I agree im purchasing One this week. I had actually just called JL about this amp and days later a video comes out. Man i was Excited to see this video. Not to mention this thing has a dampening factor greater than 1100. Which is amazing even the HD series dampening factor is this high. I am not sure if there is another amp on the market with a Dampening factor this high. Thumbs up to JL and the supporters.
@@odeball22 most definitely a good high quality option. I was getting 51 volts clean no clipping according to the oscope on my jl. Puts it at around 2600 watts.
I am part owner of a shop, been in the industry for 17 years. I want to carry jl so damn badly. I’m a sony es, alpine asc, kenwood excelon, msc, audio control, hertz/audison and missing jl so badly. but another shop in my county has jl already and they won’t open me up. Love your channel, been watching since you had a small router table sitting on the ground!
I love the RD line.! I have had the RD 900 Which was amazing I am now running the RD 400 on my mids n highs which are The JL C250components And the JL C2 50 coaxial I cannot wait to get my Rd 1500 for my subs. I have been hearing nothing but great things about this amp
I have this installed in my pickup powering 2 10tw3’s at 4ohms and boy oh boy does this thing sound tight and clean. Have a video up, would load more when I am back home.
@@Chris-hc9vb I have them wired to a final 4ohms, if you have the space for the 12’s then go for it. The 12tw3’s have a lower fs so you will get more lows. The RD 1500/1 is doing a pretty good job for me plus it’s a versatile amp that could allow for future upgrades if u need the full 1500 rms
I got the RD1500 to replace a RF punch 1000... both great amps, but this D class amp runs so much cooler than the A/B Rockford Fosgate. The RD 1500 is having a grand time powering a single 2 ohm 15 inch P3 sub in a sealed enclosure. I honestly didn't think the sub would survive for long, but it's been taking everything I've thrown at it, and asking for more. :) Love the RD series of amps. Good performance and looks super clean.
Hwy Mark, love the videos. Phoenix Gold was doing this same sort of thing back in the early to mid -2000's with their Xenon line of amps. They produced the same amount of power no matter the impedance. 8 Ohm (bridged), 4, 2, or 1 Ohm.
Do you have much experience with the xd line? Are they an improvement over the rd? Why is the xd 1000 more pricey than the rd 1500 for quite a bit less power?
Was on the fence about getting a JL rd 900/5 and a fosgate 5 ch. for my new build this summer, now I’m sure I’m going to take the plunge and buy the JL. Their amps are so well made and totally worth the $. Thanks Mark, your videos have helped me design my boxes and system so much better than I used to back in the day.
Have had my RD 900/5 for about 6 months now and it produces a little under 600 watts for the sub channel. Zero distortion or alternator whine coming from C1 door speakers, a clean and crisp sound, love it!!
@@Erik122198 I’ve had the Jl Rd900/5 for 3 years. 2 months ago I played it for 5 hours straight full volume and it’s still doing good. It sounds good and clear.
Dang, Mark....I was planning on getting the 8/800 vxi but now I'm going to seriously consider 2 of the 4/400 with AC608...damn u and your videos 😆...quality vid once again!
It's officially called a C-Clamp Retainer that holds the screws on the cover plate. They are used on throttle and shift linkages in cars and it's an excellent idea for JL to use in this application.
Why does JL Audio make their XD amplifier have a worse S/N ration than some of their lower products? I also don’t get why the HD750 has no new tech to it.
Mark, I have the RD900/5 powering 4 door speakers, and the RD1000/1 pushing 2 12 inch W3s. (The sub channel on the 5 channel amp is not being used) Pioneer double din head unit. At very low volumes, when my RPMs move slightly, I will hear a popping noise out of the front speakers. If I turn the volume up past 6-7 or so, I never hear the popping noise. Have you ever experienced this? Both amps are grounded to a distribution block, and then to the seat belt bolt under the rear seat. (2004 Toyota 4Runner.) 4 gauge power ran on one side of the vehicle, and the RCAs and speaker wire on the opposite side. All 4 of the speakers sound amazing on this setup, and the subs hit very hard. There is also no hiss or whine what so ever, just the popping noise at low volumes. Thanks in advance.
I just got this today. I followed your steps but the clipping light wont come on. What does that mean? I ended up leaving iit in the position you have anyway in your video. I will admit, this amps blows my old JX1000 out of the water.
Question! I have the RD 900/5 and was wondering if I could get a mono and another 10 inch sub to pair with it? Would like to keep everything JL Audio, just don’t know if I have to get rid of my RD 900/5 and get a 4 channel and a mono. Would like more bass, but I do not want to sacrifice mids & highs. Any pointer on how I could achieve what I’m looking for?
Hey man I have a 2016 silverado with the factory bose system . I love the way they sound I just would like more bass and don't wanna change the factory head unit because some of my settings go through it for the truck. What can I do.
Wonder how this compares to the 1200/ 1V3 (slash series) I have two of them on 2 w7 13’s. I wouldn’t know if this amp would with with the 13’s since they’re at 1.5ohm
I have the JL Audio XD100/1v3 and soon I’ll be buying the JL Audio 12” W7 Subwoofer. I also have a JL Audio 600/1v3 running 2 X 10” W3v3 subwoofers, pricey Stuff but well built class D amplifiers and subwoofer.
I have a quick question. Just need some clarification on it. If a person was using just 1 subwoofer on a mono amp...let's say 1200 watts at 2 ohms. Works great. But wants to change it up by replacing that sub with 4 others. Would the subwoofers need to add up to 1200 watts of power handling combined like 300 watts per sub X 4?
According to JL, they advise you to get as close as possible to the subs rated rms. Now to answer ur question, no it depends on ur budget. If you can afford 4 300rms subs, then get them but make sure to buy subs with dual 4ohm voice coils so when wired in series/parallel they give you a final 2ohms as is required by ur amp. Benefits of the 4 subs vs the 1, more cones area i.e. more air being moved therefore bigger bass
have this amp but Im thinking I want to Up grade to the HD1200 x1 because it would give me a cleaner install along with my HD 600 x4 but am i truly losing 300 Watts
I have a important question about running this same amp on a tw3d-4 was told this was too much power to one sub and could blow my sub? Would I be Okay? or should i buy a smallee amp for my sub?
This amp is intense! I have a question that don't know if it's ever been addressed. If you have a DSP, I have the Dayton DSP-408, and want to bypass the amps crossover, and there is no off switch, do you turn it all the way up or down utilize the DSP's more powerful features?
Is this their more affordable range because it seems like a step backwards from their HD series by a big lot lol, don't mind the black and blue light it's just not as compact or high quality looking, missing Tiffany style rca etc too 🤔
I did a car audio upgrade, mids/ highs, sub, custom box, amp for mid/highs, amp for subs high/low converter and epicenter .everything was done the right way, no corners cut. But with that said I’ve been getting white noise coming from the speakers regardless if volume is up or off, it doesn’t get louder with volume tho. I’ve checked everything I can think of maybe I’m missing something. Any suggestions what I can check next? Or have you seen anything like this?
Just a personal experience for me, but if the vehicle you have has an active noise canceling system, they tend to interfere with aftermarket audio. Just sends a constant signal that comes through as white noise. Have to either disable or unplug the module to eliminate it. I experienced it in my current vehicle. Hope you find whats causing it.
I have to wire my RCAs behind my deck in a twisting "8" pattern ( to ground them). If I do not do that, I get a lot of hissing noise. By doing that, I have "a little" hissing noise. Is this my deck that's bad? My RCA connectors on the head unit? Or the RCA cables? Thanks
Get better cables for sure. Cables make a huge difference. But to answer ur question it could be all of it. Most likely it’s the cables tho if u have a good head unit connected correctly
Hi CAF I came accross your channel trying to learn how to upgrade my stock audio and love the knowledge you share. Could you offer advice on how to become a pro like yourself? Did you attend a trade school? What course(s) did you take? How long has it taken you to aquire all the awesome knowledge you share? Any books you recommend? I hope it's not too much info to ask of you, just thought maybe others might have these same questions. Thanks again for all you share with us. ☮️
Ps glad they ditched the famous plugs that came with the hd-series that were horrific to get in or out I feel like putting a little bit of petroleum jelly on mine lol
Mark, I need your help. What determines what input voltage high/ low is selected? I have an aftermarket stereo DDX9907XR with 5volt preamp output. Does that make it a high voltage output? I have this amp, and the voltage output is set to high by the installer. I don’t want to damage my amps or subs, and I want to make sure the right selection has been made. Do you have a video explaining when to select high/ low voltage input?
Low voltage input is from RCAs, High voltage input is used when you don't have RCA output on headunit (most stock headunits don't have) so you have to connect to speaker outputs. RCAs usually go up to 2V, at 5V you should be using high voltage inputs. If amp makes rated power with it selected as it is, i wouldn't change anything. Each amp is different, you can check max input voltage in manual.
@@vencalade No problem. For example, i used to have Infinity 475a for which i still have manual and it says "Input sensitivity (Low Level Input): 600mV-6V". That amplifier would be happy with 5V inputs. My older amp from Blaupunkt had max low level input 4V so 5V could damage preamplifier section. It's always best idea to read manual. EDIT: English isn't my native language so i didn't see that you wrote that you have amplifier from the video, in manual for RD1500/1 says "Switchable from 200 mV - 2 V RMS (Low) to 800 mV - 8 V RMS (High)" so yeah, it should stay on High.
With quality amplifiers like JL Audio no. Some lesser amps you will notice noise and loss of output with heavy bass on the speakers, but not on a quality amplifier. Nice to have the simplified wiring and system design.
I didn't hear you tell them when picking it an amplifier it can be important to also check to see in what orientation is the amp is suitable to be mounted! Not all orientations are acceptable for all amps due to the heat sinks and other circuitry inside the amp. Some need to be orientated in certain orientations in order to give off the heat the produce without melting down! Otherwise good job. I do appreciate your channel.
New subscriber, have watched quite a number of your vids into the wee hours of the night.. Great, detailed explanations and your craftsmanship👀 is LEGIT!!! continue the great work👍👍👍
How did u set the ohms meaning 1 or 2 on the switch. I just ordered the hd750 because it looked smaller. I have a 12w7ae in a g37 sedan with a jl jx1000 right now
Hey brother, recently found your channel and it’s great! I’m an old bass head 20 years out of the game! My last system was a single JL 10w7 and a JL slash 1000/1v1. Soon I’m having 2 JL 10w7s installed. The shop recommended the RD1500/1 to drive them. I’m curious of your thoughts on that vs say an HD1200/1? And since you’ve been in the game a long time, how would you compare them to the old 1000/1v1 slashes from the early 2000’s? Mainly an SPL build, but I’ll have a component set up front driven by a 400/4. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts, and thank you for the great content! 🙏🏼🙇🏻♂️
Sold separately which is the intelligent thing to do. I rarely use a bass remote with a bass amplifier anymore because I'll use a DSP controller instead for that amp. Why pay for something to be included when I'm not going to use it?
@@CarAudioFabrication why pay something what should be included.. 90% of car audio guys i know uses bass knob and dont wanna use dsp at all..and for me..cause of newborn i would love to have bass knob to completly lower the bass when kids are around..
![JL Audio RD1000/1 Amp Dyno Test [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2mmx07rzB9s/mqdefault.jpg)
I've had the rd1000 and rd 400/4 for a few years and they are fantastic, clean and powerful.
I have the same setup and I love it
Finally somebody reviewed this thing. Btw I have one and it does WAY more than 1500 watts and it does it nice and clean!
That's the biggest thing, it's not uncommon for amps the make a lot of power nowadays, but this amp sounds amazing doing it.
I agree im purchasing One this week. I had actually just called JL about this amp and days later a video comes out. Man i was Excited to see this video. Not to mention this thing has a dampening factor greater than 1100. Which is amazing even the HD series dampening factor is this high. I am not sure if there is another amp on the market with a Dampening factor this high. Thumbs up to JL and the supporters.
The Rockford 1500 also does way above advertised. Pretty sure around 2300 watts
@@odeball22 most definitely a good high quality option. I was getting 51 volts clean no clipping according to the oscope on my jl. Puts it at around 2600 watts.
i love the way it looks. that plastic looks really premium. I just saw it had a lower s/n ratio and i was worried about it. i think it was like 60db
I am part owner of a shop, been in the industry for 17 years. I want to carry jl so damn badly. I’m a sony es, alpine asc, kenwood excelon, msc, audio control, hertz/audison and missing jl so badly. but another shop in my county has jl already and they won’t open me up. Love your channel, been watching since you had a small router table sitting on the ground!
I love the RD line.!
I have had the RD 900 Which was amazing I am now running the RD 400 on my mids n highs which are The JL C250components And the JL C2 50 coaxial I cannot wait to get my Rd 1500 for my subs. I have been hearing nothing but great things about this amp
I've had this amp for probably 3yrs I have zero complaints
Have this bad boy for my 12w6 in a 4th bandpass. Since 2 years, no issues. Gotta love JL
I have this installed in my pickup powering 2 10tw3’s at 4ohms and boy oh boy does this thing sound tight and clean. Have a video up, would load more when I am back home.
Are you running at 4ohms or do you have 4ohm speakers wired to 1 ohm ? Thkg of getting a pair of jl tw3 12’s but not sure about a amp to push them.
@@Chris-hc9vb I have them wired to a final 4ohms, if you have the space for the 12’s then go for it. The 12tw3’s have a lower fs so you will get more lows. The RD 1500/1 is doing a pretty good job for me plus it’s a versatile amp that could allow for future upgrades if u need the full 1500 rms
I got the RD1500 to replace a RF punch 1000... both great amps, but this D class amp runs so much cooler than the A/B Rockford Fosgate.
The RD 1500 is having a grand time powering a single 2 ohm 15 inch P3 sub in a sealed enclosure. I honestly didn't think the sub would survive for long, but it's been taking everything I've thrown at it, and asking for more. :)
Love the RD series of amps. Good performance and looks super clean.
Hwy Mark, love the videos. Phoenix Gold was doing this same sort of thing back in the early to mid -2000's with their Xenon line of amps. They produced the same amount of power no matter the impedance. 8 Ohm (bridged), 4, 2, or 1 Ohm.
Been running a RD1000/1 for a year now and love it.
Do you have much experience with the xd line? Are they an improvement over the rd? Why is the xd 1000 more pricey than the rd 1500 for quite a bit less power?
I have the RD 500/1 on two JL 10’s and it absolutely slams. Also I have the RD 400/4 on two sets of JL Evolution 6.5 separates.
Was on the fence about getting a JL rd 900/5 and a fosgate 5 ch. for my new build this summer, now I’m sure I’m going to take the plunge and buy the JL. Their amps are so well made and totally worth the $.
Thanks Mark, your videos have helped me design my boxes and system so much better than I used to back in the day.
Have had my RD 900/5 for about 6 months now and it produces a little under 600 watts for the sub channel. Zero distortion or alternator whine coming from C1 door speakers, a clean and crisp sound, love it!!
@@Erik122198 I’ve had the Jl Rd900/5 for 3 years. 2 months ago I played it for 5 hours straight full volume and it’s still doing good. It sounds good and clear.
Dang, Mark....I was planning on getting the 8/800 vxi but now I'm going to seriously consider 2 of the 4/400 with AC608...damn u and your videos 😆...quality vid once again!
Go with the that vxi amp… trust me with the new tun features it’s going to be 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Got my RD 1500/1. Now to get the RD 400/4. Love JL audio. Just wish the money I spent included the RBC-1 🤣😂
All I need is someone to dyno this baby
When I left this life the W7 woofers were the king. Are they still!?
Yes they still are, genuine never goes out of style
O hell yea they are. JL is king
awesome product review, this definitely helped me lock in my decision to get the JL RD1000 for 2 103w3’s svc 4 ohmmer’s
Awesome!
I have 4 12w3v3-4 and 2 RD1000/1 and they pund so nice. So defenatelly get the rd1000/1
It's officially called a C-Clamp Retainer that holds the screws on the cover plate. They are used on throttle and shift linkages in cars and it's an excellent idea for JL to use in this application.
What 8’ sub will you guys recommend for his amp ?
Dd 2508
Dd 608
Sundown u8 or x8
Ct meso 8
Thank a lot bro 👍🏻
Why does JL Audio make their XD amplifier have a worse S/N ration than some of their lower products? I also don’t get why the HD750 has no new tech to it.
Can I use this on 2 w6v2 10’s at 1 ohm
i would love thoughts on the down 4 sound jp1.2z3 same power 1/4 the price and 1/3 the size.....
Mark, I have the RD900/5 powering 4 door speakers, and the RD1000/1 pushing 2 12 inch W3s. (The sub channel on the 5 channel amp is not being used) Pioneer double din head unit. At very low volumes, when my RPMs move slightly, I will hear a popping noise out of the front speakers. If I turn the volume up past 6-7 or so, I never hear the popping noise. Have you ever experienced this? Both amps are grounded to a distribution block, and then to the seat belt bolt under the rear seat. (2004 Toyota 4Runner.) 4 gauge power ran on one side of the vehicle, and the RCAs and speaker wire on the opposite side. All 4 of the speakers sound amazing on this setup, and the subs hit very hard. There is also no hiss or whine what so ever, just the popping noise at low volumes. Thanks in advance.
With the rd 500/1 with the way the input is designed do you still need to run a lc2i with these amps??
What are the best setting for a 13” w7 and a lc7
I just got this today. I followed your steps but the clipping light wont come on. What does that mean? I ended up leaving iit in the position you have anyway in your video. I will admit, this amps blows my old JX1000 out of the water.
So I can hook up the door speakers to this amp along with my subs?
Which is a better fosgate power t1500 or this ?
What was the music you demonstrated at the end please ?
Question! I have the RD 900/5 and was wondering if I could get a mono and another 10 inch sub to pair with it? Would like to keep everything JL Audio, just don’t know if I have to get rid of my RD 900/5 and get a 4 channel and a mono. Would like more bass, but I do not want to sacrifice mids & highs. Any pointer on how I could achieve what I’m looking for?
can i use this TO RUN AND POWER THE JL AUDIO HO112R-W7AE ? Thanks
Can you do a review like this on the RE900/5 ?
Any comparison vs the hd1200/1?...
Could I use this amp for jl 10w7 and door speakers or is this just for one speaker
JL needs to make a 3000/1 version of this and bigger amps overall
Love your setup bro, do you have a video of you building your box with the head unit and what kind of speakers are you using
Hey man I have a 2016 silverado with the factory bose system . I love the way they sound I just would like more bass and don't wanna change the factory head unit because some of my settings go through it for the truck. What can I do.
Wonder how this compares to the 1200/ 1V3 (slash series) I have two of them on 2 w7 13’s. I wouldn’t know if this amp would with with the 13’s since they’re at 1.5ohm
I have the same amp in a Yukon wut do u think is better a 12w7 or 2 12 w6
I have the JL Audio XD100/1v3 and soon I’ll be buying the JL Audio 12” W7 Subwoofer. I also have a JL Audio 600/1v3 running 2 X 10” W3v3 subwoofers, pricey Stuff but well built class D amplifiers and subwoofer.
I have this amp on two JL Audio 10W3v3 going in a ported box. This amplifier doesn’t have a subsonic filter, Do I need a subsonic filter?
I have a quick question. Just need some clarification on it. If a person was using just 1 subwoofer on a mono amp...let's say 1200 watts at 2 ohms. Works great. But wants to change it up by replacing that sub with 4 others. Would the subwoofers need to add up to 1200 watts of power handling combined like 300 watts per sub X 4?
According to JL, they advise you to get as close as possible to the subs rated rms. Now to answer ur question, no it depends on ur budget. If you can afford 4 300rms subs, then get them but make sure to buy subs with dual 4ohm voice coils so when wired in series/parallel they give you a final 2ohms as is required by ur amp. Benefits of the 4 subs vs the 1, more cones area i.e. more air being moved therefore bigger bass
Awesome amp from an awesome company.
have this amp but Im thinking I want to Up grade to the HD1200 x1 because it would give me a cleaner install along with my HD 600 x4 but am i truly losing 300 Watts
Is this one better than the xd 1000.1?
Stinger 8000 rca or JL rca?
I have a important question about running this same amp on a tw3d-4 was told this was too much power to one sub and could blow my sub? Would I be Okay? or should i buy a smallee amp for my sub?
This amp is intense! I have a question that don't know if it's ever been addressed. If you have a DSP, I have the Dayton DSP-408, and want to bypass the amps crossover, and there is no off switch, do you turn it all the way up or down utilize the DSP's more powerful features?
It is a beast! Check out this related video for discussion similar to your question: ua-cam.com/video/C9wojITGcyw/v-deo.html
All the way up
@@dr73dyt Thx dude!
Is this their more affordable range because it seems like a step backwards from their HD series by a big lot lol, don't mind the black and blue light it's just not as compact or high quality looking, missing Tiffany style rca etc too 🤔
It's @. 900 dollar amp
I did a car audio upgrade, mids/ highs, sub, custom box, amp for mid/highs, amp for subs high/low converter and epicenter .everything was done the right way, no corners cut. But with that said I’ve been getting white noise coming from the speakers regardless if volume is up or off, it doesn’t get louder with volume tho. I’ve checked everything I can think of maybe I’m missing something. Any suggestions what I can check next? Or have you seen anything like this?
Just a personal experience for me, but if the vehicle you have has an active noise canceling system, they tend to interfere with aftermarket audio. Just sends a constant signal that comes through as white noise. Have to either disable or unplug the module to eliminate it. I experienced it in my current vehicle. Hope you find whats causing it.
Just got this amp brand new in the box for 500
I have to wire my RCAs behind my deck in a twisting "8" pattern ( to ground them). If I do not do that, I get a lot of hissing noise. By doing that, I have "a little" hissing noise. Is this my deck that's bad? My RCA connectors on the head unit? Or the RCA cables? Thanks
Get better cables for sure. Cables make a huge difference. But to answer ur question it could be all of it. Most likely it’s the cables tho if u have a good head unit connected correctly
Can it deal with .75 ohm to run a w7 13 in parallel?
Would this amp easily power a 1500 watt rms sundown?
Word is it actually pushes above 2000
Hi CAF I came accross your channel trying to learn how to upgrade my stock audio and love the knowledge you share. Could you offer advice on how to become a pro like yourself? Did you attend a trade school? What course(s) did you take? How long has it taken you to aquire all the awesome knowledge you share? Any books you recommend? I hope it's not too much info to ask of you, just thought maybe others might have these same questions. Thanks again for all you share with us. ☮️
😍😍😍i wish i had money for them.
Ps glad they ditched the famous plugs that came with the hd-series that were horrific to get in or out I feel like putting a little bit of petroleum jelly on mine lol
Hi 😊 is this RD1500 good to use a 12w7 1.5 ohms and set the amp at 2ohms?
What is monoblock?
Mark, I need your help. What determines what input voltage high/ low is selected? I have an aftermarket stereo DDX9907XR with 5volt preamp output. Does that make it a high voltage output?
I have this amp, and the voltage output is set to high by the installer. I don’t want to damage my amps or subs, and I want to make sure the right selection has been made.
Do you have a video explaining when to select high/ low voltage input?
Low voltage input is from RCAs, High voltage input is used when you don't have RCA output on headunit (most stock headunits don't have) so you have to connect to speaker outputs.
RCAs usually go up to 2V, at 5V you should be using high voltage inputs. If amp makes rated power with it selected as it is, i wouldn't change anything.
Each amp is different, you can check max input voltage in manual.
@@setecastronomy_hc Thanks for you help. I’m new to this and everything you said is greatly appreciated, and is very helpful
@@vencalade No problem.
For example, i used to have Infinity 475a for which i still have manual and it says "Input sensitivity (Low Level Input): 600mV-6V". That amplifier would be happy with 5V inputs. My older amp from Blaupunkt had max low level input 4V so 5V could damage preamplifier section. It's always best idea to read manual.
EDIT: English isn't my native language so i didn't see that you wrote that you have amplifier from the video, in manual for RD1500/1 says "Switchable from 200 mV - 2 V RMS (Low) to 800 mV - 8 V RMS (High)" so yeah, it should stay on High.
@@setecastronomy_hc I have the JL Audio RD1500/1 and head unit Kenwood DDX9907XR
I've been eyeing the RD 900/5 for a while and my question is do I lose any performance by going with a 5 channel versus a mono/4-channel setup?
With quality amplifiers like JL Audio no. Some lesser amps you will notice noise and loss of output with heavy bass on the speakers, but not on a quality amplifier. Nice to have the simplified wiring and system design.
@@CarAudioFabrication Thank you!
I have rd1000/1 to 2 10w3v3 subs, everything is wired properly but my clipping light is not coming on at all, any ideas?
What head unit are you using?
I didn't hear you tell them when picking it an amplifier it can be important to also check to see in what orientation is the amp is suitable to be mounted! Not all orientations are acceptable for all amps due to the heat sinks and other circuitry inside the amp. Some need to be orientated in certain orientations in order to give off the heat the produce without melting down! Otherwise good job.
I do appreciate your channel.
New subscriber, have watched quite a number of your vids into the wee hours of the night.. Great, detailed explanations and your craftsmanship👀 is LEGIT!!! continue the great work👍👍👍
In the PC world we call those screws "captive screws" or "captive thumb screws".
I got this for dual JL 10” … too much? 😅
Waiting to get my box built for two 12w7s so I can hook this amp up!
How did u set the ohms meaning 1 or 2 on the switch. I just ordered the hd750 because it looked smaller. I have a 12w7ae in a g37 sedan with a jl jx1000 right now
I'm confused because he says the remote turn on through the RCAs he said both are high level that doesn't make sense.
I hv this beast on 2 w7 12s slams
iv had my JLA system going on 15 years and it still pounds. thats why i go JLA.
Can this handle 3 tw5-13.5"? Any1
For sure they’ll be perfect I had that same system
I have one powering a pair of 12W7's, and they slam!!
That's awesome!
They both need one each
So its just like RF T1500-1BDCP
Hey brother, recently found your channel and it’s great! I’m an old bass head 20 years out of the game! My last system was a single JL 10w7 and a JL slash 1000/1v1.
Soon I’m having 2 JL 10w7s installed. The shop recommended the RD1500/1 to drive them. I’m curious of your thoughts on that vs say an HD1200/1? And since you’ve been in the game a long time, how would you compare them to the old 1000/1v1 slashes from the early 2000’s? Mainly an SPL build, but I’ll have a component set up front driven by a 400/4.
Looking forward to hearing your thoughts, and thank you for the great content! 🙏🏼🙇🏻♂️
No bass remote
Sold separately which is the intelligent thing to do. I rarely use a bass remote with a bass amplifier anymore because I'll use a DSP controller instead for that amp. Why pay for something to be included when I'm not going to use it?
@@CarAudioFabrication why pay something what should be included.. 90% of car audio guys i know uses bass knob and dont wanna use dsp at all..and for me..cause of newborn i would love to have bass knob to completly lower the bass when kids are around..
It's sooo... Small
First 💀
Boom!