Yes some people do take your advice, two years ago I asked BMW X5 or Porsche Cayenne, you said X5, that is what I got and couldn't be happier. And latest Consumer Report has X5 ranked NO 1 in its category. Thanks for the good advice
My late dad was a mechanic for 50 years, we managed a fleet of family vehicles in addition to our customer's cars and we have always rust-proofed our vehicles at Krown annually since the 1980's. Their technicians are certified annually and they know the trouble spots with every type of vehicles. We have sprayed all vehicles including Hybrids and Tesla's in the family fleet and customer cars because in addition to protecting steel components it also serves to protect electrical connectors from moisture infiltration, and also slows down the oxidation of Aluminum components. The Krown rust proofing fluid is non-conductive and safe to use on all high voltage components and wiring found in Hybrids and Electric vehicles. It's also non-toxic and environmentally friendly and because it contains no solvents it won't harm Asphalt, Concrete and non-pourice stone. All Rubber components should be sealed with 100% Silicone spray first to prevent it from absorbing the Krown or other rust proofing products and swelling/falling apart. Krown does this automatically during your annual applications. They also treat all your door seals and window seals with Silicone spray to extend their lives as well from the elements. You really can't beat a properly done rust proofing application from anyone you choose but for our family over the decades we have never been more happy than using Krown for all of them. This would add up to thousands of applications in our family over the decades.
I like the hybrid question. To me this move is many years over due! EV sales in July were up 18% year over year which is similar growth. If you have a garage where you can do off peek charging an EV is awesome. Costs us ~$30 a month to drive over 1k miles and we never go to gas stations or for oil changes!
Use a good waterless car wash with quality detailing towels. Go to a DIY spray booth first if really dirty then finish with waterless car wash. High polymer content, does not scratch and leaves a really satisfying slick sheen and shine to the paint.
I agree about the rust proofing if you plan to keep the car. I live in the US version of the rust belt. My wife’s 2005 Toyota Matrix has very little underbody component rust and was never rust proofed and is kept outside all year round. For decades northeast Ohio had dozens of rust proofing shops. Now one or two locally. I rarely notice body panel rust on vehicles newer than 20 years.
A ceramic coating is really just a newer, more robust replacement for carnauba wax. It will make the paint easier to keep clean, due to being very hydrophobic. You still want to stay away from any abrasive car washes, because they will still cause swirl marks.
Take a bucket, sponge and soap to the spray car wash and hand wash it there. Stay away from mechanical car washes. Wash the bottom of doors and trunk lid and you don’t need rust proofing.
Was looking for this comment. I do the same. I take warm water and my bucket and soap. I use Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions soap with a wash mitt/clay mitt combo and micro fibres and the graphene spray "wax" drying aid to dry the car. I just choose a slow time like Monday or Tuesday morning to go as I'm there an hour.
Two fellow employees have Hyundai Santa Fe's, and both have had extensive, expensive issues with them. One has spent more than $10K in repairs over the last year, and the other has had an engine replaced (under warranty, but only after lengthy discussions/arguments with the dealer and manufacturer). The first owner just dumped the vehicle, as they were absolutely fed up with it, for a Mazda. The other has decided to keep the vehicle until it falls apart, and will let his kids drive it. They are shopping for a replacement, likely to be a full size pickup. I wouldn't touch any Hyundai or Kia product with a ten foot pole, regardless of what CR or JDP have to say.
@@danhall3450 No idea what engines. One was a 2nd gen (that's the one with the $10K in repairs and parts), the other is a 3rd gen (that's the one with the replacement engine). The 2nd gen grew to be so unreliable the poor owner was taking an Uber to work. The 3rd gen was off the road for months waiting for the engine to be diagnosed and ultimately replaced.
Family friend owns a 2017 Hyundai Tucson and have had numerous issues with it with most recent a transmission failure that required full replacement that was covered under extended warranty (glad they got it) but had to fight them tooth and nail. The ext warranty is running out soon so they’re dumping it for a more reliable brand (Lexus). They won’t ever go back to a Hyundai! I wouldn’t touch a Hyundai and Kia…
Stay away from the touchless carwashes as well. Even though they don’t use brushes, they do use an acidic wash and then an alkaline rinse to neutralize the acid. These must be balanced perfectly and they almost never are. I’ve even seen glass become etched from this over time. Instead, take your car to a DIY power wash place and bring your own bucket, car soap, and microfiber mitt.
Reliability always comes up - there are numerous ratings but I would also tend to get information from hands-on mechanics - the Car Care Nut channel is excellent - the fellow has been an expert Toyota Lexus mechanic for decades and also repairs all other brands and he goes through brand new cars telling you their strengths and weaknesses as in whether the engine/transmission/electrical will have issues - and he also tells you the weaknesses of Toyota and Lexus too so it's not all aces from them. Which Toyota you should buy and which to steer clear). The information you want to know is what specifically is breaking down - a new model car with a new infotainment that has issues - is a pain - but that issue is not likely that expensive. And maybe a user error - but it counts as one time in the shop. An engine that catches fire also counts as one time in the shop. What the industry needs (and I believe it exists in the UK) is to know facts - like every mechanic and every dealer reports every issue to a database. Kia Model X brought in for power door lock failure at 30,000km, Audi brought in for total transmission failure at 52,000km - etc - Consumer reports do this but it is survey-based. People who buy Toyota and Lexus are likely more cautious people who value reliability and thus baby their cars doing all the oil changes and maintenance - if you are 17 and buy a Mustang to rocket around your town and you don't have a ton of money - are you stretching that oil change? Are you driving it smoothly or always flooring it off the line? Still, the Car Care Nut and other mechanics can see what the problem areas are in cars (most that use turbos, many CVTs, Dual Clutches, several engines that don't have a port injection, etc). And Savagegeese in the USA is a great car channel because he measures things like the car audio systems, and he also discusses the quality of dealers. All cars will break down - how will you be treated when it does? My friend's mom had a VW - the clutch went and they tried to blame her - they had to be sued to fix it - let's just say it's the last VW product she will ever buy. Zack and Andrea love their VW dealer. So my advice is to definitely find out about the dealer in your town. Kia and Hyundai have horrible reputations in the USA - Canada is different. Lexus I have been told is outstanding - but then you're paying for it. Personally, I like Lexus (never owned one) but you get a Luxury brand with elite reliability that can be repaired with Toyota-priced parts. What you really want to know is years 4-10. That is outside the bumper-to-bumper warranty period - That's where mechanics come in because they deal with customers and have to tell the BMW owner that sorry - you need to spend $25,000 on a replacement engine while they'll tell a Toyota Corolla owner that an engine (albeit secondhand) will run them $3,000. Or, if you bought a Volvo - you'll have to wait 9 months because there are so few sold that they have no parts in stock.
My 2021 kia seltos sx turbo is the best kind. I was gonna get the Kona, then I saw your reviews back in 2020. Thanks to you both. Over 140k/km and no problem yet ❤ it
When I bought my 2023 Rav4 Prime I had to decide whether to get it undercoated or not. After a lot of research and against my better judgement I initially decided against it. The day I met with the financial guy and told him I didn’t want undercoating because it was not recommended for hybrids and Toyota he told me they’ve been undercoating Prius’s and all other hybrids for over 20 years and they never had a problem. I really was worried about not undercoating it as it would definitely rust here in Nova Scotia so I changed my mind figuring if something went wrong the dealer would be responsible and have to fix the problem. It’s been almost 2 years with no problem so far and it’s inspected yearly. I wouldn’t have gotten it undercoated anywhere else but the dealer in case there was an issue and the warranty was voided.
I have a 2019 Rav4 hybrid and went to rusted proof it + underbody coat it. Auto shop said don't bother underbody coating as its mostly plastic aero panels. Rust proofing was injected to high rust areas like lower doors, etc for minimal cost. Exposed areas (like around wheel wells and muffler) have moderate rust. I have 208,000km and drive a lot. I'll also mention 3 months each winter are spent in southern US with no snow or rust exposure.
Love the back way Zach reviewed the back seats for comfort and usability...lol Also I get a lot of good information from your follower's question and your insights....
Electronic rust modules, imho, work. I’ve had two cars that had them - 2008 Sebring and a 2013 Flex. Neither had any kind of rust happening when I traded them. The Sebring had 344,000 kms and the Flex 235,000 kms when traded in and still not a spot of rust. I didnt add any other rust protection to either car. My 21 bronco sport did not come with a module and I haven’t put one on, but I do Krown rust proof. Time will tell. I wash my cars at least three times a week all year round so I’m sure that has an impact as well. As an aside, that much maligned Sebring cost me nothing more than tires brakes and oil changes ( every 5000 kms religiously ) I should add that I live in Niagara Region Ontario were dumping pure salt on roads is an Olympic event.
Krown does not drill holes based on the manufacture. My location for example told me they do not drill VW as it voids the warranty. They use the pre-existing access and drain holes.
The NX doest get high reliability from consumers report, funny i was looking into that yesterday, the BMW X3 has a near stellar rating. We have a UX and we love it.
I thought that was strange too.. the consumer reports rate the hybrid much better…but funny enough, Lexus just had to buy my NX 350 fsport back for problems…needless to say I am taking a break from Lexus for a bit. 😢
down here in seattle we don't use brushes at our car washes we use little towels that don't leave swurl marks. i tried the touchless up there in had to go back thru the car was several times before my car was clean. even then i could run my finger across the car and see it was still dirty
I used to own GM cars (used Grand Am, new 2000 & 2005 Impalas), I live 8km (5 miles) from a GM dealership. I moved up, yes UP (in quality, more features for less money, better warranty, no major issues) to Kia by driving 160km (100 miles) to my nearest Kia dealership. Got a new 2010 Borrego V8 (kept for 10 years - nothing wrong with it), traded it for a 2019 Niro to save gas, still have it and want to keep for a while. Got a new 2015 Sportage LX (kept it for 7 years - nothing wrong with it), traded it for a slightly used 2019 Sorrento LX+ V6 for better towing with only 26000 km, extended the warranty to 140,000 km (unlimited years), want to keep it for a long time. My parent traded in their Accord with failed engine for a used Optima EX, going strong. My daughter bought a used 2011 Forte EX, still going with high mileage.
Regarding the rust protection. I also don't believe the electronic rust unit works, but I bought it on my Toyota hybrid simply because I wanted something and I wasn't sure if the "sprays" were going to be a safe enough option. Essentially, I consider the electronic rust control module to be buying a warranty. Doesn't mean it will work, but if it doesn't, I can take it back to the dealership and they can fix whatever issue may arise. If I got it sprayed from a local company and something happened to the car (shorted out the battery or damaged some hybrid components), I really don't want to be stuck between the garage and the dealer blaming each other.
@@dansnowball9471 that's always a concern. For our Forester, we bought the rust protection package from the dealer (thick spray on layer), which I would have prefer for my Toyota Hybrid, but they only sold the electronic things (which I seriously doubt do anything). I suppose one bright spot is my Toyota has a lot of aluminum body panels, which may reduce some areas of rust coming in time.
My friend rustproofed his Prius Prime. No holes drilled he told me and they used a sticky film similar to Fluid Film or wax oil. I’m guessing they only sprayed the under carriage and under the hood.
Regarding the ceramic coating, it isn't a magic "fix". You still need to clean the vehicle. Touchless car washes use acidic detergents which are harder on coatings. If you go the ceramic coating route, it may be best if you use a "You spray it" car wash and just don't use the brush. Just use the pressure sprayer. If you maintain the vehicle (wash it somewhat regularly), the ceramic coating will make it easier to clean so spraying it should get most things off easily (no need to use the brush).
@@brinderpanesar7761 Yes, I have followed him for years now. Very good videos demonstrating detailing and various products, now including his own line he just launched last week.
@@James-il3tq if possible, you should always avoid using the brush. If you want to clean the vehicle with physical contact, you should use the two bucket wash system using quality soaps and microfiber wash mitts. it is important to avoid "rubbing" debris around as that is what scratches the paint and causes the "swirl marks".
I spoke to Toyota when i bought my 2024 Rav 4 hybrid XLE about rust proofing. Toyota Canada posts a document where they DO NOT recommend rust proofing they say it can potentially damage the vehicle and there is also an issue where for technician safety you do not want to cover up the color of the high voltage cables
I own a 2017 Hyundai Elantra Limited vehicle. I bought it brand new, and it has been the most reliable vehicle I ever own coming from 2 Acuras. I still get compliments on my car 7 years later. I call it the "Korean Jetta or A4." It has a Germanic vibe to it. It's full of technology for what it is. The features I have reminded me of my old Acura TL, like memory seats, tilted mirrors for parking, navigation, and smart cruise control. I'm glad I took a chance on my car purchase. People should drive what they want and not be criticized by anyone. Im looking forward to purchasing a new car next year. I have my eyes on 2025 KIA K4 GT-Line turbo!
elantra hybrid inherited everything from Ioniq hybrid. There isn't any issue with Ioniq hybrid which is almost close to 10 years now. If ioniq hybrid has no issue, then elantra hybrid will have no issue.
I keep my cars for more than 10 years and have never had any rust, so I've always believed rustproofing was just an aftermarket scam. One Honda Accord, one Lexus RX 350, two 5 series BMW's, two Volvo's, no rust. I live on Cape Cod half a mile from the Atlantic Ocean and we salt the roads in winter. Have I just been lucky?
Pwrhaps + you probably wash your car often? I live in Alberta and take good care of my Rav4. Didn't underbody rust proof of it because its mostly plastic aero covers. Quite a bit of rust around the exposed parts namely the suspension. Any exposed underbody (body on frame vehicles mostly) undercoating every 2 years worth it if you plan on keeping your car many years.
@@richardhale2117 The rustproofing need became apparent before car companies started using galvanized steel. In the fifties and sixties you could have rust thru in fenders and rocker panels before the last payment was made on your 36 month car loan.
Wool-Wax. When they clean the wool from sheep, there is a waxy residue left over, and that stuff makes a wonderful rust-protectant for cars. A name for this stuff is called 'Fluid-Film', and a thicker product is called 'Wool-Wax'. Wool-Wax is available only in America, while some rust proofing shops offer to spray the underside of your vehicle with Fluid-Film, that's the stuff that I would go for if I wanted to rust-proof my car.
lol here are some thoughts about last question. The thing is mark up price is insane for toyota. Unless you are lucky enuf to find a good toyota dealer willing to sell at MSRP, other wise most likely you gonna spend 5k-7k(not 3k) more than elantra hybrid. I would say go for Camry if you can find low trim Camry sell at MSRP, other wise you can go for elantra hybrid.
To the Question on “RUST PROOFING ” your new car… 📌I called Toyota Canada regarding this this issue and they did say that if any issues arose in the future that may be relate to the “non Toyota approved Rust Proofing” NOT preformed by the dealership you would in fact VOID your warranty” * But funny part was THEY had the car sprayed through a “out sourced” company i found out that is using a Very similar product to “Krown” *(I was friends with the parts manager) What ever you do Don’t buy the black rubbery coating they try to sell you immediately after signing the new car contract. It cracks and allow water to travel inside the coating and rust and before you know it your car is full of rust. 📌Also Note, if you do have your Hybrid vehicle sprayed elsewhere like Krown, make the company aware your car is a “Hybrid” and avoid spraying near the Hybrid Battery and hybrid electrical cables in the rear under your car.🎉🎉 My car was basically sprayed around the doors, hinges, wheel wells, springs, trunk/doors, rocker panels and hood areas, basically like Zack said.✅
Re: dealer proximity. I drive for a total of 2 hours, back & forth, to the dealership because they provide excellent customer service. Yes, before I bought the car. I did not buy from the local dealership, of the same brand, because I witnessed & experienced poor service. I considered visiting other brand dealerships locally. But friends mentioned typically the staff ignores people even when their dealership is empty. They look at the car you drive into the lot with & glare at you from head to toe. Staff don't like what they see they pretend you don't exist. They like what they see but will tell you to go on the website & print out the trim prices from your home printer. 🤦♂🤦♀ They don't offer a test-drive & walk away.🤦♀🤦♂
I think that it is smarter to go for the more expensive loaded Toyota over the cheaper base Lexus. You're paying for a badge and don't get the value. Get a Rav4 hybrid instead of an NX250. Why get the luxury brand if you don't get it fully loaded? All of what i said goes out the window if you can't wait and need a vehicle NOW!
@@philipf2705 the Toyota dealer network are a scam. They told me it was impossible to get a new Prius but they had a one with a few thousand miles they wanted almost 10k over what it MSRP. ☹️
@@philipf2705 it was in Canada. The price laws only apply to new vehicles, there are no laws on what the price of a car is sold used. Toyota Canada doesn’t care they claim the dealers are private and they have no control over them.
Their GDIs are junk, but their Korean built naturally aspirated engines are reliable if maintained properly. At least the four 2.7L V6 and the 2.0L 4 cylinder engines have been for me.
Toyota will give you some BS about how great they rustproof their vehicles at the factory and you don't need it. Sorry but in central Canada where I live, it WILL rust eventually. I did exactly what you said about using a can and doing it yourself. Toyota dealers will also tell you it will "void" the warranty, then offer you an electronic gadget, which as you stated is 100% dealer snake oil with HUGE mark ups.
Agree! Only some cars like my 2019 Rav4 hybrid are 90% covered on the underside by plastic aero panels. My rustproofing shop said don't bother spraying underbody it's all plastic. I still had high rust areas (like lower doors, etc) rust proof injection treatment done. Those parts are looking great but exposed areas around wheel wells and rear muffler area showing fair bit of rust on my 2019 Rav4 hybrid, 200,000km.
We like our 2015 Kia Forte other than we have had brake issues. Replacing our rear brakes cost $1200. We've had it since new, its a manual with no AC which gives a bit less to go wrong.
KIA...2019 Sedona, over 100,000km and only brakes, tires and battery, no repairs. Still drives like new, just wish dealer experience for routine maintenance was better.
Kia/Hyandai unfortunately have some of worst dealership service records for customer experience. Most new cars make it to 100,000km even when poorly maintained. It's the 100,000km+ where even modern Kia/Hyandais are reputed to be less reliable. Used car marker prices back this up though they've improved.
It's interesting that vehicles built in Alabama plants, being Hyundais, Kias and even Toyotas all seem to have problems. Seems strange that Alabama plants have all the problems. Check the build labels to confirm. 🤔
Mazda has been using thin paint for decades. The major rust issues in the early 2000s also was a huge eyesore until they switched steel suppliers. I've always hesitated at Mazda's strategy to move upscale along with their prices. Mazda's drive great but the quality issues don't align with their product and brand aspirations.
The paint is hit and miss. You can have good paint on a car and bad on the same model, just a slight different date of manufacture. Mine is a 2016 cx5 and no surface rust or paint bubbling or peeling. Others I have seen rust and bubbling even on random colours but others no issues. It’s a crap shoot.
@@chrislim7976 it does. I have worked on CX5s in red with rust and others perfectly fine. Same goes for them in blue and the Mazda 3s and CX50s. Some of the blacks are good, others are bad. I have even seen a one year old cx30 with bubbling paint. So yes it doesn’t matter which colour on which vehicle, but on who is doing the painting and if he or she is being rushed.
Anytime I hear the "undercoating" when discussing a dealer applied substance, I feel a little sick. Dealers used to apply a black, tarry mess on just the underside of vehicles which generally hardened and then would trap moisture between the steel and the undercoating with horrific results. If that is what the dealer is suggesting, RUN AWAY! Electronic rust modules don't work and can't work to protect your whole vehicle because you would literally have to run a wire to every disparate part (and there are thousands of them) of the vehicle to get ANY benefit from such a thing. Again, RUN AWAY! OTOH, rust proofing sprays which allow the product to creep into crevices and need to be periodically applied DO WORK. Dealers who say manufacturers don't recommend such treatments are just trying to BS their way into convincing you to buy what snake oil solution they are pushing. They get a kickback if you fall for it - you are lining their pockets and rewarding their dishonesty. Would I rust proof a hybrid with a Krown oil system? You bet I would and did (2024 Maverick Lariat hybrid). I also own a 2008 Ford Ranger which was Krowned regularly and is rust free after all these Ontario winters. I wouldn't go out of my way to run my hands along the frame rails if wearing white gloves, but it is nice go know that my spring hangers aren't about to snap off due to corrosion. I enjoy using a bit more soap to wash the excess oil that creeps around the bottom of my door when I wash it in the summer. No big deal, the paint glistens underneath.
:57seconds in, it's all relative, pleased you have this reliability chart pictured, saying "most or least reliable" doesn't tell you much. With a little math we can deduce the "relative" reliability. A Lexus is on average likely to have 1.35 issues in the third year. A Ford - waaay down near the bottom - is likely to have 2.39, JUST ONE MORE issue than a Lexus. Now we're getting somewhere. "When you are courting a nice girl an hour seems like a second. When you sit on a red-hot cinder a second seems like an hour. That's relativity." Albert Einstein
I get the "looks" for having a 2021 KIA Seltos SX (with the DCT) and a C6 Corvette (also with a DCT). I have had NO Problems with the 2021 Seltos and liked it so much I bought out the Lease I had, because I really didn't want to switch to the "new" "normal" transmission. I had a family member that had a 2014 KIA that had 3 engines put in (under KIA Warranty), but that was a 2014. In my view, KIA has come a long way in 10 years and Corvette has gone to? Never Never Land? I would certainly recommend a KIA and my Dealership is state-of-the art.
I think Toyota's strategy for the RAV4 is to not give it the quality their Lexus SUVs have. If the RAV4 was as quiet and "nice" then why pay $20k+ for the NX and RX. Koreans always have to give you more to bait you in and Honda, well they want to charge you more for better quality than Toyota.
@@Hallowsaw my advice to people is get the most popular and durable option if you are buying. And let others take the big hit in the first yr. If you are leasing basically buy whatever you want because you won’t be stuck with a dud after 3 or 4 yrs. There’s a reason why most of the luxury makers don’t bring their small hatchbacks to NA.
Hybrids are a good way for legacy firms to phase out ICE engines and phase in EVs instead of abruptly abandoning $ billions in ICE and spending $ billions for EV. Firms' hate "stranded assets."
Yes some people do take your advice, two years ago I asked BMW X5 or Porsche Cayenne, you said X5, that is what I got and couldn't be happier. And latest Consumer Report has X5 ranked NO 1 in its category. Thanks for the good advice
My late dad was a mechanic for 50 years, we managed a fleet of family vehicles in addition to our customer's cars and we have always rust-proofed our vehicles at Krown annually since the 1980's. Their technicians are certified annually and they know the trouble spots with every type of vehicles. We have sprayed all vehicles including Hybrids and Tesla's in the family fleet and customer cars because in addition to protecting steel components it also serves to protect electrical connectors from moisture infiltration, and also slows down the oxidation of Aluminum components. The Krown rust proofing fluid is non-conductive and safe to use on all high voltage components and wiring found in Hybrids and Electric vehicles. It's also non-toxic and environmentally friendly and because it contains no solvents it won't harm Asphalt, Concrete and non-pourice stone. All Rubber components should be sealed with 100% Silicone spray first to prevent it from absorbing the Krown or other rust proofing products and swelling/falling apart. Krown does this automatically during your annual applications. They also treat all your door seals and window seals with Silicone spray to extend their lives as well from the elements. You really can't beat a properly done rust proofing application from anyone you choose but for our family over the decades we have never been more happy than using Krown for all of them. This would add up to thousands of applications in our family over the decades.
I like the hybrid question. To me this move is many years over due! EV sales in July were up 18% year over year which is similar growth. If you have a garage where you can do off peek charging an EV is awesome. Costs us ~$30 a month to drive over 1k miles and we never go to gas stations or for oil changes!
Use a good waterless car wash with quality detailing towels. Go to a DIY spray booth first if really dirty then finish with waterless car wash. High polymer content, does not scratch and leaves a really satisfying slick sheen and shine to the paint.
Waterless car wash 😂Brushless car wash you mean?
Paint protection film to avoid swirl marks! Pricey but bombproof
Ceramic coating also works for that. I finally got it done last year and it's been pretty good.
I agree about the rust proofing if you plan to keep the car. I live in the US version of the rust belt. My wife’s 2005 Toyota Matrix has very little underbody component rust and was never rust proofed and is kept outside all year round. For decades northeast Ohio had dozens of rust proofing shops. Now one or two locally. I rarely notice body panel rust on vehicles newer than 20 years.
A ceramic coating is really just a newer, more robust replacement for carnauba wax. It will make the paint easier to keep clean, due to being very hydrophobic. You still want to stay away from any abrasive car washes, because they will still cause swirl marks.
Take a bucket, sponge and soap to the spray car wash and hand wash it there. Stay away from mechanical car washes. Wash the bottom of doors and trunk lid and you don’t need rust proofing.
Was looking for this comment. I do the same. I take warm water and my bucket and soap. I use Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions soap with a wash mitt/clay mitt combo and micro fibres and the graphene spray "wax" drying aid to dry the car. I just choose a slow time like Monday or Tuesday morning to go as I'm there an hour.
Dang, never thought to do this.
Underbody coating highly advisable in most Canadian cities and northern US. If you plan to keep your car many years 😊
Most of us cannot do that every single day, which is what would be needed with salted roads.
Two fellow employees have Hyundai Santa Fe's, and both have had extensive, expensive issues with them. One has spent more than $10K in repairs over the last year, and the other has had an engine replaced (under warranty, but only after lengthy discussions/arguments with the dealer and manufacturer). The first owner just dumped the vehicle, as they were absolutely fed up with it, for a Mazda. The other has decided to keep the vehicle until it falls apart, and will let his kids drive it. They are shopping for a replacement, likely to be a full size pickup. I wouldn't touch any Hyundai or Kia product with a ten foot pole, regardless of what CR or JDP have to say.
What year and what engines were in those two cars?
@@danhall3450 No idea what engines. One was a 2nd gen (that's the one with the $10K in repairs and parts), the other is a 3rd gen (that's the one with the replacement engine). The 2nd gen grew to be so unreliable the poor owner was taking an Uber to work. The 3rd gen was off the road for months waiting for the engine to be diagnosed and ultimately replaced.
Aftermarket resales values are speaks to volumes to a vehicles reliability. Kia /Hyandai aren't the worst but they're far from Toyota and Honda's.
If they're so bad why do I see tons of them on the roads everyday?
Family friend owns a 2017 Hyundai Tucson and have had numerous issues with it with most recent a transmission failure that required full replacement that was covered under extended warranty (glad they got it) but had to fight them tooth and nail. The ext warranty is running out soon so they’re dumping it for a more reliable brand (Lexus). They won’t ever go back to a Hyundai! I wouldn’t touch a Hyundai and Kia…
Stay away from the touchless carwashes as well. Even though they don’t use brushes, they do use an acidic wash and then an alkaline rinse to neutralize the acid. These must be balanced perfectly and they almost never are. I’ve even seen glass become etched from this over time. Instead, take your car to a DIY power wash place and bring your own bucket, car soap, and microfiber mitt.
Reliability always comes up - there are numerous ratings but I would also tend to get information from hands-on mechanics - the Car Care Nut channel is excellent - the fellow has been an expert Toyota Lexus mechanic for decades and also repairs all other brands and he goes through brand new cars telling you their strengths and weaknesses as in whether the engine/transmission/electrical will have issues - and he also tells you the weaknesses of Toyota and Lexus too so it's not all aces from them. Which Toyota you should buy and which to steer clear).
The information you want to know is what specifically is breaking down - a new model car with a new infotainment that has issues - is a pain - but that issue is not likely that expensive. And maybe a user error - but it counts as one time in the shop. An engine that catches fire also counts as one time in the shop.
What the industry needs (and I believe it exists in the UK) is to know facts - like every mechanic and every dealer reports every issue to a database. Kia Model X brought in for power door lock failure at 30,000km, Audi brought in for total transmission failure at 52,000km - etc - Consumer reports do this but it is survey-based.
People who buy Toyota and Lexus are likely more cautious people who value reliability and thus baby their cars doing all the oil changes and maintenance - if you are 17 and buy a Mustang to rocket around your town and you don't have a ton of money - are you stretching that oil change? Are you driving it smoothly or always flooring it off the line?
Still, the Car Care Nut and other mechanics can see what the problem areas are in cars (most that use turbos, many CVTs, Dual Clutches, several engines that don't have a port injection, etc).
And Savagegeese in the USA is a great car channel because he measures things like the car audio systems, and he also discusses the quality of dealers. All cars will break down - how will you be treated when it does? My friend's mom had a VW - the clutch went and they tried to blame her - they had to be sued to fix it - let's just say it's the last VW product she will ever buy. Zack and Andrea love their VW dealer. So my advice is to definitely find out about the dealer in your town. Kia and Hyundai have horrible reputations in the USA - Canada is different. Lexus I have been told is outstanding - but then you're paying for it. Personally, I like Lexus (never owned one) but you get a Luxury brand with elite reliability that can be repaired with Toyota-priced parts.
What you really want to know is years 4-10. That is outside the bumper-to-bumper warranty period - That's where mechanics come in because they deal with customers and have to tell the BMW owner that sorry - you need to spend $25,000 on a replacement engine while they'll tell a Toyota Corolla owner that an engine (albeit secondhand) will run them $3,000. Or, if you bought a Volvo - you'll have to wait 9 months because there are so few sold that they have no parts in stock.
Thanks for mentioning resale value, money in the bank.
My 2021 kia seltos sx turbo is the best kind. I was gonna get the Kona, then I saw your reviews back in 2020. Thanks to you both. Over 140k/km and no problem yet ❤ it
When I bought my 2023 Rav4 Prime I had to decide whether to get it undercoated or not. After a lot of research and against my better judgement I initially decided against it. The day I met with the financial guy and told him I didn’t want undercoating because it was not recommended for hybrids and Toyota he told me they’ve been undercoating Prius’s and all other hybrids for over 20 years and they never had a problem.
I really was worried about not undercoating it as it would definitely rust here in Nova Scotia so I changed my mind figuring if something went wrong the dealer would be responsible and have to fix the problem. It’s been almost 2 years with no problem so far and it’s inspected yearly.
I wouldn’t have gotten it undercoated anywhere else but the dealer in case there was an issue and the warranty was voided.
I have a 2019 Rav4 hybrid and went to rusted proof it + underbody coat it. Auto shop said don't bother underbody coating as its mostly plastic aero panels. Rust proofing was injected to high rust areas like lower doors, etc for minimal cost. Exposed areas (like around wheel wells and muffler) have moderate rust. I have 208,000km and drive a lot. I'll also mention 3 months each winter are spent in southern US with no snow or rust exposure.
I love your coffee and cars talk. I learn so much! Thank you.
I took Zack's advice on the 10th gen lx hondacivic hatchback with manual shifter. Still love my car. Cheers from brantford ontario
Love the back way Zach reviewed the back seats for comfort and usability...lol Also I get a lot of good information from your follower's question and your insights....
Electronic rust modules, imho, work. I’ve had two cars that had them - 2008 Sebring and a 2013 Flex. Neither had any kind of rust happening when I traded them. The Sebring had 344,000 kms and the Flex 235,000 kms when traded in and still not a spot of rust. I didnt add any other rust protection to either car. My 21 bronco sport did not come with a module and I haven’t put one on, but I do Krown rust proof. Time will tell.
I wash my cars at least three times a week all year round so I’m sure that has an impact as well.
As an aside, that much maligned Sebring cost me nothing more than tires brakes and oil changes ( every 5000 kms religiously )
I should add that I live in Niagara Region Ontario were dumping pure salt on roads is an Olympic event.
120!!!!? Feels like yesterday it was 1!❤ congrats you two xo love them and have watched all of them!❤
Krown does not drill holes based on the manufacture. My location for example told me they do not drill VW as it voids the warranty. They use the pre-existing access and drain holes.
Always waiting for questions coffee and cars. 🤩
The NX doest get high reliability from consumers report, funny i was looking into that yesterday, the BMW X3 has a near stellar rating. We have a UX and we love it.
I thought that was strange too.. the consumer reports rate the hybrid much better…but funny enough, Lexus just had to buy my NX 350 fsport back for problems…needless to say I am taking a break from Lexus for a bit. 😢
I like the way you love Rubyyyyyyyyyy ❤
down here in seattle we don't use brushes at our car washes we use little towels that don't leave swurl marks. i tried the touchless up there in had to go back thru the car was several times before my car was clean. even then i could run my finger across the car and see it was still dirty
I used to own GM cars (used Grand Am, new 2000 & 2005 Impalas), I live 8km (5 miles) from a GM dealership. I moved up, yes UP (in quality, more features for less money, better warranty, no major issues) to Kia by driving 160km (100 miles) to my nearest Kia dealership. Got a new 2010 Borrego V8 (kept for 10 years - nothing wrong with it), traded it for a 2019 Niro to save gas, still have it and want to keep for a while. Got a new 2015 Sportage LX (kept it for 7 years - nothing wrong with it), traded it for a slightly used 2019 Sorrento LX+ V6 for better towing with only 26000 km, extended the warranty to 140,000 km (unlimited years), want to keep it for a long time. My parent traded in their Accord with failed engine for a used Optima EX, going strong. My daughter bought a used 2011 Forte EX, still going with high mileage.
Regarding the rust protection. I also don't believe the electronic rust unit works, but I bought it on my Toyota hybrid simply because I wanted something and I wasn't sure if the "sprays" were going to be a safe enough option. Essentially, I consider the electronic rust control module to be buying a warranty. Doesn't mean it will work, but if it doesn't, I can take it back to the dealership and they can fix whatever issue may arise. If I got it sprayed from a local company and something happened to the car (shorted out the battery or damaged some hybrid components), I really don't want to be stuck between the garage and the dealer blaming each other.
Bought a rust control module for a Subaru forester didn’t work at all and now the dealer won’t fix it so there’s that
@@dansnowball9471 that's always a concern. For our Forester, we bought the rust protection package from the dealer (thick spray on layer), which I would have prefer for my Toyota Hybrid, but they only sold the electronic things (which I seriously doubt do anything). I suppose one bright spot is my Toyota has a lot of aluminum body panels, which may reduce some areas of rust coming in time.
You both are very knowledgeable on the wide range of vehicles. Thank you
Love the show! Very helpful and your chemistry makes my husband and I smile every time. If you don't mind sharing...what VW did you guys buy? Cheers
We bought a GTI in Pomelo Yellow and it's been great.
My friend rustproofed his Prius Prime. No holes drilled he told me and they used a sticky film similar to Fluid Film or wax oil. I’m guessing they only sprayed the under carriage and under the hood.
Regarding the ceramic coating, it isn't a magic "fix". You still need to clean the vehicle. Touchless car washes use acidic detergents which are harder on coatings. If you go the ceramic coating route, it may be best if you use a "You spray it" car wash and just don't use the brush. Just use the pressure sprayer. If you maintain the vehicle (wash it somewhat regularly), the ceramic coating will make it easier to clean so spraying it should get most things off easily (no need to use the brush).
I concur
I had my car ceramic coated last year and find its easier to clean but definitely still need to use a brush.
Follow Pan the Organizer for car cleaning tips. Hes a Canadian and just brought out his own line of car clean products
@@brinderpanesar7761 Yes, I have followed him for years now. Very good videos demonstrating detailing and various products, now including his own line he just launched last week.
@@James-il3tq if possible, you should always avoid using the brush. If you want to clean the vehicle with physical contact, you should use the two bucket wash system using quality soaps and microfiber wash mitts. it is important to avoid "rubbing" debris around as that is what scratches the paint and causes the "swirl marks".
That Mazda red is one of the most gorgeous colours anywhere.
It sure is!
I spoke to Toyota when i bought my 2024 Rav 4 hybrid XLE about rust proofing. Toyota Canada posts a document where they DO NOT recommend rust proofing they say it can potentially damage the vehicle and there is also an issue where for technician safety you do not want to cover up the color of the high voltage cables
2 Gen Venza (all hybrid) ? vs UX/NX hybrid ? 😊
I own a 2017 Hyundai Elantra Limited vehicle. I bought it brand new, and it has been the most reliable vehicle I ever own coming from 2 Acuras. I still get compliments on my car 7 years later. I call it the "Korean Jetta or A4." It has a Germanic vibe to it. It's full of technology for what it is. The features I have reminded me of my old Acura TL, like memory seats, tilted mirrors for parking, navigation, and smart cruise control. I'm glad I took a chance on my car purchase. People should drive what they want and not be criticized by anyone. Im looking forward to purchasing a new car next year. I have my eyes on 2025 KIA K4 GT-Line turbo!
elantra hybrid inherited everything from Ioniq hybrid. There isn't any issue with Ioniq hybrid which is almost close to 10 years now. If ioniq hybrid has no issue, then elantra hybrid will have no issue.
I keep my cars for more than 10 years and have never had any rust, so I've always believed rustproofing was just an aftermarket scam. One Honda Accord, one Lexus RX 350, two 5 series BMW's, two Volvo's, no rust. I live on Cape Cod half a mile from the Atlantic Ocean and we salt the roads in winter. Have I just been lucky?
Pwrhaps + you probably wash your car often? I live in Alberta and take good care of my Rav4. Didn't underbody rust proof of it because its mostly plastic aero covers. Quite a bit of rust around the exposed parts namely the suspension. Any exposed underbody (body on frame vehicles mostly) undercoating every 2 years worth it if you plan on keeping your car many years.
@@richardhale2117 The rustproofing need became apparent before car companies started using galvanized steel. In the fifties and sixties you could have rust thru in fenders and rocker panels before the last payment was made on your 36 month car loan.
Wool-Wax. When they clean the wool from sheep, there is a waxy residue left over, and that stuff makes a wonderful rust-protectant for cars. A name for this stuff is called 'Fluid-Film', and a thicker product is called 'Wool-Wax'. Wool-Wax is available only in America, while some rust proofing shops offer to spray the underside of your vehicle with Fluid-Film, that's the stuff that I would go for if I wanted to rust-proof my car.
lol here are some thoughts about last question. The thing is mark up price is insane for toyota. Unless you are lucky enuf to find a good toyota dealer willing to sell at MSRP, other wise most likely you gonna spend 5k-7k(not 3k) more than elantra hybrid. I would say go for Camry if you can find low trim Camry sell at MSRP, other wise you can go for elantra hybrid.
Thank you! I really enjoy your videos. You a such a cute couple.
I love touchless car washes!!
To the Question on “RUST PROOFING ” your new car…
📌I called Toyota Canada regarding this this issue and they did say that if any issues arose in the future that may be relate to the “non Toyota approved Rust Proofing” NOT preformed by the dealership you would in fact VOID your warranty”
* But funny part was THEY had the car sprayed through a “out sourced” company i found out that is using a Very similar product to “Krown” *(I was friends with the parts manager) What ever you do Don’t buy the black rubbery coating they try to sell you immediately after signing the new car contract. It cracks and allow water to travel inside the coating and rust and before you know it your car is full of rust.
📌Also Note, if you do have your Hybrid vehicle sprayed elsewhere like Krown, make the company aware your car is a “Hybrid” and avoid spraying near the Hybrid Battery and hybrid electrical cables in the rear under your car.🎉🎉
My car was basically sprayed around the doors, hinges, wheel wells, springs, trunk/doors, rocker panels and hood areas, basically like Zack said.✅
Just FYI spray pressure wash can and will chip paint, especially from Japanese and Korean cars that have very thin paint. Ask me how I know 😢
Re: dealer proximity. I drive for a total of 2 hours, back & forth, to the dealership because they provide excellent customer service. Yes, before I bought the car. I did not buy from the local dealership, of the same brand, because I witnessed & experienced poor service. I considered visiting other brand dealerships locally. But friends mentioned typically the staff ignores people even when their dealership is empty. They look at the car you drive into the lot with & glare at you from head to toe. Staff don't like what they see they pretend you don't exist. They like what they see but will tell you to go on the website & print out the trim prices from your home printer. 🤦♂🤦♀ They don't offer a test-drive & walk away.🤦♀🤦♂
Lots of good questions and answers. Great show Andrea! ☕️☕️
Whatever became of Zeibart? My dad had his new 1974 Comet "zeibarted" and it was rust free when he sold it 11 years later.
You guys are chicken soup for my soul. Thanks!
heard 2024 porshe taycan has an incorrect headlight software
My 2010 Ford Fusion had dynamic rust proofing: a slow leak from the oil pan.
I think that it is smarter to go for the more expensive loaded Toyota over the cheaper base Lexus. You're paying for a badge and don't get the value. Get a Rav4 hybrid instead of an NX250. Why get the luxury brand if you don't get it fully loaded? All of what i said goes out the window if you can't wait and need a vehicle NOW!
The wait for a rav4 hybrid is over 1 year
@@Chr1s-fm6bi I waited almost 2 years and then they offered me a prime. wouldve been waiting 2.5 years.
@@philipf2705 the Toyota dealer network are a scam. They told me it was impossible to get a new Prius but they had a one with a few thousand miles they wanted almost 10k over what it MSRP. ☹️
@@Chr1s-fm6bi Not in Canada, here they only charge MSRP as the Maximum
@@philipf2705 it was in Canada. The price laws only apply to new vehicles, there are no laws on what the price of a car is sold used. Toyota Canada doesn’t care they claim the dealers are private and they have no control over them.
My advice is that you get a 2010 Ford Sport Trac Adrenalin with V8 and navigation package and all bells and whistles. 😎❤️👍👍
I have seen info from Toyota saying they will refuse to honour their warranty if any of the high voltage components get undercoating on them.
Given the history, I would stay away from all Hyundai and KIA gasoline cars.
And hybrids, and EVs 😂
Their GDIs are junk, but their Korean built naturally aspirated engines are reliable if maintained properly. At least the four 2.7L V6 and the 2.0L 4 cylinder engines have been for me.
I had a 17 Sorento GDI. The engine died at 107000
Toyota will give you some BS about how great they rustproof their vehicles at the factory and you don't need it. Sorry but in central Canada where I live, it WILL rust eventually. I did exactly what you said about using a can and doing it yourself. Toyota dealers will also tell you it will "void" the warranty, then offer you an electronic gadget, which as you stated is 100% dealer snake oil with HUGE mark ups.
Agree! Only some cars like my 2019 Rav4 hybrid are 90% covered on the underside by plastic aero panels. My rustproofing shop said don't bother spraying underbody it's all plastic. I still had high rust areas (like lower doors, etc) rust proof injection treatment done. Those parts are looking great but exposed areas around wheel wells and rear muffler area showing fair bit of rust on my 2019 Rav4 hybrid, 200,000km.
We like our 2015 Kia Forte other than we have had brake issues. Replacing our rear brakes cost $1200. We've had it since new, its a manual with no AC which gives a bit less to go wrong.
Would be great if someone could think of new snow-melding system that does not use salt.
every brand is having issues nowadays welcome to modern vehicles built quick
Let me guess, MX5 and GTI get the garage?
To all you BMW haters look where we at 😊😜 reliable and wonderful BMW
KIA...2019 Sedona, over 100,000km and only brakes, tires and battery, no repairs. Still drives like new, just wish dealer experience for routine maintenance was better.
Maintain it yourself
@@Michael-db4sn simple stuff (filters, battery, wipers, tire rotation) but not fluid changes.
Kia/Hyandai unfortunately have some of worst dealership service records for customer experience. Most new cars make it to 100,000km even when poorly maintained. It's the 100,000km+ where even modern Kia/Hyandais are reputed to be less reliable. Used car marker prices back this up though they've improved.
Is it true Americans aren't big on Hybrids? But we are in Canada?
It's interesting that vehicles built in Alabama plants, being Hyundais, Kias and even Toyotas all seem to have problems. Seems strange that Alabama plants have all the problems. Check the build labels to confirm. 🤔
How many cars do you guys actually own, and what are they?
We own two Porsche Cayenne's, Volkswagen GTI, Honda Civic and soon a Mazda MX-5.
Mazda has been using thin paint for decades. The major rust issues in the early 2000s also was a huge eyesore until they switched steel suppliers. I've always hesitated at Mazda's strategy to move upscale along with their prices. Mazda's drive great but the quality issues don't align with their product and brand aspirations.
The paint is hit and miss. You can have good paint on a car and bad on the same model, just a slight different date of manufacture.
Mine is a 2016 cx5 and no surface rust or paint bubbling or peeling. Others I have seen rust and bubbling even on random colours but others no issues.
It’s a crap shoot.
@@kevinW826
Frankly that makes no sense. And CX5 is from the plants in Japan?
@@chrislim7976 it does. I have worked on CX5s in red with rust and others perfectly fine. Same goes for them in blue and the Mazda 3s and CX50s.
Some of the blacks are good, others are bad. I have even seen a one year old cx30 with bubbling paint.
So yes it doesn’t matter which colour on which vehicle, but on who is doing the painting and if he or she is being rushed.
Anytime I hear the "undercoating" when discussing a dealer applied substance, I feel a little sick. Dealers used to apply a black, tarry mess on just the underside of vehicles which generally hardened and then would trap moisture between the steel and the undercoating with horrific results. If that is what the dealer is suggesting, RUN AWAY! Electronic rust modules don't work and can't work to protect your whole vehicle because you would literally have to run a wire to every disparate part (and there are thousands of them) of the vehicle to get ANY benefit from such a thing. Again, RUN AWAY!
OTOH, rust proofing sprays which allow the product to creep into crevices and need to be periodically applied DO WORK. Dealers who say manufacturers don't recommend such treatments are just trying to BS their way into convincing you to buy what snake oil solution they are pushing. They get a kickback if you fall for it - you are lining their pockets and rewarding their dishonesty.
Would I rust proof a hybrid with a Krown oil system? You bet I would and did (2024 Maverick Lariat hybrid). I also own a 2008 Ford Ranger which was Krowned regularly and is rust free after all these Ontario winters. I wouldn't go out of my way to run my hands along the frame rails if wearing white gloves, but it is nice go know that my spring hangers aren't about to snap off due to corrosion. I enjoy using a bit more soap to wash the excess oil that creeps around the bottom of my door when I wash it in the summer. No big deal, the paint glistens underneath.
I can confirm the rust control modules don’t work at all
:57seconds in, it's all relative, pleased you have this reliability chart pictured, saying "most or least reliable" doesn't tell you much.
With a little math we can deduce the "relative" reliability. A Lexus is on average likely to have 1.35 issues in the third year. A Ford - waaay down near the bottom - is likely to have 2.39, JUST ONE MORE issue than a Lexus. Now we're getting somewhere.
"When you are courting a nice girl an hour seems like a second. When you sit on a red-hot cinder a second seems like an hour. That's relativity." Albert Einstein
Love the Videos. Speaking of hybrids, when is the 2025 Honda Civic Hybrid review coming?
We are driving it this week, stay tuned!
I get the "looks" for having a 2021 KIA Seltos SX (with the DCT) and a C6 Corvette (also with a DCT). I have had NO Problems with the 2021 Seltos and liked it so much I bought out the Lease I had, because I really didn't want to switch to the "new" "normal" transmission. I had a family member that had a 2014 KIA that had 3 engines put in (under KIA Warranty), but that was a 2014. In my view, KIA has come a long way in 10 years and Corvette has gone to? Never Never Land? I would certainly recommend a KIA and my Dealership is state-of-the art.
😂😂😂😂😂
I think Toyota's strategy for the RAV4 is to not give it the quality their Lexus SUVs have. If the RAV4 was as quiet and "nice" then why pay $20k+ for the NX and RX. Koreans always have to give you more to bait you in and Honda, well they want to charge you more for better quality than Toyota.
UX? Meh. NX everyday of the week. Go buy a 1 yr old NX 350h and drive it forever.
UX may be smaller but i thing the UX F sport looks better
@@Hallowsaw my advice to people is get the most popular and durable option if you are buying. And let others take the big hit in the first yr. If you are leasing basically buy whatever you want because you won’t be stuck with a dud after 3 or 4 yrs. There’s a reason why most of the luxury makers don’t bring their small hatchbacks to NA.
camry look so much better than elantra...not even comparison.
like 281 !
Same with my Honda, everyone says gets a honda...I've had 3 brand new & all were lemons.
Now I'm looking into something else...
Khameleon Harris. Gavin Nuisance.
Nancy Pelousy.
I live in California. Hope i don't get arrested.
Hello, I’ve cooled down a bit since your last video.😕
Looking at dependable PDR specialists to fix my dent.
no Kill In Action KIA until they change that name. lol. Just bad luck.
Hybrids are a good way for legacy firms to phase out ICE engines and phase in EVs instead of abruptly abandoning $ billions in ICE and spending $ billions for EV. Firms' hate "stranded assets."
You will never drive a Lexus “into the ground”. It will outlive you with proper maintenance.
THE ONLY PROBLEM WITH CAMRY AND TOYOTAS IN GENERAL ARE THE CHINCY LIGHTS
HI ZACK AND ANDREA... YOU MENTIONED ALONG WITH CERAMIC COATING, PUTTING SOME KIND OF PROTECTOR ON YOUR MX 5.......
WHAT IS THIS PROTECTOR???
We'll be putting paint protection film on the front of the car.
@@andreaspencer9813 THANK YOU SO MUCH 🙏
$47,000.00 cad for the UX !!! Never !
Swirl marks are just normal wear and tear 99% of cars have them, don't sweat it you are not owning a 300SL in a showroom.