FWIW, the music you choose for your videos is simply wonderful. And the part that few will notice is that you take the effort to make sure that the music is *just the right* level. Not blaring, not wildly fluctuating, not too much or too little when the tools are running...and when your dialogue comes in and out -- the levels are normalized.. This is just one small thing that makes your videos truly pro-level. As for me, I absolutely know how much work that takes, and I thank you for doing it. For another note, your teaching is solid, your information is solid, and I am 100% hooked on watching your channel. Thanks for all you do.
Without going to the expense of purchasing another tool, you can get similar results by attaching a hook and loop backing plate to an angle grinder. I didn't know anyone made them 'till I found one this past summer. Now I use it a lot. I enjoy all your videos and love the music you add to them!
I just think that the people who have given a thumbs down on your videos are people who just don't enjoy the wood works of a mill or beauty of live edge lumber I like and enjoy your videos thanks for letting us view them
When I mill a high value log to be slabbed , I use my electric pressure washer and spray both faces. Then take a pic . Now I have a pic of what the wood will look like when surfaced and finished. The pic is available right now to show potential clients. Now all you have to do is dry the wood , mark them per picture # so you can find it easy. No more "show me all of those 300 slices of wood so I can think about it" . You have digital pics to show them that will be a far better representation of the color and figure of the slices . Now the pics do show FLAT boards ,, not what the board may look like after it is dried .You can send out 1000 pics of the boards but you cant show 1000 boards without allot of very low pay work.
I have to second the pictures off the mill. It doesn't take a whole lot of time, and you can just scribble numbers on the end of your slabs which match the default numbering scheme of your camera. Not only does it help you sell it to your customers, but it also saves the sanity when you remember a specific log you cut 2 years ago but can't for remember where it is or if you ended up selling it,
I randomly watched one of your videos a few years ago and I recently purchased some land, a tractor and now looking into buying my first sawmill. Keep making videos!
I've recently discovered this fine young man and I'm an instant fan. I used to love cutting up trees years ago. He gives Bob Ross a run for his money in the ASMR department. These wonderful videos fill me with a sense of wonderment and serenity. Top-notch videographer too
I would like to offer a second option to quickly clean the surface - and one which might save your lungs a bit (even outside, I hate dealing with that much sanding...). I think it is Triton who makes one right now - but a large hand held power planer. Their planer is about 7" wide. Set your cut pretty shallow and with 3 or 4 passes you can clean up several square feet of the face...in a few minutes you can surface an entire 8' slab. Don't recall the prices, but you can probably pick up 2 or 3 for the same price as the Festool. Along the same lines (though a bit more pricey and harder to find is something like the Makita 12" hand plane. They are sold mainly for timber framers - but they do a treat for saw mills too to quickly knock the mineral stains off the wood from the kiln.
We use a 20” planer with a helix head for most stock off the woodmizer. For larger boards we use the Lucas mill with the planing and sanding attachments.
I like your videos, there's always a doosh somewhere waiting to try to ruin somebody's day and probably jealous cause they don't have a mill. Don't let them win, keep posting and helping me learn lol
I know this is a 4 yr old vid. but another good option at a great savings ran on AIR... Harbor has a "Geared" 6" orbital sander and with 36/40 grit it is a Beast. This is not like the standard "Palm Orbitals" this unit is kinda built like a side grinder or angle grinder, low RPM's but Torque'y. and not as much dust kicked up due to it's slower turn. and its slow enough you can hold it flat and not gouge or have very bad scratches like holding the festool at an angle. Great video.
I sell a lot of slabs . I like to sand and clean them up before I show them . Standing slabs upright also makes customers shopping easier . Good video as usual .
Thanks this is good advice. Have a small Saw Mill in Manitoba Canada. We can cut 24”. Just started selling. We mostly have Burr Oak up here it’s quite beautiful.
love how you think of the customer and want to deliver your best! ive been a cabinet maker all my working career since 96. i'm watching to learn butt, i see something that's gonna cost ya. if ya mostly use the edge of your disk, your rounding the base to where it aint flat anymore. besides, you could probably surface real close to flat with that thing. i do want to start a little saw mill here soon. i apreciate you showing us what youve learned. don't stop
So basically a 4 1/2 " angle grinder with a sanding pad & disk. Milwaukee or DeWalt have long-lasting service in their tools also I just picked up a new.Jupiter pneumatic 7 in grinder/sander. I'm kind of partial to air tools.. I made my living using tools. A standard angle grinder will do just fine and the cost is a bunch lower. keep up the great work. !!!!!!
I took a 1 gallon insect sprayer and soaked it.I dont know if I would do it in cool weather though.It turns the wood kinda white in some cases.On cedar fences it works real good.Looks like that tool you have works pretty good!
If you can afford it, or already own one, use a large fan to blow the dust away. I use one whenever I’m working with a table saw or really any saw outside. It seems like this would help your dust management while you’re sanding.
Thanks, how did it do compared to other tools for the seat? I might take this by Curtis Buchanan's shop for a test run by him sometime. If I can get him to put his adze away.
Out of the Woods it wasn’t as strong as an angle grinder with an aggressive wheel like Kutzall. The RAS works and is great for dust control but takes a lot longer for carving seats in hardwood.
You are a very considerate fellow and I enjoy your excellent videos. I own A woodmiser LT 40 hydraulic for my own use and appreciate learning from a man who does this for a living.
Seven inch makita planer or even a four inch if you know haw to use it . Always run it at a slight angle so the outfeed table , or heel of the planer laps ont the previous pass . This keeps it from tipping.
I do the same thing but with a hand held belt sander. It don't leave any swirl marks on the slab try it I think you'll be impressed. Tim Cupp Atkinson Ga
Great video... nice to see your channel growing. Another thing you can do right off the mill is, after dusting off the slab, use a piece of heavy chalk to give it an inventory number, then wet it and snap a quick picture. You can still read the chalk through the stain, and you can show what it looks like underneath wetted out before it headed into the kiln.
Looks great TFP! BTW, I've always wondered why people hit dislike for most videos; why not just click out? Glad to see I'm not the only one wondering about it. Now to find your videos on building a kiln...
we actually use a 7" polisher machine to do the sanding, the one they use for sanding and polishing surfboards... I do 36 or 40 grid and then 220 just for the feel
I'm buying a mill today and hope in maine I can find a good contract too sell my product. I love your show keep up the good work bud. I miss Tennessee lol.
We use a 3"×21" belt sander with 36 grit ceramic belts that works pretty good. I can see how this tool could be handy on a lot of other projects though! Good video!
Hey bro from a fellow wood worker...if you keep your sander flat it will also keep your slabs flatter and your going to wear out your hook and loop backer pad on your tool..try it out bud you'll see what I'm saying,plus your customers will be a lot happier!!
i never operated a sawmill..never used a chainsaw..but i love wood..i love our Land..and i really like hard working People who have a passion for what they do..that Sir, you have in spades1
Thanks for the vid. We are looking to get out of the city and start a small business and this is a potential path to that. I can never find a video on where people get their raw logs to start with, if anyone could chime in. Thanks for the info, from Canada. Take care and be safe.
I spent 15 years running construction crews and about 13 years in retail management. I have had a mill for about 6 years. I've been running it for personal projects. I am thinking of transitioning to running for business and profit. I'm in western NC. Would love to see your set up and get advice on some things.
Nathan This is one of the best vids you have put out yet . Very uninformative all the right information , well done . Wood workers will get a lot out of it , you have excelled again . I wish I was there to see it all happening , the vid quality is improving all the time , and the content will have a lot to give for many years to come ..
That's beautiful wood... as a finisher I can see the potential of a properly finished product just by seeing the grain of the wood. Although that's not my preferred method to make the grain pop, you can always refer to the old saying "there's more than one way to skin a cat". Plus that festool looks like it's fun to use. Good job.
thanks a lot for this video. I am buying a band saw preliminary to build a barn on the farm. but I am thinking about maybe building some mini barns and i was thinking about some slab benches. I wish I had access to some nicer trees for the slabs. ll be watching more of your material thanks again
I do not own a kiln so forgive me if this is a dumb question. Would it alleviate the stain problem any if the boards were loaded with a slight side to side angle so the water run off? Or is it not caused by standing water slowly evaporating off the face?
Well I cut a lot of cootwood in alaska and birch too but the cottonwood was the one that liked to curl or stain. I started doing what an old timer next to me did. He would saw and then take it down to the lake behind us and throw it in for about two or three days. I asked him why and he said that the natural oil in the wood would soak out and then when he dried it, it didn't take as long and it wasn't curled or stained!! Oh if you like that sander, then try the big belt one and you will be amazed at how much leveler and no scratches and stuff. Way further ahead to use the belt instead of circular sander!! Just saying. It is the oil in walnut that makes those stains and it comes to the surface when drying
thanks for watching but I am not looking for a finished surface, or to get it level, people who buy my slabs run them through a planer, this is just used to show them what the potential is,
Couldn't agree more about people being so anxious to hit the dislike button. LOL. I couldn't afford a Festool but I did happen to order relatively the same tool made by Bosch yesterday. It is the 1250 DEVS. I am a painting contractor and will be using it to refinish wood floors and prep cabinets for painting as well as using it on the heavy-duty mode for Wood home Exteriors.
WOW brother that tool sure does work fast at removing the wood and the stains!! Any tips you want to share with the channel I know there are quite a few folks that will benefit from them. Cant wait for the next video!
I have seen you pour water from a gallon jug onto your fresh cut slabs to show off the grain. Do you think any of the dried wood stains are a result of the minerals in the water? Just curious.
Look for a used floor sander! you will save lots of time and have a more consistent job. A regular grinder works fine with the proper attachment for paper or a flap disk. For tiny stuff I have a rotozip with the cutting/sanding attachment takes from memory 2.5" cutting wheel or same round of paper. Other then that drum sanders pretty easy to build.
Quite the difference in the appearance of the slab after it's been sanded. I'm sure running a standard handheld belt sander over it with a very coarse grit belt would get a similar result just as fast.
Great video as usual. How do you all, anyone, set prices for hardwood and slabs? Is it market driven or based on the desirability of a piece of lumber (figure, color, ect)?
That is very cool. I have just got into it. I bought a Norwood LM29 and I'm getting ready to do some cedar lined closets in my house. Will it be better to shiplap or just but the edges.
That certainly makes a huge difference in seeing the grain and color. It would be unwise to show to a customer without cleaning them up first. Good video. Thanks.
the staining is from the drying process. the faster the moisture is removed the humidity in the kiln goes up just like in bathroom taking a shower. you get vapor buildup on the boards above each each other and then they form droplets that drop back on the board causing the stain. thats why I love my solar kiln to start the drying they heat during the day and allow the boards to cool in the night . it reduces the moisture buildup and reduces warping to. but does extend the drying time some. it does matter if you have a dehumidiferr in the kiln. the moisture builds up so fast and the dehumidifier cant keep up to frmove it fast enough.
Very nice tip. And nice of you to share it. You know it's the little things that can differentiate you from your competition. Gotta do the extras that nobody else wants to do. Great video
Nice work. I woukd really like to see what a good heavy duty belt sander woukd fo. I think it would be much faster on flats. For dipped surfaces maybe not.
What is the RPM that the sander is running at? and why are you tipping it and only sanding with just the one edge of the sander instead of keeping it flat and using the whole sanding disc? How well is the hook and loop standing up to use? the way you are holding it tipped to one side and only sanding with the edge of the disc i would imagine the disc wearing out fast on that edge and wearing thru and taking out the hook and loop part that is on the sander? do they have some way of replacing it when it wears out. I make my own discs, sanding pads and sanding discs which i just use on my angle grinders. the hook and loop attachment method is just not practicable tho and wears out in no time so ive resorted to just using spray adhesive but you have to find angle grinders that run at a lower RPM or they just throw the discs, my 7-9" angle grinder with a fresh 36grit sanding disc will remove some serious product, it throws quite the rooster tail of dust
100% agree with everything you just said! I do this with a normal angle grinder and sending pad, does a perfect job. The longer the strokes are are the better the finish, and I try not to pause the pad on the wood, because it will leave divots on the surface! I just lift away the end of the stroke and back while the tool is moving. Great video Cheers
It's one of Festool's cheapest sanders though certainly more $$ than an angle grinder. If you don't use the dust collection capability it may not make sense. Have you tried putting something like an Oneida Dust Deputy cyclone ahead of your dust extractor? I mounted one on top of my CT-26 (they're made to fit perfectly) and it's effective enough for indoor use with my Festool sanders, routers, jigsaw, and tracksaw. Or possibly use a hand-held power planer? I've cleaned up lots of weathered reclaimed wood that way.
Szilard Pinter great advise. Normal grinders run at 10000 rpm. I’m sure the one shown runs less than 5000. Definitely going to give it a whirl. ( probably a swirl too)
A wire cup brush on the angle grinder will do the same thing and never wear out. I just keep a block plane in my pocket and show them how quickly the staining comes off.
only brought it up because it was pointed out to me by someone in this area that just recently retired and said I was doing it all wrong, I'm trying it on this fresh batch to see how well it works. different wood but same principle he said... I'm drying black cherry atm. finally got to cut some, now waiting on a few parts to bring my woodmizer up to par for the other cuttings I need to do. can't wait to see how this drying works compared to the way I was taught.
hi great video with usefull advice which is rare these days ! i just wonder if you could jet wash the surface clean it might be worth a try i dont know just a thought
Them stains happen in part to the tree or log trying to safe it self so just like when a tree gets bad spot and the tree grows around it we have all seen it so same with the slabs the wood try’s to safe the heart of the board where the heart is stronger the stains will show more
Some people just want everybody to be as sad and mean as they are. Great insight and video! It looks like some sort of water stains. I think it's because of the rate at which the water in the wood comes to the surface to be evaporated off. Are there any on the top slabs in the stacks or just on the lower slabs? I know there can't be so much moisture that it's dripping on the lower pieces.
An oldie and goldy from the past
FWIW, the music you choose for your videos is simply wonderful. And the part that few will notice is that you take the effort to make sure that the music is *just the right* level. Not blaring, not wildly fluctuating, not too much or too little when the tools are running...and when your dialogue comes in and out -- the levels are normalized..
This is just one small thing that makes your videos truly pro-level. As for me, I absolutely know how much work that takes, and I thank you for doing it.
For another note, your teaching is solid, your information is solid, and I am 100% hooked on watching your channel.
Thanks for all you do.
Without going to the expense of purchasing another tool, you can get similar results by attaching a hook and loop backing plate to an angle grinder. I didn't know anyone made them 'till I found one this past summer. Now I use it a lot. I enjoy all your videos and love the music you add to them!
I just think that the people who have given a thumbs down on your videos are people who just don't enjoy the wood works of a mill or beauty of live edge lumber I like and enjoy your videos thanks for letting us view them
Well said!
I get a real bang out of your comments about keeping the slabs
after you sand them and other thi gs you said!!!
Great idea. Marketing is important. Show your product in its best condition.
That's a great point.
You run the best sawmill Channel on UA-cam thanks for all the tips and tricks of the trade
I appreciate that!
When I mill a high value log to be slabbed , I use my electric pressure washer and spray both faces. Then take a pic . Now I have a pic of what the wood will look like when surfaced and finished. The pic is available right now to show potential clients. Now all you have to do is dry the wood , mark them per picture # so you can find it easy. No more "show me all of those 300 slices of wood so I can think about it" . You have digital pics to show them that will be a far better representation of the color and figure of the slices . Now the pics do show FLAT boards ,, not what the board may look like after it is dried .You can send out 1000 pics of the boards but you cant show 1000 boards without allot of very low pay work.
I have to second the pictures off the mill. It doesn't take a whole lot of time, and you can just scribble numbers on the end of your slabs which match the default numbering scheme of your camera. Not only does it help you sell it to your customers, but it also saves the sanity when you remember a specific log you cut 2 years ago but can't for remember where it is or if you ended up selling it,
I really enjoyed this video and I learned a lot about making and cleaning up slab wood. Thanks for being a great teacher Nathan. Cheers Scott Sherwood
I randomly watched one of your videos a few years ago and I recently purchased some land, a tractor and now looking into buying my first sawmill. Keep making videos!
That is awesome!
I've recently discovered this fine young man and I'm an instant fan. I used to love cutting up trees years ago. He gives Bob Ross a run for his money in the ASMR department. These wonderful videos fill me with a sense of wonderment and serenity. Top-notch videographer too
I would like to offer a second option to quickly clean the surface - and one which might save your lungs a bit (even outside, I hate dealing with that much sanding...). I think it is Triton who makes one right now - but a large hand held power planer. Their planer is about 7" wide. Set your cut pretty shallow and with 3 or 4 passes you can clean up several square feet of the face...in a few minutes you can surface an entire 8' slab. Don't recall the prices, but you can probably pick up 2 or 3 for the same price as the Festool.
Along the same lines (though a bit more pricey and harder to find is something like the Makita 12" hand plane. They are sold mainly for timber framers - but they do a treat for saw mills too to quickly knock the mineral stains off the wood from the kiln.
We use a 20” planer with a helix head for most stock off the woodmizer. For larger boards we use the Lucas mill with the planing and sanding attachments.
that Lucas looks nice, would love to have that,
I like your videos, there's always a doosh somewhere waiting to try to ruin somebody's day and probably jealous cause they don't have a mill. Don't let them win, keep posting and helping me learn lol
Amen to that!
You spelled douche wrong... lol
I know this is a 4 yr old vid. but another good option at a great savings ran on AIR...
Harbor has a "Geared" 6" orbital sander and with 36/40 grit it is a Beast.
This is not like the standard "Palm Orbitals" this unit is kinda built like a side grinder or angle grinder, low RPM's but Torque'y. and not as much dust kicked up due to it's slower turn.
and its slow enough you can hold it flat and not gouge or have very bad scratches like holding the festool at an angle.
Great video.
Good job lumber going through the roof im buyng a sawmill then building a solar kiln
Thanks buddy
HELP ME MAKE THIS CHANNEL BETTER AND CONSIDER SUPPORTING ME ON PATREON!
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Get your Festool Ras Here
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I sell a lot of slabs . I like to sand and clean them up before I show them . Standing slabs upright also makes customers shopping easier . Good video as usual .
Thanks Jimmy!
Thanks this is good advice. Have a small Saw Mill in Manitoba Canada. We can cut 24”. Just started selling. We mostly have Burr Oak up here it’s quite beautiful.
I bet that is some nice timber! Thanks for watching!
One of the early ones I have seen. You are still knocking out of the park
love how you think of the customer and want to deliver your best! ive been a cabinet maker all my working career since 96. i'm watching to learn butt, i see something that's gonna cost ya. if ya mostly use the edge of your disk, your rounding the base to where it aint flat anymore. besides, you could probably surface real close to flat with that thing. i do want to start a little saw mill here soon. i apreciate you showing us what youve learned. don't stop
you are correct, everyone wants live edge slabs! Good video as always,
agreed, thanks for watching,
So basically a 4 1/2 " angle grinder with a sanding pad & disk. Milwaukee or DeWalt have long-lasting service in their tools also I just picked up a new.Jupiter pneumatic 7 in grinder/sander. I'm kind of partial to air tools.. I made my living using tools. A standard angle grinder will do just fine and the cost is a bunch lower. keep up the great work. !!!!!!
In the summer Ive sprayed the boards with bleach and it clears it up pretty good.
Just a light or heavy spray?
I took a 1 gallon insect sprayer and soaked it.I dont know if I would do it in cool weather though.It turns the wood kinda white in some cases.On cedar fences it works real good.Looks like that tool you have works pretty good!
👍
If you can afford it, or already own one, use a large fan to blow the dust away. I use one whenever I’m working with a table saw or really any saw outside. It seems like this would help your dust management while you’re sanding.
Great video as always. I used to use my RAS in my chair making but has been collecting dust under my bench for 5+ years
Thanks, how did it do compared to other tools for the seat? I might take this by Curtis Buchanan's shop for a test run by him sometime. If I can get him to put his adze away.
Out of the Woods it wasn’t as strong as an angle grinder with an aggressive wheel like Kutzall. The RAS works and is great for dust control but takes a lot longer for carving seats in hardwood.
You are a very considerate fellow and I enjoy your excellent videos. I own A woodmiser LT 40 hydraulic for my own use and appreciate learning from a man who does this for a living.
Thanks Jesse. I appreciate you watching
You might try taking that dust shield off and lay the sanding disc down flat. I think you will like the results.
wouldn't work, slabs have not been flattened yet,
Seven inch makita planer or even a four inch if you know haw to use it . Always run it at a slight angle so the outfeed table , or heel of the planer laps ont the previous pass . This keeps it from tipping.
I do the same thing but with a hand held belt sander. It don't leave any swirl marks on the slab try it I think you'll be impressed.
Tim Cupp Atkinson Ga
Ever considered using big orbital floor sander, and doing a 1' coverage or larger when sanding
tried that but this is so much faster, appreciate it,
Great video... nice to see your channel growing. Another thing you can do right off the mill is, after dusting off the slab, use a piece of heavy chalk to give it an inventory number, then wet it and snap a quick picture. You can still read the chalk through the stain, and you can show what it looks like underneath wetted out before it headed into the kiln.
Looks great TFP! BTW, I've always wondered why people hit dislike for most videos; why not just click out? Glad to see I'm not the only one wondering about it. Now to find your videos on building a kiln...
I enjoy watching how much care and thought you put into each log and your final results
we actually use a 7" polisher machine to do the sanding, the one they use for sanding and polishing surfboards... I do 36 or 40 grid and then 220 just for the feel
Nice video Check out a large drum sander to add to your tool box
Would be nice!!
You are a good man. You help us working people. Thanks.
thanks Edward,
I'm buying a mill today and hope in maine I can find a good contract too sell my product. I love your show keep up the good work bud. I miss Tennessee lol.
We use a 3"×21" belt sander with 36 grit ceramic belts that works pretty good. I can see how this tool could be handy on a lot of other projects though! Good video!
Thanks. Never tried the bells sander. I’m sure it gives a similar result. Thanks for watching!
You could number and take pictures of the slabs when you cut them and attach the picture to the slab after they dry.
Good idea, thanks!
I'd be using a old drum floor sander, it would sand it real fast but you really have to stay moving so it doesn't burn a groove in your slab.
Hey bro from a fellow wood worker...if you keep your sander flat it will also keep your slabs flatter and your going to wear out your hook and loop backer pad on your tool..try it out bud you'll see what I'm saying,plus your customers will be a lot happier!!
Yes I would have a hard time selling after it's been surfaced also. I love wood grain in all wood.
i never operated a sawmill..never used a chainsaw..but i love wood..i love our Land..and i really like hard working People who have a passion for what they do..that Sir, you have in spades1
Thanks. Appreciate it
You could also stamp num. and show cust. the vid. of the wood coming of the mill.
Thanks for the vid. We are looking to get out of the city and start a small business and this is a potential path to that. I can never find a video on where people get their raw logs to start with, if anyone could chime in. Thanks for the info, from Canada. Take care and be safe.
I spent 15 years running construction crews and about 13 years in retail management. I have had a mill for about 6 years. I've been running it for personal projects. I am thinking of transitioning to running for business and profit. I'm in western NC. Would love to see your set up and get advice on some things.
Nathan This is one of the best vids you have put out yet . Very uninformative all the right information , well done . Wood workers will get a lot out of it , you have excelled again . I wish I was there to see it all happening , the vid quality is improving all the time , and the content will have a lot to give for many years to come ..
Thanks Bob, I appreciate that comment, doing my best up here, Thanks for watching,
Good things to think about. Presentation says a lot. Putting your best foot forward is always a wise choice. Thanks for the video.
Great information Nathan, much better to see the cleaned up side! 🇬🇧🇬🇧
👍thanks buddy. Appreciate you watching
That's beautiful wood... as a finisher I can see the potential of a properly finished product just by seeing the grain of the wood. Although that's not my preferred method to make the grain pop, you can always refer to the old saying "there's more than one way to skin a cat". Plus that festool looks like it's fun to use. Good job.
The Festool is a beast! Leaves a nice finish in the wood. Thanks for watching
have you thought about a cheap belt sander?
Tried that this week. Not as fast or as easy to do. Thanks for watching!
thanks a lot for this video. I am buying a band saw preliminary to build a barn on the farm. but I am thinking about maybe building some mini barns and i was thinking about some slab benches. I wish I had access to some nicer trees for the slabs. ll be watching more of your material thanks again
good deal, thanks for watching,
Always good information, it’s a plus when you learn how to add value
I do not own a kiln so forgive me if this is a dumb question. Would it alleviate the stain problem any if the boards were loaded with a slight side to side angle so the water run off? Or is it not caused by standing water slowly evaporating off the face?
Wow! Those slabs are beautiful!
Thanks!
Well I cut a lot of cootwood in alaska and birch too but the cottonwood was the one that liked to curl or stain. I started doing what an old timer next to me did. He would saw and then take it down to the lake behind us and throw it in for about two or three days. I asked him why and he said that the natural oil in the wood would soak out and then when he dried it, it didn't take as long and it wasn't curled or stained!! Oh if you like that sander, then try the big belt one and you will be amazed at how much leveler and no scratches and stuff. Way further ahead to use the belt instead of circular sander!! Just saying. It is the oil in walnut that makes those stains and it comes to the surface when drying
thanks for watching but I am not looking for a finished surface, or to get it level, people who buy my slabs run them through a planer, this is just used to show them what the potential is,
Couldn't agree more about people being so anxious to hit the dislike button. LOL. I couldn't afford a Festool but I did happen to order relatively the same tool made by Bosch yesterday. It is the 1250 DEVS. I am a painting contractor and will be using it to refinish wood floors and prep cabinets for painting as well as using it on the heavy-duty mode for Wood home Exteriors.
I looked at that Bosch also, looks like a very similar tool. hope it does the job for you, thanks for watching!
Beautiful. How much would a slab like these sell for? I have no idea...
about $450
WOW brother that tool sure does work fast at removing the wood and the stains!! Any tips you want to share with the channel I know there are quite a few folks that will benefit from them. Cant wait for the next video!
Thanks Tey. Appreciate the feedback.
I have seen you pour water from a gallon jug onto your fresh cut slabs to show off the grain. Do you think any of the dried wood stains are a result of the minerals in the water? Just curious.
Could be. Good thought
Look for a used floor sander! you will save lots of time and have a more consistent job.
A regular grinder works fine with the proper attachment for paper or a flap disk.
For tiny stuff I have a rotozip with the cutting/sanding attachment takes from memory 2.5" cutting wheel or same round of paper.
Other then that drum sanders pretty easy to build.
good options, thanks,
Got some big oak slabs 1 1/2 and 2 inches i will try cleaning up thank you.
good deal!
You did a very good job explaining this out you did a very good presentation really like the way those boards turned out awesome job
thank you, I appreciate the feedback, thanks for watching!
Nice...thank you for the heads up.
Anytime. Thanks for watching
Very glad I watched the video! Didn't know about the tool you used until now! Thanks
Good deal. Thanks for watching
i heard some people seal the ends with paint so they don't buckle and split...did you ever try that?
nice video, thanks for sharing,
thank for watching,
Quite the difference in the appearance of the slab after it's been sanded. I'm sure running a standard handheld belt sander over it with a very coarse grit belt would get a similar result just as fast.
I use my belt sander with a fine grit belt and move it in direction of the wood grain.
Great video as usual. How do you all, anyone, set prices for hardwood and slabs? Is it market driven or based on the desirability of a piece of lumber (figure, color, ect)?
For me totally by the market and what people on your area will pay. Lots of research
How much lighter in weight is that slab after being kiln dried? Great sander .....
I would say about half of its weight green was water, significantly lighter after drying,
Thanks for watching!
That is very cool. I have just got into it. I bought a Norwood LM29 and I'm getting ready to do some cedar lined closets in my house. Will it be better to shiplap or just but the edges.
Can you just mill it thicker and take a slice off when its dry?
That certainly makes a huge difference in seeing the grain and color. It would be unwise to show to a customer without cleaning them up first. Good video. Thanks.
Thanks Craig, I appreciate the feedback, have a great evening,
the staining is from the drying process. the faster the moisture is removed the humidity in the kiln goes up just like in bathroom taking a shower. you get vapor buildup on the boards above each each other and then they form droplets that drop back on the board causing the stain. thats why I love my solar kiln to start the drying they heat during the day and allow the boards to cool in the night . it reduces the moisture buildup and reduces warping to. but does extend the drying time some. it does matter if you have a dehumidiferr in the kiln. the moisture builds up so fast and the dehumidifier cant keep up to frmove it fast enough.
Very nice tip. And nice of you to share it. You know it's the little things that can differentiate you from your competition. Gotta do the extras that nobody else wants to do. Great video
Thanks I appreciate it, thank you for the feedback,
Pratts Greenhouse agree
Might look at wide sanders.
Nice work. I woukd really like to see what a good heavy duty belt sander woukd fo. I think it would be much faster on flats. For dipped surfaces maybe not.
What is the RPM that the sander is running at? and why are you tipping it and only sanding with just the one edge of the sander instead of keeping it flat and using the whole sanding disc? How well is the hook and loop standing up to use? the way you are holding it tipped to one side and only sanding with the edge of the disc i would imagine the disc wearing out fast on that edge and wearing thru and taking out the hook and loop part that is on the sander? do they have some way of replacing it when it wears out. I make my own discs, sanding pads and sanding discs which i just use on my angle grinders. the hook and loop attachment method is just not practicable tho and wears out in no time so ive resorted to just using spray adhesive but you have to find angle grinders that run at a lower RPM or they just throw the discs, my 7-9" angle grinder with a fresh 36grit sanding disc will remove some serious product, it throws quite the rooster tail of dust
Do you run all of your slabs through the kiln? Another in a long line of great videos!
100% agree with everything you just said! I do this with a normal angle grinder and sending pad, does a perfect job. The longer the strokes are are the better the finish, and I try not to pause the pad on the wood, because it will leave divots on the surface! I just lift away the end of the stroke and back while the tool is moving.
Great video
Cheers
Thanks. Looks like an angle grinder would have been the cheaper route to go here. I will have to try that one day. Thanks for watching
Szilard Pinter agree
It's one of Festool's cheapest sanders though certainly more $$ than an angle grinder. If you don't use the dust collection capability it may not make sense. Have you tried putting something like an Oneida Dust Deputy cyclone ahead of your dust extractor? I mounted one on top of my CT-26 (they're made to fit perfectly) and it's effective enough for indoor use with my Festool sanders, routers, jigsaw, and tracksaw. Or possibly use a hand-held power planer? I've cleaned up lots of weathered reclaimed wood that way.
Szilard Pinter great advise. Normal grinders run at 10000 rpm. I’m sure the one shown runs less than 5000. Definitely going to give it a whirl. ( probably a swirl too)
A wire cup brush on the angle grinder will do the same thing and never wear out. I just keep a block plane in my pocket and show them how quickly the staining comes off.
Have you thought about drying your cuts on edge, won't have as much to clean later and dry a little faster naturally.
I am not familiar with that practice, have you had success with it?
only brought it up because it was pointed out to me by someone in this area that just recently retired and said I was doing it all wrong, I'm trying it on this fresh batch to see how well it works. different wood but same principle he said... I'm drying black cherry atm. finally got to cut some, now waiting on a few parts to bring my woodmizer up to par for the other cuttings I need to do. can't wait to see how this drying works compared to the way I was taught.
I'm new here , i love the way you presented it, and shown the different ways to start working the wood.
Thanks Ken appreciate you watching
hi great video with usefull advice which is rare these days ! i just wonder if you could jet wash the surface clean it might be worth a try i dont know just a thought
Maybe the moisture in the log is stained by the color of the wood and shows on the surface when it seeps out in the kiln. Idk what that is
belt sander works well
agreed
Maybe you said and I missed it, but what grit are you using?
36.
Thanks Cody.
They cleaned up real nice!!!! Thanks for sharing!!!
Yes they did. Thanks for watching
Your videos are awesome and informative I thank you very much you're the reason I bought my mill
Great to hear!
Good tool for the job.
I think so, just a little hard on the wallet,
Thanks for watching!
Great info thanks what grit sand paper
Don't worry about the 4 or 5. Enjoy your videos!
Thanks buddy. Appreciate it
Did you let it air dry for at least a year before you put it in the kiln?
usually close to that time period,
Wish I had the ability to do this. I don't see anything to dis like. Great looking wood.
Thanks Rob! Have a good rest of your week
Sir, is 8/4 thickness the profitable thickness for slabs? Thank you for your time.
Yes in my market
Than you sir.
Them stains happen in part to the tree or log trying to safe it self so just like when a tree gets bad spot and the tree grows around it we have all seen it so same with the slabs the wood try’s to safe the heart of the board where the heart is stronger the stains will show more
Good info, thanks for sharing,
Some people just want everybody to be as sad and mean as they are. Great insight and video! It looks like some sort of water stains. I think it's because of the rate at which the water in the wood comes to the surface to be evaporated off. Are there any on the top slabs in the stacks or just on the lower slabs? I know there can't be so much moisture that it's dripping on the lower pieces.
Is is always on every slab no matter the placement,
Do you ever have any classes? I'm thinking about getting into this business.
Maybe soon on that. Thanks for watching 👍
Out of the Woods Sounds good. Have a great day!