That was an amazing build. I would recommend wet sanding the surfaces of the FMC, then primer, sanding again smooth and a nice coat of grey then clear coat it would make it pop so good.
@helimech8152 I imagine your mind just went into autopilot mode, and the days turned into weeks and years before you knew ... I need to ask, is your new one seater 737 sim build still happening? I'm excited to see that.
I just purchased your plans for the FMC and printed it following your settings. I must say WOW! This is the best print I have ever done it turned out amazing! (Ender 3 v2 version) still need to print the buttons while waiting on the screens to arrive, great job man great job!
I want to say yeah I was thinking that my prints are amazing before see your settings. Execute annunciator was nearly impossible to print but tested with your settings and it is really amazing !
Hello william, Thank you! I can only imagine the effort that must have taken and then to get it certified. This project I had been planning for years. But u couldn't do it justice until the resin printer came along! Great to hear from you and Kind regards Karl
i wanted to make an FMC for the CJ4 for a few months now and didnt even know where to start. Seeing this video today made my whole week and the next too!
What a superb piece of work this is. I can’t imagine the work involved. Your explanations are superb - especially on setting up all the switches and leds. Brilliant.
Brilliant! I thought a lot about what you have already done. I am going with the cow you're returning with the milk! Congratulations for the perfect execution!
Was thinking the same! Got 6 3D printers eager to make this! I can follow tutorials, but creating is hard! Hats off to Heli Mech, great presenter and step by step!
This is great. The new update from PMDG 737-700 for MS2020 now includes pop-out displays. Meaning you don't need Prosim anymore. All you have to do is pop-out the FMC display and move it to your external FMC screen and voila!
Very nice job. Once I saw the clove hitch knot on your wiring harness I said to my self that this guy must hold an EASA B1 or B2 cert. Then I read the name of your channel then it all fit. Outstanding workmanship!
Karl, I think first type (flat) of buttons is most realistic. How about to print entiry button and paint black areas by oil pencil? And cover them by mat varnish to protect from deterioration? Also you can make button completely flat (by dense layer of lacquer)
Hi Artur, if this was solely for me, I would get out the CNC machine and fir the laser head and engrave the parts. But this was more to show how people can create this at home. With a push of a button (lol despite the hours of wiring). Thank you for sharing your knowledge, it's always appreciated. Kind regards Karl
Hello old friend! This one statement bought back so many fond memories and people I knew there. What a brilliant way to start my career! I hope this finds you well and what are you up to these days? Kind regards Karl (Clarkey)
I love what you are doing. Someday I hope to build my own home cockpit when I have space for it. I hope you will continue your UA-cam channel when you are finished building your cockpit. Most youtubers end their channels or post very limited once their sim pit is finished, but their users will never understand the beauty that you get when you are able to stop using a computer keyboard and mouse and can actually focus on sim piloting. Some flights on Vatsim or pilotedge with your cockpit would be nice. Cheers!
Hello, Sometimes i think this project will never end! I am currently redoing lots of old design making them much better! So theres plenty to do for now! Thank you and Kind Regards Karl
So awesome! FYI in all newer (Post 2002) NGs and MAXes, the EXEC light is white, not green. I only noticed because I stare at a real one all day haha. So amazing! Great work and I admire your wiring organization!
I would like to clarify a couple of things. The device being created here is a Multi-purpose Control and Display Unit (MCDU). In some ways it is like an asynchronous serial terminal, V T100, except there is a single TX port and 7 (or more) RX ports. ARINC Characteristic 739A-1 details the MCDU. ARINC Specifcation 429, Digital Information Transfer System (DITS), details the signaling used on the TX and RX ports. Both Flight Management Computers (FMC) are connected to the same TX port. Each FMC is connected to separate RX ports. I expect that the interface between your MCDU/Arduino and your FMC will be localised and not 429. I like your work. :)
Hello, You are spot on! I'm not sure how in the sim world it got called the FMC. Great knowledge you have there and nod my head in appreciation. Kind Regards Karl
Thank you, I was going to trial a full size resin print for the ultimate finish. But I never got around to it. However, I'm very happy with how this turned out with a filament printer. Kind Regards Karl
As I dont like the pure black color filament in my solutions i print out the face plates in any PLA color i have, then spraypaint the faceplates in the right black/greay color. In my fusion 360 i have ingraved what ever wordings/letters i want like in 0.5mm depth, then i have printed out the word/letter in 0.5 height in white with a 0.3 line mm bar on top just to hold the letters together. I put the letters inside and cut/sand off the line bar, ofcourse the Word is superglued on the engraving. Looks fine.
@@helimech8152 just a tip. I tried to print out the letters individually without the bar, and this was not a nice result, as it is imposible to place the letters exactly the same angle. If you need back light on the buttons, then you use clear pla on ie the buttons. You print out the word/letters twice, place the first word/letters in the button, spray paint the buttons, take out the sprayed Word/letters and replace it with the non sprayed painted word/letters, the second print. The cheapest solution i could figure out. Hope it made sence... Im not in a use for a FMC (i have my GARMIN G5000 only touch screen), but I enjoy your channel, really good inspiration. I still building My Cessna Citation Longitude, less soldering 😉
@@helimech8152 My GARMIN touch explained. Maybe a bit to complicated ua-cam.com/video/dXb1XgtTcvE/v-deo.html Point was, to make it "licens free" and not use HDMI ports and only based on cable network, besides some few pins on the Mega. It's based on 4 encoders each. I made a case with gears to encounter for double encoders 😋
Thank you, I really wanted this to showcase 3d printing detail on a larger part. It's not going to compete with the likes of FDS, but this has to be one of the cheapest ways to create a working unit. Kind regards Karl
Hello, this one took forever to produce. I'm also filming the throttle build videos and updating the design daily. Just started a cessna build. This has slowed me down, but once the throttle is completed. Smaller and quicker videos can be created. Thank you for taking the time to drop by and comment. Kind Regards Karl
@@helimech8152 Looking forward for next videos, Karl. Most interesting to see end of "throttle V3" story... I was really surprised to know about your future projects such as rudder...
Hello Daniel, the problem is that would require a320 software to prototype which I don't own. Have you searched UA-cam? I thought people were all over the DIY a320. Thanks for dropping by. Kind Regards Karl
Hi Paul, there's a working version on the website already. I personally thinknits better than the 737 v3. As It was built from scratch rather than making an existing design fit
The only thing, never solder wires directly to pcb it will go off in 2-3 years because of oxygen and water in the air. Try using connectors. In my experience for such wiring, is better to use D-sub or Idc. And FC-2,54mm cable for wiring. These connectors are really easy to solder to pcb and plug on a cable with one click. E.g. IDC-16 (KLS1-204-16-B KLS) for the cable and (L-KLS1-202-16-S-B) for pcb. This is really great solution if you have enough space as you had and it saves your time.
@@helimech8152 , thank you for your feedback! Hope it would be suitable for you. Such things I've used on my A-22 Foxbat simulator and it still works after 6 years while direct soldering lived only for 1,5) By the way, if you'll have any questions regarding such wiring solution, I'll be always glad to help you with advice. Best regards)
It's funny, I thought this would be a dud. Who wants to watch an In depth build, wire and programme. Apparently alot of people do. I am pleasantly surprised. Kind regards Karl
@@helimech8152 Hi! well, i was printing the base plate for the switches and led's, my printer decides to breakdown, actually, it is the first time it happened. initially the base plate looks very nice, only missing the support construction for the arduino. If you like, i can keep you update to date
@@helimech8152 Hi, small update, 3d printer is fixed. im making very good pogress at the moment, backplane is almost finished printing, Arduino mount is finised, it fits very well!
You did such an amazing job! And the result speaks for itself, because that DIY console you made is just 100.000% awesome, super incredible to look at and from where I'm looking at it, it seems hardly distinguishable from a genuine unit! One question, would it perhaps be possible to know the specific part number or name for those LED switches you used? Those look superbly handy for some of the DIY projects I'm doing over here too! Okay, I may have lied because I have another question! Was there a specific reason for why you opted to use a dedicated wire for each button instead of just using a matrix configuration to wire your buttons (into rows and columns)? Granted, you would have needed to add a single diode to each button, but it would have allowed you to wire all your 69 buttons (if I remember correctly?) to your Arduino using less than 20 pins, all for the small cost of slightly increasing the complexity of your button polling code. But especially if you are using interrupts and software debouncing the increase in code complexity wouldn't have been so bad i reckon. Not to mention the fact that it would have greatly reduced the complexity of your wireing loom *and* it would have saved you a great deal of time in the process!
Fantastic - I'm toying with the idea of moding this for an airbus mcdu. I bought you're package but I'm not sure how easy it would be to modify the faceplate. In the end I may just continue using webfmc on a tablet, but this sure would be a nice project.
Hello and thank you. This video was very item specific and I imagine not applicable to most. However, I'm hoping it will help those that produce there own unit.
Also would like a more realistic boeing yoke. The yokes are awful that clamp to a desk. $7,000 seems a little steep for the commercial sims. But if I could get a 3d printed one ☝🏻
This is excellent! Sell me one! Also great walkthrough, you have a natural, enthusiastic way at explainging things! I gave you a sub. If you decide to sell let me know!
Hello, I'm afraid due to my current contractual agreements I'm not allowed to sell items that require shipping or postal. But thank you for asking. Kind Regards Karl
Dam.. that looks for sure like the real thing. I probobly could not tell them a part if they was next to each other. Anyway,,, this really shows us that we need multi material printers and conductive filament. Granted, there is a way to make PCB with a 3D printer.
@@helimech8152 There is UV sensitive PCB ready to buy in bulk. You can literally just put them on the printer, expose it for 90 seconds, then edge away the copper, and you have a ... more or less, perfect circuit board. Its even possible to make a soldering mask the same way. Its dead simple, really the only hard part is to design the PCB. Its also possible to make two side PCB. Of cause all the vias need to be drill pressed. And if you want to have a non square PCB, you would need some kid of CNC machine. ua-cam.com/video/RudStbSApdE/v-deo.html You could also edge on Solder mask with the exactly the same method. While this may not be the best way of making a PCB, its dead simple and if you already own a 3D printer really cheap to start with. And its fairly fast. While ordering PCB online will be much cheaper and easier if you want a bunch of them, If you only prototyping at home, and want one now. this is fast, simple and relatively cheap. www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-200x150mm-Double-Sided-Prototyping/dp/B07R67G1FK/ref=sr_1_10?crid=5R5IDLNVLSEE&keywords=copper+PCB+board+UV&qid=1641487937&sprefix=copper+pcb+board+uv%2Caps%2C90&sr=8-10 That is £19 for 8 boards 200*150mm dual sided precoated with etching solution. UV activated solder mask is dirt cheap. So its pretty much just 4 exposures, drilling cutting, then a bath to plate the holes. The sort of... complicated bit, if you want non square finished boards, a CNC machine (or possible a hand router) is really the only viable way. But if you can design the boards square, Its pretty much just making how many boards you need on one PCB, drill it, cut it up, plate it, then it finished.
Great video! I'm starting out with an A320 MCDU for the Fenix, I'll need to undock the CDU screen and bring it onto the LCD for my MCDU however I'm on the fence about what board I use...
wow finally i found this amazing channel. Great work. I just need that stuff also for the airbus until i wait for the release of the PMDG. But first of al i need a 3d Printer 🙂
Hi Dennis, Thank you for the kind words! If you are thinking about any of these panels then a 3d printer is a must. I try to stay away from Airbus projects as there are so many friends that cover them already. Kind Regards Karl
Amazing stuff as usual. Are you familiar with wire wrapping? In this kind of scenarios where you have hundreds of pins, I think it's a much easier technique to use wire wrap than soldering. Check it out if you can.
Fernando, i looked it up and it's a very nice and easy solution. I think i will buy the wire wrap pen. Looks easy. There is a youtube video wire wrap 101, that explains the technique very well. Thanks for the hint. ua-cam.com/video/IXvEDM-m9CE/v-deo.html
If you wire wrap it get ready for some headaches, especially if you need to rewire it for some reason. Soldering is far easier and quicker, both in the first build and if you need to rewire it. If the wire you need to move is below another wire on a pin then that other wire would need to come off first, then back on afterwards.
That was an amazing build. I would recommend wet sanding the surfaces of the FMC, then primer, sanding again smooth and a nice coat of grey then clear coat it would make it pop so good.
As far as youtubers go, you are one of my favourites. Doing all that painstaking work and still keeping a smile on your face.
Haha, looking back, that was indeed a massive amount of work! I didnt realise that at the time!
@helimech8152 I imagine your mind just went into autopilot mode, and the days turned into weeks and years before you knew ...
I need to ask, is your new one seater 737 sim build still happening? I'm excited to see that.
I just purchased your plans for the FMC and printed it following your settings. I must say WOW! This is the best print I have ever done it turned out amazing! (Ender 3 v2 version) still need to print the buttons while waiting on the screens to arrive, great job man great job!
Awesome! Thank you! The ender 3 does a great job and very much a great printer for the price!
I want to say yeah I was thinking that my prints are amazing before see your settings. Execute annunciator was nearly impossible to print but tested with your settings and it is really amazing !
Nice job! I worked on the software for the actual 737 LCDCDU and FMC, and I'd say that's a pretty faithful rendition.
Hello william, Thank you! I can only imagine the effort that must have taken and then to get it certified. This project I had been planning for years. But u couldn't do it justice until the resin printer came along! Great to hear from you and Kind regards Karl
i wanted to make an FMC for the CJ4 for a few months now and didnt even know where to start. Seeing this video today made my whole week and the next too!
and did you make it ? :P
Good Luck, Hopefully you can use my design and adapt it to suit the CJ4! Kind Regards Karl
@@DarthZackTheFirstI not yet, didnt really got time. and im still looking for a other display, as i am not able to conect a VGA-Cable to my GPU.
You spent a lot of time making both the FMC and the video.... greatest thanks to you.
Why oh why can I only give this one like. As always, loving your work and commitment.
Thank you and humbled. Kind regards Karl
WOW, impressive work. Hopefully I can achieve 10% of your skill in my lifetime!
Thank you sir, humbled by your kind words. Karl
What a superb piece of work this is. I can’t imagine the work involved. Your explanations are superb - especially on setting up all the switches and leds. Brilliant.
You can use one analog input and multiple buttons using different resistors!
Ho Tron, Thats a very clever idea!
Tip about those LCD screens. When the labeling on the back is right side up the image will be right side up.
Thank you!
Brilliant! I thought a lot about what you have already done. I am going with the cow you're returning with the milk! Congratulations for the perfect execution!
Thank you! It's been a very fun journey so far!
Absolutely awesome, but I would need that for an A32NX.
Was thinking the same! Got 6 3D printers eager to make this! I can follow tutorials, but creating is hard! Hats off to Heli Mech, great presenter and step by step!
This is great.
The new update from PMDG 737-700 for MS2020 now includes pop-out displays. Meaning you don't need Prosim anymore. All you have to do is pop-out the FMC display and move it to your external FMC screen and voila!
but how you will connect PMDG with mobiflight and MSfs2020? Iam stuck here..
found it.. thanks!.. i did not check custom variables for msfs2020 and pmdg
I'm building one, read this comment, and have questions. Don't you still need Prosim to map all the buttons?
I’ll be doing this next
Month
Jolly guy... Smiling along while watching it.
Great Product. i kinda like the idea of wiring it all.
Fast-forward through a Karl-Sim video??? Heresy!!! Great stuff Karl - as ever.
Chuckle, there are parts in this video that just bored me having to edit them. But your enthusiasm is fantastic. Thank you.
Very nice job. Once I saw the clove hitch knot on your wiring harness I said to my self that this guy must hold an EASA B1 or B2 cert. Then I read the name of your channel then it all fit. Outstanding workmanship!
Spot on! Yes i seem to do a lot of wiring at work and at home!
Karl, I think first type (flat) of buttons is most realistic. How about to print entiry button and paint black areas by oil pencil? And cover them by mat varnish to protect from deterioration? Also you can make button completely flat (by dense layer of lacquer)
Hi Artur, if this was solely for me, I would get out the CNC machine and fir the laser head and engrave the parts. But this was more to show how people can create this at home. With a push of a button (lol despite the hours of wiring). Thank you for sharing your knowledge, it's always appreciated. Kind regards Karl
Karl just stunning mate u do a great job
Thanks a lot for sharing with us .
Thank you, motivation +1000!
I remember you from 1 regt, I was watching thinking I know that guy from somewhere! Small world, great work on the content 👍🏻
Hello old friend! This one statement bought back so many fond memories and people I knew there. What a brilliant way to start my career! I hope this finds you well and what are you up to these days?
Kind regards Karl (Clarkey)
I love what you are doing. Someday I hope to build my own home cockpit when I have space for it. I hope you will continue your UA-cam channel when you are finished building your cockpit. Most youtubers end their channels or post very limited once their sim pit is finished, but their users will never understand the beauty that you get when you are able to stop using a computer keyboard and mouse and can actually focus on sim piloting. Some flights on Vatsim or pilotedge with your cockpit would be nice. Cheers!
Hello, Sometimes i think this project will never end! I am currently redoing lots of old design making them much better! So theres plenty to do for now! Thank you and Kind Regards Karl
wow, great job! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
So awesome! FYI in all newer (Post 2002) NGs and MAXes, the EXEC light is white, not green. I only noticed because I stare at a real one all day haha. So amazing! Great work and I admire your wiring organization!
these buttons are great work
Thank You!
I would like to clarify a couple of things.
The device being created here is a Multi-purpose Control and Display Unit (MCDU). In some ways it is like an asynchronous serial terminal, V T100, except there is a single TX port and 7 (or more) RX ports.
ARINC Characteristic 739A-1 details the MCDU. ARINC Specifcation 429, Digital Information Transfer System (DITS), details the signaling used on the TX and RX ports.
Both Flight Management Computers (FMC) are connected to the same TX port. Each FMC is connected to separate RX ports.
I expect that the interface between your MCDU/Arduino and your FMC will be localised and not 429.
I like your work. :)
Hello, You are spot on! I'm not sure how in the sim world it got called the FMC. Great knowledge you have there and nod my head in appreciation. Kind Regards Karl
Espetacular, parabéns pelo trabalho, impressionante, sempre!
What a beautiful work! Congrats! Thanks for sharing: I plan to do a similar project for A320 series, so it helps a lot!
That's great to hear! Hopefully I have given you a few ideas. Thank you and Kind regards Karl
Just WOW!
Hi Marc, and thank you!
Great vid - thank you.
Hi Dan, thank you.
Hola Heli como siempre impresionante tu trabajo muchas felicidades ya pronto estare comenzando el proyecto un abrazo y saludos desde mexico
Woww!!! You are a genius!!! That looks so realistic... just mindblowing 🤯🤯🤯👍😁
Great video, Karl! The CDU looks excellent! 👍
Thank you, I was going to trial a full size resin print for the ultimate finish. But I never got around to it. However, I'm very happy with how this turned out with a filament printer. Kind Regards Karl
Spectacular!!! Fantastic work!!! Congratulations
Thank you!
Wow
Congratulations
Thank You!
People are really capable of doing wonderful things.
Thank you Daniel.
Fantastic!
Thank you
As I dont like the pure black color filament in my solutions i print out the face plates in any PLA color i have, then spraypaint the faceplates in the right black/greay color. In my fusion 360 i have ingraved what ever wordings/letters i want like in 0.5mm depth, then i have printed out the word/letter in 0.5 height in white with a 0.3 line mm bar on top just to hold the letters together. I put the letters inside and cut/sand off the line bar, ofcourse the Word is superglued on the engraving. Looks fine.
That's a great alternative.
@@helimech8152 just a tip. I tried to print out the letters individually without the bar, and this was not a nice result, as it is imposible to place the letters exactly the same angle.
If you need back light on the buttons, then you use clear pla on ie the buttons. You print out the word/letters twice, place the first word/letters in the button, spray paint the buttons, take out the sprayed Word/letters and replace it with the non sprayed painted word/letters, the second print.
The cheapest solution i could figure out.
Hope it made sence... Im not in a use for a FMC (i have my GARMIN G5000 only touch screen), but I enjoy your channel, really good inspiration. I still building My Cessna Citation Longitude, less soldering 😉
@@helimech8152 My GARMIN touch explained. Maybe a bit to complicated
ua-cam.com/video/dXb1XgtTcvE/v-deo.html
Point was, to make it "licens free" and not use HDMI ports and only based on cable network, besides some few pins on the Mega. It's based on 4 encoders each.
I made a case with gears to encounter for double encoders 😋
Thanks for this. Glad to see you still have some of the old heli wire left mate.
Hello! I have tons of the stuff! Not sure what I'll do with it all. Glad to see you are still following along. Kind regards karl
very detailed video, you even care about putting the handle on the FMC itself, super detailed, amazing
Thank you, I really wanted this to showcase 3d printing detail on a larger part. It's not going to compete with the likes of FDS, but this has to be one of the cheapest ways to create a working unit. Kind regards Karl
Fantastic video, Thank You for sharing !
Thank you!
Damn.. Soo cool.
Thank You!
Karl Thank you so much for this incredibly educational tutorial!!! Its what I needed
Glad it was helpful! I will now try to create the PCB to make it even simpler for people. Kidn Regards Karl
Another piece of art, keep on going.
Thank you!
OMG! You are a monster! WOW! Respect!
Woooow
Tahnk you!
Finally, new video, Karl. We missed you)))
Hello, this one took forever to produce. I'm also filming the throttle build videos and updating the design daily. Just started a cessna build. This has slowed me down, but once the throttle is completed. Smaller and quicker videos can be created. Thank you for taking the time to drop by and comment. Kind Regards Karl
@@helimech8152 Looking forward for next videos, Karl. Most interesting to see end of "throttle V3" story... I was really surprised to know about your future projects such as rudder...
Great video. I hope someone one day can do one for airbus. I’m going to try this project out
Hello Daniel, the problem is that would require a320 software to prototype which I don't own. Have you searched UA-cam? I thought people were all over the DIY a320. Thanks for dropping by. Kind Regards Karl
I really need a 737 max quadrant
Hi Paul, there's a working version on the website already. I personally thinknits better than the 737 v3. As It was built from scratch rather than making an existing design fit
The only thing, never solder wires directly to pcb it will go off in 2-3 years because of oxygen and water in the air. Try using connectors. In my experience for such wiring, is better to use D-sub or Idc. And FC-2,54mm cable for wiring. These connectors are really easy to solder to pcb and plug on a cable with one click. E.g. IDC-16 (KLS1-204-16-B KLS) for the cable and (L-KLS1-202-16-S-B) for pcb. This is really great solution if you have enough space as you had and it saves your time.
Hello and great to hear from you, Thank you for sharing your knowledge and advice! Kind Regards Karl
@@helimech8152 , thank you for your feedback! Hope it would be suitable for you. Such things I've used on my A-22 Foxbat simulator and it still works after 6 years while direct soldering lived only for 1,5) By the way, if you'll have any questions regarding such wiring solution, I'll be always glad to help you with advice. Best regards)
Another great one! Don´t know if you noticed, but you made a boo-boo... key A was acting as key Z....... 🤣 no? my mistake then...! great work.
haha, no I didn't notice. I'm using that unit for the 737SS, so I must have corrected it along the way.
very nice job !!!!! but i think if you diy pcb board for all button It will be better
Indeed, thats the plan!
Yes
Thank you
sir, I am speachless, absolutely brilliant
Thank you
this is so awesome. great and extensive how-to!
It's funny, I thought this would be a dud. Who wants to watch an In depth build, wire and programme. Apparently alot of people do. I am pleasantly surprised. Kind regards Karl
Multiplexer boards? That would really cut down on the pin requirements
Totally Genius!!
Thank you, I am very pleased with this design!
Awesome, will definitely have to make one of these one day, when I have the time! 😂
It really is all about the time, cheap to build, but expensive in time! Kind Regards Karl
you are a monster man! great
Top Job as always!
Thank you!
Great job..
Thank you
Subscribed, looking out for updates
Good luck!
Wow this is seriously ambitious! Super impressive!
Hi David, Thank you!
Amazing work! Thanks for sharing!
Thank You!
You're a flamin genius mate!
Thank you, that made me smile!
Thank you for making your awesome design available! i purchased the design, as we speak im printing the parts :)
Hi Michiel, How is the build going? Its a bit of a slog in parts!
@@helimech8152 Hi! well, i was printing the base plate for the switches and led's, my printer decides to breakdown, actually, it is the first time it happened. initially the base plate looks very nice, only missing the support construction for the arduino. If you like, i can keep you update to date
@@helimech8152 Hi, small update, 3d printer is fixed. im making very good pogress at the moment, backplane is almost finished printing, Arduino mount is finised, it fits very well!
You did such an amazing job! And the result speaks for itself, because that DIY console you made is just 100.000% awesome, super incredible to look at and from where I'm looking at it, it seems hardly distinguishable from a genuine unit!
One question, would it perhaps be possible to know the specific part number or name for those LED switches you used? Those look superbly handy for some of the DIY projects I'm doing over here too!
Okay, I may have lied because I have another question! Was there a specific reason for why you opted to use a dedicated wire for each button instead of just using a matrix configuration to wire your buttons (into rows and columns)?
Granted, you would have needed to add a single diode to each button, but it would have allowed you to wire all your 69 buttons (if I remember correctly?) to your Arduino using less than 20 pins, all for the small cost of slightly increasing the complexity of your button polling code. But especially if you are using interrupts and software debouncing the increase in code complexity wouldn't have been so bad i reckon. Not to mention the fact that it would have greatly reduced the complexity of your wireing loom *and* it would have saved you a great deal of time in the process!
Fantastic - I'm toying with the idea of moding this for an airbus mcdu. I bought you're package but I'm not sure how easy it would be to modify the faceplate. In the end I may just continue using webfmc on a tablet, but this sure would be a nice project.
Hello, if you have the CAD files than i would think it would be quite easy to convert, or even use the idea to create a new version. good luck Karl
Great work Karl! It was a nice video to just put on and chill with since I dont need a 737 FMC.
Hello and thank you. This video was very item specific and I imagine not applicable to most. However, I'm hoping it will help those that produce there own unit.
@@helimech8152 it still showcases your great work. I hope it helps others too, I know a lot of time and energy went into this.
That s awesome! I love the British accent
Also would like a more realistic boeing yoke. The yokes are awful that clamp to a desk. $7,000 seems a little steep for the commercial sims. But if I could get a 3d printed one ☝🏻
Hi Paul, Been there and done that! Yokes Check! Single and dual!
I'm a fan of your channel. Your works are incredible. Congratulations!
Hello and humbled, Thank you!
Any plans of doing the same for the 320 MCDU?
This is excellent! Sell me one! Also great walkthrough, you have a natural, enthusiastic way at explainging things! I gave you a sub. If you decide to sell let me know!
Hello, I'm afraid due to my current contractual agreements I'm not allowed to sell items that require shipping or postal. But thank you for asking. Kind Regards Karl
Im impressed, this video is pure inspiration, well done bro
I appreciate that! and Thank you.
Great project!
Hi matt, this helped dial in the techniques for some amazing projects underway right now!
It's a dumb question but, how does the FMC show the FMC menu of the game in real time ?
I know I would never be able to do that! Lol…. Fully impressed.
Thank you, and the upcoming months should see 3rd parties making this even simpler to build.
im so waiting to see a board version!!!!! got a sub from me!!! great job!!!
As soon as I get to a country that has a postal service! PCB's are the first thing I will create for all my designs!
Dam.. that looks for sure like the real thing. I probobly could not tell them a part if they was next to each other.
Anyway,,, this really shows us that we need multi material printers and conductive filament.
Granted, there is a way to make PCB with a 3D printer.
Hello, and how cool would it be to produce PCB's on a 3d printer. I have a laser on the way, so hoping that will produce good parts too.
@@helimech8152 There is UV sensitive PCB ready to buy in bulk. You can literally just put them on the printer, expose it for 90 seconds, then edge away the copper, and you have a ... more or less, perfect circuit board.
Its even possible to make a soldering mask the same way. Its dead simple, really the only hard part is to design the PCB.
Its also possible to make two side PCB. Of cause all the vias need to be drill pressed.
And if you want to have a non square PCB, you would need some kid of CNC machine.
ua-cam.com/video/RudStbSApdE/v-deo.html
You could also edge on Solder mask with the exactly the same method.
While this may not be the best way of making a PCB, its dead simple and if you already own a 3D printer really cheap to start with. And its fairly fast.
While ordering PCB online will be much cheaper and easier if you want a bunch of them, If you only prototyping at home, and want one now. this is fast, simple and relatively cheap.
www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-200x150mm-Double-Sided-Prototyping/dp/B07R67G1FK/ref=sr_1_10?crid=5R5IDLNVLSEE&keywords=copper+PCB+board+UV&qid=1641487937&sprefix=copper+pcb+board+uv%2Caps%2C90&sr=8-10
That is £19 for 8 boards 200*150mm dual sided precoated with etching solution.
UV activated solder mask is dirt cheap.
So its pretty much just 4 exposures, drilling cutting, then a bath to plate the holes.
The sort of... complicated bit, if you want non square finished boards, a CNC machine (or possible a hand router) is really the only viable way.
But if you can design the boards square, Its pretty much just making how many boards you need on one PCB, drill it, cut it up, plate it, then it finished.
Do you sell the CAD files? Do you sell the circuit diagram? Do you sell the finish product? I love your videos.
Mind. Blown.
Haha, thank you and made me smile. Kind regards Karl
You are awesome!
Thank you! Kind regards Karl
Would like to see a fully video to create an a320 Autopilot
Hi Bastian, this seems to be a popular request! If I get a spare couple of hours I'll see what I can do!
@@helimech8152 thank you so much😘😘
Magnifique travail ;) 🤩
Merci beaucoup et cordialement Karl
this is epic congratulations man
Thanks!
Wow
Thank you!
Great video! I'm starting out with an A320 MCDU for the Fenix, I'll need to undock the CDU screen and bring it onto the LCD for my MCDU however I'm on the fence about what board I use...
Hi, I cannot help with this as i have never flown the A320 or seen what software it uses. Perhaps the mobiflight Discord might be able to help?
Brilliant! Great idea and implementation.
Humbled and thank you! Karl
Hi there! amazing job!! i'm wondering if you can show the workflow about the resin printed and wax text. Thank!
Hi That was in the last video, creating knobs. Kind regards Karl
You are genius my friend !!!!!
Humbled, Thank you Sir!
nice work, i like this
I’m screaming right now watching him setup MobiFlight with the wrong pin numbers based on row number in Excel!!! It’s hurting so bad!
wow finally i found this amazing channel. Great work. I just need that stuff also for the airbus until i wait for the release of the PMDG. But first of al i need a 3d Printer 🙂
Hi Dennis, Thank you for the kind words! If you are thinking about any of these panels then a 3d printer is a must. I try to stay away from Airbus projects as there are so many friends that cover them already. Kind Regards Karl
amazing work. well done, great video
Thank You! Kind Regards Karl
Amazing stuff as usual. Are you familiar with wire wrapping? In this kind of scenarios where you have hundreds of pins, I think it's a much easier technique to use wire wrap than soldering. Check it out if you can.
Wiring wrapping? You mean the old telephone inside plant wire wrap method? Be ages since I've done any of that.
Fernando, i looked it up and it's a very nice and easy solution. I think i will buy the wire wrap pen. Looks easy.
There is a youtube video wire wrap 101, that explains the technique very well.
Thanks for the hint.
ua-cam.com/video/IXvEDM-m9CE/v-deo.html
Hi Fernando, I really hopemthus works for you, but it has its flaws. I'm now old fashioned and stuck in my ways lol
If you wire wrap it get ready for some headaches, especially if you need to rewire it for some reason. Soldering is far easier and quicker, both in the first build and if you need to rewire it.
If the wire you need to move is below another wire on a pin then that other wire would need to come off first, then back on afterwards.
Super!!!
Fantastic content as ever Karl!
Thank you! This turned out to take way longer than it ever should due to filming mistakes lol. Kind regards karl
Excellent work !
Thank you sir!