Measuring and focusing on numbers will result in more climbers that are stronger on the various pieces of equipment (per some arbitrary database). The association with some level of route difficulty will give people the impression that they need to be stronger to achieve some level of route difficulty. Despite the caveats about technique and experience, the result that people will train relatively more than they need to in relation to the amount that they climb.
Nice video! That lattice test is really extensive, more than what we see on their channel! But I'm curious, I'm missing one single metric that for me it's the most important! But it might be because it's what holds me back. Did you test critical force? I've started training one year ago (but I did climb in plastic as a child), and the 9C test gives me like 8c+/9A, while I'm only onsighting 6c+. That could be that I'm just bad, but I think my technique is good (enough), my flexibility is sh*et, but at this grade that's not a big deal, and my tryhard is great. For me my handicap has been endurance, which I don't think it's really tested on the 9C test. I finally bought a Tindeq, and on the critical force test, I pull harder than Stefano G. for the 3 first sets; at the set 12 I'm already on 15Kg which is my critical force. Stefano can keep pulling 40kg like for ever, I think that matters the most, over max hang, max pullups, and power endurance. But that might apply only to me. Tom Randal told you to project a sustained route, which for sure is a good advice, max hang is not your strength but critical force might be... But I want numbers! :P
Hi @buddie5720 Thanks for your comment. It truly was an extensive test and very fun. I didn't have a tindeq available and I am not sure many people would have one at easy accessibility, so I am guessing that's why it's not included in the test. Although I am not the expert there :) Perhaps a good question to ask Lattice themselves. Sounds like you have huge room to grow, which is awesome - Good luck with your climbing!!
Loving these videos!!!!
Wow what a huge range of tests !! I’m exhausted just watching it 😅
Hahahaha total
Interesting and nice video Penny!
Gracias ❤️
Measuring and focusing on numbers will result in more climbers that are stronger on the various pieces of equipment (per some arbitrary database). The association with some level of route difficulty will give people the impression that they need to be stronger to achieve some level of route difficulty. Despite the caveats about technique and experience, the result that people will train relatively more than they need to in relation to the amount that they climb.
Thanks for the comment. Your definitely right about the importance of technique, there’s likely a fine balance between the two.👌
I think both makes a big difference
Nice video!
That lattice test is really extensive, more than what we see on their channel! But I'm curious, I'm missing one single metric that for me it's the most important! But it might be because it's what holds me back. Did you test critical force?
I've started training one year ago (but I did climb in plastic as a child), and the 9C test gives me like 8c+/9A, while I'm only onsighting 6c+. That could be that I'm just bad, but I think my technique is good (enough), my flexibility is sh*et, but at this grade that's not a big deal, and my tryhard is great. For me my handicap has been endurance, which I don't think it's really tested on the 9C test.
I finally bought a Tindeq, and on the critical force test, I pull harder than Stefano G. for the 3 first sets; at the set 12 I'm already on 15Kg which is my critical force. Stefano can keep pulling 40kg like for ever, I think that matters the most, over max hang, max pullups, and power endurance. But that might apply only to me.
Tom Randal told you to project a sustained route, which for sure is a good advice, max hang is not your strength but critical force might be... But I want numbers! :P
Hi @buddie5720 Thanks for your comment. It truly was an extensive test and very fun. I didn't have a tindeq available and I am not sure many people would have one at easy accessibility, so I am guessing that's why it's not included in the test. Although I am not the expert there :) Perhaps a good question to ask Lattice themselves. Sounds like you have huge room to grow, which is awesome - Good luck with your climbing!!
50% load means 40kg counterweight? .... 50% of your maxhang or bodyweight? ~ 8:50
Hi, the calculation used is (your weight kgs + MaxHang kgs)*The load 0.5
Venga Penny! I recommend this great 8a called Sera nocturn, Tom Pillow would agree with me that it's a great route 😂
🫶 I’m not sure your recommendations can be trusted 😅
Cómo que position 3 en los hombros jajaja position 1 como una casa
🤣🤣
when he said position 3 i actually gasped.
Me too. Shock horror!