Good ole GM engineering. Made replacing bulbs a hassle. Old model tahoes you would just pull two metal bars out and the whole headlight assembly came out completely. Thanks GM
2007 Chevy Tahoe..was able to replace day time running light on passenger side without removing wheel well liner. I removed the two screws on top holding headlight assembly and I removed the six screws holding front grill on. Once these eight screws were removed I was able to pull headlight and grill assembly out a couple inches. Not difficult reaching running light once grill and headlight assembly pulled out a bit. Entire job took less than 30 mins.
2013 Tahoe drivers side DRL I did it your way took the screws out with a cordless drill change the bulb and put it back together less then 10 min. thanks
Even after removing the upper 10 mm bolts, loosening the 10mm below, and moving the light unit as far foward as was possible I was still unable to get my hand far enough down behind the lamp assembly from the top to manipulate the DRL socket. So I removed the six 10mm bolts across the top of the grille assembly, this allowed me to flex the grille outward enough to fairly easily reach the DRL socket from the side towards the radiator. There was also enough room to allow both hands to be used which made replacing the bulb so much easier. And no bleeding involved.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video, just installed Sylvania 3157 LEDs that are guaranteed for life so hopefully I won’t have to do this again. Thanks again!
@@S.0.G I second this about the LEDs. Best case, have someone with small hands to help. Also don't forget when you're op checking, the vehicle needs to be in neutral for the lights to come on (meaning they're not going to come on if you check while in Park).
Our 2012 Tahoe has been more problematic with the "little things" than any vehicle I have ever owned! This design is yet one more example of going backwards!!! I have had multiple Silverado, GMC Sierra, and Yukon XLs since 2000, and all of them were EASILY accessible - without any tools even being required! They had to retaining pins that simply pushed down and turned 90 degrees to remove the entire headlight assembly - easy access to DRLs, Headlights, Marker lights - any front bulb you needed to replace could EASILY be completely done without tools in less than 10 minutes MAX! As much as I have loved my GM Trucks and SUVs, this very well might be my last GM product. Broken plastic door handles and lift gate handle, broken plastic armrests inside, radio buttons falling off, etc - and it is the most expensive vehicle I've ever bought too! Thanks for posting this video, as the hidden 3rd bolt would never have been intuitive - and still trying to figure out why it was even necessary - could have had a retaining receiver clip like the inside has.
I agree! Not sure why GM decided to step away from those retaining pins from the earlier 2000s. Other than this I haven’t had anything else go wrong with our Tahoe. Replaced the serpentine belt which was a piece of cake. Will be doing a tune up on it soon so we’ll see how that goes. Our SUV has been very reliable and it’s a tank in the snow! My only other complaint is the wearing of the radio buttons. Thanks for the feedback and hope this helped!
Good video but have your wife or 10 year old kid around to reach in and remove the bulb socket. My extra large hands took a beating. Bruised, cut and scraped, I managed to complete the job. Believe me it took some serious determination to finish the job.
"In jail" HA HA HA HA, Ive always driven old cars 80s and 90s just for this reason in the video,a buddy of mine drives a new Camry and the other day we were talking about replacing something minor like a bulb and i told him i would help him since I'm handy with cars and such,he told me he had seen a video where most of the front bumper had to be removed,i thought he was crazy until i checked it out by myself,i had to pass, I'm not doing that and risking tearing something up on his new plastic car,cars dont need cameras or 10 airbags or 70 miles of wires and I'm guessing its just gonna get worse,no thanks.
Thank you so much for this.. Everyone else made it seem so dern difficult I wasn't sure I could do it myself.. With your easy instruction I'm positive I can 🤗
I just did it. Third bolt doesn’t need to come all the way out, just loosen it and the “c” comes clean. Tried to do it without getting third bolt. You can definitely get the two top lights but not the small lower DRL. Feel good if you do this and save yourself 500 bucks at Chevy
Thanks for posting! I found that the third (bottom) headlamp assembly bolt just needs to be loosened, not removed. The assembly has a slot that slides down onto the bolt, not a hole that needs to be lined up, at least on my 2013 Tahoe. Some folks say they didin't have to go through the wheel.well or loosen that lower bolt, which means either it's a different design, or that slotted tab broke off. As long as the headlight isn't bouncing around while you drive, you probably don't need to worry about that bottom bolt. Thanks again!
I tried reaching the bulb socket from the top going behind the assembly after loosening all the bolts like you show. That's the painful way and I couldn't really get a grip on the socket to turn it far enough to remove it. I found it's easier to take the 6 bolts out across the top of the grill and upper piece of the bumper skin and pull the grill out to reach though from the grill area from the inside edge of the headlight assembly and the DRL socket is right there and easy to turn. I used LEDs in hopes I'll never have to change them again.
Thank you, Jimminy Christmas!!!! I don't suppose you could show me a diagram showing me where the rear washer hose runs from next to the fuse box to the rear wiper???? I can not find one.
How many light bulbs are in a 2012 chevy headlight? I have already replaces the 9005 and H11 but I need to change the daytime running light. I want to make sure I change the rest because it is such a hassel.
I always take off the boots for the top of the grille and fascia and then the headlight comes out entirely. I always do both drl bulbs and the 194 corner marker bulbs while I’m there!!! Good video forsure
Not sure if it’s mentioned but there is plenty of room to reach your hand next to the radiator to release and replace the bulb socket. Not necessary at all to release the grille.
Got one out in my Wife's Tahoe. I am going LED for sure. Thanks for the easy video. But for sure I agree with K Male about that....LOL... Take care all.
2013 Tahoe LT. They had a huge engine compartment to work with, but some overpaid engineer decided that jumping through hoops to change a light bulb wouldn't be a problem. I love my Tahoe, but this is just plain stup!d. I figured that since the driver side bulb had burned out, the passenger side was probably not far behind, so I replaced them both. I used the Sylvania Silverstar 3157 bulbs. These are SIGNIFICANTLY brighter than the standard 3157 -BUT- may have a shorter life. Time will tell, I guess. (And, warranty is 1 year, not lifetime.) I know that some kind of electrical accommodation must be made to use LED bulbs, but I'm thinking about going that route if/when these burn out. FIRST, for those who are unaware: You should not touch auto bulbs with your bare fingers as the oil from your skin can cause premature failure. I use the Venom Steel gloves from Walmart or online because I have never ripped one, which I can't say about other brands. This video helped me get a good start and gave me an idea of the overall process. The posts about removing the 10mm bolts across the front of the grill saved the day because I just barely was able to get it done with the grill loosened. Lastly, I couldn't simply push the fender liner out of the way, so I used a bungie cord from one of the bolt holes of the liner to the wheel to hold back the liner so that I was not fighting it to get at that hidden 3rd bolt. My Tahoe has 20" wheels, so vehicles with smaller wheels might find it easier to just push the liner out of the way. THANK YOU S.O.G.!
I hooked my new ones up pass side worked then I hooked up driver side amd now pass lights dont work? amy answers my kit also came with a wiring harness but it did not call for what would be the problem? amh one....
To test your “Daytime” running lights, you don’t wait until dark. On a level surface, place ramps in front of your front wheels (or otherwise do a great job of ensuring the truck can’t drive forward), start the truck and place it in gear. Do NOT touch the throttle, do NOT activate the parking brake (since that shuts off the DRL circuit). If you have a helper, just have them put it in gear, of course. If you don’t, exit the vehicle with the door open, quickly check to see that your new bulb is working and then reverse all the steps I mentioned above (truck in park, shut it off, etc.). L8R
Talk about over-complicating things and suggesting dangerous methods. Simply pull up to any garage door, wall, or another vehicle and look through the windshield jeez.
Great video very precise. Appreciate it… Could Chevy make it any harder to remove and change a lightbulb? Thanks again. I have a 2012 LTZ which has the same lights. I am going led for sure. Thanks again. You got another subscriber.
It's easier to just leave the lower screw off. Doesn't affect the headlight at all. My 2009 had one missing and I removed the other, much easier to switch bulbs.
Hello very helpful video but I have a few ???s 1. I heard your not supposed to touch the bulbs with bare hands? 2. Why do you only test at night when they are DRL?🤔 lol 3. Ok I forgot the last ? 🤦♀️ maybe it will come back to me!!!
Mel, you aren’t suppose to but it’s impossible with the amount of room I was working with lol and idk what i was thinking honestly I was in the middle of doing led headlight bulbs on another car and must’ve got something mixed up there 😂 let me know if you remember that 3rd Q 👍
I did mine on 13 Avalanche yesterday. Just the DRLs. What a pain in the ass. Put in the LED expensive bulbs Unbolted the grill too and the bottom bolt bracket still broke off on both sides of light housing. The 3rd break light is out and its 600.
600?! Thats crazy. Id check the fuses first. LEDs don't go out often but if it is out I think you have to replace the whole housing and if thats the case I'd check on ebay lol but 600 is crazy man hopefully you find a much cheaper option!
Hi , may i ask whats the type LED light bulb socket you were using . i guess the DRL have two functions ( DRL and indicator ) I like to change both in orange LED's .
Ok, once you watch this video and follow the suggested steps right up until you attempt to reach your hand / arm anywhere there’s a gap which was not possible for me, then watch this next video which glosses over those first steps but makes all the sense in the world on how to get the necessary clearance. ua-cam.com/video/0y7WBPk1iUs/v-deo.html
I see a couple of problems. First, leave off the part about how to open the hood and just tell people to do so. Next, the bolt in front of the fender shield only needs to be loosened a lot, not removed. Why fight to replace it if you never needed to remove it? Also, it’d be great if you’d actually shown how to remove the headlamp assembly a bit more instead of merely saying ‘it’ll take a bit more work’. You really left out the most important part of the job. Last, replacement bulbs should never be touched with your bare hands. The oil in your skin can lead to the bulb overheating and burning out prematurely. Why replace it just to replace again a week or a couple of months later? Get someone to help you record the video.
I'm not sure if the guy that created ratchet wrenches is still alive but if hes dead and there is a heaven I'm sure he was given a mansion with servants and his own limousine and he lives next door to the guy that invented A/C.
You don't have to go through all of this. You just remove the (2) 10mm bolts on top of the light assembly and the whole unit moves forward with more than enough room to replace any of the bulbs in the assembly. There is one clip that retains assembly and you just line up the holes for the 2 pins and the one plastic clip and push assembly back together.
Thumbs down to Chevy Engineers. Replacing these bulbs on a 2003 Suburban...less than a 5 minute job.. no scraping up your hands. Id be ashamed if I was a GM engineer. Chevy has really gone down hill in quality and engineering. Smh. I own a 2013 Tahoe.. probably the last Chevy I will own.
H K Although I disagree with GM engineering going downhill in quality, I do agree that this shouldn’t be this difficult! I love GM but man they have to pay closer attention to detail. Specially with things that are considered regular maintenance!
Check out AUXITO LED lights! www.auxito.com/fzAW81rdedIPp8 and use code "SOG15" for 15% off!
Good ole GM engineering. Made replacing bulbs a hassle. Old model tahoes you would just pull two metal bars out and the whole headlight assembly came out completely. Thanks GM
💯
2007 Chevy Tahoe..was able to replace day time running light on passenger side without removing wheel well liner. I removed the two screws on top holding headlight assembly and I removed the six screws holding front grill on. Once these eight screws were removed I was able to pull headlight and grill assembly out a couple inches. Not difficult reaching running light once grill and headlight assembly pulled out a bit. Entire job took less than 30 mins.
2013 Tahoe drivers side DRL I did it your way took the screws out with a cordless drill change the bulb and put it back together less then 10 min. thanks
Even after removing the upper 10 mm bolts, loosening the 10mm below, and moving the light unit as far foward as was possible I was still unable to get my hand far enough down behind the lamp assembly from the top to manipulate the DRL socket. So I removed the six 10mm bolts across the top of the grille assembly, this allowed me to flex the grille outward enough to fairly easily reach the DRL socket from the side towards the radiator. There was also enough room to allow both hands to be used which made replacing the bulb so much easier. And no bleeding involved.
I wish they would’ve just kept the bulb replacement process the same as the older models!
Same! I’m a girl with a manicure and this advice saved me, lol …..I mean, it is what is is, right?!
This solution was the winner, thank you for posting this.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video, just installed Sylvania 3157 LEDs that are guaranteed for life so hopefully I won’t have to do this again. Thanks again!
Lane Myer
Thank you for the feedback! I’m glad it helped and I’ll cross my fingers you won’t have to do it again lol 🤞🏽
@@S.0.G I second this about the LEDs.
Best case, have someone with small hands to help. Also don't forget when you're op checking, the vehicle needs to be in neutral for the lights to come on (meaning they're not going to come on if you check while in Park).
Our 2012 Tahoe has been more problematic with the "little things" than any vehicle I have ever owned! This design is yet one more example of going backwards!!! I have had multiple Silverado, GMC Sierra, and Yukon XLs since 2000, and all of them were EASILY accessible - without any tools even being required! They had to retaining pins that simply pushed down and turned 90 degrees to remove the entire headlight assembly - easy access to DRLs, Headlights, Marker lights - any front bulb you needed to replace could EASILY be completely done without tools in less than 10 minutes MAX! As much as I have loved my GM Trucks and SUVs, this very well might be my last GM product. Broken plastic door handles and lift gate handle, broken plastic armrests inside, radio buttons falling off, etc - and it is the most expensive vehicle I've ever bought too! Thanks for posting this video, as the hidden 3rd bolt would never have been intuitive - and still trying to figure out why it was even necessary - could have had a retaining receiver clip like the inside has.
I agree! Not sure why GM decided to step away from those retaining pins from the earlier 2000s. Other than this I haven’t had anything else go wrong with our Tahoe. Replaced the serpentine belt which was a piece of cake. Will be doing a tune up on it soon so we’ll see how that goes. Our SUV has been very reliable and it’s a tank in the snow! My only other complaint is the wearing of the radio buttons. Thanks for the feedback and hope this helped!
You think those are bad, you should try a first gen GMC Acadia.
Good video but have your wife or 10 year old kid around to reach in and remove the bulb socket. My extra large hands took a beating. Bruised, cut and scraped, I managed to complete the job. Believe me it took some serious determination to finish the job.
I agree!
Why do you have to wait for night time to test out your “daytime” running lights tho?
babyboy0601 no in low light headlight come on Daytime light would turn off. DLR or for safety.. DRL stay on as long as dash eye sees enough light.
@Jeff Schlieve *brake
Exactly what i said 🤷🏾 with claims of being a good mechanic 🤦🏾 but that comment didn’t seem like you’re skilled mechanic worthy 😂
Seriously..some automotive 'engineer' got paid to design this assembly?! I'm thinking he should be in jail instead.
K Male
Agreed!
absolutely!
Completely moronic! All this just to change a bulb!
Yup, bunch of fricken morons.
"In jail" HA HA HA HA, Ive always driven old cars 80s and 90s just for this reason in the video,a buddy of mine drives a new Camry and the other day we were talking about replacing something minor like a bulb and i told him i would help him since I'm handy with cars and such,he told me he had seen a video where most of the front bumper had to be removed,i thought he was crazy until i checked it out by myself,i had to pass, I'm not doing that and risking tearing something up on his new plastic car,cars dont need cameras or 10 airbags or 70 miles of wires and I'm guessing its just gonna get worse,no thanks.
Thank you so much for this.. Everyone else made it seem so dern difficult I wasn't sure I could do it myself.. With your easy instruction I'm positive I can 🤗
Thank you for the feedback, glad it helped! And if i could do it, anyone can too! 💪
Never,never touch bulb w/bare hands, tho.
Estas bien mamacita
I just did it. Third bolt doesn’t need to come all the way out, just loosen it and the “c” comes clean. Tried to do it without getting third bolt. You can definitely get the two top lights but not the small lower DRL. Feel good if you do this and save yourself 500 bucks at Chevy
Why so many 👎 this is great content. Thanks man
Joe Huff
Appreciate that my brother. Thanks for the positivity 👍🏽
Thanks for posting! I found that the third (bottom) headlamp assembly bolt just needs to be loosened, not removed. The assembly has a slot that slides down onto the bolt, not a hole that needs to be lined up, at least on my 2013 Tahoe. Some folks say they didin't have to go through the wheel.well or loosen that lower bolt, which means either it's a different design, or that slotted tab broke off. As long as the headlight isn't bouncing around while you drive, you probably don't need to worry about that bottom bolt. Thanks again!
Appreciate it and glad it helped! Thanks for watching 👍🏽
Wanted to say "THANK YOU" for this video. It gave me the confidence to do it myself. Really appreciate it.
Brent Morris
I’m happy to hear that! Glad the video helped 👍🏽
Thanks for this video. I have to replace mine on my 2013 Avalanche. I figured I would have to take the wheel well cover loose and you confirmed this.
I tried reaching the bulb socket from the top going behind the assembly after loosening all the bolts like you show. That's the painful way and I couldn't really get a grip on the socket to turn it far enough to remove it. I found it's easier to take the 6 bolts out across the top of the grill and upper piece of the bumper skin and pull the grill out to reach though from the grill area from the inside edge of the headlight assembly and the DRL socket is right there and easy to turn. I used LEDs in hopes I'll never have to change them again.
Just changed my DRL's on my 08 Avalanche..3 10mm bolts on top, reach down n done! 10 min each side!
You should do an video on it bro!
@@vinovalentino1089 I will, next time a bulb goes out!
Thank you, Jimminy Christmas!!!! I don't suppose you could show me a diagram showing me where the rear washer hose runs from next to the fuse box to the rear wiper???? I can not find one.
Gotta love the fact 2006 and below have 2 locking pins that remove the complete assembley. 1 minute job to change any light.
They should’ve kept that style
Facts . Stupid gm
yes but someone could pop the hood and steal them in just a few seconds
Will changing to LED cause hyper flash?
How many light bulbs are in a 2012 chevy headlight? I have already replaces the 9005 and H11 but I need to change the daytime running light. I want to make sure I change the rest because it is such a hassel.
I always take off the boots for the top of the grille and fascia and then the headlight comes out entirely. I always do both drl bulbs and the 194 corner marker bulbs while I’m there!!! Good video forsure
Thank you! And yes, it’s always a great idea to do every light possible while you have access lol
Much much easier if you remove the bumper. 7mm on the fender liner 10mm on top and bottom and plastic clips upper and lower. ;-)
Too much extra work for me 😂 but that is definitely a good way to go too!
I am searching for that exact grill any idea where I kind find one?
Good job! I am impressed with just your phone.
Dr Cutler
Thank you 😂
Right on! Thank you for posting your video!
Glad it helped!
Not sure if it’s mentioned but there is plenty of room to reach your hand next to the radiator to release and replace the bulb socket. Not necessary at all to release the grille.
Thanks Lisa that’s great news! Was not mentioned but thanks for letting future viewers know it’s easier to do so that way! 👍
always test before putting back together
Agreed!
Very well done. Thanks much for posting
Thanks Larry, appreciate the feedback!
Thanks for the video man. What a pain in the ass. GM really doesn't want you changing your own bulbs.
Shouldn’t you put dialectical grease on the bulb
Thanks for the video...VERY Helpful!!!!
RdrgGil
Thanks for the feedback, glad it helped!
Thanks!
Great job, going to try it later tonight
Thank you and hope all goes smooth!
Got one out in my Wife's Tahoe. I am going LED for sure. Thanks for the easy video. But for sure I agree with K Male about that....LOL... Take care all.
Thanks for the feedback! And LED for sure now that you have the opportunity lol
2013 Tahoe LT. They had a huge engine compartment to work with, but some overpaid engineer decided that jumping through hoops to change a light bulb wouldn't be a problem. I love my Tahoe, but this is just plain stup!d.
I figured that since the driver side bulb had burned out, the passenger side was probably not far behind, so I replaced them both. I used the Sylvania Silverstar 3157 bulbs. These are SIGNIFICANTLY brighter than the standard 3157 -BUT- may have a shorter life. Time will tell, I guess. (And, warranty is 1 year, not lifetime.) I know that some kind of electrical accommodation must be made to use LED bulbs, but I'm thinking about going that route if/when these burn out.
FIRST, for those who are unaware: You should not touch auto bulbs with your bare fingers as the oil from your skin can cause premature failure. I use the Venom Steel gloves from Walmart or online because I have never ripped one, which I can't say about other brands.
This video helped me get a good start and gave me an idea of the overall process. The posts about removing the 10mm bolts across the front of the grill saved the day because I just barely was able to get it done with the grill loosened.
Lastly, I couldn't simply push the fender liner out of the way, so I used a bungie cord from one of the bolt holes of the liner to the wheel to hold back the liner so that I was not fighting it to get at that hidden 3rd bolt. My Tahoe has 20" wheels, so vehicles with smaller wheels might find it easier to just push the liner out of the way.
THANK YOU S.O.G.!
Great comment, thanks for watching! 🙏🏽
I hooked my new ones up pass side worked then I hooked up driver side amd now pass lights dont work? amy answers my kit also came with a wiring harness but it did not call for what would be the problem? amh one....
Could be a fuse, that’s the first thing I’d check!
Sorry guys but you have to take the bumper off it’s much easier to access headlights
Thank’s excellent vídeo
David venegas
Appreciate the feedback! 👍🏽
If you take out all top screws for the plastic grill it makes it a little easier to reach behind.
To test your “Daytime” running lights, you don’t wait until dark. On a level surface, place ramps in front of your front wheels (or otherwise do a great job of ensuring the truck can’t drive forward), start the truck and place it in gear. Do NOT touch the throttle, do NOT activate the parking brake (since that shuts off the DRL circuit). If you have a helper, just have them put it in gear, of course. If you don’t, exit the vehicle with the door open, quickly check to see that your new bulb is working and then reverse all the steps I mentioned above (truck in park, shut it off, etc.). L8R
Kevin Storm
Thanks again for the feedback! 👍🏽
Talk about over-complicating things and suggesting dangerous methods. Simply pull up to any garage door, wall, or another vehicle and look through the windshield jeez.
I usually check when I'm behind a nice clean car at a red light. Can confirm all my lights are working in the reflection 😅 I check this daily. Haha
Great video...!
MR DEAN V
Appreciate the feedback! 👍
I just stick my arm from the top. Cuts up my hand and arm, but no tools. Upgrade to LED It’d be the last time you’d change them for years..
We fbcirreewvcxzzzss
Great video very precise. Appreciate it… Could Chevy make it any harder to remove and change a lightbulb? Thanks again. I have a 2012 LTZ which has the same lights. I am going led for sure. Thanks again. You got another subscriber.
Appreciate the feedback and kind words! I should've gone LED while I was in there lol
i guess it was too easy before to steal the headlights because you could steal them in 10 seconds
Argh, did GM F this all up. My 2003 Suburban is SUPER EASY to change bulbs on. GM, YOU SUCK. I am thinking my next new vehicle will be a Toyota
Remove any rings, watches etc from the hand you are shoving down in there!
The bottom bolt doesn't need to be completely removed. Just loosen. The housing has an open end to allow to slide past.
Appreciate the info!
Last time I took my modules out and went led I just left the bottom one loose, and sure enough my marker light just went out 🤣
It's easier to just leave the lower screw off. Doesn't affect the headlight at all. My 2009 had one missing and I removed the other, much easier to switch bulbs.
Appreciate the feedback!
Hello very helpful video but I have a few ???s 1. I heard your not supposed to
touch the bulbs with bare hands?
2. Why do you only test at night when they are DRL?🤔 lol
3. Ok I forgot the last ? 🤦♀️ maybe it will come back to me!!!
Mel, you aren’t suppose to but it’s impossible with the amount of room I was working with lol and idk what i was thinking honestly I was in the middle of doing led headlight bulbs on another car and must’ve got something mixed up there 😂 let me know if you remember that 3rd Q 👍
I did mine on 13 Avalanche yesterday. Just the DRLs. What a pain in the ass. Put in the LED expensive bulbs Unbolted the grill too and the bottom bolt bracket still broke off on both sides of light housing. The 3rd break light is out and its 600.
600?! Thats crazy. Id check the fuses first. LEDs don't go out often but if it is out I think you have to replace the whole housing and if thats the case I'd check on ebay lol but 600 is crazy man hopefully you find a much cheaper option!
Hi , may i ask whats the type LED light bulb socket you were using . i guess the DRL have two functions ( DRL and indicator ) I like to change both in orange LED's .
Ok, once you watch this video and follow the suggested steps right up until you attempt to reach your hand / arm anywhere there’s a gap which was not possible for me, then watch this next video which glosses over those first steps but makes all the sense in the world on how to get the necessary clearance.
ua-cam.com/video/0y7WBPk1iUs/v-deo.html
Good job, Brother. 'preciate you.
Appreciate the feedback and glad it helped!
You don't need to remove but the first 2 screws
Man i just reach in the driver side and did it by hand, But the passenger side you will have to do this..
Great job tnks to.teach
Thank you!
Now I know why there are so many trucks with at least one light blown out
Yea in all honesty I see this ALL the time lol
@@S.0.G it's a lot easier to remove the screws that hold the grill in and replace the bulb that way. My mechanic did mine in minutes.
I see a couple of problems. First, leave off the part about how to open the hood and just tell people to do so. Next, the bolt in front of the fender shield only needs to be loosened a lot, not removed. Why fight to replace it if you never needed to remove it? Also, it’d be great if you’d actually shown how to remove the headlamp assembly a bit more instead of merely saying ‘it’ll take a bit more work’. You really left out the most important part of the job. Last, replacement bulbs should never be touched with your bare hands. The oil in your skin can lead to the bulb overheating and burning out prematurely. Why replace it just to replace again a week or a couple of months later? Get someone to help you record the video.
Kevin Storm
Appreciate the info brother! Will use the feedback for positive purposes and for future reference 👍🏽
2007-2014 Donut
I'm not sure if the guy that created ratchet wrenches is still alive but if hes dead and there is a heaven I'm sure he was given a mansion with servants and his own limousine and he lives next door to the guy that invented A/C.
Absolutely! Haha
You don't have to go through all of this. You just remove the (2) 10mm bolts on top of the light assembly and the whole unit moves forward with more than enough room to replace any of the bulbs in the assembly. There is one clip that retains assembly and you just line up the holes for the 2 pins and the one plastic clip and push assembly back together.
Yeah it moves after you've broken the bottom bracket.
Just to replace a bulb this is horrible
Agreed!
Thumbs down to Chevy Engineers.
Replacing these bulbs on a 2003 Suburban...less than a 5 minute job.. no scraping up your hands. Id be ashamed if I was a GM engineer. Chevy has really gone down hill in quality and engineering. Smh.
I own a 2013 Tahoe.. probably the last Chevy I will own.
H K
Although I disagree with GM engineering going downhill in quality, I do agree that this shouldn’t be this difficult! I love GM but man they have to pay closer attention to detail. Specially with things that are considered regular maintenance!
Same, never buying a chevy again, especially since changing a lightbulb is a pain in the ass.
Don't have to do all that for a 08 . Two bolts that's it
Mine don’t work at all 😂
Let's talk passenger side. Dealer wants damn near $200.00. This video is elementary.
Who designs these things? This is an absolute fail. I appreciate the video but this is sheer insanity to change a simple bulb. 🤦♀️💩#chevrolet #gmc
💯
Terrible
Why the fuck is this so complicated for no reason? Why can't there be like 2 screws on both sides to hold the headlight and once removed it comes out?
🤣💯