Beautiful. I have a formal room that we do not use. I do not want to fully commit to a permanent wall as later I may decide to open all the walls. But this is good to close one of the openings. Love!
I'm really interested in creating walls like this for an apartment. How do I secure the walls once they're up so they dont fall over. Bracket to existing dry wall?
Nice, used this to create a separate workshop in the garage. This way means I still have a usuable section of the garage for when I go to sell the house in the future. Most importantly this costs less than $100.
this would make a nice divider wall for my room to create a makeshift gaming/media room in my room without having it be a permanent wall in the rental I live in.
needed this info for creating a market show booth--thx--what are the holes in the studs for? They don't line up like electrical access. Obviously done after creating the studs so what purpose?
Great video. I am making temporary walls to section off a very large room to hide furniture. I buy furniture at auctions to refurbish and I don’t want them to be visible in my studio.
Never never never use a chop saw this way. Never cross over with your right hand to chop while holding the wood with your left hand on the right side of the saw. I have seen someone cut into their forearm, should edit out the clip out of your video.
Hi, thanks for watching. It depends on your environment what approach is best for you. In my case, I drilled into the concrete floor and anchored the bottom. I left the top unconnected to the ceiling, but I had perpendicular walls which gave it more stability. I could also screw into the existing walls where they butted together. For added stiffness, I also used additional pieces across the seams along the top of the panels to prevent the individual panels from shifting. Hope that helps!
You should update this build but in sead of using studs you should use same particular wood ribed to form ribbong making a diy a hollow core panel Or rip Sytroform ribs replacing the stubs
Thanks for watching and good question. It would really depend on your need and application, as well as ceiling height. In my case, I anchored each section to the floor using concrete screws. To stabilize the top I used plywood strips as a top plate, with the joints in different places than the space between panels so it would create rigidity. I didn’t want to screw the panels to the drop ceiling, but I did add sections to fill the remaining gap as you can see in the video. It’s very sturdy and strong.
So, what do you do if you don't want to screw it into the floor and ruin hardwood floors? Would it be secure enough if I'm just fastening to one side of the wall and ceiling, but not attached to floor?
I need to make a temporary wall with a door. Im having a really hard time figuring out how to do this without drilling it to the floor and to a wall made up of 15’ window! Please help!
Thanks for watching. I did use screws to connect to the existing walls. And I used concrete anchors into the floor as well. Depending on your circumstances you might not have to, but that’s what we did.
You may want to confirm in your jurisdiction, but because they are classed as “temporary walls”, I did not need a building permit for them, or to meet the electrical code for them either, as far as receptacle spacing, minimum number of outlets, etc.
Thanks for sharing. I love this idea and will be making several panels. The panel looks sturdy enough with just one face, is hardboard on both sides for aesthetics or also strength?
It does both. If you don’t need both sides to be covered, the panels are still pretty sturdy. They are little less prone to twisting if you cover them on both sides. Not so much the full panel twisting, but the individual studs.
Thanks for watching! That’s a good question and you should probably check with your municipality to see their rules. In my town they are considered temporary walls, and do not require a permit, or the usual requirements for electrical outlets or plumbing.
I'm looking to this this exact thing for a museum installment but I can't drill holes into anything and the walls have to be free standing. Any ideas as to how to get them to stand strong without them falling over? So far I was thinking of simple "triangle feet" whose bases would be perpendicular to the wall. But I'm afraid ppl will trip over those bases. Thoughts?
If you can do any perpendicular walls it makes a huge difference to the stability. Something heavy but wide, like a steel plate that they all sit on could help as well. If there are any rafters or ceiling attachments you could use fine steel cable to bring some support as well.
@@heard3879thank you so much for your response? Do you have any suggestions on how to make the wall freestanding if the wall is not the height of the ceiling for pressure?
Thanks for watching! Each 4x8’ section cost about $45 CAD with the materials we used. Lumber prices have been fluctuating wildly lately, but that’s what we paid. We built about 20 of those sections.
Thanks for watching! I said staple gun because I used a crown stapler, not a brad nailer. A nailer without a head, like a brad nail, would not hold the hardboard on very well. But crown staples do a pretty good job. You could also use a nails that have a larger head, and I’ve also used screws and washers when I want the panelling to be removable.
It really depends. Pricing has been all over the place. One sheet of plywood will make 2 1/2 panels, then you need a sheet of something (I used 1/8” hardboard) to cover 1 or both sides. That should help you price it out. Currently where I live it’s $55 for the plywood and $12 for each sheet of hardboard, making each panel about $46 Canadian.
I wish so badly I could figure out a way to enclose my living room in a way that’s easily removable to just put the sections in the back area. Because it costs way too much to cool the whole house when it’s just me here. The upstairs is open to the downstairs. And the whole main floor is open floor space except the bathroom. Two bedrooms are finished attic. Insanely hot during summer. So I sleep in back area of main floor during summer. Then I don’t have a good place to work out. Have a basement but no windows big enough for AC. And is a gross basement. Walls have some cracking and surely has mold spores in air and who knows what else. House is a mess in a number of ways. Anyone want to give me like $80,000 to fix the roof, basement, porch, garage and few other things? Actually probably more like $120,000. Being poor sucks
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Beautiful. I have a formal room that we do not use. I do not want to fully commit to a permanent wall as later I may decide to open all the walls. But this is good to close one of the openings. Love!
Thanks for watching! Glad it’s helpful:)
Same here! I have a loft upstairs. Would like to close it in for an extra bedroom. I like this idea, because I don’t want to do anything permanent
You just gave the easiest and quickest demo on how to rip wood without a table saw. Your form is genius. Thanks!
This what I'm looking for. I need to make a temporary divider on my room this weekend. Thank you!
How do you attach this to the floor without drilling it. I want to build a temporary wall and Im onlyvrenting the place
I've heard of using extra strength Velcro on the floor and securing it vertically into a stud as an option for temporary walls.
I am considering to make an additional bedroom from the ample living room. I would put in 1/2" plywood and add insulation/soundboard.
I'm really interested in creating walls like this for an apartment. How do I secure the walls once they're up so they dont fall over. Bracket to existing dry wall?
Wondering the same thing!
Me too... Anything
I am not a carpenter but I would use decorative weights like brick etc or removable brackets
Use heavy duty double sided tape that's rated for hanging heavy pictures.
I've heard of using extra strength Velcro on the floor (if it's a hard floor) and securing it vertically into a stud as an option for temporary walls.
Nice, used this to create a separate workshop in the garage. This way means I still have a usuable section of the garage for when I go to sell the house in the future. Most importantly this costs less than $100.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Please share how you did that I am doing the same thing.
This is brilliant thank you it’s exactly what I needed
Thank you 🙏 Nicely done 😊
Thanks for this video! I'm going to create a temporary wall/door for a basement apartment.
This was absolutely amazing, Thanks soooooo soooooo much.... Your the man!!!!
Once you have the walls built, how do you secure them to the tile floor?
Missed the whole “temporary” part, didn’t you?
do you think this would work to fake a finished basement for an office area/ filming/ photo area?
this would make a nice divider wall for my room to create a makeshift gaming/media room in my room without having it be a permanent wall in the rental I live in.
I was looking for an answer to build a false wall for my recessed electric fireplace
Love this video, would love to know how much the cost would be for a single wall segment. Thinking of building a cheap temporary room in the garage.
Thank you! I have a den and i don't want to make walls but need to create a temporary guest room, that looks good because is near the living room.
needed this info for creating a market show booth--thx--what are the holes in the studs for? They don't line up like electrical access. Obviously done after creating the studs so what purpose?
I'm looking to build a temporary wall in a finished basement, any ideas on how to secure a wall to a finished ceiling, floor or other finished walls?
Exactly what I was looking for
I may actually use this concept to build a temporary shed/ building in my back yard.
Can I build it in my mobile home? I want to separate the dining room fron the living room
Great video. I am making temporary walls to section off a very large room to hide furniture. I buy furniture at auctions to refurbish and I don’t want them to be visible in my studio.
Thanks for watching. Glad it was helpful.
Heck yea. Nice idea. Thanks man
Thank you!
Hey thank you that was a really useful way to build and kinds inexpensive
Never never never use a chop saw this way. Never cross over with your right hand to chop while holding the wood with your left hand on the right side of the saw. I have seen someone cut into their forearm, should edit out the clip out of your video.
I Just Seen It Sheesh A Little Too Close For Comfort 😳
He's using Ryobi...what did you expect 😅
Zzzzzzzzz
Thanks for your video. How did you tie the wall segments to ceiling and floor, or did I miss that? Thanks.
Hi, thanks for watching. It depends on your environment what approach is best for you. In my case, I drilled into the concrete floor and anchored the bottom. I left the top unconnected to the ceiling, but I had perpendicular walls which gave it more stability. I could also screw into the existing walls where they butted together. For added stiffness, I also used additional pieces across the seams along the top of the panels to prevent the individual panels from shifting. Hope that helps!
Thanks
You should update this build but in sead of using studs you should use same particular wood ribed to form ribbong making a diy a hollow core panel
Or rip Sytroform ribs replacing the stubs
How do you temporarily stabilize these against the floor/ceiling?
Thanks for watching and good question. It would really depend on your need and application, as well as ceiling height. In my case, I anchored each section to the floor using concrete screws. To stabilize the top I used plywood strips as a top plate, with the joints in different places than the space between panels so it would create rigidity. I didn’t want to screw the panels to the drop ceiling, but I did add sections to fill the remaining gap as you can see in the video. It’s very sturdy and strong.
So, what do you do if you don't want to screw it into the floor and ruin hardwood floors? Would it be secure enough if I'm just fastening to one side of the wall and ceiling, but not attached to floor?
@@joycesegers5578 i have the exact same question and I’m searching for an option that would not require damaging the flooring
I need to make a temporary wall with a door. Im having a really hard time figuring out how to do this without drilling it to the floor and to a wall made up of 15’ window! Please help!
Did you anchor the panels to existing walls or floor? And what did you use ?
Thanks for watching. I did use screws to connect to the existing walls. And I used concrete anchors into the floor as well. Depending on your circumstances you might not have to, but that’s what we did.
Congratulations on starting an escape room - it's such a fun business!
Thanks, it really is a lot of fun!
Do you need a building permit for this?
You may want to confirm in your jurisdiction, but because they are classed as “temporary walls”, I did not need a building permit for them, or to meet the electrical code for them either, as far as receptacle spacing, minimum number of outlets, etc.
how come you did not put insulation? can you put in mass loaded vinyl inside?
How do you use this on carpet without falling over
Thanks for sharing. I love this idea and will be making several panels. The panel looks sturdy enough with just one face, is hardboard on both sides for aesthetics or also strength?
It does both. If you don’t need both sides to be covered, the panels are still pretty sturdy. They are little less prone to twisting if you cover them on both sides. Not so much the full panel twisting, but the individual studs.
Do we need city permit to install partition wall ?
Thanks for watching! That’s a good question and you should probably check with your municipality to see their rules. In my town they are considered temporary walls, and do not require a permit, or the usual requirements for electrical outlets or plumbing.
Are theses sound proof? Could they be used for classrooms?
They can be sound proof if you use sound proofing insulation. Mine are not, but there are products out there that do it, and it’s easy to handle.
I'm looking to this this exact thing for a museum installment but I can't drill holes into anything and the walls have to be free standing. Any ideas as to how to get them to stand strong without them falling over? So far I was thinking of simple "triangle feet" whose bases would be perpendicular to the wall. But I'm afraid ppl will trip over those bases. Thoughts?
If you can do any perpendicular walls it makes a huge difference to the stability. Something heavy but wide, like a steel plate that they all sit on could help as well. If there are any rafters or ceiling attachments you could use fine steel cable to bring some support as well.
How much to the individual panels weigh? Can one person move them?
That’s a good question. I’ve not weighed them, but I’d guess about 40lbs. I can easily move them around.
How did you attach to the metal ceiling tiles
Thank you, you just saved me a good £200...ta!
Glad it could be helpful! Thanks for watching.
I love this video but I'm equally angry with the imperial system. Haha. Thanks for the vid tho!
How do you keep them from falling?
They are about 3 inches thick and jammed between his floor and ceiling in the pictures, so I think they are just balanced like that.
@@heard3879thank you so much for your response? Do you have any suggestions on how to make the wall freestanding if the wall is not the height of the ceiling for pressure?
@@thanksmaddytv815 I think it would be good to put some kind of feet sticking out from the sides.
I always wondered what Jeff Ross did between roasts.
Simply genius!
Thanks for watching!
Did you fasten the walls to the floor?
I did, but you could avoid doing that by building feet for the panels. Just depends on needs. Thanks for watching!
Great video, how much did the wall end up costing
Thanks for watching! Each 4x8’ section cost about $45 CAD with the materials we used. Lumber prices have been fluctuating wildly lately, but that’s what we paid. We built about 20 of those sections.
You said staple gun a lot but you mean nail gun right?
Thanks for watching! I said staple gun because I used a crown stapler, not a brad nailer. A nailer without a head, like a brad nail, would not hold the hardboard on very well. But crown staples do a pretty good job. You could also use a nails that have a larger head, and I’ve also used screws and washers when I want the panelling to be removable.
How much?
It really depends. Pricing has been all over the place. One sheet of plywood will make 2 1/2 panels, then you need a sheet of something (I used 1/8” hardboard) to cover 1 or both sides. That should help you price it out. Currently where I live it’s $55 for the plywood and $12 for each sheet of hardboard, making each panel about $46 Canadian.
🎉🎉
I wish so badly I could figure out a way to enclose my living room in a way that’s easily removable to just put the sections in the back area. Because it costs way too much to cool the whole house when it’s just me here. The upstairs is open to the downstairs. And the whole main floor is open floor space except the bathroom. Two bedrooms are finished attic. Insanely hot during summer. So I sleep in back area of main floor during summer. Then I don’t have a good place to work out. Have a basement but no windows big enough for AC. And is a gross basement. Walls have some cracking and surely has mold spores in air and who knows what else. House is a mess in a number of ways. Anyone want to give me like $80,000 to fix the roof, basement, porch, garage and few other things? Actually probably more like $120,000. Being poor sucks
Holy crap man, dont cut your arm off 3:42
Split my grow room so I can wash hash
I need temp 4 foot wall to divide a childcare space…
Looks complicated
It’s really not bad, especially if you have a few to make and get a good workflow going.
Shtrong? ...