The handle has come off. It may be on the floor near the tank. If not, the valve is spring loaded. The center shaft can be lifted with a pair of pliers then a vice grip or small clamp clamped around the shaft. Hope this helps. Let me know. GFM
Sounds like a good idea to me. It will bleed faster so you need to be there with a wrench to get it closed quickly. I would also bleed the outlet to be sure you get all the air out. Wish I would have thought about that. GFM
My friend I already feel I owe you a few steak dinners but I have a question. My bleeder screw with new gasket is leaking/weeping. Within 10 minutes after being wiped dry there is a slick pooling up. Static with the unit turned off. It is the type that screws into the top center of the main through filter hold down bolt. It is a slotted/blade head and I've tightened it in stages to try and stop the leak. It is now very tight. Any further and I may break the screw and turn a small issue into a big problem. Should I try another new gasket... Double up the gaskets.... Rubber o-ring... Replace the screw with a hex/cap screw, stainless maybe would be stronger? The screw that's in there now appears to be a 'tool pail replacement'. Ideas? Either way thanks for all the helpful videos, Mike.
Where is the approved place to take a vacuum reading with a Tigerloop in the single pipe system? Still at the pump or between the filter and the Tigerloop? Does the air vent in the loop foul up the vacuum reading downstream to the pump? Thanks. Good videos. Doug
I see 2 replacement filter types compatible with the General 1A-25a filter canister. The felt 1A-30 and a white Micro-Flow type. The newer white one seems to filter a lot more junk than the felt one and they cost about the same... Which one do you prefer and why ? Great video thanks.
I checked the whole lenght of my mobile home. Theres no oil filter or the thing u showed first. Would it be hard to install one and do u have a video on that?
Ever figure that out?? I’m 3 months old in living here.. I don’t think there is a filter.. maybe under house, but I didn’t notice. My fan keeps blowing after it shuts off.. don’t know what’s going on. At least it’s not the burner always going..
Please Help!!! I have to change my oil tank filter however there is no knob or handle to shut off the oil valve. How can I shut off the valve without having this???? I am in desperate need!
my can is leaking, i have changed the gasket. it started leaking again about a week later..the can is on a slight angle. the leak is small and coming out of the side that the can is tilted towards..Could the can being tilted play a part in it leaking?
Sounds like fun. I have done it by pulling a vacuum on the tank with, believe it or not, my vacuum pump. This is not easy. If there is a oil gauge, you may have to remove it and put in a plug. DO NOT pull a deep vacuum. About 10" or even maybe 5" will easily do it. Remove the filter, pull a vacuum on the top, open the fireomatic as you are vacuuming to see when it will not leak. The fittings on the top of the tank have tendency to leak, so it may be tough to get it to hold vacuum. Or, you could remove the valve and plug it with your thumb while you try to screw on a new one and hope. Let me know how you do. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Well, I've kept this old oil furnace running for about 3 seasons so far, making repairs MANY times using info from your very helpful videos and advice - now I'm stumped - I can't get it to come on at all - hitting the rest button got it to start up but would quit after 30 secs or so. Now it does not work at all (isn't "popped out"). I was having oil mist in the chamber AND (get this) spark also but wouldn't ignite. Even tried lighting the oil mist filled chamber with a electric match stuck into the access port and it STILL wouldn't light! WT_ is going on?
Further - put a new nozzle in a couple days ago - also right now have the transformer tilted out so I can see the burner assembly. Have attached jumper leads to the burner electrode "paddles" so I can see into the chamber to check for spark but now I can't use the reset button to try getting anything going. No, I don't have a filter on the oil supply line but do tap off the oil from an upper level in the fuel supply tank so any "debris" is settled below that. How do I "reset" the reset button or what does it being inoperable indicate?
@@grayfurnaceman blaster cabinet using glass beads makes these canisters like new. Paint with high temp paint and Wow!... looks like a brand new unit. Forget the carb and brake cleaner for carbonized crud and rust.
Right Give It A Tap. That's because Most of These Valves Don't Fully Close. So In A Fire And When The Inner Part Of The Knob Melts More The Likely The Valve Will Be At Least Partly OPEN. NOT GOOD
Thanks for the detailed info on the shut-off valve. A great refresher.
Excellent teaching points Bob. Thanks.
The handle has come off. It may be on the floor near the tank. If not, the valve is spring loaded. The center shaft can be lifted with a pair of pliers then a vice grip or small clamp clamped around the shaft. Hope this helps. Let me know.
GFM
Sounds like a good idea to me. It will bleed faster so you need to be there with a wrench to get it closed quickly. I would also bleed the outlet to be sure you get all the air out. Wish I would have thought about that.
GFM
Ok will give it a shot thanks for the feed back. Thanksfor your videos good stuff
Great video. Gonna do mine real soon (it's been four years since last service entry).
Both of them work ok. This type of filter is badly in need of replacement by newer style spin on types.
GFM
My friend I already feel I owe you a few steak dinners but I have a question. My bleeder screw with new gasket is leaking/weeping. Within 10 minutes after being wiped dry there is a slick pooling up. Static with the unit turned off. It is the type that screws into the top center of the main through filter hold down bolt. It is a slotted/blade head and I've tightened it in stages to try and stop the leak. It is now very tight. Any further and I may break the screw and turn a small issue into a big problem. Should I try another new gasket... Double up the gaskets.... Rubber o-ring... Replace the screw with a hex/cap screw, stainless maybe would be stronger? The screw that's in there now appears to be a 'tool pail replacement'. Ideas? Either way thanks for all the helpful videos, Mike.
Thank you for your feedback! I do not see a knob on the floor. Will I be able to send you a picture of the lines leading to my tank from the filter
Where is the approved place to take a vacuum reading with a Tigerloop in the single pipe system? Still at the pump or between the filter and the Tigerloop? Does the air vent in the loop foul up the vacuum reading downstream to the pump? Thanks. Good videos. Doug
I see 2 replacement filter types compatible with the General 1A-25a filter canister. The felt 1A-30 and a white Micro-Flow type. The newer white one seems to filter a lot more junk than the felt one and they cost about the same... Which one do you prefer and why ?
Great video thanks.
I've actually seen some technicians bleed the filter using only the center bolt.
Do you think its a viable alternative ?
Thanks
The furnace is running while the bleeder screw is loose, correct? My filter is in line with the bottom of the tank, not gravity fed. Thanks.
(rust disolver for the rust) (break disc cleaner for the slug or oil ) try this tell me what you think
I checked the whole lenght of my mobile home. Theres no oil filter or the thing u showed first. Would it be hard to install one and do u have a video on that?
I do not. Pretty straight forward. filter in the suction line. Usually done with flare connections.
GFM
Ever figure that out?? I’m 3 months old in living here.. I don’t think there is a filter.. maybe under house, but I didn’t notice. My fan keeps blowing after it shuts off.. don’t know what’s going on. At least it’s not the burner always going..
Great video very informative 👏
Please Help!!! I have to change my oil tank filter however there is no knob or handle to shut off the oil valve. How can I shut off the valve without having this???? I am in desperate need!
My fulflo has only a center bolt with a center nut on top that apparently is where you bleed it. It is all in one....
You are truly the best!! Thanks for all of your help! :-)
Thanks buddy, this was a big help!
+greyflap Welcome
GFM
my can is leaking, i have changed the gasket. it started leaking again about a week later..the can is on a slight angle. the leak is small and coming out of the side that the can is tilted towards..Could the can being tilted play a part in it leaking?
No. If you have changed all gaskets, you may have to replace the canister.
GFM
How do we replace a leaking fireomatic valve at a residential oil ta nk. Full of oil without empting tank
Sounds like fun. I have done it by pulling a vacuum on the tank with, believe it or not, my vacuum pump. This is not easy. If there is a oil gauge, you may have to remove it and put in a plug. DO NOT pull a deep vacuum. About 10" or even maybe 5" will easily do it. Remove the filter, pull a vacuum on the top, open the fireomatic as you are vacuuming to see when it will not leak. The fittings on the top of the tank have tendency to leak, so it may be tough to get it to hold vacuum.
Or, you could remove the valve and plug it with your thumb while you try to screw on a new one and hope. Let me know how you do.
GFM
If you coat the gaskets in oil before you put them in they should seal better.
i need to change my filter but i am not seeing any shut off valve for the oil?
If the system is a 2 pipe system, and the oil tank is below the burner, you may not have a shut off valve.
GFM
Are all oil tank filters universal?
No. The general 1A25B has been the most common, but there are many disposable spin on units that are far better.
GFM
Is it necessary to filter the oil? What will happen if you don't?
The nozzle has a very small orifice. It plugs easily. Also, the pump can be damaged.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Well, I've kept this old oil furnace running for about 3 seasons so far, making repairs MANY times using info from your very helpful videos and advice - now I'm stumped - I can't get it to come on at all - hitting the rest button got it to start up but would quit after 30 secs or so. Now it does not work at all (isn't "popped out"). I was having oil mist in the chamber AND (get this) spark also but wouldn't ignite. Even tried lighting the oil mist filled chamber with a electric match stuck into the access port and it STILL wouldn't light! WT_ is going on?
Further - put a new nozzle in a couple days ago - also right now have the transformer tilted out so I can see the burner assembly. Have attached jumper leads to the burner electrode "paddles" so I can see into the chamber to check for spark but now I can't use the reset button to try getting anything going. No, I don't have a filter on the oil supply line but do tap off the oil from an upper level in the fuel supply tank so any "debris" is settled below that. How do I "reset" the reset button or what does it being inoperable indicate?
What did you use to clean canister
Tide detergent works best.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman blaster cabinet using glass beads makes these canisters like new. Paint with high temp paint and Wow!... looks like a brand new unit. Forget the carb and brake cleaner for carbonized crud and rust.
Does it matter which side goes up?
If its a felt filter, the exposed spring is up. If it is a white colored element, it makes no difference.
GFM
thank you...
Right Give It A Tap. That's because Most of These Valves Don't Fully Close. So In A Fire And When The Inner Part Of The Knob Melts More The Likely The Valve Will Be At Least Partly OPEN. NOT GOOD
Can I use my soot vac
You can try. If you open the valve, and it starts leaking, its not enough.
GFM
Yes. you can send them to grayfurnaceman@gmail.com
GFM
Probably so.
GFM
why not put some newspaper down there - easy clean up afterwards.
Actually, that is what I do when servicing a burner. I should have shown that here.
GFM
Thank you.... I just submitted photos to your Gmail account
its easier and neater to bleed it at the pump
I like to bleed at the filter and check for leaks when it is done. Maybe just different methods.
GFM