Scenthusiasm Scent School: WHAT MAKES A STRONG SCENT?
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Does strong mean powerful? Do we mean that it fills the room? Or that it lasts a long time? (Or if it punches you in the nose?) Can you make a fragrance smell stronger just by adding more concentrate? We dilute a fragrance to see how it changes at different concentrations.
Thank you both for another great video. As a hobbyist with a background in music I am finding so many parallels. When mixing tracks you are trying to find all the instruments occupying their own space and not trampling over each other. Knowing your materials is key. Top notes are relatively safe you know when a tambourine is too loud. Bass end is a nice blend of bass drum and bass guitar. The middle is the danger area. Quite often I just put too many ingredients in and it all becomes confusing. What I love about learning perfumery is that it’s not easy and the permutations are infinite. Thank you again for your instructive videos.
Thank you Greg. I like that: "The middle is the danger area." You're not wrong.
Extremely interesting topic. And yet another example of how important it is to know very well and study raw materials, I am very surprised about the use of rhubarb to increase the fragrance projection. Many thanks Sarah and Arthur !
It's not a natural Rhubarb though, it's a molecule, Rhubafuran.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 Very kind Sarah, thank you and have a nice day.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 Rhubafuran... Thanks
But how can I make my perfume being smelled from down the street now??
I'm just kidding. :D
Thank you both for uploading the video right in time before I have to go to bed :o)
I have to say, while it doesn't make a perfume necessarily better if it's more concentrated, it sometimes does so if you dilute it further. Especially when having high impact materials in them, even if carefully blended to not overdoing them, you can end up with too much in a given blend, depending on the other materials. Giving some extra ethanol to something that smells strange or unsatisfying can 'fix' the problem more than to try and blend more of the other materials in. Of course that's not always the case, but it doesn't hurt (too much) to give it a try.
The truth!
@@SarahMcCartney4160 I'd like to ask for your advise on a topic I'm struggling with for some years now. The topic of (long lasting and intense) smoke. The problem I have is, most booster materials are rather smoothing the smoky edges out instead of amplifying them. Birch tar or cade eo are good for smoke in top and heart note, but faint in the base. Hydrocarboresine is lasting, but in the huge amounts necessary to make a true 'smoke bomb' the unpleasant top notes are unmaskable, plus there's quite a batch variation.
I got Fumencens HTC, a high temperature dry distilled olibanum oil by Payan Bertrand which is lovely - on it's own at 10% but used in blends the smokiness again is easily subdued. And to my surprise it did not blend too well with Hydrocarboresine.
Plus it's not pure and the manufacturer does not specify the actual concentration (so it's basically a base made of the olibanum HTC and TEC as solvent), it's also not easy to restock.
I'm getting a pyrogenic olibanum oil from Grasse, which is pure but as I do not have it yet I can't tell how smoky this one will be.
I had a sample of a myrrh HT absolute by Robertet which was amazing, but non of the suppliers for hobbyist I've talked to could stock it (either because they couldn't buy it or because the price was too high for a rather 'niche' product).
I have various other materials with a certain smokyness, dammar eo, weeping cypress/Chinese cedar eo, Wood 49 (Robertet), blue cypress eo, a growing collection of vetivers (including Java and Java MD), Firmenich's Oud Maleki, which beside the leather and barn to me features quite a bit smoke, cypriol/nagarmotha, even actual fossilised amber oil (dry vacuum distillation which to me smells a bit like someone smoking a cigarette at a gas station)... But I'm unable to impart a real smoke note in the late stages of a perfume (without completely overpowering top and early heart note).
Some years ago I tried to make cade and birch last longer by blending them with gurjum balsam, which kind of helped but of course did not worked wonders regarding longevity. Still, I'm using these 'bases' instead of birch and cade alone.
Methyl cedryl keton, Norlimbanol and Hydroxyambran seem to work as woody amber molecules in such smoky blends, but only to a certain extend. Plus, I can't use much of the Norlimbanol and Hydroxyambran without getting a rather chemical or unpleasant smelling result.
Iso E Super/Sylvamber don't work at all, the result seems to lose all edges.
Musk R1 might be wonderful for incense accords in general, but again, strong smokiness won't be amplified but smoothed and transformed.
Ambroxan even in smallest amounts seem to take over instead of boost what's there. Amber Max and the other amber monstrosities I cannot stand, they smell extremely chemical and turn blends to 70/80's hairspray to my nose. Probably the reason why I dislike Timbersilk and haven't used it since a got it, too.
Smelling my beloved Incense by Norma Kamali and how extraordinarily long the smoke lingers, a smoke which does not come from the Hydrocarboresine alone, tells me, there must be ways. Also, the wood smoke in Bois d'Ascèse by Naomi Goodsir lasts surprisingly long (but some woody amber molecules in the background make me unsure if I want to get a full bottle of it).
Do you have any ideas? How is it possible to extend and to boost smoke without cutting its edges?
(and sorry for the novel, sometimes I just can't put it in short)
I'd like to underline my cry for help by singing S.O.S d'un terrien en détresse - but I can't sing and if I'd try instead of help I might get some rotten tomatoes 🥲
@@pami333 It's not the first time I've been asked, and I think there's a reason why there aren't any true smoky fragrances on the market. Everything that smells smoky seems to be carcinogenic so it's restricted or banned. Sorry.
welcome back Sara another geart video thanks for sharing information ✨
Thank you, Hulk!
That was very interesting and helpful!! Thank you!
We are always glad to hear that it's been useful.
Thanks for sharing 🤗❤️
You're welcome. We had a bit of a Covid-19 delay, but we're doing our best to catch up.
Thank you
You're welcome.
I do believe the technical term Arthur was searching for is miscible
Yes! Thanks.
Shedloads 😂 That celebration fragrance really does sound amazing. Never heard such exclamations from Arthur. 🤭 Interesting point about optimizing the amount of ambrox. Random question - would perfumes project more and have lower longevity in a zero-G environment? Have any experiments been done on olfactory materials in orbital laboratories? Chris Hadfield mentioned in a video that after returning from a space walk, the airlock would sometimes smell of burned steak - speculating that it may in fact be the spacecraft materials leeching into the air from the environmental extremes. Or is it perhaps our receptors that change somehow? Interesting questions...
You need to look up our friend Marina Barcenilla and her PhD on scents in space. She also has a brand, Aromatom - named by Nick & Me - which is based on space smells.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 Amazing! Thank you Sarah!
Thank you, but if I add water does the colour change to white?
Sometimes, not always.
Is it possible to write down the compound you talk about? I just can't spell them correctly :)
I ought to remember to do this as we're talking! I shall have to watch it again and write them down.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 No need to watch it again. But it would be great to have a small recap in the video description 😉
@@PierreAlexLeblanc But I do need to watch it again as I have absolutely no idea what we talked about! They are unscripted, and once we've finished I forget.
Buenas Tardes Profesora queria saber para preparar un Perfume de 100ml., tengo fragancia de 30ml, cuantos % de Alcohol y agua puedo agregar...???
70ml amigo 🫱🏾🫲🏻
@@ThisisFerrariKhan gracias Amigo👏👏
By weight, not volume. 24gm de fragrancia + 56gm de alcohol, sin agua.
Have you tried a spray of Sauvage Elixir, that stuff has the most ridiculous projection. How do you think they achieved it? If I was to wear it I would have to spray it on my feet to make it tolerable.
I'm sorry. I can't go anywhere near it!
@@SarahMcCartney4160 yea it's too 'strong'
@@rebirthofthecool5619 There’s a limit! 😁
I always thought the reason there was water in there is because anhydrous ethanol will pull water out of the air until it reaches somewhere between 95 and 97% ethanol and 3 to 5% water. I mean, you cannot distill it any higher than that before you have to start adding other stuff to stop it from condensing water vapor, right? Is that other stuff okay for perfumes? That solvent you use that you need a license for, what's in there? Is that higher than 95% ethanol?
This is UK law. I'm assuming you're not in the UK, so it's not relevant. I buy my ethanol from Mills in Liverpool. I'd suggest asking them about technical stuff.
I initially started by following alchemy with magical oils then the bookstore I made the olis for said I had a knack for blending.
I have played with cade for a fire oil but in a love attractant I found at 1% concentration it transforms resins and floral like rose, opoponax adds smokiness to jasmine but pulls out creaminess of hediote. You should try cade its not used because of smokiness but low enough it's magic
There's a bit of an issue being carcinogenic though.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 did not know that
@@SarahMcCartney4160 Should we be similarly concerned with the rectified versions? The ones readily available across the typical AC/EO suppliers are stated as "rectified" anyway.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 I did find some rectified cade oil in perfumers world so I'll pick this up and check out scent see if it was altered. It may be just lighter more like 10% scent profile. I doubt it's 1:1 comparison but that's fine because I had to reduce it to 1% to .1% just to use it before finding this out.
@@weicongsng3629 Rectified versions are OK, but still restricted. There's a whole IFRA Standard on cade oil for that reason.