This is what I do, too. Sometimes I do pre-sand the live edge if it looks like the PC Petrifier cured on the surface, or more often I don’t use the PC Petrifier on that edge but just soak from the top and the bottom.
Thanks! How long is the cure time for a piece that big before you should epoxy? And can you let the pc petrifier sit and cure on the piece of over a week or two before you epoxy? Thank you!
That's why I was searching these types of videos. I'm going to try the polyurethane as a sealer on plain pine then pour an epoxy flood coat. I'm really just trying to keep my costs down!😂 what do you think?
I've used many other products as well as poly and it's been my experience that PC Petrifier works the best. If there was something better, I'd be using it
exactly what I was looking for. I tried using epoxy and it was a fail. I use very rotten wood and bring it to life with epoxy resin. I think this is going to help me out tremendously.
Have you used this on bark on a river table? I've always read you have to remove the bark when making a river table as it will be a weak point and will separate if you don't. Will PC petrifier fix that?
hey there great video! i have the exact same problem with the slabs im working with right now very punky, spalting beech wood. however for our certain situation, me personally, i would advise using something like total boat penetrating epoxy to seap into that punky wood to strengthen the wood. the piece you showed being really weak isnt gonna be strenghtend to the extent with the pc pour as much as the penetrating. but for regular wood that is not punky, i think your method using this pc product is a great way! also saves money since the epoxy can be expensive.
Actually, PC Petrifier will penetrate deeper than total boat pentrating epoxy and it still allows other epoxy to penetrate and chemically bond to the wood. I've tried many other "penetrating" epoxies and nothing works as good as PC Petrifier.
@@fjelstednord3159 yes it penetrates deeper but you need strength with the epoxy, you can thin out the epoxy with an aray of different chemicals, it works decently well. i will say if you could use a combination of this PC, and then a "top coat" of penetrating epoxy more on the top part of the wood i think thatd be best. especially for this punky wood type of project
I'm also in that Facebook group. Most manufactors actually suggest seal coating with their epoxy. They prefer you buy their seal coat product, but they also say a thin coat of regular epoxy is fine. That's where it comes from FYI. I've never heard of doing what you're doing to seal it, but I'm gonna look into it now. Don't use dewaxxed shellac like i did. It seems to melt from the heat of the epoxy and/or heat gun!
I see this works good on punky wood. What about a white oak table top that is in great shape and freshly sanded to bare wood? The mfgr of the epoxy doesn't see how this applies to normal wood. They say use epoxy to seal and maybe polycrylic as an alternate.
But if you pre-seal the edges with epoxy you only wait until it's tacky but not fully cured. That will get it into the pores of the wood yet still get a chemical bond with the main epoxy pour. Am I wrong?
I see more the epoxy seal coat as a means to stop micro bubbles vs stabilizing the wood. With the pools still open, this isn’t providing that function. This would work for the black regular jobs, but not the clear art pieces, especially for turning bowls.
How do you figure? The point is to stabilize and harden the wood so epoxy can still penetrate and chemically bond to the wood fibers. Epoxy as a pre-sealer prevents that.
No, I disagree. If he hadn’t posted this video, I would’ve made a mistake with my wood carving. I’m grateful for this video. It’s not apples to oranges. It’s a better way to do some thing.
Are you both sure the epoxy is chemically bonding with the pre-sealer or is the pre-sealer preventing the epoxy from penetrating and bonding with the wood fibers? Epoxy does not need to penetrate deeply to make a good bond with the wood. With all the epoxy/wood projects I’ve done, it penetrates deeply enough to provide great adhesion while preventing degassing of the wood while curing. It also depends on the type and viscosity of the epoxy you use for the sealing step. Simply increasing the temperature of the epoxy before sealing changes the viscosity and enables it to penetrate a bit better. Did a table with 125yo barnwood earlier this year. A lot of rot and soft wood. Pre-treat the worst spots with an epoxy / acetone mix, then seal the rest with epoxy.
Thank you. You just saved me a lot of money.
This is what I do, too. Sometimes I do pre-sand the live edge if it looks like the PC Petrifier cured on the surface, or more often I don’t use the PC Petrifier on that edge but just soak from the top and the bottom.
Thanks! How long is the cure time for a piece that big before you should epoxy? And can you let the pc petrifier sit and cure on the piece of over a week or two before you epoxy? Thank you!
Does your product reduce/prevent bubbles? Wouldn’t diluted polyurethane do the same thing?
That's why I was searching these types of videos. I'm going to try the polyurethane as a sealer on plain pine then pour an epoxy flood coat. I'm really just trying to keep my costs down!😂 what do you think?
just gathering other people's thoughts.@@victormcox
I've used many other products as well as poly and it's been my experience that PC Petrifier works the best. If there was something better, I'd be using it
exactly what I was looking for. I tried using epoxy and it was a fail. I use very rotten wood and bring it to life with epoxy resin. I think this is going to help me out tremendously.
Have you used this on bark on a river table? I've always read you have to remove the bark when making a river table as it will be a weak point and will separate if you don't. Will PC petrifier fix that?
Thank you for the info!
Most definitely!
hey there great video! i have the exact same problem with the slabs im working with right now very punky, spalting beech wood.
however for our certain situation, me personally, i would advise using something like total boat penetrating epoxy to seap into that punky wood to strengthen the wood. the piece you showed being really weak isnt gonna be strenghtend to the extent with the pc pour as much as the penetrating.
but for regular wood that is not punky, i think your method using this pc product is a great way! also saves money since the epoxy can be expensive.
Actually, PC Petrifier will penetrate deeper than total boat pentrating epoxy and it still allows other epoxy to penetrate and chemically bond to the wood. I've tried many other "penetrating" epoxies and nothing works as good as PC Petrifier.
@@fjelstednord3159 yes it penetrates deeper but you need strength with the epoxy, you can thin out the epoxy with an aray of different chemicals, it works decently well. i will say if you could use a combination of this PC, and then a "top coat" of penetrating epoxy more on the top part of the wood i think thatd be best. especially for this punky wood type of project
If you color the epoxy, will the color bleed since the pours are left open?
Great information makes a lot of sense
very helpful. well done and thank you!
Have you tried total boat penetrating/sealer epoxy resin? It is less viscous than the table top epoxy and soaks into the wood.
I'm also in that Facebook group. Most manufactors actually suggest seal coating with their epoxy. They prefer you buy their seal coat product, but they also say a thin coat of regular epoxy is fine. That's where it comes from FYI. I've never heard of doing what you're doing to seal it, but I'm gonna look into it now. Don't use dewaxxed shellac like i did. It seems to melt from the heat of the epoxy and/or heat gun!
You recommend sanding after the pc petrifier or do you just go straight to the pour?
I see this works good on punky wood. What about a white oak table top that is in great shape and freshly sanded to bare wood? The mfgr of the epoxy doesn't see how this applies to normal wood. They say use epoxy to seal and maybe polycrylic as an alternate.
But if you pre-seal the edges with epoxy you only wait until it's tacky but not fully cured. That will get it into the pores of the wood yet still get a chemical bond with the main epoxy pour. Am I wrong?
In the case you were surrounding a fully burnt slab with epoxy, how would you personally go about that? This is obviously a plan on mine.
Basically the same way. Saturate the charred wood with PC Petrifier, let it cure, then proceed with the epoxy
I use water based polyurethane to seal or a marine product
Can you still stain the wood after you petrified it?
I've never tried it as I won't stain woods that I'm using for epoxy projects.
@@fjelstednord3159 thank you for getting back to me. I ordered some of this so I'll call the company. Lovely piece you had there!! Thank you!
Fantastic 🎉 thanks for sharing!!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
I have never used PC Petrifyier... What does that do to help or hinder natural finishes like Odies, Osmo, or Rubio?
Did my answer in Epoxy Enthusiasts help?
@@fjelstednord3159not for the rest of us
I see more the epoxy seal coat as a means to stop micro bubbles vs stabilizing the wood. With the pools still open, this isn’t providing that function. This would work for the black regular jobs, but not the clear art pieces, especially for turning bowls.
TY!
Oh SURE ! Now ya tell me....! 😂
Thanks
Comparing apples to oranges with this test.
How do you figure? The point is to stabilize and harden the wood so epoxy can still penetrate and chemically bond to the wood fibers. Epoxy as a pre-sealer prevents that.
No, I disagree. If he hadn’t posted this video, I would’ve made a mistake with my wood carving. I’m grateful for this video. It’s not apples to oranges. It’s a better way to do some thing.
@@fjelstednord3159 so glad you posted this saved me from ruining my wood carving
Are you both sure the epoxy is chemically bonding with the pre-sealer or is the pre-sealer preventing the epoxy from penetrating and bonding with the wood fibers? Epoxy does not need to penetrate deeply to make a good bond with the wood. With all the epoxy/wood projects I’ve done, it penetrates deeply enough to provide great adhesion while preventing degassing of the wood while curing. It also depends on the type and viscosity of the epoxy you use for the sealing step. Simply increasing the temperature of the epoxy before sealing changes the viscosity and enables it to penetrate a bit better. Did a table with 125yo barnwood earlier this year. A lot of rot and soft wood. Pre-treat the worst spots with an epoxy / acetone mix, then seal the rest with epoxy.
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get too the point god