Using a brine (turning it into a Soleseife castile) for your water actually does make it fantastic in 6-8 weeks. I make them regularly. They are my best sellers. Absolutely no slime/snot, and a wonderful minimalistic bubble lather. Really there is no one right answer when it comes to soaping. Small changes can make a big difference in the chemistry.
I've never tried that, so I guess it could work and I have no reason to doubt you. You are correct, changes in formula can make a difference, but then it stops the soap being what it's actually meant to be, a pure Castile soap, and that's completely OK if that's the soap you choose to make and sell and lets face it, if no-one made changes to things the world wouldn't move on and we wouldn't have all the wonderful varieties of things (everything, not just soap) that we do.
Lisa you have opened my eyes to curing time for Castile Soap. I made some early on in my soap making a year ago, an Italian friend told me he loved it, and asked for more. Granted my bars were smaller than yours, but only cured for 1-3 months when I gave him some to try. I first used one the other day and it’s about 10months, no slime ok lather. But I have the second batch made and in a draw waiting on a visit from him, I think I’ll definitely keep 12 months now. That slime I read about is pretty off putting isn’t it but great demonstration Lisa. Thank you for the soaping research you do and show absolutely brilliant. Hope your safe from the two storms going through the UK and your UK followers.
Thank you so much, yes I do think it makes a difference. That's so lovely of you to keep the soap for your friend. Yes it's pretty windy here at the moment, but luckily ( hope I'm not tempting fate here) everything is OK so far.
Lisa, thank you so much for this video! I’ve been criticized by some so called ‘experts’ for curing my Castile soap for 12 months. You’ve just proven my point.
Sorry Kat, I forgot to include that bit, yes they stopped losing weight after about 8 weeks, so the changes come about because of other things going on in the cure
First of all 21:07 As a Spanish teacher, I burst out laughing when I heard this bc I thought somehow my classroom Spanish song videos list go mixed in with my Soap videos list and I had a moment of "Where-am-I?!" That was the best!! Also, your background for your intro is awesome!! Thanks for all the detailed info about Castille soap! It maybe very simple and plain, but it does take a lot of effort!
I did the same thing. I made a 60 bar batch and tested mine each month up to 13 months. I felt it was the only way for me to truly know when that soap would be ready to sell. super slimy and icky soap up to 10 months but ok soap after that. at 13 months it was amazing! I make it unscented with no color. I also make it into a rectangular 6.0 oz block due to shrinkage. I found 1" bars warp over time. I currently have some on hand and I also have activated charcoal castile soap as well. my to favorite. I'm so glad you made this video. it is hard to express to people that this is in fact a soap that does need to cure the 12 months for a great bar; selling sooner really does it an injustice. Such a great experience and fun to see first hand how the water evaporation changes and crystallization results.
Thank you for making this video. I'm still at my experimental stage about making soaps. I am making Castile infused with herbs soaps right now. I concur with you about the wait time to cut it. My first Castile soap that I made this year, I waited two days and my husband could barely cut it with a knife. LOL I have waited up to a week with other soaps to cut a loaf with no problem. I had read somewhere that certain people wait three to five years to cure their Castile soap. I said this in a Facebook group and got yelled at. lmao The women who only wanted to wait 6 to 8 weeks felt like I was attacking them for not waiting for a proper cure, when I wasn't. The day you made your Laurel Berry Oil Soap, I had just made mine, I had thought to myself, I really wish I had watched Lisa's video before I did this. I had assumed the Laurel Berry would take a very long time just like castile takes a very long time to reach emulsion. Boy, was I wrong. I barely got mine in the mold. Thank you again for all of your videos
Hey Vixen, yes the laurel berry does speed things up and I always think the cutting is surprising, it seems to make sense for castile that as its all liquid oils and takes so long to get to trace that you think it will take ages to unmould and cut, but I think it's easy to get caught out. Oh and yes I see so many of the 'my Castile is great after 6 weeks' posts :-)
If you use faux sea water in the lye mixture (instead of tap or distilled water) the soap comes to trace faster. Back in the day Castile soaps were made with sea water. I use faux sea water because there's no ocean near me and most coastal areas near civilization are very polluted these days. The salt makes the bars harder though so you have to cut them faster. Also they are a bit less slimey. See also "Zany's No Slime Castile" recipe.
Very fun experiment. I've only tried Castile soap once and I barely knew anything about making soap at that time. I should make a batch of it now that I've had some experience in the soap world. Great patience on the production of this video. I loved it!
My kids inherited my skin, allergic to A LOT of things (even the cream doctors suggest for eczema beginning with an E and a couple of numbers) so I used this kind of soap, wonderful stuff and I have now found a UK seller, thanks Lisa, order placed!
Really enjoyed that 😁 I learn something new, every single time I watch one of your videos. Even if it’s not a soap I will make myself, there’s always a tip or trick I’ve learnt, thank you ☺️
Wow! Thanks for doing this! Very informative and greatly appreciated. Also the Spanish happy birthday segment is maybe the best thing I've seen all day.
Wow! Such an amazing result. I was thinking that some of the comments about Castile soap was a bit exaggerated, but not anymore. Thank you for the time, effort and patience in your experiment, plus sharing the results. Cheers 💕👍
Great video Lisa, my Castille took around 14 months to be able to get a good foamy lather, it was perfect after that time, I love a Castille soap. Thank you 🌈💐
Thank you for this video! Early on into soap making, I noticed that folks call their soap Castile even if there were more than one type of oil. When I asked about it, people got quite defensive. I chocked it up to the fact that I was a newbie and didn't know any better. Then I asked about a cure time and there was more ruffled feathers. I guess Castile soap is a sensitive topic. But I so appreciate this video that shows the difference in cure times and reaffirms what I believed to be true.
It's so strange how people get all funny isn't it, I think they just get a little defensive when they say something and someone corrects them, which is human nature
Well done with the stickiness Lisa.. I stumbled on to the long cure by chance , as clients did not buy them due to stickiness 😅😅 n yes i had forgotten the soaps. I was hoping you found a miraculous solution .. 😁😁. Thank you for the detailed video. . And the solution. I love the soap as i have Roseace.. so this is my go to soap ..
Great informative video. I make soaps too, my base is olive oil and coconut oil and sometimes i add cocoa butter. Normally I let it cure for 6 weeks. I'll try this experiment with only olive oil, thank you for your video. -Fabrizia from Panama City, Panama.
Very useful, thank you! I noticed that your soap at the beginning was greenish, but the soap later was cream color. I just finish making my first batch of castile soap, and it looks green like the olive oil I used. Will it turn to a cream color too? Thak you.
Out of a 12 bar batch that I make (when I actually do make castile soap) maybe only 2 live long enough to get to the 1 year mark. Stuff is amazing though.
Yes oil soap is greasy/slimy because it’s basically emulsifying grease from the soap and from your hand combining both and being flushed off I guess it could be compared to the evaporation of water off our skin giving that weird “wet” feeling
Did the color of your soap get lighter as the year progressed or was that just the lighting? And thank you for sharing. I do so enjoy learning from you.
It's interesting. We primarily use olive oil as we are in Cyprus and have our own olive trees. We also use older oil, or oil that isn't used for eating, i.e. the oil at the bottom of the vat. We also don't have dry lye here, it's ready mixed. We don't have lengthy curing or stirring. The older the oil, the quicker it emulsifies.
Gosh, this video gave me a great idea! I started a soap business this year to sell soap specifically to raise money for charity, and a dear friend gifted me a beautiful silicone mold of a sleeping kitten that makes adorable soaps. This video has me thinking I should make some “catstille” soaps to sell for the animal shelter where I volunteer 😄 I do love a good pun!
He, he, I know, isn't it grim, could you imagine getting all covered with that in the shower and then the doorbell ringing and having to grab a towel and dash to open it. I have no clue why my brain when there, but I just had a vision on a Castile slime covered person answering the door to the postman :-)
Lisa, just a quick one... Is it OK if I use pomace olive oil instead of extra virgin? The cost difference is significant here in India (almost 3 times)
So glad you’re back this week, glad you’re ok. My weekend starts right when I get a dose of soap making! 08:30. 🤯 10:10. 🤩 19:30. 🤢 It’s interesting seeing how Castille deals with the ageing process, but it makes me ponder the question… does regular IDIS cold process soap handle differently with age? For those stashing the beautiful bars away to scent their undies drawer, does there come a point bars don’t lather so well? (I can’t keep a bar of soap that long myself😶🌫️)
He, he that snotty soap is funny isn't it. As far as I've seen normal soap still continues to bubble and lather really well. I do actually keep some old soap so that I can monitor it's performance, make sure it's stable, doesn't get DOS etc, but it's still great even after a few years
@@IDreamInSoap Lisa I think the snotty soap is both funny and disgusting in equal measures 😆 I’m gonna have to work out the vagaries of science behind this as it is fascinating. Thank you for undertaking this long term project.
Bonjour, le savon de Castille est connu pour pas mousser beaucoup mais il lave bien et hydrate bien aussi. Par contre le temps de cure est connu pour être long jusqu' à 7 mois voir 1 an. Le savon de Marseille mousse plus car il a de l'huile de Coco à 25%. Ma grand mère en faisait souvent cs 2 savons. Merci pour vos vidéo
Oui, vous avez tout à fait raison, il donnera une mousse correcte après une belle cure longue. L'ajout d'huile de coco augmentera certes les bulles, mais rendra le savon un peu plus asséchant sur la peau.
I loved the experiment! That visual really does help with keeping me from doing anything reckless LOL - I just checked SM3 - 345 days until ready! Thanks Lisa! 💖
shame it lost the beautiful colour i'm wondering if the Laurel Berry you made will also loose it's colour? Well it's pretty clear you have a good size of olive oil but what amount of grms are your lye and water please because i wouldn't have a clue how to figure it out? or if i use your Laurel Berry recipe which was 700 grms of olive oil the lye and water wouldnt be the same would they? thank you
Thanks for taking the time to create this video. I've never made a castile soap before but I do want to try. Question, do you think if sugar is added to the lye solution would increase bubbles as it does for non castile soaps?
It does :) I add simple syrup, 2cups sugar to 1cup boiled distilled water, and then I use it at about 2tsp ppo... my castile lathered at 24 hrs but its still slimy, I cant wait to try it at a couple weeks, months and then a year and maybe 2
Fascinating video, thank you! Have you come across "Zany's No Slime Castile" recipe? It uses faux sea water made by adding specific amounts of sea salt and bicarb to distilled water. Seriously cuts down on both the snottiness and cure time. Someone has made a video of it here on UA-cam, with links to the original. I'd love to see you try it Lisa! I've tried a Castile with real sea water, and really like it after just 2 months cure. Not a lot of lather, but sufficient and very creamy and gentle.
Hi Lisa, I have a possibly silly question: you said this is made of only one type of oil, which is usually olive oil. Can you use different types of oil as well? What if you used an oil like coconut that’s kind of solid at room temperature, would that allow for more bubbles than using olive oil? I really like your new background at the start of the video as well! 😁 maybe you could try marketing the snotty soap as a spider man themed web soap haha
100% coconut oil soaps are commonly used as solid dish and laundry soaps, so you can definitely make soap with just coconut. I’ve never made a coconut only soap for use on skin (I use one for my dishes and it works great!) but I’ve seen others recommend to do a hefty super fat (like, 20% kind of hefty!) to avoid stripping too much moisture out of the skin. As for the name “Castile”, I’m almost certain it only applies to olive oil soap. I believe I read somewhere that “bastile” was created to refer to soaps that were a bastardization of Castile soap lol.
Hi, certainly you can use any oils you like, but then they wouldn't be a Castile soaps. I think Castile soaps are something that some people love and some don't. I personally prefer a lovely bubbly soap, but then I don't have particularly sensitive skin, so that's where Castile comes in, it is very very mild
@@bread9028 a 10% coconut oil to the olive oil will give you the bubbles they are call bastille bars or adding sugar to the water is also suppose to give you bubbles
Great video! If I decide to fragrance the soap should I leave it out for a whole year or should I put it away like in a box in order to protect it from loosing the perfume? Thanks
Bonjour Lisa😊 J’adore la manière que vous expliquer step by step de faire un savon! Le bonnet d’anniversaire montre votre humour 🎉😄🎉 J’attends toujours avec impatience vos vidéos qui sont toujours uniques! J’espère qu’un jour je serais capable de réaliser des savons comme vous! Une merveilleuse journée et merci à vous⭐️
Would it be too cheeky to ask where you source your Olive oil? Havering between organic and non organic from the Soapery. Thankyou as ever for your info packed videos..
I must admit, Its not a favourite of mine, but it does have its place and some people won't use anything else because its so super mild, but I'm with you, it wouldn't be the 1st bar I would pick up.
I don’t make a true Castile soap. Personally, the slime is not off putting to me. I add 5% Castor oil and sugar and Salt. I love this for my face. I may even add a linoleic oil or just use it as a leave on ( which is better) Safflower, Sunflower, Hemp seed oil!
It's quite a while, I would say something like 30-40 minutes, but it will vary on the power of your stick blender and the batch size, this was a batch of 5kg of oils, a smaller amount would be quicker.
But the water isn't the issue with this soap, mine has a super deep water discount too, it definitely continues to change for months after it stops losing water
Over the years of making soap I've kept notes on weight loss on many bars of soap and I've learned a couple of things that apply to water discounting. If you don't mind I'd like to tell you. I've made soap with the lowest discount you can go (thats for another story) and I've also made soap with a water/lye discount of 52%/48% many times and I've kept records of those. At other times I have put more water in it and have kept records of those. I started seeing anomalies I didn't expect.... Soap, no matter the recipe, cures at varying rates. I also found that soap with more water can and will lose weight faster then soap made with less water (I thought the same as you here). Soap can average anywhere from .1 grams to .3 grams of loss per day. Soap is like concrete. In the initial stages the heat may rise as high as 200 degrees with an extreme water discount but it doesn't last very long. The heat will fizzle out faster. I don't know why but later on in that soaps lifetime, even a year later, the soap can and will crack because of that high short heat. I finally figured out why some soaps were curing faster. The lesser water requires less stick blending or what could be considered as less sufficient stickblending and it turns out that soaps that I have blended more thoroughly actually lost weight faster then soaps with less stick blending. My conclusion was extreme water discounting can lead to cracking soap and lose water at a lower rate per day then soap with a greater content of water but is blended more thoroughly.
@@iwannaapple7190 I don't do a water discount in an attempt to lose water quicker or cure quicker and yes, I agree if you have more water to start it will, of course, lose more water faster in the early stages, that's not my reason for the water discount. I water discount my soaps because if you use a high amount of water the bars can actually distort when they cure and lose the excess water. Not putting it in in the 1st place prevents that. Also, the extra water discount I use for the Castile soap isn't anything to do with curing as the water loss was complete well before the full year cure. I do it because olive oil doesn't like too much water and if too much is added the oil and water can actually separate. Also with it being such a basic recipe with no complicated design etc there is no need for excess to try to keep the batter fluid for the design element. The concept of less water needs less stick blending I find not to be the case, in fact, I have specifically done tests to see if a soap with less water comes to emulsion quicker than a soap with more and found over numerous tests where everything was equal apart from a difference in water, that the higher water soap will be emulsified sooner. This is because a less viscous liquid will actually be mixed more when it's blended than a thicker liquid as a thinner (more water) liquid will move more when the blender is applied.
@@IDreamInSoap I actually think the term water discount is a bit confusing. To me, everything after a 50/50 ratio is called adding water. What would your typical "water discount" be so I can understand your approach better? I was never really focusing on the water amount. My focus was toward the amount of time used stick blending. It turned out that blending well played a bigger role in water loss than I previously thought. "Loose" water that was not blended quite as well tended to take longer to evaporate. And I can confirm that misshapen bar. My very first recipe said to use 2.5x water than lye. Still have that bar but the sides did shrink in. As for time blending to get a trace--Must be altitude differences?? The oils make a difference first to slow down trace. More water means that blending might take longer but not if certain oils are used than trace will come faster. The water needs to be dispersed thoroughly otherwise soda ash develops. A good example would be ghosting a bar of soap. Now as for the last part of what you said, I can't really relate until I know your "water discount". I say that because some people refer to a great discount of water and it turned out that I use less than they do! Go figure? I used to have the bright idea of using less water = more oil and lye to turn into soap. I thought everything was going good and when I say less water I mean less water. If my recipe called for 14 ounces of lye I used 14 ounces of water. Maybe 14.5 ounces. Than one day I found a bar I had made a year earlier. It had cracked like an earthquake. It didnt take me long to realize it was the high short heat. There is one more peculiar difference I relate it to altitude differences (just like boiling water maybe?). No matter the recipe, single oil or multi oil, all of my soaps stop losing weight after a year. Between 8 months and 12 months their is a very small difference but it is there.
The rumors of sliminess is why I chose to make a Bastille rather than a Castile soap. I use olive pomace at 80%, babassu at 17%, and castor at 3%. I like using sodium lactate and occasionally I'll use sea salt in the lye instead of sodium lactate to make it easier to unmold. It is nice and gentle still too, but I'd imagine a true Castile would be even better... I just don't have the room in my home to store 10-12 (or more) soaps for a year.
I tend to know roughly what it will weigh when I cut it, but I do weigh it before sale, then they all get labeled, advertised and sold at the weight of the smallest bar once cured, so all of the bars will typically have more soap that the advertised and labeled weight.
@@IDreamInSoap I think what the person above meant was that you saved one bar to test the lather at different cure times and another bar to weigh to see how much water was evaporating over time. You didn't follow through on that.
I'm wanting to place a soap order still eventually. Do you sell by the whole loaf? If I'm going to have it exported to USA, buying just one bar seems silly. Do you take custom orders if we do buy the whole loaf?
Ooh that soap looks lovely and creamy. I noticed it lightened up over time, going more white, and the hint of green it originally had seemed to fade. As always, a great, and informative video, thanks for sharing.
There is another video out there somewhere of castiles, all same recipe, but made in different batches over a year and the colour difference is so interesting
Using a brine (turning it into a Soleseife castile) for your water actually does make it fantastic in 6-8 weeks. I make them regularly. They are my best sellers. Absolutely no slime/snot, and a wonderful minimalistic bubble lather. Really there is no one right answer when it comes to soaping. Small changes can make a big difference in the chemistry.
I've never tried that, so I guess it could work and I have no reason to doubt you. You are correct, changes in formula can make a difference, but then it stops the soap being what it's actually meant to be, a pure Castile soap, and that's completely OK if that's the soap you choose to make and sell and lets face it, if no-one made changes to things the world wouldn't move on and we wouldn't have all the wonderful varieties of things (everything, not just soap) that we do.
Can you share your recipe please?
Thank you so much for taking the time to film this over the year! The lather testing was great to see!!
Thanks so much Ellen, I'm so pleased you liked the lather tests.
Lisa you have opened my eyes to curing time for Castile Soap. I made some early on in my soap making a year ago, an Italian friend told me he loved it, and asked for more. Granted my bars were smaller than yours, but only cured for 1-3 months when I gave him some to try. I first used one the other day and it’s about 10months, no slime ok lather. But I have the second batch made and in a draw waiting on a visit from him, I think I’ll definitely keep 12 months now. That slime I read about is pretty off putting isn’t it but great demonstration Lisa. Thank you for the soaping research you do and show absolutely brilliant. Hope your safe from the two storms going through the UK and your UK followers.
Thank you so much, yes I do think it makes a difference. That's so lovely of you to keep the soap for your friend. Yes it's pretty windy here at the moment, but luckily ( hope I'm not tempting fate here) everything is OK so far.
Lisa, thank you so much for this video! I’ve been criticized by some so called ‘experts’ for curing my Castile soap for 12 months. You’ve just proven my point.
Lisa, has anyone ever said you have a perfect voice for doing Disney or animated films?
This was so informative! Thanks so much for taking a whole year for us to see these results!
Thank you so much, I'm so pleased you found it helpful
@@IDreamInSoap I'm interested to know about the weight changes over time.
I miss you last week, I want to thank you for your dedication to teaching, this is a beautiful demonstration, well done 👏
That's so kind of you to say Paty Gil , thank you so much 😊
I love Castile soap. I grew up in Italy and my grandma used to make huge batches of it every year. Thank you so much for sharing this very nice video.
Hi FranklyNaturalBeauty thank you so much for your very kind comment 😊
I'm curious about the water weight loss over the year. Did you manage to complete that second portion of your experiment?
Sorry Kat, I forgot to include that bit, yes they stopped losing weight after about 8 weeks, so the changes come about because of other things going on in the cure
@@IDreamInSoap that’s so interesting! Thanks for sharing.
First of all 21:07
As a Spanish teacher, I burst out laughing when I heard this bc I thought somehow my classroom Spanish song videos list go mixed in with my Soap videos list and I had a moment of "Where-am-I?!" That was the best!!
Also, your background for your intro is awesome!! Thanks for all the detailed info about Castille soap! It maybe very simple and plain, but it does take a lot of effort!
Hey Mansi, always so lovely to see you. He, he aw I'm so pleased you like the Spanish Happy Birthday
I did the same thing. I made a 60 bar batch and tested mine each month up to 13 months. I felt it was the only way for me to truly know when that soap would be ready to sell. super slimy and icky soap up to 10 months but ok soap after that. at 13 months it was amazing! I make it unscented with no color. I also make it into a rectangular 6.0 oz block due to shrinkage. I found 1" bars warp over time. I currently have some on hand and I also have activated charcoal castile soap as well. my to favorite.
I'm so glad you made this video. it is hard to express to people that this is in fact a soap that does need to cure the 12 months for a great bar; selling sooner really does it an injustice. Such a great experience and fun to see first hand how the water evaporation changes and crystallization results.
Thank you for making this video. I'm still at my experimental stage about making soaps. I am making Castile infused with herbs soaps right now. I concur with you about the wait time to cut it. My first Castile soap that I made this year, I waited two days and my husband could barely cut it with a knife. LOL I have waited up to a week with other soaps to cut a loaf with no problem.
I had read somewhere that certain people wait three to five years to cure their Castile soap. I said this in a Facebook group and got yelled at. lmao The women who only wanted to wait 6 to 8 weeks felt like I was attacking them for not waiting for a proper cure, when I wasn't.
The day you made your Laurel Berry Oil Soap, I had just made mine, I had thought to myself, I really wish I had watched Lisa's video before I did this. I had assumed the Laurel Berry would take a very long time just like castile takes a very long time to reach emulsion. Boy, was I wrong. I barely got mine in the mold.
Thank you again for all of your videos
Hey Vixen, yes the laurel berry does speed things up and I always think the cutting is surprising, it seems to make sense for castile that as its all liquid oils and takes so long to get to trace that you think it will take ages to unmould and cut, but I think it's easy to get caught out. Oh and yes I see so many of the 'my Castile is great after 6 weeks' posts :-)
If you use faux sea water in the lye mixture (instead of tap or distilled water) the soap comes to trace faster. Back in the day Castile soaps were made with sea water. I use faux sea water because there's no ocean near me and most coastal areas near civilization are very polluted these days. The salt makes the bars harder though so you have to cut them faster. Also they are a bit less slimey. See also "Zany's No Slime Castile" recipe.
Very fun experiment. I've only tried Castile soap once and I barely knew anything about making soap at that time. I should make a batch of it now that I've had some experience in the soap world. Great patience on the production of this video. I loved it!
That's so kind of you to say Shonna Soaps, thank you so much 😊
My kids inherited my skin, allergic to A LOT of things (even the cream doctors suggest for eczema beginning with an E and a couple of numbers) so I used this kind of soap, wonderful stuff and I have now found a UK seller, thanks Lisa, order placed!
Thank you so much 💓
Really enjoyed that 😁 I learn something new, every single time I watch one of your videos. Even if it’s not a soap I will make myself, there’s always a tip or trick I’ve learnt, thank you ☺️
That's so kind of you to say Jackie , thank you so much 😊
Love the dedication!
Wow! Thanks for doing this! Very informative and greatly appreciated. Also the Spanish happy birthday segment is maybe the best thing I've seen all day.
Wow! Such an amazing result. I was thinking that some of the comments about Castile soap was a bit exaggerated, but not anymore. Thank you for the time, effort and patience in your experiment, plus sharing the results.
Cheers 💕👍
Great video Lisa, my Castille took around 14 months to be able to get a good foamy lather, it was perfect after that time, I love a Castille soap. Thank you 🌈💐
Thank you for this video! Early on into soap making, I noticed that folks call their soap Castile even if there were more than one type of oil. When I asked about it, people got quite defensive. I chocked it up to the fact that I was a newbie and didn't know any better. Then I asked about a cure time and there was more ruffled feathers. I guess Castile soap is a sensitive topic. But I so appreciate this video that shows the difference in cure times and reaffirms what I believed to be true.
It's so strange how people get all funny isn't it, I think they just get a little defensive when they say something and someone corrects them, which is human nature
Well done with the stickiness Lisa.. I stumbled on to the long cure by chance , as clients did not buy them due to stickiness 😅😅 n yes i had forgotten the soaps. I was hoping you found a miraculous solution .. 😁😁. Thank you for the detailed video. . And the solution. I love the soap as i have Roseace.. so this is my go to soap ..
So very interesting! Such dedication to a topic, a video spanning a year! Thanks so much for sharing, very helpful!! 😊
How does the lye smell before mixing in with the olive oil? Is the smell strong?
Welcome back! Fascinating video. The snotty soap... Yuck!
He, he, yes it's pretty grim isn't it :-)
Love how Castile soap makes the skin feel but the slim is something else.
When i make castile soap
I use two stick blenders (super cheap ones $15 each) as soon as one starts to feel warm, set it down pick up the other
Yes, that's a great way to do it, but it can take some work to get it blended can't it
Appreciate ur full description of curing times. I offen see/read "dos & don't dos" but seldom get a full explanation and visual comparison. Thx u🌷
Thank you for the time lapse on the curing. Very interesting and hopeful. Wait the year people. Haha. Loved the video 💕
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks so much Lori
Great informative video. I make soaps too, my base is olive oil and coconut oil and sometimes i add cocoa butter. Normally I let it cure for 6 weeks. I'll try this experiment with only olive oil, thank you for your video.
-Fabrizia from Panama City, Panama.
Btw. where did you buy your soap cutter? its amazing!
This is so super helpful for new soap makers, you’re a great teacher as well as a great soap architect/engineer/artist! 😊🎉
😉
I have olive oil, but it is already expired, can I still use it to make soap?
You are my soap teacher! I always learn from you thanks
Very useful, thank you! I noticed that your soap at the beginning was greenish, but the soap later was cream color. I just finish making my first batch of castile soap, and it looks green like the olive oil I used. Will it turn to a cream color too? Thak you.
It is probably likely to go a paler colour
Out of a 12 bar batch that I make (when I actually do make castile soap) maybe only 2 live long enough to get to the 1 year mark. Stuff is amazing though.
Lisa it was really nice of you to film this soap,can you tell me about superfat in this soap ?
Yes oil soap is greasy/slimy because it’s basically emulsifying grease from the soap and from your hand combining both and being flushed off
I guess it could be compared to the evaporation of water off our skin giving that weird “wet” feeling
Castile soap loses that slimy feeling if cured properly and other soaps with a recipe balanced with other oils won't be slimy either
تسلم ايديك حبيبتي دائما متألقه كنت حابه اقولك ياريت تكتبي وزن الزيوت بالجرامات ووزن الغسول الماء ثم هيدروكسيد الصوديوم شكراً جزيلاً لك متابعتك من مصر
Thank you for this video. I’m going to be making my first Castile soap & I love the water discount you talked about & will be trying this recipe. 😊
Hi @cheriegildart thank you so much for your very kind comment 😊
Thank you good information!
Thank you so much Susie, that's very kind of you.
Did the color of your soap get lighter as the year progressed or was that just the lighting? And thank you for sharing. I do so enjoy learning from you.
It's interesting. We primarily use olive oil as we are in Cyprus and have our own olive trees. We also use older oil, or oil that isn't used for eating, i.e. the oil at the bottom of the vat. We also don't have dry lye here, it's ready mixed. We don't have lengthy curing or stirring. The older the oil, the quicker it emulsifies.
Wow. Thank you for that it was really interesting
Buna!Daca folosesti CASTILLA SOAP peste un an ,exista posibilitatea sa RANCEZEASCA ?Ce sFAT se aplica sapunului de Castilla ?Multumesc !
Oh, nu, nu va rămâne învechit, doar se îmbunătățește cu vârsta, îl poți lăsa ani de zile și va fi minunat
Lisa, an amazing experiment! I kindly envy your patience))
Gosh, this video gave me a great idea! I started a soap business this year to sell soap specifically to raise money for charity, and a dear friend gifted me a beautiful silicone mold of a sleeping kitten that makes adorable soaps. This video has me thinking I should make some “catstille” soaps to sell for the animal shelter where I volunteer 😄 I do love a good pun!
AW I see what you did there :-)
l learned sooooo many things from your amazing channel...thank you soooooooo much....really you are the best in the world of soap
Thank you so much 😀
Excellent video, super well done and highly informative.
Another lovely and very appreciated video!!!
Sending sunshine and warmth from Orlando Florida 🧡💛🧡💛🧡💛🧡
A lovely looking soap 😍
Hi Shannon thank you so much for your very kind comment 😊
This was so helpful. Thank you for the demonstration.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you so much 💓
Love seeing the soap through its stages! Snotty soap certainly was something different! 😂
He, he, I know, isn't it grim, could you imagine getting all covered with that in the shower and then the doorbell ringing and having to grab a towel and dash to open it. I have no clue why my brain when there, but I just had a vision on a Castile slime covered person answering the door to the postman :-)
Hehe that would be a difficult one to explain!!
Lisa, just a quick one... Is it OK if I use pomace olive oil instead of extra virgin? The cost difference is significant here in India (almost 3 times)
Yes, it would be OK, it should come to trace quite a bit quicker
So glad you’re back this week, glad you’re ok. My weekend starts right when I get a dose of soap making!
08:30. 🤯
10:10. 🤩
19:30. 🤢
It’s interesting seeing how Castille deals with the ageing process, but it makes me ponder the question… does regular IDIS cold process soap handle differently with age? For those stashing the beautiful bars away to scent their undies drawer, does there come a point bars don’t lather so well? (I can’t keep a bar of soap that long myself😶🌫️)
He, he that snotty soap is funny isn't it. As far as I've seen normal soap still continues to bubble and lather really well. I do actually keep some old soap so that I can monitor it's performance, make sure it's stable, doesn't get DOS etc, but it's still great even after a few years
@@IDreamInSoap Lisa I think the snotty soap is both funny and disgusting in equal measures 😆 I’m gonna have to work out the vagaries of science behind this as it is fascinating.
Thank you for undertaking this long term project.
Where did you get your dish pan you're washing your hands?
You are so generous and brilliant. Thank you!
Bonjour, le savon de Castille est connu pour pas mousser beaucoup mais il lave bien et hydrate bien aussi. Par contre le temps de cure est connu pour être long jusqu' à 7 mois voir 1 an. Le savon de Marseille mousse plus car il a de l'huile de Coco à 25%. Ma grand mère en faisait souvent cs 2 savons. Merci pour vos vidéo
Oui, vous avez tout à fait raison, il donnera une mousse correcte après une belle cure longue. L'ajout d'huile de coco augmentera certes les bulles, mais rendra le savon un peu plus asséchant sur la peau.
I loved the experiment! That visual really does help with keeping me from doing anything reckless LOL - I just checked SM3 - 345 days until ready! Thanks Lisa! 💖
345 days until ready 🤣. That made me LOL. Im at about 360 days until ready atm
Great video. I appreciate your dedication.
I appreciate that!
shame it lost the beautiful colour i'm wondering if the Laurel Berry you made will also loose it's colour? Well it's pretty clear you have a good size of olive oil but what amount of grms are your lye and water please because i wouldn't have a clue how to figure it out? or if i use your Laurel Berry recipe which was 700 grms of olive oil the lye and water wouldnt be the same would they? thank you
Thank you so much for doing this video, it's exactly what I had been wanting to see. I appreciate you so much. Everything you make is gorgeous!
You are so welcome!
Thanks for taking the time to create this video. I've never made a castile soap before but I do want to try. Question, do you think if sugar is added to the lye solution would increase bubbles as it does for non castile soaps?
It does :) I add simple syrup, 2cups sugar to 1cup boiled distilled water, and then I use it at about 2tsp ppo... my castile lathered at 24 hrs but its still slimy, I cant wait to try it at a couple weeks, months and then a year and maybe 2
Fascinating video, thank you!
Have you come across "Zany's No Slime Castile" recipe? It uses faux sea water made by adding specific amounts of sea salt and bicarb to distilled water. Seriously cuts down on both the snottiness and cure time. Someone has made a video of it here on UA-cam, with links to the original. I'd love to see you try it Lisa!
I've tried a Castile with real sea water, and really like it after just 2 months cure. Not a lot of lather, but sufficient and very creamy and gentle.
Something about soap made from sea water just sounds so delightfully whimsical! I must try this!
Ooh no, I haven't seen this at all, I may go and have a look
Going to ck out! Ty
Feeling rather queasy after the snot demo.
Very educational
Yay Lisa!!! I missed you last week!! Xx
AW, sorry, everything is just so madly busy at the moment, which is great, and it got to the point where something had to give.
cant stand slimey anything so ill avoid tis but very interesting to see the progression looked better at the end. 6 week part looked awful.
He, he, yes Castile wouldn't be the soap for you
Hi Lisa, I have a possibly silly question: you said this is made of only one type of oil, which is usually olive oil. Can you use different types of oil as well? What if you used an oil like coconut that’s kind of solid at room temperature, would that allow for more bubbles than using olive oil?
I really like your new background at the start of the video as well! 😁 maybe you could try marketing the snotty soap as a spider man themed web soap haha
100% coconut oil soaps are commonly used as solid dish and laundry soaps, so you can definitely make soap with just coconut. I’ve never made a coconut only soap for use on skin (I use one for my dishes and it works great!) but I’ve seen others recommend to do a hefty super fat (like, 20% kind of hefty!) to avoid stripping too much moisture out of the skin.
As for the name “Castile”, I’m almost certain it only applies to olive oil soap. I believe I read somewhere that “bastile” was created to refer to soaps that were a bastardization of Castile soap lol.
Hi, certainly you can use any oils you like, but then they wouldn't be a Castile soaps. I think Castile soaps are something that some people love and some don't. I personally prefer a lovely bubbly soap, but then I don't have particularly sensitive skin, so that's where Castile comes in, it is very very mild
@@katelillo1932 ooh I see, thank you for the reply! :) I didn’t know that people made 100% coconut oil soap
@@IDreamInSoap thank you for replying! I also prefer soap to have more bubbles :)
@@bread9028 a 10% coconut oil to the olive oil will give you the bubbles they are call bastille bars or adding sugar to the water is also suppose to give you bubbles
Super interesting! Thank you ❤️
I always learn something new from you!
Great video! If I decide to fragrance the soap should I leave it out for a whole year or should I put it away like in a box in order to protect it from loosing the perfume? Thanks
The castile soap will still need a full year cure, so make sure you choose a fragrance that stays well in the soap
Bonjour Lisa😊 J’adore la manière que vous expliquer step by step de faire un savon! Le bonnet d’anniversaire montre votre humour 🎉😄🎉 J’attends toujours avec impatience vos vidéos qui sont toujours uniques! J’espère qu’un jour je serais capable de réaliser des savons comme vous! Une merveilleuse journée et merci à vous⭐️
This Castel soap, the type of soap that you use to grade up to make laundry detergent?
Great video Lisa. Thank you. No COPING my soap in the house stove. My wife just doesn't understand 😕
Thanks Michael, wrapping in towels and just putting in a warm area can do the trick too
Bonsoir vous faites chauffer l huile d olive? Et niveau surgraissage et concentration vous mettez combien merci
Salut, non j'utilise l'huile d'olive à température ambiante et je fais un surgras à 5% dans le savon
@@IDreamInSoap et pour la concentration 40% ? Merci ils ont magnifique
Would it be too cheeky to ask where you source your Olive oil? Havering between organic and non organic from the Soapery. Thankyou as ever for your info packed videos..
Hey Nicole, I just use Olive oil from Lidl
Lidl has one up on Aldi then! Off in search of one!!
Really useful, helpful and veeery interesting!
That's so kind of you to say atinemassare, thank you so much 😊
Im adding 5% coconut and 5% palm or castor oil.
Truly never liked casitle soap no matter how long the cure. And as you've confirmed her, it definitely needs a good, long cure.
I must admit, Its not a favourite of mine, but it does have its place and some people won't use anything else because its so super mild, but I'm with you, it wouldn't be the 1st bar I would pick up.
I love being childish 😃thank you for demonstrating over a years time, wow what a difference 🙏🏼
That's so kind of you to say Melissa , thank you so much, oh and yes, there's nothing wrong with being all childish now and again😊
I don’t make a true Castile soap. Personally, the slime is not off putting to me. I add 5% Castor oil and sugar and Salt. I love this for my face. I may even add a linoleic oil or just use it as a leave on ( which is better) Safflower, Sunflower, Hemp seed oil!
That sound lovely and it's always nice to alter a recipe to fit your needs, that's they way we learn about soap and it's properties
Thank you so much, it was great
Thank you so much Sanaz , that's very kind of you.
Very informative!
what was the recipe you used?
Can you give an approximate time for the stick blending? Is it 10 min, 30, an hour? Looking to make some Castile and want to be prepared.
It's quite a while, I would say something like 30-40 minutes, but it will vary on the power of your stick blender and the batch size, this was a batch of 5kg of oils, a smaller amount would be quicker.
@@IDreamInSoap thank you so much
Perfect!
Thank you so much 💓
Thanks to you love from India
Thanks, love from the UK
I made this soap with a very steep water discount to cut the curing time.
But the water isn't the issue with this soap, mine has a super deep water discount too, it definitely continues to change for months after it stops losing water
Over the years of making soap I've kept notes on weight loss on many bars of soap and I've learned a couple of things that apply to water discounting. If you don't mind I'd like to tell you.
I've made soap with the lowest discount you can go (thats for another story) and I've also made soap with a water/lye discount of 52%/48% many times and I've kept records of those.
At other times I have put more water in it and have kept records of those.
I started seeing anomalies I didn't expect....
Soap, no matter the recipe, cures at varying rates. I also found that soap with more water can and will lose weight faster then soap made with less water (I thought the same as you here). Soap can average anywhere from .1 grams to .3 grams of loss per day. Soap is like concrete. In the initial stages the heat may rise as high as 200 degrees with an extreme water discount but it doesn't last very long. The heat will fizzle out faster. I don't know why but later on in that soaps lifetime, even a year later, the soap can and will crack because of that high short heat.
I finally figured out why some soaps were curing faster. The lesser water requires less stick blending or what could be considered as less sufficient stickblending and it turns out that soaps that I have blended more thoroughly actually lost weight faster then soaps with less stick blending.
My conclusion was extreme water discounting can lead to cracking soap and lose water at a lower rate per day
then soap with a greater content of water but is blended more thoroughly.
@@iwannaapple7190 I don't do a water discount in an attempt to lose water quicker or cure quicker and yes, I agree if you have more water to start it will, of course, lose more water faster in the early stages, that's not my reason for the water discount. I water discount my soaps because if you use a high amount of water the bars can actually distort when they cure and lose the excess water. Not putting it in in the 1st place prevents that. Also, the extra water discount I use for the Castile soap isn't anything to do with curing as the water loss was complete well before the full year cure. I do it because olive oil doesn't like too much water and if too much is added the oil and water can actually separate. Also with it being such a basic recipe with no complicated design etc there is no need for excess to try to keep the batter fluid for the design element.
The concept of less water needs less stick blending I find not to be the case, in fact, I have specifically done tests to see if a soap with less water comes to emulsion quicker than a soap with more and found over numerous tests where everything was equal apart from a difference in water, that the higher water soap will be emulsified sooner. This is because a less viscous liquid will actually be mixed more when it's blended than a thicker liquid as a thinner (more water) liquid will move more when the blender is applied.
@@IDreamInSoap
I actually think the term water discount is a bit confusing. To me, everything after a 50/50 ratio is called adding water. What would your typical "water discount" be so I can understand your approach better?
I was never really focusing on the water amount. My focus was toward the amount of time used stick blending. It turned out that blending well played a bigger role in water loss than I previously thought. "Loose" water that was not blended quite as well tended to take longer to evaporate.
And I can confirm that misshapen bar. My very first recipe said to use 2.5x water than lye. Still have that bar but the sides did shrink in.
As for time blending to get a trace--Must be altitude differences??
The oils make a difference first to slow down trace. More water means that blending might take longer but not if certain oils are used than trace will come faster. The water needs to be dispersed thoroughly otherwise soda ash develops. A good example would be ghosting a bar of soap.
Now as for the last part of what you said, I can't really relate until I know your "water discount". I say that because some people refer to a great discount of water and it turned out that I use less than they do! Go figure?
I used to have the bright idea of using less water = more oil and lye to turn into soap. I thought everything was going good and when I say less water I mean less water. If my recipe called for 14 ounces of lye I used 14 ounces of water. Maybe 14.5 ounces. Than one day I found a bar I had made a year earlier. It had cracked like an earthquake. It didnt take me long to realize it was the high short heat.
There is one more peculiar difference I relate it to altitude differences (just like boiling water maybe?). No matter the recipe, single oil or multi oil, all of my soaps stop losing weight after a year. Between 8 months and 12 months their is a very small difference but it is there.
curious why you you don't include your recipe and temps.
The recipe is included
The rumors of sliminess is why I chose to make a Bastille rather than a Castile soap. I use olive pomace at 80%, babassu at 17%, and castor at 3%. I like using sodium lactate and occasionally I'll use sea salt in the lye instead of sodium lactate to make it easier to unmold. It is nice and gentle still too, but I'd imagine a true Castile would be even better... I just don't have the room in my home to store 10-12 (or more) soaps for a year.
awesome 😍
That's so kind of you to say Ιώ Αμαδρυάς, thank you so much 😊
Did you weigh the soap?
I tend to know roughly what it will weigh when I cut it, but I do weigh it before sale, then they all get labeled, advertised and sold at the weight of the smallest bar once cured, so all of the bars will typically have more soap that the advertised and labeled weight.
@@IDreamInSoap I think what the person above meant was that you saved one bar to test the lather at different cure times and another bar to weigh to see how much water was evaporating over time. You didn't follow through on that.
loooove you...hello from Denmark
Hello and thanks from the UK!
21:48 no one elsecaught the Pretty Woman reference...?😥
Ooh, not even me - must go and have a look
I'm wanting to place a soap order still eventually. Do you sell by the whole loaf? If I'm going to have it exported to USA, buying just one bar seems silly. Do you take custom orders if we do buy the whole loaf?
Lisa? I'm serious about this order. Hope you're doing well. COV going around again here.
Debate ended.
Ooh that soap looks lovely and creamy. I noticed it lightened up over time, going more white, and the hint of green it originally had seemed to fade. As always, a great, and informative video, thanks for sharing.
There is another video out there somewhere of castiles, all same recipe, but made in different batches over a year and the colour difference is so interesting