Idk about useless, I'm in bortle 6 and the SVBONY (cheapest one) has literally been the difference between nebulosity being there and not, as in completely invisible to visible, seems pretty significant to me.
@@coleisman - That depends what camera you use. I am at Bortle 5-6 and I get nebulosity without any filters with osc cmos camera Except my stars are bloated due to the filter I got has no UV/IR cut capability.
@@Cuntymccuntface123 There are so many variables and, despite Nico has made such amazing job, his excelent work didn't cover all of them. For example: differente ISOs, total exposure time vs apparent magnitude, telescope aperture and so on. You should test the limits of your gear bf buying a filter and this video can give you some directions.
Excellent presentation, the best I have seen on this topic. Having just watched this for the second time, I absorbed a little more information. Greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺🦘👍
OMG i am so excited to see this. You mentioned you were going to make it a while back and I have been eagerly waiting for it to drop. Thank you for all you do to bring us the best information we can use to become better at our craft.
This is by far the most informative and direct review. I really appreciate you taking the time to do this, and really look forward to checking out your website. Thank you
Fantastic job Nico! Thank you for going above and beyond. This combined with your new website will prove to be extremely valuable for the community. I hope you have opportunities to continue adding to the list in the future. I'm sure people would love to see what you could do with the L-Extreme!
This is the best comparison video I've seen of these filters, and one I wish existed a few months ago before I made my LP filter purchase! I love the extensive knowledge and information that your videos provide. Thank you, Nico!
Nico, thanks. The spectrograph presentation was OUTSTANDING!!! A Master class, really. Your comparison helped me decide on getting a light pollution filter. As you know, these can be quite costly, and I don't have to get the very best, but I do buy so that I do not have to replace later on, if that makes any sense? I opted for the Svbony CLS, 2". I live in a city. And I do shoot both astrocameras, and unmodified DSLRs, so at less than $50.00 I can justify the cost for the DSLR use .... Again, nice job. And thank you!
Awesome review. I got the SVBony CLS clip-in for my unmodified Canon T2i + 70-200mm lens to shoot under my bortle 8-9 skies (with my Skyguider Pro) and it seems to do a very nice job. I also have the 2" version of the Optolong L-eNhance, but I can't really use it with a camera lens, so I'll wait with it until I upgrade to a small refractor.
Really impressive method and delivery, Nico! Recently found your channel by referral from a photography friend and I've been so refreshed by your atypical, scientific approach to photography. Also Boston-based, so it's nice to know there's hope for me to get some good shots one day. Cheers!
What a GREAT review. We love that it is to the point, and let's the photos speak, and love your opinions at the end.....please do more of these....IDAS 1 is what i have , and pleased so far...would like to see how it stack up to your scrutiny.
Just found your channel in the last couple of weeks since I bought a star tracker and have been experimenting with it and deep sky objects. I actually tried shooting the North American nebula last night from my balcony in Somerville as well, and was quite disappointed to see the lack of color and details. I may have to look into a filter, though I frequently go to the white Mountains in New Hampshire and dark skies are quite good up there! I've learned a lot already from your videos, I'd say the biggest thing I have to improve my knowledge on at this point is image stretching and editing! Thanks for your great work!
I'm only 30 seconds in, and Nico said "exhaustive." I thought, "Oh dear," it being Nico. But hey - its just 20 minutes. I don't need to set aside a whole evening. (Not a complaint!! Nico's stuff is worth spending the evenings.)
This is a great, well researched review. I live near Seattle, under a bortle 7 sky. Just bought the Svbony CLS as it's the cheapest I could find and I'm still figuring out if this is a hobby I can get into. The filter arrived 5 days after I ordered it and right on the night I got it it started raining. We've had 2 semi clear nights in the month that I've had it and I don't think it'll get better soon. I guess I will have to wait till spring given that traveling is still not such a good idea. Bummer!
www.seattleastro.org/activities/2 Ask around about dark sites at the Seattle Astronomical Society Astrophotography Special Interest Group. As long as we all stay 6 ft apart and mask up, I don't see why we can't do astrophotography safely as it is all outside which is a lot safer than inside. The rain/cloud problem I can't help with. I know Seattle is particularly bad for that aspect. Best of luck!!
GREAT Review! I appreciate the non-bias comparison and then your thoughts at the end with your personal selections. Hope to see more in the future - especially liked your LAB setup to compare the published specs. I would like to see what this comparison looks like with LED light pollution, Incandescent, Low-pressure sodium, and high-pressure sodium to round out the comparison because my Bortel 8 may not be the same as someone else's Bortel 8.
@@NebulaPhotos waiting anxiously for that one! Please include single band as well as dual-narrowband ones like L-eNhance and L-eXtreme as well. That would rock!!! :-)
Hey Nico great job on this comparison - I missed it when it first came out. I own the Astronimik CLS and the Baader Neodynium and found very similar results to you in my bortle 5 region in Monroe, CT. I purchased the CLS first but was unhappy with the colors and more apparent noise that I got with it so I went with the Baader. I really don't use either much since I do most imaging with a monochrome camera, however, I now have an ASI 294MC Pro to be used with a new setup (once it arrives) so I will be using the Baader a lot more. I also purchased the IDAS NBZ for Ha and OIII imaging as well. - Cheers Kurt
Thanks Kurt. Yeah the Baader gives nice colors, and is very similar to the Optolong L-Pro. If I was doing much OSC work with moderate light pollution that is what I'd use too.
I appreciate the work you put in. I know that must have been exhausting. I got the l-pro but have not had a chance to play with it. My camera just got modified and I’m waiting to get it back. I’m under bortle 6-7 so I’m eagerly waiting clear skies. Thanks for your efforts.
Excellent review and thoroughly done. I look forward to seeing further tests of more extreme dual band filters in the class of the Optolong L-Enhance, Astronomik UHC or Radian filters which OPT should be able to supply you, if they haven’t already. And keep in mind that it isn’t necessary to shoot only through a filter. Under darker skies shooting unfiltered and filtered images and blending them later gives you the best of both worlds: the natural star colours and more subtle tones of some nebulas along with the richest and greatest extent of faint red nebulosity. It isn’t either/or. Unless you are shooting under light polluted skies, then a filter and modified camera is essential. And in that case an even more extreme filter than what you tested here would likely be better. Clear skies!
I have the svbony cls filter, one thing ive noticed is it seems to reduce star size a bit, which is always a good thing in astrophotography. but I would only suggest these in heavy light pollution as It seems I've been picking up less faint detail with it in comparison to shooting without it, and I'm in a bortle 4/5.
@@NebulaPhotos Great in depth video btw. I just started this hobby in may of this year, and your videos have been a big help. thanks for your contribution to astrophotography. Clear skies from here in eastern long island.
Excellent review Nico! It works out great for me I only bought the Astronomik cls for my Canon 80D. Going to look into the IR cut filter now. Thanks for the review!
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Awesome and reassuring that the filter that I have already ordered (optolong cls) and is hopefully somewhere in the mail was the right choice (bortle 8 in Reykjavík)
Great review! I shoot under bortle 8 skies with an unmodified Canon 80D, I use the Astronomik CLS. Really like that filter, so it was nice to see your results with it and all the other. Keep up the good work and clear skies.
I'm pretty much in agreement. Confirmation Bias aside, I had both a full-spectrum T3i and a 294MC-Pro as well as UV/IR, Astronomik, Baader Neo and a few no-name CLS filters. The Baader definitely seemed to produce the best results on both when I was closer to light pollution. Especially with color. I ended up having to part with half of my gear but kept the Baader and UV/IR for use with the 294 because they were my favorites. I'm happy I did. Now if the sky would clear up, that'd be great.
Great job Nico. Clear and objective; more so than most other comparisons I've viewed. I'm using Orion SkyGlow filter but still doesn't darken sufficiently my Bortle 5 skies outside Pittsburgh. Need a more effective CLS filter! Thanks much.
Sounds like this might have been a challenging video to put together, but it turned out fantastic! Excellent comparison! Everything I would want to make the best decision.
Thank you so much for this video. A lot of useful information. I can´t see how to attach to 5D Mk III the baader filter, unles you have a 48 mm lens...because, there is not clip version, or I´m grong? Anyway. Thank you so much.
Man this is a great review. Really breaks it down in detail. Personally I thought the Optolong L-Pro was the best optically. And the SVBONY was close enough to the others that it’s price makes it the best if you’re on a budget.
The Svbony CLS is only $35 and my sky is bright at night from the city and money is important so I use that. The others are beyond my budget. So great reviews
Hello Nico! It was great to meet you at NEAF this year. I was going back through your videos as I am filter hunting for the new ZWO Duo. In this video, you briefly discuss your spectrometer setup. I would be curious to see an in-depth video on this as I might be interested in building one of my own.
Around 13:17, if you compare Baader Neodymium and Astronomik CLS, the stars from Astronomik CLS is larger. I think it may be due to thin cloud which can also cause lower contrast in the image.
This explained a lot from my photo perspective. As just starting out, it helped me prioritize where to focus. (Ha!) Glass, location, filters, mounts, etc.
For the Boston area where you did the test for Bortle 9, would you say the predominant kind of streetlight is old fashioned sodium (yellow) or have they moved mainly to LED?
@@NebulaPhotos Arrrgghh, I have just found out that altho my city (Victoria, BC, Canada) has now moved to LED streetlights, they are largely of the warmer 3000K temperature. They use the cooler, 4000K for street crossings and roadways. I live in a residential area, so it would seem that my main influence would be the warmer LED's. In that case, using an UN-modified DSLR (Canon 5D4), would the regular CLS (Astronomik or Svbony) be best?
@@neild108 Any of these ones would work well with a stock Canon 5D4, but I believe that particular camera model doesn't work with clip-in filters. Do you use a telescope? If so, you might have a place to mount a 2" filter which makes it easier. In that case, I'd probably just go for the cheapest one (the Svbony CLS) since it performed very well for the price.
@@neild108 Unfortunately, no. Straight from the Astronomik website: "Please note that the XL-Clip filters will not work with the Canon 5DS, 5DSR, and the 5D Mk IV" www.astronomik.com/en/clip-filter/clip-filter-fur-canon-vollformat.html With just lenses and the 5D Mk IV, I think you will be limited to filters you can put on the front of the lenses, none of which I really recommend unfortunately. So I'd just do many short exposures. Light pollution can also be overcome with just more total time on target. See my recent imaging battle with Cuiv where he got an amazing shot of the Pleiades from Tokyo!
@@NebulaPhotos Hey, thanks for the head's up on the Astronomik XL for 5D4. And for the great tips about total time on target and doing more short exposures. Will try that.
I’m just about to send my DSLR out to be for spectrum modified. From what I’m gathering, the benefit of doing this is to get the IR light that is normally cut out on a stock camera. Wouldn’t a filter like the L2 also do the same as the built-in DSLR IR filter and block out the IR? I thought IR passing through was what I want for nebula. Thanks and great video!
Hi Christopher, Stock DSLRs often have a very aggressive IR-Cut filter that actually cuts well in to "the visible spectrum" making red nebulae less bright (e.g. pass the Ha line at 35% transmission). Now what is a bit confusing is what we normally call "the visible spectrum" is 400-700nm, but humans can't really see much past 650nm. Ha is at 656nm and SII is at 672nm. These are the main spectral emission lines we want for nebulae, especially the Ha. They are both deep red. We are typically not interested in picking up the infrared (IR) in amateur astrophotography, and due to the way optics work passing the infrared will actually result in star bloat typically because most lenses can't focus on the infrared and the visible light spectrum at the same time. So the reason to use an "Astronomik L2" or other UV/IR cut filter with a full spectrum camera is to block the IR, but it still passes the Ha and SII (nebula emission lines). If you do go "full spectrum" with your mod, you will want to use a UV/IR cut filter too. Really the only reason to go "full spectrum" over an "ha mod" is if you want to shoot IR photography with an IR pass filter either during the day or for planets with a telescope. More on these topics in my intro to filters video: ua-cam.com/video/ys-28z4qTYw/v-deo.html Clear skies, Nico
WOW Nico!!!! What a GREAT review...But please next time start to measure the filters glass thickness, why? Because depending on what the filter thickness is that effects back focus, so let's say a 2mm think filter changes your back focus about 30% + or -, and what's very important is if all of your filters are all the same thickness like 1.85mm thick then they should be parfocal, that is the focus is about the same, so once you set your focus it may not need to be changed unless the temps change. 1 reason to purchase the same brand of filter is when you change a filter like LRGB your focus is very much are the same. What you did here is the best I have ever seen and I hope you will continue to do this kind of testing / reviews? I would get the Optolong L-eXtreme & the Optolong L-eNhance 2 of the best filters for the money.
Thanks Christopher! I did plan to measure filter thickness, but I couldn't figure out how to get the mounting off the Baader or Astronomik. Now that I'm thinking more clearly, I can use a measured shim and still use my digital calipers without removing the filter mount. I will do that soon, and add filter thickness to the website. I do plan to continue reviewing astrophotography products including many more filters. The L-eXtreme and L-eNhance are on my list. I won't give any estimate of when such reviews will be done, but I tend to be slow. This review took six months from concept to completion. Clear skies, Nico
Great review. Made me feel better about my astronomik cls. Was thinking about getting the l-pro for broadband, but do you think it would be all that different? From this review i wouldn't think so. I'm using a Ha modified t5i. I can't really ask for a better sky comparison, I'm in medford! Are you in somerville or were just visiting?
Great review! I have a couple of technical comments for you to consider. Since these are all thin film interference filters (thin film stacks of high and low index), their design is probably established with normal incident light. It was unclear if the stand you developed included a collimated light source. If not, you could have a large portion of the light at substantially non-normal angles. In that case, the optical thickness of each layer will be different and each filter design will behave differently (less transmission and wavelength isolation shifted). This could be a key contributor to your "as measured" results varying from the manufacturer's specification. You might want to attempt to collimate the light a bit (could even emulate the focal length of the lens you intend to use) and then see how the filters perform on your spectrometer.
Yes, that is what added substantially to the cost of building the device. I bought my collimated tungsten lamp from Thor Labs. I could try to emulate my focal length by adding more lenses, but I don't think that should be necessary. From what I understand talking to others is that it's pretty normal for these filters to be not completely 'in spec'. The transmission charts they send are not that particular filter measured, but rather an ideal filter. Most filter manufacturers don't state how much variance is acceptable. All that said, I didn't see really anything out of the ordinary in the real world imaging tests which is what really matters more to me.
@@NebulaPhotos If you could draw a "idealized" filter spectrum showing transmission by wavelength, what would it look like? Which specific wavelengths would you want to block? There are a few companies out there making more advanced optical thin film products for fluorescence microscopy, telecom applications, etc. Like the filters you reviewed, these can be bandpass, multi band pass in nature or even designed for specific slope shapes over the entire visible spectrum. They typically have ion beam or magnetron sputtering systems with advanced optical endpoint control to deliver higher transmission >95% and very steep and deep optical isolation OD5 or even OD6 performance. It would be an interesting design challenge to see if a manufacturable design solution could be created for your "ideal" spectral response.
great review. do you think the Optolong L-Pro and the Skytech L-Pro Max are very similar ? someone said that the Optolong L-Pro produces a litte bit more starhalos.
Hi Nils, I haven't tested the Altair Skytech L Pro so I can't say for sure, but my guess is they are literally identical and Optolong is the supplier for Altair, as they are for ZWO. Cheers, Nico
Great review, very nice! Keep it up! A small feedback for your website: It would be awesome if you could add a slider to compare the before (without) and after (with) picture using the filter, because you already have all the data. Also at the first moment I found it a little bit confusing, that in the description of the pictures there is no note that a filter is used. Especially because in the Video you compared the picture taken with a filter to the picture without.
Thanks for the feedback. I don't know how to do the slider thing, but I can look in to it. I did make this page for directly comparing the filters in the review against no filter: www.astrofilters.com/2020/10/15/light-pollution-filter-shootout/
this was incredibly helpful. almost made me wonder if i ordered the wrong filters haha i have the asi294mc pro coming and i have the l-enhance and l-pro filters. but watching this, there are clearly better filtering options to use. i live in an area with bortle 5 skies, that being said there are areas close by which i have not gone to that are bortle 3. you gave me something to think about for future purchases
Great video! Really useful! What type of adapter do you use to attach a 2” filter to a dslr? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again… great content :).
Thanks for that exactly what I was looking for. I'm Bortle 6 using a ASI183MC, so look torn between the Neodymium and the L-Pro... but this has helped a lot. Probably start with the Neo at nearly half the price of the other!
This is a great review. I am looking for a filter for EAA so live stacking with typically sub 10s exposures in Bortle 6 using a ZWO camera. I want something to knock down some of of the pollution without losing too much of the object. I think for an all round choice for galaxies and clusters as well as nebulae I will go for the Neodynium. It seems to produce a more natural image although be less effective as a CLS filter. If I was in Bortle 8/9 I would go for the CLS filters. I tried the Svbony UHC and it introduces a fairly aggressive purple cast like even on Arcturus. Their CLS filter actually looks a good budget pick though..
Using a 5D Mark IV on Canon EF Lenses. I have looked all over for a clip in filter but it seems that they are only available for the APS-C equipment. Have I missed something?
Very scientific, nice job. Although I probably like the filters in the opposite order but that's probably why there are so many opinions on this because it is subjective pretty much especially if you are not an expert in it.
Yep, I'd say in the end, when considering purchasing a LP filter, it really just comes down to: do you like how it affects the image? Which is mostly a subjective assessment
I would have been interested to know how difficult each one is to colour correct. I have a CLS that is very hard to get rid of the blue, particularly on star colour - and I’ve heard the L pro is green…
Congratulations for the excellent video as always. I'm shooting from polluted skies (bortle 7) with very close LED street lighting. I understand that if I use an optolong l-enhance will help a lot but I will exclude most of the colors of reflection nebulae and galaxies, if instead I still want to photograph these objects what can I use having the nearby LEDs and shooting with a not-modified reflex? Could Idas lps d3 work? Thank you
Hey Nico thanks for all that you do, and btw I had a question. I have an unmodified Z5, And I was taking a look at the different filters, did some DD looking at the ones on astronomik also, and I suppose the CLS might be the best fit for her? Again it’s Unmodified and I’m at a bortle scale 7-8.
This is a great review! I have a stock Canon 5D Mark III and I’ve been trying to find a good filter for it. It’s a great coincidence that you have one too. Also what exposure and ISO did you take the bortle 4 photos at? Thank you!
I have buyed the SVBONY CLS filter with a bit of fear because I am begginer in this hobbie. However the improve in my images was very very nice. A cheap filter but solve with good results. Thanks Nico
This is an amazing and informative review! I’m a high school student just getting into astrophotography, and am just wondering what are some adequate exposure times for, say, the North America Nebula under Bortle 6 skies with a stock DSLR and no light-pollution filter? I’ve tried something like 80x20s at 70mm, f/2.8 and ISO 800 but I'm, barely able to see the outline of my subject? Thanks Nico, and I love your videos!
More total exposure time is always better! NA Nebula is a tough object with a stock DSLR due to it being a dim, diffuse object that mostly shines in Ha (656nm) where many stock DSLRs are not particularly sensitive. To know if 20s, f/2.8, ISO800 is the right sub-exposure time, use the 1/4 histogram rule: take a test exposure, go to playback and hit the INFO button until you see a histogram, the peak of that histogram should be hitting about 1/4 over from the left. Adjust ISO or shutter speed until it is.
Almost 4 years later, the work you did still has tremendous value, keep it up Nico!
Thanks!
This is how all reviews should be like. Amazing job Nico!
Great Non-Biased Technical analysis of 4 popular filters, best i've seen so far on youtube. Thanks for putting in the work Nico.
Glad it was helpful!
The results are not what I wanted to hear, but they prevented me from buying useless filters. Thanks for the review.
Glad it was helpful Alex. Clear skies, Nico
So they don't work? Thanks for saving me 20 minutes! 🍻
Idk about useless, I'm in bortle 6 and the SVBONY (cheapest one) has literally been the difference between nebulosity being there and not, as in completely invisible to visible, seems pretty significant to me.
@@coleisman - That depends what camera you use. I am at Bortle 5-6 and I get nebulosity without any filters with osc cmos camera Except my stars are bloated due to the filter I got has no UV/IR cut capability.
@@Cuntymccuntface123 There are so many variables and, despite Nico has made such amazing job, his excelent work didn't cover all of them. For example: differente ISOs, total exposure time vs apparent magnitude, telescope aperture and so on. You should test the limits of your gear bf buying a filter and this video can give you some directions.
This is probably the best filter review I have ever seen on UA-cam. Really clear and helpful. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Clear skies, Nico
How I am only now watching this?? This was a titanic effort Nico, thank you so much for doing all of this! Absolutely amazing!
The quality of your videos is off the charts! Thanks for putting in all this hard work!
Excellent presentation, the best I have seen on this topic. Having just watched this for the second time, I absorbed a little more information. Greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺🦘👍
OMG i am so excited to see this. You mentioned you were going to make it a while back and I have been eagerly waiting for it to drop. Thank you for all you do to bring us the best information we can use to become better at our craft.
Thanks Miguel! Hope it helps 👍Clear skies, Nico
Answers almost all the questions one can have.....with detailed scientific and objective explanations! Thank you!
This is by far the most informative and direct review. I really appreciate you taking the time to do this, and really look forward to checking out your website.
Thank you
Nico, perfect presentation for my current state and growth in astro-photograpy. Nice to see the various comparison.
I really appreciate the diligence and methodical approach for a proper review. Thanks a lot!
Most underrated YT channel. you should get more subscribers
Fantastic job Nico! Thank you for going above and beyond. This combined with your new website will prove to be extremely valuable for the community. I hope you have opportunities to continue adding to the list in the future. I'm sure people would love to see what you could do with the L-Extreme!
As I'm getting back into the hobby after many years absence, and shopping for filters, this is EXACTLY what I needed to see. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
This is the best comparison video I've seen of these filters, and one I wish existed a few months ago before I made my LP filter purchase! I love the extensive knowledge and information that your videos provide. Thank you, Nico!
Thanks Nico, that was very helpful. Keep up the good work, you've won a new subscriber :-)
TY for the In Depth review. I purchased the Baader because I mainly shoot at 360mm in my backyard and our hospital use Na-Lamp ...
Thanks Nico! Makes me feel good I went for the SVBONY CLS filter instead of splurging a bit more and getting the Astronomik filter
Nico, thanks. The spectrograph presentation was OUTSTANDING!!! A Master class, really.
Your comparison helped me decide on getting a light pollution filter. As you know, these can be quite costly, and I don't have to get the very best, but I do buy so that I do not have to replace later on, if that makes any sense?
I opted for the Svbony CLS, 2". I live in a city. And I do shoot both astrocameras, and unmodified DSLRs, so at less than $50.00 I can justify the cost for the DSLR use ....
Again, nice job. And thank you!
Thanks for your great review! It helped me a lot making my decision for an Astronomik CLS filter on my stock Nikon Z6II.
Awesome review. I got the SVBony CLS clip-in for my unmodified Canon T2i + 70-200mm lens to shoot under my bortle 8-9 skies (with my Skyguider Pro) and it seems to do a very nice job.
I also have the 2" version of the Optolong L-eNhance, but I can't really use it with a camera lens, so I'll wait with it until I upgrade to a small refractor.
Complimenti, fai dei video esaustivi e completi con molti esempi pratici.
Really impressive method and delivery, Nico! Recently found your channel by referral from a photography friend and I've been so refreshed by your atypical, scientific approach to photography. Also Boston-based, so it's nice to know there's hope for me to get some good shots one day. Cheers!
As usual a great and useful video Nico!
What a GREAT review. We love that it is to the point, and let's the photos speak, and love your opinions at the end.....please do more of these....IDAS 1 is what i have , and pleased so far...would like to see how it stack up to your scrutiny.
Amazing Nico. Happy New Year to you.
Looking forward to this year's content. 👍
Awesome thank you! I just purchased a used Astro modified DSLR and have a three filter set of the SVBony filters. I'm in bortle 5.
Excellent video nico. Just what i was looking for.
Just found your channel in the last couple of weeks since I bought a star tracker and have been experimenting with it and deep sky objects. I actually tried shooting the North American nebula last night from my balcony in Somerville as well, and was quite disappointed to see the lack of color and details. I may have to look into a filter, though I frequently go to the white Mountains in New Hampshire and dark skies are quite good up there! I've learned a lot already from your videos, I'd say the biggest thing I have to improve my knowledge on at this point is image stretching and editing! Thanks for your great work!
Thank you for the thorough review and great information!
I'm only 30 seconds in, and Nico said "exhaustive." I thought, "Oh dear," it being Nico. But hey - its just 20 minutes. I don't need to set aside a whole evening. (Not a complaint!! Nico's stuff is worth spending the evenings.)
1.5x :-)
This is a great, well researched review. I live near Seattle, under a bortle 7 sky. Just bought the Svbony CLS as it's the cheapest I could find and I'm still figuring out if this is a hobby I can get into. The filter arrived 5 days after I ordered it and right on the night I got it it started raining. We've had 2 semi clear nights in the month that I've had it and I don't think it'll get better soon. I guess I will have to wait till spring given that traveling is still not such a good idea. Bummer!
www.seattleastro.org/activities/2
Ask around about dark sites at the Seattle Astronomical Society Astrophotography Special Interest Group. As long as we all stay 6 ft apart and mask up, I don't see why we can't do astrophotography safely as it is all outside which is a lot safer than inside. The rain/cloud problem I can't help with. I know Seattle is particularly bad for that aspect. Best of luck!!
Thanks for the excellent information.
Given the price of the Svbony filter I'm just going to buy one and see how it works for me.
GREAT Review! I appreciate the non-bias comparison and then your thoughts at the end with your personal selections. Hope to see more in the future - especially liked your LAB setup to compare the published specs. I would like to see what this comparison looks like with LED light pollution, Incandescent, Low-pressure sodium, and high-pressure sodium to round out the comparison because my Bortel 8 may not be the same as someone else's Bortel 8.
Thank you for this review. I have Optolong L-pro and Bortle 9 skies, so I do not think I did a bad purchase given you analysis. Thank you again.
Yes, with a dedicated astro camera (or modded dslr) the L-Pro was good in all conditions
Amazing job! Thank you for this very in-depth review!
That was an awesome review. In depth with spectrographs and pictures. Please do a review of narrowband filters too!!!
Thanks, Glad you liked it! Narrowband filters reviews will come eventually
@@NebulaPhotos waiting anxiously for that one! Please include single band as well as dual-narrowband ones like L-eNhance and L-eXtreme as well. That would rock!!! :-)
Loved the spectrophotometry part. From my work to hobby, it continues 😊.
Amazing job Nico! thank you for the great review
Hey Nico great job on this comparison - I missed it when it first came out. I own the Astronimik CLS and the Baader Neodynium and found very similar results to you in my bortle 5 region in Monroe, CT. I purchased the CLS first but was unhappy with the colors and more apparent noise that I got with it so I went with the Baader. I really don't use either much since I do most imaging with a monochrome camera, however, I now have an ASI 294MC Pro to be used with a new setup (once it arrives) so I will be using the Baader a lot more. I also purchased the IDAS NBZ for Ha and OIII imaging as well. - Cheers Kurt
Thanks Kurt. Yeah the Baader gives nice colors, and is very similar to the Optolong L-Pro. If I was doing much OSC work with moderate light pollution that is what I'd use too.
A great comprehensive review which was easy to understand. I hope you will be reviewing other types of filters, for modded dslr etc.
Thanks Nico.
I appreciate the work you put in. I know that must have been exhausting. I got the l-pro but have not had a chance to play with it. My camera just got modified and I’m waiting to get it back. I’m under bortle 6-7 so I’m eagerly waiting clear skies. Thanks for your efforts.
The L-Pro is great for a modified camera. Clear skies! Nico
@@NebulaPhotos Is it better to custom white balance the camera before or after placing a LP filter?
@@GrowingAnswers After
Excellent review and thoroughly done. I look forward to seeing further tests of more extreme dual band filters in the class of the Optolong L-Enhance, Astronomik UHC or Radian filters which OPT should be able to supply you, if they haven’t already.
And keep in mind that it isn’t necessary to shoot only through a filter. Under darker skies shooting unfiltered and filtered images and blending them later gives you the best of both worlds: the natural star colours and more subtle tones of some nebulas along with the richest and greatest extent of faint red nebulosity. It isn’t either/or. Unless you are shooting under light polluted skies, then a filter and modified camera is essential. And in that case an even more extreme filter than what you tested here would likely be better. Clear skies!
I have the svbony cls filter, one thing ive noticed is it seems to reduce star size a bit, which is always a good thing in astrophotography. but I would only suggest these in heavy light pollution as It seems I've been picking up less faint detail with it in comparison to shooting without it, and I'm in a bortle 4/5.
Yep, we are on the same page there! Clear skies, Nico
@@NebulaPhotos Great in depth video btw. I just started this hobby in may of this year, and your videos have been a big help. thanks for your contribution to astrophotography. Clear skies from here in eastern long island.
Thx Nico! All very helpful info. And congrats on new site.
Excellent review Nico! It works out great for me I only bought the Astronomik cls for my Canon 80D. Going to look into the IR cut filter now. Thanks for the review!
Awesome and reassuring that the filter that I have already ordered (optolong cls) and is hopefully somewhere in the mail was the right choice (bortle 8 in Reykjavík)
Great job. In bortel 9 or 4 on a Astro camera, what would you recommend galaxies?
Great review! I shoot under bortle 8 skies with an unmodified Canon 80D, I use the Astronomik CLS. Really like that filter, so it was nice to see your results with it and all the other. Keep up the good work and clear skies.
I'm pretty much in agreement. Confirmation Bias aside, I had both a full-spectrum T3i and a 294MC-Pro as well as UV/IR, Astronomik, Baader Neo and a few no-name CLS filters. The Baader definitely seemed to produce the best results on both when I was closer to light pollution. Especially with color. I ended up having to part with half of my gear but kept the Baader and UV/IR for use with the 294 because they were my favorites. I'm happy I did. Now if the sky would clear up, that'd be great.
Great job Nico. Clear and objective; more so than most other comparisons I've viewed. I'm using Orion SkyGlow filter but still doesn't darken sufficiently my Bortle 5 skies outside Pittsburgh. Need a more effective CLS filter! Thanks much.
Excellent job as usual. I'm a neighbor from Rhode Island.
Top shelf review - thanks
This was an excellent review and was very helpful. Thank you.
A really amazing video, keep it up man!.
Great video! We need this investigation done with narrowband filters!
Sounds like this might have been a challenging video to put together, but it turned out fantastic! Excellent comparison! Everything I would want to make the best decision.
Great review buddy, Thank you so much :)
Thank you so much for this video. A lot of useful information. I can´t see how to attach to 5D Mk III the baader filter, unles you have a 48 mm lens...because, there is not clip version, or I´m grong? Anyway. Thank you so much.
Man this is a great review. Really breaks it down in detail. Personally I thought the Optolong L-Pro was the best optically. And the SVBONY was close enough to the others that it’s price makes it the best if you’re on a budget.
Thank you so much for the quality demo.
The Svbony CLS is only $35 and my sky is bright at night from the city and money is important so I use that. The others are beyond my budget. So great reviews
Hello Nico! It was great to meet you at NEAF this year. I was going back through your videos as I am filter hunting for the new ZWO Duo. In this video, you briefly discuss your spectrometer setup. I would be curious to see an in-depth video on this as I might be interested in building one of my own.
Good video, Nico👍🏼
Around 13:17, if you compare Baader Neodymium and Astronomik CLS, the stars from Astronomik CLS is larger. I think it may be due to thin cloud which can also cause lower contrast in the image.
This explained a lot from my photo perspective. As just starting out, it helped me prioritize where to focus. (Ha!) Glass, location, filters, mounts, etc.
For the Boston area where you did the test for Bortle 9, would you say the predominant kind of streetlight is old fashioned sodium (yellow) or have they moved mainly to LED?
Mainly moved to white LED
@@NebulaPhotos Arrrgghh, I have just found out that altho my city (Victoria, BC, Canada) has now moved to LED streetlights, they are largely of the warmer 3000K temperature. They use the cooler, 4000K for street crossings and roadways. I live in a residential area, so it would seem that my main influence would be the warmer LED's. In that case, using an UN-modified DSLR (Canon 5D4), would the regular CLS (Astronomik or Svbony) be best?
@@neild108 Any of these ones would work well with a stock Canon 5D4, but I believe that particular camera model doesn't work with clip-in filters. Do you use a telescope? If so, you might have a place to mount a 2" filter which makes it easier. In that case, I'd probably just go for the cheapest one (the Svbony CLS) since it performed very well for the price.
@@neild108 Unfortunately, no. Straight from the Astronomik website: "Please note that the XL-Clip filters will not work with the Canon 5DS, 5DSR, and the 5D Mk IV" www.astronomik.com/en/clip-filter/clip-filter-fur-canon-vollformat.html With just lenses and the 5D Mk IV, I think you will be limited to filters you can put on the front of the lenses, none of which I really recommend unfortunately. So I'd just do many short exposures. Light pollution can also be overcome with just more total time on target. See my recent imaging battle with Cuiv where he got an amazing shot of the Pleiades from Tokyo!
@@NebulaPhotos Hey, thanks for the head's up on the Astronomik XL for 5D4. And for the great tips about total time on target and doing more short exposures. Will try that.
Great video, just I needed. I was not sure if I go for LP or baader. But they are very close
You and Cuiv from Tokyo are best on earth. Thank you so much.
Thanks for a great video, as always!
Thanks Nico, excellent review, filters are a bit of a minefield with variations in quality even in the same model.
I’m just about to send my DSLR out to be for spectrum modified. From what I’m gathering, the benefit of doing this is to get the IR light that is normally cut out on a stock camera.
Wouldn’t a filter like the L2 also do the same as the built-in DSLR IR filter and block out the IR? I thought IR passing through was what I want for nebula.
Thanks and great video!
Hi Christopher,
Stock DSLRs often have a very aggressive IR-Cut filter that actually cuts well in to "the visible spectrum" making red nebulae less bright (e.g. pass the Ha line at 35% transmission). Now what is a bit confusing is what we normally call "the visible spectrum" is 400-700nm, but humans can't really see much past 650nm. Ha is at 656nm and SII is at 672nm. These are the main spectral emission lines we want for nebulae, especially the Ha. They are both deep red. We are typically not interested in picking up the infrared (IR) in amateur astrophotography, and due to the way optics work passing the infrared will actually result in star bloat typically because most lenses can't focus on the infrared and the visible light spectrum at the same time. So the reason to use an "Astronomik L2" or other UV/IR cut filter with a full spectrum camera is to block the IR, but it still passes the Ha and SII (nebula emission lines). If you do go "full spectrum" with your mod, you will want to use a UV/IR cut filter too. Really the only reason to go "full spectrum" over an "ha mod" is if you want to shoot IR photography with an IR pass filter either during the day or for planets with a telescope. More on these topics in my intro to filters video: ua-cam.com/video/ys-28z4qTYw/v-deo.html
Clear skies, Nico
Fantastic explanation! Thank you for the information
Super-useful info! THANKS!
WOW Nico!!!! What a GREAT review...But please next time start to measure the filters glass thickness, why? Because depending on what the filter thickness is that effects back focus, so let's say a 2mm think filter changes your back focus about 30% + or -, and what's very important is if all of your filters are all the same thickness like 1.85mm thick then they should be parfocal, that is the focus is about the same, so once you set your focus it may not need to be changed unless the temps change. 1 reason to purchase the same brand of filter is when you change a filter like LRGB your focus is very much are the same. What you did here is the best I have ever seen and I hope you will continue to do this kind of testing / reviews? I would get the Optolong L-eXtreme & the Optolong L-eNhance 2 of the best filters for the money.
Thanks Christopher! I did plan to measure filter thickness, but I couldn't figure out how to get the mounting off the Baader or Astronomik. Now that I'm thinking more clearly, I can use a measured shim and still use my digital calipers without removing the filter mount. I will do that soon, and add filter thickness to the website. I do plan to continue reviewing astrophotography products including many more filters. The L-eXtreme and L-eNhance are on my list. I won't give any estimate of when such reviews will be done, but I tend to be slow. This review took six months from concept to completion. Clear skies, Nico
Great review. Made me feel better about my astronomik cls. Was thinking about getting the l-pro for broadband, but do you think it would be all that different? From this review i wouldn't think so. I'm using a Ha modified t5i. I can't really ask for a better sky comparison, I'm in medford! Are you in somerville or were just visiting?
Great review! I have a couple of technical comments for you to consider. Since these are all thin film interference filters (thin film stacks of high and low index), their design is probably established with normal incident light. It was unclear if the stand you developed included a collimated light source. If not, you could have a large portion of the light at substantially non-normal angles. In that case, the optical thickness of each layer will be different and each filter design will behave differently (less transmission and wavelength isolation shifted). This could be a key contributor to your "as measured" results varying from the manufacturer's specification. You might want to attempt to collimate the light a bit (could even emulate the focal length of the lens you intend to use) and then see how the filters perform on your spectrometer.
Yes, that is what added substantially to the cost of building the device. I bought my collimated tungsten lamp from Thor Labs. I could try to emulate my focal length by adding more lenses, but I don't think that should be necessary. From what I understand talking to others is that it's pretty normal for these filters to be not completely 'in spec'. The transmission charts they send are not that particular filter measured, but rather an ideal filter. Most filter manufacturers don't state how much variance is acceptable. All that said, I didn't see really anything out of the ordinary in the real world imaging tests which is what really matters more to me.
@@NebulaPhotos If you could draw a "idealized" filter spectrum showing transmission by wavelength, what would it look like? Which specific wavelengths would you want to block? There are a few companies out there making more advanced optical thin film products for fluorescence microscopy, telecom applications, etc. Like the filters you reviewed, these can be bandpass, multi band pass in nature or even designed for specific slope shapes over the entire visible spectrum. They typically have ion beam or magnetron sputtering systems with advanced optical endpoint control to deliver higher transmission >95% and very steep and deep optical isolation OD5 or even OD6 performance. It would be an interesting design challenge to see if a manufacturable design solution could be created for your "ideal" spectral response.
Great vid just what people really like to know about the astro filters.👏👏👍
great review.
do you think the Optolong L-Pro and the Skytech L-Pro Max are very similar ?
someone said that the Optolong L-Pro produces a litte bit more starhalos.
Hi Nils, I haven't tested the Altair Skytech L Pro so I can't say for sure, but my guess is they are literally identical and Optolong is the supplier for Altair, as they are for ZWO. Cheers, Nico
Great review, very nice! Keep it up!
A small feedback for your website: It would be awesome if you could add a slider to compare the before (without) and after (with) picture using the filter, because you already have all the data. Also at the first moment I found it a little bit confusing, that in the description of the pictures there is no note that a filter is used. Especially because in the Video you compared the picture taken with a filter to the picture without.
Thanks for the feedback. I don't know how to do the slider thing, but I can look in to it. I did make this page for directly comparing the filters in the review against no filter: www.astrofilters.com/2020/10/15/light-pollution-filter-shootout/
this was incredibly helpful. almost made me wonder if i ordered the wrong filters haha i have the asi294mc pro coming and i have the l-enhance and l-pro filters. but watching this, there are clearly better filtering options to use. i live in an area with bortle 5 skies, that being said there are areas close by which i have not gone to that are bortle 3. you gave me something to think about for future purchases
Nothing wrong with the L-eNhance and L-Pro. I will be covering multi-bandpass filters like the L-eNhance in my next filter shootout.
@@NebulaPhotos awesome 👌 I will be watching out for that
Great video! Really useful! What type of adapter do you use to attach a 2” filter to a dslr? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again… great content :).
Thanks for that exactly what I was looking for. I'm Bortle 6 using a ASI183MC, so look torn between the Neodymium and the L-Pro... but this has helped a lot. Probably start with the Neo at nearly half the price of the other!
LAB REVIEW! :-) THANK YOU!
This is a great review. I am looking for a filter for EAA so live stacking with typically sub 10s exposures in Bortle 6 using a ZWO camera. I want something to knock down some of of the pollution without losing too much of the object.
I think for an all round choice for galaxies and clusters as well as nebulae I will go for the Neodynium. It seems to produce a more natural image although be less effective as a CLS filter. If I was in Bortle 8/9 I would go for the CLS filters.
I tried the Svbony UHC and it introduces a fairly aggressive purple cast like even on Arcturus. Their CLS filter actually looks a good budget pick though..
Using a 5D Mark IV on Canon EF Lenses. I have looked all over for a clip in filter but it seems that they are only available for the APS-C equipment. Have I missed something?
Wish I found this a bit sooner I just bought and tried a Astronomik CLS CCD filter that so far not super impressed by. Nice thorough review. Cheers
Hey, Nico. Are the images of the North America nebula single subs and how long?
Very scientific, nice job. Although I probably like the filters in the opposite order but that's probably why there are so many opinions on this because it is subjective pretty much especially if you are not an expert in it.
Yep, I'd say in the end, when considering purchasing a LP filter, it really just comes down to: do you like how it affects the image? Which is mostly a subjective assessment
I would have been interested to know how difficult each one is to colour correct. I have a CLS that is very hard to get rid of the blue, particularly on star colour - and I’ve heard the L pro is green…
Hello, very interesting video! Did you had chance to test filter SkyTech L-PRO MAX, which seems is analog of Optolong L-Pro?
Great review! I intend to get the SVBONY for a modified canon 1200D (full spectrum) for bortle 8-9 conditions.
Congratulations for the excellent video as always.
I'm shooting from polluted skies (bortle 7) with very close LED street lighting.
I understand that if I use an optolong l-enhance will help a lot but I will exclude most of the colors of reflection nebulae and galaxies, if instead I still want to photograph these objects what can I use having the nearby LEDs and shooting with a not-modified reflex? Could Idas lps d3 work?
Thank you
Wow, super great job. Thanks very much❤
Hey Nico thanks for all that you do, and btw I had a question. I have an unmodified Z5, And I was taking a look at the different filters, did some DD looking at the ones on astronomik also, and I suppose the CLS might be the best fit for her? Again it’s Unmodified and I’m at a bortle scale 7-8.
This is a great review! I have a stock Canon 5D Mark III and I’ve been trying to find a good filter for it. It’s a great coincidence that you have one too. Also what exposure and ISO did you take the bortle 4 photos at? Thank you!
I have buyed the SVBONY CLS filter with a bit of fear because I am begginer in this hobbie. However the improve in my images was very very nice. A cheap filter but solve with good results. Thanks Nico
Fantastic review! Thank you!
This is an amazing and informative review! I’m a high school student just getting into astrophotography, and am just wondering what are some adequate exposure times for, say, the North America Nebula under Bortle 6 skies with a stock DSLR and no light-pollution filter? I’ve tried something like 80x20s at 70mm, f/2.8 and ISO 800 but I'm, barely able to see the outline of my subject? Thanks Nico, and I love your videos!
More total exposure time is always better! NA Nebula is a tough object with a stock DSLR due to it being a dim, diffuse object that mostly shines in Ha (656nm) where many stock DSLRs are not particularly sensitive. To know if 20s, f/2.8, ISO800 is the right sub-exposure time, use the 1/4 histogram rule: take a test exposure, go to playback and hit the INFO button until you see a histogram, the peak of that histogram should be hitting about 1/4 over from the left. Adjust ISO or shutter speed until it is.
@@NebulaPhotos thank you so much! I’ll be sure to keep that in mind the next time we have a clear night!