Hey there my friend.. again.. great video. I should have asked before but after looking at the motor, service manual, and reading forums... I seen some places where it general info while others were more detailed particularly about "link and sync" of the carbs. Is it necessary to go thru the "link and sync" procedure for just removing the carbs, clean/rebuild, and reinstall? Found myself a little apprehensive if I need to link and sync as I dont want to make an incorrect setting and have the motor run too lean. It will also be difficult to find a body of water (locally) to set up idle and WOT adjustments due to it being late fall and docks being pulled and water levels lowered for winter. I was hoping it was just a process of removing the links on the side of the motor (as you've demonstated), remove the carbs, service them, reinstall, and hook the links back up again. Is that "easy" lol... or do I need to do timing with a timing light, special tools, idle adjustments, WOT adjustments, cam setting and stop adjustments? Fingers crossed it's easier than some things I've seen and read. Anxiety and apprehension is thru the roof.. Thanks Man... appreciate you and your video.
Thank you I am having a hell of a time with a Mercury 125 saltwater series. I need to get my ass in there and get these carburetors out and rebuild them. It idles fine and as long as you're going about 3 miles an hour it runs fine but as soon as you try to get some gas to it spit sputters and stalls. It broke down in the beginning of last year so it has a full tank of gas in it lets a year old I need to get rid of that. And a couple of friends told me there's a slow and fast port or in the carburetors and it sounds like the fast ports are clogged or something to that effect so either I pick up a rebild kit for each carb for a new carburetor I guess. But this does help a lot cause your motor looks just like the one I have. Besides I have one extra carburetor. I greatly appreciate your time.
try the idle screws, it sounds like the motor is running lean. the top screws opposite the carb valve retainers, open them a touch. I have one of these motors, and if it idles fine, its prooobably an issue with adjustment
Bro same motor on a Sea Hunt 20 ft, just got to the point now it’ll only go 7mph and you have to go back to neutral and then back to 7 lol. Wasn’t the fuel bulb. Prop change didn’t change anything, fuel sample shows no water contamination, fuel flows to motor, can’t say it’s getting in the carbs right. Also looking into the reed valves. Going to go get it and put it in the driveway tmrw
Gracias por el video. Acabo de hacer lo mismo y es muy trabajoso el tercer carburador, sobre todo para poner la junta sin que caiga, y sacar los pernos. Los he sacado para que el motor arrancara en punto muerto, pues para arrancarlo necesito embragar y meter palanca del acelerador.
Thanks for making this video. I was able to rebuild my carbs and reinstall them. I didn't discover too much gunk in the carbs, but I discovered the 25 year old fuel lines were terrible. They ended up shearing apart upon removal. I got those replaced. Still didn't fix the issue, which appears to be similar to your issue. Will only reach 4,300 RPMs and struggles to deliver power on the lower end. I can't get out of the hole at 4,300 RPMs. I have to back if off to 2,500 RPMs and wait for it to eventually climb. Previous owner put a large Stingray hydro foil plate on the back, because I assume they were having the same issue. My question to you is, what was the "Reed valve" issue you were dealing with? I'm going to replace those next and see if that solves my problem too. Thanks again.
Did you make a video of how you got the reed valves replaced? I need to do that as well and would really appreciate a video to guide me. Thanks for the great video.
That bottom carb is extremely aggravating. You have to get the carb at an angle and it has to be the perfect angle at that. It kind of depends on whether your motor has the studs that are connected to the motor or if the bolts thread into the motor
I experienced the beeping alarm on my 50hp Mercury I had....it turned out to be the alarm sending unit on the bottom of the tank. If you are 100 percent certain it is oiling you can disconnect the wires at the bottom of the tank temporarily to stop the alarm.
I'm dealing with a similar problem. Now I'm thinking Reeds and reeds blocks too. Any suggestions. Idles but no throttle, rebuilding carbs. Should I replace the reeds and blocks?
Nice Video, which is better in term of engine performance and the ease of starting , and maintenance.... Mercury 3.5HP or Honda 2.3HP ? I will use it for my Inflatable boat and will need to lie it down when transporting it in the back of my car ... what you recommend ?
I have the 1997 90HP version of this mercury 2 stroke outboard. The procedure to take off or reinstall the carbs is not that difficult if not for the bottom carb, carb #3. To get the bolts in or out is murder!. I eventually get it done, but its takes alot of time and heartache. I try to angle the metal face plate as much as I can to get the clearance to take or put in those 2 bolts but its really frustrating. You mention it so I can imagine you know what I am saying, but you also seem to do it much quicker then me. Any detailed steps or tips on that would be great!... If only the bottom front part of the motor housing could fold down out of the way... it would be a dream to do...Great video btw...
Thank you.....yes that bottom carb is a tough one!!! I have no clue why they made it like that. My old 60 was much easier that's for sure. The motor I used in this video has been sold since I did thus video
Greg S, what’s is your 90hp on?? How does it perform? Just curious because I am thinking of changing my 75hp carb and valve reeds to make it a 90hp. My understanding is this is the only difference
Do you have a video of you putting the carbs back on by chance I’ve got a 60hp I got from a guy with the carbs already pulled off... have no clue where that fuel filter connects to
GunnFishTV I found a hell of a deal at a marine shop near me. $60 four all 3 carbs in good condition and I actually got to see em take it off and everything now it’s runnin good as new just won’t run over 22 on my 17’ foot fiberglass v hull...
Hey man, Thanks for the video. I have the same Tracker 2001 with a 75hp. My understanding is that these 75hp 2 stroke 3 cylinders are identical to the 90hp. 3 cylinder 2 strokes except for the 3 carbs that have different jets and the valve reeds? I know you bought a ranger so you probably got rid of this boat. Obviously this boat has a max rating of 75hp, however it was rated for 90hp 1 year in 2010. Not asking about exceeding max hp. Just asking about if you know anything about making the 75hp a 90hp by doing this? Also how did it go? Did it fix your 75hp
It ended up being my Reed valves and it drove me crazy figuring it out haha. The 75 and 90 did use the same block to my understanding so technically it can be switched out to a 90. Unfortunately this motor blew not long after this video due to the oiler going out!! It wiped out the top cylinder
That is terrible man. My understanding is that the oil setup is pretty reliable on these. Must have been a freak issue, otherwise I should take my pump off and mix. Did you at least get to try it before you got your Ranger? Also, how do you like your Ranger overall. I have heard the only downside is they are not as fast as they should be?
@@GunnFishTV what was your main issue? Ours was struggling with 6 ppl on a 20 ft BR, but now it’s not going above 7 with just me. New bulb didn’t affect it, about to pull carbs but keep hearing more and more about reed valves. Thanks for any future help bro
Thank You, watching your video will make Tomorrow's work a much easier.
No problem! Hopefully everything goes smooth
There's a special place in heaven for people like you, top man thanks!
Glad I could help!
Thanks for sharing the knowledge! Just pulled mine, cleaned it up and im back in action. Thanks for taking the time !!!!
Thanks from Québec, Canada, I will do the same on my Mercury 2006 90 HP 2 strokes. Your video was so clearly explained, awesome work !
Thank you!
Hey there my friend.. again.. great video. I should have asked before but after looking at the motor, service manual, and reading forums... I seen some places where it general info while others were more detailed particularly about "link and sync" of the carbs. Is it necessary to go thru the "link and sync" procedure for just removing the carbs, clean/rebuild, and reinstall? Found myself a little apprehensive if I need to link and sync as I dont want to make an incorrect setting and have the motor run too lean. It will also be difficult to find a body of water (locally) to set up idle and WOT adjustments due to it being late fall and docks being pulled and water levels lowered for winter. I was hoping it was just a process of removing the links on the side of the motor (as you've demonstated), remove the carbs, service them, reinstall, and hook the links back up again. Is that "easy" lol... or do I need to do timing with a timing light, special tools, idle adjustments, WOT adjustments, cam setting and stop adjustments? Fingers crossed it's easier than some things I've seen and read. Anxiety and apprehension is thru the roof.. Thanks Man... appreciate you and your video.
Great video, saved me a lot of time to get the carbs off and rebuilt. Thanks
Good job that’s what I’m doing tomorrow and clean up my mercury 115
Thanks Man ! I thought I was doing something wrong . I found out that it is a complete pain to get the bottom carb gaskets lined back in place.
It is a pain on these motors for sure!
Thank you I am having a hell of a time with a Mercury 125 saltwater series. I need to get my ass in there and get these carburetors out and rebuild them. It idles fine and as long as you're going about 3 miles an hour it runs fine but as soon as you try to get some gas to it spit sputters and stalls. It broke down in the beginning of last year so it has a full tank of gas in it lets a year old I need to get rid of that. And a couple of friends told me there's a slow and fast port or in the carburetors and it sounds like the fast ports are clogged or something to that effect so either I pick up a rebild kit for each carb for a new carburetor I guess. But this does help a lot cause your motor looks just like the one I have. Besides I have one extra carburetor. I greatly appreciate your time.
try the idle screws, it sounds like the motor is running lean. the top screws opposite the carb valve retainers, open them a touch. I have one of these motors, and if it idles fine, its prooobably an issue with adjustment
Bro same motor on a Sea Hunt 20 ft, just got to the point now it’ll only go 7mph and you have to go back to neutral and then back to 7 lol.
Wasn’t the fuel bulb. Prop change didn’t change anything, fuel sample shows no water contamination, fuel flows to motor, can’t say it’s getting in the carbs right.
Also looking into the reed valves. Going to go get it and put it in the driveway tmrw
@@danteinouye6098 my idle screw was seized when we tried to mess with it, going to put some PB on it and see if we can’t break it loose
Ty. Nicely laid out presentation. Think after watching I'm talking my engine o a pro. I should start on lawn mowers!
😂😂😂
I've only just found this video, very helpful indeed. Thanks for posting buddy 👍🙂
Thank you sir! Did that this morning. Runs alot better.
Nice job... thanks for the video. Much appreciated.
No problem!! Im glad it helped you out
Excellent video thanks for publishing.
I appreciate it bro. Greg/forked River nj.
Really helpful video. Many Thanks
I would also like to view your video covering reed replacement... Like your videos keep it up.. keep it simple..
Thanks for sharing helped tremendously
Great guidance! Thank you!
Thanks so much from Argentina!
Gracias por el video. Acabo de hacer lo mismo y es muy trabajoso el tercer carburador, sobre todo para poner la junta sin que caiga, y sacar los pernos. Los he sacado para que el motor arrancara en punto muerto, pues para arrancarlo necesito embragar y meter palanca del acelerador.
Good stuff
Very good, thank you.
No problem
Thank you.
Thanks for making this video. I was able to rebuild my carbs and reinstall them. I didn't discover too much gunk in the carbs, but I discovered the 25 year old fuel lines were terrible. They ended up shearing apart upon removal. I got those replaced. Still didn't fix the issue, which appears to be similar to your issue. Will only reach 4,300 RPMs and struggles to deliver power on the lower end. I can't get out of the hole at 4,300 RPMs. I have to back if off to 2,500 RPMs and wait for it to eventually climb. Previous owner put a large Stingray hydro foil plate on the back, because I assume they were having the same issue. My question to you is, what was the "Reed valve" issue you were dealing with? I'm going to replace those next and see if that solves my problem too. Thanks again.
Would like to see how you did the reeds
Did you make a video of how you got the reed valves replaced? I need to do that as well and would really appreciate a video to guide me. Thanks for the great video.
What hp and year do you have? We’re having a stumbling issue and won’t get above 7mph. About to pull carbs and inspect reeds. Any advice would help!
Hello do you know we're they rebuild carburetor in California
Do you have any tips on getting the bottom carb back In I'm having a heck of a time trying to get it on
That bottom carb is extremely aggravating. You have to get the carb at an angle and it has to be the perfect angle at that. It kind of depends on whether your motor has the studs that are connected to the motor or if the bolts thread into the motor
Are you getting a beep alarm from your oil injection?
I experienced the beeping alarm on my 50hp Mercury I had....it turned out to be the alarm sending unit on the bottom of the tank. If you are 100 percent certain it is oiling you can disconnect the wires at the bottom of the tank temporarily to stop the alarm.
This current motor is not alarming
I'm dealing with a similar problem. Now I'm thinking Reeds and reeds blocks too. Any suggestions. Idles but no throttle, rebuilding carbs. Should I replace the reeds and blocks?
This actually ended up being my reeds and blocks so I would definitely recommend that
thank you Bro.
No problem!
Great video can you put the parts number I'm rebuilding my carbs
Is there supposed to be a cap on the back part of the oil reservoir? Mine doesn't have one but it's a used boat so I'm wondering
Back part of the oil tank?
Nice Video, which is better in term of engine performance and the ease of starting , and maintenance.... Mercury 3.5HP or Honda 2.3HP ? I will use it for my Inflatable boat and will need to lie it down when transporting it in the back of my car ... what you recommend ?
Question: did you need to replace the reeds ? GB
Yes it ended up being the Reed manifold that was causing the issue
I dropped a bolt down there. What’s the best way to get it back?
Best way is with an extendable magnet or bendable grabbers. Alot of those bolts are stainless so they wont stick to a magnet
Thanks to your video I was able to go ahead and take off oil tank and carbs to reach it. So next up, carb rebuild.
Do you have a video for that?!
and for future reference, I stuff a rag in the bottom of motor b4 I start working on that way if something is dropped.........
I have the 1997 90HP version of this mercury 2 stroke outboard. The procedure to take off or reinstall the carbs is not that difficult if not for the bottom carb, carb #3. To get the bolts in or out is murder!. I eventually get it done, but its takes alot of time and heartache. I try to angle the metal face plate as much as I can to get the clearance to take or put in those 2 bolts but its really frustrating. You mention it so I can imagine you know what I am saying, but you also seem to do it much quicker then me. Any detailed steps or tips on that would be great!... If only the bottom front part of the motor housing could fold down out of the way... it would be a dream to do...Great video btw...
Thank you.....yes that bottom carb is a tough one!!! I have no clue why they made it like that. My old 60 was much easier that's for sure. The motor I used in this video has been sold since I did thus video
Greg S, what’s is your 90hp on?? How does it perform? Just curious because I am thinking of changing my 75hp carb and valve reeds to make it a 90hp. My understanding is this is the only difference
I have the exact same motor. Any chance you could provide me with a serial number so I can order a fly wheel my tag is gone so I’m dead in the water?
Unfortunately I no longer have this boat or motor
Do you have a video of you putting the carbs back on by chance I’ve got a 60hp I got from a guy with the carbs already pulled off... have no clue where that fuel filter connects to
My current 60 doesn't have a fuel filter in the actual motor....I installed an inline fuel filter in my fuel line between the pump ball and motor
GunnFishTV I found a hell of a deal at a marine shop near me. $60 four all 3 carbs in good condition and I actually got to see em take it off and everything now it’s runnin good as new just won’t run over 22 on my 17’ foot fiberglass v hull...
@@cosiestclient5671 what RPMs are you hitting?
@@GunnFishTV about to cut our old one out and do the same setup. You using like an automotive filter with the plastic housing?
Hey man, Thanks for the video. I have the same Tracker 2001 with a 75hp. My understanding is that these 75hp 2 stroke 3 cylinders are identical to the 90hp. 3 cylinder 2 strokes except for the 3 carbs that have different jets and the valve reeds? I know you bought a ranger so you probably got rid of this boat. Obviously this boat has a max rating of 75hp, however it was rated for 90hp 1 year in 2010. Not asking about exceeding max hp. Just asking about if you know anything about making the 75hp a 90hp by doing this? Also how did it go? Did it fix your 75hp
It ended up being my Reed valves and it drove me crazy figuring it out haha. The 75 and 90 did use the same block to my understanding so technically it can be switched out to a 90. Unfortunately this motor blew not long after this video due to the oiler going out!! It wiped out the top cylinder
That is terrible man. My understanding is that the oil setup is pretty reliable on these. Must have been a freak issue, otherwise I should take my pump off and mix. Did you at least get to try it before you got your Ranger?
Also, how do you like your Ranger overall. I have heard the only downside is they are not as fast as they should be?
Dagum, seems like 75hp is a little much. Also, if it's anything like my old Mercury, it's a pita
Nice! Is your motor an ELPTO?
Yep it is
@@GunnFishTV I have a 115 ELPTO, n I will use yours intructions to clean It, I was looking for It! Thanks from Brazil!
@@kleberccjr awesome!! Glad I could help!
Hi awsome video im having difficulties removing the bolt on the bottom of my carb mine is 115 hp elpto
@@RC-nv9lj that bottom bolt is the worst one out of all no doubt
What year/HP mercury is this?
This is a 1999 75hp
@@GunnFishTV you are the man, i have a 1995 75hp i need to do some work on!
@@GunnFishTV what was your main issue? Ours was struggling with 6 ppl on a 20 ft BR, but now it’s not going above 7 with just me. New bulb didn’t affect it, about to pull carbs but keep hearing more and more about reed valves.
Thanks for any future help bro
@@74nova36 it was my reed valves!!!
@@GunnFishTV I mean how was she running when you decided to take the carbs off the first time
What is the name of the people who sold you that? Would like to throw them some business
basically