Core Stories | Usman Trioko
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- The Desert Point local might be the most barrelled person on the planet.
"That was a pretty core surfing experience, just weeks and weeks of endless swell with no one here" Usman recalls, his eyes going misty at the recollection. "Sometimes after surfing for six hours, we'd just watch empty perfect waves barrel down the reef, too tired to surf."
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