I replaced the factory bridge on my saddle with this arrangement and like it a lot better. The factory one was all amsteel with a spliced eye girth hitch on one side going to a prusik on the other. Length put the carabiner about at my chin at full extension. At around 240 pounds including outdoor clothes and saddle I found the prusik to be more or less immovable after climbing on it without some serious fiddling, but the agile hitch as described was trivial to adjust while hanging on it.
A standard scaffold or poachers knot will get really tight and be difficult to remove. But with those two extra turns, I find that it is quite breakable and even removable should we need to do so.
For a minimal metal equiment setting, there would be 3 Longhorn Agile hitches. 1 on the main line, 1 as bridge and 1 as footloop. The redundant bridge might as well be a Longhorn Agile one, so 3+1. Soft shackles cannot fully replace metal carabiners, but while still acting responsibly and substituting for a few Longhorn shackles, a full rope system is available for desperate times.
@KeepItSwift a Garda Hitch Footloop is much better performing. The two carabiners it is formed with don't clang together and don't contact anything else when run properly
@@jrbtc Yes, yes. I actually need to buy carabiners, I have only 1 right now. 2 for the Garda and 2 for a Lineman’s belt, hopefully in the near future 👍🏼
@@KeepItSwift I have a page dedicated to carabiners... consider what you are building and simply make a list. For example, if you're using a compact Longhorn agile and your setup, I like to leave a carabiner inside of it to ensure it never comes apart. jrbtreeclimbing.com/
@jrbtc I've checked your website in the months back, and yes, I need to refresh on a good amount of stuff before I purchase anything. Lack of details, poor quality or overpricing are always right behind the door. Thank you for making all this information free! 👍🏼
John didn’t you use to run a JRB compact ascender on your bridge? I’m gunna be swapping out my factory tetherd amsteel bridge soon and the JRB ascender looks alot cleaner on a bridge than the longhorn. Wondering what, if any disadvantages to running the JRB vs Longhorn on an adjustable bridge? Btw happy thanksgiving! God bless
@RipWheelen yes, I have used both. I am simply providing options. There are some folks out there who would like to build their entire system with one friction hitch and it is possible. Personally, I believe the jrb Ascender has an advantage here because it's more compact. Also, we can put a clove hitch on one or both of the loops coming out of the bottom of the jrb Ascender so that it really bites on to our Bridge loop. I'll be showing that in a future video. jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/bridge/
Hi John great system! I was wondering could a clove hitch also be used on your left side? Or does the poachers knot cinch better on the 3 coils? Thanks
I don't recommend a clove hitch in that application. It's potentially unstable. What's tied here is basically a poachers with 3 turns around the bridge. I tried a poachers with a Clove (instead of 3 turns) around the bridge loop and wasn't happy with that either. This bites we'll, and if ya want less bite, use 2 turns instead of 3.
@JamesBurnett-jn3qs Not sure, I don't own one. Whenever we modify our saddle, especially a bridge, we need to have high confidence in it. It would be a good question to post in the Facebook group: JRB Tree Climbing.
I’ve learned to tie both the Longhorn Agile Compact and the 523 Ascender. I’ve installed a double adjustable bridge using 9.5 Ghillie rope with 7 mm cord. I rappel with a Carabiner and a Munter hitch on 9.5 mm Rogue with a back up Longhorn Agile friction hitch. I really like the easy one handed tending and the ease of breaking under load. Currently I have the 523 on my adjustable bridges, and the Longhorn Agile on my lineman’s and my rappel rope. You recently answered a similar question, by saying the Longhorn Agile can be used on all three applications, but I’ve seen you tie the 523 Ascender on the same application. My question: which hitch is better for a saddle hunting scenario? This way I only have to master one friction hitch!
Comparing the JRB Ascender Hitch and the Longhorn Agile Hitch, LAH is larger, but it's easier to install and remove, and its overall performance is slightly better. Most of my Facebook group members prefer it. With this video, I have eliminated the JRBAH from my own system. I use only LAH and Blakes Hitch currently. By the way, 6mm Sterling TRC will work great with your 9.5 mm ropes and it will outlast other cords such as Sterling standard 7mm accessorycord.
Perfect The LAH it will be. I have the Tethrd ESS saddle. It has relatively small aluminum bridge rings which make for limited real estate to tie two bridges with the LAH. I think my final bridge set up is going to be a 9.5mm single adjustable with a LAH and a shorter second non adjustable bridge using the 7mm cord tied with the hunters bend. I really like how the carabiner attached at the crossing point of the two cords positions it nicely for a Munter rappel. I’ll upgrade to the 6mm Sterling. It’s very satisfying creating these hitches and using them in a hunting situation. I feel so much better (safer) on a friction hitch than I do relying on a Ropeman-1. Part of that is because I’ve become super confident relying on the basic Prusik that they began selling years ago as tree stands became more popular, and safety harnesses were included with your tree stand purchase. When I think of the home made climbing tree stands we made as young adults, modeled after the Baker Tree Stand. The risk factor was a 10. It’s a wonder I’m still alive today. It’s been a real joy watching your videos, learning to tie and implementing the various hitches and knots. I appreciate you. Thanks a million 🤘🏻.
@mattvogel5712 I can relate to your comment about some of the questionable contraptions we used in the past. Now, it's about time we got ourselves and our fellow hunters tied in and safe. As for your 2nd bridge, consider this: ua-cam.com/video/4xOuwkz1Xos/v-deo.htmlsi=6BHQAoM_rN-JDmqL
I used 8mm resc tech with 6mm trc to replicate, but not climbed on it yet. The 6mm longhorn agile hitch seems to allow the bridge rope to move too easily in both directions. Will it tighten up once i climb on it? Is there a way to tighten the hitch without having to completely retie? I already weaved the blakes hitch tensioner bridge through for second bridge.
Jennifer, I see you just joined the JRB Tree Climbing Facebook group. That's the best place to ask a question because you can include a photo or video clip. It's not possible for me to make much of a guess without seeing what's going on. However, it's recommended that anyone using this bridge design gets familiar with the Longhorn Agile first. It holds well in one direction when configured properly.
I have Sterling 6mm accessory cord I bought from ape canyon last year but haven’t used it for anything yet. Will that work instead of the Sterling TRC? Also, I have some 8mm Oplux I could cut a piece out of to make the bridge. Would that be sufficient? I think a lot of saddle manufacturers use Oplux for their bridge.
I haven't tied that as a bridge specifically, and I am certain it's going to "work" but I don't like how much that cord stretches compared to TRC. The Oplux is fine, but slightly less coarse than Rougaroo or Resc Tech, so it might need one more wrap. Tie and test carefully.
@paulcrave3112 i cant see what you created but most likely, the rope is just sticking out the wrong side. You don't need to retie the LA, just rework the tail end. See the original video for perspective. ua-cam.com/video/GWp-Mu6p80Q/v-deo.htmlsi=sF4pdvZIGKt3bqar
@@jrbtcyeah, it’s kind of obscure in the video, but it matters what side of the bridge tail you go with the longhorn to tie the clove hitch. Works great now.
Such an improvement to my saddle. I ended up getting an extra foot of bridge material but I can cut it off as it wasn’t needed. Can I flame the end of that Rougarou? Will it melt sufficiently? Then I’ll put a bit of shrink wrap on it too.
On your left hand side of bridge... Any advantage over the way you tie this vs a figure 8 on a bite to make a loop which is then secured with a double prusik to left hand side of bridge loop
@kylehargroder8392 I have no objections to that. However, it will be a little less compact. When I execute a transition (see dedicated video), the key to be able to do it without using a linemans belt is having a bridge that gets really short. A fig 8 is going to be at least 4in longer.
@Simon-80 no problem. Everyone I answer a question, I double check my website to make sure I answer it there for the next person. jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/bridge/
Thou shalt count to three loops, no more, no less. Three shall be the number thou shalt count, and the number of the counting shall be three. Four shalt thou not count, neither count thou two, excepting that thou then proceed to three. Five is right out. Let's hope I don't Monty Python my climbing when attempting this. 😂 I shall practice on the ground.
@stephencrutcher5221 ok... so you tied the LA, right?. Now do you know how to tie a Clove hitch? If not you want to familiarize yourself with that first because that's what we're doing in minute 11.
I replaced the factory bridge on my saddle with this arrangement and like it a lot better. The factory one was all amsteel with a spliced eye girth hitch on one side going to a prusik on the other. Length put the carabiner about at my chin at full extension.
At around 240 pounds including outdoor clothes and saddle I found the prusik to be more or less immovable after climbing on it without some serious fiddling, but the agile hitch as described was trivial to adjust while hanging on it.
@@MalkavianC excellent to get this feedback.
Nice system. I know the poachers not as a constrictor knot. Good to see how you assemble everything on site.
A standard scaffold or poachers knot will get really tight and be difficult to remove. But with those two extra turns, I find that it is quite breakable and even removable should we need to do so.
Thanks John 🙂
You are welcome. This was fun. There's many possibilities for a bridge and I compared many combinations before settling on this combination.
Exceptional , may have to convert from web bridges to rope and cord
For a minimal metal equiment setting, there would be 3 Longhorn Agile hitches. 1 on the main line, 1 as bridge and 1 as footloop. The redundant bridge might as well be a Longhorn Agile one, so 3+1. Soft shackles cannot fully replace metal carabiners, but while still acting responsibly and substituting for a few Longhorn shackles, a full rope system is available for desperate times.
@KeepItSwift a Garda Hitch Footloop is much better performing. The two carabiners it is formed with don't clang together and don't contact anything else when run properly
@@jrbtc Yes, yes. I actually need to buy carabiners, I have only 1 right now. 2 for the Garda and 2 for a Lineman’s belt, hopefully in the near future 👍🏼
@@KeepItSwift I have a page dedicated to carabiners... consider what you are building and simply make a list. For example, if you're using a compact Longhorn agile and your setup, I like to leave a carabiner inside of it to ensure it never comes apart.
jrbtreeclimbing.com/
@jrbtc I've checked your website in the months back, and yes, I need to refresh on a good amount of stuff before I purchase anything. Lack of details, poor quality or overpricing are always right behind the door. Thank you for making all this information free! 👍🏼
@@KeepItSwiftthx. I am regularly expanding and updating the website.
John didn’t you use to run a JRB compact ascender on your bridge?
I’m gunna be swapping out my factory tetherd amsteel bridge soon and the JRB ascender looks alot cleaner on a bridge than the longhorn. Wondering what, if any disadvantages to running the JRB vs Longhorn on an adjustable bridge?
Btw happy thanksgiving! God bless
@RipWheelen yes, I have used both. I am simply providing options. There are some folks out there who would like to build their entire system with one friction hitch and it is possible. Personally, I believe the jrb Ascender has an advantage here because it's more compact. Also, we can put a clove hitch on one or both of the loops coming out of the bottom of the jrb Ascender so that it really bites on to our Bridge loop. I'll be showing that in a future video.
jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/bridge/
Hi John great system! I was wondering could a clove hitch also be used on your left side? Or does the poachers knot cinch better on the 3 coils? Thanks
I don't recommend a clove hitch in that application. It's potentially unstable. What's tied here is basically a poachers with 3 turns around the bridge. I tried a poachers with a Clove (instead of 3 turns) around the bridge loop and wasn't happy with that either. This bites we'll, and if ya want less bite, use 2 turns instead of 3.
Thanks again John. I appreciate the input
Can this bridge design be installed on a jx3 hybrid saddle ?
@JamesBurnett-jn3qs Not sure, I don't own one. Whenever we modify our saddle, especially a bridge, we need to have high confidence in it. It would be a good question to post in the Facebook group: JRB Tree Climbing.
I’ve learned to tie both the Longhorn Agile Compact and the 523 Ascender.
I’ve installed a double adjustable bridge using 9.5 Ghillie rope with 7 mm cord.
I rappel with a Carabiner and a Munter hitch on 9.5 mm Rogue with a back up Longhorn Agile friction hitch.
I really like the easy one handed tending and the ease of breaking under load.
Currently I have the 523 on my adjustable bridges, and the Longhorn Agile on my lineman’s and my rappel rope.
You recently answered a similar question, by saying the Longhorn Agile can be used on all three applications, but I’ve seen you tie the 523 Ascender on the same application.
My question: which hitch is better for a saddle hunting scenario? This way I only have to master one friction hitch!
Comparing the JRB Ascender Hitch and the Longhorn Agile Hitch, LAH is larger, but it's easier to install and remove, and its overall performance is slightly better. Most of my Facebook group members prefer it. With this video, I have eliminated the JRBAH from my own system. I use only LAH and Blakes Hitch currently. By the way, 6mm Sterling TRC will work great with your 9.5 mm ropes and it will outlast other cords such as Sterling standard 7mm accessorycord.
Perfect
The LAH it will be.
I have the Tethrd ESS saddle. It has relatively small aluminum bridge rings which make for limited real estate to tie two bridges with the LAH. I think my final bridge set up is going to be a 9.5mm single adjustable with a LAH and a shorter second non adjustable bridge using the 7mm cord tied with the hunters bend. I really like how the carabiner attached at the crossing point of the two cords positions it nicely for a Munter rappel.
I’ll upgrade to the 6mm Sterling.
It’s very satisfying creating these hitches and using them in a hunting situation. I feel so much better (safer) on a friction hitch than I do relying on a Ropeman-1. Part of that is because I’ve become super confident relying on the basic Prusik that they began selling years ago as tree stands became more popular, and safety harnesses were included with your tree stand purchase.
When I think of the home made climbing tree stands we made as young adults, modeled after the Baker Tree Stand. The risk factor was a 10. It’s a wonder I’m still alive today.
It’s been a real joy watching your videos, learning to tie and implementing the various hitches and knots.
I appreciate you.
Thanks a million 🤘🏻.
By the way I’m about an hour south of the Ape Canyon Outfitters in Butler Pa, I think they’re having a grand opening soon!
@mattvogel5712 I can relate to your comment about some of the questionable contraptions we used in the past. Now, it's about time we got ourselves and our fellow hunters tied in and safe. As for your 2nd bridge, consider this:
ua-cam.com/video/4xOuwkz1Xos/v-deo.htmlsi=6BHQAoM_rN-JDmqL
I used 8mm resc tech with 6mm trc to replicate, but not climbed on it yet. The 6mm longhorn agile hitch seems to allow the bridge rope to move too easily in both directions. Will it tighten up once i climb on it? Is there a way to tighten the hitch without having to completely retie? I already weaved the blakes hitch tensioner bridge through for second bridge.
Jennifer, I see you just joined the JRB Tree Climbing Facebook group. That's the best place to ask a question because you can include a photo or video clip. It's not possible for me to make much of a guess without seeing what's going on. However, it's recommended that anyone using this bridge design gets familiar with the Longhorn Agile first. It holds well in one direction when configured properly.
I have Sterling 6mm accessory cord I bought from ape canyon last year but haven’t used it for anything yet. Will that work instead of the Sterling TRC? Also, I have some 8mm Oplux I could cut a piece out of to make the bridge. Would that be sufficient? I think a lot of saddle manufacturers use Oplux for their bridge.
I haven't tied that as a bridge specifically, and I am certain it's going to "work" but I don't like how much that cord stretches compared to TRC. The Oplux is fine, but slightly less coarse than Rougaroo or Resc Tech, so it might need one more wrap. Tie and test carefully.
@@jrbtc Thanks John. I ended up just ordering what you recommended. Their shipping is so dang expensive though!
I must have some something wrong. Mine won’t self tend. Is the tail of the bridge supposed to be on the inside of the assembly when finished?
@paulcrave3112 i cant see what you created but most likely, the rope is just sticking out the wrong side. You don't need to retie the LA, just rework the tail end. See the original video for perspective.
ua-cam.com/video/GWp-Mu6p80Q/v-deo.htmlsi=sF4pdvZIGKt3bqar
@@jrbtc I’m retrying it now and watching closely.
@@jrbtcyeah, it’s kind of obscure in the video, but it matters what side of the bridge tail you go with the longhorn to tie the clove hitch. Works great now.
Such an improvement to my saddle.
I ended up getting an extra foot of bridge material but I can cut it off as it wasn’t needed.
Can I flame the end of that Rougarou? Will it melt sufficiently? Then I’ll put a bit of shrink wrap on it too.
@paulcrave3112 you can flame it but hit it with a rag immediately. Look up the video for JRB End Loop v3. it demonstrates that.
On your left hand side of bridge... Any advantage over the way you tie this vs a figure 8 on a bite to make a loop which is then secured with a double prusik to left hand side of bridge loop
@kylehargroder8392 I have no objections to that. However, it will be a little less compact. When I execute a transition (see dedicated video), the key to be able to do it without using a linemans belt is having a bridge that gets really short. A fig 8 is going to be at least 4in longer.
Gotcha! Thx for the reply
ia the longhorn hitch on the 8mm rope a 6 mm?
Yes, that is stated in the comments in minute 3. Sterling TRC is 6mm.
@@jrbtc thx, my english is not the best.
@Simon-80 no problem. Everyone I answer a question, I double check my website to make sure I answer it there for the next person.
jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/bridge/
@@jrbtc you doing it very well! the most things i understand although iam german. Your Website is very good too. Thanks John
Thou shalt count to three loops, no more, no less. Three shall be the number thou shalt count, and the number of the counting shall be three. Four shalt thou not count, neither count thou two, excepting that thou then proceed to three. Five is right out.
Let's hope I don't Monty Python my climbing when attempting this. 😂 I shall practice on the ground.
@@cetyl2626 whatever it takes to remember our knots!!!
I am stuck at the 11 min mark....
@stephencrutcher5221 ok... so you tied the LA, right?. Now do you know how to tie a Clove hitch? If not you want to familiarize yourself with that first because that's what we're doing in minute 11.
@@jrbtc i finally got, i didnt see you using the loop for the friction part. once i finally caught that the rest went smoothly. thank you