Uh oh! I messed up! VW 1.8t 20v engine build, oil pump/cam install.
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
- Well guys, I screwed up! But because I pay attention to details I was able to catch it before it was way more work to fix.
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He said lemme whip up a manual timing belt tensioner real quick. 😂😂😂
I was already loving it, but that's when I knew that this is my kinda channel...👍🔥👍
Could be hard to whip up years of German engineering real quick. Love videos! Cheers!
looking foward to see how you will do the timing belt tensioner ;)
I usually just take my big pry bar and take trams inspection cover off and put it in the flywheel usually works pretty well for the crank gear
Great video.
I would use assembly lube at 26:10 tho
Late to the party, but wanted to mention that an easy way to install the oil seals is to gently rotate on to the cam. It will slip right on in a few seconds.
Also you "DO NOT" use oil or any lube when installing the front crank seal or rear main. They are made of PTFE and are installed dry.. You spin the seal clockwise as your pushing it over the crank and let it sit for at least 4 hours before adding fluids or starting engine. Just wanted to make sure no one else is installing these wrong because it can definitely cause it to leak or fail prematurely!!
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I know a someone (not me) who bent a couple valves by aligning the timing with those adjustment marks and then tossed the engine in and tried to fire it.
Kinda a shit design if I'm being honest.
I agree.
I always use the TDC mark on the flywheel for timing belt installs etc. 👍
Or did you buy the round methalic part which is behind the camshaft sensor at the end of the camshaft on the inlet side? thank you
rs4 crank bolt is 200nm and 90* turn :D
Are you suppose to bleed the lifters before install? If you did there's probably too much oil in the lifters they so wont let the valves close properly.
Yes you are and they are supposed to bleed down over time to create the right valve lash. The factory recommends at least 30 minutes before starting the engine. These three didn't bleed down even over night, so there must be a slight difference in tolerance on the lifters. So I recommend keeping them together as a unit and not mix match parts.
@@linderpowersystems2219 boomer, mixed mine after the other video 😅 hopefully it will work any way. Because it shouldn't really mather
Hmm
this is knowledge
Do you know if the VVT tensioner is only for an emission issue or is it to improve performance? Excellent your work!
No, VVT has nothing to do with emissions. VVT was put in the later model 1.8T engines along with electronic throttle bodies to increase low end torque and make the powerband better, also the DBW is there for better fuel economy and they're more accurate than conventional cable operated throttle bodies
Volkswagen only used it for cold starts and emission while Audi
used it for performance.
@@OlaZzz man I have a rattle noise from cam tesioner and the brand new have 690€!!! is there any other brand that works properly?
If I was to buy new lifters, would it matter what slots they go into?
No it shouldn’t matter.
@@linderpowersystems2219 Thank you! Btw your videos are great!
What would you recommend as a good rebuild manual for the 1.8t? I will be starting to build my first 1.8t soon and have been trying to find a decent manual for torque specs, clearance and so forth. Really enjoy your videos very informative.
Bently's are good, but really everything is available with a quick search on Google. Beyond OEM specs all clearance information should come with the aftermarket components you are using.
I'm in the same boat. Just picked up a spare 1.8t for my mk4 gti. Just want to do rods bearings and a head refresh. Going with a bullseye turbo shooting for 400 at the wheels. Time will tell.
What did you go with it in the end?
I prime my pumps by spraying white grease in em
did you even oil your crank bolt though? thats a tty bolt
What adjustable cam gear is that?
Duh I just heard you say it lol
I just ordered that gear so I should expect it to be off timing cause of there gear?
It’s a techtonics tuning, but to be honest you should get something else, this one kinda sucks.
@@linderpowersystems2219 I’ve had so many 16v & 8v sprockets and never issues. Must been a bad batch. FYI Love the detail on this engine build. I’m in the process of building one myself and do all my own porting along with a bunch of Honda heads I also port. My IG address is jd_cylinder_heads
Check out some pics of some of my work✌🏻
I wonder whether the crankshaft from BAM fits into the AVC engine. Does someone know that?
What is an AVC engine? Most of the 4cyl crankshafts are interchangeable with slight modifications.
@@linderpowersystems2219 AVC ist engine number like BAM. It comes with 150 HP instead of as BAM with 220 HP. It is sure that everything including the turbo and engine management is different, but I thought that the crankshaft aka the core of the engine must be the same.
@@EduardM. yes they should be
@@linderpowersystems2219 hmm, okay. I think I will try, to swap them, though I do not know what the crankshaft looks like in the BAM engine. I hope it will start and run after that surgery...:)
How much horsepower did you get to end this engine
Did you mention how many Torque that cam pulley s driver
Cam pulley bolt is 48lbft
what brand is the original oil pump my friend?
After doing some research, I believe the OEM pump is made by Pierburg. I could be wrong, but it is a quality German supplier either way.
@@christopherhalonen980 is pierburg or borsehung one off these but I dont known
how tight should the belt be with your tensioner?
Standard half twist in the belt, and check the tension periodically.
@@linderpowersystems2219 cool thanks man that's a great product I never liked how the ie one left a hole open in the timing cover yours is far simpler imo aswell
Did you use assembly lube on the cam and caps?
No just engine oil, I have always just used oil and never had an issue. On the contrary if you used assembly lube with solids in it it could be pretty bad for the cam bearing surfaces, so I just stay away from it.
@@linderpowersystems2219 That's good to know! I always see people using the Redline Assembly Lube and it's good to know I can save the $10+ for a 4oz jar of the stuff and just use fresh full synthetic.
@@adamrogers3221 I'm just using a conventional break in oil, I stay away from synthetics until the rings have seated. Even then I only use a partially synthetic.
@@linderpowersystems2219 Keep teaching me my man....keep teaching. 👍 It may sound a bit weird, but I have spent the last six years learning to work on my 20v 1.8t on a solo mission, nobody to learn from, so people like you and your knowledge / efforts are friggin invaluable to me.
@@adamrogers3221 awesome man, thanks for the kind words!
Do not apart any lift
Febi oil pumps are shit mate
Go oem only is what I do
I think I blew my head or head gasket....
i hope you're not a mechanic keep forgetting and screw up so many times
big big amateur and make video and upload :(
this best way damage crank gear
sonique88 why do you say he damaged the crank gear? I don’t see anything he did wrong...
@@yoyomaster4545 because you are same amateur :)
crank gear damaga you are put any material the crankshaft anf after tighten the screw
this guy never make any engine :D this only assemble the engine not build
sonique88 I still have no clue what you just said... take some speaking classes and come back later. How did he damage the crank gear?