I am also very cost conscious. But I prefer to use light pollution block filters or narrow bands filters which also block UV/IR. They are far more expensive compared to budget UV/IR filters but benefits of using those filters are far more than cost savings and expand interests in astrophotography. That is what I think.
There are certainly situations where Light Pollution Filters are warranted and a great idea. But there are also situations where Light Pollution Filters are unnecessary or even not ideal. For instance, taking Luminance images with Light Pollution Filters will dampen certain colors, I suspect. For luminance imaging, it is my impression that UV.IR filters are best to give true color images. Thanks Katsumi-san!
Yeah awesome videos! FIRST too.. After your episode 21, I ordered that 2" Svbony Amazon USA $23.99. the Baader UV/Ir does show some more Red in some stars. I would say the Baader is better of the 2 BUT for 6x the cost??? Thank you for the very detailed info and effort!!!
I think we are in agreement here.Glad you found these videos helpful. Your observation about the reds in the Baader filter are noted - that may also be true. But I hesitated to make color comments too much because I worried that I might have introduced some bias in the processing. I do not think so, but processing is still mysterious to me. BTW, these kind of videos seem to satisfy my personal need to "play scientist". I find this sort of imaging (& analysis) is just as much fun as capturing 6 hours of data from a beautiful nebula. Maybe even more so. Thanks for watching Astrophotography Japan!
Really glad I came across your channel. You and I basically have the same setup. I have an Astro-Tech 80 ED F7 with SvBony 0.8 reducer. I also have the 533MC Pro. I use an AM3 mount. A couple of questions. From the camera, I use the 11mm collar, a 1mm spacer, ZWO filter Draw Gen 2 and the 16.5 adapter. What size spacer is between the collar and the Filter Drawer on your rig? Based on the schematics for the reducer and camera, I come out to 55mm for back focus without that extra spacer you have. Is that added because of the filter use? Lastly, what do you do if you want to use additional filters like a broadband filter, but still need to cut IR? Thank you very much for your time.
Hi Yervant, the filter drawer is 21mm, the spacer is 16.5mm, the ASI533MC collar is 11mm and the recessed sensor is 6.5mm (21.0 + 16.5 + 11.0 + 6.5 = 55mm). That is what I always use. I looked closely at my video again and I think I recognized why you are confused. In the close-up photo, it does appear there is an extra-spacer between the filter drawer and the 11mm camera collar. I have no explanation for this. You are correct, there should be nothing there except the collar. I tried to find that photograph to check if it was a "trick of the light" or something, but cannot locate that specific image. Unfortunately, I must have grabbed some earlier "stock" image of mine and did not check it closely (my apologies). I should not have used that photo. As for employing a second filter, I have only done that once and I screwed it into the upstream side of the reducer/flattener. In my experience, the added back focus requirement caused by one filter thickness is negligible when working with this scope and focal length. I tried to correct for it with a spacer once and saw no difference in image quality. I suspect two filter thicknesses is probably negligible, too (but I never investigated it). Thanks for watching and commenting. Again, my apologies for the inappropriate photo. Bummer. PAUL
No sorry needed. Many thanks for clarifying. I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t doing something wrong as we have the exact same imaging train except for the scope. Mine is the At80ED. I purchased Optolong’s L-Enhance and L- Pro filters. Both are effective at cutting the IR. Keep up the great videos. Thanks for doing it.
Very interesting test Paul, thank you
Trying to be thorough!
Thanks for another interesting video!
DOITASHIMASHITA!
Awesome, thanks 🖖🏼
My pleasure. Glad it was helpful!
I am also very cost conscious. But I prefer to use light pollution block filters or narrow bands filters which also block UV/IR. They are far more expensive compared to budget UV/IR filters but benefits of using those filters are far more than cost savings and expand interests in astrophotography. That is what I think.
There are certainly situations where Light Pollution Filters are warranted and a great idea. But there are also situations where Light Pollution Filters are unnecessary or even not ideal. For instance, taking Luminance images with Light Pollution Filters will dampen certain colors, I suspect. For luminance imaging, it is my impression that UV.IR filters are best to give true color images. Thanks Katsumi-san!
Yeah awesome videos! FIRST too.. After your episode 21, I ordered that 2" Svbony Amazon USA $23.99. the Baader UV/Ir does show some more Red in some stars. I would say the Baader is better of the 2 BUT for 6x the cost??? Thank you for the very detailed info and effort!!!
I think we are in agreement here.Glad you found these videos helpful. Your observation about the reds in the Baader filter are noted - that may also be true. But I hesitated to make color comments too much because I worried that I might have introduced some bias in the processing. I do not think so, but processing is still mysterious to me. BTW, these kind of videos seem to satisfy my personal need to "play scientist". I find this sort of imaging (& analysis) is just as much fun as capturing 6 hours of data from a beautiful nebula. Maybe even more so. Thanks for watching Astrophotography Japan!
Really glad I came across your channel. You and I basically have the same setup. I have an Astro-Tech 80 ED F7 with SvBony 0.8 reducer. I also have the 533MC Pro. I use an AM3 mount. A couple of questions. From the camera, I use the 11mm collar, a 1mm spacer, ZWO filter Draw Gen 2 and the 16.5 adapter. What size spacer is between the collar and the Filter Drawer on your rig? Based on the schematics for the reducer and camera, I come out to 55mm for back focus without that extra spacer you have. Is that added because of the filter use? Lastly, what do you do if you want to use additional filters like a broadband filter, but still need to cut IR? Thank you very much for your time.
Hi Yervant, the filter drawer is 21mm, the spacer is 16.5mm, the ASI533MC collar is 11mm and the recessed sensor is 6.5mm (21.0 + 16.5 + 11.0 + 6.5 = 55mm). That is what I always use. I looked closely at my video again and I think I recognized why you are confused. In the close-up photo, it does appear there is an extra-spacer between the filter drawer and the 11mm camera collar. I have no explanation for this. You are correct, there should be nothing there except the collar. I tried to find that photograph to check if it was a "trick of the light" or something, but cannot locate that specific image. Unfortunately, I must have grabbed some earlier "stock" image of mine and did not check it closely (my apologies). I should not have used that photo. As for employing a second filter, I have only done that once and I screwed it into the upstream side of the reducer/flattener. In my experience, the added back focus requirement caused by one filter thickness is negligible when working with this scope and focal length. I tried to correct for it with a spacer once and saw no difference in image quality. I suspect two filter thicknesses is probably negligible, too (but I never investigated it). Thanks for watching and commenting. Again, my apologies for the inappropriate photo. Bummer. PAUL
No sorry needed. Many thanks for clarifying. I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t doing something wrong as we have the exact same imaging train except for the scope. Mine is the At80ED. I purchased Optolong’s L-Enhance and L- Pro filters. Both are effective at cutting the IR. Keep up the great videos. Thanks for doing it.
I appreciate that. Next video to be released in a few hours! Just another fun travel adventure....
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