I would love an osmanthus with a hint of dry cigar tobacco leaf and sandlewood...keeping the osmanthus as the uplift in the fragrance thru till the end. When I lived in southern Calif osmanthus(sweet olive) was commonly planted and when it blooms the night air is magic. I once followed the scent and finally found out where it was coming from...its a woody stemmed bush w/small ivory flowers........amazingly beautiful..nothing like jasmine..more tea like...........my favorite scent..the real thing. Its not easy to replicate properly.
Before all the quarantining I was in Neiman Marcus picking up a bottle of POAL and sampling the line per usual and I was trying to figure out what it was about FMs that seemed consistent from perfume to perfume. To me there seems to be a textural through-line of dry crackly spiciness, and now that you mention it, it is probably clove that has a lot to do with that. I love clove.
I'm a guy and Iris Poudre is probably my favorite Malle, so you aren't alone in wearing it. Re: what next from Malle ... I want a brilliant gardenia perfume. Have not found a single perfume that captures gardenia well. Would love to see JCE (or Giacobetti) take on a watery, fragrant, earthy gardenia. Or maybe Roucel do an in your face creamy & intoxicating fantasy gardenia. Also wouldn't mind seeing Pierre Bourdon return to Malle to make anything they want. French Lover and Iris Poudre are brilliant, would love to add a third before Bourdon is done making new things entirely.
Great video Eugene, Dominique made my all time favorite #1 scent Casual Friday Sandalwood/spice , - anise ? Very warm and comforting frag. Hard to find ... but I think you’d be impressed
I need to sample Malle’s fragrances. Guerlain vetiver is my favorite vetiver, currently, do you think vetiver extraordinaire would be a good fit? Hope you and your family are staying safe with all this going on. Thanks for the insightful content 👍🏼
In my opinion, their line is quite solid as for now. I really feel they managed to cover pretty much every genre with solid releases. They are my favorite house and I love or like everything they came up with. I am seriously thinking to start and collect all of them, as you did, and pledge my loyalty to them, as let's say, my "signature" perfume brand. Everything about them just screams class and quality as well as love for the art of perfumery. I just hope they won't start doing more perfumes just so they can sell more bottles. I feel in the later years their creations have gotten a tiny bit superficial when compared to their older ones. I would rather see them really concentrate on delivering new pieces of art even if that means getting one out every 2 to 3 years. With what they have right now I feel that releasing something every year would just make their quality go down. Of course, that's just my opinion. I just love this house so much and I don't want to see them selling themselves short.
On the cheaper end, because it's from the 90s, Carolina Herrera Herrera for Men. It mixes the green barbershop dna ala Platinum Egoiste with a creamy sandalwood, tobacco/neroli/cloves. It has a backbone but also a transparency to it and it's a bit spicy. Sits nicely between classic and modern perfumerie, nothing like their CH Men or CH Prive crap
I want a fougère, a proper one, but i guess it would be nothing new or too exciting to make Tea based scent as well, i quite like them if done right. Hope Bruno gets a chance to do another one. And as you said, a less sweet sandalwood would be great I just hope he deosn't release a molecular based scent, something that you barely smell but others around you pick it up. Knowing Malle though, he will stick with traditional scents hopefully
U Smells Good thanks Eugene, I’m looking into that and Either Eau D’Hermes, Bel ami, or Rocabar. I know Kristo loves Rocabar. Would love to have you break them down. Lol anyways wishful thinking haha
I want to see two new FMs, highlighting gardenia and jonquille. More in line with Carnal Flower, and Une Fleur de Cassie with a heavy dose of animalic facets like those from Bal a Versailles, MKK, Salome and Maai. Not a tonka-oriented one please. It is, however, regularly used since the beginning, albeit not always mentioned. Also not another oud one either.
Is it just me or are the first couple sprays from a fresh bottle the weakest and it just seems to get stronger as the bottle gets sprayed more and more.
120ml for real. There are a lot of bottles that I have bought and didn’t like and they didn’t last long the first few Wearing’s, then the more air that gets into the bottle and the more sprays I use up, the batter and stronger it seems. Sounds weird but it happens.
Perfumes are aging and getting stronger and richer. That's one of the reasons why vintage perfumes are usualy stronger. I have two bottles of Nicolai New York of the same formulation. The one that I used around half bottle is stronger and richer and new one is fresher.
Liking the fireside chat vibe you got going on here but good god man if you're going to put ideas in FM's head don't start with tonka bean! Ha. I'd still like to see FM do a high end aromatic fougere a la Azzaro Pour Homme but maybe with an animalic growl or some other twist to keep it compelling and justify the price point. Or perhaps something in the leather chypre realm. Or just put out something really, really weird and futuristic-get Oliver Valverde for that! It's about time FM worked with some new perfumers anyway, eh?
Chanel Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme used tonka but not based on tonka, Guerlain's Tonka Imperiale and Tom Ford's Fucking Fabulous are the best tonka fragrances in my opinion, I don't like Feve Delicieuse, it is too synthetic and not sophisticated in my opinion.
Honestly, I might be in the minority here, but Iris Poudre's dry-down reminds me way too much of Armani Code. In my opinion IP is Malle's Tonka. There I said it. BTW, I love the sparkling opening of IP, but the god damn Code thing keeps sneaking up on me. Eventually I sold my 50mL on Ebay; replaced with what I think is one of the worlds finest make-up accords: Lipstick Rose (benchmark is Misia). Also, Eugene, I'm a dude and don't mind wearing me some florals.
@@usmellsgood lol I bet, you're kinda all in with freddy at this point, but I have faith if anyone could pull off a tastefully done Tonka it would be FM.
Tonka in overwhelming number of designer fragrances is such a tacky and disgusting thing, I recently developed a strong antipathy to this tonka note. I strongly dislike Allure for this fucking tonka note.
Eugene what's up bro? Good video. Love your SOTD Terre D'Hermes EDT. Great video
Lyndon Earlington thanks Playboy
Bless you bro @u smells good.
Great content!!
I need Eugen's skincare routine for this video.
CHANEL L’HUILE ORIENT is literally the only thing i use
I loved the "My wife rates" series, she is so honest and cool. Would be nice to see more of that in the future. Love your videos, stay safe ✌
I would love an osmanthus with a hint of dry cigar tobacco leaf and sandlewood...keeping the osmanthus as the uplift in the fragrance thru till the end. When I lived in southern Calif osmanthus(sweet olive) was commonly planted and when it blooms the night air is magic. I once followed the scent and finally found out where it was coming from...its a woody stemmed bush w/small ivory flowers........amazingly beautiful..nothing like jasmine..more tea like...........my favorite scent..the real thing. Its not easy to replicate properly.
Robert Perricone sounds marvellous
JCEs Osmanthus for The Different Company is great.
Thanks Tina..Ill have to find the site/and check it out...have a good day..Bob
I'd like to see malle do another Jasmine scent or maybe even cherry blossom / lilac scent.
That creamy smokey sandlewood sounds gorgeous !
Robert Quinlan they don’t have a significant jasmine do they?
@@usmellsgood superstitious would be the only one I can think of unless I'm missing one.
Before all the quarantining I was in Neiman Marcus picking up a bottle of POAL and sampling the line per usual and I was trying to figure out what it was about FMs that seemed consistent from perfume to perfume. To me there seems to be a textural through-line of dry crackly spiciness, and now that you mention it, it is probably clove that has a lot to do with that. I love clove.
I'm a guy and Iris Poudre is probably my favorite Malle, so you aren't alone in wearing it. Re: what next from Malle ... I want a brilliant gardenia perfume. Have not found a single perfume that captures gardenia well. Would love to see JCE (or Giacobetti) take on a watery, fragrant, earthy gardenia. Or maybe Roucel do an in your face creamy & intoxicating fantasy gardenia.
Also wouldn't mind seeing Pierre Bourdon return to Malle to make anything they want. French Lover and Iris Poudre are brilliant, would love to add a third before Bourdon is done making new things entirely.
Glad to hear you're enjoying Iris Poudre. Gardenia JCE, Giacobetti, Roucel and Bourdon are all winners and some great ideas for future releases.
I’d love a violet and violet leaf
A dry tobacco would be awesome.
I always find tonka best in very small amounts. I would love to see the ultimate ylang fragrance and if anyone can do it, FM could. Cheers, Eugen.
Tonka is manageable in small doses, like in the Guerlinade but not a whole fragrance devoted to its theme for heavens sake
Terre Hermes is really good I need another bottle.thank you for introducing me to Fredrich Malle.i have been on a Amber kick in fragrances.
Terre is genius, as is Malle
@@usmellsgood yes it is definitely what do you think of an Amber and maybe sandalwood combo for Fredrich Malle?
Great video Eugene, Dominique made my all time favorite #1 scent Casual Friday Sandalwood/spice , - anise ? Very warm and comforting frag. Hard to find ... but I think you’d be impressed
Tobacco or sandalwood would be interesting. I enjoy Volutes from Diptyque. The EDT more than the EDP. Looking forward to some time with Malle.
I need to sample Malle’s fragrances. Guerlain vetiver is my favorite vetiver, currently, do you think vetiver extraordinaire would be a good fit? Hope you and your family are staying safe with all this going on. Thanks for the insightful content 👍🏼
In my opinion, their line is quite solid as for now. I really feel they managed to cover pretty much every genre with solid releases. They are my favorite house and I love or like everything they came up with. I am seriously thinking to start and collect all of them, as you did, and pledge my loyalty to them, as let's say, my "signature" perfume brand. Everything about them just screams class and quality as well as love for the art of perfumery. I just hope they won't start doing more perfumes just so they can sell more bottles. I feel in the later years their creations have gotten a tiny bit superficial when compared to their older ones. I would rather see them really concentrate on delivering new pieces of art even if that means getting one out every 2 to 3 years. With what they have right now I feel that releasing something every year would just make their quality go down. Of course, that's just my opinion. I just love this house so much and I don't want to see them selling themselves short.
Hermes - Vetiver Tonka?
On the cheaper end, because it's from the 90s, Carolina Herrera Herrera for Men. It mixes the green barbershop dna ala Platinum Egoiste with a creamy sandalwood, tobacco/neroli/cloves. It has a backbone but also a transparency to it and it's a bit spicy. Sits nicely between classic and modern perfumerie, nothing like their CH Men or CH Prive crap
that sounds quite enticing as long as its not along the lines of CHump Men
@@usmellsgood if you smelled Herrera for Men next to CH Men or Prive, you wouldn't even think it's from the same house. Solid for $35-40 USD
Where can I see the live stream you're talking about? Has it been recorded and uploaded somewhere?
You should try kenzo jungle L Elephant for women a very clove scent and is great and I think Dominique ropion is the perfumer that made that one
Clove and Ropion anything sounds good to me
Cuir d'Ange is magnificent...love it.........Jean Claude is superb
have you tried anything ellena recently did for le couvent des minimes?
I want a fougère, a proper one, but i guess it would be nothing new or too exciting to make
Tea based scent as well, i quite like them if done right. Hope Bruno gets a chance to do another one. And as you said, a less sweet sandalwood would be great
I just hope he deosn't release a molecular based scent, something that you barely smell but others around you pick it up. Knowing Malle though, he will stick with traditional scents hopefully
I'd love to see a green leathery sandalwood barbershop fougere, soapy shaving foam and all
I have heard of people saying that you need air in the bottle. Why is that?
Chanel did do Tonka with Allure Homme Extreme
ugghhh, the only Chanel bottle i ever sold.
Man U just had to bust out the Terre D’Hermes. Have you tried Eau intense vetiver and the Parfum versions? And if so any MAJOR differences?
TheHonestjbone I have all versions and love all except for Intense Vetiver, pleasant as it may be it just doesn’t add up
U Smells Good thanks Eugene, I’m looking into that and Either Eau D’Hermes, Bel ami, or Rocabar. I know Kristo loves Rocabar. Would love to have you break them down. Lol anyways wishful thinking haha
In any order, Bel Ami, Rocabar and Eau dHermes are the cats meow. Forget about Intense Vetiver.
U Smells Good thank you 💪
Make a tonka fragrance and sell it for $350. It's extravagant tonka bean grown in the inner Earth of the Antarctic in exotic metamorphic volcanic ash.
Kenny Benny If anyone can do it, Freddy can
I’ve been on the website trying to choose my next scent tfs
what do you own up to now?
I want to see two new FMs, highlighting gardenia and jonquille. More in line with Carnal Flower, and
Une Fleur de Cassie with a heavy dose of animalic facets like those from Bal a Versailles, MKK, Salome and Maai.
Not a tonka-oriented one please. It is, however, regularly used since the beginning, albeit not always mentioned. Also not another oud one either.
Chanel has never done Tonka? That is the entire Allure Home line.
kanger80 I suppose but that dreck doesn’t come to mind when I think Chanel
@@usmellsgood I LOVE the entire Chanel Allure line. I guess I am just a simple man lol
don’t let my dislike for the Allure range define your taste, I’m glad they work for you but I have a hard time with them.
Is it just me or are the first couple sprays from a fresh bottle the weakest and it just seems to get stronger as the bottle gets sprayed more and more.
Its just you and I … alone with our chips
120ml for real. There are a lot of bottles that I have bought and didn’t like and they didn’t last long the first few Wearing’s, then the more air that gets into the bottle and the more sprays I use up, the batter and stronger it seems. Sounds weird but it happens.
Perfumes are aging and getting stronger and richer. That's one of the reasons why vintage perfumes are usualy stronger.
I have two bottles of Nicolai New York of the same formulation. The one that I used around half bottle is stronger and richer and new one is fresher.
An orange and clove scent made by Ellena for Thanksgiving. :). Just my thoughts.
I really can’t stand that tobacco/honey/sweet combination(s). I don’t like sweet fragrances in general, though
Bleu Tonka Pour fucboi
hahahahaha
If you want a good tobacco you should try Pohadka from Ys Uzac.
Liking the fireside chat vibe you got going on here but good god man if you're going to put ideas in FM's head don't start with tonka bean! Ha. I'd still like to see FM do a high end aromatic fougere a la Azzaro Pour Homme but maybe with an animalic growl or some other twist to keep it compelling and justify the price point. Or perhaps something in the leather chypre realm. Or just put out something really, really weird and futuristic-get Oliver Valverde for that! It's about time FM worked with some new perfumers anyway, eh?
I have a feeling and wish he might reach out to dear ol’ Jacques Polge
That would be a dream come true, one i've hoped for many times and is now possible with Jacques no longer at Chanel.
Chanel Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme used tonka but not based on tonka, Guerlain's Tonka Imperiale and Tom Ford's Fucking Fabulous are the best tonka fragrances in my opinion, I don't like Feve Delicieuse, it is too synthetic and not sophisticated in my opinion.
"Why not do something around the note of clove?"...
Noir Epices?!
Imagine a Malle fig. And a Malle jasmin
Honestly, I might be in the minority here, but Iris Poudre's dry-down reminds me way too much of Armani Code. In my opinion IP is Malle's Tonka. There I said it. BTW, I love the sparkling opening of IP, but the god damn Code thing keeps sneaking up on me. Eventually I sold my 50mL on Ebay; replaced with what I think is one of the worlds finest make-up accords: Lipstick Rose (benchmark is Misia). Also, Eugene, I'm a dude and don't mind wearing me some florals.
🙄 Gaaaawd! No more tonka..please!! 🙏 #wackpack
never, but id still buy it lol
@@usmellsgood lol I bet, you're kinda all in with freddy at this point, but I have faith if anyone could pull off a tastefully done Tonka it would be FM.
Mr. Bean. Tonka Bean.
Gediminas Kontrimas 10/10
Tonka in overwhelming number of designer fragrances is such a tacky and disgusting thing, I recently developed a strong antipathy to this tonka note. I strongly dislike Allure for this fucking tonka note.