Very, very interesting and informative. Learned a lot. We have a 1978 home that we have insulated up the wazoo in the attic and basement, and that leaves the outside 2x4 walls. They have "some" pink insulation in them, including the garage, but it is sorely underdone. I am seeing Tyvek used a lot on new construction, so this was an education. Thank you!
DO THIS!!! I built a custom home in North Texas. Did all the research and have 2x6" exterior walls, Zip System sheathing, Full brick (air gap), Open cell foam insulation, with a semi-conditioned attic. My walls are R20 and roof is R25. After 18 months, my biggest electrical bill was $155 for a 2300 sq.ft house in Aug, 2023 with high temps of 108-110 outside. The highest elec usage I had was 936kwh. The lowest was 210kwh with a $22.79 elec bill.
I recently finished putting on my roof polyiso 2" insulation. There project was more complicated. I started with roof foil. Then used 1x3 diagonally to get the benefit of the foil for radiated heat. Then I built a frame work around the roof and laid 2" of polyiso insulation on top of that and tapped it. Then I put 2x3's from the roof and made an over hang. Then I screwed down OSB . Then I over laid this with 30 lb. tar paper. On top of that I put a exposed fastener metal roof. It has made a big difference in the comfort of the home. It stays warmer in our California winter and the AC doesn't run non stop during the summer.
I have a problem and a serious question on how to fix it. When we built our house five years ago we did this. We did a house wrap for moisture and a 2 inch foam wrap. We put in a TON more insulation in the ceiling and also came in from underneath and hyper-insulated the floors. Cost us a lot of money for that upgrade. And it worked. Electric bill was nominal. We were perfectly comfortable. Steady and predicable. No temperature issues at all. My my husband and I both developed headaches. The animals and I were puking randomly all the time. if I left the house for a couple of hours I'd feel fantastic. Come home and I'd be sick again a few hours later. Turned out it was the air quality. Our house had such a perfect seal that we had NO fresh air coming in at all. Ever. We put in a pet door at one end of the house and a serious fan at the other to bring in some air. After years of suffering, we all got better. But our energy efficiency went to hell. We now have hot rooms and cold rooms and we're uncomfortable overall. We need to breathe. We need fresh air. I'm disabled and don't get out much at all, so this is my environment. How do we keep that seal, but still get the unpolluted, fresh air that we so desperately need to live and be healthy?
wow, Didn't even think about that and thank you for I should have touched on it. Now we have another video to do..lol Ok what you need is a fresh air recovery system/Heat exchanger. this will solve the issues. you can set it up many ways in my home we have it bring in fresh heated air on one end of the home and sucking out at the other end of the home. Note each room will need a intake. like this one ( amzn.to/3KPkN3D ) or ( amzn.to/3KWb9fQ ) pending several variables will determined the size that fits your needs best. I would have a HVAC rep come in and evaluate my home then pending the model and style then search on line for best reviews
These can tie into your existing HVAC system so you won't need extra vents throughout your house. The devices pull out stale air and inject fresh air, equalizing the temperature between the two so you aren't just loosing all the heat/cold from the air being pumped out.
In Europe, all and/or several windows are open multiple times a day for a minimum of 10 minutes at a time. I think they call it air exchanging. Hot weather or cold weather, they do this several times a day. Keeps air quality high and mold out of the house. Don't know if that will help you.
The reason window types are different for the south is that northern homes want to magnify and trap the solar heat IN the home for passive heating and southern homes want to block the heat and keep it out of the home. Which panel of glass gets the E coating(s) determines if the heat is allowed in and trapped in or allowed out and blocked from entering. Think of it as a one way valve. Heat in or heat out.
I’m in NW Wisconsin and when I resided my house and detached garage we put 1/2" polystyrene that has a R value of 3, that has to help my 2x4 walls built in 1978 and the best thing about adding insulation to the exterior is that is covers the studs too and they ain’t crap for insulating a wall. I’m building another garage soon, I’m not sure if I’ll heat it or not but I suppose I’ll insulate the exterior walls on it too. Up here we often put 2" polystyrene insulation under the cement slab for garages to help prevent deep frost under them and prevent the cement from breaking and heaving, especially if you have clay in the soil. Edit: Menards now sells 1.5" Foamular R-7.5 insulation boards for $38 a sheet but you can get a 11% in-store rebate on it often.
My concern is moisture trapping. How does any moisture that has migrated through the wall cavity or studs exit? I love the break in thermal bridging the sheets on the very outside provide as long as the moisture issue is resolved. Plus you must address the rodent issue along the perimeter. I've used Z flashing to seal the edges from insects and rodents when I put up sheets on the inside of my shop walls and then covered with OSB.
Robert, let me ask you a question first of all where is the home locate? Actually I highly recommend talking with a architect about moisture issues.... I can't give that advise due to legalities. My home cavities are sealed airtight, as for critters getting in along the seal plate/ledger.. ceiling that is critical to stopping critters and can be either taped depending on the wall sheeting or spray foam.... I am gone on vacation and I'll address this issue on an upcoming video over the next two weeks....
@@SteveOOOOO I'm in Kansas. Hot summers and cold winters. Not the extremes further north or south but enough variation to cause lots of problems. I'd hate to seal the inside with visqueen or paint and the outside with styro and then have any moisture trapped in the wall or studs. If no inside sealing then the outside styrofoam sealing should be ok? Right because the cavity can expell the moisture back into the inside during the dry winter months. Dew point is on the Styrofoam so the house wrap would keep it from going inside?
@roberthughes2665 use a fluid applied air, water barrier on the sheathing. It completely seals it up. Use r guard liquid flash top and bottom plates. This will seal the top and bottom to insure that moisture doesn't enter from those locations either. This will completely seal off the exterior sheathing so nothing should be able to get in. Then cover with the rigid foam. Then, install a rain screen to create an air gap behind the siding, so that any water or vapor that gets behind the siding can drain out.
I'm trimming it out around the windows, because they're already installed. If you plan to install windows during this time, you could fir them out to the thickness of your exterior insulation, or, just trim them out like I'm doing. It all depends on if you want your windows flush to the exterior or reseast in. Mine will be in 2 inch so to give it a more dimensional look.
What amount of exterior insulation board is sufficient to stop the thermal bridging of the wood studs? How many inches of insulation for a zone 4 house?
Well air sealing is very important! then I would not go bellow 3/4" ridged foam pending were the home is. I install 2 layers of 3/4" staggered the seams but thats a lot of work and you will need to install fearing strips and etc. I installed new window at the same time witch made that part easier. done correctly you will not have much for utility bills. My home is 2X6 R30 sprayfoam with Tyvak taped then install the ridged foam from the footing to the soffit. taped as well. Blower door testing will be needed if your home is similar to mine. we had to remove the furnace. We now heat 2600sq ft now with Duckless A/C Heat system and 4 baseboards as a backup. Net Zero energy homes are just like any home-except better. They are regular grid-tied homes that are so air-tight, well insulated, and energy efficient that they produce as much renewable energy as they consume over the course of a year, leaving the occupants with a net zero energy bill, and a carbon-free home
just say the zone 4... if its a 2X4 constructed home with existing windows i would pop off all the window trim and add tyvek then 2 layers of 1" ridge it foam (R10) or 2 inches of rockwool has an R-value of R6.0+ then lath the wall with 1X3 to hang siding and window trim.. 2X6 constructed the same as the other post. good question thank you.
@@solarroofing8072 I will say it this way lol Check with your local building officials and if they tell you not needed then don't use it. Here where I live its a requirement & I asked the same question when I had my home plans drawn up. Now I have extra protection against moisture permeation. Well that now answers that doesn't it.
I remodeled 2 rooms years ago , i had no installation in the walls , no sheathing on the outside ( just wood siding ) . I put 1/2 foam behind insulation to try to cut down on the cold blowing into the house . Now i am going to tear off the old wood siding , put up shealthing with house wrap and foamboard on the out side . Should i take out the 1/2 foam in the wall cavities in the rooms i remodle ? I am afraid of moisture trapped in between the osb .
Mike I have to state first you should talk to your local architect as I have done. With my house I have 1/2" rock - Vapor Barrier over R19 insulation with 1/2" OSB on the out side then house wrap and 1.5" foam with firing strips then siding.
As you are getting into tighter sealed houses have you been looking at air exchange systems? We are looking at building a new house in the next year and as we move forward it seems as if doing one efficient thing leads to about 3 additional projects.
Im so sorry for not getting back to you sooner... But Yes a air exchange will be needed most states that is code now. Any one building to day should be shooting for passive 10-15% more in cost but big returns on your money. A passive home today cost 40% more then a regular home. On new construction we should look at spring 2" of closed cell spray foam followed by 6" of batt insulation. Then on the out side install 1" to 2" foam board (thermal brake). then install your windows over the foam. This is best money spent today..
Zip siding? I think your talking the Zip System (wall Sheeting). The zip system is a fantastic system but if not installed correctly you will get "MOLD", because this is a DIY/Product knowledge channel I do not think the average DIYER should be installing that system. You must get it right the first time. no nail/screws in the field only in the wall studs then sealed air tight. We will be doing a complete home build with that system with in the yr. (Net Zero Home). You will need High End Windows as part of this system or its not worth it. If one once to go this route again fantastic! but then you must go all the way with energy efficiency.
If using fering strips and foam board, do you have to extend the eaves? Currently they are only 12 inches without the added foam board and furring strips.
if your plaining on installing siding over the stucco then yes for you would need to install lath/framing all the way around the home. I no its hard work to remove it but in the long run that's the way to go for you end up with a better product and a tighter home with less work.
I am currently planning to replace all my siding and windows on a 1960 built house. I wanted to add exterior insulation to the outside of my sheathing but based on some things I have read I am concerned about creating a scenario of vapor getting trapped, ie., with rigid insulation with taped seams. Is this not a concern and should I use just rigid insulation or both rigid and tyvek below it? Thanks.
I had a architect draw up my install plains witch said to install the house Wrap first then install the 2" of foam board lath it for the siding. doing that system you will want to install new windows and you window jams are going to get extended 2" but I remove heat loss around the windows... "BIG WIN" If your down south I have to recommend you get this install approved by a architect do to the weather difference. No doubt this will be a big energy savings YR around! At least for me it has been fantastic and with LP & Natural Gas going to 50% going to pay for itself real fast! Hope this was helpful SteveOOO
@@letsdiymyhome Respectfully, you missed the point of TennesseeJam's question... if they have an interior vapor barrier in their home then the application of the XPS foam as you're advising will, in fact, create a double barrier vapor, which is not what you want. Moreover, GPS foam superior to XPS... it has more permeability, costs much less, and is significantly more environmentally friendly.
@Tadziu S You are 100% Correct, Thank You for correcting this!! There is not one home the same as I stated recommend you get this install approved by a architect.... Any time one takes on a project like this if you want to get the most out of your money and seal up the house tight then get architect involved...
Very very helpful! I'm glad I saw this. We are looking at steel/standing seem siding or rollex steel and I have been hesitant after hearing it is poorly energy efficient. If we properly insulate using OC or the last do you think the home will be pretty energy efficient? One of our bids mentioned fanfold. Do you have any suggestions for low maintenance siding, curb appeal, with also good resale potential?
Would the Tyvek go on the under the XPS (pink sheet insulation) or over it just before the metal siding? Can the XPS be used adjacent to tyvek and adjacent to vertical corrugated metal panels? Thanks!
I have a gutted house that I am remodeling. I'm putting commerical D tyvek on with 1 1/2" Owens Corning pink foam board over the house wrap. I'm gonna frame on the outside around my windows with pt 2x4's to bump it out to meet the foam board for my egress casement windows. My 2x4 wall cavity on the inside I don't want to use spray foam so would it be safe to use 1" foam board with batted insulation over that or would I be creating some kind of moisture problem? I am going with vinyl siding, should I get the siding with the insulation on the back side of it or not since I have the 1 1/2" foam board. Not sure the cost difference with the insulation vs with out it. My house is a rancher with a addition built on to it 2400 sqft and completely gutted. Thank You for the videos!!!
If you get the 1.5 inch R-7 insulation board from menards, how does the affect your siding being pushed 1.5 inches out from your house? Specifically around your windows? Won't they not be flush anymore?
Rockwool is absolutely fantastic.... The only issue we find with it is mice and critters do dig tunnels through it. So for me I'll use it inside the walls or for noise barrier
You very can but you will need to ether build out the windows/doors or Remove them to extend them out to allow for the depth of the rockwool plus the 1X4 witch is the way I would do it more work better results and that ends all the thermal issues that people don't understand. Good luck Thank you for the comments.
We need to determined the thickness of the existing sheeting then add the thickness of the foam and add a extra 1"-1 1/4". In most cases 3 - 3 1/2" shingle/siding nail will work. Ty Make It A Great Day! Note: Make sure you hit the wall studs with the nail.
I'm in the sweaty south, and the second siding quote I took the guy looked at me like my head was on fire when I asked him about insulating underneath the siding.
That's great!!! Most contractors sale $$$ not product. They do the state minimum and don't care about energy efficiency not realizing done correctly can put money and comfort in ones pocket and is or could be a up sale and more $$$ in there pockets. Hope will be restarting making videos on this topic very soon 2021-22 has been a crazy yr never seen this in the 30ys as a contractor.
I built a house in Augusta and have to say I was amazed at the low quality of the work we saw when checking out jobs/builds in progress. The subs aren't required to be licensed in any way and it shows.
Than you we will be doing a update soon and will include foam spray, as for payback as of now is the same or maybe a extra yr or 2 as fuel price keeps claiming...
Yes on a existing home pending were it is check the insulation in the attic get it up to R-40 minimum down South and R70 Up north, (I don't care what state code says that's a Minimum)This is cheap to do your self and very costly to have done by some one else. I have a R-70 in my attic and R-27 in the walls. My heating and cooling runs me 60.00 mo. and I live in Mpls MN. so yes I no it works before the redo it was 160-200 mo.
Excellent 👍. I liked and subscribed. I'm trying to educate myself as much as I can because I'm planning to build a house in the fall. I will be building in a completely different environment in Florida. From everything that I've read the sealing and airtight watertight is definitely first priority. Second priorities insulation and I'm trying to decide for my climate am I better to spend more on exterior insulation or interior insulation like closed cell foam? I think the nice thing about a lot of these products is they hit the top two priorities at the same time they seal the home and insulate the home at the same time which is perfect. I will be building a modern farmhouse concept with the vertical Hardie board I know that's just for looks but inside I want it to be as modern and economical as possible. So my question is should I focus more on exterior insulation or interior closed cell foam? And what R value would you try to achieve in a hot climate like Florida and should I double it for the ceiling versus the walls? Thank you for any info 👍
Hello I’m currently in this process come to find out my home from the 50’s had blown installation and open holes. What do you think of 1/4 inch Owens corning then tyvek over the top? The holes are being filled and I have my contractor set up to do it this way.
Check with your country/city I would think if you use 1/4" fanfold and tape all seams as at lest 6" lap them house wrap would be pointless.... Fanfold or Insulation sheeting with tape will take the place of house wrap. Make It A Great Day!!!
pending what you use for insulation board will determined the nail size, example 1/2 sheeting 1" poly insulation and with vinyl siding 1/4" play that would then be 3" nail you must hit the wall studs . hope that helps
Im looking to do steel siding on my home. The current siding is the original T1-11 in very poor shape from when the home was built in the 90’s. My plan is to remove all of the T1-11, and was going to replace with sheathing plywood. If I opt to use rigid foam insulation, how would I attach the metal siding? Furring strips over the insulation? Would I then need to use any sheathing?
If everything is install correctly not a issue. All protrusions must be tape and sealed as well as all seams. Then we install furring strips to install the siding witch allows the water to run out the bottom if & when water gets in behind the siding. Make It A Great Day!
Ty, not a R-5 most cases its like 2.5 max here is a good one for you to look at. chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/www.norandex.com/media/2055/polar-wall-plus-2022-coc.pdf
Doesn't that insulation trap moisture? In a cold climate, with warm and moist air inside the house, might this not lead to mold and rot? That's why house wrap allows moisture to escape.
As for someone asking about price .I asked 4-5 places for bulk pricing 20ys about 25 2” blue Dow board I got 425 sheets 4/8 for 23$ a SHEET ! Ask around if they can dump that much an make a profit they will .same went for the 1” board was about .10$ ea for 4/8 Did house an garage with foam
Yes every application is different but if your not furring out the wall then rain screen is a good Idea... Will be talking about this more this fall when we start recording videos again
Thank you for taking the time to educate us, building a 50 by 100 barndo with 12 ft eave height. Asking your opinion on what to install under metal siding. would like to control condensation and heat and cold reflection. also if affordable have it structurally strong. Post frame construction in zone 4 north east TN. I found OX engineered product, need to call company for price. Conditioned attic so roof needs same.
He is incorrect about insulated vinyl siding. It does not actually work for heat loss and it doesn’t air out like normal vinyl siding which defeats the advantage of vinyl which has venting built into its design that you defeated by adding backer insulation to it
Good discussion, but with current prices, the return on investment then goes from 5-8 years to 10 - 16 - and it is probably worse than that. There needs to be an affordable two part spray kit- preferably polyurethane, because it is self extinguishing in case of fire. Consider this, you need your underfloor (4-6 inches), walls whatever adds up to r-20+, and attic (10 inches of blown insulation). The term “passive” probably has no return on investment when you add in an efficient air exchanger. I’m building an ICF home for my wife and I, and if I could roll back time, I would go with SIPs- sheathed with magnesium board. I easily built a 2 bedroom SIPs home for a friend but I was told ICF would be a cut above; but it has been difficult to build and expensive. I really wish I would have gone with SIPs.
I don't know that I agree. I got a thirty year conventional loan, I'm not tapping into its equity, and I'm not flipping it in five or six years..I'll be in it for the rest of the mortgage period, and longer if the river don't rise or I buy the farm. So years to return in the 10-16 range isn't a factor for me.
Why do your foam prices not match what I see at home centers? It's more than double your listed prices and has been for years, is this video decades old?
@@SteveOOOOO Are you sure about that? I looked at foam prices two years ago, they were about the same as today. This isn't an item that went up like wood did or gas.
@@jimbob3030 my friend I'm not going to argue argue with you you're entitled to your two cents but being I'm in the building industry I know what it is and I know where it's gone.... I'm done now ty
@@SteveOOOOO I didn't want an argument from you, and I'm not a pro. I'm just going off what I paid when I insulated my RV with rigid foam a couple years ago and what the prices are now that I'm looking at doing my home. Two years ago the 2" pink foam was too expensive for me to use or look at, like mid 40$ a sheet so I got the cheap white foam and it's still too expensive, still mid 40$ per sheet for the 2" pink foam. All I know is the prices at home depot etc and not bulk or contractor pricing.
I have seen an R-5 Tyvek but I have personally seen where Tyvek will crack and or tear inside the wall... ain't no fix for that... a retro foam maybe... anyway not a bad video...
Thank you, I have storm damage, have 10 bids only couple show replacing the insulation board and or house wrap, bids are aprox same!!! Some included doing some did not. I have a 3100 sq feet on two floors with a finished wo basement all framed in the back. NOT ONE ROOFING CONTRACTOR MENTIONED ANY EXPLANATION OR OFFERED ME TO MAKE ANY DECISIONS ON THE TYPE OF SHINGLES DURABILITY OR THE SIDING DURABLILITY. They just want to give me the cheapest product at the highest price. SHAME ON ALL OF THEM...
Oh ya roof is called hot roof or cold roof no ice at all, except for little heat must escape through transom window above door under porch where looks nice but no r-value .
Well for 2 reasons 1 was cost 2 its not airtight. & 3 dont care about off gas when its used on the exterior wall. Incidentally its a requirement on the exterior foundation of basement walls.... We will be going over wool in a upcoming video Have A great day...
@@letsdiymyhome Why do you need airtight on the exterior of a house? I always put my vapor retarder on the inside walls. EPS and Roxul are less expensive than XPS. You seem to have missed one of the points. When off gassing from XPS is 1500 times as bad as CO2, in one way it defeats the purpose of the insulation other than savings to your pocket book. We also build energy efficient homes to reduce CO2 output whether you are using gas or electricity for heating and AC. If one is insulating for environmental purposes you have defeated the purpose by using XPS. The CO2 reduction will never offset the damage that will be done over the years by the chemical off gassing Graphite polystyrene is less expensive than XPS and can be used under slabs as well as exterior foundation walls
@@morninboy First off its code here now Lets agree to disagree, I have no issues with it and dont care if it is 1500 times as bad as CO2 as you say for 1 you wont sale me on it, I have it on my new home 2" on the exterior now my heating and cooling went from aprox 6-7k yr to 500-600 per yr running Electric so seal that home air tight vent it correctly now how much CO2 am I saving by not running gas hummm Im closing this topic. Just like saying we need to stop using oil that is Ridiculous to think we can stop fossil fuel production for that's like gold that's what the world runs on. Yes we can cut down some but not stop it. I run diesel cars got them up to 70 mpg's hell my 1 ton truck gets 26 vs the 16 mpg's saving fuel puts less CO2 in the air. As a home builder Im big on going green and building passive homes try googling it. Im Done have a great day. Just My 2 Cents
@@letsdiymyhome You should heed Morningboy's observations and critique. We quit using XPS seven years ago. There are better less expensive insulations to use. I am currently living in my first net zero home with EPS under the slab, Roxul warm board exterior foundation insulation (hydraphobic and does not get wet below grade) and dense pack cellulose in the 14" walls You claim you are a green builder but do not care if XPS is 1500 times as bad as CO2 for global warming. That statement reeks of hypocrisy Try googling XPS off gassing. Also look into glass foam. Common in Europe
@@garymccallum4152 no doubt you made some good points here and I will look into them.... You are correct I was wrong by making that comment "I DONT CARE... Truly I do so I apologize for that statement! some times as we get older we get stuck in our ways and its comments like yours that make me think about change so thank you will take this up again soon. I need to get back to fishing things up to get back to the videos
That's what makes this wonderful world we live in everyone is entitled to there option. To bad in my state you don't get to make that choice. humm is all I'm going to say about that. Thank you for your comments!!!!
Relax... tyvec has one purpose only: be a moisture barrier to insure against moisture drive or cladding failure. It wasn't made for anything else What I like to see for an exterior wall is: studs-sheathing-tyvec-xps-drainage mat-brick [siding comes in second, and only if house build demands it]. And yes, cable or telco types are a menace to all your work. Set a box as suggested, or enter using an eave - drilling holes in siding a foot off grade is brain damage and... I've seen it way too often.
Music and sound effects need a better balance with your talking. They are too loud making it hard to tell what you are saying. Not impossible but more difficult than it should be.
13:00 minute mark; creating a perfect termite path. Awesome video.
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@@letsdiymyhomedo you have an email to answer more in depth questions?
Just came to this channel and I must say I haven’t regretted one bit, lots of good info, exactly what I was looking for
You will love Joe Lstiburek's work then.
First time checking this channel and I'm impressed.
You're a great natural salesperson .
Very, very interesting and informative. Learned a lot. We have a 1978 home that we have insulated up the wazoo in the attic and basement, and that leaves the outside 2x4 walls. They have "some" pink insulation in them, including the garage, but it is sorely underdone. I am seeing Tyvek used a lot on new construction, so this was an education. Thank you!
This was really informative and I googled some of the pricing and figured my square footage while I listened along. Excellent data. Nice video.
Thank you for this! I'm a 1st time home owner with an old house that needs a lot of TLC. This was so helpful!
DO THIS!!! I built a custom home in North Texas. Did all the research and have 2x6" exterior walls, Zip System sheathing, Full brick (air gap), Open cell foam insulation, with a semi-conditioned attic. My walls are R20 and roof is R25. After 18 months, my biggest electrical bill was $155 for a 2300 sq.ft house in Aug, 2023 with high temps of 108-110 outside. The highest elec usage I had was 936kwh. The lowest was 210kwh with a $22.79 elec bill.
This man speaks 100% truth! Great video!
Thank You! I try and need to get moving on new videos
Hidden gem channel. Very good content. Keep it up! You will get the views.
Wow, thank you! will try... More to come soon... Work kicked me to 14hr days 7days a week tell med Oct. then will be back
I recently finished putting on my roof polyiso 2" insulation. There project was more complicated. I started with roof foil. Then used 1x3 diagonally to get the benefit of the foil for radiated heat. Then I built a frame work around the roof and laid 2" of polyiso insulation on top of that and tapped it. Then I put 2x3's from the roof and made an over hang. Then I screwed down OSB . Then I over laid this with 30 lb. tar paper. On top of that I put a exposed fastener metal roof. It has made a big difference in the comfort of the home. It stays warmer in our California winter and the AC doesn't run non stop during the summer.
A price breakdown was great.
I have a problem and a serious question on how to fix it. When we built our house five years ago we did this. We did a house wrap for moisture and a 2 inch foam wrap. We put in a TON more insulation in the ceiling and also came in from underneath and hyper-insulated the floors. Cost us a lot of money for that upgrade.
And it worked. Electric bill was nominal. We were perfectly comfortable. Steady and predicable. No temperature issues at all.
My my husband and I both developed headaches. The animals and I were puking randomly all the time. if I left the house for a couple of hours I'd feel fantastic. Come home and I'd be sick again a few hours later.
Turned out it was the air quality. Our house had such a perfect seal that we had NO fresh air coming in at all. Ever.
We put in a pet door at one end of the house and a serious fan at the other to bring in some air. After years of suffering, we all got better.
But our energy efficiency went to hell. We now have hot rooms and cold rooms and we're uncomfortable overall.
We need to breathe. We need fresh air. I'm disabled and don't get out much at all, so this is my environment.
How do we keep that seal, but still get the unpolluted, fresh air that we so desperately need to live and be healthy?
wow, Didn't even think about that and thank you for I should have touched on it. Now we have another video to do..lol Ok what you need is a fresh air recovery system/Heat exchanger. this will solve the issues. you can set it up many ways in my home we have it bring in fresh heated air on one end of the home and sucking out at the other end of the home. Note each room will need a intake. like this one ( amzn.to/3KPkN3D ) or ( amzn.to/3KWb9fQ ) pending several variables will determined the size that fits your needs best. I would have a HVAC rep come in and evaluate my home then pending the model and style then search on line for best reviews
Just fyi, Newer codes require some kind of fresh air system nowadays and a minimum amount of fresh air. (temp & moisture recovery, not just temp).
These can tie into your existing HVAC system so you won't need extra vents throughout your house. The devices pull out stale air and inject fresh air, equalizing the temperature between the two so you aren't just loosing all the heat/cold from the air being pumped out.
In Europe, all and/or several windows are open multiple times a day for a minimum of 10 minutes at a time. I think they call it air exchanging. Hot weather or cold weather, they do this several times a day. Keeps air quality high and mold out of the house. Don't know if that will help you.
Expert advice. Thank you. Im having new home siding in a few weeks due to hail damage. What should I specify to my insurance company, Sir?
The reason window types are different for the south is that northern homes want to magnify and trap the solar heat IN the home for passive heating and southern homes want to block the heat and keep it out of the home. Which panel of glass gets the E coating(s) determines if the heat is allowed in and trapped in or allowed out and blocked from entering. Think of it as a one way valve. Heat in or heat out.
I’m in NW Wisconsin and when I resided my house and detached garage we put 1/2" polystyrene that has a R value of 3, that has to help my 2x4 walls built in 1978 and the best thing about adding insulation to the exterior is that is covers the studs too and they ain’t crap for insulating a wall. I’m building another garage soon, I’m not sure if I’ll heat it or not but I suppose I’ll insulate the exterior walls on it too. Up here we often put 2" polystyrene insulation under the cement slab for garages to help prevent deep frost under them and prevent the cement from breaking and heaving, especially if you have clay in the soil.
Edit: Menards now sells 1.5" Foamular R-7.5 insulation boards for $38 a sheet but you can get a 11% in-store rebate on it often.
My concern is moisture trapping. How does any moisture that has migrated through the wall cavity or studs exit? I love the break in thermal bridging the sheets on the very outside provide as long as the moisture issue is resolved. Plus you must address the rodent issue along the perimeter. I've used Z flashing to seal the edges from insects and rodents when I put up sheets on the inside of my shop walls and then covered with OSB.
Robert, let me ask you a question first of all where is the home locate? Actually I highly recommend talking with a architect about moisture issues.... I can't give that advise due to legalities. My home cavities are sealed airtight, as for critters getting in along the seal plate/ledger.. ceiling that is critical to stopping critters and can be either taped depending on the wall sheeting or spray foam.... I am gone on vacation and I'll address this issue on an upcoming video over the next two weeks....
@@SteveOOOOO I'm in Kansas. Hot summers and cold winters. Not the extremes further north or south but enough variation to cause lots of problems. I'd hate to seal the inside with visqueen or paint and the outside with styro and then have any moisture trapped in the wall or studs. If no inside sealing then the outside styrofoam sealing should be ok? Right because the cavity can expell the moisture back into the inside during the dry winter months. Dew point is on the Styrofoam so the house wrap would keep it from going inside?
@roberthughes2665 use a fluid applied air, water barrier on the sheathing. It completely seals it up. Use r guard liquid flash top and bottom plates. This will seal the top and bottom to insure that moisture doesn't enter from those locations either. This will completely seal off the exterior sheathing so nothing should be able to get in. Then cover with the rigid foam. Then, install a rain screen to create an air gap behind the siding, so that any water or vapor that gets behind the siding can drain out.
For old fieldstone basements where there is not a flat surface to place insulation board over, how do you reccomend over-insulating during a reside?
Loved this content! I follow Matt Risenger Build Show and this is what he says also - did you do the video on windows (and doors)?
Thank you you give me confidence when talk to contractor.
Glad to hear that!
How are you dealing with the thickness around the windows? Are you shimming out the trim or installing new after that thicker insulation is installed
I'm trimming it out around the windows, because they're already installed. If you plan to install windows during this time, you could fir them out to the thickness of your exterior insulation, or, just trim them out like I'm doing. It all depends on if you want your windows flush to the exterior or reseast in. Mine will be in 2 inch so to give it a more dimensional look.
What amount of exterior insulation board is sufficient to stop the thermal bridging of the wood studs? How many inches of insulation for a zone 4 house?
Well air sealing is very important! then I would not go bellow 3/4" ridged foam pending were the home is. I install 2 layers of 3/4" staggered the seams but thats a lot of work and you will need to install fearing strips and etc. I installed new window at the same time witch made that part easier. done correctly you will not have much for utility bills.
My home is 2X6 R30 sprayfoam with Tyvak taped then install the ridged foam from the footing to the soffit. taped as well. Blower door testing will be needed if your home is similar to mine. we had to remove the furnace. We now heat 2600sq ft now with Duckless A/C Heat system and 4 baseboards as a backup.
Net Zero energy homes are just like any home-except better. They are regular grid-tied homes that are so air-tight, well insulated, and energy efficient that they produce as much renewable energy as they consume over the course of a year, leaving the occupants with a net zero energy bill, and a carbon-free home
just say the zone 4... if its a 2X4 constructed home with existing windows i would pop off all the window trim and add tyvek then 2 layers of 1" ridge it foam (R10) or 2 inches of rockwool has an R-value of R6.0+ then lath the wall with 1X3 to hang siding and window trim..
2X6 constructed the same as the other post. good question thank you.
@@letsdiymyhome the foam board is a moisture barrier, so why do you even need the Tyvek? under neath it?
@@solarroofing8072 I will say it this way lol Check with your local building officials and if they tell you not needed then don't use it. Here where I live its a requirement & I asked the same question when I had my home plans drawn up. Now I have extra protection against moisture permeation. Well that now answers that doesn't it.
I remodeled 2 rooms years ago , i had no installation in the walls , no sheathing on the outside ( just wood siding ) . I put 1/2 foam behind insulation to try to cut down on the cold blowing into the house . Now i am going to tear off the old wood siding , put up shealthing with house wrap and foamboard on the out side . Should i take out the 1/2 foam in the wall cavities in the rooms i remodle ? I am afraid of moisture trapped in between the osb .
Mike I have to state first you should talk to your local architect as I have done. With my house I have 1/2" rock - Vapor Barrier over R19 insulation with 1/2" OSB on the out side then house wrap and 1.5" foam with firing strips then siding.
Good presentation. Question, with ply and Ty vac on already, how does the siding guys find the studs to nail to? I’m going to use Hardi.
If you’re using insulated vinyl siding can you get away with just using Tyvec wrap underneath?
As you are getting into tighter sealed houses have you been looking at air exchange systems? We are looking at building a new house in the next year and as we move forward it seems as if doing one efficient thing leads to about 3 additional projects.
Im so sorry for not getting back to you sooner... But Yes a air exchange will be needed most states that is code now. Any one building to day should be shooting for passive 10-15% more in cost but big returns on your money. A passive home today cost 40% more then a regular home. On new construction we should look at spring 2" of closed cell spray foam followed by 6" of batt insulation. Then on the out side install 1" to 2" foam board (thermal brake). then install your windows over the foam. This is best money spent today..
Have you looked at the insulated Zip siding?
Zip siding? I think your talking the Zip System (wall Sheeting). The zip system is a fantastic system but if not installed correctly you will get "MOLD", because this is a DIY/Product knowledge channel I do not think the average DIYER should be installing that system. You must get it right the first time. no nail/screws in the field only in the wall studs then sealed air tight. We will be doing a complete home build with that system with in the yr. (Net Zero Home). You will need High End Windows as part of this system or its not worth it. If one once to go this route again fantastic! but then you must go all the way with energy efficiency.
@@letsdiymyhome Yes, I meant to say Zip sheathing. Great Video thanks for the response!
How do you attach siding over foam board?
Great videos. I think there are cheaper equivalents to the pink product?
Thanks for all of the info! The comparison of actual prices was particularly helpful
If using fering strips and foam board, do you have to extend the eaves? Currently they are only 12 inches without the added foam board and furring strips.
Do you recommend putting tyvek on the plywood first and then the foam board on top?
Tyvec recommends foam board first, then Tyveck.
I have a stucco house. Will outside insulation still work for me?
if your plaining on installing siding over the stucco then yes for you would need to install lath/framing all the way around the home. I no its hard work to remove it but in the long run that's the way to go for you end up with a better product and a tighter home with less work.
I like the no B.S. explanation and information.
Will be working on a up date of this soon with some other options as I start a new build.... thank you!!
I’m in the Midwest . Installing vinyl siding . Do I need a radiant barrier under the siding?
I am currently planning to replace all my siding and windows on a 1960 built house. I wanted to add exterior insulation to the outside of my sheathing but based on some things I have read I am concerned about creating a scenario of vapor getting trapped, ie., with rigid insulation with taped seams. Is this not a concern and should I use just rigid insulation or both rigid and tyvek below it? Thanks.
I had a architect draw up my install plains witch said to install the house Wrap first then install the 2" of foam board lath it for the siding. doing that system you will want to install new windows and you window jams are going to get extended 2" but I remove heat loss around the windows... "BIG WIN" If your down south I have to recommend you get this install approved by a architect do to the weather difference.
No doubt this will be a big energy savings YR around! At least for me it has been fantastic and with LP & Natural Gas going to 50% going to pay for itself real fast!
Hope this was helpful
SteveOOO
@@letsdiymyhome Respectfully, you missed the point of TennesseeJam's question... if they have an interior vapor barrier in their home then the application of the XPS foam as you're advising will, in fact, create a double barrier vapor, which is not what you want. Moreover, GPS foam superior to XPS... it has more permeability, costs much less, and is significantly more environmentally friendly.
@Tadziu S You are 100% Correct, Thank You for correcting this!! There is not one home the same as I stated recommend you get this install approved by a architect.... Any time one takes on a project like this if you want to get the most out of your money and seal up the house tight then get architect involved...
Very interesting thank you.
I did have trouble understanding you at the end the music was to loud.
Glad I found your video
I wish I would have done this 12 years ago when I had new siding put on my home.
Now I'm thinking of other ways I can upgrade my wall insulation.
Yeah tare it down that’s the only way! I put 2 inch xps foam board all around 😊 super warm and cool home
Very very helpful! I'm glad I saw this. We are looking at steel/standing seem siding or rollex steel and I have been hesitant after hearing it is poorly energy efficient. If we properly insulate using OC or the last do you think the home will be pretty energy efficient? One of our bids mentioned fanfold. Do you have any suggestions for low maintenance siding, curb appeal, with also good resale potential?
Thank you!
Your Very Welcome Thank you for joining us
Also why at 26:50 do you have blasting music??
im new to make them videos and yaaa I get it
@@letsdiymyhome no worries! was just difficult to hear what you were saying in that section of music. Good video!
Would the Tyvek go on the under the XPS (pink sheet insulation) or over it just before the metal siding? Can the XPS be used adjacent to tyvek and adjacent to vertical corrugated metal panels? Thanks!
we install it under the XPS, each state has different rules if the XPS is install, taped sealed correctly then the house wrap is pointless.
I have a gutted house that I am remodeling. I'm putting commerical D tyvek on with 1 1/2" Owens Corning pink foam board over the house wrap. I'm gonna frame on the outside around my windows with pt 2x4's to bump it out to meet the foam board for my egress casement windows. My 2x4 wall cavity on the inside I don't want to use spray foam so would it be safe to use 1" foam board with batted insulation over that or would I be creating some kind of moisture problem? I am going with vinyl siding, should I get the siding with the insulation on the back side of it or not since I have the 1 1/2" foam board. Not sure the cost difference with the insulation vs with out it. My house is a rancher with a addition built on to it 2400 sqft and completely gutted. Thank You for the videos!!!
If you get the 1.5 inch R-7 insulation board from menards, how does the affect your siding being pushed 1.5 inches out from your house? Specifically around your windows? Won't they not be flush anymore?
When doing this you will be building out the windows, this is going to be on a upcoming video
@@letsdiymyhome thanks for getting back to me. Can't wait to see it.
Which do you do first
House tyvek/ wrap and then green board
What about Rockwool vs 1 1/2"XPS in R-value?
Rockwool is absolutely fantastic.... The only issue we find with it is mice and critters do dig tunnels through it. So for me I'll use it inside the walls or for noise barrier
I wish I could come up with a way to use batt mineral wool R-15 on my outside walls.
You very can but you will need to ether build out the windows/doors or Remove them to extend them out to allow for the depth of the rockwool plus the 1X4 witch is the way I would do it more work better results and that ends all the thermal issues that people don't understand. Good luck Thank you for the comments.
@@letsdiymyhome I like the foam board! I used it my heated shed.
Is this okay for northeast zone 5b?
how do you attach the foam board to your house properly?
We need to determined the thickness of the existing sheeting then add the thickness of the foam and add a extra 1"-1 1/4". In most cases 3 - 3 1/2" shingle/siding nail will work. Ty Make It A Great Day! Note: Make sure you hit the wall studs with the nail.
@@letsdiymyhome so do u put house wrap on as well as the foam board and do u put it under the foam bord or over it ?
I'm in the sweaty south, and the second siding quote I took the guy looked at me like my head was on fire when I asked him about insulating underneath the siding.
That's great!!! Most contractors sale $$$ not product. They do the state minimum and don't care about energy efficiency not realizing done correctly can put money and comfort in ones pocket and is or could be a up sale and more $$$ in there pockets. Hope will be restarting making videos on this topic very soon 2021-22 has been a crazy yr never seen this in the 30ys as a contractor.
I built a house in Augusta and have to say I was amazed at the low quality of the work we saw when checking out jobs/builds in progress. The subs aren't required to be licensed in any way and it shows.
@@Natedoc808There is a reason why so many beautiful looking homes in Georgia are called McMansions.
Than you we will be doing a update soon and will include foam spray, as for payback as of now is the same or maybe a extra yr or 2 as fuel price keeps claiming...
Awesome I learned a lot you blessed me.
Hopefully I can use these techniques because our heating and cooling expenses are killing us.
Yes on a existing home pending were it is check the insulation in the attic get it up to R-40 minimum down South and R70 Up north, (I don't care what state code says that's a Minimum)This is cheap to do your self and very costly to have done by some one else. I have a R-70 in my attic and R-27 in the walls. My heating and cooling runs me 60.00 mo. and I live in Mpls MN. so yes I no it works before the redo it was 160-200 mo.
what kinda tap sticks to eps unfaced foam?
Excellent 👍. I liked and subscribed. I'm trying to educate myself as much as I can because I'm planning to build a house in the fall. I will be building in a completely different environment in Florida. From everything that I've read the sealing and airtight watertight is definitely first priority. Second priorities insulation and I'm trying to decide for my climate am I better to spend more on exterior insulation or interior insulation like closed cell foam? I think the nice thing about a lot of these products is they hit the top two priorities at the same time they seal the home and insulate the home at the same time which is perfect. I will be building a modern farmhouse concept with the vertical Hardie board I know that's just for looks but inside I want it to be as modern and economical as possible. So my question is should I focus more on exterior insulation or interior closed cell foam? And what R value would you try to achieve in a hot climate like Florida and should I double it for the ceiling versus the walls? Thank you for any info 👍
Hello I’m currently in this process come to find out my home from the 50’s had blown installation and open holes. What do you think of 1/4 inch Owens corning then tyvek over the top? The holes are being filled and I have my contractor set up to do it this way.
Check with your country/city I would think if you use 1/4" fanfold and tape all seams as at lest 6" lap them house wrap would be pointless.... Fanfold or Insulation sheeting with tape will take the place of house wrap. Make It A Great Day!!!
How does siding attached to the green board
pending what you use for insulation board will determined the nail size, example 1/2 sheeting 1" poly insulation and with vinyl siding 1/4" play that would then be 3" nail you must hit the wall studs . hope that helps
Im looking to do steel siding on my home. The current siding is the original T1-11 in very poor shape from when the home was built in the 90’s. My plan is to remove all of the T1-11, and was going to replace with sheathing plywood. If I opt to use rigid foam insulation, how would I attach the metal siding? Furring strips over the insulation? Would I then need to use any sheathing?
Also, any opinion on radiant insulation with furring strips and then metal on top?
Very impressive. Good info on upgrading old homes
What about water ingress? and not just insualtion.
If everything is install correctly not a issue. All protrusions must be tape and sealed as well as all seams. Then we install furring strips to install the siding witch allows the water to run out the bottom if & when water gets in behind the siding.
Make It A Great Day!
love your passion
Thank you, we are learning but do enjoy doing the videos...
Does the insulated vinyl siding give r5?
Ty, not a R-5 most cases its like 2.5 max here is a good one for you to look at. chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/www.norandex.com/media/2055/polar-wall-plus-2022-coc.pdf
Doesn't that insulation trap moisture? In a cold climate, with warm and moist air inside the house, might this not lead to mold and rot? That's why house wrap allows moisture to escape.
Does the foam board cause moisture issues?
No it doesn't when you use fering strips to to attch the siding .... This will allow drainage
Will be doing an update to this later this fall
As for someone asking about price .I asked 4-5 places for bulk pricing 20ys about 25 2” blue Dow board I got 425 sheets 4/8 for 23$ a SHEET ! Ask around if they can dump that much an make a profit they will .same went for the 1” board was about .10$ ea for 4/8 Did house an garage with foam
It’s going to cost you to build out all you window molding to make the j channel look right.
Do you do a rainscreen with your siding?
Yes every application is different but if your not furring out the wall then rain screen is a good Idea... Will be talking about this more this fall when we start recording videos again
what state are you in that requires tyvek?
Minnesota
Very helpful
Thank you for taking the time to educate us, building a 50 by 100 barndo with 12 ft eave height. Asking your opinion on what to install under metal siding. would like to control condensation and heat and cold reflection. also if affordable have it structurally strong. Post frame construction in zone 4 north east TN. I found OX engineered product, need to call company for price. Conditioned attic so roof needs same.
You the man
This guy is the next Matt Risinger. But for us northerners.
He is incorrect about insulated vinyl siding. It does not actually work for heat loss and it doesn’t air out like normal vinyl siding which defeats the advantage of vinyl which has venting built into its design that you defeated by adding backer insulation to it
Good discussion, but with current prices, the return on investment then goes from 5-8 years to 10 - 16 - and it is probably worse than that. There needs to be an affordable two part spray kit- preferably polyurethane, because it is self extinguishing in case of fire. Consider this, you need your underfloor (4-6 inches), walls whatever adds up to r-20+, and attic (10 inches of blown insulation). The term “passive” probably has no return on investment when you add in an efficient air exchanger. I’m building an ICF home for my wife and I, and if I could roll back time, I would go with SIPs- sheathed with magnesium board. I easily built a 2 bedroom SIPs home for a friend but I was told ICF would be a cut above; but it has been difficult to build and expensive. I really wish I would have gone with SIPs.
I don't know that I agree. I got a thirty year conventional loan, I'm not tapping into its equity, and I'm not flipping it in five or six years..I'll be in it for the rest of the mortgage period, and longer if the river don't rise or I buy the farm. So years to return in the 10-16 range isn't a factor for me.
Why do your foam prices not match what I see at home centers? It's more than double your listed prices and has been for years, is this video decades old?
This video is 1 to 1 1/2 yrs old and yes pricing has gone through the ceiling im waiting for all this craziness to settle down before finish my home
@@SteveOOOOO Are you sure about that?
I looked at foam prices two years ago, they were about the same as today. This isn't an item that went up like wood did or gas.
@@jimbob3030 my friend I'm not going to argue argue with you you're entitled to your two cents but being I'm in the building industry I know what it is and I know where it's gone.... I'm done now ty
@@SteveOOOOO I didn't want an argument from you, and I'm not a pro.
I'm just going off what I paid when I insulated my RV with rigid foam a couple years ago and what the prices are now that I'm looking at doing my home.
Two years ago the 2" pink foam was too expensive for me to use or look at, like mid 40$ a sheet so I got the cheap white foam and it's still too expensive, still mid 40$ per sheet for the 2" pink foam.
All I know is the prices at home depot etc and not bulk or contractor pricing.
I have seen an R-5 Tyvek but I have personally seen where Tyvek will crack and or tear inside the wall... ain't no fix for that... a retro foam maybe... anyway not a bad video...
Thank you, I have storm damage, have 10 bids only couple show replacing the insulation board and or house wrap, bids are aprox same!!! Some included doing some did not. I have a 3100 sq feet on two floors with a finished wo basement all framed in the back. NOT ONE ROOFING CONTRACTOR MENTIONED ANY EXPLANATION OR OFFERED ME TO MAKE ANY DECISIONS ON THE TYPE OF SHINGLES DURABILITY OR THE SIDING DURABLILITY. They just want to give me the cheapest product at the highest price. SHAME ON ALL OF THEM...
Oh ya roof is called hot roof or cold roof no ice at all, except for little heat must escape through transom window above door under porch where looks nice but no r-value .
XPS off gassing is 1500 times as bad as CO2. Use EPS or mineral wool for exterior insulation. Why were they not included in the value comparison?
Well for 2 reasons 1 was cost 2 its not airtight. & 3 dont care about off gas when its used on the exterior wall. Incidentally its a requirement on the exterior foundation of basement walls.... We will be going over wool in a upcoming video Have A great day...
@@letsdiymyhome Why do you need airtight on the exterior of a house? I always put my vapor retarder on the inside walls.
EPS and Roxul are less expensive than XPS.
You seem to have missed one of the points. When off gassing from XPS is 1500 times as bad as CO2, in one way it defeats the purpose of the insulation other than savings to your pocket book. We also build energy efficient homes to reduce CO2 output whether you are using gas or electricity for heating and AC. If one is insulating for environmental purposes you have defeated the purpose by using XPS. The CO2 reduction will never offset the damage that will be done over the years by the chemical off gassing
Graphite polystyrene is less expensive than XPS and can be used under slabs as well as exterior foundation walls
@@morninboy First off its code here now Lets agree to disagree, I have no issues with it and dont care if it is 1500 times as bad as CO2 as you say for 1 you wont sale me on it, I have it on my new home 2" on the exterior now my heating and cooling went from aprox 6-7k yr to 500-600 per yr running Electric so seal that home air tight vent it correctly now how much CO2 am I saving by not running gas hummm Im closing this topic. Just like saying we need to stop using oil that is Ridiculous to think we can stop fossil fuel production for that's like gold that's what the world runs on. Yes we can cut down some but not stop it. I run diesel cars got them up to 70 mpg's hell my 1 ton truck gets 26 vs the 16 mpg's saving fuel puts less CO2 in the air. As a home builder Im big on going green and building passive homes try googling it. Im Done have a great day. Just My 2 Cents
@@letsdiymyhome You should heed Morningboy's observations and critique.
We quit using XPS seven years ago. There are better less expensive insulations to use.
I am currently living in my first net zero home with EPS under the slab, Roxul warm board exterior foundation insulation (hydraphobic and does not get wet below grade) and dense pack cellulose in the 14" walls
You claim you are a green builder but do not care if XPS is 1500 times as bad as CO2 for global warming. That statement reeks of hypocrisy
Try googling XPS off gassing.
Also look into glass foam. Common in Europe
@@garymccallum4152 no doubt you made some good points here and I will look into them.... You are correct I was wrong by making that comment "I DONT CARE... Truly I do so I apologize for that statement! some times as we get older we get stuck in our ways and its comments like yours that make me think about change so thank you will take this up again soon. I need to get back to fishing things up to get back to the videos
Good
CANNOT HEAR WHEN THE MUSIC IS LOUD AT THE END!
Im sorry trying to get better at the videos thank you!
Where would you buy the 1 1/2" foam board in bulk? The only place I saw it was at Home Depot and it was $42 a 4x8 sheet
Writing this all down. I agree more money should be in the insulation and that is where my money will go with this new construction
By the way I would not use Tyvek for anything. If I was going to use a material as a water barrier I would use 30 lb. tar paper.
That's what makes this wonderful world we live in everyone is entitled to there option. To bad in my state you don't get to make that choice. humm is all I'm going to say about that. Thank you for your comments!!!!
I got Typar for my house, Tyvek is made way cheaper than it used to be and costs over twice as much as it did before.
Music was too loud, distracting. :(
Relax... tyvec has one purpose only: be a moisture barrier to insure against moisture drive or cladding failure. It wasn't made for anything else What I like to see for an exterior wall is: studs-sheathing-tyvec-xps-drainage mat-brick [siding comes in second, and only if house build demands it].
And yes, cable or telco types are a menace to all your work. Set a box as suggested, or enter using an eave - drilling holes in siding a foot off grade is brain damage and... I've seen it way too often.
Music and sound effects need a better balance with your talking. They are too loud making it hard to tell what you are saying. Not impossible but more difficult than it should be.
Garcia Mark Jackson Brenda Gonzalez Kenneth
dont no what's up with the names but ok ty
Lopez Nancy Wilson Patricia Jones Cynthia
im sorry
Hall Elizabeth Anderson Amy Harris Jeffrey
You talk too much, get to the advertisement.