my case the lure body was simetrical and the lip slot correctly centered, but it either porpoised or rolled to the side and blew out, or a mix of both. It got fixed installing the lip closer to the nose of the lure.
It seems that a steep angled lips, installed further away from the lures nose doesnt work well. Any info about this issue?
Did you ever found out what on you lure was the cause of the bad action?
Keep the masterclass episodes!!!
Love the info, it all helps in the process, I am relatively new to lure making and have made a few duds, but it is all part of the learning process, great video mate 👌👍
I was wondering about 2 or 3 lures with no wigle action, but action as you say "horse movement" witch I made a 1-2 years ago :). The lures go to trash of course, but I was wondering how can I achive that strange thing. I tried more weight, less and so on, but never try to change the position of the eye :)
Thank you so kindly for all your time and energy that you've put into this channel! I have referenced your videos so many times! I made your Game Changers last week, and they came out looking really awesome! I put big "Stick-o's" on the back from Cabelas, and the lures all three spiral on the retrieve rather than wobble like yours did in the video. I am sure I have something off center or have some of my balance off with the lures, but I was wondering if you have a way to cure that spiraling without scrapping the builds. I love the concept of the Game Changer! Yours on the video look amazing! Could I put some lead tape on the bottoms of them somewhere to help them stabilize and wobble rather than spiral? - Thank you so kindly, Tres
First put a small tail on it. It should be tapered with no legs or any other protrusions. Make some aggressive adjustments to the tie on eye.
Bend it to the side away from the direction of spiral. If you can't get the spiral out try bending it up away from the bib ass well. If you still can't get the spiral out the bib is installed out of square too much. Good luck.
@@EngineeredAngler Those are awesome suggestions! Thank you so kindly....I was worried my "Stick-0" was too long as a trailer off the back end. I didn't think about bending the tie eye up ward, that is also a bigtime idea! Thanks so much for all your videos and for the reply today! I am enjoying making crankbaits and experimenting. I have learned so much from your masterclass videos and from you engineered and precision approach to this craft. Do you have an email address that you use for the channel? I would love to email you some pics of the Game Changers i made after watching your video! - Thanks so much, Tres
you can email me at Engineeredangler@gmail.com
i´ve been trying to fix some of my most beautiful duds, and this gave me some ideas to try out, thanks! did you ever make the next video you talked about at the end there?
Yes I did
That porpoise action looks like a cray
I wish I could achieve that porpasing action ( probably spelt wrong )
That porpasing action would be killer on a multi jointed yabby (crawdads for the USA)
What would you consider the biggest issue with blowout? Would you suggest more shallow ballast holes vs 1 deeper ballast hole? Should ballast always go to centerline?
Blowout can't be prevented with weight shifting. The hydrodynamic forces from the bib and body FAR out power any influence from the weight. Blowout is due to dynamic instability, usually from miss alignment of the bib or tie on eye, or an asymmetry in the lure body. Or all the above.
I'd be interested to hear exactly how your "dud" lure behaves. Just by looking at it, I would say that your bib angle needs to be steeper given that it is so far back under the chin. Either that, or move the bib a bit further forward and placing the tow point more toward the nose (this would necessitate making a completely new lure, of course).
That's a pretty good assessment
The one dislike is from the commercial lure companies.
Hi! Im just starting luremaking and I find your videos very helpfull. I live in Sweden and intend to do a northern pike lipless swimbait and i'd like it to have lots of side to side and belly flash for a slow intake. Could you please do a video with this action and no bib/lip. Thanks either way 🙈
That's a tough one...lipless baits generally have to be retrieved quickly. I'll work on it. Thanks for the suggestion.
I know its a bit of topic, but what thickness was your blank on your vid of the 'lazy ike' lure?
5/8 inch...if memory serves
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks
I'm absolutely loving these classes. Do you have a email you could share so that me as a new lure builder can come and ask for tips?
I am in Sweden, fishing for northeners only, and we have a lousy crankbait market compared to your.. you are lucky if the main lure companies have two or max three crankbaits for pike/Musky and the most famous Swedish one is 22cm. Longer than that doesn't exist. Crankbait has fallen waaaaay out of favor her unfortunately as they have great track records, holding largest pike many many years in a row.
I like crankbaits and the ability to really play alot with them to come up with different behaviours. These two clips from you have learnt me more than all I have previously read or heard online.
Crankbaits and what you call gliders with tails (we call them jerkbaits..) so it is these two classes I am going to start experiment.
I will also be different to other builders as I'll be making mu lures in resin, as that's what I have experience with, and much less fine tree work. But I still need to build in tree before I find models and form that have my wished action.
Would love to be able to come in contact with you and maybe send you some baits when I have a model ready? Would love to have feedback from someone knowing the innards of the action. My father is an engineer but he has no time for something like this, mo interest in it either. Best regard, Mathias Kronsell from Svängsta, yes, I live 300m from ABU factory.
you can email me at EngineeredAngler@gmail.com
Can the width of the lip effect the action and dynamic angle? I.E can the width in relation to the the line ties dynamic force on the Z axis cause the lure to constantly say on it's one side until failure and complete lure roll? Two identical lures, one with a square bill and the other with a round bill. The Square bill fails.
Yes, the square bill can exacerbate a misaligned tie-on spot.
Thank you for the videos they are very helpful, how can i make a manns 25 swim at 13 to 14 feet,is this possible
That lure is meant to be trolled. Just let out enough line it will get down there.
Higher is better hunting action by the way you described it.
Question ❓
Is there a body shape that provides roll to the bait on straight retrieve, WITHOUT a lip?
ua-cam.com/video/JKirTpBQWPA/v-deo.html
@@EngineeredAngler thank you for the response. Always fascinating to see you build. I watched this and the build of the shiner one attached. If I understand correctly the wide point being 1/3 back, on top view and side view, helped achieve the roll on straight retrieve? And I assume the all round, no staight section, of the body shape also helped the roll? Or was it the sloped head? Could that slope have acted like a crank bill?
@@benrollinh526
The idea is to avoid a streamlined shape, blunt nose tapering to a pointed tail. And maximize turbulence near the deepest part of the lure.. body roll is exaggerated with a deeper body x-section, distance top to bottom. A panfish shape will swim and roll. Good luck...have fun with it.
@@EngineeredAngler you're the best Franco! Thanks for clarifying! You saved me a ton of prototyping! Like usual!
👏👏👏
I use my duds as chain pulls on my celing fans, thay look cool.
ooh nice idea...thanks.
Heat the bill and bend to make a wake bait on your dud
I have such a short attention span I have to watch this 2x playback speed
What ever it takes....cheers.
This is gold! Great info. So, the line tie should be somewhere close to the center of drag of the dynamic angle. I can eyeball the center of drag of a lure if I look at it from the front and place it in the dynamic angle. The center point of the lures surface that hit the water will be the center of drag. Everything ok up to this point, but I cannot seem to understand this, when I see a steep running deep diver crankbait like for example a DT20.
ua-cam.com/video/Y_oNc_5kGmM/v-deo.html
The line tie seems to be way to low regarding the center of drag during the dynamic angle. Did I miss something?
In fact, with deep divers I had some issues with the woobling when building those. I had a few of them that dived, but didnt wobble.
I hope that it will make a bit more sense after the next Master Class...stay tuned
👍👍🫡
This helped so much none of the lures I made really wiggled and I now I know why!