I’m cranking first kick every single time now. This is invaluable instruction. I did miss the verbal detail at 10:55 though the first couple of times and thought I had an electrical issue. “Points must be open for the light to come on!” You guys are the undisputed experts on these bikes.
Never thought I would be working on points in 2018, but here I am! After watching the video AND reading the comments, I was able to adjust them smoothly, and my 1971 SL350 fired up on the first kick! Thanks guys, the video is much appreciated
Quick suggestion to minimize oil spilling - have the bike on the CENTER STAND (not the kick stand), and place a spacer (e.g., 3/3" thick board) under the left leg of the center stand so the bike tilts slightly to the right before you remove the stator cover.
Been adjusting Honda ignition contact points and timing since 1970. Several things wrong here. The wire terminal on the left set of contact points is installed incorrectly. It should be on the other side of the insulator. The 'T and LT' marks were not explained. FInding TDC is easier if you remove the intake tappet cover and observe the intake valve opening and closing as you approach TDC. But the major error here is disregarding the contact points gap. Gap controls dwell, or the time the ignition coil has to recharge. It is very important. The other factor that will affect ignition timing is slop in the breaker plate. You should always loosen the 6mm screws and check for up and down or side-to-side slop. I always push the plate upward, and then maintain this position when moving the plate and tightening the screws. This is necessary to keep the contact points gap consistent whenever theplate is loosened to making timing adjustments. Set the left gap to 0.35 mm, max. Rotate the breaker plate to adjust the ignition timing. For the right cylinder, you simply adjust the contact point gap to set the timing. After working on thousands of CB350s, 360s and 450s, I can recommend keeping the left cylinder gap at no more than 0.35 mm, or you will have a difficult time getting the right cylinder timed while maintaining the all-important contact point gap of 0.30 to 0.40 mm.
I agree, a lot of gaps left out which are important. Hipster moto science in full swing. Plus, turning the motor backwards is a big no no, ad it can slip a cam tooth.
Could u help my fix my CB125K ? i have adjusted the points serveral times but it has no power down low , only 5000 rpm+ When i set my points the the F mark it wont run , i need to adjust is about 20 degrees before it fires up .
As I recall, Honda had 2 models of the 350 engine, one was 179 degrees apart in firing, and the other was something odd but I don't recall (they fired like one right after the other). My friend had one of the latter and could not figure out why his bike ran so poorly (the Honda dealer had done the tuneup). I fixed it for him and he said, "It's not run this well since it was new." Also, I found that ANY looseness in the cam chain made setting the points difficult. In the manual adjusted cam chains one could remove almost all the slop, but in the hydraulic ones not. I found that if one only rotates the engine only in the direction of operation (not back and forth), then any cam chain slop is not a problem and points can be set very precisely.
Thanks very much for this video! It made my struggles to get my cb500t up and running close to perfect! If you take suggestions for future videos i would very much like to see how you set valve clearence on a cb450 or cb500t :)
Great video. A few comments if I may. The points usually come with a protective coating, oil or whatever, and it is a good idea to clean them before use. Running a clean business card between them seems to work. I use a little alcohol.If the breaker plate is off take a good look at the points cam. If it is badly worn or scored it will quickly wear out the points rubbing block or give you problems trying to set the timing. Worn parts are a problem on older machines.The points are gapped before timing setting as this effects the dwell or time the points are closed in degrees of engine rotation. During the time the points are closed the ignition coil charges. Honda recommends a point gap of 0.012" to 0.016" or 0.3-0.4mm for the CB350.Timing may also be set with a VOM or points checker but your system is dead on. Thanks for great video.
Wow, really impressed with this tutorial. I will be using this in my small engines class to explain breaker points ignition basics. I always get questions on it and this is a good way to explain it. Wish more videos on here were made at this production quality level. Thanks again!
Such a valuable video. I've read the manual but watching someone do it really pulls it all together. For everyone learning on their own this is awesome.
this is the best and most well explained video or tutorial I have ever seen. Although I no longer need it as I upgraded to a Dynatek S yesterday, but thank you.
Hi, guys!! Your videos are absolute GOLD!! Thank you very much for these!! I wonder if you could do a cb450 k (etc.) vid showing how to adjust the valve tappet clearance as there is no video on it online and probably many noobs like me have the same uncertainties about it. All the best, Ric
Can a bad point timing cause a filter to sputter and not put out a lot of power through the exhaust? I have a 450 and the left filter sputters and the exhaust is weaker compared to the right side. Thank you for putting out these videos Brendan!
Thank you! Don't hesitate to ever reach out for support, we have a huge and growing knowledge base on our website and youtube channel on how to do the work and get your bike running fantastic. We also have a technical support line open on monday and tuesday from 12-6 if you truly get stuck!
That felt pad under the timing cam should be greased up to keep the cam and points from wearing out to soon. It should run on the cam and be very well soaked with oil. Other than that. Pretty good tutorial on getting started. The dwell is important on points ignition systems. But you would need a dwell meter to get those right. Any old gear head in your neighborhood should have one. But since they haven't used it in years they won't be able to find it.
nice job guys, even though i've done this a bunch of times, I learned some new tips from this video! Keep up the good work, would love to see more maintenance tutorials
Trying to kick over my CB250 K0 think timing needs adjusting Guys in the shop recently fitted new points but I don't reckon they set timing correctly. I rode bike regularly a few years back on kickstart - fine every time. My husband used to nurture the bike but he passed on a year ago so I'm handling spanners now ..... steep learning curve but I'm determined. My sweet man mentioned carb clean / rebuild. This may sound like a stupid question but did you remove both spark plugs at the beginning of setting timing or just the left?
hi i try to restore a honda cb 360 1975 but the old owner change the original rectifier and put a new one but was a regulator rectifier 6 wires , but dont start . cant i fix it making better conection or buy a new one original
There are some instances where you have to. Replacing the valve shims on my motorcycle required me to rotate it backwards very slowly in order to get everything back in place.
Hi Brendon. Have you ever come across this problem. I can’t get the points cover on? The bottom of the left hand points are lower than the cover! I’m stumped. I may have to cut a hole in the aluminium cover. This follows a top end dismantle and rebuild
So, I remember back then, I'm 61, the praise leaped upon the Japanese bikes, Honda in particular, about how maintenance free they were. Yes, they solved the oil leak problem that Harley, Triumph, BSA, and Norton, etc had. However, setting points every 1,500 miles is ridiculous. Even the fore mentioned brands didn't have that schedule. How could one take any sort of a long trip if that were the case?
From someone as knowledgeable as you about these CB bikes, it would be great to get your opinion on converting the bike over to electronic ignition - if they make a conversion kit setup. Wouldn't that make for a better running bike?
It can improve ignition but in my experience the point system works fine if it is done correctly, I had to remove my electronic ignition due to one of the pick ups failing. My advise is keep the points. I reverted back and glad I did.
Hello and thank you for your videos. I replaced a damaged piston on a 1972 cb350 twin a couple weeks ago and now I can't get it to start again. How can I check I got the timing right? I installed the camshaft with know pointing upward in the twelve o'clock position and sprocket with line perpendicular flat to engine, while index mark on stator was at LT position. Valves are adjusted to tolerances, still nothing. Did I probably miss something? Is there truth to this left piston on LT should NOT be on compression stroke or position is just position? The motor feels funny when I crank it and cylinders have a LOT of compression, almost too much although I'm no expert. Thanks for any help, I will set points next week but will probably have to take top end apart again.
Hmmm reach out to our support through our tech support phone calls on the website. You could be having a few issues going on but we'd need to get more information before we could help. On our support page theres a spot to sign up for a time for us to call you I'd recommend doing that.
So im new to bikes, on my recently purchased 1969 CB350 there is a dimple where ur slot/line in the stator is located. Do I remove this dimple of coating or is that just the way it is on this one?
Man! You said a couple of ounces may come out when you remove the cover... I got 1-2 quarts. I’m new to vintage bikes so I’m not sure what’s going on. Any help would be appreciated. But these videos are super helpful In explaining the how to process. Thanks a lot.
I have gotten a 1971 cl350 recently. Ever since ive had it the left cylinder will only half run at idle and thats pretty much it.. it backfires and blows a little smoke when i downshift. Coil has been replaced and so has the spark plug. Carb has been rebuilt but the diaphragms havent been replaced. Any suggestions on the problem? 23k miles and points dont look to far from new
You described the point gap as "irrelevant". The gap determines your dwell. It is relevant as the amount of time the points are closed is how the strength of the magnetic field in the coil is generated. When the points open allows the field to collapse initiating the spark. Additionally when given a range for point gap it is set at the upper limit because as the shoe wears the point gap decreases but stays within range and dwell limits. It is relevant.
+Sean Vierling Sir you are absolutely correct. However since these Hondas use one coil and one set of points per cylinder that is triggered by the camshaft running at 1/2 engine speed they have ample dwell time regardless of the gap value. Had this been a single set of points in a multi-cylinder engine with a distributor (I.E. an old American V8) then the dwell angle value is a very relevant, especially as RPM's increase. Actually I thought GM's way of setting points with a dwell meter back in the day was pretty clever, over setting just gap. Thanks for the input!
The opening is relevant. You must have sufficient opening . If not, during opening of the point, the ark will influens in a bad manner. For example, For maximum power from the coil, the arc has to shut down as fast as possible. A longer arc, will prevent this occuring. The arc can be unstable" the firing time vil alter a bit. The Points will not last as long as they should. Therefor is the dwell importent. .
Common Motor Collective I agree the gap matters. My 1971 CB175 ran better after I adjusted the points gap, which was too small. Before the idle was erratic.
great video thank you. I was not getting the light on but had not turned the switch to run. I then got left side lined up with the light but the light will not come on on the right, any ideas?
not a word on dwell angle which is about getting the spark voltage correct ( points gap which you did not do) points gap + charging time for condensors
You can also usa a multimeter. Put it in the Ohm position and hold each end to one side of the contact breaker. When they are closed the reading will be a low figure. The moment the contacts slightly open, the multimeter will display a 1 (infinit resistance). That moment the spark plugs spark. Now adjust the base plate to have it at the correct moment.
when i moved the plate, the timing did not adjust. I also have spark even when the points are closed. Do I have something shorted or is my basket case of a bike likely modified with some form of electronic ignition? Timing is too far advanced and can't seem to change it. Bike sputters when kicking and doesn't start, kicks back really hard. It's a 72 sl125 in Thailand with a shitty sheng-wey carb. Thing ran before miraculously but has been down for months now. No idea what killed it, but I bet it lost spark and the mechanics here just tried to bypass the mechanical ignition system. Is this even possible? I'm so confused.
Really well done video. Thank you. I have a quick question however: I purchased a continuity light (assume it's the same as your testing light), and it never turns off or on when rotating the engine... It is simply always on. This is my first experience using continuity lights so I'm pretty confused why my light doesn't turn on and off like yours does. Do you have any idea what I may be doing wrong? Thank you again.
the dwell or time the points are closed is the amount of time the coil has to charge the magnetic fields ... so point gap is very important for a good spark
Just to know, does it matter how long the light stays on after getting past the fire point? Only important that it only turns on at the exact correct moment?
Welp.. looks like I have been running on one cylinder. Right side never kicked off during my test.. come to think of it, I was having backfire on that side. Points come tomorrow, new bike by this weekend. Wish me luck!
Should you be able to rotate the engine back that easily? When trying to line up my marks, if I overshoot, I cannot and am forced to rotate through another cycle. I also have to hold it in place else it rotates through another 90 degrees or so. Working on a '75 CB360T.
At the points, at the 6 o'clock position is usually a felt piece that goes between the two posts. I see that you aren't running them...are they required?
still can't get mine to run on both cylinders. and it's driving me nuts. found a loose connection today at a blue wire connecting the points and the coil. figured that must be the problem. fixed that. still won't run on the right side. when i check for spark on the right, it's there. but when i put the plug in the cylinder head and turn it over, not a single fire even with starting fluid. how can it have gas and spark and not be firing? is the intake valve not opening? is the timing off a whole 360 degrees or something? is that even possible?? i ordered more parts from common motor -- my new favorite thing to do. got ignition coils and condensers and spark plugs and caps all coming. but i want to be out there riding all ready! getting sick of waiting for shipping over and over again every time i find something else wrong with this bike
Hey Andrew, message us on the support on our website! include some photos and everything you've tried and we will get it figured out! Include your phone number in case I need to call you.
@@Common-motor just watched this video again yesterday. can't seem to reset the timing without this video lol. i'd be so lost without you guys. you'd think i'd remember how to do it by now, but no lol
I don't have CB350F parts unfortunately but I know there's a lot of guys out there doing CB350F/CB400f parts I would send out some emails. I have most of the suspension, braking and electrical components because it shares the same stuff with the CB360 but no carb or engine parts at the moment. If you need used stuff I might try email the guys over at ricepaddy.com. They have a ton off stuff for awesome prices.
is their a way to use a dwell meter instead of feeler gauges? i feel i get a more accurate (therefor, longer points life) getting it set NUTS ON with a dwell meter
I'm sure its possible, we haven't had to use a dwell meter over here but if you really want to dial in the timing a stroboscopic timing light can get you that last tiny bit of the way there. It just makes a mess, I know a few people out there have taken a old beat up cover inspection cover and drilled a hole in it so they aren't spraying oil everywhere.
TheGoatMumbler There is grease that comes with the ignition rebuild kit when you order it, but if you are playing along at home, we recommend White Lithium grease.
Are there downsides to not using the Honda recommended method for setting static timing? If this works as well as it seems, it's surprising it's not a standard way to set timing.
when i set the point to the LF mark the test light is on then turns off at LF instead of being off then turning on at LF. do the spark plugs only fire when the points open or when they close to?
I've got a 68 250 that I'm currently sorting out. Original everything and that is half my problems heh. But eventually I'll bput a 350 topend on it and do some work to the engine. And another reason why electronic ignition will be going in as soon as possible lol
Exactly what mark said. A few ounces should come out if you have the proper amount in the bike. If a lot comes out you are probably on your side stand and need to be straight on on your center stand.
+David Iliyn If the points are closed then the test light will not trigger on. Try opening the points gently with a small screw driver and see if the light kicks on.
1975 Honda XL350 has magneto ignition. There is no battery voltage to the points. You must use a self powered test light, continuity tester, or an ohm-meter when setting the static ignition timing. All the original 1970s era Honda Xl250K/XL350K series bikes are magneto ignition with breaker points. The instructions in the video above are for bikes with battery and coil ignition triggered by breaker points.
PLEASE HELP!! I have a 1974 Honda cb360 when I got it it was only running on one cylinder I set the timing and it runs great at idle speed but when I went to take it for ride it started spitting and sputtering around 4k rpms and when I hit 5k the left cylinder started kicking out
Hi, I'm having a problem with my honda cb125. I cleaned the contacts of the ignition today, put everything back with no problems but the bike doesn't start! What could it be? Please help me!
I’m cranking first kick every single time now. This is invaluable instruction. I did miss the verbal detail at 10:55 though the first couple of times and thought I had an electrical issue. “Points must be open for the light to come on!” You guys are the undisputed experts on these bikes.
Never thought I would be working on points in 2018, but here I am! After watching the video AND reading the comments, I was able to adjust them smoothly, and my 1971 SL350 fired up on the first kick! Thanks guys, the video is much appreciated
Omg lmao, epic rip at 11:25 into the video, how he didn't crack up from that is beyond me ,I'm impressed with his degree of professionalism
He didn't laugh because that's friction from the tripod being shifted up.
Battling a 71' CB350 right now that has been sitting a while. Very informative. Many thanks!
I'm not a mechanic, but I understood your explanation of what points are and what they do...Very well done.
Thank you!
@@Common-motor❤❤
Thank you for taking your time to support us novices out there. Great help
Quick suggestion to minimize oil spilling - have the bike on the CENTER STAND (not the kick stand), and place a spacer (e.g., 3/3" thick board) under the left leg of the center stand so the bike tilts slightly to the right before you remove the stator cover.
Been adjusting Honda ignition contact points and timing since 1970. Several things wrong here. The wire terminal on the left set of contact points is installed incorrectly. It should be on the other side of the insulator. The 'T and LT' marks were not explained. FInding TDC is easier if you remove the intake tappet cover and observe the intake valve opening and closing as you approach TDC. But the major error here is disregarding the contact points gap. Gap controls dwell, or the time the ignition coil has to recharge. It is very important. The other factor that will affect ignition timing is slop in the breaker plate. You should always loosen the 6mm screws and check for up and down or side-to-side slop. I always push the plate upward, and then maintain this position when moving the plate and tightening the screws. This is necessary to keep the contact points gap consistent whenever theplate is loosened to making timing adjustments. Set the left gap to 0.35 mm, max. Rotate the breaker plate to adjust the ignition timing. For the right cylinder, you simply adjust the contact point gap to set the timing. After working on thousands of CB350s, 360s and 450s, I can recommend keeping the left cylinder gap at no more than 0.35 mm, or you will have a difficult time getting the right cylinder timed while maintaining the all-important contact point gap of 0.30 to 0.40 mm.
Honda Joe. Great points. (Pun intended) :)
I think these videos are for (and kind of by) moto-hipsters without a mechanical background.
I agree, a lot of gaps left out which are important. Hipster moto science in full swing.
Plus, turning the motor backwards is a big no no, ad it can slip a cam tooth.
Could u help my fix my CB125K ? i have adjusted the points serveral times but it has no power down low , only 5000 rpm+
When i set my points the the F mark it wont run , i need to adjust is about 20 degrees before it fires up .
Pick-up coil is in the angle position of the crank? or the timing of the F-Mark Crank case of Magnet is given on any side of the pick-up coil magnet ?
Mr khokon hello , ive sold the bike . New owner installed a CDI Ignition .
As I recall, Honda had 2 models of the 350 engine, one was 179 degrees apart in firing, and the other was something odd but I don't recall (they fired like one right after the other). My friend had one of the latter and could not figure out why his bike ran so poorly (the Honda dealer had done the tuneup). I fixed it for him and he said, "It's not run this well since it was new." Also, I found that ANY looseness in the cam chain made setting the points difficult. In the manual adjusted cam chains one could remove almost all the slop, but in the hydraulic ones not. I found that if one only rotates the engine only in the direction of operation (not back and forth), then any cam chain slop is not a problem and points can be set very precisely.
Thanks very much for this video! It made my struggles to get my cb500t up and running close to perfect!
If you take suggestions for future videos i would very much like to see how you set valve clearence on a cb450 or cb500t :)
Great video. A few comments if I may. The points usually come with a protective coating, oil or whatever, and it is a good idea to clean them before use. Running a clean business card between them seems to work. I use a little alcohol.If the breaker plate is off take a good look at the points cam. If it is badly worn or scored it will quickly wear out the points rubbing block or give you problems trying to set the timing. Worn parts are a problem on older machines.The points are gapped before timing setting as this effects the dwell or time the points are closed in degrees of engine rotation. During the time the points are closed the ignition coil charges. Honda recommends a point gap of 0.012" to 0.016" or 0.3-0.4mm for the CB350.Timing may also be set with a VOM or points checker but your system is dead on. Thanks for great video.
Wow, really impressed with this tutorial. I will be using this in my small engines class to explain breaker points ignition basics. I always get questions on it and this is a good way to explain it. Wish more videos on here were made at this production quality level. Thanks again!
Such a valuable video. I've read the manual but watching someone do it really pulls it all together. For everyone learning on their own this is awesome.
One of the best videos I’ve seen. Clear and precise. Thanks so much
this is the best and most well explained video or tutorial I have ever seen. Although I no longer need it as I upgraded to a Dynatek S yesterday, but thank you.
Thanks....followed your video my backfiring 1973 Honda CL350 runs like a beast now
💪🏻may we forever keep it powering down the streets
Man this video is great!! I'm setting my points tomorrow on my CB350, thanks guys!!!
Adjust gap before timing.Gap is critical .
Best video i have seen,explained perfectly.Thank you
Hi, guys!! Your videos are absolute GOLD!! Thank you very much for these!! I wonder if you could do a cb450 k (etc.) vid showing how to adjust the valve tappet clearance as there is no video on it online and probably many noobs like me have the same uncertainties about it.
All the best,
Ric
Excellent video, really elucidating for beginners such as myself. Thanks so much!
I just did mine to the manual worked perfectly
Good clip to help others, Thanks for taking the time to upload
Your videos are simply the best. Thanks
Glad we can help!
Thanks for the video post. Thanks for the great parts you shipped me recently. I'm glad I found you. I love my old Hondas !
Can a bad point timing cause a filter to sputter and not put out a lot of power through the exhaust? I have a 450 and the left filter sputters and the exhaust is weaker compared to the right side. Thank you for putting out these videos Brendan!
Great video, was able to get a 1973 cl350 running strong
how does this only have 4 views? Great video for beginners like me.
Thankyou for posting this. Really needed a tutorial Vid that explains everything step by step.
I put a timeing chain on my 72 450 can I have it 180 out
This is such a great video, had a mechanic that did work on my CB350, he couldn't get it running correctly. :(
Thank you! Don't hesitate to ever reach out for support, we have a huge and growing knowledge base on our website and youtube channel on how to do the work and get your bike running fantastic. We also have a technical support line open on monday and tuesday from 12-6 if you truly get stuck!
Hi Brian I’m a bit confused about the right side timing. After the LF mark set. Which way do I turn the f mark? Thank you
Freaking fantastic ! See if it works on my Honda CB 360 ...I might have to order some new points from you guys...thanks
What kind of grease and oil do you use when lubricating parts in these machines? I have a CB750 K1 that I’m fixing up and I’m just curious. Thank you!
What is the path of the electricity from the battery to the points? Aside from the ignition switch, what would make it be off vs be on?
That felt pad under the timing cam should be greased up to keep the cam and points from wearing out to soon. It should run on the cam and be very well soaked with oil. Other than that. Pretty good tutorial on getting started. The dwell is important on points ignition systems. But you would need a dwell meter to get those right. Any old gear head in your neighborhood should have one. But since they haven't used it in years they won't be able to find it.
Great video thanks
nice job guys, even though i've done this a bunch of times, I learned some new tips from this video! Keep up the good work, would love to see more maintenance tutorials
Trying to kick over my CB250 K0 think timing needs adjusting Guys in the shop recently fitted new points but I don't reckon they set timing correctly. I rode bike regularly a few years back on kickstart - fine every time. My husband used to nurture the bike but he passed on a year ago so I'm handling spanners now ..... steep learning curve but I'm determined. My sweet man mentioned carb clean / rebuild. This may sound like a stupid question but did you remove both spark plugs at the beginning of setting timing or just the left?
hi i try to restore a honda cb 360 1975 but the old owner change the original rectifier and put a new one but was a regulator rectifier 6 wires , but dont start . cant i fix it making better conection or buy a new one original
pro tip: NEVER rotate the engine backwards. You can cause the timing chain to skip a tooth.
Idefiyou Absolutely!!! Do it once and you will never do it again!
Idefiyou ok
There are some instances where you have to. Replacing the valve shims on my motorcycle required me to rotate it backwards very slowly in order to get everything back in place.
Thank you friend!
Pro tip if you rotate backwards and it jumps it’s already wore out
Thanks for the info. Hopefully i will have my 74 450 going this weekend.
Another excellent and very informative video.. thanks for sharing 😊
Glad you enjoyed it
What a great video. Thanks. Any chance you can do one on the 360's wire loom, layout and inspection?
What does it mean if the light gets brighter instead of shutting off when the points touch?
Hi Brendon. Have you ever come across this problem. I can’t get the points cover on? The bottom of the left hand points are lower than the cover! I’m stumped. I may have to cut a hole in the aluminium cover. This follows a top end dismantle and rebuild
So, I remember back then, I'm 61, the praise leaped upon the Japanese bikes, Honda in particular, about how maintenance free they were. Yes, they solved the oil leak problem that Harley, Triumph, BSA, and Norton, etc had. However, setting points every 1,500 miles is ridiculous. Even the fore mentioned brands didn't have that schedule. How could one take any sort of a long trip if that were the case?
Awesome tutorial. Well explained and right on the money. Thanks so much.
From someone as knowledgeable as you about these CB bikes, it would be great to get your opinion on converting the bike over to electronic ignition - if they make a conversion kit setup. Wouldn't that make for a better running bike?
It can improve ignition but in my experience the point system works fine if it is done correctly, I had to remove my electronic ignition due to one of the pick ups failing. My advise is keep the points. I reverted back and glad I did.
Hello and thank you for your videos. I replaced a damaged piston on a 1972 cb350 twin a couple weeks ago and now I can't get it to start again. How can I check I got the timing right? I installed the camshaft with know pointing upward in the twelve o'clock position and sprocket with line perpendicular flat to engine, while index mark on stator was at LT position. Valves are adjusted to tolerances, still nothing. Did I probably miss something? Is there truth to this left piston on LT should NOT be on compression stroke or position is just position? The motor feels funny when I crank it and cylinders have a LOT of compression, almost too much although I'm no expert. Thanks for any help, I will set points next week but will probably have to take top end apart again.
Hmmm reach out to our support through our tech support phone calls on the website. You could be having a few issues going on but we'd need to get more information before we could help. On our support page theres a spot to sign up for a time for us to call you I'd recommend doing that.
thank u brandon im working on a1972 honda 450 trying to set points
So im new to bikes, on my recently purchased 1969 CB350 there is a dimple where ur slot/line in the stator is located. Do I remove this dimple of coating or is that just the way it is on this one?
Does it also work with the cb350 four cilinder? Great video !!!
I have a test light similar to yours (it has a huge aliggator clip on it) but its for cars. Will it still work?
It should!
Man! You said a couple of ounces may come out when you remove the cover... I got 1-2 quarts. I’m new to vintage bikes so I’m not sure what’s going on. Any help would be appreciated. But these videos are super helpful In explaining the how to process. Thanks a lot.
Hit us up with tech questions via our website, www.common-motor.com, and we can go from there!
A couple ounces assuming the bike is sitting level, I'm guessing you had it on the kick stand
I have gotten a 1971 cl350 recently. Ever since ive had it the left cylinder will only half run at idle and thats pretty much it.. it backfires and blows a little smoke when i downshift. Coil has been replaced and so has the spark plug. Carb has been rebuilt but the diaphragms havent been replaced. Any suggestions on the problem? 23k miles and points dont look to far from new
You described the point gap as "irrelevant". The gap determines your dwell. It is relevant as the amount of time the points are closed is how the strength of the magnetic field in the coil is generated. When the points open allows the field to collapse initiating the spark. Additionally when given a range for point gap it is set at the upper limit because as the shoe wears the point gap decreases but stays within range and dwell limits. It is relevant.
+Sean Vierling Sir you are absolutely correct. However since these Hondas use one coil and one set of points per cylinder that is triggered by the camshaft running at 1/2 engine speed they have ample dwell time regardless of the gap value. Had this been a single set of points in a multi-cylinder engine with a distributor (I.E. an old American V8) then the dwell angle value is a very relevant, especially as RPM's increase. Actually I thought GM's way of setting points with a dwell meter back in the day was pretty clever, over setting just gap. Thanks for the input!
The opening is relevant. You must have sufficient opening . If not, during opening of the point, the ark will influens in a bad manner. For example, For maximum power from the coil, the arc has to shut down as fast as possible. A longer arc, will prevent this occuring. The arc can be unstable" the firing time vil alter a bit. The Points will not last as long as they should. Therefor is the dwell importent. .
Common Motor Collective I agree the gap matters. My 1971 CB175 ran better after I adjusted the points gap, which was too small. Before the idle was erratic.
Nicely explained and demonstrated! Very helpful!
Where can I find a seat like that? Is that custom or an available option at the time? I have a 70 cb350 and would love that seat!
great video thank you. I was not getting the light on but had not turned the switch to run. I then got left side lined up with the light but the light will not come on on the right, any ideas?
Question what kind of grease did you use?
I have a 1970 Honda SL 100, I changed the points and now it doesn't run. Will this work on a single cylinder points system?
Help me out please..you said they should be done every 1500 miles and the graphics said 15000..which one is it? Thanks.
not a word on dwell angle which is about getting the spark voltage correct ( points gap which you did not do) points gap + charging time for condensors
Pick-up coil is in the angle position of the crank? or the timing of the F-Mark Crank case of Magnet is given on any side of the pick-up coil magnet ?
What if I got a few cups of oil coming out when I took off the rotor cover
My 1980 CB 125 single has the index mark at the 6 o clock position, so apart from that this video will help me, thanks in advance, pun intended!
when the left cylinder fires...is the right piston coming up right after.. on its compression or exhaust stroke?
You can also usa a multimeter. Put it in the Ohm position and hold each end to one side of the contact breaker. When they are closed the reading will be a low figure. The moment the contacts slightly open, the multimeter will display a 1 (infinit resistance). That moment the spark plugs spark. Now adjust the base plate to have it at the correct moment.
when i moved the plate, the timing did not adjust. I also have spark even when the points are closed. Do I have something shorted or is my basket case of a bike likely modified with some form of electronic ignition? Timing is too far advanced and can't seem to change it. Bike sputters when kicking and doesn't start, kicks back really hard.
It's a 72 sl125 in Thailand with a shitty sheng-wey carb. Thing ran before miraculously but has been down for months now. No idea what killed it, but I bet it lost spark and the mechanics here just tried to bypass the mechanical ignition system. Is this even possible? I'm so confused.
Really well done video. Thank you. I have a quick question however: I purchased a continuity light (assume it's the same as your testing light), and it never turns off or on when rotating the engine... It is simply always on. This is my first experience using continuity lights so I'm pretty confused why my light doesn't turn on and off like yours does. Do you have any idea what I may be doing wrong? Thank you again.
Jake Bruce On a 350 if the right set of points are closed you won't have the test light go out.
the dwell or time the points are closed is the amount of time the coil has to charge the magnetic fields ... so point gap is very important for a good spark
Thank you so much for this! Could bad timing cause the bike not to start? My light is coming on a good inch to two inches before the LF mark. Thanks.
Yes. You need to adjust your timing.
Just to know, does it matter how long the light stays on after getting past the fire point? Only important that it only turns on at the exact correct moment?
Welp.. looks like I have been running on one cylinder. Right side never kicked off during my test.. come to think of it, I was having backfire on that side. Points come tomorrow, new bike by this weekend. Wish me luck!
Should you be able to rotate the engine back that easily? When trying to line up my marks, if I overshoot, I cannot and am forced to rotate through another cycle. I also have to hold it in place else it rotates through another 90 degrees or so. Working on a '75 CB360T.
Using a small breaker makes this easier. Bu Ideally you would not turn the engine backward.
At the points, at the 6 o'clock position is usually a felt piece that goes between the two posts. I see that you aren't running them...are they required?
ok, great video. I have no power from blue coil wire any ideas?
Great job! Thks for sharing.
still can't get mine to run on both cylinders. and it's driving me nuts. found a loose connection today at a blue wire connecting the points and the coil. figured that must be the problem. fixed that. still won't run on the right side. when i check for spark on the right, it's there. but when i put the plug in the cylinder head and turn it over, not a single fire even with starting fluid. how can it have gas and spark and not be firing? is the intake valve not opening? is the timing off a whole 360 degrees or something? is that even possible?? i ordered more parts from common motor -- my new favorite thing to do. got ignition coils and condensers and spark plugs and caps all coming. but i want to be out there riding all ready! getting sick of waiting for shipping over and over again every time i find something else wrong with this bike
Hey Andrew, message us on the support on our website! include some photos and everything you've tried and we will get it figured out! Include your phone number in case I need to call you.
@@Common-motor just watched this video again yesterday. can't seem to reset the timing without this video lol. i'd be so lost without you guys. you'd think i'd remember how to do it by now, but no lol
excelente explicacion gracias
I need help. I have lots of experience with 750/4 but I bought a 350/4 that needs tuned badly.
It needs carbs redone and floats also I think. I'm an old exotic car mechanic so no big deal. Where can I buy the parts for this please??
I don't have CB350F parts unfortunately but I know there's a lot of guys out there doing CB350F/CB400f parts I would send out some emails. I have most of the suspension, braking and electrical components because it shares the same stuff with the CB360 but no carb or engine parts at the moment. If you need used stuff I might try email the guys over at ricepaddy.com. They have a ton off stuff for awesome prices.
is their a way to use a dwell meter instead of feeler gauges?
i feel i get a more accurate (therefor, longer points life) getting it set NUTS ON with a dwell meter
I'm sure its possible, we haven't had to use a dwell meter over here but if you really want to dial in the timing a stroboscopic timing light can get you that last tiny bit of the way there. It just makes a mess, I know a few people out there have taken a old beat up cover inspection cover and drilled a hole in it so they aren't spraying oil everywhere.
Is it a different procedure for a CB175K4? Not only that but my test light has a black alligator clip so I guess it’s reverse of yours.
It is a bit different. Thats a video on our list to make but for now I'd check the service manual to get the proper steps.
How does the light come on when the point is open? It seems like the light should come on when the point is closed.
Please make a video on valve Clearence of honda CD 175....
Hello! Do you have some video of Honda XL 350? Thanks...
Can you do ignition timing while the engine is out of the frame with battery wired? That would eliminate coils and condenser.
What grease is recommended for the points cam?
TheGoatMumbler There is grease that comes with the ignition rebuild kit when you order it, but if you are playing along at home, we recommend White Lithium grease.
just put New points and condenser on, bike was running before, now only have power to left side of points?? please help!
Where does the wire connect inside the points mine just hanging just the new to this
Are there downsides to not using the Honda recommended method for setting static timing? If this works as well as it seems, it's surprising it's not a standard way to set timing.
when i set the point to the LF mark the test light is on then turns off at LF instead of being off then turning on at LF. do the spark plugs only fire when the points open or when they close to?
+neilnorg The plug fires when the points open
I've got a 68 250 that I'm currently sorting out. Original everything and that is half my problems heh. But eventually I'll bput a 350 topend on it and do some work to the engine. And another reason why electronic ignition will be going in as soon as possible lol
Idid every thing step by step and the left side still won't spark help please
Is it common for there to be oil that spills out of the alternator cover when you remove it?
Comman yes very little amount always leaks out
Exactly what mark said. A few ounces should come out if you have the proper amount in the bike. If a lot comes out you are probably on your side stand and need to be straight on on your center stand.
What type of grease are you using? Multi- purpose or engine assembly grease or something else altogether ? Thank you
You need points cam grease specifically. Should be able to find it at automotive shops. Multi purpose will be too thin.
Hey. Quick question. I have a 75 xl350. One banger. When I turn my ignition on I get no power running through the point cable to power my bulb tester.
+David Iliyn If the points are closed then the test light will not trigger on. Try opening the points gently with a small screw driver and see if the light kicks on.
1975 Honda XL350 has magneto ignition. There is no battery voltage to the points. You must use a self powered test light, continuity tester, or an ohm-meter when setting the static ignition timing. All the original 1970s era Honda Xl250K/XL350K series bikes are magneto ignition with breaker points.
The instructions in the video above are for bikes with battery and coil ignition triggered by breaker points.
Hi Ive just got a Honda CB175. I just wonder how will the bike respond if the ignition timing is off?
DeeBee Studio when the timing is off, then the bike will be tough to start and run poorly. Ignition timing must be set every 1500 miles.
Common Motor Collective thanks so much for your reply
Awesome - thanks. Need to do same thing on a XS400.
Do you like your Yamaha. There's a xs500 here in MO. I don't know much about them. Plus missing exhaust pipes. Thanks, Ben
PLEASE HELP!! I have a 1974 Honda cb360 when I got it it was only running on one cylinder I set the timing and it runs great at idle speed but when I went to take it for ride it started spitting and sputtering around 4k rpms and when I hit 5k the left cylinder started kicking out
Hi, I'm having a problem with my honda cb125. I cleaned the contacts of the ignition today, put everything back with no problems but the bike doesn't start! What could it be? Please help me!