Well from here on my couch that looked a little scary, but your attack with the saw seemed well thought out. I don't know if it was the right way or not, but you looked confident and it made sense to me. I appreciate you taking the time to post these.
And fighting a snake. You have to have the reflexes of a mongoose. You can do everything Wright then boom things go wrong. Dangerous work, dangerous tools. It's just a matter of time. It's like riding a motorcycle.
This is an excellent video because many people can use this knowledge and frankly this knowledge can save lives. Thank you sir, well done. For those that are not experienced fellers, ask yourself can you gain experience without injury. Before attempting anything like this understand your situation will be different because there are no two trees the same. Sometimes you need to know when it’s time to walk away or get help, get other opinions or hire a professional. Do you understand compression and tension? Not understanding these forces will get you in trouble immediately. Do you understand why he made his cut diagonally to the tree and vertically to the ground? In some situations like this, the moral of the story is learn and live not live and learn.
This is a great video. I am an amateur and doing more tree work on land I own and helping a friend on their farm. We have a lot of hung trees. I figured the same approach out on my own. However, I did notice the diagonal cut, perpendicular to the ground...why is that? Help me understand. Thanks! Joe
@@armedveteran42 One 65 foot red oak is now in about 50 pieces 20" long laying on the ground . Today we cut , tomorrow we split ! My cutting is all in heavy deciduous forest (southern Ozark Plateau) and hangups are common . Sometimes it's hard to tell which way the tree is stressed , can make life interesting ...
Thank you for the video. From all the ones I've watched, I can see tree cutting without being injured or destroying equipment/property is both an art and a science, and I picked up several good tips here.
That tip while cutting the limb around the 10:00 minute mark was excellent. Thank you. Didn’t expect it to twist that violently. Make the second cut downhill from the 1st. Very nice 👍🏼
I've got a tree in a similar situation. It's a dead ash that has fallen inbetween to trunks. Tried pulling with the tractor (too heavy and just digs in even further) so we left it hoping the other ash would come down in another storm. 3 years later it's still holding up... i think this wedge technique could help us. Very useful explanation.
I appreciate seeing the right tools for the job and your experience to handle this safely. Good teacher. Tension and compression are good to teach for sure. I've been cutting smaller trees for years without all the understanding your teaching. Very helpful thank you.
This was the first video of yours that was recommended and I have revisited several times just to refresh my mind, very kind that you are willing to take time and explain this type of thing to keep others safe 💪
There are many ways, but each video is one take, and then I have to find another tree! Thanks for watching and commenting! Holler if you come through Southern Illinois! Merry Christmas!
Good title Great lessons! I've known individuals- Die cutting down a simple hanging limb, I'm by far not the best or most experienced with chainsaw usage, I'm always overly cautious & conservative when considering my ability level & what I'm comfortable tackling. Recognizing the potential hazards is key to survival.
Great to hear! Here is a recent video showing a leaner that is not snagged up top. When you make that bore cut, release the trigger before you pull the saw out so you don't blow out your hinge. Shoot some videos and show us your projects!ua-cam.com/video/dsmd96sgn9A/v-deo.html
i would have used a different method to release the compression with kerfs and then under cut, but the methodology you used is good and your aware of future movement...good job
the entrance to the subdivision behind my property is lined with bradford pear trees about 20-25 years old. when there are high winds or ice the large limbs sometimes break and usually fall on my property. I give the HOA 72 hrs to remove the limbs if they fail to do so I get my tractor and a chain and pull them out in the road and block one lane of the entrance and then they disappear within 24 hours. I am not a part of the subdivision but I call my action neighborly encouragement. it works every time.
I'd vary just slightly - the first time 72hrs notice, subsequently 36hrs - by then they know who they're calling and that arborist knows what to expect.
Thank you. I've got heck of a lot of old dead leaners in my woods which I wasn't going to touch until I got better educated. This is the information I was looking for!
Thank you very much for making this video. I have fallen trees and want to be safe when cutting. I'm new to a chainsaw, so that lesson at the end was a life saver. I always watch videos here before I go cutting anything. I'm not ready to take down trees myself, but want to cut fallen trees that are on the ground already. Some are still leaning exactly like this one in your video. I will go buy a wedge, so I can cut safely, like you showed us here. Thanks again for taking time to make a video.
I recently brought down a dying birch that was very close to my house. I roped it off up high, did a proper bench cut and brought it down okay. The main thing about tackling big trees is to give it LOTS of thought before starting. Nice video, thanks.
I, too, used the rope technique successfully while falling hemlock and yellow cedar on our lot in SE Alaska. I tied a string to a weight and tossed it over some high branches, then pulled a rope up and around the tree, fastened the other end of the long rope to the hitch on our truck, and pulled tension on the tree before doing the stump cuts. All the trees fell exactly where we wanted them and no one got hurt.
I have to learn more from you, I got acident when cuting tree like this on the ground , small tree slamp to my mouth, and i have to go to the doctor, but now I am fine with 3 stitched wound
If you watch closely at 6.00 on, as the wedge is hammered in, the tree moves up with each strike. I have seen someone do the same thing but the tree snapped. There was so much weight in the crown that after two or three hammer blows to the wedge, the weight pushed the tree up and snapped the cut.
Excellent instructional video. Never thought to use the wedge to unload the compression side. I usually first make an angle cut about 1/3 then cut through straight about 1/2 to keep the saw from getting jammed. I guess my technique was more kamikaze then I thought. Wedge makes perfect sense. People do not realize how dangerous the chain saw is let alone the weight and linear energy that trees have.
Nice job all around! There are a few ways to approach this job but I prefer your way, all safe controlled cuts! Those fruit trees are strong and springy giving one the appearance of a dull chain, I can see your chain was sharp by the chips. Thanks for the great video!
Interesting that "Takes a little thought" is part of the descriptive language...It is what has been missing from my 71 year history. A little thought has been missing from most of my fifty-five years of chainsaw adventures. In fact, what was present in my chainsaw experiences is " a lack of good judgement". I freely admit that I am not a dummy but have little or no ability to make a good sensible plan so my cutting history is filled with dozens of pinched blades in logs and branches. And I never seem to learn. This is a nice little video and it gets my coveted thumbs up. Who knew it was so simple. Well, David 23 skidoo did. I could have used UA-cam videos back in the day but back in the day, I didn't have a pot to piss in much less internet. Here's what I do (i'm not bragging): I keep a spare chain saw, spare saw chains and a bar, a come-along, a pulley and some rope and chain. I have a 4 X 4 pickup for muscle and to cart all the accessories around and bring the logs back to the house. What I don't have is a tractor with a bucket or wedges and a small sledge hammer...how did I miss that? I own 24 acres of densely populated scrub woods, the largest diameter trees are as big as 24" to 30" in diameter. I am not trying to clean up storm damage, I am gathering firewood for the winter. I cut maple, Oak, hardack, cherry, apple, ash, elm (there are still some elm on the property...all hardwoods There is a lot of poplar, basswood and butternut growing as well and it would be good to see some logger come in and clear it all away but no one wants that wood and I have no interest in wasting my time cutting those trees. So, once I get the tree hung up in other trees I curse my luck and start the cut on the compressed side, watch to see if the gap is closing so I can pull the saw out but, fifty percent of the time, I don't react in time because the gap closes quickly and my saw blade gets pinched. The second saw is there to free me from that and that works most of the time. Normally, I don't get the second saw stuck as well and the first saw comes loose. Maybe a couple of times I have damaged the blade and it is ruined. If I can, as an alternative, i get a rope or a chain on the log and pull enough to see if that will free the saw. Sometimes that works. Sometimes I have a small diameter tree log handy, trimmed and cut to a 12 foot length to use as a lever. You pry up and the saw comes loose. If it is a small tree, say four to six inch diameter, if I can get the base cut loose and down on the ground, I muscle the base up an inch and pull the base away from the tree that it is stuck in. If you can lift it (with your legs), you can move it anywhere from a few inches to a few feet and each time, the tree becomes easier to pick up and pull away after each move, the weight diminishes. If it appears that I can't employ those strategies because the tree is too large I avoid cutting the tree. What I described is my terrible uninformed history of cutting trees. Now that I am old (enough to know better), I don't do any of that anymore, instead I hire people, loggers, tree cutters and professionals to do that work. I hire contractors with full-size wood chippers, large excavators and bulldozers, and that is how I get a satisfying result. Don't get me wrong, I still cut the logs into firewood length and split the pieces on a homemade log splitter that is about double the size of a store bought one. Each year I use about 12 face cords. That is more than enough work for me to prove to myself that I am still capable.
I completely understand your post. I'm new and lucky for me I CAN watch videos, first. The wedge idea is a great way to stop the chainsaw from getting wedged, instead. For your cutting I would suggest stopping about half way then insert wedge. This way, you can avoid being too late and having issues. I'm no expert, so please don't take that advice without asking a professional, but it seems like a decent alternative.
@Mark OnTheBlueRidge Right Mark...Bar, not blade. Having been using chain saws for the last 55 years you'd think I'd know to call it a bar and I do. You remind me of my wife, the self-described grammar nazi. She gets me all the time.
Nope Been to tooooo many gun ranges , deployments and working with POPO. Gear does not make you. Fact is back in the day if you brought out the bling...i won the beer bet you could not shoot to hit shot. I have 6 Husvarna chain saws. Does that make me good at tree felling..cutting?
Do keep up! The point was to determine / identify compression and tension. This was an educational video and the subject was demonstrated clearly. Your suggested method, for educational purposes nothing was achieved. Now where’s your video?
Sir I turn up to do full tree jobs, crown reduction or deadwood removel etc etc. I’ve never seen a rancher with your skill from the UK to Europe etc. Do a job that effectively. That’s why I spent all my Military resettlement in the USA. Just wish I could get citizenship.
Nice work. I don't blame you a bit for the tractor push at the end. I work alone so I end up bringing them into upright position for felling but if I had such things I'm sure I'd use em.
I've done this before. Safest way is to make the first cut, then attach a chain to the bottom of the limb and pull it with a vehicle. This drags it away from the tree it's hung up on.
Good Example - I've wondered how best to do that. I have a number of small trees fell in my timber area which have fallen over, but are lodged. Can't get my tractor in there, where I usually use my winch to help fell the tree after an initial cut; with me out of the way. Did that with some angled trees on a steep slope where my cut had to be about shoulder height. Thanks.
Based on my experience with leaners, and I've brought down a few, he's taking a very fine chance with his vertical cuts being just seconds away from trapping his saw. No big deal because he can always hammer a wedge in to free it off, but I prefer to cut out a V-wedge then finish off by cutting from underneath. Works fine and saves stopping and starting the saw..
I have a video showing that method, too. It slows down the movement, which gives you time to step back, but it also makes the tree go vertical sooner. Learn both and make the choice depending on the current situation. Thanks for commenting!
I like the V-cut wedge technique too....mainly because a lot of times I like to finish it off with a axe. Don't have to worry about anything getting pinched then and lots of run time. That being said, he did a great job here.
Safely done. Good job. This is one of 3 ways to deal with a hung tree. The others are already detailed in the comments. The only thing I would add is not to drop start your saw. Nevermind being dangerous...It is very hard on the easy pull starters. Also best to let the saw warm up before running it or you are damaging your pistons every time. Let your cylinders expand brother.
@@DavidN23Skidoo Just subscribed. I bought a Stihl saw that's pretty powerful, so I don't feel safe without protective gear. I live in Northern Norway, but spent a year in Duluth as a teenager. Kind of nice to see some scenery from Minnesota.
I've been doing this for years. Usually with oak, maple, and cherry. Anytime a tree is caught in another tree. Locally they call this technique "Butt Jumping". Not sure how popular this terminology is but it seems to be fairly common term in western Pennsylvania. I do it slightly different from how you've shown. Instead of cutting vertically straight down like you've done, I cut 90 degrees to the log like you would normally cut a tree when it's already on the ground. Either way works and there isn't really any benefit from doing it one way over the other, unless you'd like to have nice square ends on the logs you cut. I tend to cut the logs into lumber after butt jumping them, so for me, it's nicer to have the square cut ends. It also doesn't stab into the ground as far when it drops which might be a slight benefit in some situations. There's no need to worry about the chain saw getting caught at the bottom of a square cut as the tree is naturally going to swing way from the cut and open up the bottom for the chainsaw to clear. I've never had a problem cutting square ends on the logs when butt jumping. But like I say, either way works.
I did the square cut on a big pin oak that had tipped over and lodged against another tree. It pushed back into the butt hard enough that it would not slide down. That was tense. I've been doing the vertical cut since then. Thanks for visiting and commenting.
I’m new to this but it seems the tricky part comes later when the hung up tree is nearly vertical. Not having machinery or sufficient access , what do you do with a vertical tree?
We probably recently had a microburst. I had 7 50 to 60 foot? 24 to 30” diameter 0:38 white pine blown over taking many white 0:38 oak, maple etc down with them. I also have a 20’ white pine top on the ground and have no idea where it came from. I don’t see the lower section. What a mess to clean up. The hardwood will be firewood for winter 25/26. I am not sure what I am going to do with the white pine logs. This is going to keep me, portable capstan and maastdem winch busy.
@@DavidN23Skidoo I went on line to find sawmills to get contact info and see if they are interested in large white pine. I am still cutting next winter’s firewood so I probably can’t get to this until late winter or spring. Its a mess and will take me a while to clean up.
@@DavidN23Skidoo Hi David. 5 big pine all between 40 and 60’ probably and around 30” diameter at the base. The top soil around the root are now vertical and 8 to 12’ high. They took their share of other trees down with them and it is a tangled mess. I am looking forward to picking away at it. I can only get the tractor close to one of the five but have the portable capstan and maasdan winch which I use somewhat regularly. I can appreciate all the tips and wisdom I have gotten from you and I will likely watch a few of them again. It will keep me thinking as I approach each task.
Great video, I watch lots of these videos just because I am no expert on cutting trees and I want to be around for a long time to come. This video was well thought out with lots of good information.
The wedge allows you to work easier because you are not lifting the saw repeatedly when there are many cuts to do. You are also better balanced to step back when the lodged tree drops. The wedge really helps you on big ones where you would be lifting through a long cut.
Exactly right' playing around trying to be too technical is a waste of time. If you you don't have the physical ability to do a under cut and awareness to predict what the tree is going to do.... you don't need to be running a saw. You could have also followed the top cut with a plunge cut out the bottom and a quick relief cut on the hinge wood......a small hinge would have gave away without having to do an upper cut... safer/save your back and left you the same amount of time to get away from the tree.
I agree with your first cut with the wedge. But thats where you stop cutting. I have found that pulling the base of the tree with a tractor is the safest way to bring the entire tree down.
David thank you for your valuable information. I'm about to cut a 10 inch dead maple branch that is almost vertical, probably has 20 degrees lean in it. A few top cuts a one behind those should it on the tension side? I can put a couple one inch cuts on the compression side (bottom) to give some relief!
You should make a face on the compressed side so the stem can rotate down on a hinge. You could bore cut to make the hinge or cut in from the back up to your proper hinge thickness, and then make your escape. Here's a black oak snag about the same size. These leaners move fast when you cut them loose. Have a good escape route planned before you cut. ua-cam.com/video/dsmd96sgn9A/v-deo.html
@@DavidN23Skidoo Haha you knew exactly what I am up against 👍, yes sir you are right, they move fast and you really can never be certain where they will go and that's why I called on you after seeing your channel in my recommendations. I admire and appreciate you guys for taking time to share your knowledge and hopefully preventing someone from being seriously injured or worse, I think some people underestimate the danger in tree cutting and even though I've done a little bit I still feel better watching and consulting before I fool with something that is loaded and leaning. I'm subscribing to your channel and I think I'll learn something. Don't mean to ramble on but anyway best wishes to you guys and be extra careful. I'll let you know how this goes when I get done.
Question...Stihl or Husqvarna? Small farm use, so, more than just home use. I have a Husqvarna 440 which is in need of a weird huge rubber skirt/gasket. I bought that after a -friend- ran over it with his tractor (the tractor won). What say you? The Husqvarna will work again, as soon as that part comes here, but now it has an air leak...
I like His kids, but I recommend the brand with good service close by. There are two Husky shops near me. You will learn to do most repairs yourself pretty soon.
@@DavidN23Skidoo No one but me will ever service it. I don't care about warranty. Only _ME_ will ever touch it! I kinda wish I bought another Stihl. When I went to take off the carb on this one...good god, it was so deep in there... The Stihl was much easier (but it was older too), I don't know if the new(er) Stihls are like the Husqvarna...we shall see as I'll probably end up buying one and selling this 440.
@@cluelessbeekeeping1322 The easy part on a Husky is greasing the throw out bearing without removing the clutch. That is the reason I went with Husky many years ago. I've changed the jug out on Huskies without too much trouble. Lining up linkages as they go back together is usually frustrating.
@@DavidN23Skidoo Thanks for all the info! All I've ever done (max) on chainsaws is the clean the carb, gas tank and replace a few clutches. I've never worn anything out. I can't think of where the throwout bearing is on a chainsaw, on a car transmission yes (speaking of which, I need to put in a bunch of clutch parts, including the throw out bearing...dang Miata, nothing but trouble!) Thanks again!
@@cluelessbeekeeping1322 it's the little needle bearing on the backside of the clutch.Many never grease it. On Stihls you pop an E clip to pull the clutch off. Husky drills the end of the crankshaft and you grease it with a flush fitting tool like you use to grease the roller on the end of the bar.
When you made the first cut could you not cut down from the top, as you did and then cut up from the bottom with a staggered cut, like you did when cutting the final branch, thanks for the video James
Not going to lie to you David, the first couple cuts scared me for your safety. A tree hung up like that requires some planning. I am not a tree cutting expert by any means, but I have cut a few in my time. I think I would have threw a line as high up around the tree as I could, then pull a cable(or some other pulling device) and try to get the tree on the ground first. This is, of course, assuming you have something you can pull with, and you have room to make the pull.
You make cuts on lodged trees vertically so the upper part can fall free. If you make a cut perpendicular to the stem, it is likely to jam against the lower part instead of falling.
The best way to cut it loose without pinching the saw and giving you time to move back out of the way would have been to cut a notch on the top side, by that a mean a v-shape wedge of wood. Then cut directly under the point of the v from the bottom up. With the wood removed from the top it gives the limb room to start moving and squeezing together, and it does it slowly so you can see what's happening and have time to step back out of the way. The way he cut it certainly works, but it releases very suddenly because it never starts moving until it just turns loose all at once.
We got our first on in 1995, a 272 XP, and we still use it. The thing that sold us on Huskys is greasing the clutch bearing through the end of the crankshaft instead of disassembling the clutch. It's a small thing, but very handy. I tell people that the saw shop mechanic is more important than the brand of saw. Bailey's logging supply is a great help for any saw owner. They have the parts, and can talk you through most maintenance problems and repairs.
You really have to be careful of the falling branch kicking down the moving chain saw and that coming into contact with yourself doing this type of work. Keep the plane of the blade away from yourself, to the side, so if it kicks down it will clear you. I almost cut off my leg.
The only mistake made, IMO, is pushing the tree with the tractor. In order to avoid possible injury or death it’s always better to pull the tree away from the one it’s hanging in, just like you’d do when using a winch.
Yeah that really scared me when he pushed. Getting that close to a huge heavy thing that may do any of several things seems like bad plan. Yes, I would have hooked on with a LONG chain to stay well away and pulled. To be fair though, it has already been said that he was demonstrating how to do it with no heavy equipment. I've done it that way too, just keep cutting and hope you can run fast enough when the whole thing drops out of the other tree.
He was pushing the broken limb away from the other tree. It impossible for that limb to come down on him. It is simple laws of physics. This man can teach alot of people.
5:20 You forgot to flip down your shield. Easy to forget. Excellent planning for safety, plus great equipment and camera work. Nice chaps, but no gloves? Love a sharp chain. I would just buck that stuck limb, I hate getting the saw stuck. I need at least two saws to unstick each other...
Gloves are required if you are handling wire line. If working conditions are clear, your hands are both locked on the saw when it is running, and gloves are used as needed. I always put my gloves on where I might be whipped, or run into thorns, and especially when I handle the chain. It is really easy to cut a finger when sharpening or inspecting the chain.
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@@DavidN23Skidoo Thank you. I appreciate the quick professional response. I am a safety pro myself, but always look at trees like women: you never know what's inside.
I would have wrapped a chain around the bottom of the last piece and pulled it out. Less chance of it tipping back on you especially if the top is caught in other trees. But then, up until today I have been notching the top first so what do I know?
The top was still attached to the trunk, so that is why I cut it loose with the saw. I also use a notch, or face, on the compressed side and then release the tension side by cutting upward. That will let the tree down more slowly, but the top will become vertical sooner. Use the method that works best in a situation.
@@DavidN23Skidoo I was talking about the last piece that was left after you had already cut out a couple pieces. And I wasn't saying that I disagreed with what you did at all because I wasn't there and couldn't see exactly how things were. I was just sort of talking generally what I do if I can put a good long rope on it and tie it to my trailer hitch. Doing what you did takes experience which I do not have.
@@davidblack2970 OK, gotcha now! I was having a little cognitive dissonance! I do get out the ropes once in a while, but with the loader on the tractor I cheat more now than I used to! Contact me if you ever come through Southern Illinois and maybe you can stop by and we will drop a few!
@@PaulHarristrinity Pear Wood dries to a very pale tan color. Its reasonably hard probably not terribly outdoor elements durable. The size this guy is cutting I would have been tempted to see if the trunk was worth milling. I have seen people turn pear wood on the lathe before too. It was beautiful once it was finished to high polish.
Good Question! When bucking logs, a cut from the tensioned side of a log that is not evenly supported, you very well may split the log lengthwise, ruining it. On standing trees, and especially leaners, cutting from the tensioned side probably will result in a lengthwise split of the tree. The tree gets elevation above you on a springpole, then drops. You may not get away in time. If you do escape, the tree is still ruined. I watched an inexperienced cutter destroy a nice walnut log on the landing one time because he did not understand this. I have also had to make reports on fatal accidents caused by improper falling procedures.
I'm in a park watching a man clear some dead trees. It was a windy day, and not good for cutting. The park was full of people, so imagine they had to cut the trees in the wind before they fell on some people. He cut a few, and limbed them up. He went to the last tree, and made a cut. The wind was blowing, and made the tree clamp down on the bar, and busted something on the chain. The other workers were staying back as the wind was making the trees fall every which way. When, the wind blew, the man could take the chain saw out of the tree. The man put down the chain saw, and he was staring at the cut. I couldn't see what was wrong, but something was wrong. The cut in the tree was opening, and closing like a mouth. The man reached in to the cut for some reason, and the cut closed on his hand. The man started to scream, and he fell to his knees. The cut kept opening, and closing, but the man's hand was caught. It was to much for some people, they ran up and grabbed the man. It looked like he lost his hand, but was just the glove caught in the cut of the tree. I didn't see the tree come down that day, but they put up cones to keep people away, which is what they should have done to begin with.
Excellent demo. I do a lot of solo and single 4WD driving in hilly tree covered steep alpine areas. I don't normally take a tractor with me, actually never! Chain saws are prohibited for the general public. Just the 4WD with ropes, straps, chains and a winch. And a good sharp axe. What would you do in my case? Previously I have just winched or dragged the tree away without mishap, but I am interested in your opinion please DavidN23Skidoo .
A couple good hand saws, plus wedges would be safer than an axe. Axes wear you out fast, and they cause wicked injuries. The old timers used axes for the face, and saws for the back cut. It's a good combination, but be aware of the hazards and have your axe really sharp so it cuts well. I use hand pruning blades attached to axe handles for pruning chores, and it is amazing how much work you can do with one.
@@DavidN23Skidoo Just as I thought. Seems like the "now ancient" common sense still works okay. I do carry all that stuff and you could shave with the axe. Not that I do when "gone bush". Merry Christmas David and thanks again for the video.
@@DavidN23Skidoo thank u sir didn't want to pay a fortune and didn't like the pant leg setup on others cut a lot of wood without them and have only touched the tip of my boots with the saw a time or two but think that as ii age might be a good idea good lesson also thank you ,!
Well from here on my couch that looked a little scary, but your attack with the saw seemed well thought out. I don't know if it was the right way or not, but you looked confident and it made sense to me. I appreciate you taking the time to post these.
Cutting trees is like a game of chess. One has to anticipate the trees next move.
A tree can put you in check
Just send it
And fighting a snake. You have to have the reflexes of a mongoose. You can do everything Wright then boom things go wrong. Dangerous work, dangerous tools. It's just a matter of time. It's like riding a motorcycle.
Like what game of chess kills you? Lol.
It's more like shooting pool... I've been running a saw for 20 years it's just basic geometry
its nice to see somebody who actually knows how to use a chainsaw safely. well done
Arborists tend to be the A team of chainsaw users. They almost always start saw with chain brake on. He used a chain brake at least once...
Professional as always David- nice to see all the other viedoes you've posted too. Thasnkyou for taking the time to share and educate
My pleasure! Thanks for visting!
This is an excellent video because many people can use this knowledge and frankly this knowledge can save lives.
Thank you sir, well done.
For those that are not experienced fellers, ask yourself can you gain experience without injury. Before attempting anything like this understand your situation will be different because there are no two trees the same. Sometimes you need to know when it’s time to walk away or get help, get other opinions or hire a professional. Do you understand compression and tension? Not understanding these forces will get you in trouble immediately. Do you understand why he made his cut diagonally to the tree and vertically to the ground?
In some situations like this, the moral of the story is learn and live not live and learn.
This is a great video. I am an amateur and doing more tree work on land I own and helping a friend on their farm. We have a lot of hung trees. I figured the same approach out on my own. However, I did notice the diagonal cut, perpendicular to the ground...why is that? Help me understand. Thanks! Joe
Exactly what I did today lol, it worked haha, i also have a nice pile of pine
@@armedveteran42 One 65 foot red oak is now in about 50 pieces 20" long laying on the ground . Today we cut , tomorrow we split ! My cutting is all in heavy deciduous forest (southern Ozark Plateau) and hangups are common . Sometimes it's hard to tell which way the tree is stressed , can make life interesting ...
The best way to prune a Bradford is just one cut, about 6" up from the ground. Then follow with the stump grinder.
Think you mean follow up with the stump pruner
No truer words have ever been written!
Thank you for the video. From all the ones I've watched, I can see tree cutting without being injured or destroying equipment/property is both an art and a science, and I picked up several good tips here.
That tip while cutting the limb around the 10:00 minute mark was excellent. Thank you. Didn’t expect it to twist that violently. Make the second cut downhill from the 1st. Very nice 👍🏼
Glad you liked it!
I've got a tree in a similar situation. It's a dead ash that has fallen inbetween to trunks. Tried pulling with the tractor (too heavy and just digs in even further) so we left it hoping the other ash would come down in another storm. 3 years later it's still holding up... i think this wedge technique could help us. Very useful explanation.
I appreciate seeing the right tools for the job and your experience to handle this safely. Good teacher. Tension and compression are good to teach for sure. I've been cutting smaller trees for years without all the understanding your teaching. Very helpful thank you.
You're Welcome! Thank You for watching and commenting!
This was the first video of yours that was recommended and I have revisited several times just to refresh my mind, very kind that you are willing to take time and explain this type of thing to keep others safe 💪
Thank you for visiting! Our latest video reviews the parts of a falling plan, plus several accidents.
This isn't the text book or safe way to do things.... Its bloody dangerous
@@chrisgrayston1982 eating ice is dangerous but we still enjoy it, whats your point.
Instead of pushing it over what I would have done is wrap a chain around it and pulled it out with my ATV. Great video. Subscribing.
There are many ways, but each video is one take, and then I have to find another tree! Thanks for watching and commenting! Holler if you come through Southern Illinois! Merry Christmas!
Good title
Great lessons!
I've known individuals-
Die cutting down a simple hanging limb,
I'm by far not the best or most experienced with chainsaw usage, I'm always overly cautious & conservative when considering my ability level & what I'm comfortable tackling.
Recognizing the potential hazards is key to survival.
Thanks for the video David. I have a number of leaning trees that need removing. Your instruction is a life saver.
Great to hear! Here is a recent video showing a leaner that is not snagged up top. When you make that bore cut, release the trigger before you pull the saw out so you don't blow out your hinge. Shoot some videos and show us your projects!ua-cam.com/video/dsmd96sgn9A/v-deo.html
Wish I had a neighbor like you with so much skill
i would have used a different method to release the compression with kerfs and then under cut, but the methodology you used is good and your aware of future movement...good job
the entrance to the subdivision behind my property is lined with bradford pear trees about 20-25 years old. when there are high winds or ice the large limbs sometimes break and usually fall on my property. I give the HOA 72 hrs to remove the limbs if they fail to do so I get my tractor and a chain and pull them out in the road and block one lane of the entrance and then they disappear within 24 hours. I am not a part of the subdivision but I call my action neighborly encouragement. it works every time.
I'd vary just slightly - the first time 72hrs notice, subsequently 36hrs - by then they know who they're calling and that arborist knows what to expect.
i wdont like HOAs
Those are probably the largest bradford pear trees I've ever seen. They usually fail before they get that big. Nice cutting job!
Thank you. I've got heck of a lot of old dead leaners in my woods which I wasn't going to touch until I got better educated. This is the information I was looking for!
thank you sir . i just bought my first saw and came to your for advice and it was well worth viewing .
Thank you very much for making this video. I have fallen trees and want to be safe when cutting. I'm new to a chainsaw, so that lesson at the end was a life saver. I always watch videos here before I go cutting anything. I'm not ready to take down trees myself, but want to cut fallen trees that are on the ground already. Some are still leaning exactly like this one in your video. I will go buy a wedge, so I can cut safely, like you showed us here. Thanks again for taking time to make a video.
Good job. I have been doing work like that for fifty years and I have no criticisms.
I recently brought down a dying birch that was very close to my house. I roped it off up high, did a proper bench cut and brought it down okay. The main thing about tackling big trees is to give it LOTS of thought before starting. Nice video, thanks.
I, too, used the rope technique successfully while falling hemlock and yellow cedar on our lot in SE Alaska. I tied a string to a weight and tossed it over some high branches, then pulled a rope up and around the tree, fastened the other end of the long rope to the hitch on our truck, and pulled tension on the tree before doing the stump cuts. All the trees fell exactly where we wanted them and no one got hurt.
I have to learn more from you, I got acident when cuting tree like this on the ground , small tree slamp to my mouth, and i have to go to the doctor, but now I am fine with 3 stitched wound
Thanks. I'm going to use that wedge technique. I like your tuition style.
If you watch closely at 6.00 on, as the wedge is hammered in, the tree moves up with each strike. I have seen someone do the same thing but the tree snapped. There was so much weight in the crown that after two or three hammer blows to the wedge, the weight pushed the tree up and snapped the cut.
Excellent instructional video. Never thought to use the wedge to unload the compression side. I usually first make an angle cut about 1/3 then cut through straight about 1/2 to keep the saw from getting jammed. I guess my technique was more kamikaze then I thought. Wedge makes perfect sense. People do not realize how dangerous the chain saw is let alone the weight and linear energy that trees have.
Thank You for visiting and commenting!
Nice job all around! There are a few ways to approach this job but I prefer your way, all safe controlled cuts! Those fruit trees are strong and springy giving one the appearance of a dull chain, I can see your chain was sharp by the chips. Thanks for the great video!
Well presented lesson, David.
Interesting that "Takes a little thought" is part of the descriptive language...It is what has been missing from my 71 year history. A little thought has been missing from most of my fifty-five years of chainsaw adventures. In fact, what was present in my chainsaw experiences is " a lack of good judgement". I freely admit that I am not a dummy but have little or no ability to make a good sensible plan so my cutting history is filled with dozens of pinched blades in logs and branches. And I never seem to learn.
This is a nice little video and it gets my coveted thumbs up. Who knew it was so simple. Well, David 23 skidoo did. I could have used UA-cam videos back in the day but back in the day, I didn't have a pot to piss in much less internet.
Here's what I do (i'm not bragging): I keep a spare chain saw, spare saw chains and a bar, a come-along, a pulley and some rope and chain. I have a 4 X 4 pickup for muscle and to cart all the accessories around and bring the logs back to the house. What I don't have is a tractor with a bucket or wedges and a small sledge hammer...how did I miss that?
I own 24 acres of densely populated scrub woods, the largest diameter trees are as big as 24" to 30" in diameter. I am not trying to clean up storm damage, I am gathering firewood for the winter. I cut maple, Oak, hardack, cherry, apple, ash, elm (there are still some elm on the property...all hardwoods There is a lot of poplar, basswood and butternut growing as well and it would be good to see some logger come in and clear it all away but no one wants that wood and I have no interest in wasting my time cutting those trees.
So, once I get the tree hung up in other trees I curse my luck and start the cut on the compressed side, watch to see if the gap is closing so I can pull the saw out but, fifty percent of the time, I don't react in time because the gap closes quickly and my saw blade gets pinched. The second saw is there to free me from that and that works most of the time. Normally, I don't get the second saw stuck as well and the first saw comes loose. Maybe a couple of times I have damaged the blade and it is ruined.
If I can, as an alternative, i get a rope or a chain on the log and pull enough to see if that will free the saw. Sometimes that works. Sometimes I have a small diameter tree log handy, trimmed and cut to a 12 foot length to use as a lever. You pry up and the saw comes loose. If it is a small tree, say four to six inch diameter, if I can get the base cut loose and down on the ground, I muscle the base up an inch and pull the base away from the tree that it is stuck in. If you can lift it (with your legs), you can move it anywhere from a few inches to a few feet and each time, the tree becomes easier to pick up and pull away after each move, the weight diminishes. If it appears that I can't employ those strategies because the tree is too large I avoid cutting the tree.
What I described is my terrible uninformed history of cutting trees. Now that I am old (enough to know better), I don't do any of that anymore, instead I hire people, loggers, tree cutters and professionals to do that work. I hire contractors with full-size wood chippers, large excavators and bulldozers, and that is how I get a satisfying result. Don't get me wrong, I still cut the logs into firewood length and split the pieces on a homemade log splitter that is about double the size of a store bought one. Each year I use about 12 face cords. That is more than enough work for me to prove to myself that I am still capable.
I completely understand your post. I'm new and lucky for me I CAN watch videos, first. The wedge idea is a great way to stop the chainsaw from getting wedged, instead. For your cutting I would suggest stopping about half way then insert wedge. This way, you can avoid being too late and having issues. I'm no expert, so please don't take that advice without asking a professional, but it seems like a decent alternative.
@Mark OnTheBlueRidge Right Mark...Bar, not blade. Having been using chain saws for the last 55 years you'd think I'd know to call it a bar and I do. You remind me of my wife, the self-described grammar nazi. She gets me all the time.
Nice job and thank you for the pointers! Usually, when someone breaks out a 372, they have some tree cutting experience.
Nope
Been to tooooo many gun ranges , deployments and working with POPO. Gear does not make you. Fact is back in the day if you brought out the bling...i won the beer bet you could not shoot to hit shot.
I have 6 Husvarna chain saws.
Does that make me good at tree felling..cutting?
On his second cut there was no need to wait for the cut to start to close. Put in the wedge as soon as there is room.
Do keep up! The point was to determine / identify compression and tension. This was an educational video and the subject was demonstrated clearly. Your suggested method, for educational purposes nothing was achieved. Now where’s your video?
No need for a wedge when it starts to compress... pull the saw out and finish up with a under cut.
Trying to be too technical is a waste of time.
Good lesson for those of us who are inexperienced. Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for visiting and commenting!
Great video brother
Thank You!
....YOU ARE AN EXCELLENT PRESENTER....PATIENT...COMPOSED...AND DEDICATED TO SAFETY....GOOD WORK...!!!
I did notice his safety shield was off a lot when cutting
I took an uprooted pine today, took a few cuts but I took my time and did it right thanks for the video
That's great! Lodged trees are always a risk because they move quick when you finish a cut. You're an expert now!
Good demo. And your years of being a land owner comes through in your style. A wiseman uses the correct PPE.
Sir I turn up to do full tree jobs, crown reduction or deadwood removel etc etc. I’ve never seen a rancher with your skill from the UK to Europe etc. Do a job that effectively. That’s why I spent all my Military resettlement in the USA. Just wish I could get citizenship.
Nice work. I don't blame you a bit for the tractor push at the end. I work alone so I end up bringing them into upright position for felling but if I had such things I'm sure I'd use em.
Thanks 👍
pretty great power saw skills great video ..
I've done this before. Safest way is to make the first cut, then attach a chain to the bottom of the limb and pull it with a vehicle. This drags it away from the tree it's hung up on.
Good Example - I've wondered how best to do that. I have a number of small trees fell in my timber area which have fallen over, but are lodged. Can't get my tractor in there, where I usually use my winch to help fell the tree after an initial cut; with me out of the way. Did that with some angled trees on a steep slope where my cut had to be about shoulder height. Thanks.
Good job. You make this look easy.
I love see a pro at work!
Great video, Thank you!!
That was a nice little lesson indeed. Thank you
Based on my experience with leaners, and I've brought down a few, he's taking a very fine chance with his vertical cuts being just seconds away from trapping his saw. No big deal because he can always hammer a wedge in to free it off, but I prefer to cut out a V-wedge then finish off by cutting from underneath. Works fine and saves stopping and starting the saw..
I have a video showing that method, too. It slows down the movement, which gives you time to step back, but it also makes the tree go vertical sooner. Learn both and make the choice depending on the current situation. Thanks for commenting!
I like the V-cut wedge technique too....mainly because a lot of times I like to finish it off with a axe. Don't have to worry about anything getting pinched then and lots of run time.
That being said, he did a great job here.
Safely done. Good job. This is one of 3 ways to deal with a hung tree. The others are already detailed in the comments.
The only thing I would add is not to drop start your saw. Nevermind being dangerous...It is very hard on the easy pull starters. Also best to let the saw warm up before running it or you are damaging your pistons every time. Let your cylinders expand brother.
Not once did he drop start the saw!! Every time he started it between his legs. What a strange thing to say Mr expert 🤔
sticky situation. great pointers. Thanks
JP
Well done video, thanks for this. Feel a little more confident in doing my winter mess clean up now.
Thx for the video. I have some forest on my property, but I'm pretty new at felling trees. This is useful.
Look at my playlists for more cutting situations. Wear your chaps, hard hat, eye and ear protection. Thanks for visiting!
@@DavidN23Skidoo Just subscribed. I bought a Stihl saw that's pretty powerful, so I don't feel safe without protective gear. I live in Northern Norway, but spent a year in Duluth as a teenager. Kind of nice to see some scenery from Minnesota.
This has been incredibly useful
well-seasoned Bradford pear is great for lathe turnings. It is a very fine-grained wood that takes a beautiful finish.
I have to admit it. I was expecting a compilation of tree cutting with Staying alive played in the background
I am curious why you elected to use a wedge instead of cutting from the bottom.
Lifting the saw repeatedly is tiring. Finishing each cut with the saw coming down allows you to step back just a bit quicker.
Excellent tutorial. Thank you.
I've been doing this for years. Usually with oak, maple, and cherry. Anytime a tree is caught in another tree. Locally they call this technique "Butt Jumping". Not sure how popular this terminology is but it seems to be fairly common term in western Pennsylvania. I do it slightly different from how you've shown. Instead of cutting vertically straight down like you've done, I cut 90 degrees to the log like you would normally cut a tree when it's already on the ground. Either way works and there isn't really any benefit from doing it one way over the other, unless you'd like to have nice square ends on the logs you cut. I tend to cut the logs into lumber after butt jumping them, so for me, it's nicer to have the square cut ends. It also doesn't stab into the ground as far when it drops which might be a slight benefit in some situations.
There's no need to worry about the chain saw getting caught at the bottom of a square cut as the tree is naturally going to swing way from the cut and open up the bottom for the chainsaw to clear. I've never had a problem cutting square ends on the logs when butt jumping. But like I say, either way works.
I did the square cut on a big pin oak that had tipped over and lodged against another tree. It pushed back into the butt hard enough that it would not slide down. That was tense. I've been doing the vertical cut since then. Thanks for visiting and commenting.
I’m new to this but it seems the tricky part comes later when the hung up tree is nearly vertical. Not having machinery or sufficient access , what do you do with a vertical tree?
I knew that the wedge would hold the cut open but I was amazed to see the trunk actually rise, and so visibly, at 6:05.
Wedges are amazing! Thanks for visiting!
How to stay alive with a stuck tree? Call this guy David. Nice work.
We probably recently had a microburst. I had 7 50 to 60 foot? 24 to 30” diameter 0:38 white pine blown over taking many white 0:38 oak, maple etc down with them. I also have a 20’ white pine top on the ground and have no idea where it came from. I don’t see the lower section. What a mess to clean up. The hardwood will be firewood for winter 25/26. I am not sure what I am going to do with the white pine logs. This is going to keep me, portable capstan and maastdem winch busy.
Is there anyone near you with a portable band mill? Making lumber would help with cleanup.
@@DavidN23Skidoo I went on line to find sawmills to get contact info and see if they are interested in large white pine. I am still cutting next winter’s firewood so I probably can’t get to this until late winter or spring. Its a mess and will take me a while to clean up.
@Gerry Plante Blowdown is always a mess, and has plenty of wood in a bind, just waiting to smack you.
@@DavidN23Skidoo Hi David. 5 big pine all between 40 and 60’ probably and around 30” diameter at the base. The top soil around the root are now vertical and 8 to 12’ high. They took their share of other trees down with them and it is a tangled mess. I am looking forward to picking away at it. I can only get the tractor close to one of the five but have the portable capstan and maasdan winch which I use somewhat regularly. I can appreciate all the tips and wisdom I have gotten from you and I will likely watch a few of them again. It will keep me thinking as I approach each task.
@@gerryplante2651 You are thinking, so you will get through it, but what a mess to deal with!
Thank you for the information. Always something to think about.
Great video, I watch lots of these videos just because I am no expert on cutting trees and I want to be around for a long time to come. This video was well thought out with lots of good information.
Good video! some good tips, i was told on my course to bar it back bit by bit till it comes untrapped from the tree
Nice, informative video and a very sharp saw. 👍🏻
Thanks 👍
Just cut a wedge of wood out of the top to give it room to close and then cut up from the bottom.
The wedge allows you to work easier because you are not lifting the saw repeatedly when there are many cuts to do. You are also better balanced to step back when the lodged tree drops. The wedge really helps you on big ones where you would be lifting through a long cut.
Exactly right' playing around trying to be too technical is a waste of time. If you you don't have the physical ability to do a under cut and awareness to predict what the tree is going to do.... you don't need to be running a saw.
You could have also followed the top cut with a plunge cut out the bottom and a quick relief cut on the hinge wood......a small hinge would have gave away without having to do an upper cut... safer/save your back and left you the same amount of time to get away from the tree.
I agree with your first cut with the wedge. But thats where you stop cutting. I have found that pulling the base of the tree with a tractor is the safest way to bring the entire tree down.
Nice work, thank you for the video.
David thank you for your valuable information. I'm about to cut a 10 inch dead maple branch that is almost vertical, probably has 20 degrees lean in it. A few top cuts a one behind those should it on the tension side? I can put a couple one inch cuts on the compression side (bottom) to give some relief!
You should make a face on the compressed side so the stem can rotate down on a hinge. You could bore cut to make the hinge or cut in from the back up to your proper hinge thickness, and then make your escape. Here's a black oak snag about the same size. These leaners move fast when you cut them loose. Have a good escape route planned before you cut. ua-cam.com/video/dsmd96sgn9A/v-deo.html
@@DavidN23Skidoo Haha you knew exactly what I am up against 👍, yes sir you are right, they move fast and you really can never be certain where they will go and that's why I called on you after seeing your channel in my recommendations. I admire and appreciate you guys for taking time to share your knowledge and hopefully preventing someone from being seriously injured or worse, I think some people underestimate the danger in tree cutting and even though I've done a little bit I still feel better watching and consulting before I fool with something that is loaded and leaning. I'm subscribing to your channel and I think I'll learn something.
Don't mean to ramble on but anyway best wishes to you guys and be extra careful. I'll let you know how this goes when I get done.
Take some photos or video to share! Thanks for writing!
really enjoyed watching your well made video. Learned a lot which I can use to help the neighbors with.
Question...Stihl or Husqvarna? Small farm use, so, more than just home use.
I have a Husqvarna 440 which is in need of a weird huge rubber skirt/gasket.
I bought that after a -friend- ran over it with his tractor (the tractor won).
What say you?
The Husqvarna will work again, as soon as that part comes here, but now it has an air leak...
I like His kids, but I recommend the brand with good service close by. There are two Husky shops near me. You will learn to do most repairs yourself pretty soon.
@@DavidN23Skidoo No one but me will ever service it. I don't care about warranty. Only _ME_ will ever touch it!
I kinda wish I bought another Stihl. When I went to take off the carb on this one...good god, it was so deep in there... The Stihl was much easier (but it was older too), I don't know if the new(er) Stihls are like the Husqvarna...we shall see as I'll probably end up buying one and selling this 440.
@@cluelessbeekeeping1322 The easy part on a Husky is greasing the throw out bearing without removing the clutch. That is the reason I went with Husky many years ago. I've changed the jug out on Huskies without too much trouble. Lining up linkages as they go back together is usually frustrating.
@@DavidN23Skidoo Thanks for all the info! All I've ever done (max) on chainsaws is the clean the carb, gas tank and replace a few clutches. I've never worn anything out. I can't think of where the throwout bearing is on a chainsaw, on a car transmission yes (speaking of which, I need to put in a bunch of clutch parts, including the throw out bearing...dang Miata, nothing but trouble!)
Thanks again!
@@cluelessbeekeeping1322 it's the little needle bearing on the backside of the clutch.Many never grease it. On Stihls you pop an E clip to pull the clutch off. Husky drills the end of the crankshaft and you grease it with a flush fitting tool like you use to grease the roller on the end of the bar.
Pink hard hat, pink chain saw, then the beer came out my nose when the pink tractor came out.
When you made the first cut could you not cut down from the top, as you did and then cut up from the bottom with a staggered cut, like you did when cutting the final branch,
thanks for the video
James
+icespeckledhens Yes, that would work, too. You use a little more muscle to do it that way.
But you also have more opportunity to be in harms way. The wedge makes the most sense. Good job sir.
Good video, good advice. Regards from Tas
Thanks and welcome
I didn’t know Bradford Pear trees could get so big. Dad used to have one but a heavy snow split in two one year.
Thanks for the helpful tips there sir 👍
Not going to lie to you David, the first couple cuts scared me for your safety. A tree hung up like that requires some planning. I am not a tree cutting expert by any means, but I have cut a few in my time. I think I would have threw a line as high up around the tree as I could, then pull a cable(or some other pulling device) and try to get the tree on the ground first. This is, of course, assuming you have something you can pull with, and you have room to make the pull.
Do you always have to make a curved cut and not a straight one.
You make cuts on lodged trees vertically so the upper part can fall free. If you make a cut perpendicular to the stem, it is likely to jam against the lower part instead of falling.
Great method, and by far the safest!! I use this method regularly
Of corse the tractor method is gona be safe...
What if you had to use a chainsaw?
The best way to cut it loose without pinching the saw and giving you time to move back out of the way would have been to cut a notch on the top side, by that a mean a v-shape wedge of wood. Then cut directly under the point of the v from the bottom up. With the wood removed from the top it gives the limb room to start moving and squeezing together, and it does it slowly so you can see what's happening and have time to step back out of the way. The way he cut it certainly works, but it releases very suddenly because it never starts moving until it just turns loose all at once.
Here you go! Thanks for visiting! ua-cam.com/video/mpgKTXNZMao/v-deo.html
Nice little collection of Husqvarna's.....
We got our first on in 1995, a 272 XP, and we still use it. The thing that sold us on Huskys is greasing the clutch bearing through the end of the crankshaft instead of disassembling the clutch. It's a small thing, but very handy. I tell people that the saw shop mechanic is more important than the brand of saw. Bailey's logging supply is a great help for any saw owner. They have the parts, and can talk you through most maintenance problems and repairs.
Great advice, thank you
You are welcome!
You really have to be careful of the falling branch kicking down the moving chain saw and that coming into contact with yourself doing this type of work. Keep the plane of the blade away from yourself, to the side, so if it kicks down it will clear you. I almost cut off my leg.
The only mistake made, IMO, is pushing the tree with the tractor. In order to avoid possible injury or death it’s always better to pull the tree away from the one it’s hanging in, just like you’d do when using a winch.
Good Point!
Yeah that really scared me when he pushed. Getting that close to a huge heavy thing that may do any of several things seems like bad plan. Yes, I would have hooked on with a LONG chain to stay well away and pulled. To be fair though, it has already been said that he was demonstrating how to do it with no heavy equipment. I've done it that way too, just keep cutting and hope you can run fast enough when the whole thing drops out of the other tree.
He was pushing the broken limb away from the other tree. It impossible for that limb to come down on him. It is simple laws of physics.
This man can teach alot of people.
Pole saw ????
Nicely done. Thank you for the lesson.
Glad it was helpful!
5:20 You forgot to flip down your shield. Easy to forget. Excellent planning for safety, plus great equipment and camera work. Nice chaps, but no gloves? Love a sharp chain.
I would just buck that stuck limb, I hate getting the saw stuck. I need at least two saws to unstick each other...
Gloves are required if you are handling wire line. If working conditions are clear, your hands are both locked on the saw when it is running, and gloves are used as needed. I always put my gloves on where I might be whipped, or run into thorns, and especially when I handle the chain. It is really easy to cut a finger when sharpening or inspecting the chain.
@@DavidN23Skidoo Thank you. I appreciate the quick professional response. I am a safety pro myself, but always look at trees like women: you never know what's inside.
I would have wrapped a chain around the bottom of the last piece and pulled it out. Less chance of it tipping back on you especially if the top is caught in other trees. But then, up until today I have been notching the top first so what do I know?
The top was still attached to the trunk, so that is why I cut it loose with the saw. I also use a notch, or face, on the compressed side and then release the tension side by cutting upward. That will let the tree down more slowly, but the top will become vertical sooner. Use the method that works best in a situation.
@@DavidN23Skidoo I was talking about the last piece that was left after you had already cut out a couple pieces. And I wasn't saying that I disagreed with what you did at all because I wasn't there and couldn't see exactly how things were. I was just sort of talking generally what I do if I can put a good long rope on it and tie it to my trailer hitch. Doing what you did takes experience which I do not have.
@@davidblack2970 OK, gotcha now! I was having a little cognitive dissonance! I do get out the ropes once in a while, but with the loader on the tractor I cheat more now than I used to! Contact me if you ever come through Southern Illinois and maybe you can stop by and we will drop a few!
Best thing to do with a Bradford pear is to cut it off at the ground and drench the stump with Roundup, whether it's got storm damage or not.
You got that right! They are spreading into the woods and look to be a real problem in addition to being a crappy shade tree.
Q
Nonya Damnbusiness
Can the wood be used for anything other than firewood?
@@PaulHarristrinity Pear Wood dries to a very pale tan color. Its reasonably hard probably not terribly outdoor elements durable. The size this guy is cutting I would have been tempted to see if the trunk was worth milling. I have seen people turn pear wood on the lathe before too. It was beautiful once it was finished to high polish.
as the saying goes"its easy when you know how",good video.
I thought I made that up.
My other peeve: "I knew it was easy".
Thanks for that, great instructional video👍🏻
Great Job!!! Thank You Very Much!!
Why shouldn't we cut from the tension side?
Good Question! When bucking logs, a cut from the tensioned side of a log that is not evenly supported, you very well may split the log lengthwise, ruining it. On standing trees, and especially leaners, cutting from the tensioned side probably will result in a lengthwise split of the tree. The tree gets elevation above you on a springpole, then drops. You may not get away in time. If you do escape, the tree is still ruined. I watched an inexperienced cutter destroy a nice walnut log on the landing one time because he did not understand this. I have also had to make reports on fatal accidents caused by improper falling procedures.
@@DavidN23Skidoo thank you, very interesting, I will make sure to take this into acount next time I go cutting wood
I'm in a park watching a man clear some dead trees. It was a windy day, and not good for cutting. The park was full of people, so imagine they had to cut the trees in the wind before they fell on some people. He cut a few, and limbed them up. He went to the last tree, and made a cut. The wind was blowing, and made the tree clamp down on the bar, and busted something on the chain. The other workers were staying back as the wind was making the trees fall every which way. When, the wind blew, the man could take the chain saw out of the tree. The man put down the chain saw, and he was staring at the cut. I couldn't see what was wrong, but something was wrong. The cut in the tree was opening, and closing like a mouth. The man reached in to the cut for some reason, and the cut closed on his hand. The man started to scream, and he fell to his knees. The cut kept opening, and closing, but the man's hand was caught. It was to much for some people, they ran up and grabbed the man. It looked like he lost his hand, but was just the glove caught in the cut of the tree. I didn't see the tree come down that day, but they put up cones to keep people away, which is what they should have done to begin with.
Wow! That was a disaster for the cutter!
Smart guy, easy to see he thinks things through and safety is how you get to go home at the end of each day.
Very nice and informative video. Hopefully you just saved someone from getting hurt. Stay safe!
Excellent demo. I do a lot of solo and single 4WD driving in hilly tree covered steep alpine areas. I don't normally take a tractor with me, actually never! Chain saws are prohibited for the general public. Just the 4WD with ropes, straps, chains and a winch. And a good sharp axe. What would you do in my case?
Previously I have just winched or dragged the tree away without mishap, but I am interested in your opinion please DavidN23Skidoo
.
A couple good hand saws, plus wedges would be safer than an axe. Axes wear you out fast, and they cause wicked injuries. The old timers used axes for the face, and saws for the back cut. It's a good combination, but be aware of the hazards and have your axe really sharp so it cuts well. I use hand pruning blades attached to axe handles for pruning chores, and it is amazing how much work you can do with one.
@@DavidN23Skidoo Just as I thought. Seems like the "now ancient" common sense still works okay. I do carry all that stuff and you could shave with the axe. Not that I do when "gone bush". Merry Christmas David and thanks again for the video.
Merry Christmas to you, too! Thank You for visiting!
Think this man shared his wisdom who could have saved a life or more.
Where u get chaps at please?
Bailey's logging supply. They have safety gear, saws, chain, bars, parts, rigging for climbers, and real people if you need to talk.
@@DavidN23Skidoo thank u sir didn't want to pay a fortune and didn't like the pant leg setup on others cut a lot of wood without them and have only touched the tip of my boots with the saw a time or two but think that as ii age might be a good idea good lesson also thank you ,!
NICE SAWS YOU ARE A PRO HUSKY OWNER
Job well done. Safety is paramount. 👍
the first cut why not do the top side half cut and then a inch or two toward the trunk of the tree just saw upwards toward the top half-cut ?
You may have many cuts to make, and gravity helps you cut down.