Followed your advice from last years video, but opted for Whiteline front one mostly because of anti dive shim, also have Verkline rear bushings. Love the transformation (camber bolts F&R, DNA top mounts on stock dampers and springs).
I went this way last year and I can attest that this modification totally changes the behavior and practically no affects in daily driving, just a small NVH, thanks Adriano!!!
I have seen a video featuring all the Verkline parts in polish, thankfully subtitled. Great craftsmanship. And I've also seen and painfully want the new, improved, GR Yaris.
@@PIRASMotorsport Yes, I understand that. I have a question for you. In that particular video, the Verkline representative particularly mentioned that the first part you should replace is the gearbox torque mount. Why is that?
Thanks and very informative as always. I have the same geo settings as you advise and is the perfect setup. Only issue I find is my front camber bolts move under hard driving and need constant correction!
AJ great content. have you seen the Gazoo Racing Underbrace set, which includes rear trailing arms? Do you consider this equivalent to Verkline and DNA?
Actually I haven’t seen that yet in detail, do you have detailed pictures? Apart from the strut bars that are needed, we haven’t seen a great need for under-chassis bracing till now, even with Wiborg Engineering on the cars running 265’s
Hi Adriano. Will the Verkline full wish bone kit be a good solution for the GR suspension problem or will you recommend another solution? By the way, I have the KWV4 Clubsport coil overs but all the other suspension parts are oem. Please let me know because I am about to buy the Verkline full wish bone kit plus the Verkline billet tirque mount. Best regards, Jeppe.
Hello Jeppe, Talking of the front end, I just made another video about the Wiborg Engineering front arm, that fixes the problem just changing the arm. Verkline offering is super good BUT, you will need to change both front arms and front wheel hubs to achieve the same/similar result of correcting camber gain and bump steer
Great video, Adriano! Starting with a mention of eliminating understeer is very promising. Apart from the part you mention, the toe settings and the front-rear camber difference that you mention, > what front camber and > what rear camber settings do you use, please? Also, have you added any caster? If yes, > what is your caster setting, please, and did you achieve it only through the Powerflex front lower arm bushing or any other parts (eg top mounts)? Finally, > for a fast-road car (no track) do you still recommend 1mm toe out front each side or is that too much, causing premature tyre wear during normal driving?
Hello Stefs, thankyou for following and for your questions! In regards to alignment, for street I like around Front 2* or 2,5* camber, and the same or 0.25* less at the rear. Front Toe is 1mm open for axle, not wheel Rear Toe is about 0, you can open a bit for track, depending on what bushings and coilover setup. With stock front arms, powerflex black rear bushing helps to earn about 0.5* caster, for a total value of about 5*. Soon a new video will come out with installation of new, tubular front arms that also correct the car’s geometry and front camber loss when damping or lowering GR’s. Waiting on the package!
I wonder how the new 24 version will differ as regards modifications. They have tweaked the shock mounts , the shocks, and the anti roll bars. In one one or two videos there was mention of brake upgrades, but I'm not sure about this. Maybe braided lines?
I’m digging it, but it is very hard to get verified information. Will talk to a Japanese engineer friend and hopefully get all the answers to record a video in the weekend! Cheers mate
Thankyou Richard! Given that the car squats so much, the Eibach springs are an option only if you will drive on very flat surfaces, because you will be always in your rear bump stops!
2990 euro x 2 = ~6k euro doesn't sound to me as a "cheap" 😄 For front only 1 change, fine. But what would you suggest for rear as absolute must have or a 1st buy so that I'll feel the difference?
okay. Watched once again. I need front and rear bushings as the "cheap" modification and that's it. If I got you correct. Total ~1k euro. That's still sounds not cheap to me if you think about it as small piece of metal with rubber for 230 euros per piece🙂
Hi there, thank you for following! Yes, absolutely: Cusco parts are very good quality, many years of experience with them. My mistake I forgot to mention them!
Followed your advice from last years video, but opted for Whiteline front one mostly because of anti dive shim, also have Verkline rear bushings. Love the transformation (camber bolts F&R, DNA top mounts on stock dampers and springs).
I’m so happy of you feedback, and chuffed to help!
I went this way last year and I can attest that this modification totally changes the behavior and practically no affects in daily driving, just a small NVH, thanks Adriano!!!
Thankyou for the precious feedback Jorge!
I have seen a video featuring all the Verkline parts in polish, thankfully subtitled. Great craftsmanship. And I've also seen and painfully want the new, improved, GR Yaris.
I’m not sure it is the way, with the new one, unless you don’t have the old one and haven’t spent money on improving it mate!
@@PIRASMotorsport Yes, I understand that. I have a question for you. In that particular video, the Verkline representative particularly mentioned that the first part you should replace is the gearbox torque mount. Why is that?
Because it stops the longitudinal movement of the engine and therefore eliminates wheel hop and issues with gear shifting. I agree 👌
@@PIRASMotorsport Thank you for this.
Great information! Love the content and keep it up!
Thanks! Will do mate!
Grande Adriano! Era proprio il video di cui avevo bisogno 😌
Grazie, sono felice!!
Thanks and very informative as always. I have the same geo settings as you advise and is the perfect setup.
Only issue I find is my front camber bolts move under hard driving and need constant correction!
Yes, I understand You! Toyota makes some smaller diameter bots to adjust camber, they work quite well and move less than eccentric ones
AJ great content. have you seen the Gazoo Racing Underbrace set, which includes rear trailing arms? Do you consider this equivalent to Verkline and DNA?
Actually I haven’t seen that yet in detail, do you have detailed pictures? Apart from the strut bars that are needed, we haven’t seen a great need for under-chassis bracing till now, even with Wiborg Engineering on the cars running 265’s
Hi Adriano.
Will the Verkline full wish bone kit be a good solution for the GR suspension problem or will you recommend another solution?
By the way, I have the KWV4 Clubsport coil overs but all the other suspension parts are oem.
Please let me know because I am about to buy the Verkline full wish bone kit plus the Verkline billet tirque mount.
Best regards,
Jeppe.
Hello Jeppe,
Talking of the front end, I just made another video about the Wiborg Engineering front arm, that fixes the problem just changing the arm. Verkline offering is super good BUT, you will need to change both front arms and front wheel hubs to achieve the same/similar result of correcting camber gain and bump steer
@@PIRASMotorsport Ok, Thank you Adriano 🙂
What will you recommendation then be????
How should I optimize the suspension and the handling of my GR???
I recommend the Wiborg front arm kit, with Verkline rear Camber and Toe arms
Ok but how does the Verkline rear camber look like, I know the Verkline toe arm but not the rear camber.
It is the one that loos a bit like a horse shoe
Great video, Adriano! Starting with a mention of eliminating understeer is very promising. Apart from the part you mention, the toe settings and the front-rear camber difference that you mention,
> what front camber and
> what rear camber settings do you use, please? Also, have you added any caster? If yes,
> what is your caster setting, please, and
did you achieve it only through the Powerflex front lower arm bushing or any other parts (eg top mounts)? Finally,
> for a fast-road car (no track) do you still recommend 1mm toe out front each side or is that too much, causing premature tyre wear during normal driving?
Hello Stefs, thankyou for following and for your questions!
In regards to alignment, for street I like around Front 2* or 2,5* camber, and the same or 0.25* less at the rear.
Front Toe is 1mm open for axle, not wheel
Rear Toe is about 0, you can open a bit for track, depending on what bushings and coilover setup.
With stock front arms, powerflex black rear bushing helps to earn about 0.5* caster, for a total value of about 5*.
Soon a new video will come out with installation of new, tubular front arms that also correct the car’s geometry and front camber loss when damping or lowering GR’s. Waiting on the package!
I wonder how the new 24 version will differ as regards modifications. They have tweaked the shock mounts , the shocks, and the anti roll bars. In one one or two videos there was mention of brake upgrades, but I'm not sure about this. Maybe braided lines?
I’m digging it, but it is very hard to get verified information. Will talk to a Japanese engineer friend and hopefully get all the answers to record a video in the weekend! Cheers mate
Hi Adriano, do you mind making a video discussing your thoughts on the facelift?
Of course mate, I will record it tomorrow!
Another great clip Adriano! How do you feel about adding Eibach springs, they give a nice drop of 25mm and seem to be working well?
Thankyou Richard! Given that the car squats so much, the Eibach springs are an option only if you will drive on very flat surfaces, because you will be always in your rear bump stops!
@@PIRASMotorsport thank you, i.e. means for me they are no option, even though I have to admit it looks awesome at 25mm lower....
@richardmueller6322 yes mate, sometimes less is more when speed is the goal!
Good content👍
Thankyou mate!
Great real content. Could you invest in a 40€ microphone with a clip for your shirt? Sometimes it’s a bit hard to hear you.
You are right and its done already, will see in the videos from next week!
Hi Cousin hope ur doing well
Hi Cousin, all well here, a big hug!! 🤗
2990 euro x 2 = ~6k euro doesn't sound to me as a "cheap" 😄 For front only 1 change, fine. But what would you suggest for rear as absolute must have or a 1st buy so that I'll feel the difference?
okay. Watched once again. I need front and rear bushings as the "cheap" modification and that's it. If I got you correct. Total ~1k euro. That's still sounds not cheap to me if you think about it as small piece of metal with rubber for 230 euros per piece🙂
Yes, the main reason for prices, apart from inflation, is that volumes of GR’s are still very low opposed to VW/Ag cars, or Sti’s or Evo’s
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
May I ask, I would like to use the blue Cusco Parts for the rear. What is your opinion on Cusco parts? Thanks
Hi there, thank you for following!
Yes, absolutely: Cusco parts are very good quality, many years of experience with them. My mistake I forgot to mention them!
Can you travel in time
😂😂😂 depends on the suspension setup!